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  1. #601
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I'm not sure if it's my technique or body physiology but even at 75mm the handling gets quite squirrely on climbs. I've got a 60mm stem but I sacrifice too much stability when I use it. (Meaning it causes me to consistently not clear stuff I normally could.)

    With the dropper I concur in some regards (trying to enjoy the ride, not setting KOM's) but there's an element of pure control and safety that takes joy away from the ride when the trail gets so steep that you literally cannot stop. If my seat post is fully extended for my 36" inseam it begins to feel quite unsafe. So as it is now there are mandatory "dropper stops" where I do the good old fashioned dismount, drop the seat with the QR then descend. Long story short, I hear ya but a dropper is on my short list.

  2. #602
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    I got my Lurch about a week and a half ago and so far my main complaint is the seat post clamp. I can not manage to get it tight enough. That and the cables rub the head tube but that was easiliy fixed with some good tape.

  3. #603
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    Took a little detour from my normal commute route to work.

    Doing the Lurch Lambeau Leap!!
    The Lurch Lounge-image.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-image1.jpg
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  4. #604
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    ^^^righteous!!!^^^

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by nlambert View Post
    I got my Lurch about a week and a half ago and so far my main complaint is the seat post clamp. I can not manage to get it tight enough. That and the cables rub the head tube but that was easiliy fixed with some good tape.
    Lube the little cam block on the clamp QR. that will help increase the clamping force and keep you from bending the handle.

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    Doing the Lurch Lambeau Leap!!
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    Great photo.

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by nlambert View Post
    I got my Lurch about a week and a half ago and so far my main complaint is the seat post clamp. I can not manage to get it tight enough. That and the cables rub the head tube but that was easiliy fixed with some good tape.
    I'm not happy with the seat clamp either. It helped to clean whatever grease was in the seat tube out, but the post still migrates down. I haven't been able to find a decent replacement in a 29.8mm size, but from doing some searches, it sounds like most people needing a specific 29.8mm clamp just size up to a 30.0 without issue, frame paint taking up the last .2mm from tubing o.d. specs. I've got Salsa flip-lock's on my other bikes and never have to think about them. In fact, they clamp tight enough to hinder operation of a KS dropper if I'm not careful. I'll see if I can find one in town tomorrow and report back on fit and function.

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I'm not happy with the seat clamp either. It helped to clean whatever grease was in the seat tube out, but the post still migrates down. I haven't been able to find a decent replacement in a 29.8mm size
    I experienced the same issue with the stock seatpost clamp. I replaced it with a Thomson. Though it isn't a quick release, it is 29.8mm and has never slipped.

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2666.jpg

  9. #609
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    Got my cheap carbon and green stuff installed. Much love for this thing.

    Also, this picture illustrates why getting rid of the fatbike tubes saves like 360g per wheel. The small tube is a 29er 2-3" tube.










  10. #610
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    How does it ride with the 29 3" tubes?? Nice looking carbon, feel any different?
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  11. #611
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    Got my Lurch mods done last week. I replaced the stock crank with a Surly Moonlander I scored through my old LBS who had one as a takeoff that he discounted to me. I omitted the 2.5mm crank side spacer. because of that I had to the chamfer the splines slightly on inside of the crank arm to preload the bearing. This reduced the Q to 110mm which is 26mm less than I measured on the stock crank. It feels much better! The Moon lander crank is a tad lighter than the stock crank. The chain clearance in granny gear is 13mm to the tire.



    I installed O-Eight sealed cartridge bearing BMX pedals($44). Very low profile and large platform. Works good wearing Chuck Taylors!

    From the spare parts box. I fished out a well broken in Brooks B-17 saddle, a forgotten Jandd frame bag along with some WTB barends and grips from around 1986. I also shortened the bars to 620mm which is more in line with all my other bikes. Increases steering effort but not enough to affect the handling adversely for me.

    I'm happy with everything else .Total out of pocket cost was just under $250.




  12. #612
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    Help with 170 mm crank arms

    Hi, I would like to put 170mm crank arms on my Lurch. Not interested in new bb or chainrings. Can someone steer me in the right direction???

    Jim

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    How does it ride with the 29 3" tubes?? Nice looking carbon, feel any different?
    Thanks. The gyroscopic effect of the wheels was reduced quite a bit which made the bike feel more nimble but less stable at super slow speeds. I like the change as the bike is easier to ride at higher speeds.

    If you've never ridden carbon seatposts/handle bars I wouldn't ever try. You'll be ruined and only want to ride them from here on out.

    This bar is a flat 720mm that cost me $30 shipped but took a month to get here. Compared to my enve flat 740 bar on my xc bike, the cheap one weighs 40 grams more, is more flexy and isn't finished as well. It's a great fit for the lurch.

    The seat post is similar, in flex and carbon quality. Great fit for the lurch, but it took 3 weeks to get. I definitely recommend both.

  14. #614
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    Forgot to say, switching the saddle and seat post saved 214 grams, handle bars saved 100 grams and tubes saved 340 grams per wheel (680 total). Saved a few lbs for $60 in carbon, $40 seat and $16 in tubes. Overall very happy.

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Forgot to say, switching the saddle and seat post saved 214 grams, handle bars saved 100 grams and tubes saved 340 grams per wheel (680 total). Saved a few lbs for $60 in carbon, $40 seat and $16 in tubes. Overall very happy.
    Thanks for the info! I may have to try the smaller tubes!

    I forgot to say, I have some on the way as well! Im going with seatpost, handlebars and stem!
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  16. #616
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    Mello Yello, now... CARBONATED!

    The Lurch Lounge-pa110456.jpg

    Got my 'Dozers mounted...

    The Lurch Lounge-pa110454.jpg

    And added some flashy accents!

    The Lurch Lounge-pa110445.jpg

  17. #617
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    Nice bar, what one is that one? I might have to switch to a riser bar, I can't get enough bar height where this fork is trimmed. Would rather do a carbon fork and leave the steerer on the long side.

  18. #618
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    Also forgot to mention, I'm not using the 29er tubes in my fatbike. I'm using 26x3" specialized normal tubes. That was just what was handy for pictures

  19. #619
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    It's a KORE bar, similar to this one:

    Kore Carbon Rizer BAR 660mm | eBay

    It came on a semi-complete GT Zaskar I bought a couple years ago and never finished off. Frame and all the carbon and NOS XTR goodies were too nice for me to ride! Finally decided it was time to get off the pot and do something with them, at least the carbon... So I've got the KORE bar, stem and I-Beam seatpost blinging out my Lurch.

  20. #620
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    What are the flashy thingies in the photo's above?

  21. #621
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    I just bought a riser, incase my shorter stem isn't enough.

  22. #622
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    Lined the rim strips with silvery retro-reflective tape and wrapped some yellow reflecty stuff I had lying around on various parts of the frame.

  23. #623
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    1111111111111

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    1111111111111

    Definitely

  25. #625
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    people still use bar ends? every once in a while a customer comes in and asks me where the bar ends are. i can't help but make a bit of a smart a$$ comment.

    rog

  26. #626
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    I've thought about putting a small set on with some ergo grips for long rides. They're cheap because they aren't fashionable.

  27. #627
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    people still use bar ends? every once in a while a customer comes in and asks me where the bar ends are. i can't help but make a bit of a smart a$$ comment.
    Haha! I love it when service-types make smart a$$ comments to me. Gives me a big smile when I go spend my money elsewhere. :-)

  28. #628
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    :-)
    baker

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    Mello Yello, now... CARBONATED!

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    What size length stem is that? I can't tell by BD's spec sheet what size stems come from the factory.

    Thanks!

  30. #630
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    Stock stem length is size dependant, my large came with a 110. (Have a 90 on order). Think xl is 120, med is 100. It lists it on bikes direct spec sheet

  31. #631
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    Lovein the LURCH!



    Doesn't get much phat-er than Bend, Oregon!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-dsc01005.jpg  

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  32. #632
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    In case you were wondering about the durability of the Lurch.... came up short on a double...

    No damage.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIlS...ature=youtu.be
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  33. #633
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    No damage.
    If that was you casually strolling toward the bike when it settled, I'm impressed. I think I would've at least taken a knee after that one!

  34. #634
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    Oregon looks unreal nice.

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    If that was you casually strolling toward the bike when it settled, I'm impressed. I think I would've at least taken a knee after that one!
    I went over and ended up on my feet. Yes. I am the one in red.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by cousinit View Post


    Doesn't get much phat-er than Bend, Oregon!
    Fabulous photography.

    Also love the Jones Loop.

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    Haha! I love it when service-types make smart a$$ comments to me. Gives me a big smile when I go spend my money elsewhere. :-)
    Nashbar, Performance, PricePoint and Bikes Direct love it too.

  38. #638
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    I've been running the Q-tubes 2.4-2.7 in my rear tire lately. It's only been a couple of weeks. However, the tube blew out over the weekend. I wasn't doing anything aggressive at the time, just rounding a gentle corner. I weigh 175 with full gear and CamelBak. With winter coming, I just put the stock tube back in. The front tire is holding air very well with the gorilla tape tubeless setup.

    I think the Q-tubes are too thin and too small to hold with the aggressive trails I ride, especially in the rear tire. But it may have just been a fluke.
    Nathan

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barheet View Post
    I've been running the Q-tubes 2.4-2.7 in my rear tire lately. It's only been a couple of weeks. However, the tube blew out over the weekend. I wasn't doing anything aggressive at the time, just rounding a gentle corner. I weigh 175 with full gear and CamelBak. With winter coming, I just put the stock tube back in. The front tire is holding air very well with the gorilla tape tubeless setup.

    I think the Q-tubes are too thin and too small to hold with the aggressive trails I ride, especially in the rear tire. But it may have just been a fluke.
    Regular or Superlites?

  40. #640
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    I'v ealways run skinny tubes for fat tires and never had a failure. I have had a fat tube failure...

    You don't need to run superlights, just get the DH/FR tube, it's 250gm, less than half of the stocker.

  41. #641
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    That was pretty clean.

    I'll bet you're glad those trees stayed out of your way

    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    I went over and ended up on my feet. Yes. I am the one in red.

  42. #642
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    Hey All,

    Thanks for everyone's contribution to a great thread. For those who are interested in buying the Lurch FS with the Bluto fork but still interested in running rigid sometimes (like me), I confirmed that BD will be selling Lurch forks by themselves starting in January. That sold me on waiting for the FS to ship in late January if it means that I can run rigid in the snow and run the Bluto the rest of the year. It's going to be a long winter until it arrives.

    Happy Riding!

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homegrown77 View Post
    Hey All,

    Thanks for everyone's contribution to a great thread. For those who are interested in buying the Lurch FS with the Bluto fork but still interested in running rigid sometimes (like me), I confirmed that BD will be selling Lurch forks by themselves starting in January. That sold me on waiting for the FS to ship in late January if it means that I can run rigid in the snow and run the Bluto the rest of the year. It's going to be a long winter until it arrives.

    Happy Riding!
    Thanks for the info. I sent an email asking if they will be offering a Bluto to those of us that purchased the original Lurch. No response. Do you have any info?

  44. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph View Post
    Thanks for the info. I sent an email asking if they will be offering a Bluto to those of us that purchased the original Lurch. No response. Do you have any info?
    My guess is that they won't offer it as the original Lurch is not "designed" to accept a Bluto...so why would they offer an option for something that doesn't technically fit? AND...they would rather you just buy a new Bluto FS from them with the curved downtube and the bluto already installed.

  45. #645
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    I would agree with neons97. I asked BD directly about buying a standard Lurch along with a Bluto when I asked about buying a rigid fork separate. The response did not mention the option of buying the Bluto. They are not a RS retailer so they may not have the rights to anyway.

  46. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post
    My guess is that they won't offer it as the original Lurch is not "designed" to accept a Bluto...so why would they offer an option for something that doesn't technically fit? AND...they would rather you just buy a new Bluto FS from them with the curved downtube and the bluto already installed.
    Excellent points. I've got a large, I'd be willing to take the chance that it would fit.

  47. #647
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    I also have a large. I was planning on trying it this next summer.

  48. #648
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    thanx rex, yup, Jones loop, worth every penny!

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywardx View Post
    Regular or Superlites?
    Superlites.
    Nathan

  50. #650
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    Bluto Update:

    I finally got a response from Novatec USA:

    "Hi Ben,

    You do need a conversion kit to change to 15mm or 20mm thru axles. You need to pull out the QR end caps (if they are to tight use the QR and push them out from the opposite side) and the new adapters push into the the hub. The cost for the adapters is $18.00"

    Total cost for ends and shipping was $25.

    I am going to ask BikesDirect to cover the cost as these parts were supposed to be included with the bike.

  51. #651
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    Here's the response I got from BD;

    "Hello,
    I am sorry but we were unaware that the factory did not included the spacers for the 15mm thru axle when we created the listing but we have spacers on the way and as soon as they arrive I will send you a pair and email you tracking.
    Best regards,
    Larry @ Bikes Direct"

  52. #652
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Here's the response I got from BD;

    "Hello,
    I am sorry but we were unaware that the factory did not included the spacers for the 15mm thru axle when we created the listing but we have spacers on the way and as soon as they arrive I will send you a pair and email you tracking.
    Best regards,
    Larry @ Bikes Direct"
    Does that mean they'll be sending them out to all Lurch purchasers?

  53. #653
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    I honestly don't know. I just made my case that I have a Bluto I can't use right now, and this is the response I got. They are trying to make it right, and did refund for missing pedals, so I can't fault them in any way - they've responded to every issued I've had.

    Luckily, the more miles I get on the Lurch, the less and less likely it is that I'm going to put suspension on it. The boss wanted to ride the Lurch this weekend, so the Yeti 575 came out of mothballs for a ride. All the suspension bob and messing with lockout levers and switching from climb to downhill mode, etc, etc, drove me nuts. I couldn't wait to get back on the Lurch. Even the downhill wasn't that much fun. When the suspension was most active, I felt disconnected from the trail, when it didn't, I lost traction because even 2.5 tires seems silly skinny these days. Going fat's ruined me for anything but. Now a carbon fatty w/carbon hoops and Bluto is another story altogether.

  54. #654
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    With the gravity FS coming its over....motobecane just did what big names from specialized, trek, etc couldn't do. Pretty sure all eyes are on full suspension setups right now

  55. #655
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    Same situation here, they refunded me the cost of purchasing the hub ends from Novatec.

    I might have my ends this weekend, in which case I'll swap out for the Bluto, feedback to follow

    Unlike Watermonkey, I can't wait to get front suspension, fast trail riding with big tires is really bouncy, so a little give in the front end will allow me to run a higher tire pressure without getting hammered.

    I have no doubt that in time I will have an FS fatty, I think it would be a great compliment to my "skinny" FS.

    Right now I have my eyes on building a set of midfat 650b wheels for the Lurch, gonna saddle up with some Vee Rubber Trax Fatty 3.25"

    For the techies out there: What are the odds that 190 rear hub spacing will be the norm for FS Fatties? Is 170mm more likely due the realities of building an FS fatty and only being able to squeeze in a 4" tire?

  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Same situation here, they refunded me the cost of purchasing the hub ends from Novatec.

    I might have my ends this weekend, in which case I'll swap out for the Bluto, feedback to follow

    Unlike Watermonkey, I can't wait to get front suspension, fast trail riding with big tires is really bouncy, so I little give in the front end will allow me to run a higher tire pressure without getting hammered.

    I have no doubt that in time I will have an FS fatty, I think it would be a great compliment to my "skinny" FS.

    Right now I have my eyes on building a set of midfat 650b wheels for the Lurch, gonna saddle up with some Vee Rubber Trax Fatty 3.25"

    For the techies out there: What are the odds that 190 rear hub spacing will be the norm for FS Fatties? Is 170mm more likely due the realities of building an FS fatty and only being able to squeeze in a 4" tire?
    Sorry if this is a dumb question....why 650B and not 26 or 29. I'm interested in purchasing a 29+ or maybe converting my Lurch and saving up for a carbon fatty.

  57. #657
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    Not a dumb question, it's the same question I had until someone pointed out that a taller or shorter tire diameter would change the ride height and or cause clearance issues. The 650b+ tires are about the same diameter as a 26 x 4" tire.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph View Post
    Sorry if this is a dumb question....why 650B and not 26 or 29. I'm interested in purchasing a 29+ or maybe converting my Lurch and saving up for a carbon fatty.

  58. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I honestly don't know. I just made my case that I have a Bluto I can't use right now, and this is the response I got. They are trying to make it right, and did refund for missing pedals, so I can't fault them in any way - they've responded to every issued I've had.

    Luckily, the more miles I get on the Lurch, the less and less likely it is that I'm going to put suspension on it. The boss wanted to ride the Lurch this weekend, so the Yeti 575 came out of mothballs for a ride. All the suspension bob and messing with lockout levers and switching from climb to downhill mode, etc, etc, drove me nuts. I couldn't wait to get back on the Lurch. Even the downhill wasn't that much fun. When the suspension was most active, I felt disconnected from the trail, when it didn't, I lost traction because even 2.5 tires seems silly skinny these days. Going fat's ruined me for anything but. Now a carbon fatty w/carbon hoops and Bluto is another story altogether.
    I'm now thinking the same thing. Instead of a Bluto, adding a stiffer carbon fork. Switching the tires to Nards or maybe, like NurseBen converting to 650B or 29+ and saving for a carbon fatty.

  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Not a dumb question, it's the same question I had until someone pointed out that a taller or shorter tire diameter would change the ride height and or cause clearance issues. The 650b+ tires are about the same diameter as a 26 x 4" tire.
    Thanks! I'll be watching for your posts on the changes.

  60. #660
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    Got about 90 miles on it now, put a 90mm stem on it and that was the trick for fitment for me. I was able to ride for 22miles today, normally I could only do 15 or so before my knees would start killing me. This thing works great on loose stuff, like the fallen leaves this time of year.






  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homegrown77 View Post
    Hey All,

    Thanks for everyone's contribution to a great thread. For those who are interested in buying the Lurch FS with the Bluto fork but still interested in running rigid sometimes (like me), I confirmed that BD will be selling Lurch forks by themselves starting in January. That sold me on waiting for the FS to ship in late January if it means that I can run rigid in the snow and run the Bluto the rest of the year. It's going to be a long winter until it arrives.

    Happy Riding!
    Looks like the lurch rigid fork is a 9mm QR, but the Lurch FS with Bluto is a 15mm. I am assuming you would need to run a 9mm with a conversion from 15mm to 9mm to run the rigid lurch fork. Do you know if they are going to make the sturgis/night train rigid forks available? I would much rather run a 15mm thru on the rigid than switch to a 9mm given my 240lb frame.
    Get out of the gutter and onto the mountain top.

  62. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post

    Luckily, the more miles I get on the Lurch, the less and less likely it is that I'm going to put suspension on it. The boss wanted to ride the Lurch this weekend, so the Yeti 575 came out of mothballs for a ride. All the suspension bob and messing with lockout levers and switching from climb to downhill mode, etc, etc, drove me nuts. I couldn't wait to get back on the Lurch. Even the downhill wasn't that much fun. When the suspension was most active, I felt disconnected from the trail, when it didn't, I lost traction because even 2.5 tires seems silly skinny these days. Going fat's ruined me for anything but.
    Yup

    Sussy bob, levers, stuff, more stuff, trail disconnect, boinga boinga.......

    With the right air pressure you really shouldn't be getting "bounced around" on the rigid fatty. I sure don't with 9.5 front and 9.25 rear.

    rog

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    Got the Novatec hub ends, they were the wrong ones, so now I'm waiting on a response from Novatec...

    I just ordered some Origin 8 fat bike parts to build a second wheel set: 190/150 hubs and 60mm rims. Once I get them built I'll report back with weights and such... and how they work with skinny 3-4" tires

    Hey UtahMike, that looks like Pipeline. Both my kids are the U. Do you ever ride at Antelope during the winters? I would think that'd be a great place to fat bike when the hills have snow/mud.

  64. #664
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    Again, that sucks. Was really hoping to see your Bluto'd up Lurch on here. Did you put the angleset in yet with the stock fork? Curious if slackening out the fork angle changed the ride much.

  65. #665
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    So how tall are you and what's your inseam? Wanting to order but this info on sizing is a bit confusing huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by ElectronJunk View Post
    Attachment 921142

    Put 12 miles of single track on the Lurch yesterday after getting it all setup the way I like and tensioning the spokes, and torquing all fasteners. This thing actually weighs 3 pounds less than my Motobecane Fantom Elite DS, which was a welcome surprise. Glad I got the 20" frame as the standover height is actually 30.5" compared to Bikesdirect 32" listing. Rolls very easy and climbs sandy rocky hills with ease. Very Pleased.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nocobandit View Post
    So how tall are you and what's your inseam? Wanting to order but this info on sizing is a bit confusing huh?
    Roughly 31" inseam. Compared the BD specs to standover/top tube measurements on my other bikes and went with the 20. I tend to fall between med and large sizes and prefer to size up. Changed out the stem to 80mm adjustable with slight angle up. Fits perfectly.

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Got the Novatec hub ends, they were the wrong ones, so now I'm waiting on a response from Novatec...

    I just ordered some Origin 8 fat bike parts to build a second wheel set: 190/150 hubs and 60mm rims. Once I get them built I'll report back with weights and such... and how they work with skinny 3-4" tires

    Hey UtahMike, that looks like Pipeline. Both my kids are the U. Do you ever ride at Antelope during the winters? I would think that'd be a great place to fat bike when the hills have snow/mud.
    It's actually the foothills of the east side of alpine, the trails lead up to Lambert canyon.

    I generally ride there as the trail is accessible riding my bike from my garage.

    I also ride corner quite a bit, since its on my way home from work.

    I've ridden pipeline, its up Millcreek canyon.

    The trail by the U is Bonneville shoreline. I've ridden up there, also ridden bobsled which is quite fun.

    Where is antelope? Like antelope island? I'm planning on riding Bonneville shoreline towards draper in the winter, or even Lambert depending on when I get a new house.

  68. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Again, that sucks. Was really hoping to see your Bluto'd up Lurch on here. Did you put the angleset in yet with the stock fork? Curious if slackening out the fork angle changed the ride much.
    Yeah, I'm already running the Angleset at 0deg, the slack is just from the ~10mm extra stack on the bottom; another 10mm on top as well.

    I really didn't notice the difference, it is a real quick bike (relatively speaking) with the narrower tires, short stem/wide bars, and the wheel all the way forward.

    If I don't get a response about the hub ends by this weekend, I'm going to cut down the ends I received from Novatec and use them as "spacers", which should work well enough in the short term.

  69. #669
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    What size frame you running, ben? Thinking about blutoing the lurch and building a Chinese fatty, them moving the bluto to the chinese frame.

  70. #670
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    A new fun headset cap for the lurch! The Lurch Lounge-img_1845.jpg

    Why not put the heavy one on top?!?
    The Lurch Lounge-img_1847.jpg
    2012 Pure Fix SS
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  71. #671
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Has anyone felt any sort of play from the fork under hard braking? It feels to me like there's like a slight pop in the headset when I hit the front brake too hard.

  72. #672
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I had to REALLY crank down on the top cap to eliminate the slop. First try I didn't snug it down enough and could still feel the slop...

  73. #673
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    I generally check all my nuts and bolts every other week or so to make sure nothing is working its way loose. It definitely sounds like you have a loose top cap. Make sure to also check rotor bolts and brake caliper bolts. You really don't want those coming loose.
    Nathan

  74. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barheet View Post
    I generally check all my nuts and bolts every other week or so to make sure nothing is working its way loose. It definitely sounds like you have a loose top cap. Make sure to also check rotor bolts and brake caliper bolts. You really don't want those coming loose.
    Good advice, but just to clarify. It doesn't mater if the top cap is loose as long as the stem clamp is tight. You can actually run without a top cap in place with no ill effects. The top cap and its bolt, preload the head bearing, the stem clamp locks it in place.

    Check your brake caliper bolts like Barheet suggests, then loosen the stem clamp then tighten the top cap. You can rock the bike against a locked front brake to ensure you have taken all the play out of the head bearings. Then tighten the stem clamp.

  75. #675
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    but don't forget to turn/rock your bars/stem side to side after loosening the stem clamping bolts to make sure that things are freed up before tightening top cap bolt down to bring things together.

    rog

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    What size frame you running, ben? Thinking about blutoing the lurch and building a Chinese fatty, them moving the bluto to the chinese frame.
    18"

    Chinese fatty, as in a carbon frame?

    I'm holding out for an FS fatty/crossover mid fat, two wheel sets for four season use, 2 x 10, sometyhing to compliment my FS daily driver.

    Stil no word from Novatec, I'm tired of waiting, so I'll be cutting down the ends this weekend to use as "spacers". I also have some wheel parts coming a mid fat build, going for the Trax Fattys

  77. #677
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    Yeah, as in carbon frame. I'm riding a 20" and hope shims won't be necessary to fit the lurch.

    I'm definitely a 2x10 guy. Ran my xc bike 1x10 for 600 miles or so and found it wasn't for me.

    I think a bluto'd carbon frame bike with 4" tires would be more than sufficent for what I ride 90% of the time. Would like to be as close to 25lbs as I could.

  78. #678
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    hello Lurchers! Hit the " Buy Me Now but my wife might kill me" button the other night at 1am on BD for the lurch and can't wait to see it! Enroute and here in a few days! Got one of the last ones.. (yeah right) blk...22 inch. I wanted orange b/c I already have a blk knolly and green one too so I wanted more flare but no big deal... I think the pics you guy have up are great of every color. I'll have a paint party in the future for the frame if needed to fulfill my color fetish.

    Sooo.. I savvy to a point but this might be a stupid question.. what size seat collar is it again? I want to buy a better one b/c of no slippage but getting a little confused on order. I'm about 260+ w/ gear and don't want to fool around with that part among other stuff.
    Also is everyone tubeless? I was def going to go Tubeless but just might get some tubes and fill those puppies up with 8-10 oz of stans in the tubes for low low pressure.. some of you are doing that right? Sounds simpler to me.

    THanks guys!
    cheers!
    k n o ll y r o c k s

  79. #679
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bizarro View Post
    hello Lurchers! Hit the " Buy Me Now but my wife might kill me" button the other night at 1am on BD for the lurch and can't wait to see it! Enroute and here in a few days! Got one of the last ones.. (yeah right) blk...22 inch. I wanted orange b/c I already have a blk knolly and green one too so I wanted more flare but no big deal... I think the pics you guy have up are great of every color. I'll have a paint party in the future for the frame if needed to fulfill my color fetish.

    Sooo.. I savvy to a point but this might be a stupid question.. what size seat collar is it again? I want to buy a better one b/c of no slippage but getting a little confused on order. I'm about 260+ w/ gear and don't want to fool around with that part among other stuff.
    Also is everyone tubeless? I was def going to go Tubeless but just might get some tubes and fill those puppies up with 8-10 oz of stans in the tubes for low low pressure.. some of you are doing that right? Sounds simpler to me.

    THanks guys!
    cheers!
    If the stock seat collar slips, there's likelu something else wrong such as post or frame tolerance issues. But do it for bling/customization/save a few grams (literally).

    Few have luck going tubeless with the weinnmann hl80 single wall rims as they are not designed to be tubeless. I've read ghetto tubeless is my painful. But full tubeless will require so much building up of the centre channel that any weight savings is eaten up by that material. Go ghetto or super light tube and stans.

  80. #680
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    I haven't had an issue with my seatpost.

    Tubeless is garbage with these wheels, I tried for over 4 hrs to get them to seal and I couldn't get them. Just get some lightweight, normal 26" tubes and call it a day. Using specialized 26x2-3" tubes without sealant. No issues so far.

  81. #681
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I did succeed w/ ghetto tubeless using QTubes 24x2.4-2.75. After adding 6oz of Stan's to each tire I still saved over 300g / tire. I did have to remove the valve core and inflate with a compressor as well as wrap a 29" tube around the tire to help it seat... But after doing those things it really was easy!

  82. #682
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    Saw this post and picked up some Specialized 26x2-3" tubes. Seemed to have worked. Tires appear narrower/taller, can't wait to try tomorrow. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    I haven't had an issue with my seatpost.

    Tubeless is garbage with these wheels, I tried for over 4 hrs to get them to seal and I couldn't get them. Just get some lightweight, normal 26" tubes and call it a day. Using specialized 26x2-3" tubes without sealant. No issues so far.

  83. #683
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    You'll be happy. Saved 360 grams per wheel if I remember correctly. Super slow speed stability is compromised, but the bike becomes much more lively and handles much better at speed.

    I have one underseat pack I use for both my bikes (29er xc, lurch) and I like being able to keep one spare tube for both bikes.

    I had a hard time getting the specalized tubes to get the beads to seat under 20psi. I inflated them overnight and let the tubes stretch, then deflated and lubed the beads with soapy water and re-inflated. They then seated correctly and I dropped the pressure to where I ride (8psi rear, 9-10 front) and haven't had any issues so far. No where else have I been able to drop 1.5lbs on a bike by replacing $18 worth of tubes.

  84. #684
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    good on ya mike!

    rog

  85. #685
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    We got Bluto!

    What a difference, more control, more comfort, more fun :-)

    Pics on Monday, mtbr doesn't likely phone.

    5mm clearance between the lockout lever and the downtube running zero degree Cane Creek Angleset with external cup (~56mm id)

  86. #686
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    We got Bluto!

    What a difference, more control, more comfort, more fun :-)

    Pics on Monday, mtbr doesn't likely phone.

    5mm clearance between the lockout lever and the downtube running zero degree Cane Creek Angleset with external cup (~56mm id)
    so this is your 1st ever front suspension fork as well? crazy but i thought these boingo forks have been available for like 25 years!

    rog

  87. #687
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    Not my first suspension by a long shot, but it's my first fatty suspension :-)

  88. #688
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    So jealous..

  89. #689
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    Bluto Yes!!!! Pics...now....what do I need to order??? Where did you order from. What size lurch you gotz???

  90. #690
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    Anyone with a 22" frame that can post up real world standover measurements? In between the 20" and the 22" - leaning toward the 22" as my ETT lengths are normally 24.5".

  91. #691
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    Cane Creek 0deg/-1.5deg Angle Set (~56mm External Cup)
    One One Floaters 26 x 4"
    Bluto 80mm Fork
    Lurch 18" Frame

    I believe the combination of stack and fork extension decreased HA by ~ 1 deg, not enough to notice a reduction on agility, possibly a little more "floppiness" when climbing, but consider that I am running the wheel all the way forward in the drops outs.

    Overall the ride is pretty durn good. I was able to clean a loose section of goatheads last night that has confounded me on my FS 650, I think it is more due to being on fat tires that have more surface area, but the fork helps me keep the wheel on the ground.

    The night before I cleaned a steep double track that was a walk without the fork, this was a standing climb where I locked out the fork, I credit the slight give in the fork as allowing me to keep the bike on a straight track.

    But it was on the down that having a fork on a fat bike really shines. I cooked a section of downhill, jumping rocks and roots the whole way, literally dropped my dogs like they were walking; one of them is usually able to keep pace. It makes me dream of having an FS fatty

    The Lurch Lounge-kimg0642.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-kimg0644.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-kimg0643.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-kimg0641.jpg

  92. #692
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    Just for perspective: My favorite hard tail of all time is the Kona Honzo/Taro, which I still have; the Taro is my wife's, she stole it

    When I get my KHS 6500 (650b FS) I was looking for a ful suspension that felt like my Honzo, but was more agile and more comfortable for long days in the saddle. The KHS does the job, but nothing rides like a hard tail.

    My goal with the Lurch is to have a bike that crosses over for rides that are muddy, snowy, sandy, rocky, or where I just want a big bruiser bike. I plan to have two wheelsets, 26" x 80mm/4-5" Snowshoes and Floaters (current) and 27.5 x 45mm 3+" Fat Trax or ??? (in process).

    I highly recomend adding a Bluto, fat tires are too bouncy unless the air pressure is very low, which then causes sluggish steering and less precise control when riding fast; "the drift". With the Bluto I can run higher tire pressures without suffering bounce AND my front end stays down vs skittering about.

  93. #693
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    Nicely done. Thanks for the all the feedback.

  94. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    I highly recomend adding a Bluto, fat tires are too bouncy unless the air pressure is very low, which then causes sluggish steering and less precise control when riding fast; "the drift". With the Bluto I can run higher tire pressures without suffering bounce AND my front end stays down vs skittering about.
    Great review Ben, thanks.

    What tire pressure are you running now and how much were you running before Bluto.

  95. #695
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    "Too much bounce without a bluto" lol

    rog

  96. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    Great review Ben, thanks.

    What tire pressure are you running now and how much were you running before Bluto.
    I was running ~8psi for trail riding, but this was only to keep the bouncing to a minimum. Really, an even lower psi, 6-7# would have been better, but the steering just got too sluggish and the tires would feel to "drifty.

    I prefer to run ~10psi, but without the Bluto it was really too bouncy. After adding the Bluto I can run 10psi and the front end stays on the ground, the backend still bounces but not nearly as much as it did without the Bluto.

    Folks who ride fast on their fatty know about the bounce, it can be really destabalizing, it can throw you off your line, it can be downright scary when making high speed turns on uneven terrain (all I ride, duh).

    Now maybe I'm not as talented as someone like rog, but adding the Bluto to my fatty made the Lurch an equal player in my stable.

    If you think about it, we nearly all ride suspension bikes, adding fatter tires is no more a replacement for suspension than walking is a replacement for gears; I'm an ex single speeder, argue all you want, gears rock!

  97. #697
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    I usually ride about 10psi front, 8-9 psi rear. If I had a bluto I'd run the front around 12. The bike sucks on the downhill, I'm hoping the bluto will make it better.

    Looks like there is enough room to clear the snowshoes too.

  98. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    I usually ride about 10psi front, 8-9 psi rear. If I had a bluto I'd run the front around 12. The bike sucks on the downhill, I'm hoping the bluto will make it better.

    Looks like there is enough room to clear the snowshoes too.
    I would think there is plenty of room, the Snowshoe is only 1/2" wider than the Floaters.

    It's worth getting a Bluto if your ride fast on dirt. Last night I went as fast, possibly faster in certain sections, than I would go on my FS. Between the Bluto and slacking out the HA, it's my fatty downhilling machine

    The cool thing is I feel way more comfortable being all "moto boy", putting a foot down, jumping anything in the way, it's like being in a big 4 x 4, I can be all reckless and the margin for error is really wide.

    When is bikes direct gonna bring out their FS?

  99. #699
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    The gravity FS doesn't look that great to me. I'm not digging the super high pivot.

    I definitely ride fast on dirt, so I'm thinking I'm going to do it. Might wait until next year and see if other manufacturers make fat forks to bring the prices down.

    Next big purchase will be carbon rims for the XC or bluto for the fatbike. Really depends what happens when the snow starts flying.

  100. #700
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    $500 for a Bluto, that's just about the least I have paid for a suspension fork. I paid a whole lot more for my Pike!

    Of course you'll need an Angleset....so add another $125.

    Yeah, we could have waited for the Lurch with a Bluto, but who suspected (not me), and of course those suckers are sitting around waiting while we're riding

  101. #701
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    Nice job NB. Im not really familiar with the angleset headset... Did you have to set the angle at something other than zero?
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
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    Lurch Fatbike

  102. #702
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    My lurch

    Just wanted to pop by and show you guys my lurch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-dsc01938-edit.jpg  


  103. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by rain100 View Post
    Just wanted to pop by and show you guys my lurch.
    Nice bike. What crank are you using?

  104. #704
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    They are sram x9 cranks with wolf tooth components snowflake chainring for 190mm rear end fatbikes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-dsc01943-small.jpg  

    The Lurch Lounge-dsc01941-small.jpg  

    The Lurch Lounge-dsc01946-small.jpg  

    The Lurch Lounge-dsc01948-small.jpg  


  105. #705
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    Here's the order number for the headset I used to get Bluto clearance:

    zs44/ec56 upper/lower cups

    There may be options for adjusting head angle, but keep in mind that most angleset users are trying to slack the head angle, so if you are trying to recover a bunch of head angle so you can run 120mm fork, we'll good luck with that!

  106. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by rain100 View Post
    They are sram x9 cranks with wolf tooth components snowflake chainring for 190mm rear end fatbikes.
    Any idea of weight savings from the stock rim to the Mulefut?

  107. #707
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    I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.

  108. #708
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    Quote Originally Posted by rain100 View Post
    They are sram x9 cranks with wolf tooth components snowflake chainring for 190mm rear end fatbikes.
    With this setup, is the q-factor the same as stock?

  109. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockin View Post
    Anyone with a 22" frame that can post up real world standover measurements? In between the 20" and the 22" - leaning toward the 22" as my ETT lengths are normally 24.5".
    I've a 22" framed Lurch. I measured 36" at the head tube and 31.5" at the seat tube.

    The Lurch Lounge-001_zps8e30c28d.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-003_zps20b6efa2.jpg

    I'm 6' 2-1/2" barefoot, and I wear a 34" inseam in Levi's 501s. I've no problems standing over the bike at any part of the top tube.

    I hope this helped.

    Cheers,
    appalachian kamper
    Last edited by Appalachian_Kamper; 10-29-2014 at 04:07 PM. Reason: No Rhodes scholar here

  110. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by rain100 View Post
    I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.
    Thanks! I just put on Bud/Lous. Look like next up are some new rims.

  111. #711
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    Was that the weinmann hl 80's that you weighed?

    rog

  112. #712
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    Quote Originally Posted by rain100 View Post
    I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.
    Which tape did you use to go tubeless? How's it holding up with the Snowshoe/Mulefut combo?

  113. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkitekt View Post
    With this setup, is the q-factor the same as stock?
    The q factor is much better with the x9 cranks; however, you do have to use a chainring for short spindle sram direct mount cranks for the chainline to be correct.

  114. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    Was that the weinmann hl 80's that you weighed?

    rog
    yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by OnThaCouch View Post
    Which tape did you use to go tubeless? How's it holding up with the Snowshoe/Mulefut combo?
    I used scotch transparent tough tape. The Mulefuts are awesome, they set up tubeless very easily, and I was even able to get the bead to seat without an air compressor!

  115. #715
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    Bring on the snow!

    J.Paks frame bag on my Motobecane Lurch by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  116. #716
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    Anyone have problems with their chain? Just snapped mine. Switching from small to large cog on my crankset while riding on a flat - nearly no torque. This is the second time I've broken a chain, the other time it was deserved. (spokes ate a derailleur)

    Only 95 miles on this chain

    Will be replacing with a KMC 10.93, I've had good luck with those.


  117. #717
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    No chain issues - but have a bb spindle issue - I'm unclear if it's a 100mm with 20 mm spacers, or 120mm with 20 spacers -
    Will this fit -
    Samox crank and bottom bracket that came off a 2014 Specialized Fatboy. It has about 10 rides on it and is in excellent condition. 2 x 10 with 22/36 chain rings, alloy 100 mm CNC spindle, 175 mm long crank arms and includes the PF30 Samox bottom bracket.

  118. #718
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    I think its a 100mm bb with 2 10mm spacers

  119. #719
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    Whats wrong with the spindle? Mine squeaked a bit until I greased the contact points.

  120. #720
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    Nope, mine haas been fine, but I'm running a different crank and tires.

    Maybe you don't have enough chain tension, ie chain is too long to it "flips" into the tire?

    There should be enough clearance, take a look at the spacers on the cranks and make sure they have them set up correctly...

    About the only thing I do these days is lube the chain and spray the bike off when I'm back home

    Lovin' the Bluto, so fun to rip down a hill, jumping rocks, waaaay more control than a rigid fork.

    There's definitely an FS fatty in my future

    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Anyone have problems with their chain? Just snapped mine. Switching from small to large cog on my crankset while riding on a flat - nearly no torque. This is the second time I've broken a chain, the other time it was deserved. (spokes ate a derailleur)

    Only 95 miles on this chain

    Will be replacing with a KMC 10.93, I've had good luck with those.


  121. #721
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    No chain issues - but have a bb spindle issue - I'm unclear if it's a 100mm with 20 mm spacers, or 120mm with 20 spacers -
    Will this fit -
    Samox crank and bottom bracket that came off a 2014 Specialized Fatboy. It has about 10 rides on it and is in excellent condition. 2 x 10 with 22/36 chain rings, alloy 100 mm CNC spindle, 175 mm long crank arms and includes the PF30 Samox bottom bracket.
    190 rears use the longer spindle.
    The Fatboy has a press fit BB, so no on swapping.


    Pedaling

  122. #722
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    The stock Lurch crank is very similar to the Samox (same, but unbranded?), also the chainrings are the same size, so I'm not sure what benefit you would get from changing cranks.

    If you want to go narrower for running 4" tires, you can get the FSA Comet Fat Bike crank, that's what I run and I have no complaints.

    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    No chain issues - but have a bb spindle issue - I'm unclear if it's a 100mm with 20 mm spacers, or 120mm with 20 spacers -
    Will this fit -
    Samox crank and bottom bracket that came off a 2014 Specialized Fatboy. It has about 10 rides on it and is in excellent condition. 2 x 10 with 22/36 chain rings, alloy 100 mm CNC spindle, 175 mm long crank arms and includes the PF30 Samox bottom bracket.

  123. #723
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    Nothing was wrong that I could see. I'm just going to throw another chain on there and hope for the best. I've beat the snot out of this bike and if the chain was going to break there were lots of better times to do it.

    I don't even wipe mine off anymore, it just gets thrown in the garage. Now daylight savings is gone, I'm going to get some night rides going on this thing. Hoping I have sufficient clothing for the winter, but we'll see.

    I definitely need some gloves and a balaclava or ear band

  124. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by rain100 View Post
    I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.
    I am assuming you are using the original hubs that came with the lurch. What about the spokes? Where you able to use the same spokes or did you get new ones? Also, did you rebuild the wheel with the new rim yourself?
    Last edited by singletrackmack; 11-06-2014 at 09:53 PM.
    Get out of the gutter and onto the mountain top.

  125. #725
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackmack View Post
    I am assuming you are using the original hubs that came with the lurch. What about the spokes? Where you able to use the same spokes or did you get new ones? Also, did you rebuild the wheel with the new rim yourself?
    I used the original hubs. The spokes and the rims were both taken off of a Trek Farley 6. The spokes built with the original rims were 258mm all around. The spokes to build the mulefuts were 267mm and 265mm. If I had the choice, I think 267 all around would work the best, although the 265s built up the front wheel just fine. For me, the fat bike rims have been the easiest wheels to build yet.

  126. #726
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    32 tooth 1x 10 speed? OBTW, they look like jet fighters, not snowflakes

  127. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by cousinit View Post
    OBTW, they look like jet fighters, not snowflakes
    Funny, I though the same thing.

  128. #728
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    So rex, I still don't see a small chainring upfront on that close-up shot, or is that just a weird camera angle? still wondering if that's a 10 or 20 speed Lurch?

  129. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by cousinit View Post
    So rex, I still don't see a small chainring upfront on that close-up shot, or is that just a weird camera angle? still wondering if that's a 10 or 20 speed Lurch?
    Maybe rain100 will chime in, but it looks like a 1X10 to me, no front derailleur is a clue, (although some don't mind hand shifting).

  130. #730
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    Follow up on Lurch with Bluto:

    I have been riding the Lurch more than my FS, and even though it is kinda heavy and akward at times, it is really fun to ride. I have been working on letting the back end drift around on turns, have yet to really push the front end out, but it might be that I'm not trying hard enough.

    I'm running the Bluto 80mm fork as it was shipped, standard oil and tokens (4?), 120psi seems to work for me (190#). I use the full travel when I start jumping and doing drops, but there have not been any harsh "bottoming out". 80mm is fine, but I could see running 100mm travel, but I feel like 120mm would be wasted. I might just order a new air cartridge and try it out.

    The way I have the bike set up (short stem 45mm, long bars 740mm, short wheel base slammed forward) it is about playful as a fat bike can be, nimble for a fat bike. It is so nimble that at times it's a bit twitchy when climbing steep grades with an irregular surface; the front end lifts.

    On the downs she is steamroller, I go waaay fast, but it is so secure feeling have yet to scare myself, though I have come close to blowing through corners. The BB7 brakes work, that's for sure!

    I'm thinking about a drop post, especially cuz the stock post is a PITA to get secured; I hate to loosen it on the downs because then it sarts sliping.

    For my next ride I'm going to play around with wheel position and see how much of a difference it'll make to put the wheel in the middle of the drops, end of the drops, etc...

  131. #731
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    Here is the current configuration of my Motobecane Lurch. Added a Ritchey Comp Stem, Ritchey Comp Seatpost, YAWYD top cap, Revelate Designs Bags, some Specialized lock-on grips, cheap NSbike platforms, SDG Bel-Air Saddle, NiteRider lights, and SKS fenders.

    Riding the front at 9.5PSI and the rear at 8PSI. I do a 10 mile commute (one way) to work every day and the snow is starting to fall here in Wisconsin.

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2787.jpg

  132. #732
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    Mmmm...Motorbacon
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  133. #733
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    Props on the Thomson stem. Your bike is so clean, Sven! How do you like the mud shovels?

  134. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hackinator View Post
    Props on the Thomson stem. Your bike is so clean, Sven! How do you like the mud shovels?
    Thanks. The stem/bars/grips were hand me downs from my 29er. The stem is an 80, bars are 720s. The front mudshovel is great. The rear, I dunno....I broke the clamp the first day I installed it. PDW sent me a new clamp within days. Still doesnt stay put very well, it swivels side-to-side sometimes. As far as keeping my backside clean, that works well!
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
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  135. #735
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    And, it begins. 7 degrees and snowing....

    Lurching through 7 degree snow by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  136. #736
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    How are those Snowshoes doing in the snow?
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  137. #737
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    I can't give you feedback of much substance,but they worked fine in the one snow ride I did with a few inches of snow.
    baker

  138. #738
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    Tubeless Step-By-Step

    Got my Lurch tubeless setup working the other day - mostly, still have slow leaks on the rear. Front wheel was a breeze and didn't require building up the middle, rear did require building up the middle and was a total PITA but was definitely worth it. These huge tires seem to really benefit from the lower rolling resistance of tubeless.


    Step by step how I did it. Hopefully it helps someone:
    1 - Cut and remove OEM liner
    2 - Throw some super glue on the rim weld. I read this somewhere but didn't do it, and I think this is why my rear is leaking.
    3 - There are some injection nubs on the tire right on the bead. Cut these off.
    4 - Use Duck Brand tape sticky side up for a liner. Use a small section face down to hold the face up stuff in place. Get an ironic pattern, of course. Mustaches seem to work well.
    5 - Seal over this with Gorilla Tape - Get the "Tough & Wide" 73mm wide stuff.
    6 - Poke a hole for valve stem, install one of the types with a removable core and use a compressor with one of those air blow off guns with the rubber attachment. Like this one: Sears.com Good luck if you don't have a compressor...
    7 - Attempt to inflate. You will probably fail, but this will give you an idea of how much you will need to build up the middle to get a seal.
    8 - Build up the middle as required. I used Carmacell Insulation Tape P/N TAP18230 from Home Depot.
    9 - Seal over insulation tape with more Gorilla Tape. I cut both the insulation tape and gorilla tape into thinner strips for the outer sides of the rim for this part. Cutting the gorilla tape while its still on the roll seems to work well. Rest your knife on a block or book.
    10 - Stans, use your air blow off gun with the valve core off to get your initial seal. After this, you should be able to get the bead to seal easier.
    11 - Pray it holds
    12 - ride

  139. #739
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    Bluto Fit Question

    OK now I've got a question for anyone who has installed a Bluto on the Lurch without the downtube bend. Nurse Ben, anyone else?

    How much extra lower stack height is required? I read somewhere that its 2mm, but that doesn't sound like much. Is this true?

    I'm thinking a Chris King InSet #2 might do the trick.

    The OEM FSA headset supposedly has a 2.9mm bottom stack height. The Chris King InSet #2 should fit this frame and has a 5.6mm bottom stack height.

    5.6mm-2.9mm = 2.7mm. Will 2.7mm of extra clearance be enough? Alternatively, has anyone tried the ball peen hammer method? Thanks in advance

  140. #740
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    Alternatively, has anyone tried the ball peen hammer method?
    You are not seriously considering putting a dent in the downtube of your frame, intentionally, are you?

  141. #741
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    You are not seriously considering putting a dent in the downtube of your frame, intentionally, are you?
    Haha, yeah I actually did give it some thought. I'm not super attached to this frame yet. Maybe it IS a really awful idea... Since its a thick steel frame, I wasn't super worried about the frame integrity if I just need a small dent. Of course there's rust from chipped paint and all that business. But yeah, the headset swap is a much lower risk fix.

  142. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    Haha, yeah I actually did give it some thought. I'm not super attached to this frame yet. Maybe it IS a really awful idea... Since its a thick steel frame, I wasn't super worried about the frame integrity if I just need a small dent. Of course there's rust from chipped paint and all that business. But yeah, the headset swap is a much lower risk fix.
    I'm OK with "forming" a chainstay. Maybe a seat tube. But the bottom side of the down tube right in front of the head tube? Son, you must not like your teeth very much.

  143. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    But yeah, the headset swap is a much lower risk fix.
    Not to mention less permanent.

    Particularly if you are not attached to the frame, a dent like that would surely reduce its resale value.

    Plus the downtube is one of the most stressed tubes on the frame.

  144. #744
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm OK with "forming" a chainstay. Maybe a seat tube. But the bottom side of the down tube right in front of the head tube? Son, you must not like your teeth very much.
    Hmmmm. Yeah, forces backwards with wheel on rocks and stress points and all that business. Putting the hammer away sheepishly now...

    So back to the original question for Bluto owners if they think 2.7mm extra clearance should do the trick?

  145. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    Hmmmm. Yeah, forces backwards with wheel on rocks and stress points and all that business. Putting the hammer away sheepishly now...

    So back to the original question for Bluto owners if they think 2.7mm extra clearance should do the trick?
    No way. The Cane Creek adds 14-15 mm bottom stack, and after install NurseBen stated there was only 5mm clearance.

  146. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    No way. The Cane Creek adds 14-15 mm bottom stack, and after install NurseBen stated there was only 5mm clearance.
    Bummer. Good to know, thanks. I was hoping to stay away from the Cane Creek Angleset since the guys at my LBS were strongly recommending against it due to the clunking issues many have had. I was also trying to avoid the added complexity of the angle adjustment options. Anyone know of any other headset that might fit the bill?

  147. #747
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    oh how i love my q-lite tubes

  148. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    No way. The Cane Creek adds 14-15 mm bottom stack, and after install NurseBen stated there was only 5mm clearance.
    No, you need way morr than 2mm. With the CK Anglesset I have just enough; 5mm is less than 1/4".

    It's worth the extra expense, the final product is a sweet ride.

    I'd do it again , but I'd go for 100mm :-)

  149. #749
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    The Lurch Lounge-img_1944.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-img_1945.jpg

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    The Lurch Lounge-img_1953.jpg
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    2012 Pure Fix SS
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    2016 Macho King

  150. #750
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    Took mine out in 29 degrees on wednesday. I didn't overinflate my tires, they were set to normal pressures in the garage. When riding and the bike cooled I found the pressure to be too low. I then pinchflatted 4 miles from my house. No big deal, hadan extra tube. I didnt have a pump just co2. Below freezing a co2 cart barely inflated the tube past completely flat. I had 4 carts and all of them only filled the tube half way to the sidewalls.

    Ended up carrying the bike 4 miles (because it wouldnt roll and I didnt want to roll it on bare rim) until my wife finally answered the phone and came and picked me up a mile from home. Definately adjusting the pressures with the bike at riding temp and carrying a pump.

    Was super fun and bike did well up until that point. Feel like there will be more lessons learned but overall ill do it again. Im just worried about my knees. Ridi g more than 10 miles in the cold messed by bad knee up pretty bad. Might have to end up with a 170mm rear ended bike or get a road bike for the winter. I could barely pedal, when I was hiking and carrying the bike they felt fine. Knee wasnt an issue until cooler weather unfortunately. Going to try tomorrow during daylight

  151. #751
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    First snow ride. Wow great fun. Temp. Out side was 10 deg. But still most fun I have had in a long time. 45 min. Ride in 3 inches of snow in the dark with a bike light. Q factor who cares. The bike is a snow bike and kicks a$$ in the snow.

  152. #752
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    So I have considered ordering a fat bike, is the Lurch a bad choice for single-track dirt?

    Thanks Lurchers!

  153. #753
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    Does anyone know torque specs for the Samox crankset?

  154. #754
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    Samox crankset on the Lurch

    Does anyone know the torque spec for the crank arm bolt on this crankset?
    Thanks

  155. #755
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Does anyone know the torque spec for the crank arm bolt on this crankset?
    Thanks
    as hard as you can torque it.

    rog

  156. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auzyman View Post
    So I have considered ordering a fat bike, is the Lurch a bad choice for single-track dirt?

    Thanks Lurchers!
    No. It's great. I've never ridden mine on anything else.

    Ride today was awesome. 20f and nearly no snow.


  157. #757
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  158. #758
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    Thanks mike! The* amount of options available is a little overwhelming!

    Also just ordered lurch with bluto!

    Time to wait 2 1/2 months

  159. #759
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    The Lurch Lounge-imag2813.jpg

    Did a 30 mile ride in the white stuff here in Madison, Wisconsin today. The bike is definitely a snow bike. Only complaints I have are the cable housings have compressed a little in the cold making shifts not as smooth and the tires slip a bit in the wet, slushy stuff.

  160. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hackinator View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did a 30 mile ride in the white stuff here in Madison, Wisconsin today. The bike is definitely a snow bike. Only complaints I have are the cable housings have compressed a little in the cold making shifts not as smooth and the tires slip a bit in the wet, slushy stuff.

    Hackinator, sweet looking ride! Where did you get those fenders?

  161. #761
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdurden View Post
    Hackinator, sweet looking ride! Where did you get those fenders?
    Thanks! It has been a work in progress and isn't light fully loaded but being able to get out in the cold and quiet makes me forget about that. The fenders I got directly from QBP. They are available most anywhere though. Search for SKS Grand M.O.M. (rear) and Grand D.A.D. (front). Portland Design Works also makes the Dave's Mud Shovels. Haven't tried those but some others on here can likely weigh in on them.

  162. #762
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    For you guys that went 1x10 with the race face chain ring did you need to get spacers or longer bolts. Just curious

  163. #763
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    mud shovels

    The Lurch Lounge-img_20141118_092912_215.jpg

    The mud shovels are quite light. Additionally, they are wider than the SKS fenders which sold me. The worked great on my second slush ride....hence the purchase.

  164. #764
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    Hello Lurchers,
    I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
    Thanks in advance,
    Ed

  165. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Hello Lurchers,
    I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
    Thanks in advance,
    Ed
    On a Medium Lurch, stock 400mm post and WTB saddle set at 35 1/2", it leaves 3" of post above the minimum insertion line below seat collar. I'm 5'10.5", current seat measurements are at 36 1/2 (pedal axle to seat top). See the http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mot...932345-31.html thread, post 772 for my breakdown on Med Lurch sizing vs other BD fatties. I think the Lurch runs smallish, still rides well, but would rather have it in a Large. I'm OK with the height of the frame, just think the top tube is too short making for a cramped cockpit. I've got a Sturgis Bullet on order and sized up to a Large.

  166. #766
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    On a Medium Lurch, stock 400mm post and WTB saddle set at 35 1/2", it leaves 3" of post above the minimum insertion line below seat collar. I'm 5'10.5", current seat measurements are at 36 1/2 (pedal axle to seat top). See the http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mot...932345-31.html thread, post 772 for my breakdown on Med Lurch sizing vs other BD fatties. I think the Lurch runs smallish, still rides well, but would rather have it in a Large. I'm OK with the height of the frame, just think the top tube is too short making for a cramped cockpit. I've got a Sturgis Bullet on order and sized up to a Large.
    I agree, I think the Lurch runs small. After measuring my current mountain bikes, I opted to go with a large. I'm only 5'9" with 30-31" inseam and it fits fine. I did put on a slightly shorter stem.

  167. #767
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph View Post
    I agree, I think the Lurch runs small. After measuring my current mountain bikes, I opted to go with a large. I'm only 5'9" with 30-31" inseam and it fits fine. I did put on a slightly shorter stem.
    On the other hand, I am the same size and ride a small. :-) Top tube length is comparable to my other bikes and feels good.
    baker

  168. #768
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    Carbon fork questions.......

    So for carbon forks that fit our bikes I can only find the Framed Alaskan and this ebay one:

    Fork:
    2015 Fatbike Carbon Fork 15 150mm Skewer D Brake Snow Bike Carbon Fork New Sale | eBay
    T/A:
    Snow Bike 15 150mm Front Fork thru Axle Quick Release Fat Bike Fork Axle Skewer | eBay

    Is there anything else for 15x150mm?
    Anyone know anything about that one on ebay?
    Does anyone know details on the carbon fork from Framed, like who makes it?

    I wound not mind dropping 2.2 lbs off the front end and having a thru axle

  169. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Hello Lurchers,
    I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
    Thanks in advance,
    Ed
    I'm 5'11" and the medium is a great fit for me.

  170. #770
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    Can anyone post a picture of a surly Bud and/or Lou mounted up to show the frame clearance? I am thinking of pulling the trigger on one but am concerned about the tire clearance.

  171. #771
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    Quote Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
    Can anyone post a picture of a surly Bud and/or Lou mounted up to show the frame clearance? I am thinking of pulling the trigger on one but am concerned about the tire clearance.
    Try page 10, Post #248

  172. #772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    Try page 10, Post #248
    I replaced the Snowshoes with Bud/Lou and couldn't be happier. No more washing out, self steer.

  173. #773
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph View Post
    I agree, I think the Lurch runs small. After measuring my current mountain bikes, I opted to go with a large. I'm only 5'9" with 30-31" inseam and it fits fine. I did put on a slightly shorter stem.
    Thanks Watermonkey, Ralph and Baker, I am currently leaning towards changing to a size Large. Anyone here with a Large Lurch that is 5' 11 1/2" tall? Hows it fit? Ralph, what is the standover Ht @ the bottom bracket and the Effective top tube length in inches?
    Thanks, Ed

  174. #774
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    Geometry is here: Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM

    ETT's
    Small 22.9
    Medium 23.4
    Large 24.0

    Standover
    Small 29.9
    Medium 31
    Large 32.3

    And today's Lurch pic...
    PB180010 by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  175. #775
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auzyman View Post
    Thanks mike! The* amount of options available is a little overwhelming!

    Also just ordered lurch with bluto!

    Time to wait 2 1/2 months
    It'll be worth it. I wished the bluto was available when I ordered mine.

  176. #776
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Thanks Watermonkey, Ralph and Baker, I am currently leaning towards changing to a size Large. Anyone here with a Large Lurch that is 5' 11 1/2" tall? Hows it fit? Ralph, what is the standover Ht @ the bottom bracket and the Effective top tube length in inches?
    Thanks, Ed
    I normally ride a large, I'm 6" with a 32.5" inseam. I feel like I could have done a XL with a 50-70mm stem. I feel like my seatpost is pretty high, but my reach is perfect with a 90mm stem. If you're on the edge, I'd go with the larger size but I prefer the feeling of a larger frame.

  177. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Thanks Watermonkey, Ralph and Baker, I am currently leaning towards changing to a size Large. Anyone here with a Large Lurch that is 5' 11 1/2" tall? Hows it fit? Ralph, what is the standover Ht @ the bottom bracket and the Effective top tube length in inches?
    Thanks, Ed
    I'm 5' 11-1/2", normal proportions. I bought a Lg. First ride, my initial impression was that the cockpit felt so cramped that I was sure they had shipped me a Med by mistake, but I measured everything, and sure enough, it was a Lg. I've since swapped bars and done some minor tweaking and have gotten very used to the fit and like it a lot. Fit is so subjective and there are some people that prefer a really tight, compressed cockpit, but unless you're one of them, I'd suggest a Lg. FWIW.

  178. #778
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    Thanks all
    I hope to put mega miles on this bike with the wife as a diversion from our MTB tandem. That is why I am so concerned about frame size. Has anyone measured the standover on their large. If I look at the sizing chart it shows 32.3 inches and the geometry chart shows 30.2 inches. Quite a difference, wondering which is correct.
    Ed

  179. #779
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    Another thing to keep in mind, the smaller frames have less space for frame bags, and on one of the gazillion posts on here, diminished tire clearance in the rear.

  180. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy2288 View Post
    Carbon fork questions.......

    So for carbon forks that fit our bikes I can only find the Framed Alaskan and this ebay one:

    Fork:
    2015 Fatbike Carbon Fork 15 150mm Skewer D Brake Snow Bike Carbon Fork New Sale | eBay
    T/A:
    Snow Bike 15 150mm Front Fork thru Axle Quick Release Fat Bike Fork Axle Skewer | eBay

    Is there anything else for 15x150mm?
    Anyone know anything about that one on ebay?
    Does anyone know details on the carbon fork from Framed, like who makes it?

    I wound not mind dropping 2.2 lbs off the front end and having a thru axle
    That fork looks interesting and affordable. Buy it and let me know how it works ;-)

    I'm tempted to pull the trigger, actually. We'd also need the conversion endcaps for our hub. Any idea where we can source those?
    baker

  181. #781
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    Just a note to thank everyone for all the input ....I have called BD and changed my order to a Large frame size. Now the second week in January can't get here fast enough!
    Thanks again,
    Ed

  182. #782
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    I'm 6', 32" inseam, I ride a medium Lurch 18", it fits well, small enough to feel agile without feeling croweded, that's with running a 45mm stem. It has similar fit characteristics to my FS which is also a medium and has a long TT running a short stem.

    The top tube on the Lurch is pretty long, so it's really more about reach and overall cockpit size than standover. Standover on the Lurch is pretty low for a steel frame. I feel stretched running anything longer than a 60mm stem, my seat is just forward of center.

    I don't think I'd pick a frame based on how much seat post is showing or how much room it has in the triangle, that's like picking a tire because it's lightweight; you are skipping the important stuff.

    The Medium frame has enough room for a good sized bag if you are so inclined. I run a large roll up Topeak seat bag and a water pack with room for gear. I think a bar bag would be my preference if I needed more space for "crap", esp bulky stuff like clothes.

    Quote Originally Posted by giff07 View Post
    Hello Lurchers,
    I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
    Thanks in advance,
    Ed

  183. #783
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    Thanks Nurse Ben,
    I measured a 26" wheel hardtail MTB that I have owned and ridden for a long time and feel fits pretty well. In comparing the measurements from that to the geometry listed for the Lurch I find it closer to the Large than the medium. The top tube is 1/4" longer on the Lurch than on mine but I am running a 110 mm stem on my hardtail so I can make that up there. Most of the other parameters match the Large geometry.
    I appreciate the input,
    Ed

  184. #784
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    Novatec small parts - might be a source

    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    That fork looks interesting and affordable. Buy it and let me know how it works ;-)

    I'm tempted to pull the trigger, actually. We'd also need the conversion endcaps for our hub. Any idea where we can source those?
    BDop Cycling Co

    I came across this yesterday - the only hint of any place that has Novatec small parts for sale. They do not have specific Sb201-202 parts listed, but do mention that they work OEM, so might have a direct line to Novatec. The do have freehub bodies and bearings, so if they're legit, and I'll find out soon, I'm going to place an order for some backup parts. I also saw that they have a free hub body with a steel spline to prevent gouging. Not having a source for the small parts is really my only complaint about Nocvatec - my hubs are still buttery smooth.

  185. #785
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    BDop Cycling Co

    I came across this yesterday - the only hint of any place that has Novatec small parts for sale. They do not have specific Sb201-202 parts listed, but do mention that they work OEM, so might have a direct line to Novatec. The do have freehub bodies and bearings, so if they're legit, and I'll find out soon, I'm going to place an order for some backup parts. I also saw that they have a free hub body with a steel spline to prevent gouging. Not having a source for the small parts is really my only complaint about Nocvatec - my hubs are still buttery smooth.
    Cool, let me know what you find out about the d201sb/d202sb parts.

    Edit: I just sent them an email regarding the endcaps. I'll post up their response.

    Thanks
    baker

  186. #786
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    About the Novatec 15mm thru conversion parts...

    I emailed Novatec, and here's what I got back from [email protected]:

    Hi Steve,

    We have these parts on back order from Taiwan. They should be available before the end of the year.

    Thanks
    Henry

    I asked him to drop me a line when the parts are available - haven't heard back

  187. #787
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    Sorry, I'm a few post behind but here is my 2 cents on sizing. I have the 22" and find it fits me perfectly. I'm 6'2" 180 lbs with a 32" inseam. I'm running the bike stock except for I changed out the rear tire for a LOU 4.8". Ive got a several off road hours on this bike and love it so far. I can see the free hub body is going to be an issue as it already has deep slots worn into it from cogs on the cassette. Kinda dumb they went with an alloy free hub body.

  188. #788
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    'eh - been using hopes with my normal MTB. I have over 1k miles on the freehub. Takes a bit to get the casette off the freehub, but it doesn't have any measurable effects on anything.

  189. #789
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    I have scoured the Earth looking for the hub ends, I have been in regular contact with Novatec USA, I purchased the ends they suggested, but they sent me the wrong ends, then they put me on hold. the holiday slow downs are here, I suggest you make your own using the QR ends, this works fine. Or swap hubs.

    I love my Bluto :-)


    Quote Originally Posted by Bike'nSplit View Post
    About the Novatec 15mm thru conversion parts...

    I emailed Novatec, and here's what I got back from [email protected]:

    Hi Steve,

    We have these parts on back order from Taiwan. They should be available before the end of the year.

    Thanks
    Henry

    I asked him to drop me a line when the parts are available - haven't heard back

  190. #790
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    If you guys find them, let me know. Im either going to do a carbon fork or a bluto depending on bluto prices next year

  191. #791
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    First Post

    Hi guys, I've had my Lurch for a couple months now and I thought I would post some pics...

    The Lurch Lounge-p1010488.jpg

    well one pic made it, the server must not like 4MB pics. Pics taken at Great Bear zip 13069, NY

  192. #792
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    my cockpit, I cut 1 1/2" off the bars...

    http://thinker.smugmug.com/Bicycles/...LL%20PIC-S.jpg

  193. #793
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    Front or Rear racks for the Lurch

    Has anybody tried the Fat bike OMM rack on their lurch? I need to carry my metal detector in my panniers so I'm looking for some racks. Not much for a 190MM rear end that I can find.

    thanks for any help, Steve

  194. #794
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    NICE! Thanks for posting picture. What size did you buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by serenitycyclist View Post
    Hi guys, I've had my Lurch for a couple months now and I thought I would post some pics...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1010488.jpg 
Views:	252 
Size:	312.1 KB 
ID:	940995

    well one pic made it, the server must not like 4MB pics. Pics taken at Great Bear zip 13069, NY

  195. #795
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    I'm 5'10" 32" inseam and the 20" is perfect for me.

  196. #796
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    Has anyone had success in setting up the stock wheelset from the Lurch for Ghetto Tubeless? If so, what pressures do you run and what method did you use?
    Thanks,
    Ed

  197. #797
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    Thanks for your help on sizing. I 'm 5'8 31.5" inseam..I guess an 18" would work for me, but a 20" would also prob be fine.
    Quote Originally Posted by serenitycyclist View Post
    I'm 5'10" 32" inseam and the 20" is perfect for me.

  198. #798
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    Nice lookin' ride Serenitycyclist! Can't wait to get mine.
    Ed

  199. #799
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    Solved the alloy free hub issue. Jensen bikes has XT cassettes for 50 bucks. I'll use the one off the Lurch on one of my other bikes. The XT has an alloy carrier that has 6 gears together which will spread the force/impact out over a very broad area. My 3rd gear cog has worn a notch at least 1 mm long. It is worn through the smallest land already and will be through the others in the next few rides. 4th gear isn't far behind. If you people ride 'em hard up hills/stairs/rocks or whatever take a look at your freehub bodies.

  200. #800
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    Got my first snow ride today. Cut 11 miles of singletrack through 2-6" of snow. It's definitely harder than I thought. Bike is also a lot more capable than I imagined. The few super steep areas I thought I'd have to hike were no issue. Couldn't imagine it with a bud/lou combo. Definitely hooked on the snow riding. Also think I'm going to go carbon fork.




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