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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavedweller32 View Post
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    Beautiful!! If I'd ordered earlier I'd be rocking an orange one too!

    For now I'll have to settle for Mello-Yello. ;-)

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavedweller32 View Post
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    I like the white accents. Is that a 20" or 22"?

  3. #303
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    That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.

    I'm going to ride it as-is before tinkering with it to get a good baseline.

    I emailed BD as their site showed a blue 20" (which I wanted in the first place) to change frame colors. I got no email back, except tracking information which showed a black frame. I don't know what I'm going to get at this point so I'm assuming it's going to be black.

    I was going to start shopping for rimstrips and such, but I'm not so sure at this point.

    I'm getting excited, though. I love that black bike with blue accessories.

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavedweller32 View Post
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    The white looks awesome. Reminds me of an orangesicle.

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.
    That's not going to happen. The Samox is just like a Shimano by the looks of things. The NDS arm slides onto the splined spindle and is locked in place by pinch bolts. There's a little extra depth on the spline to make sure you can snug it up against the bearings. If you remove the spacers you'll have the same Q-factor, the crank will just slide back and forth in the BB by 10mm.


    Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).

  6. #306
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    Samox crankset weight?

    Spovegas, thanks for the detailed feedback on the Q factor of the Samox and your detailed writeup. Did you happen to get a weight on the crankset? For reference, your fame clearance measurements are based on a 20" frame? I wonder how much crank-chainstay clearance there is on the other smaller models. There's definitely less tire clearance on the 16" vs 18" frames per posted pics here.
    My two cents - I like the Q factor. It reminds me of the difference between skiing on old school skinny skis with a narrow stance, and riding new all mountain/powder skis with a wider stance. The narrow Q of my cross bike kills my hips after only 10 miles.

  7. #307
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    Great idea with the backward allen head bolt. I removed the flimsy bolts and jammed the axle all the way forward. I put a Vee8 4.0" tire (for more speed and smoothness until the snow flies) on the rear and it just fits with about 1/4 inch to spare on the der. bracket. I'll use the allen bolt when I put the snowshoe back on. Thx!

  8. #308
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    16" Team Orange and 18" Grape Soda

    Finally had a chance to take the bikes out yesterday. Mine is the Orange one. So far so good. Will be changing to riser/sweep bars soon because of shoulder issues. FWIW, I have had 4 knee surgeries and had no issues with the wide Q factor (YET).
    The Lurch Lounge-img_20140912_102942145.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-img_20140912_094756311.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-img_20140912_104240812.jpg

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    That's not going to happen. The Samox is just like a Shimano by the looks of things. The NDS arm slides onto the splined spindle and is locked in place by pinch bolts. There's a little extra depth on the spline to make sure you can snug it up against the bearings. If you remove the spacers you'll have the same Q-factor, the crank will just slide back and forth in the BB by 10mm.


    Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).
    I meant to say that the stock 190mm crank won't work, but it looks like a 170mm may if you go 1x drivetrain. Moving the chainline by 10mm is a lot. Looking at my extra xt crank and raceface 34t ring, you might be able to put it on the crankarm side of the spider to offset it.

    Qfactor might not even be an issue for me - I've never ridden the bike, it's speculation at this point. I definitely want to keep it 2x, though.

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    I meant to say that the stock 190mm crank won't work, but it looks like a 170mm may if you go 1x drivetrain.
    Gotcha. Yep, that looks to be very doable.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post

    Crank........................Q..............Inner ring chainline
    Samox..........................232................ ......??
    Race Face 170 1x...........202.....................68.0
    Race Face 190 3X..........222......................70.7

    I just came across this article which explains it all far better than I could:
    Salsa Cycles

    EDIT: This one has some good info and pics on fitting 170 cranks to 190 frames:
    Tech Speak: Decoding Fatbike Hub Spacing and Drivetrain Compatibility with Wolf Tooth Components
    Dang, I should have thought to measure the chainline. I looked at the crankset and couldn't figure out an accurate way to measure it while it's off the bike without a bunch of goofing around, so I will follow up with that when I put the bike back together.

    Thanks for posting the articles. The Salsa one, especially, is just excellent.

    So I should mention that the tire that was mounted up when I measured the chain to tire clearance was a Big Fat Larry, and I pumped it up to 15+ psi to get the width reasonably up there. I just now went and measured the width and it's 103.6mm. So if I double the clearance of 12.3 and add it to the BFL width, I come up with 128mm, which is theoretically the widest tire/rim combo you could run without chain rub. For perspective, the surly chart lists the width of a Lou on a 100mm rim at 121mm.

    I'm think I'm back to my assertion that BD chose to provide clearance for the widest rim/tire combos out there by going to their component partner and having them jack up the Q. From a mass appeal perspective, chain or frame interference issues are probably way more problematic for them than a few complaints about an extra wide Q or a chain alignment setup that's getting pretty out there. Their mission is to sell a ton of cheap bikes and they have to make compromises and decisions based on rock-bottom economics to be able to do that.

    I stared at the crankset for a while this morning to see if there was any reasonable way to machine it down so I could remove the spacers. I *think* the spindle is shrunk fit into the drive-side arm, and maybe I could take it to work and get it apart and cut 20 mm off the end and put it back together, but that would leave the drive side bearing race in the wrong location. Not sure how big of a deal that would be - the race is very close in diameter to the rest of the spindle.

    At any rate, I'm just going to think about it for a while, and maybe look into inexpensive options for swapping in a different crankset. Since the bike is already torn halfway down, I'm gonna framesaver it today and put it back together and then go ride it as-is. I have very little time on it so far and I need to put a few hours in to figure out of the Q is gonna be a show-stopper. As others have said, maybe my body will adjust with some saddle time and it won't be an issue. That would be great.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).
    This is true for the widest tire/rim combos, but I think my measurements show that with a BFL on the 80, I could get away with running a 170mm crank. Even if I went to a slightly wider tire like the Lou, I might have some slight chain rub in the lowest gear, but I think I could live with that. I had light chain rub with certain tires on my 9:Zero:7 and it wasn't really that problematic. It might be reasonable tradeoff to get the Q down, for some folks.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Spovegas, thanks for the detailed feedback on the Q factor of the Samox and your detailed writeup. Did you happen to get a weight on the crankset? For reference, your fame clearance measurements are based on a 20" frame? I wonder how much crank-chainstay clearance there is on the other smaller models. There's definitely less tire clearance on the 16" vs 18" frames per posted pics here.
    watermonkey, yes, 20" frame. Here ya go . . .

    The Lurch Lounge-20140913_01.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140913_02.jpg

  14. #314
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    Tube And Tire Weights

    I weighed one of my tires at 1270g and a tube at 590. That's a really reasonable tire weight. Switching to a lighter tube, like a Q-tube, is an easy and inexpensive way to shave over a pound off of your stock lurch.

  15. #315
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    Switching to q-tubes saved 650g (1.43lbs) of rotating weight for me. For $18. That is an incredible savings to dollar ratio...
    baker

  16. #316
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    20 in large

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    I like the white accents. Is that a 20" or 22"?
    20in large

  18. #318
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    Switching to q-tubes saved 650g (1.43lbs) of rotating weight for me. For $18. That is an incredible savings to dollar ratio...
    Which q-tubes are you using?

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post

    I stared at the crankset for a while this morning to see if there was any reasonable way to machine it down so I could remove the spacers. I *think* the spindle is shrunk fit into the drive-side arm, and maybe I could take it to work and get it apart and cut 20 mm off the end and put it back together, but that would leave the drive side bearing race in the wrong location. Not sure how big of a deal that would be - the race is very close in diameter to the rest of the spindle.
    If you can press the spindle out, and you have the skills/means, I would look at taking the 20mm out of the middle of the spindle, sleeve it and TIG it, and you should be able to keep the races where they belong.

    NO clue if it's feasible or will be strong enough.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    Which q-tubes are you using?
    The 26x2.4-2.7 ones from here:

    Q-Tubes Super Light 26" Presta Tube > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tubes | Jenson USA
    baker

  21. #321
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    So, Q-Tubes or tubeless? Most people are going tubeless for weight savings, but I don't think they are losing much more than you did with the Q-Tubes. Plus it is a lot less of a hassle.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickngas View Post
    So, Q-Tubes or tubeless? Most people are going tubeless for weight savings, but I don't think they are losing much more than you did with the Q-Tubes. Plus it is a lot less of a hassle.
    I suppose it depends on your intended usage and patience / free time. We don't have lots of goat heads around here and I didn't have the patience / time to get things setup tubeless right now. Hence, my decision to go with lighter tubes rather than mess with tubeless.

    I'll probably jump on the tubeless bandwagon once I have more time and other people have really ironed out the process. :-) I also need some time and miles on the lighter q-tubes to see if they will work for me. In the past, I ran ultralight tubes for endurance races (think Leadville 100) and ended up regretting it.
    baker

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    The q superlights are great, but I've found the regular q tubes 26 x 2.4-2.7 at only 25 grams heavier per tube (280 grams) with a .9mm thickness vs .73 thickness of the q-lites, are quite a bit more durable and last much longer without developing weird leaks over time. Plus the regular q tubes are a few bucks cheaper each.

    rog

  24. #324
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    If you want lighter tubes and your running 4" tires, try a Maxxis 26 x 2.2-2.4 welterweight, it's 300 gms works great.

    As to crank width, a narrowed crank will work fine, the bb is 100mm standard, just get narrower cranks. I'm going to swap cranks because I will never run a 5" tire with a 2 x 10.

    The chain line is terrible stock, not sure what they were thinking. Perhaps 5" tires only belong with IG hubs...

  25. #325
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    I'll go tubeless, but with the amount of sealant I think it'll need I doubt it will be any lighter. It mostly comes down to thorn punctures and pinch flats.

  26. #326
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    One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?

  27. #327
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    The Lurch Lounge-wheelie.jpg
    Nathan

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    This is true for the widest tire/rim combos, but I think my measurements show that with a BFL on the 80, I could get away with running a 170mm crank. Even if I went to a slightly wider tire like the Lou, I might have some slight chain rub in the lowest gear, but I think I could live with that. I had light chain rub with certain tires on my 9:Zero:7 and it wasn't really that problematic. It might be reasonable tradeoff to get the Q down, for some folks.
    When I was re-installing the crankset, I slid it in without the driveside spacer to see how it would look, and the big chainring hit the chainstay. I didn't think to take a picture, but you can get the idea from this picture . . .

    The Lurch Lounge-20140913_06.jpg

    It wasn't a ton of interference, so possibly a smaller chainring would solve the problem. Anyway, for anyone wanting to go this route, something to be aware of.

  29. #329
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Qtubes...Two rides, 20 miles. Woke up to a flat tire this morning. Cactus spine, so tubeless would have been advantageous. Or maybe, I should just stay on the trail...



    20140914_133014 by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?
    I ride the cape quite often where thorns are everywhere. Q-lite toobz and one scoop of stanz keeps me from getting thorn flats. So not much heavier than tubeless requiring more stanz and maybe lighter compared to split tube/stanz. You don't need removable cores. You unthread the small nut, drop valve stem thingy into tube and hold it between fingers while you squirt stanz in out of a small Elmer's glue type bottle with the cap nozzle thingy sliced so that the opening has to be pressed around the presto valve shaft.

    Removable cores make it easier but only saves maybe 20-30 seconds each tube over the non removable core type.

    rog

  31. #331
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    Anyone having problems with self steering? I took the lurch out for the first time today on some fast singletrack. Started with 20 psi then gradually went down in pressure. I liked the lower pressure but as the more I dropped psi the more self steering I felt. The worst being 8psi. The faster I went the more difficult time I had turning the bike...like I lost power steering. Is this something to get used to with fat bikes or do I need to keep more psi in the front vs the back. I will keep experimenting bit just wanted some input from others.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?
    Yeah, I had a couple. Can't remember what brand they were though. I think they were giant branded tubes but I'm not 100%. Another possibility is kenda. I buy a tube, wrap it up and tape it to throw in my saddle bag.


    Thinking of trying homebrew sealant due to the amount of money it will cost me in stans

  33. #333
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    Rear hub issues

    Not sure if anyone else has had these issues but I'll post as notice to everyone:

    1. The free hub body is getting trashed by the included cassette after only about 50 miles of riding. I am buying a spidered cassette to prevent further damage. It was very hard to remove the cogs today, had to do it one by one and use a flat-tip to assist. Picture:
    The Lurch Lounge-img_20140914_155017%5B1%5D.jpg

    2. The reason I took off cassette was to investigate a strange noise from the rear hub. I did a race on Saturday (local race series had a novelty race for fat bikes) and there was a loud persistent noise from the rear hub that got louder when cornering or at higher speeds (either pedaling or coasting makes no difference). My teammate said he could hear it from at least 50ft behind me. It's hard to describe the noise but it is not a noise that rubbing tires or brakes makes (I can see that there is loads of tire clearance and I removed my caliper completely to make sure). This noise first appeared (less loudly) the day before near the end of a practice lap and I thought it was something rubbing so I checked over bike at night and made some minor adjustments. When riding on the roads around my hose Friday night before the race all seemed good and no noise was heard. Come race day the noise starts up about half a mile into the race and gets louder over time. It seems that it takes a bit of warm up for it to get noisy (tested this after race). So Today (Sunday) I pulled it apart and everything looks clean and seals are intact but the main hub bearings have some resistance/gritty-ness to them and the free hub bearings are worse. I can only assume that my bearings are defective and under load they do not spin as freely as they should.

    Note: I am a large heavy rider 6'4" ~205 lbs so when I am mashing down on the pedals up hills I probably put some high loads into the hubs but nothing that a non-ww bike should not be able to handle. I have ridden the bike for about 50 miles on trails and maybe 3 miles on roads in town. I have ridden in some mud and puddles but the seals should keep that stuff out and have not not washed bike yet and never wash my bikes with a powerful water jet.

  34. #334
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    I was getting a similar noise from the rear wheel on the inaugural ride yesterday. I noticed that the set screw on the non-drive side was loose. Tightened it and banged the wheel on the ground and the noise went away. Maybe your wheel was not centered properly?

  35. #335
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    As far as I can tell using a digital caliper the rear wheel is centered and the set screws are hand tight against the axle. If it were not centered I think the only sounds would result from brake or tire rub which I do not have.

  36. #336
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    Ouch. Better not try SS with that hub.

  37. #337
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    he
    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.

    I'm going to ride it as-is before tinkering with it to get a good baseline.

    I emailed BD as their site showed a blue 20" (which I wanted in the first place) to change frame colors. I got no email back, except tracking information which showed a black frame. I don't know what I'm going to get at this point so I'm assuming it's going to be black.

    I was going to start shopping for rimstrips and such, but I'm not so sure at this point.

    I'm getting excited, though. I love that black bike with blue accessories.
    I ordered the "last one" 20" blue on Friday morning when they posted it. I was talking with BD the day before about the Grape one somebody said they were returning. They didn't know anything about it but told me they had one blue left which they added to the site and I ordered.

    I got the confirmation email and a UPS shipping label created (though it hasn't left the warehouse yet). And their site still shows a "last one" 20" blue available.

    So not sure if there is still one left or not.

  38. #338
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    My front wheel hub came with an end cap on the disc brake side through which the fastener bolt extends through but not one on the other side of wheel hub. Is this correct? Should there be a end cap of each side of the front wheel hub?

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by fdznmstr61 View Post
    My front wheel hub came with an end cap on the disc brake side through which the fastener bolt extends through but not one on the other side of wheel hub. Is this correct? Should there be a end cap of each side of the front wheel hub?
    If you mean this cap, then yes. They can be removed if you are going to run a through axle, but are required if you are going to use a QR needle.

    The Lurch Lounge-img_8238r.jpg

  40. #340
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    Yes, that is the cap. Thanks bud.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    I ride the cape quite often where thorns are everywhere. Q-lite toobz and one scoop of stanz keeps me from getting thorn flats. So not much heavier than tubeless requiring more stanz and maybe lighter compared to split tube/stanz. You don't need removable cores. You unthread the small nut, drop valve stem thingy into tube and hold it between fingers while you squirt stanz in out of a small Elmer's glue type bottle with the cap nozzle thingy sliced so that the opening has to be pressed around the presto valve shaft.

    Removable cores make it easier but only saves maybe 20-30 seconds each tube over the non removable core type.

    rog
    This is great stuff, rog. Much appreciated.

  42. #342
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    My Lurch

    The Lurch Lounge-fat-bike-2.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-fat-bike-3.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-fat-bike.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-fat-bike-4.jpg

  43. #343
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    So after putting approx. 50-60 miles on the Lurch, I am strongly considering going 1 x 10. My only reservation on this is actually riding in the snow! I haven't ridden a fatbike in the snow yet (which is why I got this guy, winter commuter/playing around). Does anyone with some snow riding experience think that you will need the 22t inner ring? If I went 1 x 10 it would be a 32t.

    Thanks for the input!
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  44. #344
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    in my experience for snow riding you will want something smaller than the 32 up front. I would go a max of 30t up front and get a 42t for the rear. i ran with a 26t front and a 11-36t rear last year and did fine. i'll be running a 28t 11-42 this year.

  45. #345
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    My dropout wont stay put. Slammed the wheel all the way forward which works great for teh drive side not moving forward. But my problem is when Im doing extreme braking the disc slide slides back.....cant win. Any other suggestions besides tightening the skewer? Ive got it quite tight Im afraid of breaking it.
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  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    My dropout wont stay put. Slammed the wheel all the way forward which works great for teh drive side not moving forward. But my problem is when Im doing extreme braking the disc slide slides back.....cant win. Any other suggestions besides tightening the skewer? Ive got it quite tight Im afraid of breaking it.
    Removing the heavy powder coat paint from the contact surfaces of the fork ends might help, particularly from the inside. You can apply a thin coat of spray paint on the exposed metal to keep the rust at bay.

    Lubricating the cam surface on the QR will help increase the clamping force and lower the amount of force required to close the handle.

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by drmayer View Post
    in my experience for snow riding you will want something smaller than the 32 up front. I would go a max of 30t up front and get a 42t for the rear. i ran with a 26t front and a 11-36t rear last year and did fine. i'll be running a 28t 11-42 this year.
    Thanks for the advice! I was thinking the 32x36 would be enough to spin through anything! I guess Ill probably leave it with the stock setup through the first winter and go from there. I haven't shifted out of the big ring since I got it, that's what got me thinking. It would really clean up the bike without all those pieces for the front derailleur.
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  48. #348
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    I picked up some used Missions 26 x 4, they are not substantially narrower than the Snowshoes, maybe 1/2". but they are a lot shorter, so I was able to slam the wheel all the way forwward with room to spare.

    The Lurch is an agile little fatty

    Still contemplating the Bluto, not sure if I want to make it more slack, might have to splurge for an AngleSet so I have choices.

    I want 120mm!!

    I still need to move the caliper forward
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy2288 View Post
    Not sure if anyone else has had these issues but I'll post as notice to everyone:

    1. The free hub body is getting trashed by the included cassette after only about 50 miles of riding. I am buying a spidered cassette to prevent further damage. It was very hard to remove the cogs today, had to do it one by one and use a flat-tip to assist. Picture:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2. The reason I took off cassette was to investigate a strange noise from the rear hub. I did a race on Saturday (local race series had a novelty race for fat bikes) and there was a loud persistent noise from the rear hub that got louder when cornering or at higher speeds (either pedaling or coasting makes no difference). My teammate said he could hear it from at least 50ft behind me. It's hard to describe the noise but it is not a noise that rubbing tires or brakes makes (I can see that there is loads of tire clearance and I removed my caliper completely to make sure). This noise first appeared (less loudly) the day before near the end of a practice lap and I thought it was something rubbing so I checked over bike at night and made some minor adjustments. When riding on the roads around my hose Friday night before the race all seemed good and no noise was heard. Come race day the noise starts up about half a mile into the race and gets louder over time. It seems that it takes a bit of warm up for it to get noisy (tested this after race). So Today (Sunday) I pulled it apart and everything looks clean and seals are intact but the main hub bearings have some resistance/gritty-ness to them and the free hub bearings are worse. I can only assume that my bearings are defective and under load they do not spin as freely as they should.

    Note: I am a large heavy rider 6'4" ~205 lbs so when I am mashing down on the pedals up hills I probably put some high loads into the hubs but nothing that a non-ww bike should not be able to handle. I have ridden the bike for about 50 miles on trails and maybe 3 miles on roads in town. I have ridden in some mud and puddles but the seals should keep that stuff out and have not not washed bike yet and never wash my bikes with a powerful water jet.
    Could you post which spidered cassette you use that works with these hubs

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by skywardx View Post
    Could you post which spidered cassette you use that works with these hubs

    Thanks
    Was going to pick up a XT 11-36. Ideally I'd get a full spidered one but there are not many options except for or SRAMS crazy expensive cnc ones. If I still have issues after filing down the damage and using the XT then I'll get a steel free hub body to replace this super soft one.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy2288 View Post
    Was going to pick up a XT 11-36. Ideally I'd get a full spidered one but there are not many options except for or SRAMS crazy expensive cnc ones. If I still have issues after filing down the damage and using the XT then I'll get a steel free hub body to replace this super one.
    Ya many I have seen cluster the larger 3 cogs but the smaller remaining ones are still independent. I know that some of the wear that you have shown is normal and usually slows down considerably but with only 50 miles makes me wonder if its a bit premature.

    Thanks again for the reply

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywardx View Post
    Ya many I have seen cluster the larger 3 cogs but the smaller remaining ones are still independent. I know that some of the wear that you have shown is normal and usually slows down considerably but with only 50 miles makes me wonder if its a bit premature.

    Thanks again for the reply
    I would agree that is seems premature. I have used deore cassettes on alum bodies and this level of damage shows up after a few hundred miles. I can only think that since other entry level cassettes are at least pinned together they cause less damage than this one that has every cog separate. The xt has the 5 lower gears on spiders and the top 4 free. Hopefully this will reduce the damage but I think a steel body is in the future.

  53. #353
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    **
    Last edited by skywardx; 09-15-2014 at 04:29 PM.

  54. #354
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    Wrong Forum
    Last edited by pspycho; 09-15-2014 at 01:31 PM.
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  55. #355
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    The Lurch Lounge-20140914_130438.jpg

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  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by pspycho View Post
    Wrong Forum
    You should have left it up, you made some interesting points.

  57. #357
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    Looks like the price is officially $999!

    Right off the bat I would like to mention that I have been having a lot of fun with my Lurch! My personal opinion is that if you want to buy a bike that you ride all the time, through all four seasons, there are some nice options on your "name brand" bikes, and it would probably be beneficial to have the support of your LBS. For someone who just wants to have a fun time, ride in the winter and play around with a bike I think the Lurch is a pretty darn good option. The biggest thing right now I think would be a nice to have would be thru-axles. Then we wouldn't have to worry about the axle sliding on the dropouts. Honestly, Im not sure this will be as much of a problem in snow due to less traction. Everything else is manageable.
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  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    The biggest thing right now I think would be a nice to have would be thru-axles. Then we wouldn't have to worry about the axle sliding on the dropouts.
    I am not sure the new style of thru-axles and horizontal fork ends are compatible.
    This pic show how Surly (a big fan of horizontal fork ends) is doing it on the new Ice Cream Truck.

    The Lurch Lounge-surly-ice-cream-truck-013.jpg

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    I am not sure the new style of thru-axles and horizontal fork ends are compatible.
    This pic show how Surly (a big fan of horizontal fork ends) is doing it on the new Ice Cream Truck.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah, Im not sure they are either! It would just be a nice feature. NightTrain anyone? :P
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  60. #360
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    Looks like Pauls will be offering a cam style 190 QR soon.

    Quick Release Skewers from Paul Component Engineering

    The dropouts is really the only thing that bothers me about this bike. Everything else seems fine for now.
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  61. #361
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    It is not that hard to get the wheel to stay in place, there are a multitude of options, for sure the Lurch drop outs are no different than for any other bike with horizontal dropouts.

    The advantages of a horizontal drop out are the ability to adjust the wheelbase length and to run single speed without a tensioner.

    This "problem" is certainly not a significant reason to skip this bike.

    Moving my wheel forward and running 4" tires took the Lurch from turtle to rabbit, it is a fun little bike now, so for me it is a true multipurpose bike. If I had to stay with 5" tires and the longer wheelbase, I would have skipped buying a fatty.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    It is not that hard to get the wheel to stay in place, there are a multitude of options, for sure the Lurch drop outs are no different than for any other bike with horizontal dropouts.
    What was your solution? Under hard braking my still slides and I have the skewer cranked down pretty hard. I have a few bikes that are SS and I do not have the same problem. My initial thought is the force from the tire on the ground. There is a lot more friction there before sliding than a 2.1" tire!

    Im not too worried when it comes to that in the snow, but I certainly have moved the rear axle a few times riding on hard packed single track. Edit* - And I agree, its certainly not a reason to skip this bike!
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  63. #363
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    Tug nuts, spacers, normal stuff.

    You need to clean the paint off the inside and outside of the stays; don't go crazy, just clean the area that contacts the QR and hub, then clean the knurling on the friction faces to remove paint already scraped off, do this to both the hub and the QR

  64. #364
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    What was your solution?
    Tug nuts, spacers, normal stuff.

    You need to clean the paint off the inside and outside of the stays; don't go crazy, just clean the area that contacts the QR and hub, then clean the knurling on the friction faces to remove paint already scraped off, do this to both the hub and the QR.

    You can also change the QR to a thru axle, though I'm not sure who makes that sort of thing in a 190mm, but there are solid axles as well as modified skewers that can be tightened like a "nut and bolt".

    You should be able to make this thing work, I have had no problems and mine is just as it came from the factory.

  65. #365
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    Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match. Thru axle is not an option on this frame. I will try the paint scrape and see. Tugnuts are just for preventing moving forward not backwards with braking.

    Maybe carbon friction paste might work too, I read elsewhere on mtbr.
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  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match.
    And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.

  67. #367
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    And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.
    yes...it's not the bike, track bikes also have horizontal drop outs.

    If the OP really wants something to keep the axle in place, perhaps you could rig some sort of retainer using the set bolts, maybe flipping a tug bolt around?

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.
    They are moving to modular dropouts on most of their MTB/Fatbikes now. You can still get them as horizontal (SS), thru or QR. Pretty cool stuff.
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  69. #369
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    Anyone use some winter specific shoes? Any recommendations?
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  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    They are moving to modular dropouts on most of their MTB/Fatbikes now. You can still get them as horizontal (SS), thru or QR. Pretty cool stuff.
    True, and i like the idea of having choices on the same bike.
    For as much as I like horizontal fork ends (I have several single speeds and IGHs) they do make removing the rear wheel a bit more challenging.

  71. #371
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    Just ordered up a pair of Bulldozers for winter. This is gonna be good... :-)

  72. #372
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    I'm 280 and have been standing and mashing on mine without problem...same with braking. So far my dropouts have not been a problem. I did take the advice of putting some lube on the qr cam so I could get a little more bite.

    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match. Thru axle is not an option on this frame. I will try the paint scrape and see. Tugnuts are just for preventing moving forward not backwards with braking.

    Maybe carbon friction paste might work too, I read elsewhere on mtbr.

  73. #373
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    Good to hear SeaHag. I did what everyone said and removed the paint from both sides of both dropouts where the skewer clamps down. I also greased the cam on the skewer...way easier to clamp down now. Ill give it a whirl this weekend.
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    Lurch Bluto has arrived!

    Well, not exactly arrived (PrePay Ships Jan15th to30th) but looks sweet and only $300 more than now $999 reg Lurch!

    Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped

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  75. #375
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    I wonder if that is the same frame as is on the rigid Lurch or if it is a different frame.

    There was the issue with the lockout clearing the downtube. Maybe they resolved it by using a spacer on the fork.

    Either way it looks really good!

  76. #376
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    The Lurch Lounge

    They bent the down tube as seen on the CAD diagram of the product page for clearance.

  77. #377
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    So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    They bent the down tube as seen on the CAD diagram of the product page for clearance.
    Name:  10624903_10153495415039368_1398909893838253857_n.png
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    I saw that drawing, but the bike in the pic sure looks like it has a straight downtube.

    The Lurch Lounge-lurch-gry-bluto-21.jpg

    Confused rex is confused.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-lurch-yel-bluto-21.jpg  


  79. #379
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I'm sure they don't actually have the frames made yet, just spec'd out. They probably just photoshopped a fork on the original lurch pics for a sales diagram...

  80. #380
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    Yup, just checked and the new picture is a composite of the original picture of the lurch with the front fork of the "bullet" models.

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    Yup, just checked and the new picture is a composite of the original picture of the lurch with the front fork of the "bullet" models.
    The lies, until when the lies.

    well Photoshop anyways.

    That means the current Lurch is not retrofittable.

    Should be called the LurchII if it is a different frame.

  82. #382
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I don't think it would take much to make it fit though. Either a ball peen hammer to the down tube, an angleset headset, putting a small spacer below the crown race of the fork or an external bottom headset bearing... But your right, as it comes from the factory if you tried to turn over 80 you might bump the fork and down tube.

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    I don't think it would take much to make it fit though. Either a ball peen hammer to the down tube, an angleset headset, putting a small spacer below the crown race of the fork or an external bottom headset bearing... But your right, as it comes from the factory if you tried to turn over 80 you might bump the fork and down tube.
    You are right, it shouldn't be too difficult. Strangely enough I don't really want a suspension fork, i just like to have the option.

    Well a Lefty would be cool.

  84. #384
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    Get the medium

    Quote Originally Posted by Cody01 View Post
    So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?
    I'm 5'10" and the medium is almost too small. The small will be like a BMX bike.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody01 View Post
    So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?
    I am 5'9" and 30" inseam. I went with a small and it fits pretty well, if not slightly cramped, but After riding my friends Medium, I probably could have gone with that and been Ok. Torso and arms are other variables to consider, but adjustments can be made with bars, stem and seat position/height. I suggest the Medium for you.

  86. #386
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    I'm six foot, 32" inseam and an 18" fits well for reach, though the standover is enough that I'm sure a 20" would fit fine. If you like a smaller fit, go small. The bikes come with super long seat posts!

    I'm running a 45mm stem, 760mm bars, with the seat set back some, it's a quick handler for sure.

    And I got a Bluto on the way :-) pics and fit fixed to follow...

  87. #387
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    Has anyone had issues with the spacing between the rear drop outs? My bike arrived in a damaged box, with some paint chips on it, and bikesdirect quickly credited my account for the paint chips. During set up I noticed the rear quick release was on very tight - and was hard to remove- so I didn't mess with it. During the first ride - it popped open and the wheel slipped out - when I tried to put it back on- I have to force the dropouts together by leaning the bike on the ground to get the quick release skewer to fit (even then - it was super tight - and I didn't have enough for the spring, or more then one or two turns on the thread). I took it to the LBS who said the frame is more then an inch out of skew - which seems like a pretty extreme issue to be caused by shipping. They mentioned a frame builder could work on it - but I don't want to hire a frame builder to fix a new bike. Waiting for a response from bikes direct (I just emailed them).

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    Has anyone had issues with the spacing between the rear drop outs? My bike arrived in a damaged box, with some paint chips on it, and bikesdirect quickly credited my account for the paint chips. During set up I noticed the rear quick release was on very tight - and was hard to remove- so I didn't mess with it. During the first ride - it popped open and the wheel slipped out - when I tried to put it back on- I have to force the dropouts together by leaning the bike on the ground to get the quick release skewer to fit (even then - it was super tight - and I didn't have enough for the spring, or more then one or two turns on the thread). I took it to the LBS who said the frame is more then an inch out of skew - which seems like a pretty extreme issue to be caused by shipping. They mentioned a frame builder could work on it - but I don't want to hire a frame builder to fix a new bike. Waiting for a response from bikes direct (I just emailed them).

    How much larger is the space between the forks ends than the hub width? It is not an inch, or is it? I am trying to understand the difference between the fork ends being too far apart and the LBS saying the frame is "out of skew"

    A steel frame can be cold set to bring it back into shape, but it is not ideal and certainly should't need to be do to a new frame.

    Please keep up posted on the development and resolution of your problem.

  89. #389
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    I just picked it up from LBS - it's more then the rear drop outs that are out of whack. They are saying the whole back of the bike is more then an inch off. I've attached some photos that show how far the dropout's are in relation to the length of the QR skewer. If a huge amount of pressure is applied - it is possible to get the QR threaded - but not fully, and with no room for the spring. I'd really not have to do frame work on a new bike - but lets see what Bikesdirect says - all the past customer service reviews are good - so hoping they will swap this one out as well.

    Attachment 924383Attachment 924384

    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    Howr much larger is the space between the forks ends than the hub width? It is not an inch, or is it? I am trying to understand the difference between the fork ends being too far apart and the LBS saying the frame is "out of skew"

    A steel frame can be cold set to bring it back into shape, but it is not ideal and certainly should't need to be do to a new frame.

    Please keep up posted on the development and resolution of your problem.

  90. #390
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    Here is a slightly better photo- it' shows the spacing as 8.25" (210mm) - It should be 190mm.


    The Lurch Lounge-photo-1.jpg

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    I've attached some photos
    I can't see the pics. Can you check on your end?

    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    If a huge amount of pressure is applied - it is possible to get the QR threaded - but not fully, and with no room for the spring.
    One would have to believe that if it was that far off at the factory assembly they would have noticed and fixed it on the spot. It isnt a difficult fix if you are a framebuilder. Delicate and precise, yes.


    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    I'd really not have to do frame work on a new bike - but lets see what Bikesdirect says - all the past customer service reviews are good - so hoping they will swap this one out as well.
    Let us know, from the reports (and my own personal experience) so far they have been pretty good about resolving issues.

    Again keep us posted and best of luck.

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    Thanks Rex - Here is a link to the photo - photo 1.JPG : Free Image Host.

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    My response from BD below (only a few hours after I emailed!). Hopefully I'm not hit with the shipping charges and can buy a replacement Lurch at the old price.

    ---
    Hello,
    I have contacted my office and you should receive return instructions shortly.
    Best regards,
    Larry @ Bikes Direct

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    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    Here is a slightly better photo- it' shows the spacing as 8.25" (210mm) - It should be 190mm.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    BD leading the charge to the new standard of 210MM spacing to clear 6" tires!!!

    Okay, that was insensitive... I do hope you get a replacement at the same cost.

  95. #395
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    here is the lockout headset if you all upgrade to bluto. May help.
    BLOCKLOCK - ACROS

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    BD leading the charge to the new standard of 210MM spacing to clear 6" tires!!!
    Need a motor for that.

  97. #397
    mtbr member
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    "Upgraded" photo of the bent down tube on the Lurch II. Or what ever it will be called.
    Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped

  98. #398
    Live Free & Ride
    Reputation: NH Mtbiker's Avatar
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    Nov 2004
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    1,330
    The Lurch FS looks pretty sweet!
    17 Stache 29+
    17 Moto Ti gravel
    14 GT Zaskar 100 9r
    15 Moto NT fat & 27.5+

  99. #399
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    kinda crazy how many folks purchase or consider purchasing the wrong size bike........thinking that it's the correct size........

    rog

  100. #400
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    Reputation: msedbaue's Avatar
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    Went for it tonight. Rides great!

    The Lurch Lounge-photo-1-.jpg
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

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