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  1. #801
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    I stripped out my non drive side crank arm by cross threading the pedal (yes, i'm an idiot) - and am having the hardest time figuring out how to get a replacement crank arm - anyone think this will fit - 2015 Samox pf30 Fatbike crankset For Sale
    or leads on whee to get a replacement?

  2. #802
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    Thanks for posting this. Good to know. also, what did you mean about Bud & Lou - would you imagine it being even better with those tires? Thats what I'm guessing you meant.
    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Got my first snow ride today. Cut 11 miles of singletrack through 2-6" of snow. It's definitely harder than I thought. Bike is also a lot more capable than I imagined. The few super steep areas I thought I'd have to hike were no issue. Couldn't imagine it with a bud/lou combo. Definitely hooked on the snow riding. Also think I'm going to go carbon fork.




  3. #803
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    Wanna buy my cranks? Stock Lurch cranks, complete with BB and chain rings, used maybe ten days.

    Send me a PM if interested.

    I stripped out my non drive side crank arm by cross threading the pedal (yes, i'm an idiot) - and am having the hardest time figuring out how to get a replacement crank arm - anyone think this will fit - 2015 Samox pf30 Fatbike crankset For Sale
    or leads on whee to get a replacement?

  4. #804
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    Yep. Bud and lou tires. Supposedly the bees knees, but these snowshoes are pretty good. Also liking the muckynutz front fender

  5. #805
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    Welp, our grey size small Lurch got stolen from our house in Boulder, Co this past week. If anybody sees one for sale PM or call/text me. nine oh one three 59 one eight two 7.

    It was the early lurch with the straight downtube (pretty distinctive).

    Had some other identifying features as well.

    -Marco

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
    Welp, our grey size small Lurch got stolen from our house in Boulder, Co this past week.

    -Marco
    That sucks!

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
    Welp, our grey size small Lurch got stolen from our house in Boulder, Co this past week. If anybody sees one for sale PM or call/text me. nine oh one three 59 one eight two 7.

    It was the early lurch with the straight downtube (pretty distinctive).

    Had some other identifying features as well.

    -Marco
    You should post this as its own thread -with pics. I'm sure the community will rally.

  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    BDop Cycling Co

    I came across this yesterday - the only hint of any place that has Novatec small parts for sale. They do not have specific Sb201-202 parts listed, but do mention that they work OEM, so might have a direct line to Novatec. The do have freehub bodies and bearings, so if they're legit, and I'll find out soon, I'm going to place an order for some backup parts. I also saw that they have a free hub body with a steel spline to prevent gouging. Not having a source for the small parts is really my only complaint about Nocvatec - my hubs are still buttery smooth.
    BDop's reply to my question regarding end caps for the Lurch front hub:

    "Thanks for the email. I'm sorry but we don't have stock or access to any fat bike product at the moment.

    Try contacting HENRY at Novatec USA."
    baker

  9. #809
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    Finally got a nice long ride in the snow on my Lurch. That thing is a beast. It was everything I was hoping for in a fat bike for snow use. Did about 15 miles in 3-4 inches of snow. Had a few slips with the front tire (on the corners) until I dropped the psi a few pounds. I don't have a gauge, so I don't know what it was. But it was pretty squishy. After that, it did very well.

    Tires are not as good as Nates or Husker Du's in the snow, but they are still very good. I didn't have any crazy slipping like I've seen some people claim. Good traction even going uphill in the snow.

    Very happy with my Lurch. Even happier with the price.
    Nathan

  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    BDop's reply to my question regarding end caps for the Lurch front hub:

    "Thanks for the email. I'm sorry but we don't have stock or access to any fat bike product at the moment.

    Try contacting HENRY at Novatec USA."
    At least you got a response...thanks for the feedback. The next step is bikefettish.com, https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bikef...75171749183552, a California shop, nothing up and running on line, but their facebook page is updated regularly, and they seem to be really into Novatec hubs and wheels, so I'm going to try and order a freehub through them. Again, updates as (if) I have them. I've been nervous about the novatec free hub, so have been checking it regularly, and there are no issues whatsoever. The initial gouging from the cassette rings seems to have been the last of the minor damage and hasn't progressed, bearings are still smooth, and the 4 pawls and ratchet ring are in great shape. If I can readily get replacement bearings and parts, then I'm sold on these.

  11. #811
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    Some fatbike wheelsets on sale:

    Save Up to 60% Off FatBike, MTB, Road, Lifestyle Bicycle Bike Wheels for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes

    I picked up the Fatbike 29er wheelset. Thru axles 150/190 with WTB Bronson tires. Novatec hubs. So, I'm hoping the endcaps will be interchangeable with my stock Lurch wheelset. That'll give me the opportunity to run fat and skinny wheelsets, as well as give me the 15mm endcaps for running a Bluto and/or carbon fork.
    Last edited by baker; 11-27-2014 at 09:58 PM.
    baker

  12. #812
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    Excited !! Ordered a large orange Lurch and the wait till mid Jan is going to be painful to say the least...

    Question for those who can answer, What size rim tape will work with the stock rims?

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyThirty View Post
    Excited !! Ordered a large orange Lurch and the wait till mid Jan is going to be painful to say the least...

    Question for those who can answer, What size rim tape will work with the stock rims?
    Congrats,

    The stock rim tape is 2 1/2 inches wide.Any wider and it will go underneath the tire beads. The holes are 1 1/4 inches in diameter, so it needs to be wider than that.

    Several have used duct tape successfully, particularly the kind with the designs on it.

  14. #814
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    Would a 1x10 wolf tooth conversion be pretty straight forward on the lurch?

  15. #815
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    I wouldn't go 1x10 if you're planning on riding on snow or anything fairly hilly. I thought the bike was severly under geared until snow riding and steep loose climbs. This is where the bike really shines. You'll loose more weight changing the tubes than switching to 1x10 anyways.

  16. #816
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    good idea, what's the best forum to post in?

  17. #817
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    snow!

    The Lurch Lounge-kimg0693.jpg

  18. #818
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    +1 on Mike's comments, the low gearing on a fatty is important for anything with a grade. If you only ride flattish/rolling terrain, then go for it.

    I have 1 x 10 on my Honzo and 1 x 11 on my FS. they work, they are simpler, but the weight savings is negligible.

    The only significant advantage of a 1x is if you find yourself switching chain rings often AND you don't use your extremes (high and low).

    There are times when I consider ditching the X01 stuff because even a 30 x 42 is tall in certain situations, but it sure does shift nice

  19. #819
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    These wheels/tires arrived today. I think they'll give me some good options. I can now run my Lurch as a 29er. I can use the 15mm end caps to run a Bluto or a carbon fork. The end caps fit the stock Lurch wheelset. The wheels also came with the rear 9mm q/r axle kit (including the q/r).

    Weights
    Front wheel/tire with 15mm endcaps (minus reflector): 2115g
    Rear wheel/tire with thru axle (minus reflector): 2351g

    Guestimating...the bike will be about 5 pounds lighter in 29er configuration.

    I also ordered some Innova Gravity Vidar 29x3.0 tires that I'll try out with these wheels just for the heck of it. The rims are about 5mm narrower than recommended for a 3.0" tire, but we'll see how they work.

    Amazon.com : Innova 29 x 3.0 Fat Bike Tire With Tube! Gravity Vidar Black 29 Inch Package : Sports & Outdoors
    baker

  20. #820
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    Did some mods to my lurch last night.

    Switched the samox crank for a SRAM X5 2X10. The big ring juuust barely clears the chainstay, but it works. Q factor is way smaller than stock as the X5 is designed for 170MM frames. It shifts fine. I also had to swap the front derailleur hanger for one designed for 100MM BB. Problem solvers part #FS1327 is what I used for that.

    I also went ghetto tubeless...wow it was easier than I thought. I used a 24" tube and 4-6oz of sealant. I also used a layer of sill foam under the tube. Mod is cheap and well worth it.
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  21. #821
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    Pics...or it didn't happen. And, if you get around to pics, can you show how much the chain clears the tire when in granny? Much appreciated.

  22. #822
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    Here ya go...

    Maybe just under 10mm clearance in low gear.
    The Lurch Lounge-20141204_203717.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-20141204_203248.jpg
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  23. #823
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    Thanks man.

  24. #824
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    Is that the X5 clearance with the stock Snowshoes?

    I haven't checked my FSA Comets with the Snowshoes; I ride 4" Floaters, but I have plenty of chainring clearance and my chainline is good.

  25. #825
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    Yeah its the stock snowshoe tire slammed all the way forward. Chainline is good enough and shifts great.
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  26. #826
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    In regards to 150mm hub adaptors:

    On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 2:13 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:

    Hi Ben,

    They were out of stock n the 15mm adaptors in Taiwan the expected delivery date Jan 30 2015

    Thanks
    Henry

  27. #827
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    Bluto update:

    Still lovin my Bluto, rode a bunch of single track yesterday, big climbing on steep mix of old snow, fresh snow, and ice. Temps in the twenties with no appreciable loss of function; I set the fork pressure when cold, 120psi, I weight 190#, sag was ~25%.

    I do think that I'll increase to 100mm of travel, I can use up the 80mm pretty fast when riding through rollers on a downhill.

    Climbing is great with the Floaters, I was able to have good up and down performance running 10psi, no need to drop pressure as I still had enough footprint to to stick on the icey spots. If the surface was less firm, deeper unconsolidated snow, I probably would have dropped pressure. I did slide the wheel back ~10mm to reduce wheel lift and this has made the Lurch behave better withut reducing playfulness.

    I am riding a medium frame, which is smallish for my 32" inseam, however the Lurch has a fairly long top tube, so even running a 60mm stem I still feel very comfortable sitting and when climbing or doing tech stuff I can really throw the bike around without feeling like the bike is "riding me". Running a slacker front end with the Bluto and Cane Creek Angleset is probably adding to that long feeling front end

  28. #828
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Got out for my first real snow ride yesterday! 1,750' of climbing in 5 miles then back down! (Glad I left it 2x10...) I started at 7psi and ended at 4psi rear and 2.5 in the front. At the beginning I was trenching in really bad and was constantly spinning out. After I dropped the pressures it was AMAZING! So much fun, I was squealing like a kid! Fairly stock Lurch + 780mm bars, a cheap Tmars dropper and ghetto tubeless.

    Here are a couple pics from the ride:
    The Lurch Lounge-imageuploadedbytapatalk1418103058.862571.jpg
    The Lurch Lounge-imageuploadedbytapatalk1418103075.176439.jpg
    The Lurch Lounge-imageuploadedbytapatalk1418103105.440957.jpg

  29. #829
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    Did anyone use Frame Saver on their Lurch frame for protection?
    Ed

  30. #830
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    After I dropped the pressures it was AMAZING! So much fun, I was squealing like a kid! Fairly stock Lurch + 780mm bars, a cheap Tmars dropper and ghetto tubeless.

    What ghetto tubeless method did you use to allow those low pressures without burping? Using the stock wheels and tires I assume?
    Thanks
    Ed

    Great looking Lurch BTW!

  31. #831
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Did anyone use Frame Saver on their Lurch frame for protection?
    Ed
    I did. I use a different brand but its the same thing.

    https://progoldmfr.com/store/index.p...&product_id=71
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  32. #832
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    My new dry season wheels are in progress:

    Origin 8 Fat Bike Hubs (150/190), steel freehub body!
    Velocity 650b Duallys Velocity "Dually" 26" Wheel Set: Final Review
    Vee Rubber Trax Fatty Vee Tire Trax Fatty 27.5" X 3.25" Tires: Quick Review

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    What ghetto tubeless method did you use to allow those low pressures without burping? Using the stock wheels and tires I assume?
    Thanks
    Ed

    Great looking Lurch BTW!
    Thanks for the Kudo's! I was going for Colorado flag colors, red, blue, white, and yellow... The yellow rim tape is actually reflective which is fun at night.

    To go tubeless I used QBP 24x2.4-2.75" tubes, split open. I didn't use sill foam under them but if I have to take them apart I'll probably do that just for ease of seating the bead. It wasn't too bad to get air in them without the foam but I did have to fiddle with it a bit and remove the valve cores. As far as reliability goes they've been bombproof. I've done some ridiculously rocky and bumpy downhills without issue as well as pushing it pretty good in dirt corners. On my trip in the snow last Sunday I was hitting speeds over 35mph, and at one point while in the mid 20's I got into (bounced across) some 1ft deep car tire ruts without destroying anything, and that was all at the low tire pressures. Although the tires faired well my seat got turned 90º and my left sit bone is bruised from landing on the top tube because the bouncing was so violent!

    Yep, stock wheels and tires. Rear tire is showing threads on the sidewalls from all the flexing but tread is still looking good.

  34. #834
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    Thanks for the reply. My Lurch wil lbe here in Jan. and have heard mixed reviews on converting the stock wheels to tubeless. I definatly will give it a try.
    Ed

  35. #835
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    Has anyone changed the front ring to 32t with the stock front derailleur? Just wondering if you have room due to the water bottle cage / FD clamp. I have a 30t NW race face ring and a 32t ring in my parts bin. Wondering if I should go 1x10 or keep it 2x10 with a 32t

    Will be on a lurch with bluto when its ready to ship next month.

  36. #836
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    Does anyone else have a really hard time getting there wheels on and off? It seems like my front fork has some alignment issues.
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  37. #837
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    I thought the reason to go tubeless was to make the bike lighter. Are there any other reasons to go tubeless? Does it allow for better traction in snow? Also, why use a QBP split tube in going tubeless? I would think the weight of the split tube would defeat the purpose of going tubeless in the first place. Please forgive my ignorance as I'm a newbie.

  38. #838
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    You save weight over the heavy tubes that come in fat bikes, pull a tube out and compare it to a 24" tube you use for split tube - there's a huge difference in weight, and with split tube you're not using even all of that 24" tube after you trim it back.

    That said, I would do split tube even if it didn't save me weight as I've had zero deflation issues since going tubeless in February of last year. Prior to that I three or four pinch flats with tubes in there (both the heavy ones and the Qtube light ones). We don't have thorns around here, so I don't have to worry about that.

  39. #839
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    What is the benefit of going tubeless with a 24" split tube versus going tubeless with no tube at all, using the duct tape/gorilla tape method I have seen demonstrated on You Tube?

  40. #840
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    I think weight-wise there is little difference (maybe a slight advantage to tape). I have seen a lot of people be successful with tape, but the three or four times I tried it the Stans fluid eventually got under the tape and undermined the "stick" on the tape. I gave up before trying that transparent duct tape that more people seem to be using now. I got the tape to take air, but it was leaking within a few days.

    Some will say it's harder to change tires with the split tube method, but I really haven't had any issues, the split tubes I have in my Fatboy have been in there with three different sets of tires.

    I guess in my mind, split tube is pretty much foolproof, I don't like wondering if my tires are going to be flat when I go to grab my bike for a ride.

  41. #841
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    NoTubes - Tire Sealant, Path of Death Puncture De…: NoTubes - Tire Sealant, Path of Death Puncture Demo - YouTube

  42. #842
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    The rimtape only method doesnt really work on these HL-80 rims. I tried and many others tried on this thread too. I couldnt get the tire to seat no matter what I did. You probably could get it to work with a really thick layer of foam under the tape. I had 2 layers under my tape and it didnt work.

    Split tube is easy.
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  43. #843
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    Why did you buy the Lurch over other models and if there was one upgrade less a Bluto what would it be.

  44. #844
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post

    Split tube is easy.
    I just picked up a couple 24" tubes and some stan's. I am planning to drill out the rims to accept schrader valves.

    Is a 24x1.75-2.1 tube wide enough? It measures about 45mm across, deflated. I better have a close look at this before I cut it in half!

  45. #845
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    The Lurch Lounge

    If you can swing by Home Depot and grab some "sill foam" for installing windows and put it under your tube it'll be a LOT easier to seat/inflate the tire.

  46. #846
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captlink View Post
    Why did you buy the Lurch over other models and if there was one upgrade less a Bluto what would it be.
    Steel Frame > Aluminum =P I rather have steel any day if I can make it happen. I also like Sram better. I was considering the Boris Brut but I cant stand Shimano on MTB's. For road I dont like SRAM.

  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captlink View Post
    Why did you buy the Lurch over other models and if there was one upgrade less a Bluto what would it be.
    I originally ordered a BorisX7. Said it was in stock, we bought 2. Next day the wifes shipped and I had an email to call BD. Said they made a mistake and the black Boris X7 was not available in my size. That same day we went to a local trailhead and there was someone there with a Black Lurch. It was love at first site. On the drive home wife says "Your calling and ordering a Lurch aren't you?" Who was I to argue? So in a sense the Lurch itself is my upgrade. Further down the road I would like to upgrade the wheelset. Of course its not due until the second week in January.
    Ed

  48. #848
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    Got out for my first real snow ride yesterday! 1,750' of climbing in 5 miles then back down! (Glad I left it 2x10...) I started at 7psi and ended at 4psi rear and 2.5 in the front. At the beginning I was trenching in really bad and was constantly spinning out. After I dropped the pressures it was AMAZING! So much fun, I was squealing like a kid! Fairly stock Lurch + 780mm bars, a cheap Tmars dropper and ghetto tubeless.

    Here are a couple pics from the ride:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey, I know where that is. La Plata canyon. Can't mistake that chimney on the edge of the road.

    I will definitely be taking my Sturgis Bullet there this winter.
    2013 Specialized Camber Comp
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  49. #849
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    If you haven't ridden ridden Pinon Mesa just south of you on your Sturgus you need to take a trip! Super fun! Also make sure to make the Tour De Fat in Sand Canyon Feb 28th: https://www.facebook.com/events/754329374637209/

  50. #850
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    In regards to 150mm hub adaptors:

    On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 2:13 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:

    Hi Ben,

    They were out of stock n the 15mm adaptors in Taiwan the expected delivery date Jan 30 2015

    Thanks
    Henry
    I've got an extra set of adapters if someone needs them immediately for a BLUTO they're waiting to install. I slapped a BLUTO on last weekend, but didn't care for what it did to the geometry. If I had a large Lurch, it would be a different story, but on my Medium that just fits and rides snow well (really well, actually), things got too wonkified. Went immediately back to rigid. I'll just wait until my Sturgis Bullet shows, and that will be my trail ride. So, if someone wants to borrow these spacers for a few months to get their BLUTO up and running until BD sends them out, PM me and I'll get them to you pronto. If there are multiple responses, in fairness, I'll go in the order that PM's are received. Happy Fatsivus.

  51. #851
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    Cassette Swap

    Quite a ways back in this thread, or maybe it was the moto/BD thread, there was some concern over the material strength of the free hub body and a few reports of individual cogs "digging into" the FH body. My imagination about what was happening to my own FH body was starting to run a little wild and I decided to spend 50 bucks on a new, decent quality cassette. Seemed like a fair price for some peace of mind.

    My lurch has a coupla hundred miles on it and has seen a lot of steep climbing, but not much out of the saddle climbing. Physics-wise, where you're applying the most force to this interface is where you're a heavier guy and you're standing and applying the full force of your body weight to the end of the crank on the downstroke and transmitting it back through the drivetrain components to the splines. A lighter guy just isn't gonna put as much hurt on it. Likewise, if you're a heavy guy and you're seated, but have the leg strength to *almost* lift your ass off the saddle with your pedal downstrokes, you're also exerting a ton of force. And congratulations on your awesomeness.

    I am neither of these, but I also think I'm heavy and strong enough to have put a fair amount of stress on the FH body. I was surprised to see that the damage was not as great as I had guessed, based on the anectdotes I'd read.

    On the stock Lurch cassette, the only two rings that are "spidered" are the two biggest. The other 8 are independent. This is a photo with all 8 indies removed and the two big spidered ones still in place:

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_01.jpg

    So take a look at this next photo. Where the two big spidered cogs land, there is no damage. Then, there are six intermediate cogs where there is some minimal damage, and then there is almost zero damage where the two smallest cogs land:

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_02.jpg

    Here's a pic of the spidered large cog assembly:

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_03.jpg

    Here's the replacement cassette:

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_04.jpg

    And here's the old (L) and new (R):

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_05.jpg

    So right away, the thing that's majorly apparent between the two cassettes is that the Shimano has the *three* biggest rings spidered, thereby spreading the force out over a greater area:

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_06.jpg

    Better even, is that the the next three rings are also spidered together. Word.

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_07.jpg

    So the only four rings that are indy are the four smallest:

    The Lurch Lounge-cassette_08.jpg

    So here's my takeaway. Unless you're a +200 Lb dude who totally MASHES, and I mean in reality, not in your dreams, you probably don't have much to worry about with the stock freehub. It's not a great piece of work, for sure, but like a lot of other stuff on the BD bikes, it's good enough for most of us. As always, YMMV.

    I'm glad I did the swap, as it will make the bike a little stronger and it provided further confirmation that you get what you pay for when you buy a BD bike, and that if you are willing to recognize and accept that, the BD solution might be exactly the right one for you.

    I took a ton of grief on this thread for countering the notion that you get the "same exact bike as a Surly or Spesh or Trek or fill-in-the-blank for *hundreds* less." I guaran-damn-tee you that the cassette/FH body quality differences propagate into the hub and throughout the rest of the fine details of the bike.

    And I'm not saying that's necessarily a bad thing. If the bike does for you what you need it to do, and it fits your budget, then it seems to me that it's a win. But if you expect to spend a third of what you would on a big brand bike and get the exact same quality, then I think it's a you-problem, not a bike problem.

  52. #852
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    Thanks for the thorough opinion in the freehub. You are right that the spidered cassette helps vs individual cogs.

    But I disagree with your assessment that "bd cheaper out here and you get what you pay for" the hub/freehub is a "Novatec" hub they make hubs for dozens of other private label OEM's and hub brands.

    This freehub gouging issue is not exclusive to the Novatec hubs. It is an issue throughout the industry with aluminum freehubs. Just google or search non-fat portions of this site. It is a symptom of all of us wanting lighter bikes and manufacturers trying to find ways to lower weight.

    You will find many many pg1030 cassettes spec'd with aluminum freehubs. From specialized to bikes direct. All of these setups are prone to freehub gouging. And any of these bikes costs many times more.

    The takeaway here should really be:

    Aluminum freehubs shouldn't be spec'd with spider less cassettes. And has nothing to do with the "bikes direct value equation"

    But, we all want a certain pricepoint and OEM's all want a certain profit margin.

  53. #853
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    Sadly its not the novatec hub its just Aluminum is prone to this and rider depending it can happen. I have a few hubs with aluminum bodys and even a SS using a thing steel stamped cog that has no problems but I know others that have destroyed them and even using thicker cogs.

  54. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    Sadly its not the novatec hub its just Aluminum is prone to this and rider depending it can happen. I have a few hubs with aluminum bodys and even a SS using a thing steel stamped cog that has no problems but I know others that have destroyed them and even using thicker cogs.
    Exactly my point it's use of aluminum to chase lower weight which customers want, combined with spider less cogs. Doesn't matter what hub brand or bike brand. So this is not a "bikes direct cheaped out and you get what you pay for"

    In fact, if they really wanted to cheap out, they would have spec'd a steel freehub but then we would all complain how heavy the bike is and complain how "bd cheaped out by using cheap and heavy steel like on super low end and department store bikes".

    We are fickle consumers aren't we?

  55. #855
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post
    Thanks for the thorough opinion in the freehub. You are right that the spidered cassette helps vs individual cogs.

    But I disagree with your assessment that "bd cheaper out here and you get what you pay for" the hub/freehub is a "Novatec" hub they make hubs for dozens of other private label OEM's and hub brands.

    This freehub gouging issue is not exclusive to the Novatec hubs. It is an issue throughout the industry with aluminum freehubs. Just google or search non-fat portions of this site. It is a symptom of all of us wanting lighter bikes and manufacturers trying to find ways to lower weight.

    You will find many many pg1030 cassettes spec'd with aluminum freehubs. From specialized to bikes direct. All of these setups are prone to freehub gouging. And any of these bikes costs many times more.

    The takeaway here should really be:

    Aluminum freehubs shouldn't be spec'd with spider less cassettes. And has nothing to do with the "bikes direct value equation"

    But, we all want a certain pricepoint and OEM's all want a certain profit margin.
    neons97, thanks, you make some great points.

    I wasn't clear on this, but my thought was not that they cheaped out on the hub so much as it was that they cheaped out on the spiderless cassette. With that said, I have not gone out and done a comparison of what is spec'd on some of the various models of the brand names I referred to, so a broad assumption is probably not exactly fair.

    However, I do think that given the price point of BD bikes, it's fair to assume that the quality threshold illustrated by this issue will be consistent throughout the rest of the bike. Which is fine. I'm happy that I was able to get this bike for $900. I have had to fuss with some quality issues, starting right from the time I opened the box and have had to replace some parts and expect that I will have to replace some more in the near future. Part of the deal. It's a decent, serviceable bike, nothing more, nothing less.

  56. #856
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    I also swapped out cassetes for the same reason. Wish I could post photos of mine, the groves in the freehub body were much longer. 3rd and 4th gear grooves were nearly worn through the smallest of the lands used to orient the cassette. I am having fun on this bike BUT I am getting tired of "trailside engeneering" to keep it going. It hasn't stranded me yet but the headset has loosened a few times mid ride, the rear brake caliper has to be tightened frequently as it slides in the mounting slots that were needed to allow horizontal drops. There were other issues also that needed attention. Luckily I am a part time mechanic at our LBS.
    Oh well it is a fun bike to mess around on. Check us out on youtube at #websterOUTLAWS, #kitCARSON (that's me doing the wheelie), and some other websterOUTLAWS videos.

  57. #857
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    Still lovin da Lurch...I just wish the snow would stick around longer
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-20141214_102058.jpg  

    Salsa El Mariachi SS
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  58. #858
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    The 24x2 tube I picked up was barely big enough split to fill the rim and no way I was going to seat it without an air compressor (mine is in storage). So I threw the tube back in and went car camping. I like the lurch a lot more than the kona wo I had, based on my one ride today around dry areas of the great salt lake (low water levels right now so we rode in the lake).

  59. #859
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    So since the Lurch is steel who here has the guts the Bluto it, cut the rear, and weld up a rear sussy setup. I'm almost thinking about buying one just to try the project.

  60. #860
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    Catching Freshies on AZ trail

    Went for a couple snow rides this weekend. Not a ton of snow here yet but just enough to make it interesting, maybe 4" I'm instantly hooked on snow riding. I definitely wasn't setting any speed records, but my Sunday ride was some of the best fun I've had on a bike. Not really an adrenaline high, just super zen happy fun time. Like skiing.

    The Lurch Lounge-rimg0741.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-rimg0742.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-rimg0746.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-rimg0760.jpg

    Thoughts on the bike: My tubeless (gorrila-tape, foam and stans) is holding up well, but once I get the pressure around where I want, the tires start burping, which is no fun. Maybe I didn't build up the bottom of the rim enough. I decided to go for the expensive fix on this one, 90mm carbon rim wheels from Q2 cycling on order! Pricey, yes, but I've always thought wheels are the single most important upgrade performance-wise.

    Unlike some others here, the wide Q-factor on this crankset is trashing my knees. I'm 5'7", and in good shape, but I inherited bad knees. So, Race Face Next SL 1x setup on the way. 75mm chanline with 202mm Q factor. I'm hoping this will help. Also got a wolftooth 42t cog for the rear to help keep some of the gearing range.

    Am I spending too much money on this bike? Maybe. Although, I think the Lurch is a good platform to try out fat biking. There's a learning curve for the equipment on this sport, and I think if I would've plopped all my money down at once for a fancy Titanium dream-weenie, I wouldn't have ended up with the optimal setup. Also, I didn't know if I was going to enjoy slogging through the snow on a bike. Turns out its great fun.

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    Went for a couple snow rides this weekend. Not a ton of snow here yet but just enough to make it interesting, maybe 4" I'm instantly hooked on snow riding. I definitely wasn't setting any speed records, but my Sunday ride was some of the best fun I've had on a bike. Not really an adrenaline high, just super zen happy fun time. Like skiing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thoughts on the bike: My tubeless (gorrila-tape, foam and stans) is holding up well, but once I get the pressure around where I want, the tires start burping, which is no fun. Maybe I didn't build up the bottom of the rim enough. I decided to go for the expensive fix on this one, 90mm carbon rim wheels from Q2 cycling on order! Pricey, yes, but I've always thought wheels are the single most important upgrade performance-wise.

    Unlike some others here, the wide Q-factor on this crankset is trashing my knees. I'm 5'7", and in good shape, but I inherited bad knees. So, Race Face Next SL 1x setup on the way. 75mm chanline with 202mm Q factor. I'm hoping this will help. Also got a wolftooth 42t cog for the rear to help keep some of the gearing range.

    Am I spending too much money on this bike? Maybe. Although, I think the Lurch is a good platform to try out fat biking. There's a learning curve for the equipment on this sport, and I think if I would've plopped all my money down at once for a fancy Titanium dream-weenie, I wouldn't have ended up with the optimal setup. Also, I didn't know if I was going to enjoy slogging through the snow on a bike. Turns out its great fun.
    Great pics Bike'nSplit.

    I can understand the apprehension of buying expensive parts for a budget frame but you can always move those parts to something else in the future if you choose to upgrade although I don't see much else out there in a steel frame with 190mm rear and a non PF bottom bracket. If I didn't have so much money invested in Pugsley wheels, I'd buy a Lurch now too. I'd like to here about your experiences after the upgrades, especially with regards to weight and q factor.

  62. #862
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    Went up to the Methow Valley and rode some "groomed" trails while my wife was XC skiing. The skiing was terrible, lots of icey spots and hard crust, BUT the biking was awesome

    And the Bluto was really nice to smooth out the bumps and provide cushionin for jumps!

    The Lurch Lounge-kimg0703.jpg

  63. #863
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    Id still love to know if anyone has A) Changed the front ring to a 32T and had a problem with the water bottle cage mounts in the way of the derailleur clamp and B) Anyone attempt to bash the crankset using something like a BBG?

  64. #864
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    Spovegas, does the xt casette shift better?

    I run XT on my other bike and love them, I mostly hate the noise the sram casette makes while shifting.

  65. #865
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Spovegas, does the xt casette shift better?

    I run XT on my other bike and love them, I mostly hate the noise the sram casette makes while shifting.
    Can't say yet. For various reasons, I've mostly been riding my skinny-ass bike since the swap.

  66. #866
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    Possible rack to get to work on the Lurch.

    Aluminum Alloy Bicycle Bike Rear Rack - US$25.55

  67. #867
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    Utah,
    I went with the XT cassette also. No improvement in shifting but I'm not gouging the freehub body anymore. If you want to improve shifting toss the X9 and go with ANY Shimano. The only SRAM mountain shifters I've can say were smooth and positive are higher end Grip Shift. As a bike shop mechanic I know many others prefer SRAM so as they say "Your mileage may vary".

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyroadie66 View Post
    Utah,
    I went with the XT cassette also. No improvement in shifting but I'm not gouging the freehub body anymore. If you want to improve shifting toss the X9 and go with ANY Shimano. The only SRAM mountain shifters I've can say were smooth and positive are higher end Grip Shift. As a bike shop mechanic I know many others prefer SRAM so as they say "Your mileage may vary".
    Its funny you say that because I have two MTB's with Shimano and all my others all have SRAM and I must say I HATE my Shimano stuff but when it comes to road I love Shimano groups and cant stand SRAM.

  69. #869
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    To anyone out there considering the trendy 1X10 set-up I say good luck pedaling in deep snow. I finally got a chance to ride some deep heavy snow and what a work out it is even in granny/ first. I'm glad I didn't have a heart rate monitor on, it would have told me to go to the hospital, and I am in very good cardio shape. You may be OK on groomed trails or well packed snowmobile trails with a 1X set up.

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyroadie66 View Post
    To anyone out there considering the trendy 1X10 set-up I say good luck pedaling in deep snow. I finally got a chance to ride some deep heavy snow and what a work out it is even in granny/ first. I'm glad I didn't have a heart rate monitor on, it would have told me to go to the hospital, and I am in very good cardio shape. You may be OK on groomed trails or well packed snowmobile trails with a 1X set up.
    I've definitely considered that this might be a problem. However, I'm hoping the 42t Wolftooth rear cog will make things doable. According to Sheldon Brown's gearing calculator 28t front/42t rear is halfway between 1st and 2nd /granny with the stock setup.

  71. #871
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    You'll be all set with a 28 front. Where I live we have to ride a bit of roads to connect trails (check out #websterOUTLAWS on youtube, that's me in the aero position on the road just goofing around) so it's nice having the 36 in front. I actually wish I had a triple in front, guess I'm dating myself but I like having options for any condition.

  72. #872
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    I'm running XT casette, XT RD, XT FD, XTR crank, XTR shifters on my XC bike - Love love love that setup.

    I don't care for the sram shifters on the lurch, sounds tin-y when shifting and i miss being able to switch multiple gears in both directions. Will say it's been reliable so I haven't had a reason to switch it. I feel like the crank gears are made of old tuna can lids they're so soft and flexy. Definitely think a crank would help this bike a lot.


    Been riding my skinny bike too, it was like 55degress pretty consistently for the last couple weeks. Definitely unseasonably warm. Rode the fatbike on sunday. Was 28deg leaving my house at 9 am, about 10 or so it warmed to above freezing - turned my bike into a muddy mess, so I invested in a rear fender. Going to try and ride it tomorrow night and see how it does.

  73. #873
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    Got a chance to test out my DIY studs today! Great ride!

    The Lurch Lounge-10801955_10100204277647817_2315642017845385121_n.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-10433694_10100204280422257_46664362622710338_n.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-10409459_10100204276589937_7743252798433526274_n.jpg
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  74. #874
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyroadie66 View Post
    To anyone out there considering the trendy 1X10 set-up I say good luck pedaling in deep snow. I finally got a chance to ride some deep heavy snow and what a work out it is even in granny/ first. I'm glad I didn't have a heart rate monitor on, it would have told me to go to the hospital, and I am in very good cardio shape. You may be OK on groomed trails or well packed snowmobile trails with a 1X set up.
    You could still do a 1x setup with a smaller ring in the front. I have really strong legs and I was really huffing in 5 inches of fresh powder in the small ring. But I never got down to granny gear. In fact, I've never used the granny. Anyway, I use 1x on my 29er, but my Lurch will remain 2x10. Don't care about weight anyway.
    Nathan

  75. #875
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    28/42 would be close enough to stock gearing 24/36. Anything less would be chore. I just don't get the 1x craze, I have three bikes set up 1x and they are not better than 2x, they are.more limited in range no matter how you cut it. The only reason to go 1x is if you don't need a wide range of gears. For anything but flat, you need the range.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    I've definitely considered that this might be a problem. However, I'm hoping the 42t Wolftooth rear cog will make things doable. According to Sheldon Brown's gearing calculator 28t front/42t rear is halfway between 1st and 2nd /granny with the stock setup.

  76. #876
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    Who needs range? Or gears? 1x1 is the way to go....all you need is muscle to turn the wheels!!!!

  77. #877
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    I have a single speed 29er and a single speed roadbike. The 29er is for the trails when they are dry and fast, the roadbike is for winter riding. The Lurch is for muddy , snowy trails with lots of hills. It doesn't matter if you are Hercules, you need gears here, unless you like walking through the woods. If you don't need gears wal-mart has a fatty for $300.

  78. #878
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    How tall are the folks riding 16" frames? I am 5'7" and not sure which to go with.

  79. #879
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    I am also 5'7". My 16" frame fits great.

    Compare effective top tube lengths to your current bike(s) if you are worried.

  80. #880
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    Go with the TT over what others are riding but at your height unless you have freaky long arms and long legs the 16 will most likely fit you better. I am 5'10.5 and went with a 18 the TT is in the same range as my other bikes and the stand over is perfect. My friend has a 16 and fit her perfect at 5'7 with a longer inseam the reach was perfect and the 400mm post got her saddle height and some.

  81. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaXCarp View Post
    How tall are the folks riding 16" frames? I am 5'7" and not sure which to go with.
    I'm 5'8" and got the 16... it fits with a long-ish stem and risers. Hindsight being 20/20, I would've gone with 18 and a shorter stem.

    Sixes, I guess.

  82. #882
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    Thinking about getting a Lurch, but I want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. From the photos, I don't see any braze-ons on the seat stays. Has anyone mounted a rack other than a seat-post rack?

  83. #883
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    I'm 5'8" and got the 16... it fits with a long-ish stem and risers. Hindsight being 20/20, I would've gone with 18 and a shorter stem.

    Sixes, I guess.
    What stems are people using on the 16" frames? I have been leaning 18" for this reason. My trail bike, a medium knolly endorphin I run a 45mm stem on. I would like to run no longer than a 50mm on this bike and was thinking I may be too cramped on a 16" with this.

  84. #884
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaXCarp View Post
    What stems are people using on the 16" frames? I have been leaning 18" for this reason. My trail bike, a medium knolly endorphin I run a 45mm stem on. I would like to run no longer than a 50mm on this bike and was thinking I may be too cramped on a 16" with this.
    Keep in mind that your Knolly and the Lurch have two completely different Geo and are meant to be ridden different. Your Knolly has a 67 Head and a 69 Seat tube angle the Lurch is 70.5/72. Riding a stubby stem on the Lurch is probably going to feel really twitchy with those angle.

    Also if you are not over 5'9 the 18 is going to be a ton of top tube in your crotch While I would base your choice over TT mainly also keep in mind if you are not X height a fat bike is going to feel massive with someone on a small frame. I would compare a Fat bike to a 29er. Because the extra meat on the tires will gave you a similar stance. If you could ride a 17.5 or 18inch 29er with out feeling like you are out of place then Id say it could work for you but if you have to toss a leg over to mount the bike and feel like your wheel base is way to long for you to comfortably handle then get the 16. They are not nimble when they are one size to big for you no matter how short of a stem you run.

  85. #885
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    If you ride a medium Endorphin, then the medium 18" Lurch has the most similar specs.

    I ride an 18" Lurch with a 60mm stem/760mm bars, I was riding a 45mm stem but it was a little tight for my knees when climbing out of the saddle.

    I'm 6', 32" inseam, normal proportion. I ride an 18" Honzo and a medium KHS 6500. I was riding larger frames a few years ago, but it seems like the frames are getting stretched as the stems get shorter; kinda reminds me of shopping for women's clothing...

    I think the Lurch with short stem rides well, I also have it slacked out a bit with the CC Angleset and the Bluto.

    I'm not sure that I would go back to a 45mm because the bike handles better with the 60mm; less twitchy on the down, less wheel lift on the up. I also slid the wheel back ~10-15mm to reduce wheel lift, which helped helped with handling all the way around. I think stem length matters, but with sliding drops you can really tweak the ride.

    I could ride a Lurch Large (20"), but it would be a big stretch and I don't think I would feel as "in the bike" as I like to feel. I am definitely a lover of tight cockpits and quick handling.

    Quote Originally Posted by LaXCarp View Post
    What stems are people using on the 16" frames? I have been leaning 18" for this reason. My trail bike, a medium knolly endorphin I run a 45mm stem on. I would like to run no longer than a 50mm on this bike and was thinking I may be too cramped on a 16" with this.

  86. #886
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    Trail side engineering?

    Well, I ride my Lurch a lot, but I still have yet to have a trail failure other than seatpost slippage.

    The aluminum freehub gauging is typical, don't sweat it.

    I have yet to have any caliper or rear wheel slippage, that's with me mashing some big hills up and down in the Cascades, 200# plus kit.

    It's a really solid bike, all I did was add the Bluto/CC Angleset, change tires, tweak the top end (bar, stem, grips). It rides like a much more expensive bike

    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyroadie66 View Post
    I also swapped out cassetes for the same reason. Wish I could post photos of mine, the groves in the freehub body were much longer. 3rd and 4th gear grooves were nearly worn through the smallest of the lands used to orient the cassette. I am having fun on this bike BUT I am getting tired of "trailside engeneering" to keep it going. It hasn't stranded me yet but the headset has loosened a few times mid ride, the rear brake caliper has to be tightened frequently as it slides in the mounting slots that were needed to allow horizontal drops. There were other issues also that needed attention. Luckily I am a part time mechanic at our LBS.
    Oh well it is a fun bike to mess around on. Check us out on youtube at #websterOUTLAWS, #kitCARSON (that's me doing the wheelie), and some other websterOUTLAWS videos.

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyota View Post
    Thinking about getting a Lurch, but I want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. From the photos, I don't see any braze-ons on the seat stays. Has anyone mounted a rack other than a seat-post rack?
    From the Lurch picture, it looks like a rack bolt hole down by rear derailleur. You can then just use seat post rack bracket like the one below. https://www.bikebagshop.com/sunlite-...7&SSAID=822416

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-sunlite-seat-post-clamp-black-silver-stock.jpg  

    Current bikes: 2010 Raleigh Talus 29er with Ergon GP5 grips, Shimano PD-T420 Click'R pedals, Topeak Explorer 29" Disc MTX Rear Rack and Topeak DXP bag.

    2013 Walmart Mongoose Beast blue


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  88. #888
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    Nurseben,
    Consider yourself lucky. 3 in my group all bought Lurches at the same time and we all seem to be constantly tinkering to get them dialed in. To be fair we are quite abusive on equipment, riding drops, lots of roots, up and down stairs picnic tables etc, etc. None of us regret buying the bikes however and (knock on wood) I have 4 rides now without anything more than a bent brake lever from a failed attempt at riding up a 3 1/2 foot embankment out of a creek. I really had to sweat the gouging, I have never seen gouges as elongated as what I had, and I am a bike mech. The XT cassette cures that issue.

  89. #889
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    Think I'm done buying stuff for this bike. I've pretty much got it dialed in. I *might* buy a bud/lou setup after trying to ride it through deep snow. (8-12")

    I fell a lot, and it was pretty miserable. It was so deep I couldn't see the singletrack underneath and I found I was ping ponging off the sides of the singletrack. At some point someone rode it while it was snowing and created another tire path underneath that my bike would randomly follow without warning. Pretty frustrating.

    Had good luck with the revelate frame bag, muckynutz front fender, front fender on the rear and the gut fender on the downtube. Keeps me dry and gives me plenty of room to stow a thin rain jacket, cold weather jersey balaclava, spare pair of gloves, and a tire gauge. The thin side is great to hold a multi tool and snacks/nutrition. Running a medium sized bag on my large frame. The large sized bag was much too large and wouldn't have let me use water bottles.

    Finally got around to installing a riser bar, think I should have done it sooner but I just don't care for upsweep on bars. To get the stack height I wanted with a flat bar I would have had to buy another fork. At that point I think I'll get a fatboy.





    Cleaned it up today:







    Going to try again tomorrow, I'm hoping the trails are packed a bit more.

  90. #890
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Today my rear wheel finally began to play slip and slide within the dropout under hard braking. It's disgusting that something like this can happen. Twice I almost hurt and ended up taking a train back home with my bike in limp mode. I'm really disappointed.

  91. #891
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    I've never had an issue with the rear dropouts sliding, I've got over 200 miles of HARD riding on this thing.

    You oil/grease the skewer pivot? Mine's TIGHT.. have to use gloves to loosen/tighten it.

    I had the brake caliper bracket mount slide against the frame. I had to re-tighten it with loctite and haven't had an issue with it again.

  92. #892
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    I have ridden sliding drops for over thirty years, starting with BMX in the seventies, and though they can slip, it is not that hard to make them stay in place. It's pretty much a user thing. I think it's important that the user understand how sliders work. Talk to your LBS about tips, there's no reason to blame the equipment or the mfg.

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    The Lurch Lounge

    Thanks Utah. I never tried those fixes, for I never had an issue...til now.
    Nurse, considering it's my first time experiencing this, the only thing I can blame is the product itself. I've been more than content with the bike until now.
    Rather than sending me off to the sages for answers, how about you share some of your 30+ years of experience with me? Not many mechanics at these shops can say they've got the same amount of time under the belts.

  94. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkitekt View Post
    Today my rear wheel finally began to play slip and slide within the dropout under hard braking. It's disgusting that something like this can happen. Twice I almost hurt and ended up taking a train back home with my bike in limp mode. I'm really disappointed.
    This would be called user error 0.o I have multiple bikes with sliding dropouts and never had any problems with them moving unless they loosen up and I dont run a chain tug. The Lurch even has bolts to stop them from moving. QR should be snug that it isnt pulling it on top of that. My Nashbar Fatty has the same style dropout and it has never once changed positions in the last year of heavy use.

    https://www.bikesdirect.com/products...s/IMG_8230.jpg

  95. #895
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Let's jump on the user error bandwagon.

    Ian, while you're assuming it's my mistake- broaden your perspective and also assume that I just may have done the right thing as well.
    Now considering the direction of travel in relation to the direction in which the wheel slips under hard braking; do you think the "bolts to stop them from moving" are actually preventing the wheel from moving rearward? (Hint: opposing directions)

  96. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkitekt View Post
    Let's jump on the user error bandwagon.

    Ian, while you're assuming it's my mistake- broaden your perspective and also assume that I just may have done the right thing as well.
    Now considering the direction of travel in relation to the direction in which the wheel slips under hard braking; do you think the "bolts to stop them from moving" are actually preventing the wheel from moving rearward? (Hint: opposing directions)
    Like I said I have the same dropouts and never once had them move on me. Its user error because they shouldnt move if the QR is snug. I have tons of miles on my fat bike and I have never ONCE seen them go out of alinement. Even on my other SS that use the same dropouts they have never once moved no matter how hard I ride it.

    And IF your QR was down so tight that it shouldnt have moved and it did then direction of travel would cause that QR is snap in half if you had that much force or dig into your dropouts.

  97. #897
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    Don't sweat the blame, it is user error because there is no design failure other than a broken QR that will cause the wheel to slip except imroper install. Denial will not solve the problem. If you were a riding buddy, I'd fix it for you.

    To start:

    1) clean the paint from the drops, inside and out.
    2) clean the paint and grime from the knurled areas on the hub and QR
    3 grease the QR cam contact.
    4) adjust the Allen bolts
    5) clamp it down as tight as you can

  98. #898
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkitekt View Post
    those fixes,
    You are not the only one to have this problem, but take heart, it isn't a flawed design. Surly, who know a thing or two about fatbikes, have used this same style of dropout for many years.

    Lubricating the pivot contacts on the QR will hep it clam down harder while requiring less force at the QR lever.

    Sanding of the excess paint from the QR contact surfaces on the drop outs will help too. make sure you do both the inside and the outside. Also clean any debris/loose paint of the QR clamping faces.


    EDIT: Ben beat me to it, at least we didn't give conflicting advice.

  99. #899
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    +3

    My lurch slipped the rear QR under hard rear braking the first couple rides. I cleaned everything up and tightened it down "tight as a bull's a-hole" and its never budged since. I didn't sand or lube anything, just cleaned.

  100. #900
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    I have the large revelate tangle bag on my 22" fit is OK for a non custom bag.


  101. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkitekt View Post
    Let's jump on the user error bandwagon.

    Ian, while you're assuming it's my mistake- broaden your perspective and also assume that I just may have done the right thing as well.
    Now considering the direction of travel in relation to the direction in which the wheel slips under hard braking; do you think the "bolts to stop them from moving" are actually preventing the wheel from moving rearward? (Hint: opposing directions)
    I've pretty much stopped contributing to this thread, because the place runs on emotion and there doesn't seem to be much appetite for any kind of objective analysis. Just couldn't let this one go, though.

    Sparkitekt, I am NOT in agreement that your problem is due to user error. I think that user operation of the modern quick release mechanism is pretty well understood and that most people get that the first course of action, if your wheel slips in the dropouts, is to tighten the nut and apply more force to the cam lever. Duh. I think it is a reasonable expectation that when you buy a complete bike, and adjust the nut such that a reasonable amount of force is applied to the cam lever to secure the wheel in place, it shouldn't slip.

    There are obviously some people that have had zero problem with slippage and I am happy that they haven't had to deal with this. But this thread is also full of reports from people who have experienced this problem, and I am one of them. At first, it was really bad, so I can totally relate to your level of frustration. I've spent a lot of time thinking about and working on the problem, and wondering why some have experienced the problem and others haven't. It's easy to jump to the conclusion that it's due to manufacturing variances (or user error, jeez, give me break), but I don't think that is the case here. I think it probably has more to do with combined body/bike mass. High mass hurts you in two ways: it increases your forward intertial force, and it provides you with the increased equal and opposite tractional force. I theorize that the people who haven't had to deal with the problem are on the lighter side of the combined mass spectrum.

    There are two components that contribute to the hub/axle's ability to resist the forces that want to move it in the dropout: the clamping force and the coefficient of friction between the mating parts. Without a sufficient coefficient of friction, even a super high clamping force won't be sufficient. (ian: this is engineering 0.o)

    Most of the suggestions so far have been with respect to increasing the clamping force and this is certainly important. The most significant opportunity for improvement here, IMHO, is the application of some light oil (Tri-Flow or the like), to the cam interface.

    The coefficient of friction issue is harder to tackle. Component design and materials of construction start to come into play here. The first thing I did was to replace the stock skewer with a high quality aftermarket skewer, which in my case was a Hope. This cost me about $20 + shipping.

    Here's a pic of the surfaces of the stock skewer parts that bear against the outside of the dropouts:

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_01.jpg

    And here's a pic of those same surfaces on the Hope:

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_02.jpg

    Both the stock and Hope parts have spent considerable amounts of time in service. The Hope's "teeth" are noticeably more sharp, both visibly and to the touch. Note also that the Hope set has a steel insert on the nut. Not sure why the other side doesn't, but my theory is that the design is optimized to resist the forces imposed by pedaling, which would act primarily on that side of the axle. In reality, I think the higher forces may end up being exerted on the braking side.

    Likewise, here are a coupla pics of the surfaces on the stock Lurch hub that bear against the inside of the dropouts. The NDS surface is knurled, but the teeth are worn pretty flat at this point. The DS bearing surface doesn't have any knurls.

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_03.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_04.jpg

    By comparison, here are some pics of my Alfine hub that was obviously designed to live in sliding dropouts. Knurled surfaces on both sides. This hub has a lot of miles on it and, but the teeth are still fairly sharp and distinct, both to the eye and to the touch.

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_05.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_06.jpg

    Sorry for the poor quality of these next pics - hard to get a the camera in position between dropouts that allows for focus. But the first is a pic of the inside of a dropout of my Karate Monkey that the Alfine lives in. Notice the "bite marks".

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_07.jpg

    Here is the inside of the two dropouts on the Lurch. I know these aren't great pics, but there isn't much in the way of bite marks. Much more evident of smooth surface against smooth surface, which is not ideal.

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_08.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20141227_09.jpg

    There's not a lot that can be done about the inside dropout interface, without spending quite a bit of money. Removal of paint may hinder more than help, since the stock skewer interfaces appear to be softer than the steel dropout material, and may have more "bite" in the paint than they do in the bare steel.

    In my experience, the $20 investment in the Hope (or equivalent quality) skewer will be the biggest help in reducing or eliminating the problem (don't forget to lube the cam, as you still want all the clamping force you can get). This fix, for me, hasn't totally eliminated the problem (I just moved the wheel in the dropouts during hard braking again a couple of weeks ago to the point where the tire sidewall knobs were hitting the chainstay, a sound/feeling I now know all too well), but it has reduced it to a very infrequent level that at this point is more of an annoyance than any kind of show stopper.

    Hope (pardon the pun) this helps.

  102. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Hope (pardon the pun) this helps.
    I also got a hope skewer which eliminated my slippage as well.
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  103. #903
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    Spove, you try putting valve lapping compound on the smooth surfaces. (Dont use on the knurled stuff)

    It's the only stuff I know of that would increase the coefficent of friction. Just an idea, never used it on a bike as this is my only sliding dropout frame I've owned.

  104. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    I also got a hope skewer which eliminated my slippage as well.
    Looking to order a skewer before mine gets here. Where did y'all find them for $20?

  105. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Spove, you try putting valve lapping compound on the smooth surfaces. (Dont use on the knurled stuff)

    It's the only stuff I know of that would increase the coefficent of friction. Just an idea, never used it on a bike as this is my only sliding dropout frame I've owned.
    Mike, I haven't, but I think that's a great idea that's worth trying.

  106. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auzyman View Post
    Looking to order a skewer before mine gets here. Where did y'all find them for $20?
    Sorry, I was not remembering quite accurately. Looks like they're more in the $25 range, plus shipping. One source here.

  107. #907
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    Spove, how about some friction paste if you have that and not valve lapping compound on the shelf?

  108. #908
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxer View Post
    Spove, how about some friction paste if you have that and not valve lapping compound on the shelf?
    Not sure. I don't really know much about the ingredients of friction paste, but since it's designed primarily to be used between carbon and aluminum surfaces, I'm not sure how it would hold up in this application. Might be worth a try.

  109. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Not sure. I don't really know much about the ingredients of friction paste, but since it's designed primarily to be used between carbon and aluminum surfaces, I'm not sure how it would hold up in this application. Might be worth a try.
    It's basically fine sand suspended in paste.

  110. #910
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    About to pull the trigger on the Lurch X9 with the Bluto......for the price I can't see a reason not to do it.

    Am I right in assuming these wheels are offset style? Or am I wrong about that?

    Thinking that at 5' 10-5'11" 185lbs and 32" inseam that the 18" with the Bluto would be the right size.....since the Bluto adds 1" tot he stand over.....

    Thinking of picking up carbon bars, Ergons and a better seat clamp right from the get go.....anything else?

    BTW, what pedals are people using in the snow? Flats like Wellgos or SPDs.....I have a couple pairs of 545s laying around I could use....best of both worlds.....

    Thanks

    Steve

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    Just ordered an 18" Orange tonight after reading all 910 posts on this thread. Bike should arrive in a couple of weeks. I'm curious to see if BD paid attention to this thread and made any improvements re: back wheel slippage/cheap skewer, rear brake mount, etc, from the last shipments to the one expected in a couple of weeks.

    Thanks to all for the honest and informative posts re this bike, it made all the difference in terms of feeling informed for ordering one online! I'll post my experience with shipping, assembly, etc.

  112. #912
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    Nine hundred and ten, it's a bike. I think I'm with Spov.

  113. #913
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    Quote Originally Posted by River19 View Post
    About to pull the trigger on the Lurch X9 with the Bluto......for the price I can't see a reason not to do it.

    Am I right in assuming these wheels are offset style? Or am I wrong about that?

    Thinking that at 5' 10-5'11" 185lbs and 32" inseam that the 18" with the Bluto would be the right size.....since the Bluto adds 1" tot he stand over.....

    Thinking of picking up carbon bars, Ergons and a better seat clamp right from the get go.....anything else?

    BTW, what pedals are people using in the snow? Flats like Wellgos or SPDs.....I have a couple pairs of 545s laying around I could use....best of both worlds.....

    Thanks

    Steve
    Hi there! I think its a pretty good choice on the Lurch! Im having a lot of fun with it!

    IM 6'4" on the 21", so sizing is hard for me to answer! I put some carbon bars on mine, nice in the cold. I also swapped out the seatpost clamp and rear skewer. No issues. I also replaced the stop bolts for the rear tire with some rear facing 4x10mm stainless ones, pics on page 11.

    I ride SPDs. I have been on SPDs and anything else just feels weird.

    My only long term complaint about the lurch is the difficulty getting the front and rear wheels off. They just are not very smooth. Maybe its user error.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  114. #914
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    River, Wheels are not offset type as on many Surlys. This makes them a bit easier on and off. I had to do a little rear brake caliper finagling with some spacers to get enough room for the rotor to clear the caliper but now it seems to be OK.

  115. #915
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    My only long term complaint about the lurch is the difficulty getting the front and rear wheels off. They just are not very smooth. Maybe its user error.
    Removal of the front wheel should be no different from any other disc brake front wheel. Just unscrew the QR enough to get past the retaining lips on the fork.

    The rear wheel is a bit different because of the horizontal dropouts. Biggest tip to getting it on and off with out a battle is to lock the rear derailleur so as to not have to fight chain tension. The locking feature on the derailleur is very handy.

  116. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyroadie66 View Post
    River, Wheels are not offset type as on many Surlys. This makes them a bit easier on and off. I had to do a little rear brake caliper finagling with some spacers to get enough room for the rotor to clear the caliper but now it seems to be OK.
    Thanks for the clarification. I'm debating the Boris vs. Lurch either with the Bluto.....I don't see myyself necessarily running 5" tires......so I'm wondering if the added Q etc. of the Lurch is necessary.

    Update:
    Awe crap, I just went through the Sturgis vs. Lurch vs. Boris thing for a few hours.....back to the lurch....if I am honest with myself I will probably only use this in snow and muddy/crap weather.....therefore, I probably will like 4.5" snow shoes.....and BB7s (again after riding them years ago).

    My only concern is the Lurch weight.......btw, I read the tubes can be swapped for something lighter.....Q Tubes?
    Last edited by River19; 12-30-2014 at 12:17 PM.

  117. #917
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    clarification

    I wouldn't worry about the weight, just realize it's heavy. One advantage to the weight issue is that your other bikes will feel light. I busted out my old Yeti 575 the other day because the trails were frozen solid and after many rides on the Lurch that old 29lb bike felt really light.The Lurch is a great bike in mud and cruddy conditions. Q factor is a personal thing I guess. I never gave it a thought until I read many posts here, so I guess it does bother some. I wouldn't worry much about front suspension either, the front tire provides quite a bit of squish. It's all roots and rocks where I ride and I never wished for suspension on the Lurch, even on 3 hour rides. The Snowshoe tires are OK but Surly Bud and Lous are MUCH better at handling slimey camber. I love BB7s, Ive had at least one set on a bike since they came out and do not feel that they are a handicap even compared to the Hayes Hydros on my Yeti or the Avid Hydros on my Scott. With the Lurch just be ready to tinker alot to get it "dialed", although some here will dis agree with that.
    Last edited by dirtyroadie66; 12-30-2014 at 05:27 PM. Reason: content

  118. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyroadie66 View Post
    I wouldn't worry about the weight, just realize it's heavy. One advantage to the weight issue is that your other bikes will feel light. I busted out my old Yeti 575 the other day because the trails were frozen solid and after many rides on the Lurch that old 29lb bike felt really light.The Lurch is a great bike in mud and cruddy conditions. Q factor is a personal thing I guess. I never gave it a thought until I read many posts here, so I guess it does bother some. I wouldn't worry much about front suspension either, the front tire provides quite a bit of squish. It's all roots and rocks where I ride and I never wished for suspension on the Lurch, even on 3 hour rides. The Snowshoe tires are OK but Surly Bud and Lous are MUCH better at handling slimey camber. I love BB7s, Ive had at least one set on a bike since they came out and do not feel that they are a handicap even compared to the Hayes Hydros on my Yeti or the Avid Hydros on my Scott. With the Lurch just be ready to tinker alot to get it "dialed", although some here will dis agree with that.
    Thanks again.

    I don't mind some time on the park tool stand to play with things.....I will probably immediately swap out the bars, grips, stem, pedals and seat.....and clamp.....

    Is the dialing in more from shifting issues?

    And I'm absolutely getting the Bluto lol......my arms have taken a pounding from 20 years of 12 hour keyboard and mouse days.....

  119. #919
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    Shifting was one issue, I ended up putting a new cable on the rear derailleur and it shifts ok, but not up to Shimano standards. Rear brake caliper tended to slide in its slotted mount. Had to add a few spacers to get the rear caliper at the right height or the top of the rotor would rub on the caliper. The rear slides out of the drops once in a while on super steep climbs, although knock on wood that has not happened in a while. Stock cassette gouged the freehub body almost to the point where 3 gear was going to just slide around in the new groove. XT cassette fixed that. Steering head bearings tended to loosen frequently, but seem to have settled now. That's about it,nothing that made me walk, just a bunch of small stuff and I'll be honest I'm a bit abusive.

  120. #920
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    Cool thanks.

    I'm used to running SRAM drivetrains, all 1x9s at this point though on my FS, my softail and my HT......2x still on my wife's FS however......all SRAM, so hopefully it is familiar quirks.

    I have run BB7s before, have a set on a shelf right now from 2006, believe it or not all of my bikes successfully run Juicy 7s with no issues.

    The thing on that list that worries me a bit is the dropout thing......I haven't had sliding dropouts since I stopped racing BMX in 1990......lol....What is the trick with those? Scrape off some paint, maybe throw some loctite on the bolt surface where it meets the frame?

  121. #921
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    Mine has had to be tightened a few times so the paint kinda came off on its own. Maybe that's why it now seems to stay tight.

  122. #922
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    My rear caliper did that. Took the paint off, primered the mounts and all is swell.

    Jagwire housing and cables on everything made a big difference for the better

  123. #923
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    Thanks spovegas! and everyone else posting in this thread! I'm happy to announce that I just bought my first off-road bike. I've been a road rider for many years; now I'm ready to take to the dirt, snow, gravel, whatever with my recently ordered Lurch! Can't wait until it arrives! I'm also considering a hard tail MTB, although that will have to wait a while.

    Thank you all for the valuable insight and informative posts!

  124. #924
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    Congratulations. You are going to have a blast on this thing. I love my Lurch. After riding this, the idea of getting on a "normal" hard tail mountain bike is laughable. The waiting is going to drive you nuts. But it'll be worth it. Enjoy.

  125. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychlist View Post
    Thanks spovegas! and everyone else posting in this thread! I'm happy to announce that I just bought my first off-road bike. I've been a road rider for many years; now I'm ready to take to the dirt, snow, gravel, whatever with my recently ordered Lurch! Can't wait until it arrives! I'm also considering a hard tail MTB, although that will have to wait a while.

    Thank you all for the valuable insight and informative posts!
    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Congratulations. You are going to have a blast on this thing. I love my Lurch. After riding this, the idea of getting on a "normal" hard tail mountain bike is laughable. The waiting is going to drive you nuts. But it'll be worth it. Enjoy.
    I took my 26er Full Sus to the trails today just to mix it up. It went back in my truck after about 15min and me hating not riding my fat bike =P Out came the fatty and I had blast like I always do!

    So my Lurch with a Bluto will hopefully be shipped with in the next two weeks. I have the following sitting in my parts box waiting for it to arrive!

    740mm Bars
    90mm Stem
    Lock-on Grips
    SPD's
    Race Face Narrow Wide 30T Chainring
    42T OneUp Rear Cassette kit W/16T

    Going to run it 1x10 and hopefully it will do well in the snow and on the climbs. I went back and forth about running a 32/22 chainring set up or 1x10 and after talking with my friend I am kind of convinced that the 42T OneUp kit should be a good bail out gear and for snow give me a wide range of gears since I will be using it along side a 30T Chainring.

    Felt like I have been waiting so long for it to come off preorder but these next two weeks are going to drag!

  126. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I love my Lurch. After riding this, the idea of getting on a "normal" hard tail mountain bike is laughable.
    So...what I'm hearing is..."once you've had fat, you never go back"

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    Thanks Ian and Watermonkey!

  127. #927
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    Took our my 1997 Ibis Alibi 1x9 today.......33 degrees.....right before the snow.....had a blast.....love that friggin' classic HT......

    A couple Surlys past me going the other way.....cliche'....lol

    I am thinking the Lurch is a good way to get a quality dedicated snow bike with a Bluto.....I can buy nicer wheels at some point......and here's the laughable part.... I can buy the Lurch for $1300......ride for a while....if I like the FB thing, I can buy a Surly etc. frame for $500-600 and still only be within a hundred bucks or so of the rigid Pugsley build which wouldn't be able to handle a 5" tire......

  128. #928
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    Eeeehhh.. even with a 42t casette gear and 30t crank - good luck in the snow

    I ran a 34t narrow wide and 42t casette on my 29er. I had insaine amounts of drivetrain wear (600-800mi before chains/casettes needed to be replaced) I could never get it shifting decent, either. Id adjust it and it would need readjustment 100mi later. (Full xt drivetrain)

    In snow I find myself living in the granny gear on the lurch. The rd freezes and doesnt shift anyways. I usually ride this bike in poor trail or weather conditions so I bet wear with a 1x setup would be much worse. This bike is suprisingly good out of the box, although I feel like the crank/gears are the first thing worth upgrading (after your favorite cockpit setup of course)

    Other thing about 1x setup is that the gear jumps are larger and finding the perfect amount of effort to move quickly and not sweat will be much more difficult. Thats actually the hardest thing for me... riding slow enough to not sweat but going quick enough to keep my core temp up

  129. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Eeeehhh.. even with a 42t casette gear and 30t crank - good luck in the snow

    I ran a 34t narrow wide and 42t casette on my 29er. I had insaine amounts of drivetrain wear (600-800mi before chains/casettes needed to be replaced) I could never get it shifting decent, either. Id adjust it and it would need readjustment 100mi later. (Full xt drivetrain)

    In snow I find myself living in the granny gear on the lurch. The rd freezes and doesnt shift anyways. I usually ride this bike in poor trail or weather conditions so I bet wear with a 1x setup would be much worse. This bike is suprisingly good out of the box, although I feel like the crank/gears are the first thing worth upgrading (after your favorite cockpit setup of course)

    Other thing about 1x setup is that the gear jumps are larger and finding the perfect amount of effort to move quickly and not sweat will be much more difficult. Thats actually the hardest thing for me... riding slow enough to not sweat but going quick enough to keep my core temp up
    Im in NJ so for me the trails are a bit different. I got to ride a 1x11 fat bike and felt like it had solid gearing but I can also just leave the granny on the lurch and just move it to the little ring if I really end up needed it. The OneUp kit (and others) seem to work better with SRAM, from what I have found online and talked to my friends. Shimano RD tend to not take to well to the big cog kits.

    I run a 1x9 on my one 29er and i don't or haven't noticed any massive wear to the cassette or chain out side the normal use. I really only use my 32T ring on my normal trails, my granny gets used when I am in deep deep deep swamp mud or sugar sand and on a few gnarly climbs out side my normal stomping ground. So I will give it ago and report back out the 1x10 lurch works out. If worst case is it sucks in the snow I will just turn it back to a double for the winter and back to 1x10 for the spring, summer, fall. When I got to ride the 1x11 it felt like over kill for the gears and I never even made it to the bail out, but then again that was in the fall/winter with great trail conditions. Also the OneUp kit comes with a 16T cog so you don't have that big gap. Personally Id like to drop the 11T cog if I could. I found a thread that someone did just that and got a bigger lock ring. So he was able to keep his gearing while adding the 42T and only losing a cog I almost never use.

  130. #930
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    Hello everyone, I think this is the first time I've posted on these forums in over 10 years. I didn't know what my old log in was so had to register a new one. I just ordered an orange Lurch last night. I've been looking at fat bikes for the past year or two and can remember when the bike shops in Anchorage had the expensive and wide snowcat wheels back in the late 90's. They were mind blowing!

    I've been considering a fat bike off and on for a couple years and finally stopped by REI about a month ago to check them out in person. I was shocked by how expensive they were ($1,600-$2,000) and they weren't even brands I'd heard of, Charge and Cogburn. I then kind of decided on a Specialized Fatboy and called on one to learn my size wasn't in stock and weren't sure when one was coming in. I then stumbled on the bikesdirect outfit and after a lot of reading, including this whole thread, I ordered one.

    For me, I can't justify spending the money they want for the brand name fatbikes. I mean really, what are you getting? It's a rigid MTB with big tires. It's the same basic thing as was first marketed in the early 80's, a tougher, more capable bicycle equipped (for the time) with big tires and capable of being ridden off-road. The bike OEM's must be laughing all the way to the bank with the soaring popularity of these very basic and heavy bikes that can't cost much to manufacture since there is nothing to them. I've never bought anything from bikesdirect and had to fight my inner bike snob to actually go through with it. But, I'd feel like a chump for spending what, $2400 for a Surley Ice Cream truck which the Lurch seems based off of? $2400 and you don't even get a suspension fork, fricking crazy!!!

    I'm looking forward to the arrival of my bike. It appears it is made in Taiwan just like all the other brand name frames out there. In my research I learned even Cannondale now has their bikes built in Asia. I'm left dumbfounded as to how the brand name manufacturers can justify the ridiculously high prices for these very basic and simple bicycles.

  131. #931
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    I'm Probably Done

    Love my Lurch. I got one of the first bunch to hit the States. I could have left it stock…but I love to tinker. As it sits, it is now just under 28 lbs. Not bad for a Large. A very fun bike to ride in all conditions.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-lurch.jpg  


  132. #932
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    How'd u get it so light?

  133. #933
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auzyman View Post
    How'd u get it so light?
    Just by going off MainColtsFa's photo, I'd say it looks like he's put on a carbon wheelset, front fork, seat post, seat, and probably a carbon stem and handle bars for starters. If he went tubeless... It's not too hard to drop 10+ lbs on one of these bikes, the question is, how much do you want to spend?

    Cheers,
    appalachian kamper

  134. #934
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    nice ride Maine!! yeah... would love a spec list on that lurch.. nice!

    My Blk Lurch is a pig... I love it.. Had to replace the rear Hub with a Hope Snopro... cracked in half... I'm a bit of a torque m monster on some things at 255. hehe..

    Anyway...after a few upgrades with the hub and tires...(put bud and Lou on...and raceface stem and bars...etc.) I'm looking for a good set of cranks?? Anyone have a good upgrade they're using?

    thank you!
    cheers!
    k n o ll y r o c k s

  135. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auzyman View Post
    How'd u get it so light?
    Quote Originally Posted by Appalachian_Kamper View Post
    Just by going off MainColtsFa's photo, I'd say it looks like he's put on a carbon wheelset, front fork, seat post, seat, and probably a carbon stem and handle bars for starters. If he went tubeless... It's not too hard to drop 10+ lbs on one of these bikes, the question is, how much do you want to spend?

    Cheers,
    appalachian kamper
    ^^^^^ Carbon!! My Nashbar fatty is in the low 30's I wanna say 31 or 32lb now? It was easy to drop the pounds after swapping out the cockpit and once I upgraded to X9/BB7 that shaved some more off. Carbon rims, new hub, replacing the heavy cockpit will do wonders for these bikes. The frames alone are no more in weight then other fat bike steel frames.

    Mhhh has for cranks Id probably just wait until they break on you, maybe just change the rings out? From what I have seen the stock cranks seem to just be on the par with the X5 SRAM fat bike cranks other then logo. Or at least thats what people are saying they resemble. Someone I know has the same crankset and its holding up well. I have Hussefelt on my Nashbar and I really enjoy them. They are for 100mm BB as well.

  136. #936
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    Greetings, haven't been on this site for quite a few years. Now that I am doing the fat bike thing, I'm baaackkk!!

    Just ordered the 2015 Lurch in black. Would like to do the blue/black combo. Blue seat post clamp, skewers, brake handles, stems, etc...

    Any suggestions on these items??

  137. #937
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    Wow, guess we are in a parallel universe. I just ordered the Lurch ( first time fat biker ) and it's been as long since I've been on MtBr.

  138. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    ^^^^^ Carbon!! My Nashbar fatty is in the low 30's I wanna say 31 or 32lb now? It was easy to drop the pounds after swapping out the cockpit and once I upgraded to X9/BB7 that shaved some more off. Carbon rims, new hub, replacing the heavy cockpit will do wonders for these bikes. The frames alone are no more in weight then other fat bike steel frames.

    Mhhh has for cranks Id probably just wait until they break on you, maybe just change the rings out? From what I have seen the stock cranks seem to just be on the par with the X5 SRAM fat bike cranks other then logo. Or at least thats what people are saying they resemble. Someone I know has the same crankset and its holding up well. I have Hussefelt on my Nashbar and I really enjoy them. They are for 100mm BB as well.
    Thanks Ian.... that's some of the info I was looking for! I was wondering about the cranks. They have been fine so far but I guess the "upgrade itch" gets to me more often nowadays with more than one bike now. Love the snopro hub now... little pricey b/c only a few options for 190 rear spacing... but looks and feels killer over the Novatec...going to see if I can get money back or something for that broken hub... it's only been a few months since owning my Lurch...this thing has been through everything except snow so far.. so cool.

    Thanks again!
    k n o ll y r o c k s

  139. #939
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    Ok guys, so close to the next batch shipping !!! The wait has been agonizing to be sure !!

    I'm 5' 10" 175 lbs 32" inseam and ordered the large. I chose the large based on the previous comments in here and the fact that I don't really plan on 'aggressive' single track and such. More so just to be my winter ride instead of putting studs on my Vaya and having the winter abuse on it as well.

    Just getting a little nervous about the 'large' vs 'medium' decision....

    Any more opinions/advice from any of you that have either and now have more miles on them??

    Thanks for all the input in here !

  140. #940
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    Im 5'10 with a 32.5 inseam and if I got a Large I would have hated it on my other fat bikes. To long of TT for me with out having to pull the stem way back and to much TT in my junk when not on the bike. I have a Medium Nashbar fat bike and a Medium dead eye monster SS and ordered the Medium Lurch with Bluto. The Medium frames with a 400MM post work great for my body. But a Large would be a no go just to big of a bike. But the same would go for a road bike or a MTB, I pick the size on what I am comfortable on. Aggressive trail riding or just touring Id still want a bike that fits . me. You might like it as to each is own but you might like a Medium over that Large. The bike has a longer wheel base so it will be great in the snow as it stands no matter what size you pick

    I think the main question is what are you riding now in terms of size? How does that feel? Have you ridden a 29er and if so do you ride a Medium or Large? If you ride a Medium and ever tried a Large and it felt to large then this is going to be the same case.

  141. #941
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    I'm with you, Dirty Thirty, same dimensions and I ordered a 20" today. It's the cockpit that I was concerned with. Too short on a medium for my tastes.

  142. #942
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    Me too Dirty Thirty. Measured Effective TT and Standover of my current 26"Mtb and the Large is the closest to those numbers. I am 1 1/2" taller and about 5lbs heavier than you. My inseam is a 32.5". I still think I made the right decision. However I am also anxiously awaiting delivery in a couple weeks. Time will tell.
    Ed

  143. #943
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    Spovegas,
    I am going to do the blue / black frame thing like you did. Where did you get a blue QR for the front hub??

    Thanks

  144. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Attachment 928175
    Got a chance to play in the snow again today. I'm really impressed with the traction of the snowshoes. Forgot my gauge, but think I was down around 5 psi, no burps on the split-tube setup. What a hoot.
    Curious on any info on the fenders in the pic. Thanks in advance.

  145. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    Spovegas,
    I am going to do the blue / black frame thing like you did. Where did you get a blue QR for the front hub??

    Thanks
    murph, that was actually the rear skewer.

    Here ya go.

  146. #946
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    Thanks.
    Like A-K notes, I threw a bit of carbon at it. Seat post, stem, riser bar, SRAM XX cassette and Selle Italia SLR saddle were parts I had left over from other builds. The carbon fork, Nextie 65mm rims, Sarma rear and Carver front hubs were the new purchases. I set the wheels up tubeless. Most of the weight drop came with swapping out the wheel set and the fork. The carbon fork did add a bit of height (about a half inch) to the front in comparison to the stock fork though not enough to frig up the handling. I essentially doubled the cost of the bike, but I still feel like it was a bargain compared to other brands offerings.

  147. #947
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyThirty View Post
    Ok guys, so close to the next batch shipping !!! The wait has been agonizing to be sure !!

    I'm 5' 10" 175 lbs 32" inseam and ordered the large. I chose the large based on the previous comments in here and the fact that I don't really plan on 'aggressive' single track and such. More so just to be my winter ride instead of putting studs on my Vaya and having the winter abuse on it as well.

    Just getting a little nervous about the 'large' vs 'medium' decision....

    Any more opinions/advice from any of you that have either and now have more miles on them??

    Thanks for all the input in here !
    For me, with your same dimensions, the Medium is too small. It the primary reason I'm getting a Large sturgis bullet, hopefully at the end of this month. The cockpit is just too small, too much seatpost, too long of a stem to make it fit. It works, but Large would be better. I put a Bluto on it, and it was ridiculous - just amplified how small it fits....for me, others will and have chimed in that the medium is the way to go. If I had the large frame, it would be Blutoized, probably carbon hooped up, etc. but it would just be putting good money after bad. Love the bike, shoulda gotta large.

  148. #948
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    Cold ride today!

    \
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  149. #949
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    I received an email from BD with my UPS tracking number. Pretty excited to see my new bike. South Central Alaska is currently experiencing a very low snow winter. It is terrible as far as snow machining goes but conditions are really good for winter biking. It's actually an epic winter in my area for winter biking. The last time I was really into winter biking I was using studded Nokia's that were 2.something wide and I thought those were awesome for the Anchorage area. When I moved back home to a maritime climate with tons more snow they just didn't provide the floatations I needed. I'm hoping the new bike will work better for our trails that don't recieve the traffic like those in Anchorage. My local trails never get packed down as hard as the ones in Anchorage and the Mat-Su valley.

    I'm inclined to believe that because our snow contains more moisture, it doesn't pack down as hard. I'm not sure what the science is behind it, just something I've observed.

  150. #950
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    shreddin on this LURCH for 3 months now and love it! It's a pig and I'm 255 on this steel bombma mama and it's the tits. Few upgrades...Hope SnoPro hub (b/c I thrashed the other one..torqued it to death)...raceface bars...grips...stem..and runnin stans in the tubes for ultra low pressure for rock crawlin' and such.

    cheers fat friends!


    The Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1692.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1674.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1679-480x640-.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1651.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1601.jpg
    k n o ll y r o c k s

  151. #951
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    The Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1480.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-phone-pics-01-05-15-1482.jpg
    k n o ll y r o c k s

  152. #952
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    Really excited as arrival day nears! What parks are those photos from Bizarro? How'd the Lurch handle the beach? Pics are great, keep 'em coming!
    Ed

  153. #953
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I've pretty much stopped contributing to this thread, because the place runs on emotion and there doesn't seem to be much appetite for any kind of objective analysis. Just couldn't let this one go, though.

    Sparkitekt, I am NOT in agreement that your problem is due to user error. I think that user operation of the modern quick release mechanism is pretty well understood and that most people get that the first course of action, if your wheel slips in the dropouts, is to tighten the nut and apply more force to the cam lever. Duh. I think it is a reasonable expectation that when you buy a complete bike, and adjust the nut such that a reasonable amount of force is applied to the cam lever to secure the wheel in place, it shouldn't slip.

    There are obviously some people that have had zero problem with slippage and I am happy that they haven't had to deal with this. But this thread is also full of reports from people who have experienced this problem, and I am one of them. At first, it was really bad, so I can totally relate to your level of frustration. I've spent a lot of time thinking about and working on the problem, and wondering why some have experienced the problem and others haven't. It's easy to jump to the conclusion that it's due to manufacturing variances (or user error, jeez, give me break), but I don't think that is the case here. I think it probably has more to do with combined body/bike mass. High mass hurts you in two ways: it increases your forward intertial force, and it provides you with the increased equal and opposite tractional force. I theorize that the people who haven't had to deal with the problem are on the lighter side of the combined mass spectrum.

    There are two components that contribute to the hub/axle's ability to resist the forces that want to move it in the dropout: the clamping force and the coefficient of friction between the mating parts. Without a sufficient coefficient of friction, even a super high clamping force won't be sufficient. (ian: this is engineering 0.o)

    Most of the suggestions so far have been with respect to increasing the clamping force and this is certainly important. The most significant opportunity for improvement here, IMHO, is the application of some light oil (Tri-Flow or the like), to the cam interface.

    The coefficient of friction issue is harder to tackle. Component design and materials of construction start to come into play here. The first thing I did was to replace the stock skewer with a high quality aftermarket skewer, which in my case was a Hope. This cost me about $20 + shipping.

    Here's a pic of the surfaces of the stock skewer parts that bear against the outside of the dropouts:

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    And here's a pic of those same surfaces on the Hope:

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    Both the stock and Hope parts have spent considerable amounts of time in service. The Hope's "teeth" are noticeably more sharp, both visibly and to the touch. Note also that the Hope set has a steel insert on the nut. Not sure why the other side doesn't, but my theory is that the design is optimized to resist the forces imposed by pedaling, which would act primarily on that side of the axle. In reality, I think the higher forces may end up being exerted on the braking side.

    Likewise, here are a coupla pics of the surfaces on the stock Lurch hub that bear against the inside of the dropouts. The NDS surface is knurled, but the teeth are worn pretty flat at this point. The DS bearing surface doesn't have any knurls.

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    By comparison, here are some pics of my Alfine hub that was obviously designed to live in sliding dropouts. Knurled surfaces on both sides. This hub has a lot of miles on it and, but the teeth are still fairly sharp and distinct, both to the eye and to the touch.

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    Sorry for the poor quality of these next pics - hard to get a the camera in position between dropouts that allows for focus. But the first is a pic of the inside of a dropout of my Karate Monkey that the Alfine lives in. Notice the "bite marks".

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is the inside of the two dropouts on the Lurch. I know these aren't great pics, but there isn't much in the way of bite marks. Much more evident of smooth surface against smooth surface, which is not ideal.

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    There's not a lot that can be done about the inside dropout interface, without spending quite a bit of money. Removal of paint may hinder more than help, since the stock skewer interfaces appear to be softer than the steel dropout material, and may have more "bite" in the paint than they do in the bare steel.

    In my experience, the $20 investment in the Hope (or equivalent quality) skewer will be the biggest help in reducing or eliminating the problem (don't forget to lube the cam, as you still want all the clamping force you can get). This fix, for me, hasn't totally eliminated the problem (I just moved the wheel in the dropouts during hard braking again a couple of weeks ago to the point where the tire sidewall knobs were hitting the chainstay, a sound/feeling I now know all too well), but it has reduced it to a very infrequent level that at this point is more of an annoyance than any kind of show stopper.

    Hope (pardon the pun) this helps.
    I greatly appreciate your response. You've been the most informative and non-judgmental person I've come across on here. Thanks again. I spoke to BD and they are working on sending me out a new skewer. Once I receive it, I'm gonna thoroughly reread your post and apply some of your knowledge on my issue.

  154. #954
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    FSA Comet, light, string, fair price, better BB than RaceFace, works great on 4" tires and it significantly reduces Q factor. I don't have a 5" tire handy, otherwise I could tell you more about clearance. Using the stock wheelset, with the chain in the largest sprocket (36) and the smallest chainring (22), the chain is no further inboard than the inside edge of the chainstay. I figure a 5" tire would clear fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bizarro View Post
    nice ride Maine!! yeah... would love a spec list on that lurch.. nice!

    My Blk Lurch is a pig... I love it.. Had to replace the rear Hub with a Hope Snopro... cracked in half... I'm a bit of a torque m monster on some things at 255. hehe..

    Anyway...after a few upgrades with the hub and tires...(put bud and Lou on...and raceface stem and bars...etc.) I'm looking for a good set of cranks?? Anyone have a good upgrade they're using?

    thank you!
    cheers!

  155. #955
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    Front Skewer in Blue??

    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    murph, that was actually the rear skewer.

    Here ya go.
    Thanks, what did you do for the front skewer??

  156. #956
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    What is everyone using for rear racks??

    I found the Axiom Fatliner DLX that runs under $60. Not bad compared to $120 plus everywhere else.

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  157. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    Thanks, what did you do for the front skewer??
    Just using the stock one. No slippage there, so no reason to change.

  158. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Just using the stock one. No slippage there, so no reason to change.
    True, but now your skewers look bruised...... black and blue!!

  159. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    What is everyone using for rear racks??

    I found the Axiom Fatliner DLX that runs under $60. Not bad compared to $120 plus everywhere else.
    I posted this earlier in the thread. Just ordered one yesterday to try out when my Lurch gets here.

    Rack from Banggod ~$26.00

  160. #960
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    Just took a $1300 flyer on a blue 18" with Bluto......if I hate it.....not much harm done....I can part it out lol......
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  161. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyThirty View Post
    I posted this earlier in the thread. Just ordered one yesterday to try out when my Lurch gets here.

    Rack from Banggod ~$26.00
    Let us know what you think of the Axiom Fatliner. I am on standby to order that one as well.

  162. #962
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bizarro View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bizarro are you in NJ by chance >_> That fat bike looks really familiar!


    Quote Originally Posted by River19 View Post
    Just took a $1300 flyer on a blue 18" with Bluto......if I hate it.....not much harm done....I can part it out lol......
    Im sure your going to love it Steel frame, nice groupset and fat bike!!! I have mine in gray ordered and all the parts waiting to be put on it!

  163. #963
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    If you currently have a BikesDirect bike and pre-ordered it, how long did it take to ship? BD gives a range for the current batch of Lurches of 9-16 Jan. I'm wondering if mine will arrive in time for a trip on 17th. I ordered it in early December. I'm guessing it's not likely.

  164. #964
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    After patiently waiting/saving for MANY years, I finally pulled the trigger on a gray 2015 Lurch FS Bluto. I have been out of the biking scene for way to long...I'm excited to jump back in with this bike. I've enjoyed reading through this tread, as it has been pivotal in helping me make my decision on which FB to purchase. Now, the waiting game!

  165. #965
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    From TX to NJ it takes me about 3 shipping days to get a bike from BD or Bikesisland. Not sure what state you are in but its possible if it ships out on the 9th you will have it for the weekend for sure.

    I have bought a few bikes from them and they ship out same day for the most part or next day early AM. But with the preorder the date is more of a guide line. My self am hoping that the Lurch Bluto ships on the 15th but it can be up till the 30th for it to leave the warehouse.

  166. #966
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    Quote Originally Posted by histrionicus View Post
    If you currently have a BikesDirect bike and pre-ordered it, how long did it take to ship? BD gives a range for the current batch of Lurches of 9-16 Jan. I'm wondering if mine will arrive in time for a trip on 17th. I ordered it in early December. I'm guessing it's not likely.
    I think a few of us are waiting for the shipment to go out tomorrow. I was looking at the UPS shipping order and changed the delivery option from signature to leave at front door ( you can search the forum on how to do this - took me 30 minutes). I see on the tracking info that it was leaving from Cycle Spectrum in Houston. I did a career in Houston and now I'm in the great white North. So I was familiar with the bike shop and know that it is out of business (at least at that location). So I called customer service and they confirmed my order being shipped tomorrow. I inquired about Cycle Spectrum and the operator said that she isn't quite sure about the Houston location since she is in Florida. She acknowledged that BD has numerous warehouses in Florida and Texas.
    I did find out some info why Cycle Spectrum shows up on the shipping info..... Not sure why there is a conflict of who really is the "founder" of bikes direct since their site has both names in different sections of the site. First, David Sander - he started the Cycle Spectrum bike chain and later Bikes Direct as told by an article here: VeloBusiness Then we have the "about us" page where it states the Dr. Mike Spratt is the CEO and fonder of Bikes Direct: Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes from Bikesdirect.com | About Us .

    Soooo there you go.... too much info.... my apologies!!!!!

  167. #967
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    Thanks for that, I appreciate your sleuthing.

  168. #968
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    Quote Originally Posted by histrionicus View Post
    Thanks for that, I appreciate your sleuthing.
    Mike also owns Cycle Spectrum, Bike Island, and (pretty sure) World Cycle.

    OK, I promise I will stop now.

  169. #969
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    So given that I have a Lurch on the way in the next few weeks......I'm thinking of picking up the following prior to it arriving:

    Hope skewer for the rear......

    Q Tubes....

    Ergons (I have them on all my bikes).....

    New seat clamp......probably a Woodman or Salsa like our other bikes....

    Jury is out on the seat.....I usually ride WTB Vs but we'll see

    I think the 120mm stem will probably be a wall hanger eventually but I will need to see how things fit.....

    Am I missing anything to address known issues?

    Thanks

    Steve
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  170. #970
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    Quote Originally Posted by River19 View Post
    So given that I have a Lurch on the way in the next few weeks......I'm thinking of picking up the following prior to it arriving:

    Hope skewer for the rear......

    Q Tubes....

    Ergons (I have them on all my bikes).....

    New seat clamp......probably a Woodman or Salsa like our other bikes....

    Jury is out on the seat.....I usually ride WTB Vs but we'll see

    I think the 120mm stem will probably be a wall hanger eventually but I will need to see how things fit.....

    Am I missing anything to address known issues?

    Thanks

    Steve
    Are you going with a particular color scheme??

  171. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    Are you going with a particular color scheme??
    Well, I went blue on the frame so I was thinking of using the red rim strips....and I always have a good amount of red on my bikes where possible...but I could also add white for a little patriotic thing.....

    What did you have in mind?
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  172. #972
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    Just was wondering how you were going to bling it. I'm doing the black frame because when the dings and scratches come, I can touch it up easily. Going to do the common blue highlights with the black. Hope they were right on the send out tomorrow??

  173. #973
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    Murph,
    Where in the great white north are you? I, too, am anxiously awaiting my Lurch shipment and live in TC, MI.

  174. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattinTC View Post
    Murph,
    Where in the great white north are you? I, too, am anxiously awaiting my Lurch shipment and live in TC, MI.
    Ah, wife is from Boyne City. I was raised in Muskegon. We are now in Bayfield, WI.

    Home

  175. #975
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    You will need to come up and ride along the ice caves.

    Stay at our place superiorhorizons.com
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-icecave.jpg  


  176. #976
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    Ill admit it...Im rrreally jealous of all you future blutofied lurch owners.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
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  177. #977
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    AAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!!

    ....tick tock....tick tock....

    The Lurch Lounge-lurch.jpg

  178. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyThirty View Post
    AAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!!

    ....tick tock....tick tock....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Same here!! No word or indication of shipment as stated from the shipping slip and the operator when I called. Minus one point on BD.

    I just bought up my UPS shipping ship info and the note that said "Ships on 1/9/14" is now gone. Might be time to call and find out what the "new" shipping date is going to be.

    Anyone get a shipping notification yet??

    Here is a possible reason:

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    Last edited by murph007; 01-10-2015 at 05:52 AM.

  179. #979
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    My emailed receipt said "shipped date: 1/16/2015". I ordered it on 12/31/14. Anyone else get this on their receipt?

  180. #980
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    I have 1/30/15...ordered 11/5/14

  181. #981
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    Maintenance update: After about 700 miles my rear hub was sounding pretty nasty and making loud clanking sounds when re-engaging. I pulled the free hub apart, very easy on this hub, and found grey sludge like stuff in there. I cleaned it out with a rag and all the palls looked good as well as the teeth inside the hub. Since I'm riding a lot in single digit temps I filled the hub with a full synthetic 5w/30 and put it back together. The seals must be good because nothing, not a drop, leaked out. Now she's nice and smooth sounding, but still will clank a bit when I'm abusive. Though the clank is much quieter now and not as frequent. Glad I got mine in Sept. , they were $899 and I think I had it in about a week.

  182. #982
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    Anyone upgraded the chain rings yet? I want some new ones and wondering if there is anything decent. I want to stay 2×10 but dont necessaraly want to buy a whole new crank. I've got a mason jar thats my bluto fund and dont want to take too much out of it. I'm getting pretty close to pull the trigger.

  183. #983
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattinTC View Post
    My emailed receipt said "shipped date: 1/16/2015". I ordered it on 12/31/14. Anyone else get this on their receipt?
    The Lurch Lounge-lurch2.jpg

    yep. On tracking it still says the 16th as previous picture shows. I get more communication on ordering stuff under 20 bucks....

    It'll get here.... it's kinda like when you have to go to the bathroom real bad... the closer you know you are getting to a bathroom the worse it is


  184. #984
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    The notes section on my UPS still shows a shipping date of Jan 9th. What's up with that??

    The Lurch Lounge-lurch-shipping.jpg

  185. #985
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    My crank cogs are smoked. My small one is unrideable.

    Any crank suggestions? Someone mentioned the FSA comet earlier, but can only find it in 170mm spacing.

  186. #986
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    My crank cogs are smoked. My small one is unrideable.

    Any crank suggestions? Someone mentioned the FSA comet earlier, but can only find it in 170mm spacing.
    What happened? Pics? Could you just buy new chainrings?
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  187. #987
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    My crank cogs are smoked. My small one is unrideable.

    Any crank suggestions? Someone mentioned the FSA comet earlier, but can only find it in 170mm spacing.
    Im using the sram x5. About $100 new on ebay.
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  188. #988
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    Yeah, I could buy rings but after reading the fat boy thread (same crank spec'd on low end build) i have no desire to keep it. Should also mention I hate sram shifting, so I'm hesitant to pick up an X5 or X9 crank. I had a spare aluminum 22t cog from a crank that got 1x converted so it's a good bandaid until I can get a crank. The bad gear looked like a saw blade. Strava says I have 225 miles on the bike.

  189. #989
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  190. #990
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    Wow... I have ~260 per strava and mine look brand new. I interesting. I did run a 1x10 when it was not so snowy out though. That ring looks great too.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  191. #991
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    Looks like the chain link size is not compatible with the chain ring or the chain got worn

  192. #992
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    Id just buy new rings, screw a whole new crankset. The ones that come on the lurch are not that different from the X5 srams.

    If you want some good cheap rings look up Vuelta chainrings. They sell them on Nashbar and you can get them cheap on sale. I picked up two 32T rings one for $10 returned but brand new and the other for under $18

    34T
    Vuelta 104/34 Mountain Bike Chainring

    32T
    Vuelta 104/32T Mountain Bike Chainring

    22T
    Vuelta 64/22 Tooth Mountain Bike Chainring

    24T
    Vuelta 64/24 Tooth Chainring

    I am going 1x10 on mine but I got the 32T for a 2x10 set up if 1x10 fails me in the winter as I dont wanna run the stock 36T and the other just for a backup ring.

  193. #993
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    Looks like the chain link size is not compatible with the chain ring or the chain got worn
    Chain measures .5 on my park gauge

    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    Id just buy new rings, screw a whole new crankset. The ones that come on the lurch are not that different from the X5 srams.

    If you want some good cheap rings look up Vuelta chainrings. They sell them on Nashbar and you can get them cheap on sale. I picked up two 32T rings one for $10 returned but brand new and the other for under $18

    34T
    Vuelta 104/34 Mountain Bike Chainring

    32T
    Vuelta 104/32T Mountain Bike Chainring

    22T
    Vuelta 64/22 Tooth Mountain Bike Chainring

    24T
    Vuelta 64/24 Tooth Chainring
    That's what I was looking for, thanks.

  194. #994
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    I was curious about where most bikes were manufactured and found this.
    inrng : who made your bike

    I thought it was pretty interesting to see how a number of the big name OEM's have their frames produced in the same Taiwanese factory.

  195. #995
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    The notes section on my UPS still shows a shipping date of Jan 9th. What's up with that??

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    WOW, Bikes Direct and shipping date change number 3.
    Those of you that thought your bike was going to ship on the 9th?? WRONG
    Ship on the 16th?? - WRONG!!!!

    Ship on the 20th??? Possibly?

    Quote - ."They are expected to be in by the 20th
    and we will email everyone and ship
    ship them as soon as they come in.
    If you have anymore questions, please let me know.
    Thanks again and have a great weekend,
    Karla "

  196. #996
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph007 View Post
    WOW, Bikes Direct and shipping date change number 3.
    Those of you that thought your bike was going to ship on the 9th?? WRONG
    Ship on the 16th?? - WRONG!!!!

    Ship on the 20th??? Possibly?

    Quote - ."They are expected to be in by the 20th
    and we will email everyone and ship
    ship them as soon as they come in.
    If you have anymore questions, please let me know.
    Thanks again and have a great weekend,
    Karla "
    While that sucks... it does happen, when it ships it ships nothing you can do. Really you cant go wrong with the bike so if you have to wait a bit longer so be it. Mine says 15-30th and while I hope its the 15th I wouldnt be shocked if they shipped them out at the end of the month. Who knows the reason but its a risk you take pre ordering anything.

  197. #997
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    While that sucks... it does happen, when it ships it ships nothing you can do. Really you cant go wrong with the bike so if you have to wait a bit longer so be it. Mine says 15-30th and while I hope its the 15th I wouldnt be shocked if they shipped them out at the end of the month. Who knows the reason but its a risk you take pre ordering anything.
    So true!! She did email me back and stated that the Lurch bikes "should" be going out by the 16th instead of the 20th. But like you say, who knows with the pre-orders. Sad thing is that we get planning events betting on the dates given are accurate.

    Looking at dropping the order (which one can do) and buying a Trek Farley 6. My LBS has a pretty decent deal on one. Decisions, decisions......

  198. #998
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    Well IF it was me Id just stick with the lurch, I would not be happy with the frame material vs getting the bike faster. While it would fit my needs or wants in the end I want the bike I am going to love. If the Trek Farley will fill your needs Id go for it. I just know from personal XP I built an aluminum SS a while back and after a month of having it I ended up just building a steel frame SS and loving it. Should have just done it the 1st time but I was impatient and needed to just fill the void

  199. #999
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    It sucks, yes... ...but let's remember what we agreed to...

    The Lurch Lounge-screenshot_2015-01-12-16-34-38_1_zpsn2ourznj.jpg

  200. #1000
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    Well IF it was me Id just stick with the lurch, I would not be happy with the frame material vs getting the bike faster. While it would fit my needs or wants in the end I want the bike I am going to love. If the Trek Farley will fill your needs Id go for it. I just know from personal XP I built an aluminum SS a while back and after a month of having it I ended up just building a steel frame SS and loving it. Should have just done it the 1st time but I was impatient and needed to just fill the void
    That's what I need to hear. Need to stay the course!!!

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