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  1. #201
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    Figures... I found a DLR and literarily the next day a Lefty Max 140 was put on CL it was in excellent shape and a very good price. I bought that too! Can't wait to get this thing on my Maxi.


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    Cannondale Super V700
    '14 Charge Cooker Maxi lefty and stuff

  2. #202
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    Olaf!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lefty for Fat Bikes-image.jpg  


  3. #203
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    Been loving my Fat lefty since January! Here we are during the 24 Hours of Adrenaline in Canmore a few weeks ago. It is as fun on dirt as it is on snow!
    Lefty for Fat Bikes-image.jpg
    2014 Motobecane Boris (Lefty Max)
    2013 Santa Cruz Heckler
    2007 Jamis Dragon

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  4. #204
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    wow- 60mm offset on the olaf. not sure if this was mentioend before? seems quite a bit...interesting.
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  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    wow- 60mm offset on the olaf. not sure if this was mentioend before? seems quite a bit...interesting.
    Same offset of the 'old' lefty supermax 29er... Seems pretty straightforward to me.

  6. #206
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    Err, yep I know- just that the super max is aimed at going down more than along? 60mm offset is quite a bit more than usual... I think it's good! My fat bike has near that offset albeit with a rigid. I just found it interesting!
    For a rock steady Gas Tank bag > the DeWidget

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  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    the super max is aimed at going down more than along?
    Nah, not really, it goes along just as well as down. I don't find mine to be lacking in XC type chops at all!
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  8. #208
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    What's the widest tire a Supermax can take, on a centered rim and with no rubs?
    3"? 3.5"? 3.8"?

  9. #209
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    I looked into this before and the answer I was previously provided was 4.0

  10. #210
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    I always thought lefties were lighter than the competition. This might ride a lot better, but I'm surprised to see it's almost 500g heavier than the bluto.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    I always thought lefties were lighter than the competition. This might ride a lot better, but I'm surprised to see it's almost 500g heavier than the bluto.
    Stiffness, strength, and tire clearance ain't free!
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  12. #212
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    You can't compare a burly fork like the Olaf to a noodle fork like the Bluto.

    If you consider the Olaf stiffness and burl, it is more on par with an Enduro fork, so it's weight actually seems on the low side

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Stiffness, strength, and tire clearance ain't free!

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Stiffness, strength, and tire clearance ain't free!
    Always hard to get an answer out of fan boys

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    You can't compare a burly fork like the Olaf to a noodle fork like the Bluto.

    If you consider the Olaf stiffness and burl, it is more on par with an Enduro fork, so it's weight actually seems on the low side
    I can dig that. So this should be compared to a pike? If they made that fork in fat flavor of course.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    I can dig that. So this should be compared to a pike? If they made that fork in fat flavor of course.
    Lower leg is 36 mm and the upper, 46mm, so yes, Pike at least.....
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  16. #216
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    Fat Lefty

    I have to vouch for Craig's professional behaviour: after much discussing with him about options and opportunities and so on ( since March, actually!!), I sent my Max to MCS for fattening and damper switching from SPV to PBR.

    Craig has been ever supportive, kind and helpful during the whole process, going way beyond his duties to help me!!
    I feel he's really passionate about his job, and I never felt forced to do anything: he always ... Left me free to decide about what I wanted to do with my fork.
    This is the end result:
    Lefty for Fat Bikes-image.jpg

    A Snowshoe 2XL on a 103 mm rim, mounted no problem.

    Right now the frame this beast will be grafted on is in the building: i'll post more photos when it will be completed.
    In the meantime, my thanks and respect to Craig!

    Fellow fat bikers, blow your Blutos and ready your Renegades as much as you like, for me the Holy Grail still remains the Lefty.
    Alberto

  17. #217
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    Holy huge tire

    That's awesome on a lefty

  18. #218
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    Thanks Alberto very kind of you, only wish your frame was done so you could give it a ride!
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by albystarvation View Post
    I have to vouch for Craig's professional behaviour: after much discussing with him about options and opportunities and so on ( since March, actually!!), I sent my Max to MCS for fattening and damper switching from SPV to PBR.

    Craig has been ever supportive, kind and helpful during the whole process, going way beyond his duties to help me!!
    I feel he's really passionate about his job, and I never felt forced to do anything: he always ... Left me free to decide about what I wanted to do with my fork.
    This is the end result:


    A Snowshoe 2XL on a 103 mm rim, mounted no problem.

    Right now the frame this beast will be grafted on is in the building: i'll post more photos when it will be completed.
    In the meantime, my thanks and respect to Craig!

    Fellow fat bikers, blow your Blutos and ready your Renegades as much as you like, for me the Holy Grail still remains the Lefty.
    Alberto
    Look great! that is a huge tire/wheel.

    So the PBR upgrade, saves some weight, does it ride better? I really have zero complaints with mine, but if it can be better.....

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    So the PBR upgrade, saves some weight, does it ride better? I really have zero complaints with mine, but if it can be better.....
    Drops 1/2 lb, adds lockout with blow off valving, and is far more tunable to suit preference as you can adjust air volume to make it linear, or more progressive.

    But yes, the coil sprung forks (particularly the TPC version) were like butter dripping off a hot biscuit!
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  21. #221
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    Personally I think switching out the coil to air spring is sacrilege. My lefty max ffd is buttery smooth and I think the coil spring plays a big part. Especially on the fat bikes where guys will be riding in the snow and freezing temps, why would you want that uncertainty of the air seals?

    My other bike has had a totem air, and now a durolux air, and the main air chamber leaks air into the lowers and is generally a pain in the ass. This is with proper maintenance. whats a fat bike wheel weight? 5 pounds? who cares about saving 200g

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuul75 View Post
    Personally I think switching out the coil to air spring is sacrilege. My lefty max ffd is buttery smooth and I think the coil spring plays a big part. Especially on the fat bikes where guys will be riding in the snow and freezing temps, why would you want that uncertainty of the air seals?

    My other bike has had a totem air, and now a durolux air, and the main air chamber leaks air into the lowers and is generally a pain in the ass. This is with proper maintenance. whats a fat bike wheel weight? 5 pounds? who cares about saving 200g
    That is a very good point. I really have no complaints about mine right now. Waiting for it to be shipped back from recent trip....getting stir crazy lol. need to ride.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuul75 View Post
    Personally I think switching out the coil to air spring is sacrilege. My lefty max ffd is buttery smooth and I think the coil spring plays a big part. Especially on the fat bikes where guys will be riding in the snow and freezing temps, why would you want that uncertainty of the air seals?

    My other bike has had a totem air, and now a durolux air, and the main air chamber leaks air into the lowers and is generally a pain in the ass. This is with proper maintenance. whats a fat bike wheel weight? 5 pounds? who cares about saving 200g
    I'll not quibble much.

    That said, the PBR update is pretty awesome, and, other than the current crop of Solo Air piston wave washers sucking (might be the issue with your Totem to be honest), they are bombproof.

    I ride in sub zero temps, no issues with air.

    If you like buttery though, get rid of that FFD slug and drop a TPC one in, holy smokes did it make a difference.

    The top seals on the coil forks did die a lot more frequently too, so a lot of the puking forks got much more long term reliable with the PBR's too....
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  24. #224
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    This thread is making me sad and avaricious, because my current bike (907 aluminum) has too tall of a head tube fit a Lefty, and due to me being built like a linebacker, a Bluto is pure noodly shit that isn't worth my time.

    If I get a Lefty-capable bike, it will mean a new frame at the very least, and because head tubes tend to be really tall at XL sizes, it may mean a custom frame. It might just be easier to sell my current fatbike and pick up a Cannondale.

    I've read through the whole thread, and I don't have a clear picture of what to do.

    - Say 'screw it' and sell the 907 for a Cannondale?
    - Say 'screw the weight' and get an Ice Cream Truck frame?
    - Get a custom Benefat or Lenz with a Lefty-sized head tube?
    - ... something else I'm not considering?

    Any info would be appreciated.

  25. #225
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    Options 1-3 all work.

    What do you WANT?
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    This thread is making me sad and avaricious, because my current bike (907 aluminum) has too tall of a head tube fit a Lefty, and due to me being built like a linebacker, a Bluto is pure noodly shit that isn't worth my time.

    Have you actually tried a Bluto? I know they don't have the "stiffest" rep, but I don't think they are nearly as flexy as you do either. I am wondering if you have actually ridden one and I am not asking that in a derogatory way, I am honestly curious.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    ...a Bluto is pure noodly shit that isn't worth my time.
    pure noodly shit? seriously?

    i am 200lbs without gear and the Bluto is fine for me even at high speeds over chunk on my 29+ summer wheelset. no its not a fat Pike but its still a huge improvement for ALOT of different types of terrain.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    This thread is making me sad and avaricious, because my current bike (907 aluminum) has too tall of a head tube fit a Lefty, and due to me being built like a linebacker, a Bluto is pure noodly shit that isn't worth my time.

    If I get a Lefty-capable bike, it will mean a new frame at the very least, and because head tubes tend to be really tall at XL sizes, it may mean a custom frame. It might just be easier to sell my current fatbike and pick up a Cannondale.

    I've read through the whole thread, and I don't have a clear picture of what to do.

    - Say 'screw it' and sell the 907 for a Cannondale?
    - Say 'screw the weight' and get an Ice Cream Truck frame?
    - Get a custom Benefat or Lenz with a Lefty-sized head tube?
    - ... something else I'm not considering?

    Any info would be appreciated.
    I had the head tube on my 135mm 907 milled down to fit a lefty. Between that and a Crank Brothers Iodine headset, I was able to get within 5mm of max clearance and with a Panaracer fat-b-nimble, I got 120 mm of travel.
    https://instagram.com/p/3evOexo6xI/

    my new 907 avalanche fits it without any modification, although I did use the dust cap from the iodine to maximize the travel.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by honkonbobo View Post
    pure noodly shit? seriously?

    i am 200lbs without gear and the Bluto is fine for me even at high speeds over chunk on my 29+ summer wheelset. no its not a fat Pike but its still a huge improvement for ALOT of different types of terrain.
    it must be nice to be so light. at max travel, the Bluto is noodly. at 100mm, it's ok, but I still noticed the flex, while my 120mm lefty does not perceptibly flex at all.
    Last edited by Gigantic; 11-06-2015 at 10:18 AM.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by honkonbobo View Post
    pure noodly shit? seriously?

    i am 200lbs without gear and the Bluto is fine for me even at high speeds over chunk on my 29+ summer wheelset. no its not a fat Pike but its still a huge improvement for ALOT of different types of terrain.
    I can see why you're OK, but I'm 270.

    I had the RockShock the Bluto was based on before on a rental bike and even though it was in great, nearly new shape it was terrible - stiction and twisty. I need a burlier fork like a Pike or some other 34mm stanchion fork.

  31. #231
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    sometime you need to ride someone else's stiff fork to realize how noodly your current fork is. Its all relative.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuul75 View Post
    sometime you need to ride someone else's stiff fork to realize how noodly your current fork is. Its all relative.
    I'm pretty sure that's why my (now) ex-wife left me.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    I can see why you're OK, but I'm 270.

    I had the RockShock the Bluto was based on before on a rental bike and even though it was in great, nearly new shape it was terrible - stiction and twisty. I need a burlier fork like a Pike or some other 34mm stanchion fork.
    270? Beefy.

    This is the problem bike manufacturers and component companies have to deal with. Forks that a 150lb guy can ride, and hold up to somebody almost double his weight. Gotta be tough to design bike parts and frames anymore I would think. Light, strong, or cheap, as they say, pick 2.

  34. #234
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    Please take some pics of the shifter on the drive side of your seatpost clamp and its functions. I have some guesses, and I like it already.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Germany-Chris View Post
    have the lefty tag behind me and am very satisfied. Driveability and smoothness are increased significantly. some downhills and difficult passages are through the suspension now possible or can be mastered even safer.

    Attachment 930400

    Attachment 930401

    Dear greetings from Germany
    Please show pictures of what that shifter is for on the drive-side of your seatpost clamp.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickHarrington View Post
    Please show pictures of what that shifter is for on the drive-side of your seatpost clamp.
    looks like it's for a rear derailleur... just my guess

  37. #237
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    Craig was fresh out of stock when I tried to order a pair, instead I blew my money on 3D-printer. It's quite handy when making molds

    Just a mild prototype:


  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmk View Post
    Craig was fresh out of stock when I tried to order a pair, instead I blew my money on 3D-printer. It's quite handy when making molds

    Just a mild prototype:

    Thats awesome!

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    looks like it's for a rear derailleur... just my guess
    I'd say you're correct.


  40. #240
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    I got a pair of alu-clamps from a friend and after a short test ride

    Sure does make a big difference on bumpy snow mobile tracks.

    My 1st Lefty and it feels so smooth! Mine is with coil + tpc internals.


  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    I'd say you're correct.

    What's the deal with that bike?!

  42. #242
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    Since nobody else said it, I will, great reply. very funny dude.

  43. #243
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    Hello, Yes, I have now the Olaf fork, but not the required LEFTY 73 hub... Any idea where can I purchase it? Is there any alternative hubs for the Olaf available? Thanks!

  44. #244
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    Lefty hub for Olaf

    Quote Originally Posted by Ari71 View Post
    Hello, Yes, I have now the Olaf fork, but not the required LEFTY 73 hub... Any idea where can I purchase it? Is there any alternative hubs for the Olaf available? Thanks!
    Give the guys at onyx racing a shout, they'll sort you out, custom colours, etching and good quality.

  45. #245
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    I'm old and I don't like to eat mud, hopefully this will reduce the amount of grit in my mouth while riding:


    All the fenders are making the bike look like it belongs to Batman...

  46. #246
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    Hello,

    Managed to install the new Cannondale Olaf fork into my fatbike - what a sweet ride!

    Lefty for Fat Bikes-20160523_172958_resized_1.jpgLefty for Fat Bikes-20160523_173021_resized_1.jpg

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ari71 View Post
    Hello,

    Managed to install the new Cannondale Olaf fork into my fatbike - what a sweet ride!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Were you able to buy the Olaf separately? What was the price on that?

  48. #248
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    I'd love to know that too


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    '14 Charge Cooker Maxi lefty and stuff

  49. #249
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    That thing's a beast. Love that the supermax allows you to avoid an offset lacing job.

  50. #250
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    Hello again,

    I ordered the Olaf (134mm headtube version) from Germany, 'http://www.bunnyhop.de'

    Cannondale LEFTY OLAF Alloy PBR 100mm, 26 Zoll Federgabel-LeftyOlaf-MASTER

    with the steerer tube:

    Cannondale KIT,STEERER,LEFTY 1 1/8" und TAPER / Gabelschaft-KH106/

    Total price was about 1100 eur deliver to Finland, where I ride...

    The only problem was that the Olaf uses a new hub called "Lefty73", which was not available until last week... (no other hub is compatible)

    Anyway, very happy now that I chose the Olaf instead of Bluto... I think it was well worth waiting for!! Really changed the rigid carbon fatty into totally new level!

    My old BadBoy got now a bigger brother...

    Lefty for Fat Bikes-afat.jpg

  51. #251
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    FYI- I have a Lefty Olaf and 73 hub/wheel posted for sale in the classifieds.

  52. #252
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    Finally bought a Lefty Max for my ICT. Doesn't look to be in the spiffiest condition but it's a Max. Will have to see what MCS can do with it.

    Super stoked.

  53. #253
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    can't wait to see it mounted up.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  54. #254
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    Whose hubs are ya'll using? Just seeing what people like.

    Will I need that funky four prong tool to screw the cap deally on?

    Also, typically I lace my wheels and then throw it on the bike for truing (never used a truing stand). Is this method still doable with a lefty?

  55. #255
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    Project 321 makes sexy stuff, non pin tool cap bolt too.

    Cannondale no longer offers standard Lefty hubs, so P321 is about to release a dumbed down version of theirs, and it'll save around 40 bucks over their fancy stuff.

    All the others are decent, if you're talking name brand. They're all just an aluminum tube with bearings pushed in, at the end of the day....

    Avoid the cheapo Circus Monkey hubs like the plague. Worst hub quality I've ever seen, utter junk.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  56. #256
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    Ha! I saw the circus monkey ones and wondered how good they could be.

    I'll take 321 hub just so I don't need another tool. Pretty schwanky colors too...

    Any issues dishing the wheel on the fork vs. a stand?

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post

    Any issues dishing the wheel on the fork vs. a stand?
    For fatbikes? No, as you dish for clearance only, you center the wheel with the clamps.....

    You will need a Lefty hub tool for building though, if you want to use a stand. P321 sells those too.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Will I need that funky four prong tool to screw the cap deally on?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I'll take 321 hub just so I don't need another tool.
    The cap with the 4 holes is just a cap and surface for the actual axle bolt to back out against, facilitating the self-extracting feature of the main axle bolt. You can use the special tool or a pin spanner wrench to snug it down. Stabbing it with a pair of needle-nose pliers would get it tight enough to work too. I believe it is a left handed thread.





    I've built 2 fat lefty wheels both with used Cannondale hubs, lefty adapter and Pugsley offset wheel building tools. One w/ Marge Lite the other w/ a Clownshoe. Marge Lite was dead nuts off the stand. Clownshoe had to be dished to the right more once on the bike, maybe it was just bad spoke math on my part.

  59. #259
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    Hey guys!

    So I mounted my lefty on my ict and loved the fork to death. Stupid simple to use and functionally fantastic.

    However, I dumped the bike on a quick descent that tacod my rim pretty badly. The wheel was true and tension was within 1 point on either side using a park tension meter.

    I struggle to believe that a 150 spaced wheel wouldn't have survived this seeing as how I've wrecked harder on a bluto wheel without issue.

    Also, with a 5 inch tire up front dished 7 or 8 mm away from the fork, I got rubbing during hard cranking.

    Is this related to an offset wheel build or using a rolling Darryl? I'm on mulefuts now, are they any stiffer?

    Just trying to decide which direction I want to go with this.

  60. #260
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    If need be, dish it over a tad more so you get no rub, and recenter with the clamps.

    From what I've heard, the SR's don't build as stable of an offset wheel, compared to the Surlys, but I like the SR's for symmetrical for sure.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  61. #261
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    Craig, I don't remember off the top of my head what spoke lengths I used but I know I ran them by you.

    My concern was with the tension imbalance I was getting and that I was nearly to threads on the disk side. I ended up going to a 4 inch tire.

    Perhaps I was doing something wrong?

  62. #262
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    Nothing wrong, nope.

    You'll note that different spoke calcs give different #'s, often for different brands, etc.

    All this leads to the fact that there's a little variation in true lengths.

    Is it awesome to run with two threads showing out the top of the nip? Not ideal. But as long as you have brass as opposed to alloy, you shouldn't have any issues, and if being there, is better for you than spending the $15 whatever for a mm or two longer spoke, you'll likely ride and smile.

    Going narrower is another way to solve that too, of course.

    Tension imbalance. I wouldn't worry too much about it. For years, Campy road hub would be drum tight on the drive side, and palpably loose on the non. Why? I don't know. I built plenty and they held up under plenty of hard charging roadies.

    Tension imbalance is more about the guys who want to sell you off center spoke bed rims and weird hubs, than anything that truly affects performance in the real world. Those guys need to step away from the slide rule, and ride a bit more!

    Do note, I'm talking about modest imbalances in an otherwise well built wheel. The clueless shade tree mechanic can of course, screw things up if they try hard enough. Don't get me started on shade tree wrenches, and the CraigsList purchased bike I have in the shop now, dripping with high zoot, internet purchased parts, with carbon wheels that are hopelessly screwed up, with 4 different spoke lengths, in different counts, in the same wheel.....
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  63. #263
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    Okay, that eases my mind a bit.

    Thanks Craig (as always you are the man).

  64. #264
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    Would an unholy darryl be significantly stiffer than a holy one? I'd take the weight penalty for a wheel I can thrash.

  65. #265
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    Guessing not, but I can't really say with any authority....

    It'd be cheaper!
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  66. #266
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    Alright one more question.

    I've noticed near the top of my boot is damp with oil. Is that normal?

  67. #267
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    That's where the vent is. If you recently installed a new pbr damper Check to see it's not leaking. one of the ends came unscrewed on mine.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I've noticed near the top of my boot is damp with oil. Is that normal?
    Top is where your breather hole (vent) boot is. The foam element inside has oil on it.

    If it's truly wet? Not likely to be that.

    A sheen that attracts some dirt and looks a little wetter? Likely that.

    Damper oil would typically exit the bottom end of the boot.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  69. #269
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    Thanks to Craig of Mendon cycles. He did a fantastic job on the wheel build and rebuilding my lefty fork. I could have went with a Bluto but the love for the lefty is strong.

    The famous mendon clamps. max 130. Surly M.O.B.D. rim

    I'm really loving the new FB hardtail. Just did a quick loop around my local trail and my upper body is thanking me big time coming from a rigid set up.






  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by eam611 View Post
    Thanks to Craig of Mendon cycles. He did a fantastic job on the wheel build and rebuilding my lefty fork. I could have went with a Bluto but the love for the lefty is strong.

    The famous mendon clamps. max 130. Surly M.O.B.D. rim

    I'm really loving the new FB hardtail. Just did a quick loop around my local trail and my upper body is thanking me big time coming from a rigid set up.





    Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!
    I just wanna ride...

  71. #271
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    Thanks for posting, looks awesome!

    While technically functional as is, just fyi? The top clamp is upside down.

    Safe, but it's cause your fork's effective axle to crown to be a fair bit shorter than intended....

    Enjoy!
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  72. #272
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    Hey Craig. Thanks for pointing that out. yes, safety first. I left a lot of space on the steerer tube just incase I need to invert the clamp.

  73. #273
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    I've got a short 100mm head tube on my Mukluk and have been riding the top clamp inverted for 3 years to keep the stem/bars as low as possible. Both clamps rest on the Lefty body where they are meant to be and I've had no problems. YMMV.

  74. #274
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    I just put together a Twenty2 cycles (steel) Bully with a Lefty. It has a very short (100mm) head tube also. I mounted the clamp in the direction I believe it is intended, and the clamps are directly on the clamping surfaces of the fork. I thought about mounting upside down but decided to use spacers instead. Does this look okay Craig?

    Also, doesn't the bottom clamp actually control A-C? My fork is shoved down into the clamp as far as it will go. The top clamp can't go any lower because of the relief hence the spacers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lefty for Fat Bikes-img_0805.jpg  


  75. #275
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    If the upper clamp is upside down, it moves the pinch bolt up. That means the top of the fork would need to be higher to line up with the clamp.

    The upper clamp should really be what dictates a2c.

  76. #276
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    Correct, odd as it sounds, upper clamp determines a2c.

    As I said before, it's safe to run it upside down, it's just not how the design is intended to work.

    Mike, yours can be lowered (fork lengthened, hta slackened) by getting the spacer that's under the top clamp, above it, and there's also silver I see above it at the fork end, that can be slid down too.

    Happy with it as is?

    Rock it.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  77. #277
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    I have a fat clamped DLR 100 lefty which I got 2nd hand on ebay in the UK. The clamps look like MCS's, but I have no history.

    I have taken the top cap off and it is a year 2000 (0ss100), the lockout has a small effect to the compression, should it lock out totally (like on my XLR 29er lefty) or is more subtle or is it broken...., the hexagonal nut on top of the damper does rotate OK.

    Secondly how can i confirm if the travel has been reduced without taking the lefty apart? The HDTL200 tool is very hard to purchase, so I cannot check internally.

    Thanks to all the Fat bike enthusiasts on mtbr, I had to add one to my quiver (on-one fatty with rolling daryls / was XT Di2 when brought now cable XT 11s).

  78. #278
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    There'd be white clips on the damper shaft if you remove the top collar, and compress the fork.

    As for lockout? May jus be time for service, could be low on oil, previous owner may have twisted the ever loving crap out of the lockout, trying to "make it work" only to damage the now irreplaceable internals, the list is endless, but I'd start with a service including all new seals.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  79. #279
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    Lefty for Fat Bikes-2019-12-02-22.07.48.jpgLefty for Fat Bikes-2019-12-02-22.08.16.jpg

    my fully custom own project. Mongoose Argus frame, Lefty Max (with Jake internals) limited to 80mm travel, set to 50mm rake, Lefty 50 hub with 25mm offset drilled rim. rides great )
    Last edited by Shkoder; 12-05-2019 at 02:24 AM.

  80. #280
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    Looks nice! How much travel can you actually use?
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet Julio View Post
    Looks nice! How much travel can you actually use?
    thank you. I can use 80mm from 100. original telescope was 130mm but internals are limited to 100. also I have added 20mm spacer

  82. #282
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    I have a Lefty Max 140 that Craig converted to PBR for me. But I think the head tube is too long for the Lefty to fit. It's 150mm long.
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet Julio View Post
    Looks nice! How much travel can you actually use?
    Depends on which Lefty you started with and what size tire you're running. (and if you fudge the adjustable clamping locations) 80-110mm is the realistic range if you go by the book and typical 4.0 to 4.8 tires on an old Max.

    Riding my 2004-vintage Lefty Max tonight. Been going strong for 6 years on my Mukluk.

  84. #284
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    I just figured out that I can use a ZS top crown and an IS lower crown for additional stack of 8mm top and 1mm lower. That gives me a total of 154mm which fits the long version of Project 321's Lefty adapters. I figure I'll reduce travel to 80mm, but I'll know better after I get it set up. The Lefty bub lacing to the fat rim is really odd. Any issues with the major offset?
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  85. #285
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    I built up a Marge Lite wheel and a Clown Shoe, both to the non-drive side spoke holes only. You need a Lefty hub adapter to build the wheel. And to it you add a Pugsley offset adapter on the drive side. This will push the hub to the left and properly offset for the Lefty.

    If you have an Olaf, then all you need is the correctly sized hub and wheel building hub adapter for it.

  86. #286
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    My clamps will work up to 165 mm total stack, beyond that, the tall version fit up to 185.

    Sounds like you may be thinking P321 clamp sets will work for fat? If so, they will not, just FYI.

    I've not had any issues with the offset rim wheel builds, nor have the legions of happy Pugsley and Moonlanger riders out there. The offset used, is always within the range of those two, for their stock front and rear wheels, which are 17.5 and 28 mm respectively.

    As mentioned, you just use the Pugsely wheel building adapter on the Lefty hub adapters *driveside*, for the build and dishing, you might need to tweak dish depending on exact rim and tire combo used, but dish is nebulous, and solely for tire clearance, as final centering of the tire on the frame, is done with the clamps.
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  87. #287
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    Great information Craig. Which offset is better for the build? I was looking at the Sun Ringle Mulefoot 80 rim. Lighter than the others you mentioned so maybe a good option?
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  88. #288
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    SR is not well suited to offset builds, the holes are too close to the rim edge.

    I've had fantastic luck with MOBD's, light, tubeless set up is simple, and offset builds are nice and stable.

    Built a mess of Light Bicycle rims with offset drilling, thy've been bomber too, if light weight is a first level priority....
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  89. #289
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    I've been running LB rims on my Prophet for 6 or 7 thousand miles. They are bomber. I'll be shipping things to you soon enough. Would I need a Lefty adapter for the tapered head set, or do you have those as well?
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  90. #290
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    I am going to have some Lefty Fat Bike Clamps made. I have found a machine shop that can do the work. I do not have prices yet but I wanted to see if anyone else is interested in getting any. Mine will be made for a 145mm head tube with an additional 9mm of headset for a total stack of 154mm. The top clamp will be made to "drop" down to the proper Lefty clamp spacing of 138mm or so.
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet Julio View Post
    I am going to have some Lefty Fat Bike Clamps made. I have found a machine shop that can do the work. I do not have prices yet but I wanted to see if anyone else is interested in getting any. Mine will be made for a 145mm head tube with an additional 9mm of headset for a total stack of 154mm. The top clamp will be made to "drop" down to the proper Lefty clamp spacing of 138mm or so.
    I don't think you need to make your own clamps. This is exactly what Craig's standard clamp will do, and as he says it works up to 165mm of total stack.

    The picture is of my On-One fatty. It has a lower crown adapter to allow the tapered headtube to use the straight steerer. The top of Craig's lefty top clamp sits about 150 mm above the base of the crown adapter and I use about 30 mm of spacers above the clamp.

    Lefty for Fat Bikes-lefty-clamp.jpg

    Tim

  92. #292
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    I wish that it was so easy! But unfortunately, Craig is out of stock. But thanks for the pics. If you can, could you send another pic or two? I have 3 Lefty Max 140's. They all clamp within a fairly narrow zone. I want to maximize the available axle to crown, so I'm thinking of a zero stack lower for the headset and an integrated for the top. That gets my total stack to 154mm. I need the top clamp to drop 16mm or so. If you could send a pic of the other side too that would be helpful.

    Thanks!
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet Julio View Post
    If you could send a pic of the other side too that would be helpful.

    Thanks!
    I hope these help
    Lefty for Fat Bikes-img-0535.jpg
    Lefty for Fat Bikes-img-0534.jpg
    Lefty for Fat Bikes-img-0533.jpg

    Tim

  94. #294
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    Thanks! That is very helpful. How do you like the Lefty as a fat fork?
    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

  95. #295
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    It's the first and only Lefty I've ever tried. IMO it is better than the Bluto on my other bike.
    And nver have issues with a tire not fitting!

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet Julio View Post
    Thanks! That is very helpful. How do you like the Lefty as a fat fork?
    I'v always liked it. It has the PBR damper and is reliable and consistent. I also have a Salsa Bucksaw and have often thought about swapping the forks between the bikes to see how they feel, but haven't got around to it.

    Tim

  97. #297
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    Smile

    Fat Mongoose, second iteration ) modified upped clamp (20mm offset instead of flat), "blue" titanium spring inside (instead of black/steel), adjusted spacers at the top of damper, increased fork rake (60-62mm now)

    results: full 90mm Jake travel (actually up to 95mm), incredible plushness, but with such offset (60+ mm) bike feels more like a chopper so at the next iteration I will return back to 55mm
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lefty for Fat Bikes-img_20200114_135242_1.jpg  


  98. #298
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    Here is my SE Bikes [email protected], outfitted with a Lefty Max 140, PBR conversion, reduced to 110MM travel. Vee Bulldozers, 4.7". I've got two rides on it and it rips. The Lefty is super plush with the fat tires.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lefty for Fat Bikes-fat-lefty-conversion.jpg  

    My name is Chris and I ride a Ripmo now.

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