• 03-09-2015
    CommuterBoy
    1 Attachment(s)
    Looking for advice/help! craigslist purchase imminent! Mukluk Content...
    Hello fatbikers.

    I'm fatbike shopping, but I've never owned one. I found this Mukluk 3 on craigslist, and I could make the trip to buy it tomorrow, but I don't know much about the Mukluks. I know the size of the bike is right, checked the geo on the Salsa website and read everything they have there. I think this is a mostly stock Mukluk 3.

    Questions:
    Dude said it had the "non drilled" rims. That sounds heavy! Can I drill them out myself, or are drilled rims specially formulated different rims? Not stoked on the rims. If they're stock, they're the Surly Daryls? The website says they have the drilled ones, but this guy said it came with these non drilled ones... ?

    How fat of a tire can you fit on these bad boys? Frame clearance wise...I'm assuming it's got a triple up front and I'd need to go single/spacers to get chain clearance...I get that concept. Could it fit the Vee snowshoes? or a 4.7ish tire out back? I intend on going 1x eventually. Was going to buy a Framed Alaskan that comes with 1x, but this seems like a good deal...

    Can I run said 4.7ish tire on these stock rims, assuming they're the non-drilled Daryls?

    Again assuming Daryls, can I run 'em tubeless? Can I drill them and then run them tubeless?

    Can you tell from the picture what year it is? How old is this sucker?

    Frame bag/extra set of tires (vee somethings...sand/street he said) included... is $1000 a good deal for this thing?

    thanks for any input... 80 mile drive to snag this thing tomorrow if it's really a deal.

    Attachment 971397
  • 03-09-2015
    Dave in Ozark
    If they're Rolling Darryl's you can drill them and run tube less. Not sure on any of your other questions- I do think it is a double up front though.

    I would do it for a grand- after beating them up at $900 for a bit.
  • 03-09-2015
    CommuterBoy
    derp...nevermind
  • 03-09-2015
    NYrr496
    You can absolutely drill those Darryls and run them tubeless.
  • 03-09-2015
    dudeist
    I'd check the Salsa website again. They probably made two colors per year, like Surly does. Once you know the year, you can recheck the specs. Double, triple, or single chainrings, Hub spacing, etc. Or ask the seller before driving 80 miles. Don't panic, though, there will be lots of these deals soon.
  • 03-09-2015
    ntm1973
    OP,

    That seems a little expensive for that bike. I've seen them go for $800.00 in my area (PA.) Keep in mind that the season is coming to a close and new bikes continue to come out.

    The other big thing is: what kind of tires and how much tread is left? Tires are expensive and you are getting close to a new bike price when you put good rubber on your ride.

    I would hold out for another several weeks if you can, there are plenty of mukluks around.

    Now.......that said: please tell me how to ride my bike to work carrying four sheets of 1/2'' plywood, a table saw and 10-8ft 2x4's? No excuses right? Thanks in advance :)
  • 03-09-2015
    CommuterBoy
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
    OP,

    That seems a little expensive for that bike. I've seen them go for $800.00 in my area (PA.) Keep in mind that the season is coming to a close and new bikes continue to come out.

    I hear ya, but finding an XL is tough. 1st one I've seen.

    Quote:

    The other big thing is: what kind of tires and how much tread is left? Tires are expensive and you are getting close to a new bike price when you put good rubber on your ride.
    Nates, that are supposedly basically new, and Vee Rubber somethings...he described them as more of a sand/road tire.

    Quote:

    I would hold out for another several weeks if you can, there are plenty of mukluks around.

    Now.......that said: please tell me how to ride my bike to work carrying four sheets of 1/2'' plywood, a table saw and 10-8ft 2x4's? No excuses right? Thanks in advance :)
    Yeah, you're gonna have to stash the tablesaw and plywood at work. That will really lighten up the trailer :lol:

    I want to believe that there are plenty around, but I'm just not finding XL's... I'm just over 6'2", and a large is usually a little small for me.
  • 03-09-2015
    CommuterBoy
    It looks like a 2014 based on the salsa website. came with a double chainring up front, and the unholy rolling darryls. No issues drilling those out for weight? Someone have a write up on that?

    can anyone tell me definitively how fat of a tire the frame will accommodate?
  • 03-10-2015
    NYrr496
    I'm fairly confident a Dillinger 5 will fit in that frame. I'll find out for sure and get back to you. Lou will not fit.
    I know what you mean about tough finding XL's. I'm tall. Luckily, the guy that owns the shop I build wheels at is 2" taller than I am, so I get first crack at anything he sells off.
  • 03-10-2015
    NYrr496
    Just checked... Dillinger 5 will fit that bike with a single chain ring up front.
  • 03-10-2015
    CommuterBoy
    Sweet, thanks a bunch. So the frame is right in that 5" area then... curious about the Vee snowshoe... that's a 4.7 so should work? Not a deal breaker, but I want clearance for something in that range.

    does anyone know of any issues I should check with this frame/fork? I see the fork was recalled on the Salsa website... is that a major issue?

    What about those "alternator" dropouts? Any issues with them?

    Thanks guys... I think I'm gonna snag this thing
  • 03-10-2015
    NYrr496
    The Dillinger5 is a "small 5". It's clearly larger than the Dillinger 4 but no where near as big as Lou which is called 4.8.
    It depends on the tire. I wouldn't automatically say any 5" tire will fit in there.
  • 03-10-2015
    CommuterBoy
    Gotcha, thanks. Mainly I know I want to go bigger than the Nates that it has on it. Sounds like there is plenty of room to do that.
  • 03-10-2015
    Captain_America1976
    I picked up the same bike in large in December. It is a 2014. If it doesn't have the new fork yet, you should take it a shop to get it swapped out. The old fork has a small back logo on the outside of the leg. Safety Recall When I first got mine it weighed 35 lbs, 7 oz. I was able to get it down to 30 lbs with new tires, a little work, and some parts bin stuff. I swapped the 2 x 10 X5 drivetrain to 1 x 10 XT with a narowwide ring. I kept the original cranks. I swapped out the bars and grips for a Jones H bend 710mm bar and Ergon grips. I probable gained weight there. I swapped out the brakes for XT. I also swapped out the post and saddle to something a little lighter. I drilled out the rims. There is a lot of info to be found on MTBR about the subject. I spent a few hours doing it, and I dropped about a pound total. I also swapped out the tires to a non-wirebead tire, and that alone dropped a ton of weight. Finally I set the tires up tubeless with tape and sealant. My main goal was to get it down to around 30 lbs, and I was able to do that without spending too much money or time. I highly recommend drilling the rims, new tires, and tubeless. I would say 4 lbs of the weight I dropped was in wheels, and it is very noticeable.
  • 03-10-2015
    dudeist
    Search Results for*1 3/8 hole saw*at The Home Depot The Milwaukee Shockwave one works great with cutting oil. The shoulder prevents hitting the spokes, and smoother cuts than regular bi-metal.
  • 03-10-2015
    joebikesdirect
    1 Attachment(s)
    bike packing asked and answered
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
    OP,
    Now.......that said: please tell me how to ride my bike to work carrying four sheets of 1/2'' plywood, a table saw and 10-8ft 2x4's? No excuses right? Thanks in advance :)

    how about like this?
    Attachment 971687
  • 03-10-2015
    CommuterBoy
    Sweet, thanks guys. I bought it. It's missing one of the bolts that lock the alternator dropout swing plate into place. It almost looks like the head of a quick release axle. Where can I order one of those?
  • 03-10-2015
    CommuterBoy
    I saw that fork recall. It does have the recalled fork on it. What was the issue? And will they swap it with the same color?
  • 03-10-2015
    MuklukMike
    IMO, great deal, if the bike fits and you like it. If you go 1x, Bud/Lou will fit.

    Some of the forks developed cracks, Salsa replaced with new (same color). Might want to check with the original owner to see if it was replaced...

    Mike
  • 03-11-2015
    bme107
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CommuterBoy View Post
    It's missing one of the bolts that lock the alternator dropout swing plate into place. It almost looks like the head of a quick release axle. Where can I order one of those?

    Take a picture of the area. Not following your wording.
  • 03-11-2015
    tyriverag
    Dude said it had the "non drilled" rims. That sounds heavy! Can I drill them out myself, or are drilled rims specially formulated different rims? Not stoked on the rims. If they're stock, they're the Surly Daryls? The website says they have the drilled ones, but this guy said it came with these non drilled ones... ?

    - They're likely the stock unholy rollying darryls, which you can drill.

    How fat of a tire can you fit on these bad boys? Frame clearance wise...I'm assuming it's got a triple up front and I'd need to go single/spacers to get chain clearance...I get that concept. Could it fit the Vee snowshoes? or a 4.7ish tire out back? I intend on going 1x eventually. Was going to buy a Framed Alaskan that comes with 1x, but this seems like a good deal...

    - You can fit five inches up front no problem, five in the back going to 1x. Frame clearance is fine, chain clearance maybe not.

    Can I run said 4.7ish tire on these stock rims, assuming they're the non-drilled Daryls?

    - Yeah no problem.

    Again assuming Daryls, can I run 'em tubeless? Can I drill them and then run them tubeless?

    - Yeah, may take some playing around, effort. Don't know of anybody that went tubeless effortlessly without any prior experience going tubeless DIY-style.

    Can you tell from the picture what year it is? How old is this sucker?

    - 2014 Muk 3. Solid bike. I considered before going Farley 6. Awesome looking bike.

    Frame bag/extra set of tires (vee somethings...sand/street he said) included... is $1000 a good deal for this thing?

    - I'd pay $1000 for that. Comes with the nates, right? Obviously see if you can go lower depending what he offeres. If it's in good shape, probably won't be on sale for long.
  • 03-11-2015
    CommuterBoy
    1 Attachment(s)
    ^^ Thank you, good info. I bought it. They are the Darryls. And I'm ghetto tubeless on 3 bikes currently, just haven't done a fatbike. I'm (over?) confident in my tubeless skills :cool:



    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    Take a picture of the area. Not following your wording.

    I figured it out. It is missing (on the drive side) the big nut and long bolt from this kit. It's the lower bolt that holds the plate in the correct position in it's "swing." The upper bolt is there, so the plate is basically not locked into place:
    Salsa Alternator Hardware Set for Steel Frames
    (that's the kit for steel frames, but I ordered the right one for my aluminum frame)

    I panicked when I found it missing, because that seems like it could put some bad strain on other places if you get movement there in that plate... I took the rear end apart last night and all it seems to have is some wear where the little adjustment bolt on the plate itself contacts the dropout... no visible damage anywhere else. No idea if the guy had been riding it like that for a while, or what... I was worried about it, but it doesn't look to me like anything to make a fuss about.

    Attachment 971842
  • 03-11-2015
    bme107
    I would have never guessed that you were missing the bolt which clamps the Alternator to the frame. Figured it would have been the tensioning bolt used with SS or lengthening the drive train.

    The tensioning bolt has marred the frame but you should still be able to make it work if needed. Could probably file the area down to smooth it out if it's finicky. It's really just there to position the Alternator, the side bolt you were missing is taking the load as well as the upper pivot bolt. I'm not even riding with the tensioning bolts.
  • 03-11-2015
    CommuterBoy
    ^^ Yeah the tensioning bolt is there. Weird one. It's obvious that those big ones are taking the brunt of the load, so I was worried that something else would be picking up that load if it was ridden that way, potentially doing some real damage. I guess if anything, the upper bolt holding the alternator to the frame would have broken. It felt to me like the rear hub bearings were loose...that's how I noticed it. if you grabbed the wheel and jiggled it back and forth you got a little knock, which was the alternator moving back and forth where that bolt was missing. I felt the play when I was buying the bike, but figured it was just a quick hub bearing nut twist to fix, and I didn't know to look at the dropouts for missing hardware. How you could ride it like that without tracking down that play is beyond me. I'm picky about the bike feeling "tight", but even if I wasn't, I think I'd notice that...