Page 3 of 21 FirstFirst 123456713 ... LastLast
Results 201 to 300 of 2076
  1. #201
    Custom User Title
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    154
    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    OK, I got the Lurch out for a couple rides.

    The first ride was a 9 mile round trip into Keystone for an Oktoberfest Festival / Concert with the family. Lots of fun and lots of comments and sideways glances. The bike was fine on the streets and paved paths, albeit a little loud.



    @ Baker...is this pic from the Summit Cove side of Keystone?

  2. #202
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    That is a ridiculous amount of time.......

    rog

  3. #203
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    Yes, but let's not forget about the time/frustration spent setting up/seating and mess if you do get a flat. Time is money, IMO, and changing a tube if you flat is wicked easy, quick, and clean. And you can patch them to avoid buying more tubes.

    rog
    The method posted by others in the thread took me about 30 minutes from bike with tubes to tubeless. With tubeless if I get a flat I can always pop in a spare tube that I now have 2 of . Might get a little Stans on your hands but that just helps you grip the bars better.

  4. #204
    Candlestick Maker
    Reputation: baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,788
    Quote Originally Posted by oops View Post
    @ Baker...is this pic from the Summit Cove side of Keystone?
    Yes, we have a condo (partial ownership) right in Summit Cove. I've only been twice, so I have lots of exploring to do! I'm hoping the paved trails around there will be fun for snow biking in the winter...
    baker

  5. #205
    Custom User Title
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    154
    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    Yes, we have a condo (partial ownership) right in Summit Cove. I've only been twice, so I have lots of exploring to do! I'm hoping the paved trails around there will be fun for snow biking in the winter...
    looks familiar...I lived in the Cove for several years...on Sunlight down from the fire station and also at Meadow/Vail Cr. ...you will have fun up there.....also run up to Montezuma and go explore...

  6. #206
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34

    Jimz Fatty pics

    I'm lovin my Lurch!!! It rolls over everythig and gives you confidence. Lots of trees down in the forest, some I could ride over, some i had to blaze a trail through the forrest to get around and the lurch didn't hesitate once. Too much fun!!!

    Jim

    Two pics showing how super reflective my rim tape is
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-lurch-nf.jpg  

    The Lurch Lounge-lurch-flash1.jpg  


  7. #207
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rex615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    427
    The Lurch Lounge-south-mnt-creek.jpg

    Lurch pilot, up the creek.

    I am really liking this bike for the mountain trail we have in the Piedmont.
    Climbs very well and really inspires confidence when descending.

  8. #208
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    I dig the orange, Rex.

    Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

    rog

  9. #209
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post

    Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

    rog
    I'm 5'5" and prefer the seat high since I have two artificial hips. When I stand over the bike, my boys just touch the toptube.

  10. #210
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rex615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    I dig the orange, Rex.

    Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

    rog
    It is amazing that it even the same bike (Small black vs XL orange)

    The frame of the Black bike looks to me like one of the modern Observed Trials bikes, my orange frame looks almost like an old school 80's MTB.

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    32
    Speaking of the small Lurch, after riding this weekend I noticed that the front derailleur cable was wrapped around the drive side of the seat tube and not connected to the cable hanger on the back of it. I cut the cable and wrapped it around the non drive side and down, but this put the derailleur cable on such a severe angle that it interfered with shifting. I then wrapped the cable back around the drive side and used a zip tie (ugly and unclean) to connect it to the cable hanger. Below are photos of what I'm talking about.

    Does anyone have any permanent solutions (aside from welding a new hanger higher up on the seat tube and not directly behind by the tire)? Anyone else experiencing this with their small Lurch? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2467.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2469.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2470.jpg

  12. #212
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    878

    The Lurch Lounge

    Definitely an issue w / the small frame. The housing looks short from the pics which gives too sharp of an angle


    Pedaling

  13. #213
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    The Lurch Lounge-frontcable.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Hackinator View Post
    Speaking of the small Lurch, after riding this weekend I noticed that the front derailleur cable was wrapped around the drive side of the seat tube and not connected to the cable hanger on the back of it. I cut the cable and wrapped it around the non drive side and down, but this put the derailleur cable on such a severe angle that it interfered with shifting. I then wrapped the cable back around the drive side and used a zip tie (ugly and unclean) to connect it to the cable hanger. Below are photos of what I'm talking about.

    Does anyone have any permanent solutions (aside from welding a new hanger higher up on the seat tube and not directly behind by the tire)? Anyone else experiencing this with their small Lurch? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    I have an XS and moved the cable to the drive side and skipped the cable hanger.

  14. #214
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    12 miles of singletrack today. LUVIN my Lurch!!!!!! The Lurch Lounge-fattydirty.jpg

  15. #215
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmac23 View Post
    12 miles of singletrack today. LUVIN my Lurch!!!!!! Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fattydirty.jpg 
Views:	292 
Size:	273.8 KB 
ID:	921987
    Jim, the bike looks great. How hard was it to get the Moto decal off?

  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Jim, the bike looks great. How hard was it to get the Moto decal off?
    Thanks Spovegas, Actually, I cheated...covered it with a piece of black vinyl. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Also put a piece on the downtube. The metal Moto above the fork is just a sticker and peels right off.

  17. #217
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    And the "JIMZ FATTY" is just a sticker I had made at a local sign shop.

  18. #218
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by Hackinator View Post
    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    1x

    or grow.

    then go 1x

    rog

  19. #219
    djrez4
    Reputation: djrez4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    219
    Trigger pulled on a small black. Almost the same geometry as my Soul Cycles Dillinger. I wanted purple, but, although it appeared in the drop down menu, it showed sold out at checkout.

    Can't wait!

  20. #220
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gresults's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    4
    I'm thinking of purchasing a Lurch, but must admit I'm not much of a bike person so really confused about the size I should pick.. I'm 5'10" so by the chart on the site it shows a Medium 18",5'9' to 6'0" tall - The question is this a safe bet for sizing or should I be worried.

  21. #221
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MIKE157's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    176
    Oh Boy , I had ordered a med. yellow Lurch on Aug. 3 , about 2 weeks ago emailed BD to say if they have a extra orange in med. to hook me up with that instead Long story short, got a email today saying they goofed up and don't have either bike for me ! But they made me a offer on a Sturgis Bullet that I could not refuse.......Hope all you guys and gals enjoy those great looking Lurch fat bikes . Now I wait again..........

    Mike

  22. #222
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497

    20" Weight Data Point

    According to my scale, fwiw:

    The Lurch Lounge-20140908_01.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140908_02.jpg

  23. #223
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rex615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    427
    All this talk about availability of bikes in certain colors and sizes has me wondering again.

    Just how many Lurches were in that container?

    It must be interesting to see the thought process behind those decisions,
    How many of each color, how many of each size?
    Do the people who ride small frames prefer certain colors vs those that ride larger frames?
    How do they judge which color will be more popular? They did pick the colors to begin with.

    Obviously BD is good at these types of choices since most of us got what we wanted color and size wise, but then they have lots of experience.

    I am sure Joe skims this thread now and then, maybe he will chime in with some insight, just for fun.

  24. #224
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    71
    Received my yellow 22" Lurch yesterday. No good pics yet, but wanted to mention a few things. First off, the bike looks great!! The yellow is awesome, although it looks a little light in some areas, like it wasn't coated equally in places. No big deal. I had my rear derailleur cable crushed against the head tube and the cable is pulverized in one spot. I think I saw someone else had that problem too. Also, my handle bars were installed upside down. The shifters and cables were in the right locations, but everything was attached to the bars being upside down. I had to strip everything off, flip the bars, then re install everything. Kind of a pain. The first cable stop for the front derailleur was not connected, and the cable was routed incorrectly through the rear brake line, but since I had to strip everything off the bar, I routed it correctly, but now have to adjust the front derailleur. Lastly, I had a heck of a time trying to remove the rear wheel from the frame. I loosened the QR and attempted to pull the wheel straight out the back. The brake disc was getting stuck on the brake caliper. Do I just adjust the caliper up higher to allow the disc to clear it as I remove the wheel? I loosened the caliper a lot so I could remove the wheel, but don't think I should have too. Anyone else have an issue like that? Well, I am taking the wheels in to my LBS to make sure they are properly tensioned. I will get it back together again tonight and make some adjustments to the brakes and shifters.

  25. #225
    Candlestick Maker
    Reputation: baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,788
    Quote Originally Posted by oops View Post
    looks familiar...I lived in the Cove for several years...on Sunlight down from the fire station and also at Meadow/Vail Cr. ...you will have fun up there.....also run up to Montezuma and go explore...
    We are about 2 blocks from the fire station. Looking forward to the exploring. My wife got up to Montezuma on Sunday, but I ran outta time. Seems like a good place to ride/ski. :-)
    baker

  26. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    69
    Quote Originally Posted by gresults View Post
    I'm thinking of purchasing a Lurch, but must admit I'm not much of a bike person so really confused about the size I should pick.. I'm 5'10" so by the chart on the site it shows a Medium 18",5'9' to 6'0" tall - The question is this a safe bet for sizing or should I be worried.
    You and i are the same size, and i can comfortably ride 17 to 20 inch frames, 19 being my favorite. This bike doesn't appear to be lacking in seat tube or top tube length, so i would get an 18. The worst thing you want is a ton of seat post sticking out. I know other bd fatbikes run small, so search through and see what owners say.
    Suspension and gears are the bastion of the proletariat.

  27. #227
    NeedGod.com
    Reputation: Barheet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    580
    Anyone tried a wider fat tire on the Lurch? I was initially optimistic about putting a 4.8 on there, but after looking at the space between the tire and chainstays, I'm not so sure. Definitely a 100mm rim with 4.8 would be close.
    Nathan

  28. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    878

    The Lurch Lounge

    That 's why they come with. 80's. I'd like to see a Bud on the on the stock rim


    Pedaling

  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    26
    I've run the Snowshoe XL on my Lurch with the stock rims. Plenty of room. I switched back to the regular Snowshoe for summer riding because the XL's are noticeably harder to spin. I'll be putting the XL's back on for winter.

  30. #230
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    132
    Stock tires seem to ride and grip pretty well on central PA singletrack. The snowshoes measure out to 4.1' on my calipers. Just for reference, I weight 230 and run 8/10 psi F/R. If I can truly run a bluto on this, I would consider ditching my 29er HT. Bluto would make an already awesome bike even awesomer in my opinion.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
    Salsa Vaya
    Lurch Fatbike

  31. #231
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    3
    Got my bike a little while ago along with the first folks and I think so far it is well worth the money.

    I only have two main gripes but it's probably not a big deal given the minimal investment here.

    Small non issue stuff: Mine didn't come with pedals and they credited me $20, it also needed some adjustments on front and rear derailleurs as well as brakes but that's to be expected. Also, the box it shipped in was busted through in a few spots and I am sure there are some scratches on the paint... again for $899 I really don't care, seems like some folks here are pickier. Honestly I think the paint ob is pretty nice. It's going to look like it was shipped without a box in a few weeks anyways after I ride the snot out of it and it has already been crashed hard anyways.

    What I think is significant:

    1. The wheels are hard to mount up tubeless. There is no real lip for the bead to pop up and over so ghetto tubeless may be the way to go so the bead fits tight. I tried gorilla tape over the stock rim strip and the front tire I got lucky with and it popped on. The rear I can't get. Maybe it's the tire/rim combo and some other tires would work better... not sure. Either way I don't mind, i'll ghetto it or throw in some foam and be done with it.

    2. The rear brake caliper mounts seem to be welded a bit too far inboard. In other words, I couldn't get the rear caliper adjusted out away from the rotor enough. It's close as heck, but I still need a tad bit more. Even with the outboard pad of the BB7 caliper adjusted all the way out it still rubs a bit. Anyways, I ended up machining a bit off of the tab to post adapter to give me the clearance I needed to center the caliper up nicely.

    Other notes:

    I have on a 16" frame about 1/2 to 3/4" tire clearance all around on seat stays, chain stays, and seat stay gusset. The Seat tube gets a bit closer than that where the front derailleur cable mount is but that can be managed with the sliding dropouts. It'll probably be damned close if not hitting with the dropouts moved forward. Still don't care though as I like short chain stays and can manage.

    It wheelies/manuals like a boss.

  32. #232
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    I borrowed a Bud and a Lou from a buddy and threw them on the stock 80mm rims last night, just to see how they fit. There's lots of fork clearance in the front, lots of clearance at both seat and chain stays, as well as plenty of clearance at the chain, when in the lowest gear. The only place where there was interference was with the seat tube, with the adjustment screws removed and the hub slammed in the dropouts, which is where I would prefer to run it. So the adjustment screws will have to be used and the hub run farther back in the dropouts when running 4.8's.

    Based on the amount of clearance I saw, I'm guessing that 4.8's on a 100mm rim would be no problem. From reports on this forum, tire width doesn't really change a great deal between 80 and 100mm rims.

    For reference, my Lurch is a 20".

  33. #233
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    878

    The Lurch Lounge

    Good to know


    Pedaling

  34. #234
    NeedGod.com
    Reputation: Barheet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    580
    Great info, thanks guys.

    I'll second the wheelie "like a boss" statement. I was never a huge wheelie fan before, but I love wheelies on this thing. Since it's been raining nonstop since I bought it, I've been doing wheelies up and down the road every day. There's just something awesome about wheelies on a fatbike.
    Nathan

  35. #235
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rex615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I borrowed a Bud and a Lou from a buddy and threw them on the stock 80mm rims last night, just to see how they fit. There's lots of fork clearance in the front, lots of clearance at both seat and chain stays, as well as plenty of clearance at the chain, when in the lowest gear. The only place where there was interference was with the seat tube, with the adjustment screws removed and the hub slammed in the dropouts, which is where I would prefer to run it. So the adjustment screws will have to be used and the hub run farther back in the dropouts when running 4.8's.

    Based on the amount of clearance I saw, I'm guessing that 4.8's on a 100mm rim would be no problem. From reports on this forum, tire width doesn't really change a great deal between 80 and 100mm rims.

    For reference, my Lurch is a 20".
    First off, thanks for doing that and sharing. great info.

    Also, would, something like the Surly Monkey Nuts help when running a bigger tire to use instead of the stock adjustment screws?

  36. #236
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    Also, would, something like the Surly Monkey Nuts help when running a bigger tire to use instead of the stock adjustment screws?
    I was looking at those too. The only thing is that they look like they might put the wheel back too far..judging by pics Ive seen. Anyone know what the setback measurement is on these?

    EDIT: They are 14mm
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
    Salsa Vaya
    Lurch Fatbike

  37. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,675
    Quote Originally Posted by rajcoont View Post
    after a bit of tweaking and refining this eve, I have come to the conclusion my rear disc mount is a bit off, tolerances are problematic on my end as well, and what I thought was pad rub even with pads wide open turns out to be something else

    when bolts to attach to frame are tightened the whole bb7 pulls hard to right and makes outer pad hit rotor no matter what, but even worse pulls top washers directly on to rotor as well....gonna have to see of I can bed it back a bit, tried tonight without much luck...





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Did you get this resolved?

  38. #238
    Hooligan
    Reputation: dirtdawg21892's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    963

    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    Did you get this resolved?
    I had this problem on a bike I was putting together from mixed parts. I ended up machining the adapter down on the side that touches the frame. Just a few passes on the mill and it was good to go. Just a fallback if you cant get it figure out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  39. #239
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    878
    I had a 20 grey on order for a month had second thoughts and canceled. Became jealous when these started shipping and ordered a Grape. The color is great but I just don't know if i could live with it. So I declined the shipment. If anyone is looking for a 20 grape, I'd call and ask about it. Maybe they can hook you up.

  40. #240
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    200
    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    I had a 20 grey on order for a month had second thoughts and canceled. Became jealous when these started shipping and ordered a Grape. The color is great but I just don't know if i could live with it. So I declined the shipment. If anyone is looking for a 20 grape, I'd call and ask about it. Maybe they can hook you up.
    Good job. I'm sure they have nothing better to do than cater to you and your indecision.

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    878
    My indecision cost me 55 bucks, so I highly doubt they care .
    I certainly didn't have to broadcast it, just thought someone might be looking for a 'Grape'

  42. #242
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    40
    I have the black, would have loved to have that purple. Oh well.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

  43. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    23
    You woould have a hard time convincing me that the purple one doesn" kick ass!

  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    My yellow 18" Lurch arrived today, it was loosely packed, but suffered no damage. I went through the entire bike and everything was snug and preadjusted other than the brakes, even the tires were balanced and inflated. I changed to a red rim strip and red riser bars, otherwise it's stock. Honestly, having been a shop guy, I gotta say, getting a fatty for $900 that is as nice as a bike costing twice that, we'll, it makes me wonder where the rest of the money goes....

  45. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    71
    I've got a clearance issue with my front brake rotor. The rotor rubs the pad no matter how much I try to adjust it. I need to either remove the paint from inner part of disc brake tab, or machine a few thousandths off of the rotor mount. I'm hesitant to remove the paint, because it might not give me enough clearance afterwards. Any other suggestions? Oh, and the supplied washer on the disc brake rubs the rotor. I will have to look for a smaller diameter washer too.

  46. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    Adjust the pads all.the way out, make sure the cable is slack, make sure the rotor is flush on hub. Have your lbs look at it, honestly a half millimeter of paint will not make a difference

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rex615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    My yellow 18" Lurch arrived today. I changed to a red rim strip and red riser bars, otherwise it's stock.
    Lets see a pic please. I was torn between the yellow and the orange. The red rim strips should look great on the yellow bike.

    I am running a riser bar with a 40 degree sweep, what bar did you get?

  48. #248
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    I had the same brake problem as others. I used a file to remove the paint and a few thousandths of metal. You have to be careful to keep the file flat and exercise a little patience. I shot the bare metal with a thin coat of paint before remounting the caliper. Worked out great.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140909_05.jpg

    Also, here are a couple of pics showing clearance with the Bud and Lou mounted on the stock rims. Pressure is about 10 psi in both.

    The Lurch Lounge-bud.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-lou.jpg

  49. #249
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    Just pulled the trigger on a black 20" lurch. Will be my first fatbike.

    Wife was nice enough to let me get one before the price increase.

    I've got a set of raceface atlas bars and esi chunky grips for it when it arrives. I'll end up putting a tubeless setup in it as well. Eventually I'd like to get a bluto on it but I'm going to go carbon bars/seatpost and hydro brakes first. I'd like to get this pig down to 32-34lbs eventually.

    Should be a nice change from riding a 24lb xc bike, heh.

    Don't know how much winter riding I'll do in all honesty. My wife just had our 2nd kid, and she's had to take this season off of riding due to the pregnancy not being so easy on her. I'll tool around on this thing while she's re-gaining her fitness lost from taking 10 months off.

  50. #250
    NeedGod.com
    Reputation: Barheet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    580
    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    The red rim strips should look great on the yellow bike.
    You could then put on a clown outfit and go as Ronald McDonald. :-)
    Nathan

  51. #251
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    Is the down tube "motobecane" a decal or painted?

  52. #252
    Candlestick Maker
    Reputation: baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,788
    Quote Originally Posted by big boy phil View Post
    I've got a clearance issue with my front brake rotor. The rotor rubs the pad no matter how much I try to adjust it. I need to either remove the paint from inner part of disc brake tab, or machine a few thousandths off of the rotor mount. I'm hesitant to remove the paint, because it might not give me enough clearance afterwards. Any other suggestions? Oh, and the supplied washer on the disc brake rubs the rotor. I will have to look for a smaller diameter washer too.
    I had the washer rub issue, also. Grabbed a spare kid for a third hand and managed to get the washer pushed out enough while tightening to eliminate the rub. As mentioned before, I also have the disc brake alignment issue. The joys of dealing with discount mail order bikes...pretty much what I'd expect.
    baker

  53. #253
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    132
    Its Painted
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
    Salsa Vaya
    Lurch Fatbike

  54. #254
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    57
    Okay I thought I wanted a Lurch but am now unsure. Does every Lurch have this brake rotor clearance issue? Because I don't have the skills to do machining work. I pretty much need something that works out of the box with just simple adjustments that I could do myself or have a friend help me with.

  55. #255
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    This is not a great picture, natural light is so much better. The Yellow is much warmer than it appears in this picture, the red rim liner sets off nicely with the yellow, red bars look good (Kore 25mm rise). I will add some more red bling over time, red QR post clamp and red pedals.

    I am going to build some "skinny" wheels for three season use, 50mm to run some 2.75 Dirt Wizards.

    I did try to "slam" the wheel forward and due to the size of the tires, you can only get the wheel so far before the tire hits the frame. With smaller tires I could pull the wheel all the way forward. I didn't measure minimum chainstay with the current whel position, but I did pull it forward another 1/2" or so over the way it was positioned from the factory; I'm about 2/3-3/4 forward.

    It's a really nice bike, I have no complaints, other than I really wish I coudl have more than one color I especially like the look of the grey and of course the purple.

    The Lurch Lounge-kimg0601.jpg

  56. #256
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    I have had to do this sort of this on unicycle frames, but only in the early days when disc brakes were first being added; the frames were occassionally out of spec.

    Facing the caliper mountin surface should not be necessary, these frames are done in a factory under controlled conditions, if it was a problem with one frame, it'd be a problem with many frames. So far we have one frame and one fork reported, that's not a lot.

    I did notice that when I moved my wheel all the way forward, I had to readjust the brake. So make sure your pads are adjusted out as far as possible and your cable is slack.

    Keep in mind that pads can be sanded down if they are too thick.

    My Lurch was ready to ride in less than an hour, all that was needed was mounting the bars, installing the front brake and adjusting both brakes, installing the seat post, and drop the air pressure. It was so easy, they even had the gears preadjusted.

    If someone is reading this trhead and worries that they won't be able to build the bike, then just take it to your LBS and pay them $50 to assemble the bike, no biggie, it is still a great deal. Honestly, it'd be a great deal at $1400.

  57. #257
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    Its Painted
    Ugh. Not mad that it's branding, I just don't like the big decal on the downtube, not very clean. One thing I liked more about the Boris. I'm thinking of powder coating the rims white and using a white saddle to match my xc bike. We'll see how it looks in person. What are you guys using for colored rim strips? Thinking I want blue in mine. Might see if one of the guys with a fantom (comes with blue according to BD) would want to swap for the red set I'll get.

  58. #258
    Candlestick Maker
    Reputation: baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,788
    Took the Lurch out for a chunky lunch ride today. Lots of fun. Dropped 1.6 pounds by switching to the q-tubes and putting on a non qr seat post clamp that I had sitting around. BTW, 50% chance of snow showers here over night! :-)

    Here are a few pics:

    Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr

    Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr

    Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  59. #259
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Ugh. Not mad that it's branding, I just don't like the big decal on the downtube, not very clean. One thing I liked more about the Boris. I'm thinking of powder coating the rims white and using a white saddle to match my xc bike. We'll see how it looks in person. What are you guys using for colored rim strips? Thinking I want blue in mine. Might see if one of the guys with a fantom (comes with blue according to BD) would want to swap for the red set I'll get.
    I have the black Lurch and I "removed" the branding by putting a piece of black vinyl over it. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Go to a local sign store and they might even have some scraps that they can give you. The metal piece on the headtube is just a sticker which peels right off.

    As for rim strips, you can use duct tape. Or go to a hobby or fabric store and get cloth ribbon.

    I have pictures if you look at my previous posts.

  60. #260
    mtbr member
    Reputation: msedbaue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    301
    Just got back from my first single track ride. Took it on the local WORS course. Lots of stumps and roots but pretty fast with some sand pits. WHAT A BLAST! It was really fun to ride. I rode pretty hard and it held together. So, thats good!
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-1.jpg

    Loaded in the truck!
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-2.jpg

    My fix for the rear tire sliding forward and bending the stop bolts. Some stainless 4 x 10mm allen head bolts put in backward. Worked great. If I slammed it forward the tire rubbed on the front derailleur clamp. Looks really clean too.
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-3.jpg

    The only damage out of the box. Send BD an email to see if they can help, otherwise it works fine.
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-4.jpg

    Just put the red wheel strips in.
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-5.jpg
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  61. #261
    mtbr member
    Reputation: msedbaue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    301
    Also, ran the pressue at about 9-10 PSI. Still felt a bit bouncy.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  62. #262
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigVaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    591

    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    Also, ran the pressue at about 9-10 PSI. Still felt a bit bouncy.
    What size frame is that and how tall are you?
    2014 TREK FUEL EX8 29er
    2015 TREK FARLEY 6

  63. #263
    mtbr member
    Reputation: msedbaue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by BigVaz View Post
    What size frame is that and how tall are you?
    Im 6'4 got the 22".
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  64. #264
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigVaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    591

    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    Im 6'4 got the 22".
    The fit feels good? How about your inseam? Any room between the top tube & the family jewels?
    2014 TREK FUEL EX8 29er
    2015 TREK FARLEY 6

  65. #265
    mtbr member
    Reputation: msedbaue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by BigVaz View Post
    The fit feels good? How about your inseam? Any room between the top tube & the family jewels?
    The fit feels great, I actually thought it looked small and it feels smaller than my superfly and monocog. Once I rode it for a bit it feels great.

    Inseam is 34-36. About an inch or so between my business and the top tube.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  66. #266
    mtbr member
    Reputation: msedbaue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by BigVaz View Post
    What size frame is that and how tall are you?
    For comparison, my Superfly is a 21.5", the monocog is a 21" and the domane is a 60cm.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  67. #267
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    I have an 18" Lurch, 32" inseam, there is loads of room, I could easily have gotten a 20", but it doesn't feel small.

    Just got back from a couple hours mixed single and double track, played with pressures, high pressure handlesbetter but low pressure feels more cushy. The big tires are big, certainly mmore than you need for dirt.

  68. #268
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    40
    Ok gang, want to put 1x11 set up on my Lurch I just got. I want to go with a 30t in the front for now. I don't know anything about the measurements.

    Is this what I need?
    RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Ring 30t x 104 Red, Chainrings

    Also, can a few links be taken out of the chain or do I need a new chain? I thought some cheap chains could not be shortened, that is the reason I ask.

  69. #269
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    Since receiving my Lurch on Monday, I've been dinking with it after work for the last three nights. This is my first Bikesdirect purchase and it has been pretty much an experiment for me. As inexpensive as these bikes are, I was just really curious about what they were.

    For me, I have some reasonable assembly and fab skills and part of the fun of bikes is goofing around with them and understanding what they are and getting them dialed in. I never expected the Lurch to overwhelm me. My biggest hope was that it didn't underwhelm me.

    I can pretty much say, at this point, that it is what I thought it would be. It's not terrible, but it's not a super amazing value, either. It's a $900 mail order bike. There was some shipping damage and some things that needed to be fixed, and some aesthetic stuff I wanted to do.

    Tonight, I finally got it to the point that I was ready to take it for a spin.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140911_01.jpg

    The two big takeaways from that short ride are how HEAVY this bike is. I've spent the last three years riding an aluminum 9:Zero:7, which wasn't exactly light, by any means, but when you get into the 30's, it seems like a few pounds make a huge difference. It's not a show stopper, but it's kind of a big deal. I'm not interested in spending very much money making this thing lighter, that would just be throwing good money after bad.

    The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

    There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140911_02.jpg

    And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.

    I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

    Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

    BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.

    I'll keep hammering through the issues with my lurch, but I think I already know where this experiment is headed, for me, unfortunately.

    My two cents only.

  70. #270
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    18
    Got my Orange Lurch yesterday, very quick and easy assemble. No issues whatsoever, paint is nice and even, brakes work great, shifting easy and smooth. I did have a smashed brake cable housing, easy fix with some electrical tape. Loving the fatty so far...im swapping out the grips and rim strips, pics to come. BTW, if you have the orange and need pedals, the crankbros orange/black mallets on amazon are a perfect match on the color.

  71. #271
    Custom User Title
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    154

    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Since receiving my Lurch on Monday, I've been dinking with it after work for the last three nights. This is my first Bikesdirect purchase and it has been pretty much an experiment for me. As inexpensive as these bikes are, I was just really curious about what they were.

    For me, I have some reasonable assembly and fab skills and part of the fun of bikes is goofing around with them and understanding what they are and getting them dialed in. I never expected the Lurch to overwhelm me. My biggest hope was that it didn't underwhelm me.

    I can pretty much say, at this point, that it is what I thought it would be. It's not terrible, but it's not a super amazing value, either. It's a $900 mail order bike. There was some shipping damage and some things that needed to be fixed, and some aesthetic stuff I wanted to do.

    Tonight, I finally got it to the point that I was ready to take it for a spin.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20140911_01.jpg 
Views:	408 
Size:	144.2 KB 
ID:	922772

    The two big takeaways from that short ride are how HEAVY this bike is. I've spent the last three years riding an aluminum 9:Zero:7, which wasn't exactly light, by any means, but when you get into the 30's, it seems like a few pounds make a huge difference. It's not a show stopper, but it's kind of a big deal. I'm not interested in spending very much money making this thing lighter, that would just be throwing good money after bad.

    The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

    There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20140911_02.jpg 
Views:	256 
Size:	141.9 KB 
ID:	922773

    And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.

    I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

    Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

    BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.

    I'll keep hammering through the issues with my lurch, but I think I already know where this experiment is headed, for me, unfortunately.

    My two cents only.
    **Sorry to copy the whole thing..working on my phone...

    Can we get a couple pics of the drive side crank and clearance to the tire and chain stay. ....could you measure the Q factor. .that crank arm to stay looks really wide..

    sent from my GS3 with my thumbs

  72. #272
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    132
    Axle length on these are 120mm. There is a 10mm spacer on each side of the BB shell. Wonder if these can be removed..there appears to be plenty of clearance between crank and chainstays, at least on my 20" lurch.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
    Salsa Vaya
    Lurch Fatbike

  73. #273
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmac23 View Post
    I have the black Lurch and I "removed" the branding by putting a piece of black vinyl over it. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Go to a local sign store and they might even have some scraps that they can give you. The metal piece on the headtube is just a sticker which peels right off.

    As for rim strips, you can use duct tape. Or go to a hobby or fabric store and get cloth ribbon.

    I have pictures if you look at my previous posts.
    I saw that you used vinyl. I work at a high end automotive dealership where we have a pretty extensive graphics department. I have a good relationship with the guys there, so they save me scraps of paint protective film (aka clearbra) to use on my cranks/frames and they also have a vinyl printer. Was thinking of having them do an argyle or flannel pattern for the downtube / top tube and matching the rim strips to it. I need to check to see what vinyl fabric, ribbon or tape I can find with the pattern that I'd like.



    spovegas - The pictures of that q-factor are pretty bad. I didn't even think of that, to be honest. I just put a narrow q-factor crank on my XC bike yesterday and took it for a test ride and loved it. Will be interesting to see how I do with the fatbike. I don't think you're being a killjoy or destructive when you're pointing out obvious flaws with a bike you've purchased and obviously spent some time setting up.

    The killjoys are the folks that don't have one of these bikes, have never ridden one and then spew hate about it.

    Do you think you can remove those spacers or swap the crank for a narrower q-factor by chance?

    I experienced my first bikesdirect hate yesterday, when I went to the LBS that's closest to my house. (not the one I'm known at, that one is a 45 min drive for me). I haven't even got the bike yet.

    I went to get a chain whip, some stans and shifter cables. I was with my 3 year old son who is obsessed with monster trucks. Obviously he gravitated to the fat bike they had on display which was a charge bike. I was looking at the offset lacing and the narrower hub arrangement (the main reason I ruled the charge out of my to buy list) while he was looking at it.

    The employee came over and asked me what I was looking for and asked me if I was thinking of getting one. I told him I had a fatbike on order that should be here next week. When he asked what I bought, and I told him you could see that he tried to keep quiet about it but he had a look on his face of "ew". He got me my bottle of stans and found the chain whip and cable and just dropped the discussion.

    He ended up talking to me about my other bike and the kind of riding I do and ended up being pretty cool in the end. Just kind of took me by surprise with the hate.

  74. #274
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    I've got a spare threaded XTR BB from the crank I just put on my XC bike (pf30). When I get mine I'll take the crank apart, put the XTR BB in and check to see if I can take the spacers out... assuming no one else does it before I get my bike.

  75. #275
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by oops View Post
    Can we get a couple pics of the drive side crank and clearance to the tire and chain stay
    Here ya go. This is with the stock tire. If you go back to post 248, you can see the clearance with a Bud.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_01.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    There is a 10mm spacer on each side of the BB shell. Wonder if these can be removed..
    That's my plan for this weekend - see what I can do with the spacers. On the non-drive side, I'm hoping it will be pretty straightforward. Just completely remove or turn down the spacer. On the drive side, it will be more interesting. I want chain clearance for 5" tires, so I'll throw a big fat larry on the rear wheel and measure the clearance and reduce the spacer thickness accordingly. But I'll also have to figure out some way to reduce the thickness of the derailleur spacer. That will probably involve making a new one from a block of aluminum, or something.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_02.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_03.jpg

  76. #276
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MUSTCLIME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I had the same brake problem as others. I used a file to remove the paint and a few thousandths of metal. You have to be careful to keep the file flat and exercise a little patience. I shot the bare metal with a thin coat of paint before remounting the caliper. Worked out great.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20140909_05.jpg 
Views:	276 
Size:	118.6 KB 
ID:	922605
    I am sure it is me but this does not look strong. I really hope I am wrong.....good info btw.
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  77. #277
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,899
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post

    The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

    There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.

    And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.
    As far as I can tell, the Lurch is following "industry standards" on this one(if such a thing exists in fat bike land). I don't see how you can turn down the spacers, since the spline on the crank spindle is only slightly deeper than what is necessary to work with the existing setup. What's driving this is the chainline necessary to fit a 5" tire with a 2x ring setup.

    If you look at the Race Face setup table for a 190mm rear end, you need the following:
    100mm BB
    1 DS BB spacer
    2 NDS BB spacers
    1 11.5mm spindle spacer per side
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf

    While I certainly agree BD is not a market innovator, the Q-factor on the Lurch is just a product of having a symmetrical 190mm rear end.

  78. #278
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    The Q is no big deal, granted it's wide, but it's not so wide as to cause a problem for someone unless you are knocked knee and skinny like a little girl

    Seriously, I have played with Q for a long time, it is a much bigger deal on one wheel, yet I still found that it was not a problem to adjust.

    In the case of the Lurch, I do believe that the spacers could be removed from the crank, though it'd require a new BB, but it looks like there is enough space to run 4" tires with no problem, maybe five inch if you offset the crank or space out the chain rings.

    I took the maiden voyage yesterday, two hours of cranking, and even my notoriously sensitive hips and knees bothered me not.

    In terms of heel strike on the chain stays, there is none, that's me with a sz 13-14 running platforms.

    I do think that having so many hub width standards is a problem, but it's just the way it is until things settle out in the industry. It's not like "we" can do anything about it.

    As to what you get for $900 being "about what you should expect", that is pure nonsense. This is a great deal, unless you are a weight weenie and ride a Moots, simply put: This is a lot of bike for the money. Compare this bike to what you get in a hardtail 29er from a company like Redline or Raleigh, same quality, but with BikeDirect you get more for your money.

    If you are used to riding high end bikes, then why in the world would you "splurge" on a mail order bike, and then come here and complain, really...

  79. #279
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The Q is no big deal, granted it's wide, but it's not so wide as to cause a problem for someone unless you are knocked knee and skinny like a little girl

    If you are used to riding high end bikes, then why in the world would you "splurge" on a mail order bike, and then come here and complain, really...
    This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. For those of us with bad knees, q factor is the difference between pain and riding for 1 mile, or being able to ride for 5 hours. If my seatpost is 10mm too low I get knee pain to the point of limping after I'm done riding.

    Fatbikes to some are a novelty and a second bike, hence the "splurge" on something not necessary. When you spend $900 on something you have certain expectations, sure. The point of this discussion is to make the $900 is well spent in our minds and if there is issues, some of us like to solve them.


    If the main issue with removing crank spacers is the FD, then I might just throw a narrow wide on it and swap it to 1x10. If I can do a 5" tire in front and a 4" tire in the rear I think it will more than suffice. I really don't want to go to a 1x setup at if all possible, though.

    I put 800 miles on a narrow wide setup this year and in that mileage I ran through 2 xt cassettes, 2 11t cogs (on top of the cassettes) and about 4 chains. I'm about 175lbs and don't think I was that hard on the setup. I just swapped back to a 2x10 setup on my xc bike for that reason alone. I don't think I'll put enough miles on the fatbike to shred drivetrain componets like I have with the XC bike.

    Haven't recieved a tracking number from BD yet, so I emailed them. Hopefully they're able to give me an ETA.

  80. #280
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimmac23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    I saw that you used vinyl. I work at a high end automotive dealership where we have a pretty extensive graphics department. I have a good relationship with the guys there, so they save me scraps of paint protective film (aka clearbra) to use on my cranks/frames and they also have a vinyl printer. Was thinking of having them do an argyle or flannel pattern for the downtube / top tube and matching the rim strips to it. I need to check to see what vinyl fabric, ribbon or tape I can find with the pattern that I'd like
    Hey Utahbikemike, that sounds pretty cool. I really like to personalize my stuff. Try to make my ride one-of-a-kind.

  81. #281
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    BD just emailed me. Guess they needed an extra security step since my billing address and my shipping address didn't match. I can appreciate extra security, so a thumbs up to them so far. (even though it might cost an extra day for delivery from my original order date).

  82. #282
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    132
    The wide q factor bothered me the first mile or 2 of the first ride. But after that, i really didnt notice. Maybe its because you're constantly changing your body position (leaning, standing, sitting, etc) while mt bikin'. I almost feel like the wide q factor helps turning..there'a a lot of bike to lean into the turn so the wider stance gives your body more leverage...I dunno thats my theory and thats how it feels to me. Pedal striking happens a lot more on this bike compared to me 29er but thats the only downside...a small one. Still, Im extremely satisfied with my Lurch.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
    Salsa Vaya
    Lurch Fatbike

  83. #283
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    As far as I can tell, the Lurch is following "industry standards" on this one(if such a thing exists in fat bike land). I don't see how you can turn down the spacers, since the spline on the crank spindle is only slightly deeper than what is necessary to work with the existing setup. What's driving this is the chainline necessary to fit a 5" tire with a 2x ring setup.

    If you look at the Race Face setup table for a 190mm rear end, you need the following:
    100mm BB
    1 DS BB spacer
    2 NDS BB spacers
    1 11.5mm spindle spacer per side
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf

    While I certainly agree BD is not a market innovator, the Q-factor on the Lurch is just a product of having a symmetrical 190mm rear end.
    Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.

  84. #284
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    71
    Just a quick update for my front brake clearance issues. I filed/sanded a bit of the disc tab mounting bracket, and used smaller washers and was able to eliminate the rubbing. Quick ride in the parking lot was fun. Wontr be able to ride till the weekend, but I'm sure I ain't have any further issues.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

  85. #285
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    40

    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
    Ok gang, want to put 1x11 set up on my Lurch I just got. I want to go with a 30t in the front for now. I don't know anything about the measurements.

    Is this what I need?
    RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Ring 30t x 104 Red, Chainrings

    Also, can a few links be taken out of the chain or do I need a new chain? I thought some cheap chains could not be shortened, that is the reason I ask.
    Anyone?

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

  86. #286
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,899
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.
    Good luck and thank you for your in depth feedback/pics. I have a Night Train on order and will be dealing with this myself soon enough.

  87. #287
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,899
    Quote Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
    Anyone?
    First, I assume you mean 1x10 and not 1x11. I can't find any specs on the Samox crank, but it looks to have a standard 104mm hole pattern. The 104mm BCD cranks aren't designed to go smaller than 32t. The 30t rings add some thickness to them to space it away from the crank arms and allow clearance. They also thread the ring itself instead of using bolts/nuts. You may need to pick up some new hardware depending on what you've got:
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T...LITY_CHART.pdf

    After you've got that sorted out, you just remove the small ring/front derailleur/shifter. Pretty much any chain can be shortened. The BD spec sheet says it comes with a KMC, which typically uses a removable master link. If that's the case, unsnap the master link and remove however many links you'd like. If not, you'll need to pick up a master link of your choice and then shorten it.

  88. #288
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,202
    "This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. "

    Mike, if you don't like my positive attitude, then you don't have to read it. All I did was refute what the negative that another poster wrote.

    To repeat:

    I have hip and knee problems like most people over forty, and the wide Q on the Lurch caused me no discomfort.

    I have owned many bikes over the years and the quality of this bike is what one should expect from this level of bike, but the price we are paying is far less that we'd be paying at a bike store.

    I have no issue with a scratch, a bent rotor, having to assemble a bike, or having an ugly decal, it's all easily fixable or ignorable.

    All in, my POSITIVE attitude toward BikesDirect is that they are offering a decent product, at a decent price, for folks who don't want to blow a ton of cash on a bike that is for many a "seasonal" use.

    Also, I don't drink with my bike, I drink with my wife

  89. #289
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,899
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.
    One other thought while you're digging into this: could you try to measure the Q-factor as it's noted in the Race Face drawing? If you have the NDS crank arm off and are able to mount it as shown in the drawing, it should be easy to measure. Otherwise, you'll have to get a little more creative and measure to a spoke/rotate cranks/measure other side.

    Thanks!

    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf

  90. #290
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    One other thought while you're digging into this: could you try to measure the Q-factor as it's noted in the Race Face drawing? If you have the NDS crank arm off and are able to mount it as shown in the drawing, it should be easy to measure. Otherwise, you'll have to get a little more creative and measure to a spoke/rotate cranks/measure other side.

    Thanks!

    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf
    Will do.

  91. #291
    djrez4
    Reputation: djrez4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    219
    Bike arrived today.

    Shipping issues - UPS held the bike as a shipping "Exception" because the claimed weight was lower than the actual weight. It arrived on time, but there was a moment of fear that the bike wouldn't arrive in time to ride today on our first snow of the season.

    Box arrived mostly intact. There were a few punctures in the cardboard - none in important places. No damage to the frame or other parts.

    Assembly went smoothly. The front brake went on perfectly with no fiddling. I had to readjust the rear brake and tighten the bolts that hold the adapter to frame. Spokes could use some tension here and there, but the wheels are true.

    I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of the no-name cockpit components. They feel better than they looked online. However, the aluminum in the stem is super soft. The lock washer snagged on the stem face while tightening and took some of the metal off with almost no effort.

    Tires were hyper-inflated. I didn't have a tire gauge, but I'd estimate they were at at least 35psi in the box. That may be related to the altitude up here (7700' ASL). I let a bunch of air out. Surprise - the Snowshoes are "tubeless ready!" I'll be doing the conversion next week, using this tape and Orange Seal's winter sauce.

    Only other things that need immediate attention - I'm going to flip the stem and move the seat back a tiny bit. Reflectors will be removed and spoke guard destroyed. Otherwise, she's ready to ride.


  92. #292
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    471
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    "This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. "

    Mike, if you don't like my positive attitude, then you don't have to read it.
    If that's you being positive I bet you're a lot of fun to be around. You called me a "knock'd knee'd skinny girl" that "splurged on a mail order bike and complained about it."

    Unfortunately I do need to read it, to read the thread, unless you're on ignore.

    Moving on,

    Got my shipping conformation. Will be here Thursday next week. Will be a long week unfortunately.

  93. #293
    Candlestick Maker
    Reputation: baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,788
    Put on some Answer Carbon 20/20 Enduro bars and some ESI Chunky grips. Feeling dialed in now and ready for the snow. BTW, I haven't had any issues with the wider q-factor yet, but will keep a lookout for problems (I've already had multiple knee surgeries, but don't feel overly sensitive to q-factor).

    P9120002 by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  94. #294
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rex615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    427

    Q Factor

    This is my first experience with fatbikes and most of my mileage this season has been on a super narrow Q factor track bike. I did have some trepidation about the wide Q factor of fatbikes in general and specially about the 190mm bikes like the Lurch.

    The first few times on my Lurch, it felt like I was ridding a horse, not necessarily uncomfortable, just really weird. That feeling quickly subsided and now I don't even notice it. I have ridden my Lurch exclusively since I got it, so perhaps when I swap back and forth with other bikes I might notice it again.

    Fortunately I have had no unusual knee pain. I do have a bit of a trick knee but this bike doesn't exacerbate it. Mashing on a fixed gear bike does sometimes, especially in the hills. I have been told people over 50 should ride fixies, I do anyways.

    I am really enjoying this bike.

  95. #295
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    40
    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    First, I assume you mean 1x10 and not 1x11. I can't find any specs on the Samox crank, but it looks to have a standard 104mm hole pattern. The 104mm BCD cranks aren't designed to go smaller than 32t. The 30t rings add some thickness to them to space it away from the crank arms and allow clearance. They also thread the ring itself instead of using bolts/nuts. You may need to pick up some new hardware depending on what you've got:
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T...LITY_CHART.pdf

    After you've got that sorted out, you just remove the small ring/front derailleur/shifter. Pretty much any chain can be shortened. The BD spec sheet says it comes with a KMC, which typically uses a removable master link. If that's the case, unsnap the master link and remove however many links you'd like. If not, you'll need to pick up a master link of your choice and then shorten it.
    Thank you very much.

    The cranks on the Lurch have a 4.5mm thick spacer. I will be ordering a 30t nw front ring soon.

  96. #296
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    900 bux? Killer. It's a bike like any other. Just a better deal than most. Ride n smile

    rog

  97. #297
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,133

    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

    Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

    BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.
    Very well said.

  98. #298
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spovegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    497

    Lurch Q And BB Details

    Need to issue a nerd alert: The following will appeal to about 0.2% of the readers here, but for the other 5 of you guys, I hope it's helpful.

    This thread has pretty much digressed to the emotional BD-thread norm, but there are a few really good guys who are are currently involved in the discussion:

    car_nut (top 'o the list)
    Utahbikemike
    ultraspontane
    Ufdah

    and others

    You good guys make it wortwhile to go to the following trouble. Happy trails and tailwinds and all that. Hope it's all self-explanatory. If not, hit me up.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_01.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_02.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_03.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_04.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_05.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_06.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_07.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_08.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_09.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_10.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_11.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_12.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_13.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_14.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_15.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_16.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_17.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_18.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_19.jpg

  99. #299
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,899
    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Need to issue a nerd alert: The following will appeal to about 0.2% of the readers here, but for the other 5 of you guys, I hope it's helpful.
    This is most excellent {pushes taped glasses onto bridge of nose}

    So it looks like the Samox cranks have a Q of about 232mm. The Race Face Turbines are 222mm. So, certainly some room for improvement there from a design perspective. It looks like if you went to a 1x 170mm crank you wouldn't completely ruin the chainline, but a 2x is definitely out. There's definitely frame clearance for a 170mm set, but I don't know if foot/heel clearance becomes an issue.

    Crank........................Q..............Inner ring chainline
    Samox..........................232................ ......??
    Race Face 170 1x...........202.....................68.0
    Race Face 190 3X..........222......................70.7


    I just came across this article which explains it all far better than I could:
    Salsa Cycles

    EDIT: This one has some good info and pics on fitting 170 cranks to 190 frames:
    Tech Speak: Decoding Fatbike Hub Spacing and Drivetrain Compatibility with Wolf Tooth Components

  100. #300
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    18
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-20140912_152902.jpg  


Page 3 of 21 FirstFirst 123456713 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. motobecane lurch versus surly pugsley
    By AdventureRider in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 07-29-2014, 07:51 AM
  2. cane creek lounge is open!
    By david8613 in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-09-2012, 08:18 PM

Members who have read this thread: 93

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2018 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.