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  1. #1
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    I made the mistake of weighting my wheels.

    18 lbs wheels w/tires on my 2011 Pugs. I'm not sure I can stand it. I'm 160 lbs and mostly ride snow.

    Anyhow I looked at the Flat top 80s drilled and the Rolling Darryls 80'sdrilled. I figure a little wider would help with floatation. I'm looking for the weight of the rim strip to see if I would still save enough weight to justify $350 for a pair of rims. Also is there any issue with the exposer with the drilled rims?


    any other suggestions that wont break the bank?

    Thanks for your time
    Steve

  2. #2
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    When ever you get into trimming weight on a bike you should first strongly consider adding to your safe cracking skills. If saving weight on your machine is your focus there are ways and people and corporations who will with vested ($) interests help you attempt to achieve your goal since it will help them acheive theirs ($).

    18 Lbs of wheels and you are looking at saving by eliminating rim strip??? I don't even care about weight and my fully assembled front and rear wheels total to just under 10#.
    Half our life is spent trying to find something to do with the time we have rushed through life trying to save

  3. #3
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    Just unweight them then.

    Seriously though, I have put about 175 miles on my Pugs since I got it two weeks ago, and as I was riding today I contemplated the weight of it. I changed the stem and post to Thompson Elites, added a riser bar, and switched to thumbies and 2 rings up front. I may have save 150 grams or so, but I did it so it matched my set up preference. I think the weight is a good thing, because now my race bike feels so much lighter and faster without having to do anything to it. If a light fat bike is your goal, it would be cheaper to build one from parts instead of buying a new one and trying to shave weight.

  4. #4
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    Start with smaller tubes. The QTubes 2.4-2.7 tubes can be had for $18 shipped, and will drop nearly a pound. That'll make a nice difference for cheap.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  5. #5
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    WMODAVIS

    A little clarification for you. I have Large Marges on there now and I was looking at these other rims with holes in em which would save about 250 grams a wheel. I saw on the Surly web sight what appeared to be a rim strip made to protect the tube when using these type of rims. The rim strip looks heavy and if it weights say 150g then it probably isn't worth the time and money to rebiuld the wheels. I will say that wheels are a pet peeve of mine.

    JAGI410

    Are those tubes reliable? I do a lot of riding on my own and out a ways. If they are, it sounds like a good idea.

    Also, will going from a 65mm rim to a 80mm rim help with floatation?

    Thanks for the replies

    S

  6. #6
    runs with scissors
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    Iíve had really good luck running WBT 2.5 tubes for the last 2.5 years, summer and winter in AK. The 1 flat that I had was self-inflicted. From what Iíve been told you can no longer get the WTB tubes but the Q-tube is a good replacement. When running under sized tubes I would recommend over inflating them to 30 ish PSI to assure the tube is stretched out and use lots of baby power! The power helps the reduce friction between the tire and tube.
    I also started with a stock Pugsley wheel set non drilled 65mm rims, as I recall just swapping tubes was worth about a 1lb savings. I got another pound savings when I built up a custom 100mm wheel set. Ride quality was noticeably improved due the rotating weight and improved handling of the 100mm rims. General trying to save static 100 grams here and there has little reward but rotating weight is huge.
    I would not recommend trying to save weight by slicing and dicing a pair is chopper USA rims as I did, the rims are a long term pain in the ass, my 100s will soon be replaced with Surly clown shoes.
    The rim strip is something Iíve see way over thought over the years, just get some light nylon fabric and secure it in place with super light shipping tape, Iíd bet it will come in at 50 grams a wheel and itís cheap, this assumes the spokes are proper length and not protruding will past the nipple.
    Iím 160 lbs and hard pressed to ever ride to anything less 100mm rims due to the improved flotation.

    61į North

  7. #7
    aka bOb
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    I use Bontrager 26x2.8 tubes and have had no problems with them, also 2nd the use of ribbon for rim strips. Super cheap and very light.

  8. #8
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    I'm going to order some tubes for now. There seems to be 3 tubes. Superlight, regular, and DH. I'm assuming not the superlights?

    Rims will probably be in te near future. I have no intention of upgrading any other parts on the bike exept maybe the XT hydros I have laying around.... I do agree that the rotational wieght is were it's at.

    I ran into a little sleet on my ride this morning. Winter is comin.

    Good fun!
    S

  9. #9
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    Are you kidding me? You do realize its a pugsley right? Want light wheels, buy a superfly or something.

  10. #10
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    I threw some standard 210gr 29er tunes on my ML2 and shaved 21 ounces total!
    Surly tubes are 500 +/- gr/each.
    21 ounces makes a difference on the tires - do yourself a favor and swap 'em out.

  11. #11
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    I'd try running the "non-holey" Surly rims tubeless. That's lighter and cheaper than running tubes with cutout rims, plus the tires will feel more compliant. Aren't the stock tubes on a Pugsly about 450g each? That's almost 2 pounds of weight savings by getting rid of them.

    People talk of the difference b/w 27 TPI tires vs 120 TPI tires, well running tubeless 120 TPI tires should be the ultimate in traction.

    I run tubeless with non-tubeless tires on all my other bikes (XC and downhill) and the difference in traction and weight is definitely noticeable. Plus the bike just feels faster, less bouncy. I've had one flat tire in the past 2 years, when I had to use a backup pair of wheels that weren't tubeless.

    I'll be converting my Pugsly to tubeless with the stock Large Marge rims once I can get my hands on some of the new Kevlar Nate tires.

  12. #12
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    you sparked my curiousity...

    In building (dammit! when will the powdercoater be finished?!?!) my pugs, I didn't worry about weight. I selected my components based on what would work for me.

    that said, now I wanted to know what my wheels weighted...

    BFL (steel bead)
    Surly toob
    Surly rim strip
    Surly Rolling Darryl (drilled)
    DT Competitions 32 spokes (263)
    DT alloy nipples (32)
    CK 135 iso hub
    Salsa skewer
    Avid 185 rotor
    (no cassette)

    3.69kg or ~8.1lbs per wheel.

    Posted more as an FYI than anything else.

    Plenty of places to shed weight on these wheels (kelvar, inner tube, rim strip, hub, spokes rotor, skewer), so this isn't even close to "weight weenie" IMHO.

    But shows the difference over the stock wheels for sure.

    g

  13. #13
    How much does it weigh?
    Reputation: Borgschulze's Avatar
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    Drill out your Large Marge rims.

    They will still be incredibly strong as long as you don't drill too big of a hole.

  14. #14
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    What ^he^ said.

    Drilling is free.

    I've done several at this point, and with a bit of careful marking and pre punching to ensure even drilling, it's just time consuming, not tough.

    Yes, lighter tubes.

    Rotational weight is the best weight to remove from any bike, period. Curbside static weight like stems, bars, saddles etc, never gets felt.

    Or, spend up, and get some Speedway Uma's , true tubeless baby, niiiiice!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  15. #15
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    Looks like I'm gona get some new rims. Going with the drilled darryls so I will save some weight and while I'm at it, go a little wider. Now the fun part is that I noticed on another thread that there is a limited number of Orange, Green and White rims available AND my LBS has some on hold! My pugs is a 2011 that I had powdercoated orange (can't stand the white). Anyhow, what do ya think? Orange rims with black rim strip, black rims or green rims with orange rim strip?

    " width="549">

  16. #16
    All fat, all the time.
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    Aren't those rims red, not orange...likely won't be a perfect match on color....

  17. #17
    get down!
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    They are def. red...Orange with green or white for sure! Or just black with orange rim strip
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweetness View Post
    I'd try running the "non-holey" Surly rims tubeless. That's lighter and cheaper than running tubes with cutout rims, plus the tires will feel more compliant. Aren't the stock tubes on a Pugsly about 450g each? That's almost 2 pounds of weight savings by getting rid of them.

    People talk of the difference b/w 27 TPI tires vs 120 TPI tires, well running tubeless 120 TPI tires should be the ultimate in traction.

    I run tubeless with non-tubeless tires on all my other bikes (XC and downhill) and the difference in traction and weight is definitely noticeable. Plus the bike just feels faster, less bouncy. I've had one flat tire in the past 2 years, when I had to use a backup pair of wheels that weren't tubeless.

    I'll be converting my Pugsly to tubeless with the stock Large Marge rims once I can get my hands on some of the new Kevlar Nate tires.
    Can you explain in more detail? Will a Stan's No tubes kit work?

    This sounds like a great idea.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Yes, lighter tubes.
    What are you using for tubes?

  20. #20
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    I might be selling a set of Speedway UMA II 70mm rims soon. They are in great shape and crazy light (for the size). I'm a big guy and going Hundo this season.
    The LPG

  21. #21
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wish I Were Riding View Post
    What are you using for tubes?
    There's two Surly tube offerings, a 1.3(?) mm wall thickness offering, and a 1 mm. I want to say it saves 60 some odd grams?

    Many here have used a standard MTB tube, or 2.75" DH tube, both of which are lighter. They do stretch to fit, yes. I found personally, that the tires end up with a soft spot in them, where the tube didn't expand as fully, and it makes funky squishy noises on firmer surfaces. Many others didn't have this happen though, so YMMV....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    There's two Surly tube offerings, a 1.3(?) mm wall thickness offering, and a 1 mm. I want to say it saves 60 some odd grams?
    I just picked up a couple of the 1.0 mm tubes and weighed one of them last night to compare it to a 1.3 mm tube - I got a 70g difference.
    Last edited by SteveRice; 11-10-2011 at 02:31 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Borgschulze View Post
    Drill out your Large Marge rims.

    They will still be incredibly strong as long as you don't drill too big of a hole.

    That's what I did with this LM rim.


    2011_0212holeymarge0004 by singlespeedstu, on Flickr

  24. #24
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    It looks great, but how much weight did you actually save? Somebody on flicker already asked the question- how do you fill the voids w/o adding more weight than you removed? Our heavy and wet snow here could easily fill up those voids and add way more than the weight removed. What if you used a good fabric or mylar (monofilm) tape over the holes on the outside?

  25. #25
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    I bought a pair of the Surly 1.0 tubes. For kicks one of the mechanics at our shop thought to weigh the tubes before I put them on my bike.... AND one of them weighed more than the 1,3 I was using.... and the other was 10 grams less.... So I called QBP to see what the allowable weight fluctuation was... and they told me there had been an error in packaging with one of the batches and that some 1.3 got put in 1.0 boxes.... so before you assume your 1.0 tubes are lighter - check them. I think I am going to try using a 2.4 or 2.8 tube. Thanks for the tip.

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