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  1. #1
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    Groupset options?

    My Felt DD30 will be with me within the next 5 days and i want to changed it to a 1x set up.
    I'm considering splashing out on some Shimano M9000 XTR bits to give the cheap bike a little bling?

    What are your thoughts or what 1x set up would you recommend that will go straight on the bike.

    I have a budget of about 1000 and this will be a second bike to my 2015 Scott Scale 710 that i have also had a play with.

    This will be my first fat bike so go easy on me i'm still learning.

  2. #2
    Thingamejigger
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    Ride it first, then see if a 1x10 is practical for you.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Ride it first, then see if a 1x10 is practical for you.
    I have a 1x10 set up on my Scott Scale and it's fine. Is it much difference on a fat bike?

  4. #4
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    Love 1x10 - especially with a clutched RD. Silence is golden.

  5. #5
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    Groupset options?

    Quote Originally Posted by rebnah View Post
    I have a 1x10 set up on my Scott Scale and it's fine. Is it much difference on a fat bike?
    I have a 1x10 on my hard tail and my fat bike. The difference is that the normal mtb is 34x11-40. The fatty is 32x11-42.
    I kept lower gears on the fat bike because the tires take more energy going up.
    I ride all on dirt, fwiw.

  6. #6
    try anything on a bike
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    if you go 1x10, be sure to get a Narrow Wide chain ring, then you wont need a clutched RD and wont drop chains. RaceFace ones are only about $30-40. Otherwise, just keep the rear derailleur until its worn or holding you back somehow.

    Oh, and go tubeless, spend the money Gorilla Tape and Stans instead of a new RD. You may want to go a little smaller on the chainring also with a fat bike because the wheels are heavier and take a little more to get going. But its cheap to try out a few different rings too, like a 32 and 30, or even 28, depending on your crank, and chainstay spacing and where you live.

  7. #7
    since 4/10/2009
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    Yeah, I also recommend riding it first.

    I spent a lot of money last year on a new fatbike build. You know the cheapest parts on the whole bike?
    Cassette, chain, and rear derailleur.

    IMO, the best shifting performance is gained with a quality shifter. I spent a bit more here and got a XX 10spd. I wanted a clutch for the rear, so got the least expensive SRAM with a clutch. X9. Cassette and chain are even lower end than X9. Since I was starting from scratch on everything, I went with a Race Face Turbine CINCH crankset with a direct mount 28t chainring. I wanted to keep low end gearing, hence the smaller chainring.

    I really like the direct mount option for a 1x crankset. Gives you the ability to run smaller chainrings to ensure that you get the gearing you want for the way you ride.

    the fancy new XTR and the expensive SRAM 1x11 stuff is just too rich for me to justify. Think about it - of all the parts on your bike, you're more likely to rip off a rear derailleur in a crash, and replace chains and cassettes on a regular basis. I don't want to buy the most expensive parts available for that stuff, AND I get a nice discount working in a shop. Maybe when I'm sponsored and don't have to buy replacements - oh wait, I ride at a middling speed, that'll never happen. So yeah, I'm gonna use affordable stuff for the parts that break/wear out frequently.

  8. #8
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    It appears that I have an addiction, so I now have two fatbbikes one running 2 x 10 and the other 1 x 11. Both have completely different feel and because they are different bikes with very different weights it is a tough comparison. At 37 pounds I really like the 2 x drivetrain

    I'd like to believe that I cN get to a 1 x 10 as I agree the 1 x 11 is too rich, I'm not sure I can achieve that level of fitness.

    On the lighter bike a 2 x would be overkill

    So I agree, ride the bike and see how it feels.

    A 42t is a real nice choice with a 28 front, gives you loads of range

  9. #9
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    I have the new XTR on my fatboy. I love it and wouldn't recommend anything else if you have the coin

  10. #10
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Um, the XTR is nice, but your bike has an XT rear derailleur, switching that would be a waste of money better spent in other areas, like your cassette, or brakes, and most of all, your wheels. Your shifters and derailleurs are perfectly functional and XTR won't save any significant weight.

    If you want to make it a better ride and save weight, look at the saddle, seatpost, handlebar, cassette, cranks, and wheels. Most of the controls on your bike are pretty solid, changing them out before they fail would be expensive and not really the best area to spend money for significant improvements IMO.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for all your replys people. I love my Scott Scale and it stands me in about 4200 with all the mods but I get a feeling I will ride the fattie more.
    I thought I would start the same as my Scott with Thomson carbon bars, Thomson stem and Thomson seat post. XTR trail brake set. Then go from there?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebnah View Post
    Thanks for all your replys people. I love my Scott Scale and it stands me in about 4200 with all the mods but I get a feeling I will ride the fattie more.
    I thought I would start the same as my Scott with Thomson carbon bars, Thomson stem and Thomson seat post. XTR trail brake set. Then go from there?
    I went with the XTR race brakes with a 180 Ashima front rotor, since I figured I wouldn't be DHing on the fatbike. Rigid (even hardtail) bike impacts are going to limit you from going fast enough where the extra cooling capacity of the XTR trail would be needed IMO, if your going XTR, might as well go for the light ones IMO.

    Those are good initial upgrades, but after that, I'd start saving up for a carbon wheelset (around $1000 with chinese rims and good quality hubs like Hope). That would be the most weight savings and biggest difference in ride.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  13. #13
    aka bOb
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    I went from xt to xtr race brakes and couldn't stand them compared to the xt. Went to the xtr trail and life is sweet again. This was on a short travel xc bike.

  14. #14
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    I think I will just complete the rest of the XT groupset but just run it 1x10 with a Race Face narrow wide 32T chain ring the same as my Scale.
    I will have more cash left then for some other bits.

  15. #15
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    I use my fatbike almost exclusively as a snow bike. I tried to go 1x10 with a 42T cog but could not get it to shift reliably, so went back to 2x. No way I wanted to give up the low gearing. I use it way more than I ever thought I would riding in the snow. If it's mainly a dirt bike then do whatever.

  16. #16
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    The sad thing is where I'm based in the UK it's rare to get snow.
    Looking at all your images in the snow it makes me a bit jealous.
    I've never seen a fat bike where I am so I think a few eyebrows may be raised lol.

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