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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    OK, I got the Lurch out for a couple rides.

    The first ride was a 9 mile round trip into Keystone for an Oktoberfest Festival / Concert with the family. Lots of fun and lots of comments and sideways glances. The bike was fine on the streets and paved paths, albeit a little loud.



    @ Baker...is this pic from the Summit Cove side of Keystone?

  2. #202
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    That is a ridiculous amount of time.......

    rog

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    Yes, but let's not forget about the time/frustration spent setting up/seating and mess if you do get a flat. Time is money, IMO, and changing a tube if you flat is wicked easy, quick, and clean. And you can patch them to avoid buying more tubes.

    rog
    The method posted by others in the thread took me about 30 minutes from bike with tubes to tubeless. With tubeless if I get a flat I can always pop in a spare tube that I now have 2 of . Might get a little Stans on your hands but that just helps you grip the bars better.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by oops View Post
    @ Baker...is this pic from the Summit Cove side of Keystone?
    Yes, we have a condo (partial ownership) right in Summit Cove. I've only been twice, so I have lots of exploring to do! I'm hoping the paved trails around there will be fun for snow biking in the winter...
    baker

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    Yes, we have a condo (partial ownership) right in Summit Cove. I've only been twice, so I have lots of exploring to do! I'm hoping the paved trails around there will be fun for snow biking in the winter...
    looks familiar...I lived in the Cove for several years...on Sunlight down from the fire station and also at Meadow/Vail Cr. ...you will have fun up there.....also run up to Montezuma and go explore...

  6. #206
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    Jimz Fatty pics

    I'm lovin my Lurch!!! It rolls over everythig and gives you confidence. Lots of trees down in the forest, some I could ride over, some i had to blaze a trail through the forrest to get around and the lurch didn't hesitate once. Too much fun!!!

    Jim

    Two pics showing how super reflective my rim tape is
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-lurch-nf.jpg  

    The Lurch Lounge-lurch-flash1.jpg  


  7. #207
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    The Lurch Lounge-south-mnt-creek.jpg

    Lurch pilot, up the creek.

    I am really liking this bike for the mountain trail we have in the Piedmont.
    Climbs very well and really inspires confidence when descending.

  8. #208
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    I dig the orange, Rex.

    Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

    rog

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post

    Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

    rog
    I'm 5'5" and prefer the seat high since I have two artificial hips. When I stand over the bike, my boys just touch the toptube.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    I dig the orange, Rex.

    Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

    rog
    It is amazing that it even the same bike (Small black vs XL orange)

    The frame of the Black bike looks to me like one of the modern Observed Trials bikes, my orange frame looks almost like an old school 80's MTB.

  11. #211
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    Speaking of the small Lurch, after riding this weekend I noticed that the front derailleur cable was wrapped around the drive side of the seat tube and not connected to the cable hanger on the back of it. I cut the cable and wrapped it around the non drive side and down, but this put the derailleur cable on such a severe angle that it interfered with shifting. I then wrapped the cable back around the drive side and used a zip tie (ugly and unclean) to connect it to the cable hanger. Below are photos of what I'm talking about.

    Does anyone have any permanent solutions (aside from welding a new hanger higher up on the seat tube and not directly behind by the tire)? Anyone else experiencing this with their small Lurch? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2467.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2469.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-imag2470.jpg

  12. #212
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Definitely an issue w / the small frame. The housing looks short from the pics which gives too sharp of an angle


    Pedaling

  13. #213
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    The Lurch Lounge-frontcable.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Hackinator View Post
    Speaking of the small Lurch, after riding this weekend I noticed that the front derailleur cable was wrapped around the drive side of the seat tube and not connected to the cable hanger on the back of it. I cut the cable and wrapped it around the non drive side and down, but this put the derailleur cable on such a severe angle that it interfered with shifting. I then wrapped the cable back around the drive side and used a zip tie (ugly and unclean) to connect it to the cable hanger. Below are photos of what I'm talking about.

    Does anyone have any permanent solutions (aside from welding a new hanger higher up on the seat tube and not directly behind by the tire)? Anyone else experiencing this with their small Lurch? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    I have an XS and moved the cable to the drive side and skipped the cable hanger.

  14. #214
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    12 miles of singletrack today. LUVIN my Lurch!!!!!! The Lurch Lounge-fattydirty.jpg

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmac23 View Post
    12 miles of singletrack today. LUVIN my Lurch!!!!!! Click image for larger version. 

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    Jim, the bike looks great. How hard was it to get the Moto decal off?

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Jim, the bike looks great. How hard was it to get the Moto decal off?
    Thanks Spovegas, Actually, I cheated...covered it with a piece of black vinyl. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Also put a piece on the downtube. The metal Moto above the fork is just a sticker and peels right off.

  17. #217
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    And the "JIMZ FATTY" is just a sticker I had made at a local sign shop.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hackinator View Post
    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    1x

    or grow.

    then go 1x

    rog

  19. #219
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    Trigger pulled on a small black. Almost the same geometry as my Soul Cycles Dillinger. I wanted purple, but, although it appeared in the drop down menu, it showed sold out at checkout.

    Can't wait!

  20. #220
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    I'm thinking of purchasing a Lurch, but must admit I'm not much of a bike person so really confused about the size I should pick.. I'm 5'10" so by the chart on the site it shows a Medium 18",5'9' to 6'0" tall - The question is this a safe bet for sizing or should I be worried.

  21. #221
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    Oh Boy , I had ordered a med. yellow Lurch on Aug. 3 , about 2 weeks ago emailed BD to say if they have a extra orange in med. to hook me up with that instead Long story short, got a email today saying they goofed up and don't have either bike for me ! But they made me a offer on a Sturgis Bullet that I could not refuse.......Hope all you guys and gals enjoy those great looking Lurch fat bikes . Now I wait again..........

    Mike

  22. #222
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    20" Weight Data Point

    According to my scale, fwiw:

    The Lurch Lounge-20140908_01.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140908_02.jpg

  23. #223
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    All this talk about availability of bikes in certain colors and sizes has me wondering again.

    Just how many Lurches were in that container?

    It must be interesting to see the thought process behind those decisions,
    How many of each color, how many of each size?
    Do the people who ride small frames prefer certain colors vs those that ride larger frames?
    How do they judge which color will be more popular? They did pick the colors to begin with.

    Obviously BD is good at these types of choices since most of us got what we wanted color and size wise, but then they have lots of experience.

    I am sure Joe skims this thread now and then, maybe he will chime in with some insight, just for fun.

  24. #224
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    Received my yellow 22" Lurch yesterday. No good pics yet, but wanted to mention a few things. First off, the bike looks great!! The yellow is awesome, although it looks a little light in some areas, like it wasn't coated equally in places. No big deal. I had my rear derailleur cable crushed against the head tube and the cable is pulverized in one spot. I think I saw someone else had that problem too. Also, my handle bars were installed upside down. The shifters and cables were in the right locations, but everything was attached to the bars being upside down. I had to strip everything off, flip the bars, then re install everything. Kind of a pain. The first cable stop for the front derailleur was not connected, and the cable was routed incorrectly through the rear brake line, but since I had to strip everything off the bar, I routed it correctly, but now have to adjust the front derailleur. Lastly, I had a heck of a time trying to remove the rear wheel from the frame. I loosened the QR and attempted to pull the wheel straight out the back. The brake disc was getting stuck on the brake caliper. Do I just adjust the caliper up higher to allow the disc to clear it as I remove the wheel? I loosened the caliper a lot so I could remove the wheel, but don't think I should have too. Anyone else have an issue like that? Well, I am taking the wheels in to my LBS to make sure they are properly tensioned. I will get it back together again tonight and make some adjustments to the brakes and shifters.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by oops View Post
    looks familiar...I lived in the Cove for several years...on Sunlight down from the fire station and also at Meadow/Vail Cr. ...you will have fun up there.....also run up to Montezuma and go explore...
    We are about 2 blocks from the fire station. Looking forward to the exploring. My wife got up to Montezuma on Sunday, but I ran outta time. Seems like a good place to ride/ski. :-)
    baker

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by gresults View Post
    I'm thinking of purchasing a Lurch, but must admit I'm not much of a bike person so really confused about the size I should pick.. I'm 5'10" so by the chart on the site it shows a Medium 18",5'9' to 6'0" tall - The question is this a safe bet for sizing or should I be worried.
    You and i are the same size, and i can comfortably ride 17 to 20 inch frames, 19 being my favorite. This bike doesn't appear to be lacking in seat tube or top tube length, so i would get an 18. The worst thing you want is a ton of seat post sticking out. I know other bd fatbikes run small, so search through and see what owners say.
    Suspension and gears are the bastion of the proletariat.

  27. #227
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    Anyone tried a wider fat tire on the Lurch? I was initially optimistic about putting a 4.8 on there, but after looking at the space between the tire and chainstays, I'm not so sure. Definitely a 100mm rim with 4.8 would be close.
    Nathan

  28. #228
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    The Lurch Lounge

    That 's why they come with. 80's. I'd like to see a Bud on the on the stock rim


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  29. #229
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    I've run the Snowshoe XL on my Lurch with the stock rims. Plenty of room. I switched back to the regular Snowshoe for summer riding because the XL's are noticeably harder to spin. I'll be putting the XL's back on for winter.

  30. #230
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    Stock tires seem to ride and grip pretty well on central PA singletrack. The snowshoes measure out to 4.1' on my calipers. Just for reference, I weight 230 and run 8/10 psi F/R. If I can truly run a bluto on this, I would consider ditching my 29er HT. Bluto would make an already awesome bike even awesomer in my opinion.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
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    Got my bike a little while ago along with the first folks and I think so far it is well worth the money.

    I only have two main gripes but it's probably not a big deal given the minimal investment here.

    Small non issue stuff: Mine didn't come with pedals and they credited me $20, it also needed some adjustments on front and rear derailleurs as well as brakes but that's to be expected. Also, the box it shipped in was busted through in a few spots and I am sure there are some scratches on the paint... again for $899 I really don't care, seems like some folks here are pickier. Honestly I think the paint ob is pretty nice. It's going to look like it was shipped without a box in a few weeks anyways after I ride the snot out of it and it has already been crashed hard anyways.

    What I think is significant:

    1. The wheels are hard to mount up tubeless. There is no real lip for the bead to pop up and over so ghetto tubeless may be the way to go so the bead fits tight. I tried gorilla tape over the stock rim strip and the front tire I got lucky with and it popped on. The rear I can't get. Maybe it's the tire/rim combo and some other tires would work better... not sure. Either way I don't mind, i'll ghetto it or throw in some foam and be done with it.

    2. The rear brake caliper mounts seem to be welded a bit too far inboard. In other words, I couldn't get the rear caliper adjusted out away from the rotor enough. It's close as heck, but I still need a tad bit more. Even with the outboard pad of the BB7 caliper adjusted all the way out it still rubs a bit. Anyways, I ended up machining a bit off of the tab to post adapter to give me the clearance I needed to center the caliper up nicely.

    Other notes:

    I have on a 16" frame about 1/2 to 3/4" tire clearance all around on seat stays, chain stays, and seat stay gusset. The Seat tube gets a bit closer than that where the front derailleur cable mount is but that can be managed with the sliding dropouts. It'll probably be damned close if not hitting with the dropouts moved forward. Still don't care though as I like short chain stays and can manage.

    It wheelies/manuals like a boss.

  32. #232
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    I borrowed a Bud and a Lou from a buddy and threw them on the stock 80mm rims last night, just to see how they fit. There's lots of fork clearance in the front, lots of clearance at both seat and chain stays, as well as plenty of clearance at the chain, when in the lowest gear. The only place where there was interference was with the seat tube, with the adjustment screws removed and the hub slammed in the dropouts, which is where I would prefer to run it. So the adjustment screws will have to be used and the hub run farther back in the dropouts when running 4.8's.

    Based on the amount of clearance I saw, I'm guessing that 4.8's on a 100mm rim would be no problem. From reports on this forum, tire width doesn't really change a great deal between 80 and 100mm rims.

    For reference, my Lurch is a 20".

  33. #233
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    The Lurch Lounge

    Good to know


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  34. #234
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    Great info, thanks guys.

    I'll second the wheelie "like a boss" statement. I was never a huge wheelie fan before, but I love wheelies on this thing. Since it's been raining nonstop since I bought it, I've been doing wheelies up and down the road every day. There's just something awesome about wheelies on a fatbike.
    Nathan

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I borrowed a Bud and a Lou from a buddy and threw them on the stock 80mm rims last night, just to see how they fit. There's lots of fork clearance in the front, lots of clearance at both seat and chain stays, as well as plenty of clearance at the chain, when in the lowest gear. The only place where there was interference was with the seat tube, with the adjustment screws removed and the hub slammed in the dropouts, which is where I would prefer to run it. So the adjustment screws will have to be used and the hub run farther back in the dropouts when running 4.8's.

    Based on the amount of clearance I saw, I'm guessing that 4.8's on a 100mm rim would be no problem. From reports on this forum, tire width doesn't really change a great deal between 80 and 100mm rims.

    For reference, my Lurch is a 20".
    First off, thanks for doing that and sharing. great info.

    Also, would, something like the Surly Monkey Nuts help when running a bigger tire to use instead of the stock adjustment screws?

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    Also, would, something like the Surly Monkey Nuts help when running a bigger tire to use instead of the stock adjustment screws?
    I was looking at those too. The only thing is that they look like they might put the wheel back too far..judging by pics Ive seen. Anyone know what the setback measurement is on these?

    EDIT: They are 14mm
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  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajcoont View Post
    after a bit of tweaking and refining this eve, I have come to the conclusion my rear disc mount is a bit off, tolerances are problematic on my end as well, and what I thought was pad rub even with pads wide open turns out to be something else

    when bolts to attach to frame are tightened the whole bb7 pulls hard to right and makes outer pad hit rotor no matter what, but even worse pulls top washers directly on to rotor as well....gonna have to see of I can bed it back a bit, tried tonight without much luck...





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    Did you get this resolved?

  38. #238
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    Did you get this resolved?
    I had this problem on a bike I was putting together from mixed parts. I ended up machining the adapter down on the side that touches the frame. Just a few passes on the mill and it was good to go. Just a fallback if you cant get it figure out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  39. #239
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    I had a 20 grey on order for a month had second thoughts and canceled. Became jealous when these started shipping and ordered a Grape. The color is great but I just don't know if i could live with it. So I declined the shipment. If anyone is looking for a 20 grape, I'd call and ask about it. Maybe they can hook you up.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    I had a 20 grey on order for a month had second thoughts and canceled. Became jealous when these started shipping and ordered a Grape. The color is great but I just don't know if i could live with it. So I declined the shipment. If anyone is looking for a 20 grape, I'd call and ask about it. Maybe they can hook you up.
    Good job. I'm sure they have nothing better to do than cater to you and your indecision.

  41. #241
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    My indecision cost me 55 bucks, so I highly doubt they care .
    I certainly didn't have to broadcast it, just thought someone might be looking for a 'Grape'

  42. #242
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    I have the black, would have loved to have that purple. Oh well.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

  43. #243
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    You woould have a hard time convincing me that the purple one doesn" kick ass!

  44. #244
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    My yellow 18" Lurch arrived today, it was loosely packed, but suffered no damage. I went through the entire bike and everything was snug and preadjusted other than the brakes, even the tires were balanced and inflated. I changed to a red rim strip and red riser bars, otherwise it's stock. Honestly, having been a shop guy, I gotta say, getting a fatty for $900 that is as nice as a bike costing twice that, we'll, it makes me wonder where the rest of the money goes....

  45. #245
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    I've got a clearance issue with my front brake rotor. The rotor rubs the pad no matter how much I try to adjust it. I need to either remove the paint from inner part of disc brake tab, or machine a few thousandths off of the rotor mount. I'm hesitant to remove the paint, because it might not give me enough clearance afterwards. Any other suggestions? Oh, and the supplied washer on the disc brake rubs the rotor. I will have to look for a smaller diameter washer too.

  46. #246
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    Adjust the pads all.the way out, make sure the cable is slack, make sure the rotor is flush on hub. Have your lbs look at it, honestly a half millimeter of paint will not make a difference

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    My yellow 18" Lurch arrived today. I changed to a red rim strip and red riser bars, otherwise it's stock.
    Lets see a pic please. I was torn between the yellow and the orange. The red rim strips should look great on the yellow bike.

    I am running a riser bar with a 40 degree sweep, what bar did you get?

  48. #248
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    I had the same brake problem as others. I used a file to remove the paint and a few thousandths of metal. You have to be careful to keep the file flat and exercise a little patience. I shot the bare metal with a thin coat of paint before remounting the caliper. Worked out great.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140909_05.jpg

    Also, here are a couple of pics showing clearance with the Bud and Lou mounted on the stock rims. Pressure is about 10 psi in both.

    The Lurch Lounge-bud.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-lou.jpg

  49. #249
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    Just pulled the trigger on a black 20" lurch. Will be my first fatbike.

    Wife was nice enough to let me get one before the price increase.

    I've got a set of raceface atlas bars and esi chunky grips for it when it arrives. I'll end up putting a tubeless setup in it as well. Eventually I'd like to get a bluto on it but I'm going to go carbon bars/seatpost and hydro brakes first. I'd like to get this pig down to 32-34lbs eventually.

    Should be a nice change from riding a 24lb xc bike, heh.

    Don't know how much winter riding I'll do in all honesty. My wife just had our 2nd kid, and she's had to take this season off of riding due to the pregnancy not being so easy on her. I'll tool around on this thing while she's re-gaining her fitness lost from taking 10 months off.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    The red rim strips should look great on the yellow bike.
    You could then put on a clown outfit and go as Ronald McDonald. :-)
    Nathan

  51. #251
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    Is the down tube "motobecane" a decal or painted?

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by big boy phil View Post
    I've got a clearance issue with my front brake rotor. The rotor rubs the pad no matter how much I try to adjust it. I need to either remove the paint from inner part of disc brake tab, or machine a few thousandths off of the rotor mount. I'm hesitant to remove the paint, because it might not give me enough clearance afterwards. Any other suggestions? Oh, and the supplied washer on the disc brake rubs the rotor. I will have to look for a smaller diameter washer too.
    I had the washer rub issue, also. Grabbed a spare kid for a third hand and managed to get the washer pushed out enough while tightening to eliminate the rub. As mentioned before, I also have the disc brake alignment issue. The joys of dealing with discount mail order bikes...pretty much what I'd expect.
    baker

  53. #253
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    Its Painted
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  54. #254
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    Okay I thought I wanted a Lurch but am now unsure. Does every Lurch have this brake rotor clearance issue? Because I don't have the skills to do machining work. I pretty much need something that works out of the box with just simple adjustments that I could do myself or have a friend help me with.

  55. #255
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    This is not a great picture, natural light is so much better. The Yellow is much warmer than it appears in this picture, the red rim liner sets off nicely with the yellow, red bars look good (Kore 25mm rise). I will add some more red bling over time, red QR post clamp and red pedals.

    I am going to build some "skinny" wheels for three season use, 50mm to run some 2.75 Dirt Wizards.

    I did try to "slam" the wheel forward and due to the size of the tires, you can only get the wheel so far before the tire hits the frame. With smaller tires I could pull the wheel all the way forward. I didn't measure minimum chainstay with the current whel position, but I did pull it forward another 1/2" or so over the way it was positioned from the factory; I'm about 2/3-3/4 forward.

    It's a really nice bike, I have no complaints, other than I really wish I coudl have more than one color I especially like the look of the grey and of course the purple.

    The Lurch Lounge-kimg0601.jpg

  56. #256
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    I have had to do this sort of this on unicycle frames, but only in the early days when disc brakes were first being added; the frames were occassionally out of spec.

    Facing the caliper mountin surface should not be necessary, these frames are done in a factory under controlled conditions, if it was a problem with one frame, it'd be a problem with many frames. So far we have one frame and one fork reported, that's not a lot.

    I did notice that when I moved my wheel all the way forward, I had to readjust the brake. So make sure your pads are adjusted out as far as possible and your cable is slack.

    Keep in mind that pads can be sanded down if they are too thick.

    My Lurch was ready to ride in less than an hour, all that was needed was mounting the bars, installing the front brake and adjusting both brakes, installing the seat post, and drop the air pressure. It was so easy, they even had the gears preadjusted.

    If someone is reading this trhead and worries that they won't be able to build the bike, then just take it to your LBS and pay them $50 to assemble the bike, no biggie, it is still a great deal. Honestly, it'd be a great deal at $1400.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    Its Painted
    Ugh. Not mad that it's branding, I just don't like the big decal on the downtube, not very clean. One thing I liked more about the Boris. I'm thinking of powder coating the rims white and using a white saddle to match my xc bike. We'll see how it looks in person. What are you guys using for colored rim strips? Thinking I want blue in mine. Might see if one of the guys with a fantom (comes with blue according to BD) would want to swap for the red set I'll get.

  58. #258
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    Took the Lurch out for a chunky lunch ride today. Lots of fun. Dropped 1.6 pounds by switching to the q-tubes and putting on a non qr seat post clamp that I had sitting around. BTW, 50% chance of snow showers here over night! :-)

    Here are a few pics:

    Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr

    Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr

    Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    Ugh. Not mad that it's branding, I just don't like the big decal on the downtube, not very clean. One thing I liked more about the Boris. I'm thinking of powder coating the rims white and using a white saddle to match my xc bike. We'll see how it looks in person. What are you guys using for colored rim strips? Thinking I want blue in mine. Might see if one of the guys with a fantom (comes with blue according to BD) would want to swap for the red set I'll get.
    I have the black Lurch and I "removed" the branding by putting a piece of black vinyl over it. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Go to a local sign store and they might even have some scraps that they can give you. The metal piece on the headtube is just a sticker which peels right off.

    As for rim strips, you can use duct tape. Or go to a hobby or fabric store and get cloth ribbon.

    I have pictures if you look at my previous posts.

  60. #260
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    Just got back from my first single track ride. Took it on the local WORS course. Lots of stumps and roots but pretty fast with some sand pits. WHAT A BLAST! It was really fun to ride. I rode pretty hard and it held together. So, thats good!
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-1.jpg

    Loaded in the truck!
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-2.jpg

    My fix for the rear tire sliding forward and bending the stop bolts. Some stainless 4 x 10mm allen head bolts put in backward. Worked great. If I slammed it forward the tire rubbed on the front derailleur clamp. Looks really clean too.
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-3.jpg

    The only damage out of the box. Send BD an email to see if they can help, otherwise it works fine.
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-4.jpg

    Just put the red wheel strips in.
    The Lurch Lounge-photo-5.jpg
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  61. #261
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    Also, ran the pressue at about 9-10 PSI. Still felt a bit bouncy.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  62. #262
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    Also, ran the pressue at about 9-10 PSI. Still felt a bit bouncy.
    What size frame is that and how tall are you?
    2014 TREK FUEL EX8 29er
    2015 TREK FARLEY 6

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigVaz View Post
    What size frame is that and how tall are you?
    Im 6'4 got the 22".
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  64. #264
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    Im 6'4 got the 22".
    The fit feels good? How about your inseam? Any room between the top tube & the family jewels?
    2014 TREK FUEL EX8 29er
    2015 TREK FARLEY 6

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigVaz View Post
    The fit feels good? How about your inseam? Any room between the top tube & the family jewels?
    The fit feels great, I actually thought it looked small and it feels smaller than my superfly and monocog. Once I rode it for a bit it feels great.

    Inseam is 34-36. About an inch or so between my business and the top tube.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigVaz View Post
    What size frame is that and how tall are you?
    For comparison, my Superfly is a 21.5", the monocog is a 21" and the domane is a 60cm.
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
    2016 Macho King

  67. #267
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    I have an 18" Lurch, 32" inseam, there is loads of room, I could easily have gotten a 20", but it doesn't feel small.

    Just got back from a couple hours mixed single and double track, played with pressures, high pressure handlesbetter but low pressure feels more cushy. The big tires are big, certainly mmore than you need for dirt.

  68. #268
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    Ok gang, want to put 1x11 set up on my Lurch I just got. I want to go with a 30t in the front for now. I don't know anything about the measurements.

    Is this what I need?
    RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Ring 30t x 104 Red, Chainrings

    Also, can a few links be taken out of the chain or do I need a new chain? I thought some cheap chains could not be shortened, that is the reason I ask.

  69. #269
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    Since receiving my Lurch on Monday, I've been dinking with it after work for the last three nights. This is my first Bikesdirect purchase and it has been pretty much an experiment for me. As inexpensive as these bikes are, I was just really curious about what they were.

    For me, I have some reasonable assembly and fab skills and part of the fun of bikes is goofing around with them and understanding what they are and getting them dialed in. I never expected the Lurch to overwhelm me. My biggest hope was that it didn't underwhelm me.

    I can pretty much say, at this point, that it is what I thought it would be. It's not terrible, but it's not a super amazing value, either. It's a $900 mail order bike. There was some shipping damage and some things that needed to be fixed, and some aesthetic stuff I wanted to do.

    Tonight, I finally got it to the point that I was ready to take it for a spin.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140911_01.jpg

    The two big takeaways from that short ride are how HEAVY this bike is. I've spent the last three years riding an aluminum 9:Zero:7, which wasn't exactly light, by any means, but when you get into the 30's, it seems like a few pounds make a huge difference. It's not a show stopper, but it's kind of a big deal. I'm not interested in spending very much money making this thing lighter, that would just be throwing good money after bad.

    The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

    There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140911_02.jpg

    And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.

    I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

    Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

    BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.

    I'll keep hammering through the issues with my lurch, but I think I already know where this experiment is headed, for me, unfortunately.

    My two cents only.

  70. #270
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    Got my Orange Lurch yesterday, very quick and easy assemble. No issues whatsoever, paint is nice and even, brakes work great, shifting easy and smooth. I did have a smashed brake cable housing, easy fix with some electrical tape. Loving the fatty so far...im swapping out the grips and rim strips, pics to come. BTW, if you have the orange and need pedals, the crankbros orange/black mallets on amazon are a perfect match on the color.

  71. #271
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Since receiving my Lurch on Monday, I've been dinking with it after work for the last three nights. This is my first Bikesdirect purchase and it has been pretty much an experiment for me. As inexpensive as these bikes are, I was just really curious about what they were.

    For me, I have some reasonable assembly and fab skills and part of the fun of bikes is goofing around with them and understanding what they are and getting them dialed in. I never expected the Lurch to overwhelm me. My biggest hope was that it didn't underwhelm me.

    I can pretty much say, at this point, that it is what I thought it would be. It's not terrible, but it's not a super amazing value, either. It's a $900 mail order bike. There was some shipping damage and some things that needed to be fixed, and some aesthetic stuff I wanted to do.

    Tonight, I finally got it to the point that I was ready to take it for a spin.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20140911_01.jpg 
Views:	413 
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ID:	922772

    The two big takeaways from that short ride are how HEAVY this bike is. I've spent the last three years riding an aluminum 9:Zero:7, which wasn't exactly light, by any means, but when you get into the 30's, it seems like a few pounds make a huge difference. It's not a show stopper, but it's kind of a big deal. I'm not interested in spending very much money making this thing lighter, that would just be throwing good money after bad.

    The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

    There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20140911_02.jpg 
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ID:	922773

    And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.

    I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

    Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

    BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.

    I'll keep hammering through the issues with my lurch, but I think I already know where this experiment is headed, for me, unfortunately.

    My two cents only.
    **Sorry to copy the whole thing..working on my phone...

    Can we get a couple pics of the drive side crank and clearance to the tire and chain stay. ....could you measure the Q factor. .that crank arm to stay looks really wide..

    sent from my GS3 with my thumbs

  72. #272
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    Axle length on these are 120mm. There is a 10mm spacer on each side of the BB shell. Wonder if these can be removed..there appears to be plenty of clearance between crank and chainstays, at least on my 20" lurch.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
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  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmac23 View Post
    I have the black Lurch and I "removed" the branding by putting a piece of black vinyl over it. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Go to a local sign store and they might even have some scraps that they can give you. The metal piece on the headtube is just a sticker which peels right off.

    As for rim strips, you can use duct tape. Or go to a hobby or fabric store and get cloth ribbon.

    I have pictures if you look at my previous posts.
    I saw that you used vinyl. I work at a high end automotive dealership where we have a pretty extensive graphics department. I have a good relationship with the guys there, so they save me scraps of paint protective film (aka clearbra) to use on my cranks/frames and they also have a vinyl printer. Was thinking of having them do an argyle or flannel pattern for the downtube / top tube and matching the rim strips to it. I need to check to see what vinyl fabric, ribbon or tape I can find with the pattern that I'd like.



    spovegas - The pictures of that q-factor are pretty bad. I didn't even think of that, to be honest. I just put a narrow q-factor crank on my XC bike yesterday and took it for a test ride and loved it. Will be interesting to see how I do with the fatbike. I don't think you're being a killjoy or destructive when you're pointing out obvious flaws with a bike you've purchased and obviously spent some time setting up.

    The killjoys are the folks that don't have one of these bikes, have never ridden one and then spew hate about it.

    Do you think you can remove those spacers or swap the crank for a narrower q-factor by chance?

    I experienced my first bikesdirect hate yesterday, when I went to the LBS that's closest to my house. (not the one I'm known at, that one is a 45 min drive for me). I haven't even got the bike yet.

    I went to get a chain whip, some stans and shifter cables. I was with my 3 year old son who is obsessed with monster trucks. Obviously he gravitated to the fat bike they had on display which was a charge bike. I was looking at the offset lacing and the narrower hub arrangement (the main reason I ruled the charge out of my to buy list) while he was looking at it.

    The employee came over and asked me what I was looking for and asked me if I was thinking of getting one. I told him I had a fatbike on order that should be here next week. When he asked what I bought, and I told him you could see that he tried to keep quiet about it but he had a look on his face of "ew". He got me my bottle of stans and found the chain whip and cable and just dropped the discussion.

    He ended up talking to me about my other bike and the kind of riding I do and ended up being pretty cool in the end. Just kind of took me by surprise with the hate.

  74. #274
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    I've got a spare threaded XTR BB from the crank I just put on my XC bike (pf30). When I get mine I'll take the crank apart, put the XTR BB in and check to see if I can take the spacers out... assuming no one else does it before I get my bike.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by oops View Post
    Can we get a couple pics of the drive side crank and clearance to the tire and chain stay
    Here ya go. This is with the stock tire. If you go back to post 248, you can see the clearance with a Bud.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_01.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    There is a 10mm spacer on each side of the BB shell. Wonder if these can be removed..
    That's my plan for this weekend - see what I can do with the spacers. On the non-drive side, I'm hoping it will be pretty straightforward. Just completely remove or turn down the spacer. On the drive side, it will be more interesting. I want chain clearance for 5" tires, so I'll throw a big fat larry on the rear wheel and measure the clearance and reduce the spacer thickness accordingly. But I'll also have to figure out some way to reduce the thickness of the derailleur spacer. That will probably involve making a new one from a block of aluminum, or something.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_02.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_03.jpg

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I had the same brake problem as others. I used a file to remove the paint and a few thousandths of metal. You have to be careful to keep the file flat and exercise a little patience. I shot the bare metal with a thin coat of paint before remounting the caliper. Worked out great.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am sure it is me but this does not look strong. I really hope I am wrong.....good info btw.
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post

    The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

    There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.

    And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.
    As far as I can tell, the Lurch is following "industry standards" on this one(if such a thing exists in fat bike land). I don't see how you can turn down the spacers, since the spline on the crank spindle is only slightly deeper than what is necessary to work with the existing setup. What's driving this is the chainline necessary to fit a 5" tire with a 2x ring setup.

    If you look at the Race Face setup table for a 190mm rear end, you need the following:
    100mm BB
    1 DS BB spacer
    2 NDS BB spacers
    1 11.5mm spindle spacer per side
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf

    While I certainly agree BD is not a market innovator, the Q-factor on the Lurch is just a product of having a symmetrical 190mm rear end.

  78. #278
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    The Q is no big deal, granted it's wide, but it's not so wide as to cause a problem for someone unless you are knocked knee and skinny like a little girl

    Seriously, I have played with Q for a long time, it is a much bigger deal on one wheel, yet I still found that it was not a problem to adjust.

    In the case of the Lurch, I do believe that the spacers could be removed from the crank, though it'd require a new BB, but it looks like there is enough space to run 4" tires with no problem, maybe five inch if you offset the crank or space out the chain rings.

    I took the maiden voyage yesterday, two hours of cranking, and even my notoriously sensitive hips and knees bothered me not.

    In terms of heel strike on the chain stays, there is none, that's me with a sz 13-14 running platforms.

    I do think that having so many hub width standards is a problem, but it's just the way it is until things settle out in the industry. It's not like "we" can do anything about it.

    As to what you get for $900 being "about what you should expect", that is pure nonsense. This is a great deal, unless you are a weight weenie and ride a Moots, simply put: This is a lot of bike for the money. Compare this bike to what you get in a hardtail 29er from a company like Redline or Raleigh, same quality, but with BikeDirect you get more for your money.

    If you are used to riding high end bikes, then why in the world would you "splurge" on a mail order bike, and then come here and complain, really...

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The Q is no big deal, granted it's wide, but it's not so wide as to cause a problem for someone unless you are knocked knee and skinny like a little girl

    If you are used to riding high end bikes, then why in the world would you "splurge" on a mail order bike, and then come here and complain, really...
    This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. For those of us with bad knees, q factor is the difference between pain and riding for 1 mile, or being able to ride for 5 hours. If my seatpost is 10mm too low I get knee pain to the point of limping after I'm done riding.

    Fatbikes to some are a novelty and a second bike, hence the "splurge" on something not necessary. When you spend $900 on something you have certain expectations, sure. The point of this discussion is to make the $900 is well spent in our minds and if there is issues, some of us like to solve them.


    If the main issue with removing crank spacers is the FD, then I might just throw a narrow wide on it and swap it to 1x10. If I can do a 5" tire in front and a 4" tire in the rear I think it will more than suffice. I really don't want to go to a 1x setup at if all possible, though.

    I put 800 miles on a narrow wide setup this year and in that mileage I ran through 2 xt cassettes, 2 11t cogs (on top of the cassettes) and about 4 chains. I'm about 175lbs and don't think I was that hard on the setup. I just swapped back to a 2x10 setup on my xc bike for that reason alone. I don't think I'll put enough miles on the fatbike to shred drivetrain componets like I have with the XC bike.

    Haven't recieved a tracking number from BD yet, so I emailed them. Hopefully they're able to give me an ETA.

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    I saw that you used vinyl. I work at a high end automotive dealership where we have a pretty extensive graphics department. I have a good relationship with the guys there, so they save me scraps of paint protective film (aka clearbra) to use on my cranks/frames and they also have a vinyl printer. Was thinking of having them do an argyle or flannel pattern for the downtube / top tube and matching the rim strips to it. I need to check to see what vinyl fabric, ribbon or tape I can find with the pattern that I'd like
    Hey Utahbikemike, that sounds pretty cool. I really like to personalize my stuff. Try to make my ride one-of-a-kind.

  81. #281
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    BD just emailed me. Guess they needed an extra security step since my billing address and my shipping address didn't match. I can appreciate extra security, so a thumbs up to them so far. (even though it might cost an extra day for delivery from my original order date).

  82. #282
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    The wide q factor bothered me the first mile or 2 of the first ride. But after that, i really didnt notice. Maybe its because you're constantly changing your body position (leaning, standing, sitting, etc) while mt bikin'. I almost feel like the wide q factor helps turning..there'a a lot of bike to lean into the turn so the wider stance gives your body more leverage...I dunno thats my theory and thats how it feels to me. Pedal striking happens a lot more on this bike compared to me 29er but thats the only downside...a small one. Still, Im extremely satisfied with my Lurch.
    Salsa El Mariachi SS
    Salsa Vaya
    Lurch Fatbike

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    As far as I can tell, the Lurch is following "industry standards" on this one(if such a thing exists in fat bike land). I don't see how you can turn down the spacers, since the spline on the crank spindle is only slightly deeper than what is necessary to work with the existing setup. What's driving this is the chainline necessary to fit a 5" tire with a 2x ring setup.

    If you look at the Race Face setup table for a 190mm rear end, you need the following:
    100mm BB
    1 DS BB spacer
    2 NDS BB spacers
    1 11.5mm spindle spacer per side
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf

    While I certainly agree BD is not a market innovator, the Q-factor on the Lurch is just a product of having a symmetrical 190mm rear end.
    Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.

  84. #284
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    Just a quick update for my front brake clearance issues. I filed/sanded a bit of the disc tab mounting bracket, and used smaller washers and was able to eliminate the rubbing. Quick ride in the parking lot was fun. Wontr be able to ride till the weekend, but I'm sure I ain't have any further issues.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
    Ok gang, want to put 1x11 set up on my Lurch I just got. I want to go with a 30t in the front for now. I don't know anything about the measurements.

    Is this what I need?
    RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Ring 30t x 104 Red, Chainrings

    Also, can a few links be taken out of the chain or do I need a new chain? I thought some cheap chains could not be shortened, that is the reason I ask.
    Anyone?

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.
    Good luck and thank you for your in depth feedback/pics. I have a Night Train on order and will be dealing with this myself soon enough.

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
    Anyone?
    First, I assume you mean 1x10 and not 1x11. I can't find any specs on the Samox crank, but it looks to have a standard 104mm hole pattern. The 104mm BCD cranks aren't designed to go smaller than 32t. The 30t rings add some thickness to them to space it away from the crank arms and allow clearance. They also thread the ring itself instead of using bolts/nuts. You may need to pick up some new hardware depending on what you've got:
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T...LITY_CHART.pdf

    After you've got that sorted out, you just remove the small ring/front derailleur/shifter. Pretty much any chain can be shortened. The BD spec sheet says it comes with a KMC, which typically uses a removable master link. If that's the case, unsnap the master link and remove however many links you'd like. If not, you'll need to pick up a master link of your choice and then shorten it.

  88. #288
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    "This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. "

    Mike, if you don't like my positive attitude, then you don't have to read it. All I did was refute what the negative that another poster wrote.

    To repeat:

    I have hip and knee problems like most people over forty, and the wide Q on the Lurch caused me no discomfort.

    I have owned many bikes over the years and the quality of this bike is what one should expect from this level of bike, but the price we are paying is far less that we'd be paying at a bike store.

    I have no issue with a scratch, a bent rotor, having to assemble a bike, or having an ugly decal, it's all easily fixable or ignorable.

    All in, my POSITIVE attitude toward BikesDirect is that they are offering a decent product, at a decent price, for folks who don't want to blow a ton of cash on a bike that is for many a "seasonal" use.

    Also, I don't drink with my bike, I drink with my wife

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.
    One other thought while you're digging into this: could you try to measure the Q-factor as it's noted in the Race Face drawing? If you have the NDS crank arm off and are able to mount it as shown in the drawing, it should be easy to measure. Otherwise, you'll have to get a little more creative and measure to a spoke/rotate cranks/measure other side.

    Thanks!

    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    One other thought while you're digging into this: could you try to measure the Q-factor as it's noted in the Race Face drawing? If you have the NDS crank arm off and are able to mount it as shown in the drawing, it should be easy to measure. Otherwise, you'll have to get a little more creative and measure to a spoke/rotate cranks/measure other side.

    Thanks!

    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FAT...CLEARANCES.pdf
    Will do.

  91. #291
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    Bike arrived today.

    Shipping issues - UPS held the bike as a shipping "Exception" because the claimed weight was lower than the actual weight. It arrived on time, but there was a moment of fear that the bike wouldn't arrive in time to ride today on our first snow of the season.

    Box arrived mostly intact. There were a few punctures in the cardboard - none in important places. No damage to the frame or other parts.

    Assembly went smoothly. The front brake went on perfectly with no fiddling. I had to readjust the rear brake and tighten the bolts that hold the adapter to frame. Spokes could use some tension here and there, but the wheels are true.

    I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of the no-name cockpit components. They feel better than they looked online. However, the aluminum in the stem is super soft. The lock washer snagged on the stem face while tightening and took some of the metal off with almost no effort.

    Tires were hyper-inflated. I didn't have a tire gauge, but I'd estimate they were at at least 35psi in the box. That may be related to the altitude up here (7700' ASL). I let a bunch of air out. Surprise - the Snowshoes are "tubeless ready!" I'll be doing the conversion next week, using this tape and Orange Seal's winter sauce.

    Only other things that need immediate attention - I'm going to flip the stem and move the seat back a tiny bit. Reflectors will be removed and spoke guard destroyed. Otherwise, she's ready to ride.


  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    "This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. "

    Mike, if you don't like my positive attitude, then you don't have to read it.
    If that's you being positive I bet you're a lot of fun to be around. You called me a "knock'd knee'd skinny girl" that "splurged on a mail order bike and complained about it."

    Unfortunately I do need to read it, to read the thread, unless you're on ignore.

    Moving on,

    Got my shipping conformation. Will be here Thursday next week. Will be a long week unfortunately.

  93. #293
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    Put on some Answer Carbon 20/20 Enduro bars and some ESI Chunky grips. Feeling dialed in now and ready for the snow. BTW, I haven't had any issues with the wider q-factor yet, but will keep a lookout for problems (I've already had multiple knee surgeries, but don't feel overly sensitive to q-factor).

    P9120002 by bbaker22, on Flickr
    baker

  94. #294
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    Q Factor

    This is my first experience with fatbikes and most of my mileage this season has been on a super narrow Q factor track bike. I did have some trepidation about the wide Q factor of fatbikes in general and specially about the 190mm bikes like the Lurch.

    The first few times on my Lurch, it felt like I was ridding a horse, not necessarily uncomfortable, just really weird. That feeling quickly subsided and now I don't even notice it. I have ridden my Lurch exclusively since I got it, so perhaps when I swap back and forth with other bikes I might notice it again.

    Fortunately I have had no unusual knee pain. I do have a bit of a trick knee but this bike doesn't exacerbate it. Mashing on a fixed gear bike does sometimes, especially in the hills. I have been told people over 50 should ride fixies, I do anyways.

    I am really enjoying this bike.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    First, I assume you mean 1x10 and not 1x11. I can't find any specs on the Samox crank, but it looks to have a standard 104mm hole pattern. The 104mm BCD cranks aren't designed to go smaller than 32t. The 30t rings add some thickness to them to space it away from the crank arms and allow clearance. They also thread the ring itself instead of using bolts/nuts. You may need to pick up some new hardware depending on what you've got:
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T...LITY_CHART.pdf

    After you've got that sorted out, you just remove the small ring/front derailleur/shifter. Pretty much any chain can be shortened. The BD spec sheet says it comes with a KMC, which typically uses a removable master link. If that's the case, unsnap the master link and remove however many links you'd like. If not, you'll need to pick up a master link of your choice and then shorten it.
    Thank you very much.

    The cranks on the Lurch have a 4.5mm thick spacer. I will be ordering a 30t nw front ring soon.

  96. #296
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    900 bux? Killer. It's a bike like any other. Just a better deal than most. Ride n smile

    rog

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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

    Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

    BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.
    Very well said.

  98. #298
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    Lurch Q And BB Details

    Need to issue a nerd alert: The following will appeal to about 0.2% of the readers here, but for the other 5 of you guys, I hope it's helpful.

    This thread has pretty much digressed to the emotional BD-thread norm, but there are a few really good guys who are are currently involved in the discussion:

    car_nut (top 'o the list)
    Utahbikemike
    ultraspontane
    Ufdah

    and others

    You good guys make it wortwhile to go to the following trouble. Happy trails and tailwinds and all that. Hope it's all self-explanatory. If not, hit me up.

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_01.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_02.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_03.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_04.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_05.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_06.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_07.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_08.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_09.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_10.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_11.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_12.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_13.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_14.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_15.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_16.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_17.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_18.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140912_19.jpg

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Need to issue a nerd alert: The following will appeal to about 0.2% of the readers here, but for the other 5 of you guys, I hope it's helpful.
    This is most excellent {pushes taped glasses onto bridge of nose}

    So it looks like the Samox cranks have a Q of about 232mm. The Race Face Turbines are 222mm. So, certainly some room for improvement there from a design perspective. It looks like if you went to a 1x 170mm crank you wouldn't completely ruin the chainline, but a 2x is definitely out. There's definitely frame clearance for a 170mm set, but I don't know if foot/heel clearance becomes an issue.

    Crank........................Q..............Inner ring chainline
    Samox..........................232................ ......??
    Race Face 170 1x...........202.....................68.0
    Race Face 190 3X..........222......................70.7


    I just came across this article which explains it all far better than I could:
    Salsa Cycles

    EDIT: This one has some good info and pics on fitting 170 cranks to 190 frames:
    Tech Speak: Decoding Fatbike Hub Spacing and Drivetrain Compatibility with Wolf Tooth Components

  100. #300
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    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-20140912_152902.jpg  


  101. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavedweller32 View Post
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    Beautiful!! If I'd ordered earlier I'd be rocking an orange one too!

    For now I'll have to settle for Mello-Yello. ;-)

  102. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavedweller32 View Post
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    I like the white accents. Is that a 20" or 22"?

  103. #303
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    That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.

    I'm going to ride it as-is before tinkering with it to get a good baseline.

    I emailed BD as their site showed a blue 20" (which I wanted in the first place) to change frame colors. I got no email back, except tracking information which showed a black frame. I don't know what I'm going to get at this point so I'm assuming it's going to be black.

    I was going to start shopping for rimstrips and such, but I'm not so sure at this point.

    I'm getting excited, though. I love that black bike with blue accessories.

  104. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavedweller32 View Post
    Big Orange Lurch!!!
    The white looks awesome. Reminds me of an orangesicle.

  105. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.
    That's not going to happen. The Samox is just like a Shimano by the looks of things. The NDS arm slides onto the splined spindle and is locked in place by pinch bolts. There's a little extra depth on the spline to make sure you can snug it up against the bearings. If you remove the spacers you'll have the same Q-factor, the crank will just slide back and forth in the BB by 10mm.


    Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).

  106. #306
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    Samox crankset weight?

    Spovegas, thanks for the detailed feedback on the Q factor of the Samox and your detailed writeup. Did you happen to get a weight on the crankset? For reference, your fame clearance measurements are based on a 20" frame? I wonder how much crank-chainstay clearance there is on the other smaller models. There's definitely less tire clearance on the 16" vs 18" frames per posted pics here.
    My two cents - I like the Q factor. It reminds me of the difference between skiing on old school skinny skis with a narrow stance, and riding new all mountain/powder skis with a wider stance. The narrow Q of my cross bike kills my hips after only 10 miles.

  107. #307
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    Great idea with the backward allen head bolt. I removed the flimsy bolts and jammed the axle all the way forward. I put a Vee8 4.0" tire (for more speed and smoothness until the snow flies) on the rear and it just fits with about 1/4 inch to spare on the der. bracket. I'll use the allen bolt when I put the snowshoe back on. Thx!

  108. #308
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    16" Team Orange and 18" Grape Soda

    Finally had a chance to take the bikes out yesterday. Mine is the Orange one. So far so good. Will be changing to riser/sweep bars soon because of shoulder issues. FWIW, I have had 4 knee surgeries and had no issues with the wide Q factor (YET).
    The Lurch Lounge-img_20140912_102942145.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-img_20140912_094756311.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-img_20140912_104240812.jpg

  109. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    That's not going to happen. The Samox is just like a Shimano by the looks of things. The NDS arm slides onto the splined spindle and is locked in place by pinch bolts. There's a little extra depth on the spline to make sure you can snug it up against the bearings. If you remove the spacers you'll have the same Q-factor, the crank will just slide back and forth in the BB by 10mm.


    Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).
    I meant to say that the stock 190mm crank won't work, but it looks like a 170mm may if you go 1x drivetrain. Moving the chainline by 10mm is a lot. Looking at my extra xt crank and raceface 34t ring, you might be able to put it on the crankarm side of the spider to offset it.

    Qfactor might not even be an issue for me - I've never ridden the bike, it's speculation at this point. I definitely want to keep it 2x, though.

  110. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    I meant to say that the stock 190mm crank won't work, but it looks like a 170mm may if you go 1x drivetrain.
    Gotcha. Yep, that looks to be very doable.

  111. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post

    Crank........................Q..............Inner ring chainline
    Samox..........................232................ ......??
    Race Face 170 1x...........202.....................68.0
    Race Face 190 3X..........222......................70.7

    I just came across this article which explains it all far better than I could:
    Salsa Cycles

    EDIT: This one has some good info and pics on fitting 170 cranks to 190 frames:
    Tech Speak: Decoding Fatbike Hub Spacing and Drivetrain Compatibility with Wolf Tooth Components
    Dang, I should have thought to measure the chainline. I looked at the crankset and couldn't figure out an accurate way to measure it while it's off the bike without a bunch of goofing around, so I will follow up with that when I put the bike back together.

    Thanks for posting the articles. The Salsa one, especially, is just excellent.

    So I should mention that the tire that was mounted up when I measured the chain to tire clearance was a Big Fat Larry, and I pumped it up to 15+ psi to get the width reasonably up there. I just now went and measured the width and it's 103.6mm. So if I double the clearance of 12.3 and add it to the BFL width, I come up with 128mm, which is theoretically the widest tire/rim combo you could run without chain rub. For perspective, the surly chart lists the width of a Lou on a 100mm rim at 121mm.

    I'm think I'm back to my assertion that BD chose to provide clearance for the widest rim/tire combos out there by going to their component partner and having them jack up the Q. From a mass appeal perspective, chain or frame interference issues are probably way more problematic for them than a few complaints about an extra wide Q or a chain alignment setup that's getting pretty out there. Their mission is to sell a ton of cheap bikes and they have to make compromises and decisions based on rock-bottom economics to be able to do that.

    I stared at the crankset for a while this morning to see if there was any reasonable way to machine it down so I could remove the spacers. I *think* the spindle is shrunk fit into the drive-side arm, and maybe I could take it to work and get it apart and cut 20 mm off the end and put it back together, but that would leave the drive side bearing race in the wrong location. Not sure how big of a deal that would be - the race is very close in diameter to the rest of the spindle.

    At any rate, I'm just going to think about it for a while, and maybe look into inexpensive options for swapping in a different crankset. Since the bike is already torn halfway down, I'm gonna framesaver it today and put it back together and then go ride it as-is. I have very little time on it so far and I need to put a few hours in to figure out of the Q is gonna be a show-stopper. As others have said, maybe my body will adjust with some saddle time and it won't be an issue. That would be great.

  112. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).
    This is true for the widest tire/rim combos, but I think my measurements show that with a BFL on the 80, I could get away with running a 170mm crank. Even if I went to a slightly wider tire like the Lou, I might have some slight chain rub in the lowest gear, but I think I could live with that. I had light chain rub with certain tires on my 9:Zero:7 and it wasn't really that problematic. It might be reasonable tradeoff to get the Q down, for some folks.

  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Spovegas, thanks for the detailed feedback on the Q factor of the Samox and your detailed writeup. Did you happen to get a weight on the crankset? For reference, your fame clearance measurements are based on a 20" frame? I wonder how much crank-chainstay clearance there is on the other smaller models. There's definitely less tire clearance on the 16" vs 18" frames per posted pics here.
    watermonkey, yes, 20" frame. Here ya go . . .

    The Lurch Lounge-20140913_01.jpg

    The Lurch Lounge-20140913_02.jpg

  114. #314
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    Tube And Tire Weights

    I weighed one of my tires at 1270g and a tube at 590. That's a really reasonable tire weight. Switching to a lighter tube, like a Q-tube, is an easy and inexpensive way to shave over a pound off of your stock lurch.

  115. #315
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    Switching to q-tubes saved 650g (1.43lbs) of rotating weight for me. For $18. That is an incredible savings to dollar ratio...
    baker

  116. #316
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    20 in large

  117. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    I like the white accents. Is that a 20" or 22"?
    20in large

  118. #318
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    Switching to q-tubes saved 650g (1.43lbs) of rotating weight for me. For $18. That is an incredible savings to dollar ratio...
    Which q-tubes are you using?

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post

    I stared at the crankset for a while this morning to see if there was any reasonable way to machine it down so I could remove the spacers. I *think* the spindle is shrunk fit into the drive-side arm, and maybe I could take it to work and get it apart and cut 20 mm off the end and put it back together, but that would leave the drive side bearing race in the wrong location. Not sure how big of a deal that would be - the race is very close in diameter to the rest of the spindle.
    If you can press the spindle out, and you have the skills/means, I would look at taking the 20mm out of the middle of the spindle, sleeve it and TIG it, and you should be able to keep the races where they belong.

    NO clue if it's feasible or will be strong enough.

  120. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    Which q-tubes are you using?
    The 26x2.4-2.7 ones from here:

    Q-Tubes Super Light 26" Presta Tube > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tubes | Jenson USA
    baker

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    So, Q-Tubes or tubeless? Most people are going tubeless for weight savings, but I don't think they are losing much more than you did with the Q-Tubes. Plus it is a lot less of a hassle.

  122. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickngas View Post
    So, Q-Tubes or tubeless? Most people are going tubeless for weight savings, but I don't think they are losing much more than you did with the Q-Tubes. Plus it is a lot less of a hassle.
    I suppose it depends on your intended usage and patience / free time. We don't have lots of goat heads around here and I didn't have the patience / time to get things setup tubeless right now. Hence, my decision to go with lighter tubes rather than mess with tubeless.

    I'll probably jump on the tubeless bandwagon once I have more time and other people have really ironed out the process. :-) I also need some time and miles on the lighter q-tubes to see if they will work for me. In the past, I ran ultralight tubes for endurance races (think Leadville 100) and ended up regretting it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker View Post
    The q superlights are great, but I've found the regular q tubes 26 x 2.4-2.7 at only 25 grams heavier per tube (280 grams) with a .9mm thickness vs .73 thickness of the q-lites, are quite a bit more durable and last much longer without developing weird leaks over time. Plus the regular q tubes are a few bucks cheaper each.

    rog

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    If you want lighter tubes and your running 4" tires, try a Maxxis 26 x 2.2-2.4 welterweight, it's 300 gms works great.

    As to crank width, a narrowed crank will work fine, the bb is 100mm standard, just get narrower cranks. I'm going to swap cranks because I will never run a 5" tire with a 2 x 10.

    The chain line is terrible stock, not sure what they were thinking. Perhaps 5" tires only belong with IG hubs...

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    I'll go tubeless, but with the amount of sealant I think it'll need I doubt it will be any lighter. It mostly comes down to thorn punctures and pinch flats.

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    One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?

  127. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    This is true for the widest tire/rim combos, but I think my measurements show that with a BFL on the 80, I could get away with running a 170mm crank. Even if I went to a slightly wider tire like the Lou, I might have some slight chain rub in the lowest gear, but I think I could live with that. I had light chain rub with certain tires on my 9:Zero:7 and it wasn't really that problematic. It might be reasonable tradeoff to get the Q down, for some folks.
    When I was re-installing the crankset, I slid it in without the driveside spacer to see how it would look, and the big chainring hit the chainstay. I didn't think to take a picture, but you can get the idea from this picture . . .

    The Lurch Lounge-20140913_06.jpg

    It wasn't a ton of interference, so possibly a smaller chainring would solve the problem. Anyway, for anyone wanting to go this route, something to be aware of.

  129. #329
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    Re: The Lurch Lounge

    Qtubes...Two rides, 20 miles. Woke up to a flat tire this morning. Cactus spine, so tubeless would have been advantageous. Or maybe, I should just stay on the trail...



    20140914_133014 by bbaker22, on Flickr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?
    I ride the cape quite often where thorns are everywhere. Q-lite toobz and one scoop of stanz keeps me from getting thorn flats. So not much heavier than tubeless requiring more stanz and maybe lighter compared to split tube/stanz. You don't need removable cores. You unthread the small nut, drop valve stem thingy into tube and hold it between fingers while you squirt stanz in out of a small Elmer's glue type bottle with the cap nozzle thingy sliced so that the opening has to be pressed around the presto valve shaft.

    Removable cores make it easier but only saves maybe 20-30 seconds each tube over the non removable core type.

    rog

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    Anyone having problems with self steering? I took the lurch out for the first time today on some fast singletrack. Started with 20 psi then gradually went down in pressure. I liked the lower pressure but as the more I dropped psi the more self steering I felt. The worst being 8psi. The faster I went the more difficult time I had turning the bike...like I lost power steering. Is this something to get used to with fat bikes or do I need to keep more psi in the front vs the back. I will keep experimenting bit just wanted some input from others.

  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?
    Yeah, I had a couple. Can't remember what brand they were though. I think they were giant branded tubes but I'm not 100%. Another possibility is kenda. I buy a tube, wrap it up and tape it to throw in my saddle bag.


    Thinking of trying homebrew sealant due to the amount of money it will cost me in stans

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    Rear hub issues

    Not sure if anyone else has had these issues but I'll post as notice to everyone:

    1. The free hub body is getting trashed by the included cassette after only about 50 miles of riding. I am buying a spidered cassette to prevent further damage. It was very hard to remove the cogs today, had to do it one by one and use a flat-tip to assist. Picture:
    The Lurch Lounge-img_20140914_155017%5B1%5D.jpg

    2. The reason I took off cassette was to investigate a strange noise from the rear hub. I did a race on Saturday (local race series had a novelty race for fat bikes) and there was a loud persistent noise from the rear hub that got louder when cornering or at higher speeds (either pedaling or coasting makes no difference). My teammate said he could hear it from at least 50ft behind me. It's hard to describe the noise but it is not a noise that rubbing tires or brakes makes (I can see that there is loads of tire clearance and I removed my caliper completely to make sure). This noise first appeared (less loudly) the day before near the end of a practice lap and I thought it was something rubbing so I checked over bike at night and made some minor adjustments. When riding on the roads around my hose Friday night before the race all seemed good and no noise was heard. Come race day the noise starts up about half a mile into the race and gets louder over time. It seems that it takes a bit of warm up for it to get noisy (tested this after race). So Today (Sunday) I pulled it apart and everything looks clean and seals are intact but the main hub bearings have some resistance/gritty-ness to them and the free hub bearings are worse. I can only assume that my bearings are defective and under load they do not spin as freely as they should.

    Note: I am a large heavy rider 6'4" ~205 lbs so when I am mashing down on the pedals up hills I probably put some high loads into the hubs but nothing that a non-ww bike should not be able to handle. I have ridden the bike for about 50 miles on trails and maybe 3 miles on roads in town. I have ridden in some mud and puddles but the seals should keep that stuff out and have not not washed bike yet and never wash my bikes with a powerful water jet.

  134. #334
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    I was getting a similar noise from the rear wheel on the inaugural ride yesterday. I noticed that the set screw on the non-drive side was loose. Tightened it and banged the wheel on the ground and the noise went away. Maybe your wheel was not centered properly?

  135. #335
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    As far as I can tell using a digital caliper the rear wheel is centered and the set screws are hand tight against the axle. If it were not centered I think the only sounds would result from brake or tire rub which I do not have.

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    Ouch. Better not try SS with that hub.

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    he
    Quote Originally Posted by Utahbikemike View Post
    That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.

    I'm going to ride it as-is before tinkering with it to get a good baseline.

    I emailed BD as their site showed a blue 20" (which I wanted in the first place) to change frame colors. I got no email back, except tracking information which showed a black frame. I don't know what I'm going to get at this point so I'm assuming it's going to be black.

    I was going to start shopping for rimstrips and such, but I'm not so sure at this point.

    I'm getting excited, though. I love that black bike with blue accessories.
    I ordered the "last one" 20" blue on Friday morning when they posted it. I was talking with BD the day before about the Grape one somebody said they were returning. They didn't know anything about it but told me they had one blue left which they added to the site and I ordered.

    I got the confirmation email and a UPS shipping label created (though it hasn't left the warehouse yet). And their site still shows a "last one" 20" blue available.

    So not sure if there is still one left or not.

  138. #338
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    My front wheel hub came with an end cap on the disc brake side through which the fastener bolt extends through but not one on the other side of wheel hub. Is this correct? Should there be a end cap of each side of the front wheel hub?

  139. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by fdznmstr61 View Post
    My front wheel hub came with an end cap on the disc brake side through which the fastener bolt extends through but not one on the other side of wheel hub. Is this correct? Should there be a end cap of each side of the front wheel hub?
    If you mean this cap, then yes. They can be removed if you are going to run a through axle, but are required if you are going to use a QR needle.

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  140. #340
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    Yes, that is the cap. Thanks bud.

  141. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    I ride the cape quite often where thorns are everywhere. Q-lite toobz and one scoop of stanz keeps me from getting thorn flats. So not much heavier than tubeless requiring more stanz and maybe lighter compared to split tube/stanz. You don't need removable cores. You unthread the small nut, drop valve stem thingy into tube and hold it between fingers while you squirt stanz in out of a small Elmer's glue type bottle with the cap nozzle thingy sliced so that the opening has to be pressed around the presto valve shaft.

    Removable cores make it easier but only saves maybe 20-30 seconds each tube over the non removable core type.

    rog
    This is great stuff, rog. Much appreciated.

  142. #342
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    My Lurch

    The Lurch Lounge-fat-bike-2.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-fat-bike-3.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-fat-bike.jpgThe Lurch Lounge-fat-bike-4.jpg

  143. #343
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    So after putting approx. 50-60 miles on the Lurch, I am strongly considering going 1 x 10. My only reservation on this is actually riding in the snow! I haven't ridden a fatbike in the snow yet (which is why I got this guy, winter commuter/playing around). Does anyone with some snow riding experience think that you will need the 22t inner ring? If I went 1 x 10 it would be a 32t.

    Thanks for the input!
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  144. #344
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    in my experience for snow riding you will want something smaller than the 32 up front. I would go a max of 30t up front and get a 42t for the rear. i ran with a 26t front and a 11-36t rear last year and did fine. i'll be running a 28t 11-42 this year.

  145. #345
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    My dropout wont stay put. Slammed the wheel all the way forward which works great for teh drive side not moving forward. But my problem is when Im doing extreme braking the disc slide slides back.....cant win. Any other suggestions besides tightening the skewer? Ive got it quite tight Im afraid of breaking it.
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  146. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    My dropout wont stay put. Slammed the wheel all the way forward which works great for teh drive side not moving forward. But my problem is when Im doing extreme braking the disc slide slides back.....cant win. Any other suggestions besides tightening the skewer? Ive got it quite tight Im afraid of breaking it.
    Removing the heavy powder coat paint from the contact surfaces of the fork ends might help, particularly from the inside. You can apply a thin coat of spray paint on the exposed metal to keep the rust at bay.

    Lubricating the cam surface on the QR will help increase the clamping force and lower the amount of force required to close the handle.

  147. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by drmayer View Post
    in my experience for snow riding you will want something smaller than the 32 up front. I would go a max of 30t up front and get a 42t for the rear. i ran with a 26t front and a 11-36t rear last year and did fine. i'll be running a 28t 11-42 this year.
    Thanks for the advice! I was thinking the 32x36 would be enough to spin through anything! I guess Ill probably leave it with the stock setup through the first winter and go from there. I haven't shifted out of the big ring since I got it, that's what got me thinking. It would really clean up the bike without all those pieces for the front derailleur.
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  148. #348
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    I picked up some used Missions 26 x 4, they are not substantially narrower than the Snowshoes, maybe 1/2". but they are a lot shorter, so I was able to slam the wheel all the way forwward with room to spare.

    The Lurch is an agile little fatty

    Still contemplating the Bluto, not sure if I want to make it more slack, might have to splurge for an AngleSet so I have choices.

    I want 120mm!!

    I still need to move the caliper forward
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  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy2288 View Post
    Not sure if anyone else has had these issues but I'll post as notice to everyone:

    1. The free hub body is getting trashed by the included cassette after only about 50 miles of riding. I am buying a spidered cassette to prevent further damage. It was very hard to remove the cogs today, had to do it one by one and use a flat-tip to assist. Picture:
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	261 
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ID:	923453

    2. The reason I took off cassette was to investigate a strange noise from the rear hub. I did a race on Saturday (local race series had a novelty race for fat bikes) and there was a loud persistent noise from the rear hub that got louder when cornering or at higher speeds (either pedaling or coasting makes no difference). My teammate said he could hear it from at least 50ft behind me. It's hard to describe the noise but it is not a noise that rubbing tires or brakes makes (I can see that there is loads of tire clearance and I removed my caliper completely to make sure). This noise first appeared (less loudly) the day before near the end of a practice lap and I thought it was something rubbing so I checked over bike at night and made some minor adjustments. When riding on the roads around my hose Friday night before the race all seemed good and no noise was heard. Come race day the noise starts up about half a mile into the race and gets louder over time. It seems that it takes a bit of warm up for it to get noisy (tested this after race). So Today (Sunday) I pulled it apart and everything looks clean and seals are intact but the main hub bearings have some resistance/gritty-ness to them and the free hub bearings are worse. I can only assume that my bearings are defective and under load they do not spin as freely as they should.

    Note: I am a large heavy rider 6'4" ~205 lbs so when I am mashing down on the pedals up hills I probably put some high loads into the hubs but nothing that a non-ww bike should not be able to handle. I have ridden the bike for about 50 miles on trails and maybe 3 miles on roads in town. I have ridden in some mud and puddles but the seals should keep that stuff out and have not not washed bike yet and never wash my bikes with a powerful water jet.
    Could you post which spidered cassette you use that works with these hubs

    Thanks

  150. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywardx View Post
    Could you post which spidered cassette you use that works with these hubs

    Thanks
    Was going to pick up a XT 11-36. Ideally I'd get a full spidered one but there are not many options except for or SRAMS crazy expensive cnc ones. If I still have issues after filing down the damage and using the XT then I'll get a steel free hub body to replace this super soft one.

  151. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy2288 View Post
    Was going to pick up a XT 11-36. Ideally I'd get a full spidered one but there are not many options except for or SRAMS crazy expensive cnc ones. If I still have issues after filing down the damage and using the XT then I'll get a steel free hub body to replace this super one.
    Ya many I have seen cluster the larger 3 cogs but the smaller remaining ones are still independent. I know that some of the wear that you have shown is normal and usually slows down considerably but with only 50 miles makes me wonder if its a bit premature.

    Thanks again for the reply

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywardx View Post
    Ya many I have seen cluster the larger 3 cogs but the smaller remaining ones are still independent. I know that some of the wear that you have shown is normal and usually slows down considerably but with only 50 miles makes me wonder if its a bit premature.

    Thanks again for the reply
    I would agree that is seems premature. I have used deore cassettes on alum bodies and this level of damage shows up after a few hundred miles. I can only think that since other entry level cassettes are at least pinned together they cause less damage than this one that has every cog separate. The xt has the 5 lower gears on spiders and the top 4 free. Hopefully this will reduce the damage but I think a steel body is in the future.

  153. #353
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    **
    Last edited by skywardx; 09-15-2014 at 04:29 PM.

  154. #354
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    Wrong Forum
    Last edited by pspycho; 09-15-2014 at 01:31 PM.
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  155. #355
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    The Lurch Lounge-20140914_130438.jpg

    Draper Virginia, New River Trail

  156. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by pspycho View Post
    Wrong Forum
    You should have left it up, you made some interesting points.

  157. #357
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    Looks like the price is officially $999!

    Right off the bat I would like to mention that I have been having a lot of fun with my Lurch! My personal opinion is that if you want to buy a bike that you ride all the time, through all four seasons, there are some nice options on your "name brand" bikes, and it would probably be beneficial to have the support of your LBS. For someone who just wants to have a fun time, ride in the winter and play around with a bike I think the Lurch is a pretty darn good option. The biggest thing right now I think would be a nice to have would be thru-axles. Then we wouldn't have to worry about the axle sliding on the dropouts. Honestly, Im not sure this will be as much of a problem in snow due to less traction. Everything else is manageable.
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  158. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedbaue View Post
    The biggest thing right now I think would be a nice to have would be thru-axles. Then we wouldn't have to worry about the axle sliding on the dropouts.
    I am not sure the new style of thru-axles and horizontal fork ends are compatible.
    This pic show how Surly (a big fan of horizontal fork ends) is doing it on the new Ice Cream Truck.

    The Lurch Lounge-surly-ice-cream-truck-013.jpg

  159. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    I am not sure the new style of thru-axles and horizontal fork ends are compatible.
    This pic show how Surly (a big fan of horizontal fork ends) is doing it on the new Ice Cream Truck.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah, Im not sure they are either! It would just be a nice feature. NightTrain anyone? :P
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  160. #360
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    Looks like Pauls will be offering a cam style 190 QR soon.

    Quick Release Skewers from Paul Component Engineering

    The dropouts is really the only thing that bothers me about this bike. Everything else seems fine for now.
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  161. #361
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    It is not that hard to get the wheel to stay in place, there are a multitude of options, for sure the Lurch drop outs are no different than for any other bike with horizontal dropouts.

    The advantages of a horizontal drop out are the ability to adjust the wheelbase length and to run single speed without a tensioner.

    This "problem" is certainly not a significant reason to skip this bike.

    Moving my wheel forward and running 4" tires took the Lurch from turtle to rabbit, it is a fun little bike now, so for me it is a true multipurpose bike. If I had to stay with 5" tires and the longer wheelbase, I would have skipped buying a fatty.

  162. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    It is not that hard to get the wheel to stay in place, there are a multitude of options, for sure the Lurch drop outs are no different than for any other bike with horizontal dropouts.
    What was your solution? Under hard braking my still slides and I have the skewer cranked down pretty hard. I have a few bikes that are SS and I do not have the same problem. My initial thought is the force from the tire on the ground. There is a lot more friction there before sliding than a 2.1" tire!

    Im not too worried when it comes to that in the snow, but I certainly have moved the rear axle a few times riding on hard packed single track. Edit* - And I agree, its certainly not a reason to skip this bike!
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  163. #363
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    Tug nuts, spacers, normal stuff.

    You need to clean the paint off the inside and outside of the stays; don't go crazy, just clean the area that contacts the QR and hub, then clean the knurling on the friction faces to remove paint already scraped off, do this to both the hub and the QR

  164. #364
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    What was your solution?
    Tug nuts, spacers, normal stuff.

    You need to clean the paint off the inside and outside of the stays; don't go crazy, just clean the area that contacts the QR and hub, then clean the knurling on the friction faces to remove paint already scraped off, do this to both the hub and the QR.

    You can also change the QR to a thru axle, though I'm not sure who makes that sort of thing in a 190mm, but there are solid axles as well as modified skewers that can be tightened like a "nut and bolt".

    You should be able to make this thing work, I have had no problems and mine is just as it came from the factory.

  165. #365
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    Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match. Thru axle is not an option on this frame. I will try the paint scrape and see. Tugnuts are just for preventing moving forward not backwards with braking.

    Maybe carbon friction paste might work too, I read elsewhere on mtbr.
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  166. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match.
    And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.

  167. #367
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    And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.
    yes...it's not the bike, track bikes also have horizontal drop outs.

    If the OP really wants something to keep the axle in place, perhaps you could rig some sort of retainer using the set bolts, maybe flipping a tug bolt around?

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.
    They are moving to modular dropouts on most of their MTB/Fatbikes now. You can still get them as horizontal (SS), thru or QR. Pretty cool stuff.
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  169. #369
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    Anyone use some winter specific shoes? Any recommendations?
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  170. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    They are moving to modular dropouts on most of their MTB/Fatbikes now. You can still get them as horizontal (SS), thru or QR. Pretty cool stuff.
    True, and i like the idea of having choices on the same bike.
    For as much as I like horizontal fork ends (I have several single speeds and IGHs) they do make removing the rear wheel a bit more challenging.

  171. #371
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    Just ordered up a pair of Bulldozers for winter. This is gonna be good... :-)

  172. #372
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    I'm 280 and have been standing and mashing on mine without problem...same with braking. So far my dropouts have not been a problem. I did take the advice of putting some lube on the qr cam so I could get a little more bite.

    Quote Originally Posted by sven98 View Post
    Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match. Thru axle is not an option on this frame. I will try the paint scrape and see. Tugnuts are just for preventing moving forward not backwards with braking.

    Maybe carbon friction paste might work too, I read elsewhere on mtbr.

  173. #373
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    Good to hear SeaHag. I did what everyone said and removed the paint from both sides of both dropouts where the skewer clamps down. I also greased the cam on the skewer...way easier to clamp down now. Ill give it a whirl this weekend.
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  174. #374
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    Lurch Bluto has arrived!

    Well, not exactly arrived (PrePay Ships Jan15th to30th) but looks sweet and only $300 more than now $999 reg Lurch!

    Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped

    Current bikes: 2010 Raleigh Talus 29er with Ergon GP5 grips, Shimano PD-T420 Click'R pedals, Topeak Explorer 29" Disc MTX Rear Rack and Topeak DXP bag.

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  175. #375
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    I wonder if that is the same frame as is on the rigid Lurch or if it is a different frame.

    There was the issue with the lockout clearing the downtube. Maybe they resolved it by using a spacer on the fork.

    Either way it looks really good!

  176. #376
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    The Lurch Lounge

    They bent the down tube as seen on the CAD diagram of the product page for clearance.

  177. #377
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    So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?

  178. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    They bent the down tube as seen on the CAD diagram of the product page for clearance.
    Name:  10624903_10153495415039368_1398909893838253857_n.png
Views: 1792
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    I saw that drawing, but the bike in the pic sure looks like it has a straight downtube.

    The Lurch Lounge-lurch-gry-bluto-21.jpg

    Confused rex is confused.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Lurch Lounge-lurch-yel-bluto-21.jpg  


  179. #379
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I'm sure they don't actually have the frames made yet, just spec'd out. They probably just photoshopped a fork on the original lurch pics for a sales diagram...

  180. #380
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    Yup, just checked and the new picture is a composite of the original picture of the lurch with the front fork of the "bullet" models.

  181. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    Yup, just checked and the new picture is a composite of the original picture of the lurch with the front fork of the "bullet" models.
    The lies, until when the lies.

    well Photoshop anyways.

    That means the current Lurch is not retrofittable.

    Should be called the LurchII if it is a different frame.

  182. #382
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    The Lurch Lounge

    I don't think it would take much to make it fit though. Either a ball peen hammer to the down tube, an angleset headset, putting a small spacer below the crown race of the fork or an external bottom headset bearing... But your right, as it comes from the factory if you tried to turn over 80 you might bump the fork and down tube.

  183. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    I don't think it would take much to make it fit though. Either a ball peen hammer to the down tube, an angleset headset, putting a small spacer below the crown race of the fork or an external bottom headset bearing... But your right, as it comes from the factory if you tried to turn over 80 you might bump the fork and down tube.
    You are right, it shouldn't be too difficult. Strangely enough I don't really want a suspension fork, i just like to have the option.

    Well a Lefty would be cool.

  184. #384
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    Get the medium

    Quote Originally Posted by Cody01 View Post
    So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?
    I'm 5'10" and the medium is almost too small. The small will be like a BMX bike.

  185. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody01 View Post
    So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?
    I am 5'9" and 30" inseam. I went with a small and it fits pretty well, if not slightly cramped, but After riding my friends Medium, I probably could have gone with that and been Ok. Torso and arms are other variables to consider, but adjustments can be made with bars, stem and seat position/height. I suggest the Medium for you.

  186. #386
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    I'm six foot, 32" inseam and an 18" fits well for reach, though the standover is enough that I'm sure a 20" would fit fine. If you like a smaller fit, go small. The bikes come with super long seat posts!

    I'm running a 45mm stem, 760mm bars, with the seat set back some, it's a quick handler for sure.

    And I got a Bluto on the way :-) pics and fit fixed to follow...

  187. #387
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    Has anyone had issues with the spacing between the rear drop outs? My bike arrived in a damaged box, with some paint chips on it, and bikesdirect quickly credited my account for the paint chips. During set up I noticed the rear quick release was on very tight - and was hard to remove- so I didn't mess with it. During the first ride - it popped open and the wheel slipped out - when I tried to put it back on- I have to force the dropouts together by leaning the bike on the ground to get the quick release skewer to fit (even then - it was super tight - and I didn't have enough for the spring, or more then one or two turns on the thread). I took it to the LBS who said the frame is more then an inch out of skew - which seems like a pretty extreme issue to be caused by shipping. They mentioned a frame builder could work on it - but I don't want to hire a frame builder to fix a new bike. Waiting for a response from bikes direct (I just emailed them).

  188. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    Has anyone had issues with the spacing between the rear drop outs? My bike arrived in a damaged box, with some paint chips on it, and bikesdirect quickly credited my account for the paint chips. During set up I noticed the rear quick release was on very tight - and was hard to remove- so I didn't mess with it. During the first ride - it popped open and the wheel slipped out - when I tried to put it back on- I have to force the dropouts together by leaning the bike on the ground to get the quick release skewer to fit (even then - it was super tight - and I didn't have enough for the spring, or more then one or two turns on the thread). I took it to the LBS who said the frame is more then an inch out of skew - which seems like a pretty extreme issue to be caused by shipping. They mentioned a frame builder could work on it - but I don't want to hire a frame builder to fix a new bike. Waiting for a response from bikes direct (I just emailed them).

    How much larger is the space between the forks ends than the hub width? It is not an inch, or is it? I am trying to understand the difference between the fork ends being too far apart and the LBS saying the frame is "out of skew"

    A steel frame can be cold set to bring it back into shape, but it is not ideal and certainly should't need to be do to a new frame.

    Please keep up posted on the development and resolution of your problem.

  189. #389
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    I just picked it up from LBS - it's more then the rear drop outs that are out of whack. They are saying the whole back of the bike is more then an inch off. I've attached some photos that show how far the dropout's are in relation to the length of the QR skewer. If a huge amount of pressure is applied - it is possible to get the QR threaded - but not fully, and with no room for the spring. I'd really not have to do frame work on a new bike - but lets see what Bikesdirect says - all the past customer service reviews are good - so hoping they will swap this one out as well.

    Attachment 924383Attachment 924384

    Quote Originally Posted by rex615 View Post
    Howr much larger is the space between the forks ends than the hub width? It is not an inch, or is it? I am trying to understand the difference between the fork ends being too far apart and the LBS saying the frame is "out of skew"

    A steel frame can be cold set to bring it back into shape, but it is not ideal and certainly should't need to be do to a new frame.

    Please keep up posted on the development and resolution of your problem.

  190. #390
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    Here is a slightly better photo- it' shows the spacing as 8.25" (210mm) - It should be 190mm.


    The Lurch Lounge-photo-1.jpg

  191. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    I've attached some photos
    I can't see the pics. Can you check on your end?

    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    If a huge amount of pressure is applied - it is possible to get the QR threaded - but not fully, and with no room for the spring.
    One would have to believe that if it was that far off at the factory assembly they would have noticed and fixed it on the spot. It isnt a difficult fix if you are a framebuilder. Delicate and precise, yes.


    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    I'd really not have to do frame work on a new bike - but lets see what Bikesdirect says - all the past customer service reviews are good - so hoping they will swap this one out as well.
    Let us know, from the reports (and my own personal experience) so far they have been pretty good about resolving issues.

    Again keep us posted and best of luck.

  192. #392
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    Thanks Rex - Here is a link to the photo - photo 1.JPG : Free Image Host.

  193. #393
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    My response from BD below (only a few hours after I emailed!). Hopefully I'm not hit with the shipping charges and can buy a replacement Lurch at the old price.

    ---
    Hello,
    I have contacted my office and you should receive return instructions shortly.
    Best regards,
    Larry @ Bikes Direct

  194. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by zakfoyer View Post
    Here is a slightly better photo- it' shows the spacing as 8.25" (210mm) - It should be 190mm.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 1.jpg 
Views:	246 
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ID:	924385
    BD leading the charge to the new standard of 210MM spacing to clear 6" tires!!!

    Okay, that was insensitive... I do hope you get a replacement at the same cost.

  195. #395
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    here is the lockout headset if you all upgrade to bluto. May help.
    BLOCKLOCK - ACROS

  196. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    BD leading the charge to the new standard of 210MM spacing to clear 6" tires!!!
    Need a motor for that.

  197. #397
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    "Upgraded" photo of the bent down tube on the Lurch II. Or what ever it will be called.
    Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped

  198. #398
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    The Lurch FS looks pretty sweet!
    17 Fuel EX 9.9 (in progress)
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  199. #399
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    kinda crazy how many folks purchase or consider purchasing the wrong size bike........thinking that it's the correct size........

    rog

  200. #400
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    Went for it tonight. Rides great!

    The Lurch Lounge-photo-1-.jpg
    2012 Pure Fix SS
    2013 Speed Concept 1x11
    2013 Air 9 Carbon SS
    2015 FM190 Fatty
    2015 Emonda SL
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