Grip Studs in Bud and Lou- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 156 of 156
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jaredbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    258

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    I have been on the fence about studs in my bike tires for a long time. They are an expensive experiment that I was not sure I needed or even wanted until I crashed hard the other night. The 45nrth Dillinger is another option but is expensive, sold out and not moonlander wide. The Dillinger has 240 studs per tire.

    The grip studs are an obscene $1 per stud. I only purchased 100 studs and wondered if I was a complete fool. The studs weighed 65 grams per 100 count and have a carbide core. If they stay in the tire should wear before they do.

    I put 60 studs in the front tire and 40 studs in the rear. They seem to need a lot of tread depth and am not sure I would feel comfortable putting them in my somewhat worn husker du's or old endomorphs. New Bud and Lou's had plenty of rubber.

    The studs go in very quickly and are not frustrating to deal with at all with the exception of being afraid I would drop and lose the expensive little guys.

    I test rode them last night at 17F, front tire at 7lbs, rear tire at 8lbs of air pressure. I am about 250lbs. I rode flat smooth ice, overflow like uneven ice, dirt, gravel, asphalt, concrete, rock garden, grass and snow. They worked great and did much more to prevent slipping than I expected. I will not be ice racing on them but will also not hesitate to ride any ice. I found myself eagerly looking for ice to ride. I can hear them tapping on the bare pavement. None came out or loosened during my first test of varied surfaces.

    Bud and Lou just became a little more studly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-2.jpg  

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-3.jpg  

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-5.jpg  

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-6.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  
    laotzucycles.blogspot.com

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phat-mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    13
    Nicely done, do you install them buy hand or use a drill with the tool?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jaredbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by phat-mike View Post
    Nicely done, do you install them buy hand or use a drill with the tool?
    I used the "4000" tool. It is a hand screw driver with the tip in the pic to fit the studs. I think a power tool would be more work and give less control. They go in with just a few twists. I bet I could put in a new set of 100 in a half hour to an hour and pull them all out in 10 minutes. Super easy by hand.
    laotzucycles.blogspot.com

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yxan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    396
    Love grip studs and those are perfect tires to add some studs too

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    249
    If the studs were 1/2 that price I'd grab 400 in an instant.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yxan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by gecho View Post
    If the studs were 1/2 that price I'd grab 400 in an instant.
    we did a group buy with them last year here on the forum, You might want to try and see the interest levels on doing another. They are really cool to work with.

  7. #7
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,960
    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    we did a group buy with them last year here on the forum, You might want to try and see the interest levels on doing another. They are really cool to work with.
    I'm in this year. If someone wants to get that going - indeed, start a new thread. I felt like a tool because I contacted them about the possibility of such an arrangement and then never got involved in the buy because it didn't snow...
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (officialy in 2016, functionally in 2020).

  8. #8
    Vagician
    Reputation: EPcycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    we did a group buy with them last year here on the forum, You might want to try and see the interest levels on doing another. They are really cool to work with.
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    I'm in this year. If someone wants to get that going - indeed, start a new thread. I felt like a tool because I contacted them about the possibility of such an arrangement and then never got involved in the buy because it didn't snow...
    How much did the price come down?

    Even at 50% off, the husker Du's at 240 studs per tire would be $120 per tire? I think I'd just opt for the Dillinger....

    I can do 240 4-40 x 1/4" set screws for $25 per tire at 40 grams. May not be asphalt friendly, but.....$?

  9. #9
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,960
    Quote Originally Posted by EPcycles View Post
    How much did the price come down?

    Even at 50% off, the husker Du's at 240 studs per tire would be $120 per tire? I think I'd just opt for the Dillinger....

    I can do 240 4-40 x 1/4" set screws for $25 per tire at 40 grams. May not be asphalt friendly, but.....$?
    25% off.

    Totally understand if you don't already have tires you're looking at to stud.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (officialy in 2016, functionally in 2020).

  10. #10
    Vagician
    Reputation: EPcycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    25% off.

    Totally understand if you don't already have tires you're looking at to stud.
    Cripes, I wish they weren't so expensive. This is supposed to be an economy option.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lancelot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    996
    Depending on conditions where you ride you'll want to install a lot more studs. I think Yxan and myself are running around 100-150 per tire and I still want more at times.
    The LPG

  12. #12
    oh crap...
    Reputation: farmerfrederico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547
    I'm planning on putting these in my Bud and Lou as well...ordered 200 off the group buy. Anyone have any thoughts or concerns about running them tubeless with these? They don't get anywhere close to going through, do they? Thought I'd just try running them about once a year when conditions are perfect around here - which could only be a couple weeks each winter.

    I have Nokian Extreme 294's for my 29er which are perfect for glare ice, but I'd like to explore some creeks and cross some small lakes with my Moonlander!

    Thanks!
    Grow some food for yourself.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lancelot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    996
    You should be fine with a Bud and Lou. Last season I used them on a BFL and a Nate. The Nate was simple and never had any penetrate through the casing. The BFL was another story. The knobs are so shallow that I must have screwed about 30 through the casing. They were constantly making holes in my tubes. I tried to back them out but they seemed to keep screwing back in somehow. Eventually I lined the tire with Gorilla tape just to prevent flats. If Grip Studding a shallow knob tire be really careful. If studding a Nate, Bud and Lou you shouldn't need to worry so much.
    The LPG

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jaredbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    258
    Longer term review of my grip stud experiment. 60 front 40 rear continues to work great. I am not bombing any luge runs but also don't hesitate to hit ice while going fast . I think the grip studs may sit up a bit more than the 45nrth ones allowing fewer to do a competent job. Not to say it is as good as the 240 in a Dillinger of course but I have no desire to add more. The only limitation I have found was when I had to drop my pressure to 5lb front 7lb rear on some choppy glare ice. As someone else also noted the studs work much better with a little higher air pressure.
    laotzucycles.blogspot.com

  15. #15
    oh crap...
    Reputation: farmerfrederico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547
    Good to hear, Jardbe. I've got 200 to put in my Bud and Lou when I get back home tomorrow. We have conditions on most of the trail I've been riding that I think will warrant the studs and put a smile on my face. Creeks, lakes, and ponds will be frozen again too, so I should be able to do some new exploration I've been thinking about. Will report back here when I get a ride in - will probably do 100/100 or 120/80 front/rear depending on how the pattern lays out.
    Grow some food for yourself.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    47
    Do Husker Du's have enough tread depth to run these without penetrating the casing?

  17. #17
    oh crap...
    Reputation: farmerfrederico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547

    Success!

    I'll put some pictures up soon..but this is what I ended up doing: I put 3 studs in each of my Lake boots and then evenly completed a symmetrical pattern with the rest of my 194 studs between Bud and Lou. I put them in by hand with 12psi in tires set up tubeless on Clownshoes. They went in easily, and it took me about three sessions to finish it after the baby went to sleep.

    Went out today on the Des Moines river, up creeks that run into it, and on the lake at Lacey-Keosauqua State Park. I've got lots of experience on Nokian Extreme 294's on my 29er - and even with less studs, I think these stick better. They make exploring frozen water ways so much fun - opening up so much more to explore. Sand, ice, tons of rocks - this makes for a very technical ride. Can't wait until tomorrow!
    Grow some food for yourself.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    249
    I put grip studs in a 27 tpi Nate and a Bud. I found the Bud to be much more challenging due to the softer rubber. I have my doubts whether the studs could be removed and installed again on the Bud.

    Nice traction on the icy packed snow today. When I tested it on a rink earlier in the week I found there are definitely limits to the front end traction in tight cornering.

    I put 2 studs in each of my Lake boots which really helped when putting a foot down on ice. They got in the way of my shoe covers so I took them out. I might punch a few holes in the shoe covers and reinstall the studs.


  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    249
    I'm participating in an ice race tomorrow so I did some more traction testing on a rink. Excellent front end traction at 4 psi. At 3 psi the tire starts to accordion under braking on firmer surfaces so I probably won't go much lower than 4.

    I test rode the track today which isn't anywhere near as slick as a rink. I had enough grip from the studded Nate in the rear to easily get the front tire off the ground. It should be a fun afternoon, not fast, but fun.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    249
    I got my Lou ready for the winter, deciding to start with 76 studs. Last year I had 148 in a Nate which might have been overkill since I could do wheelies on an icy path.

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-bimg_0920.jpg

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    88
    I found a thread for a Grip Studs group buy from last year but I can't find one for this year. Anyone has seen one?

    Also, for the ones that studded their Buds and Lous last year, what happened when you took them off? Did the knobs held OK with those holes in them or did they deteriorate? One more question, were you able to use the same holes this year to re-stud the tire? If so, are the studs still gripping well to the tire?

    Thanks!

  22. #22
    dvn
    dvn is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dvn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    711
    Quote Originally Posted by pssaenz View Post
    I found a thread for a Grip Studs group buy from last year but I can't find one for this year. Anyone has seen one?

    Also, for the ones that studded their Buds and Lous last year, what happened when you took them off? Did the knobs held OK with those holes in them or did they deteriorate? One more question, were you able to use the same holes this year to re-stud the tire? If so, are the studs still gripping well to the tire?

    Thanks!
    I recently studded my Bud and Lou. I have no intention of removing the studs. These will be my winter tires and I'll throw the Floaters back on for the rest of the year. I think it would be a major PITA to try and remove and re-install the studs.
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_20131128_113446_326.jpg
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jaredbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    258

    Re: Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    Quote Originally Posted by pssaenz View Post

    Also, for the ones that studded their Buds and Lous last year, what happened when you took them off? Did the knobs held OK with those holes in them or did they deteriorate? One more question, were you able to use the same holes this year to re-stud the tire? If so, are the studs still gripping well to the tire?

    Thanks!
    Pssaenz the studs did no damage to the tire when I took them out last summer. If you look at my original pics you should be able to see that I put them in a slot in the stud so I didn't even make a totally new hole. They came out super fast and went back in great. I don't think I lost any studs last year. These studs stick up much higher and feel more sharp and aggressive than the pre studded tires I have felt. They work great and I have no want for more than my 60 front 40 rear setup.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    laotzucycles.blogspot.com

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    88
    dvn and Jaredbe, thank you for your responses.

    60 & 40 per tire seem very low when compared with the 402 studs in my Schwalbe Ice Spikers 29ers, and the 332 that I had in my Nokian Freddie Revenz. I guess the much bigger contact patch on the Bud & Lou helps with traction even in the ice.

    I might start with 60 & 40 and another 100 later, if I feel I need to. These things are very expensive!

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    233
    So how much did everyone save by buying in bulk in the group buy? I want some studs.

  26. #26
    oh crap...
    Reputation: farmerfrederico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547
    No problems here putting them in - 100 per tire. I took them out after winter and can't even tell which lugs I put them in. I think I'll put them in again this week - trails on the front range are probably going to go back and forth between snow cover and ice. I don't think I'll have any problems putting them back in.

    100 per tire lets you ride over irregular shaped icy features - like velcro! I bought them last year in the group buy. Glad I got them and worth every penny.

  27. #27
    oh crap...
    Reputation: farmerfrederico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by Raul34 View Post
    So how much did everyone save by buying in bulk in the group buy? I want some studs.
    Yo, cuz! I think we payed 75-78 cents per stud after shipping when they were $1/stud before shipping.

    Get the #4000 install tool - that way you can install by hand and take out with with a drill.
    Grow some food for yourself.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: danaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    415
    Does anyone have a few hundred Grip Studs they would like to sell ? Or, might there be enough folks for a group buy ?

  29. #29
    move on up...
    Reputation: Forged1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    395

    Group buy 2014

    I would order 200 if we could get enough people for another group purchase.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    155
    +1 for the group buy. what is the min number of 'buyers' needed?

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yxan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by easterntide View Post
    +1 for the group buy. what is the min number of 'buyers' needed?
    They need a minimum of 1000 studs ordered to get the discount, that is how it worked the last time we did it here.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    159
    I am not sitting by my bike right now but can someone tell me what the tread depth of a bud is? I came across another idea that may be cost effective but depends on the tread depth.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: TRAIL CRANKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    331
    I found 7mm tread depth by searching , i don't own any .
    13 On One Fatty
    08 YETI 575 BLK. C.King Hubs/Hadley
    96 Specialized Stump Jumper FS Tweaked

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    159
    shoot....now I'm "that guy" who doesn't know how to use google....

    I'll link the product here in case someone has used it and wants to provide some feedback.

    Maxigrip Mountain Bike Tire Studs - Ice Studs - Snow Studs | Maxigripstore

    looks like the studs may be just a but long? Maybe it's possible to not screw in as far?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    407
    Climbing Builds Character

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: danaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    They need a minimum of 1000 studs ordered to get the discount, that is how it worked the last time we did it here.
    OK, I'm going to post a new thread for a group buy since this one is kind of buried under a somewhat unrelated thread name. I'm in for 300 of the product cat. #1000 Grip Studs.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    42
    I'm going with the Grip Studs group buy thread.

    I plan on riding over a long mostly-dry rock area (similar to a breakwater) at fairly low speed.

    Do you guys think 100 studs (60 front + 40 rear) on Bud & Lou would be enough so I don't die trying? If not, what would be the recommended number?
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: danaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    I'm going with the Grip Studs group buy thread.

    I plan on riding over a long mostly-dry rock area (similar to a breakwater) at fairly low speed.

    Do you guys think 100 studs (60 front + 40 rear) on Bud & Lou would be enough so I don't die trying? If not, what would be the recommended number?
    If your primarily riding dry conditions and hard surfaces like rock I would not recommend studs at all, they do not increase grip on non penetrable surfaces, scary !
    Last edited by danaco; 01-18-2014 at 07:42 PM.

  39. #39
    dvn
    dvn is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dvn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    711
    Agree with above! Studs on dry smooth rock will provide terrible traction.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    42
    Thanks for the replies.

    I was thinking that the studs would "add" to grip and wouldn't take away from it. So, when riding bud/lou with a lot of rubber at low pressure, the hope was that the stud would be "extra insurance" against a slip on the uneven rocks. It seems that isn't the case and they will have to be saved for wet conditions only. Bummer.
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surlybugger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    194
    I currently have 693 of these in my Bud & Lous. They work great! And they are easy on the wallet. Next winter though, I'll be using 2 Lous. The Lou has more usable knobbies for such a conversion.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by tridentcycleworks View Post
    I currently have 693 of these in my Bud & Lous. They work great! And they are easy on the wallet. Next winter though, I'll be using 2 Lous. The Lou has more usable knobbies for such a conversion.
    Hi Trident, that is a lot of studs! Are you using 1/2" deep screws or the 3/8" version? If you used a 1/2" deep screw, were there any issue where it poked through? Also, are you running tubeless with Stans?

    Thanks
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surlybugger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    Hi Trident, that is a lot of studs! Are you using 1/2" deep screws or the 3/8" version? If you used a 1/2" deep screw, were there any issue where it poked through? Also, are you running tubeless with Stans?

    Thanks
    3/8", but they still poke through the carcass. Not a problem, because I am running ghetto tubless / slpit tube, with lots of Stan's. Nearly 700 holes, and no air-loss.

  44. #44
    Location: SouthPole of MN
    Reputation: duggus's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,711
    Quote Originally Posted by tridentcycleworks View Post
    I currently have 693 of these in my Bud & Lous.
    Is that many studs actually working good/ok on the ice? I've heard if you get too many you defeat the purpose of studs, since they need to dig in. Kind of like the people who lay on the bed of nails... there's so many that none of them actually puncture the skin. Same principle.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surlybugger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    194
    I figured contact area. The more I put in, the more the tires gripped. I related it to sanding a surface, for a good mechanical bond. Fine paper makes more scratches in an area than a rougher grit. Just was out now for a night ride (it was awesome), 2" of packy, on an ice base. One off-caber bobble, but all was great. In time, I will save up for Grip-studs fer sure. I mean carbide...So cool! But for now, these are working.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by tridentcycleworks View Post
    3/8", but they still poke through the carcass. Not a problem, because I am running ghetto tubless / slpit tube, with lots of Stan's. Nearly 700 holes, and no air-loss.
    Thanks for giving us the info. One last thing if you don't mind... How did you install so many screws without going crazy? Did you use an electric screwdriver or hand operated? How did you get the screw to go in straight?
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: danaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    Thanks for the replies.

    I was thinking that the studs would "add" to grip and wouldn't take away from it. So, when riding bud/lou with a lot of rubber at low pressure, the hope was that the stud would be "extra insurance" against a slip on the uneven rocks. It seems that isn't the case and they will have to be saved for wet conditions only. Bummer.
    No no no no ! Wet rock surfaces are even scarier than dry for studs, now your just lubricating them ! I think your yank'in our chain here.....touché you got the last laugh, I surrender !

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    808
    Well finally it snowed again after getting my fatty two weeks ago the temp went up and everything melted. Did a 13 mile ride yesterday and wow was a I tired. What a work out but I had a lot of traction issues and may do the stud thing as well. I lost the front tire so many times I actually walked some down hills as I didn't trust my bike. Been off a bike for 3 months and I felt that ride for sure, was -10 forgot my riding coat, had to wear my normal coat which sucks as I sweated right through it and it was just soaked.
    All in all it was just awesome out there and seen three other fatty riders.
    Giant XTC 2 29er
    KHS Flagstaff 29er FS
    Neon Bow Trials Bike
    Norco Fluid 9.2 29er FS
    Norco BIGFOOT FATTY

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surlybugger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    Thanks for giving us the info. One last thing if you don't mind... How did you install so many screws without going crazy? Did you use an electric screwdriver or hand operated? How did you get the screw to go in straight?
    By hand, with a properly fitted screwdriver. They screw in easily, but the process takes a while, and gives a good fore-arm workout. I had some bad flu over the Holidays, and while feeling not bad during the day, I put them in. not all at once, but about 3-hours spread over a few days.

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    42
    If bud has a 7mm tread depth, a 1/4" screw should be OK. 3/8" screws will puncture the casing per above information.

    Thread-Cutting Screws | MSCDirect.com

    This is a thread-cutting screw at $6.67 per 100. There are other self-tapping screws that cost more.

    I've never ordered from this place. These are short screws that don't have sharp points, so that hopefully they won't puncture the casing.

    Any comments or suggestions?
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surlybugger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    3/8" screws will puncture the casing per above information.
    Not a problem with Ghetto tubeless & Stans! The tips going into the casing, give extra bite, so it's not just the knob they are going into.

    I've never lost studs, but I try not to leave nothing to chance with my rig builds.

  52. #52

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    14
    I have emailed with them, and they response it very soon.

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    84
    Hi all, I came upon a selection of 1/4" (6.35mm) long screws that might work as studs in my Bud & Lou. Tread depth being 7mm, and im going tubed.

    I'm leaning towards these #8 x 1/4 hex heads:

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-61343_2.jpg


    Here is the entire selection of 8 different 1/4" long sheet metal screws.
    Buy Sheet Metal Screws At Fasteners plus | Self Tapping Screws

    Which would work best in your opinion? I think screws would work for me because there isn't that long of winter left and I'd like to take them out in the spring without taking off the tires etc...
    Last edited by Kos F; 02-14-2014 at 12:47 PM.

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    84
    Upon studying the dimension of the Grip Studs 1000... Which have major thread diameter of 6mm, quite big! And a shaft diameter of 2.7mm (under the threads)

    #8 screws are 4.2mm and 2.8mm so hopefully they work!

    8 x 1/4 Zinc-Plated Hex Sheet Metal Screw - Pkg 36

    I want to put some sort of glue on the threads before I screw them into the tire so they dont come out. Maybe rubber-like glue... silicone... any ideas?

  56. #56
    rth009
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    892
    Its getting closer to that time of year again, if anybody is interested in organizing a grip studs group buy, Im in for enough to stud a Bud and Nate

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ghood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    492
    Bump....anyone? Anyone? I'm in.

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    48
    The last couple of posts here from Retep are interesting and are something I might try.

    anyone running Slipnot tire chains on their fat bike? - Page 2



    if you search stainless grub screws cusp on ebay they are under $10 per 100 if you are willing to wait a bit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grubscrew.jpg  

    Last edited by Ohfugit; 08-30-2014 at 07:17 AM.

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by rth009 View Post
    Its getting closer to that time of year again, if anybody is interested in organizing a grip studs group buy, Im in for enough to stud a Bud and Nate
    Hi, I just found this thread about a group buy of #1000 tire studs I'm in for 200 pcs, are you still interested?

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ADKMTNBIKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    728
    Quote Originally Posted by Kos F View Post
    Upon studying the dimension of the Grip Studs 1000... Which have major thread diameter of 6mm, quite big! And a shaft diameter of 2.7mm (under the threads)

    #8 screws are 4.2mm and 2.8mm so hopefully they work!

    8 x 1/4 Zinc-Plated Hex Sheet Metal Screw - Pkg 36

    I want to put some sort of glue on the threads before I screw them into the tire so they dont come out. Maybe rubber-like glue... silicone... any ideas?
    did this work?

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    48
    Putting this here for future searches.
    These are m3x8 grub screws in a new Bud, they protrude about 1/16'
    I switched to m3x10 in the Lou which I like better.

    You can use a jewlers screwdriver to start a hole and to screw the grub screw in. (from the outside)

    I've been on a few rides with them so far and they seem to be holding.
    When testing on sheet ice you could break traction with the m3x8 without too much effort. The m3x10 are better.
    Time will tell long term results.
    ------------------------
    if you search stainless m3 grub screws cusp on ebay they are under $10 per 100 if you are willing to wait a bit.

    The last couple of posts here from Retep are interesting and are what got me started on this.

    anyone running Slipnot tire chains on their fat bike? - Page 2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_20141126_175931_145a.jpg  


  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by Ohfugit View Post
    if you search stainless m3 grub screws cusp on ebay they are under $10 per 100 if you are willing to wait a bit.
    Stainless is a soft metal, if you get plain steel or an alloy (black oxide) socket set screw it will last longer if you ever do pavement. They come in cone point, as well as half dog or full dog. Check fastenal or global industries or many others.

    Good to know the length you mentioned though!

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by k.b. View Post
    Stainless is a soft metal, if you get plain steel or an alloy (black oxide) socket set screw it will last longer if you ever do pavement. They come in cone point, as well as half dog or full dog. Check fastenal or global industries or many others.
    Good to know the length you mentioned though!
    I'm not a high milage pavement rider so it has not been an issue as they still look good.
    But imo the more experienced input on this sort of thing the better.

  64. #64
    is buachail foighneach me
    Reputation: sean salach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,589
    Just went for my first ride on a Bud with 60 Grip Studs front, Dillinger 4(1/2 season of use) out back. I rode hardpacked trails, glare ice(plowed lake), powder over glare ice and chunky, broken then refrozen ice. I had no slippage up front and honestly didn't notice any disparity in grip on ice between the two. Will compare them on the back within a week. I studded my front Bud like the op, offset. I studded a second one for eventual rear use in pairs, every other lug, 60 total. Ordered 150, the remaining 30 went into a couple of pairs of shoes.

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Just went for my first ride on a Bud with 60 Grip Studs front, Dillinger 4(1/2 season of use) out back. I rode hardpacked trails, glare ice(plowed lake), powder over glare ice and chunky, broken then refrozen ice. I had no slippage up front and honestly didn't notice any disparity in grip on ice between the two. Will compare them on the back within a week. I studded my front Bud like the op, offset. I studded a second one for eventual rear use in pairs, every other lug, 60 total. Ordered 150, the remaining 30 went into a couple of pairs of shoes.
    I Bought 160 grip studs for the Bud and Lou, ended up putting 60 in each tire and 20 on for each boot (Lake 303). We have gotten over 5' of snow in Massachusetts this year so haven't had the need for them yet. But once spring comes those packed trails will be icy for some time.

    I used the drill and these tires will be strictly for winter use. Will put 5" tires on her that are fast rolling for dirt in the summer, not sure which ones yet.

    -Nolan

  66. #66
    is buachail foighneach me
    Reputation: sean salach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,589
    For occasional ice, I can't see needing more than 60 per tire. The weight increase is unnoticeable, the grip is hugely noticeable.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    192
    With standard Buds (no studs)... is higher or lower pressure better for ice?

    (edit: this is in questioning my choice to ride the Triple D race this weekend. Below is a recent photo they put up of trail conditions.)
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-10478175_10206662673700370_7167158503945516934_n.jpg

  68. #68
    rth009
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    892
    Nothing but studs are going to keep your face off that ice if you are racing on it

  69. #69
    Workin for the weekend!
    Reputation: -Todd-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,339
    Softer is better, always.
    Todd :thumbsup:

  70. #70
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    34,393
    What they said, and on a completely flat surface, the only way to not fall on your face without studs is super slow tip-toeing riding, but it takes such a little angle/camber to cause you to start sliding that it's usually not practical at all, way too dangerous to be out there without studs and don't even think about racing...
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    50
    So...anyone want to do a group buy on grip studs this year?
    I just got a used moonlander with bud n lous...went out today and bailed 5 times on the ice. Luckily I didnt get too hurt....but it was alot of fun...lol.
    I definitely could use 200 of these but man...they are pricey!
    So hows this work? Whos in?

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    445
    I'd be interested in participating. I just wrecked hard yesterday on my way to work. I'd say for 95% of the time I don't need studs but when you need them you need them. With all the rain we just got, conditions are going to be slick.

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by kllrbee View Post
    So...anyone want to do a group buy on grip studs this year?
    I just got a used moonlander with bud n lous...went out today and bailed 5 times on the ice. Luckily I didnt get too hurt....but it was alot of fun...lol.
    I definitely could use 200 of these but man...they are pricey!
    So hows this work? Whos in?
    So HOW does this work?

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    790
    thread carbide tire studs JX4*4 H12 on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

    11 cents each.

    I don't know if these are a good fit for any bicycle application, so someone would have to decide that.

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    50
    Thnx guys but I already got some off Ebay. Unfortunately, I need these quickly cuz I have a few races coming up.

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    37
    As I continue my rehab from a Thanksgiving morning ride wrist break, I too ordered 200 grip studs from gripstud.com. planning to put most into Lou/Lou on my 2015 blackborow (some for shoes). I see lots of folks think about qty. 60 is fine. Can somebody please explain, show optimum placement for gripstuds in a Lou front and back. thanks much, btw, I plan to get 4.8 knards or Bud/knard come spring. Thanks!

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    790
    My Ice Spiker Pro 29 tires have 361 studs each.

    I know they are expensive, which is why I have not done it, but 60 seems like way too few.

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kaleidopete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    324
    Here is my Lou tire with 100 Griptite studs. I went to the larger size 3000B and they worked great.




    Northern NJ

  79. #79
    is buachail foighneach me
    Reputation: sean salach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,589
    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    My Ice Spiker Pro 29 tires have 361 studs each.

    I know they are expensive, which is why I have not done it, but 60 seems like way too few.
    60 Gripstuds is not Ice Spiker level traction. Not even close. Ice Spikers grip better than any other stock option I'm aware of. Gripstuds, even only 60 of them, do grip very well. They stick out further from the tire than the studs in my Ice Spikers.

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    37
    Thanks all for replys, Sean, using my recently purchased qty 200 grip studs, do you like basically installing them in the same spots/order as shown by Keleidopete? that seems to be optimum to me for a Lou/Lou. thanks much!

  81. #81
    is buachail foighneach me
    Reputation: sean salach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,589
    Quote Originally Posted by fatbikenewbie View Post
    Thanks all for replys, Sean, using my recently purchased qty 200 grip studs, do you like basically installing them in the same spots/order as shown by Keleidopete? that seems to be optimum to me for a Lou/Lou. thanks much!
    If you're asking me, mine are in Buds, not Lous. That said, they're in a fairly similar position on the tire. I did pairs on the rear Bud, like he shows, and staggered them on the front.

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    445
    I just finished installing 150 grip studs in my bud/Lou tires. I don't think these tires are the best for studding because the knobs are so soft and flexible. I blew out a couple of knobs on the back tire.

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,153
    Surprisingly, if you get the studs in right though they won't come out. I thought I would have lost a few by now, but after two winters of use both the Bud and Lou have all their studs.
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
    '17 Cutthroat
    '15 Fatboy Expert

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ADKMTNBIKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    728
    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    So HOW does this work?
    anyone buying?

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,384
    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    anyone buying?
    I'm getting really close - just got to figure out how many I really want. Two Buds and a Lou to stud. Sinking normal studs in the wife's Snowshoe XL this afternoon. The last few storms through dumped piles of high moisture content snow - when it sets up, its gonna be slick as squid snot.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  86. #86
    rth009
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    892
    Quote Originally Posted by ak-rider View Post
    I just finished installing 150 grip studs in my bud/Lou tires. I don't think these tires are the best for studding because the knobs are so soft and flexible. I blew out a couple of knobs on the back tire.
    I did not have this problem at all in 250 studs in Bud in Lou, just make sure you put the studs in the middle of the knob.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    445
    I bought the bit for use with a cordless drill and that worked okay. My biggest issue was the bit didn't hold the grip stud super tight or securely. The grip stud would sometimes wobble and if it got off center to would go in on an angle and blow out the knob. That happened to me two or three times on by rear tire. I ended up using the driver out of my 1/4 socket set to install a number of them manually. I think you get better control with the manual set up. But with the attachment on the driver I had some play at the bit.

    I think I'm going to order some more studs for my wife's bike and get the manual tool as well. From what I could tell in the photos, the bit is the same for cordless drill or manual driver. Their manual driver handle looks like it will be more solid and perhaps my existing bit was a little bit defective? So far I've not lost any studs but I've not been able to ride a lot due to snow conditions being too deep. They worked quite well on ice with around 75 in each tire.

  88. #88
    rth009
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    892
    I used the manual driver. I can see where you would not have as much control if you use a drill.

  89. #89
    sluice box
    Reputation: Co-opski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    989
    Quote Originally Posted by ak-rider View Post
    I bought the bit for use with a cordless drill and that worked okay. My biggest issue was the bit didn't hold the grip stud super tight or securely. The grip stud would sometimes wobble and if it got off center to would go in on an angle and blow out the knob. That happened to me two or three times on by rear tire. I ended up using the driver out of my 1/4 socket set to install a number of them manually. I think you get better control with the manual set up. But with the attachment on the driver I had some play at the bit.

    I think I'm going to order some more studs for my wife's bike and get the manual tool as well. From what I could tell in the photos, the bit is the same for cordless drill or manual driver. Their manual driver handle looks like it will be more solid and perhaps my existing bit was a little bit defective? So far I've not lost any studs but I've not been able to ride a lot due to snow conditions being too deep. They worked quite well on ice with around 75 in each tire.
    If you are in the girdwood/anchorage area I have the manual tool that you can borrow to stud your wife's bike.
    ptarmigan hardcore

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: farleybob's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    238
    I switched from the drill to the manual method after having several studs take a bad angle and blow out the side of the knob. I had much better control putting them in manually. I used the drill to remove studs from a Nate. The drill works much faster for removal!
    I AM FAT!
    2016 Salsa Blackborow
    2018 Salsa Blackborow Mid

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    I switched from the drill to the manual method after having several studs take a bad angle and blow out the side of the knob. I had much better control putting them in manually. I used the drill to remove studs from a Nate. The drill works much faster for removal!
    hey guys, I put 78 grip studs per Lou in both front and rear for blackborow with manual tool, took about 2.5 hours, placement was similar to above, two rows each tire, in between center knobs row and outside knobs. I thought the manual tool was easy to use and very controlled. Took a quick ride on asphalt and crushed limestone (no snow in northern illinois currently) after getting used to the "clicking" noise, seemed to ride pretty normal. thanks for all the input guys!

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jaredbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    258
    Wow I just looked back and found that I started this thread in late 2012. I continue to use the original 100 studs and have lost none. I have had them out of the tires and put back in three times and continue to have no desire for more than my current stud count. I love the confidence the studs provide and I still think they are way over priced.
    laotzucycles.blogspot.com

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    445
    Quote Originally Posted by Co-opski View Post
    If you are in the girdwood/anchorage area I have the manual tool that you can borrow to stud your wife's bike.
    Thanks for the offer but I'm 300 miles away.

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,384
    Gripstud patterns I used in my Bud's and Lou's. Second season rolling on these with studs, lots of asphalt time, haven't lost a one or torn a lug.
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-gripstud-bud-pattern.jpg
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-gripstud-lou-pattern.jpg
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  95. #95
    Workin for the weekend!
    Reputation: -Todd-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,339
    ^^^ What's the stud count on that pattern? Looks good, not excessively heavy.
    Todd :thumbsup:

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    439
    Thanks, watermonkey, that's a huge help!

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,035
    I know most everyone has been reporting that they never lose a stud, but I lost 3 last season and this season I've already lost 10 in only 8 rides or so (I think in total I've lost 4 out of the front and 9 out of the back). I run 60 front, 30 rear in Bud/Bud, but the terrain around here (Front Range of Colorado) has a lot of rocks.

    I think I've lost a ton recently because of powder on top of rocks (mostly 4-8" or so), so as you're pedaling to go anywhere the tire is slipping and the studs are the first thing to catch on the rocks. I have the studs buried a bit deeper than most of the pics in this thread too. I check after rides and I've found several studs partway out, and I've also found that re-using the exact same spot where I've lost a stud definitely increases the chance the new one will disappear.

    I have very minimal studs (they definitely slip on steeper ice or if you accelerate too hard), so that could be another factor. Bigger gaps between studs means that the tire accelerates more before the next stud hits a rock if I'm spinning in snow up a steep rocky trail.

    Despite the insane price I love them, I definitely would have wiped out a bunch of times on icy patches in trees and broken my arm (or my neck!) - but next time I'd get more since I'm now missing 3 and I'm out since I only got 100 to begin with. Perfect for occasional ice patches on trails, but I would definitely want a lot more for aggressive ice riding.

  98. #98
    Cars Are Evil
    Reputation: Vermont29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,125
    Do the Grip Studs add much rolling resistance or affect handling on pavement?

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    105
    [QUOTE=fatbikenewbie;12441615]As I continue my rehab from a Thanksgiving morning ride wrist break, I too ordered 200 grip studs from gripstud.com. planning to put most into Lou/Lou on my 2015 blackborow (some for shoes). I see lots of folks think about qty. 60 is fine. Can somebody please explain, show optimum placement for gripstuds in a Lou front and back. thanks much, btw, I plan to get 4.8 knards or Bud/knard come spring. Thanks![/QUOTE

    Are you guys using the #1000 studs?

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Thanks for all the input, just got Bud/Lou for my FatBoy, just ordered grip studs so may i see the 60/40 pattern pics, if that is enough i will sell my 150 excess(Mtl. Qc)
    This is for winter only, hardtail 29 other months.

  101. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    105
    150 is not enough. I wish I would have ordered 300. The 150 gives you more confidence to ride on ice, but you can't lean over when turning on ice. more is better. load em up!

  102. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Thanks, i will have 250 in 2 days any pics with suggested pattern?

  103. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    Thanks, i will have 250 in 2 days any pics with suggested pattern?
    PM'd you

  104. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    wadedro 2 bad we are not neighbors, i would pay u a Bud, thanks for the big help. I wont race but at 59 i try to play safe to play more decades

  105. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    611
    Quote Originally Posted by Vermont29er View Post
    Do the Grip Studs add much rolling resistance or affect handling on pavement?
    I don't notice a lot of added rolling resistance but boy are they are LOUD on the road. When I'm riding around town, people walking have turned around just to see where the noise is coming from.

    As for handling on pavement I feel like tight fast cornering would be bad for the studs but I've avoided that scenario so far.

  106. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    611
    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    150 is not enough. I wish I would have ordered 300. The 150 gives you more confidence to ride on ice, but you can't lean over when turning on ice. more is better. load em up!
    I got 300 and put almost 200 in the Bud and about 80 in the Lou. The rest are spares or in my boots.

    Seems to work great.

  107. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    49
    Ok I'm so glad this thread is been going! Been studying the subject for a while and had few scary experiences at speed making me realized that I definitely need studs! haha.

    Looking at all the patterns here and R&Deeing the optimum pattern I've come to this while I'm waiting for Purolator to drop my 200 Grip Studs & Manual tool...so stoked!

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_1386.jpg

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_1385.jpg

    So the count is Bud (80 studs) & Lou (76 studs) so I still have 44studs left for tweaks or spare...

    Oh! Packaged is here while I write this line! Let's do this!

    to be continued...
    2016 Transition Patrol 3 (Satan's AM ride)
    2016 RSD Mayor (winter Fatbike)
    2016 RSD Mayor (29+, summer setup)
    2016 RSD Catalyst (700+, gravel & commuter)
    2013 Felt Breed (SSCX, winter commuter)
    2010 NS Bike Metropolis (DJ, bmx, pump track)

  108. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800

    Good job! nice pics

    Quote Originally Posted by dhbasher View Post
    Ok I'm so glad this thread is been going! Been studying the subject for a while and had few scary experiences at speed making me realized that I definitely need studs! haha.

    Looking at all the patterns here and R&Deeing the optimum pattern I've come to this while I'm waiting for Purolator to drop my 200 Grip Studs & Manual tool...so stoked!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1386.jpg 
Views:	329 
Size:	111.2 KB 
ID:	1120212

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1385.jpg 
Views:	561 
Size:	123.7 KB 
ID:	1120213

    So the count is Bud (80 studs) & Lou (76 studs) so I still have 44studs left for tweaks or spare...

    Oh! Packaged is here while I write this line! Let's do this!

    to be continued...
    Some put about 5 per boot. Please report on your experience with details, your weight, style(focus on speed?) i like my ground control but i bought Bud/Lou and 250 gripstuds + manual tool. I am a beginer (a few months) fat and mountain(hardtail) but 55 years of pedaling around. I was thinking of starting with 60/40 front/back and going to 120/80 if i feel the need but your pattern is totaly different. Thanks

  109. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kaleidopete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    324
    My Bud studded with number 3000B and number 1000 studs



    Northern NJ

  110. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Hi Kaleidopete, is there any reason why you have a lou in front instead of a bud? thanks

  111. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kaleidopete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    324
    I don't notice much difference in either and I have two bikes that use Bud & Lou so altogether I have two Buds & two Lou's and that is what I had laying around when my studs came in. I also mix my Snowshoe tire 2XL with a Dillinger 5 or a Bud.
    Guess I just ain't fussy, or ride too slow to notice a difference.
    Northern NJ

  112. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    49

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    Got my Bud studded (80 studs).



    Now for the Lou I was advised differently by the guy I've bought the studs from...studs to much on the outside are mostly useless.

    So he suggest that pattern but that would put the count to around 140studs, don't have enough.



    And I remember skidding the rear on off-camber icy climbs so I feel like I would still need few studs more on the outside but not in the "useless" zone for rear.

    So my new pattern could be more like this...will stud the Lou this afternoon so still thinking for the best pattern... blue dot (80 studs) for traction and maybe the green dot (40 studs) for off-camber traction... around 120 studs total.



    For a full report, we're having snow mixed with rain at 4deg right now and it's going to go back down to -15 tonight so I'll probably have the best testing ground in the coming days!

    For the required speed at what I want the studs to help is using my Fatbike the same way I use my Enduro bike no matter the conditions! Coming from 15yrs of downhill bike...
    Dropper post, wide bar, bluto taking hits, standing and pedalling as fast as possible going down and climbing whatever comes my way!





    Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
    2016 Transition Patrol 3 (Satan's AM ride)
    2016 RSD Mayor (winter Fatbike)
    2016 RSD Mayor (29+, summer setup)
    2016 RSD Catalyst (700+, gravel & commuter)
    2013 Felt Breed (SSCX, winter commuter)
    2010 NS Bike Metropolis (DJ, bmx, pump track)

  113. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    49

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    Quote Originally Posted by kaleidopete View Post
    My Bud studded with number 3000B and number 1000 studs



    Interesting pattern, something I could do with what I have left.

    But the main idea I was told is that you can use studs anywhere except in the center knobs...


    Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
    Last edited by dhbasher; 02-08-2017 at 03:10 PM.
    2016 Transition Patrol 3 (Satan's AM ride)
    2016 RSD Mayor (winter Fatbike)
    2016 RSD Mayor (29+, summer setup)
    2016 RSD Catalyst (700+, gravel & commuter)
    2013 Felt Breed (SSCX, winter commuter)
    2010 NS Bike Metropolis (DJ, bmx, pump track)

  114. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dudeist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    328
    I have about 80 gripstuds in a Bud, and had to move some from the smaller knobs after they started to wear out the sides of the knobs, especially the edge knobs. I like to play on the course granite rocks, and try to stay neutral on rocks, but I think glancing or sliding off sideways quickly wears out side knobs with studs in them. No problem with the big rectangle knobs, though.

  115. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kaleidopete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    324
    Quote Originally Posted by dhbasher View Post
    Interesting pattern, something I could do with what I have left.

    But the main idea I was told is that you can use studs anywhere except in the center knobs...


    Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
    I just did the center row this week and I like it, especially riding glare Ice on the lakes. I only waisted about 38 studs by doing this if all goes bad
    Northern NJ

  116. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    49

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    So my pattern for the Lou gives me more studs then expected but I feel their going to be needed specially on hard off-camber climbs...(118studs) it's actually more than my 80 studs in the Bud but we'll see. I could add perhaps 40 studs in the Bud but I'm having a hard time finding a symmetrical pattern...
    Much easier on the Lou.




    Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
    Last edited by dhbasher; 02-12-2017 at 05:31 AM.
    2016 Transition Patrol 3 (Satan's AM ride)
    2016 RSD Mayor (winter Fatbike)
    2016 RSD Mayor (29+, summer setup)
    2016 RSD Catalyst (700+, gravel & commuter)
    2013 Felt Breed (SSCX, winter commuter)
    2010 NS Bike Metropolis (DJ, bmx, pump track)

  117. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    49

    More studs! Update!

    So, I had a chance to test my 80 (Bud)/118 (Lou) pattern.

    I manage to get in 2nd & 3rd place on Strava riding my local fatbike trails!

    The guy in front has a full carbon Trek with Lauf fork with a racing background...he has, at least, 5lbs lighter bike with 4" racing tires...

    But I still had two scary understeer on front & one side skid going up a tight icy switchback so...

    I've bought another 100 studs to get me a 120(Bud)/156 (Lou) setup.

    It looks like this:

    Bud has an arrow kind of pattern for a symmetrical cornering grip.

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_1571.jpg

    Lou, I just add the studs missing on my alternate mid-outside knobs pattern so I get the same grip left or right.

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_1570.jpg
    Last edited by dhbasher; 03-01-2017 at 09:58 AM.
    2016 Transition Patrol 3 (Satan's AM ride)
    2016 RSD Mayor (winter Fatbike)
    2016 RSD Mayor (29+, summer setup)
    2016 RSD Catalyst (700+, gravel & commuter)
    2013 Felt Breed (SSCX, winter commuter)
    2010 NS Bike Metropolis (DJ, bmx, pump track)

  118. #118
    rth009
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    892
    For a rear tire, it seems to me you'd want a row of studs in the center. I havent done any studies or comparisons, but that's the way I set mine up, the thought being that usually when you need traction on the rear, you are pedaling and the tire is not leaned over and the studs in the center will grip. And even when the tire is leaned over, the center studs would remain in contact with the ice.

  119. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by rth009 View Post
    For a rear tire, it seems to me you'd want a row of studs in the center. I havent done any studies or comparisons, but that's the way I set mine up, the thought being that usually when you need traction on the rear, you are pedaling and the tire is not leaned over and the studs in the center will grip. And even when the tire is leaned over, the center studs would remain in contact with the ice.
    Yes, I was advice to use the small blocs in the mid center instead but I felt I was skidding climbing icy off camber section or tight switch backs.
    In those case, I have to lean the bike a bit and tend to loose traction if icy.
    Perhaps I'll have to had some in those blocs if I feel the need but for now I had absolutely no skidding climbing straight with what I have.
    The big paddle knobs are the key for traction on the Lou IMHO.
    2016 Transition Patrol 3 (Satan's AM ride)
    2016 RSD Mayor (winter Fatbike)
    2016 RSD Mayor (29+, summer setup)
    2016 RSD Catalyst (700+, gravel & commuter)
    2013 Felt Breed (SSCX, winter commuter)
    2010 NS Bike Metropolis (DJ, bmx, pump track)

  120. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Magicscreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    158
    Has anyone found a less expensive alternative to the Grip Studs? I can't believe we are really paying $1/stud for these.

    Thanks!

  121. #121
    rth009
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    892
    Since the Grip Stud thing was big a couple years ago, there are a lot less expensive studded tire options. At the time, it was just the 45 north dilligner studded, which were ridiculously expensive, and made $1 a stud seem cheap, when you could just add them to your existing tires.. If I were doing it now, Id look into the snowshoe studded tires, and perhaps others, rather than grip studs. Grip studs do work well though

  122. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by Magicscreen View Post
    Has anyone found a less expensive alternative to the Grip Studs? I can't believe we are really paying $1/stud for these.

    Thanks!
    I am happy with my grip studs on my Bud/Lou, a guy i rode with was happy with 300 screws screwed from inside out not sure but about 30$

  123. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Magicscreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    158
    Thanks. I don't want to screw through the inside of my tire -- I was just thinking there might be less expensive alternatives to the Grip Studs. I don't understand why they are so expensive.

  124. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    198
    There are less expensive options from sellers on aliexpress. 35 to 40 cents per stud.

  125. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    249
    The ice was insane here last week so I added 19 studs to my Lou placing 1 in every other center lug. Huge increase in traction, damn near impossible for me to spin out the rear wheel on anything but smooth lake ice. The popping noise on ice is a bit much.

    I'm a little concerned about the potential for flats as the center lugs are where the tire is wearing down the fastest. I might not leave them in all the time. I added a Rema F2 patch to the inside of the tire behind each stud, since I have a huge box of them and rarely use that size.

  126. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    6
    Does this stud bud and Lou work, or is it too long?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-9mm-S...FaJWNv&vxp=mtr

  127. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by toukoq84 View Post
    Does this stud bud and Lou work, or is it too long?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-9mm-S...FaJWNv&vxp=mtr
    They do not stay in.

  128. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    304
    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    toukoq84

    Does this stud bud and Lou work, or is it too long?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-9mm-S...FaJWNv&vxp=mtr




    They do not stay in.

    And they go all the way through the casing, so when they do pull out you have a large hole in your tire. I recently rode with a guy who used them. 5 min into the ride he pulled one out, and had a fountain of stans coming out the hole. He replaced the stud and re-inflated his tire, only to pull one out a short time later. He repeated this process a few times, and finally wrote them off as a failure.

  129. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by toukoq84 View Post
    Does this stud bud and Lou work, or is it too long?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-9mm-S...FaJWNv&vxp=mtr
    The ones i am happy with are

    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5053-0...ike-Tire-Studs

    in the province of Quebec they are popular(the price is canadian $

  130. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    6

  131. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dudeist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by toukoq84 View Post
    Those are ok but the stud is fatter and shorter than Gripstud brand. Also I think they are cheaper elsewhere, but you might have to buy 1000 from China.

  132. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    186
    I think the Bud/Lou are probably the best all around tires available as they provide good floatation, low rolling resistance for their size, don't pack up with snow and are capable of taking grip-studs. I blew out a few knobs on mine installing the studs years ago. I did it more often with my cordless drill so I did the rest by hand which was slow and labor intensive. Recently I tried drilling 1/8" pilot holes and installing grip-studs and that worked way, way better. You can control the angle the stud goes in and get a much better installation at the end.

    I don't think the bud/lou could ever be made equivalent to a 4.8 45 North studded tire, but the 45 North tires are not a true 4.8" wide (but than again neither is the bud/lou) but because the bud/lou is wider, they perform way better on soft trails and offer way more float. For the money, I think studding a bud/lou is the best value as you gain the best all around performance.

  133. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    186
    Quote Originally Posted by toukoq84 View Post
    Those look to be way too big in diameter for most fatbike tires. The price is definitely attractive though. The may be able to be installed in Maxxis Minions as they have big, chunky knobs. You'd need to do some measuring to be sure.

  134. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FatBike&SlenderWoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    223
    Q. What do you get when you punch 228 studs á la 45NRTH into a Surly Lou for less than $60 ?

    A. Louie Wrathchild

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-loustudded.jpg

    Details at link below.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dyi...l#post13549603

  135. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Blaster182's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    99
    100 -60 front 40 rear do a great job on the Bud/Lou combo not needed in middle row only on edges running this setup for 2 years now and work great on frozen lake and trails.
    Last edited by Blaster182; 02-25-2018 at 10:18 PM.

  136. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    65

    Update?

    Hi guys.

    I have finally decided to stud my Lou’s. Wondering what is the best solution after a few years of tinkering. Could someone recommand a stud and where to get it?

    Thank you.

  137. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,384
    https://www.gripstuds.com/Bicycle.php
    Grip Studs - brand name, in the thread title. Get the #1000, and the driving tool for #1000, and I strongly recommend a ratcheting screwdriver. Read the thread, tons of tips for install and placement.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  138. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Yup grip studs, you can use a glove do a tire a day.
    For relaxed situations about 50 each tire, 80-100 for better grip,
    150 for max grip in any situation. I use about 85 each.

  139. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    1,102
    Timely resurrection. i was googling for studs for my new B/L last night and came across this.

    Stupid question, are the cheaper good alternatives? i know there are Alieexpress studs etc.

    and for isntallation:
    - do you recommend the power tool to install? I can run my driver very slowly. And i think the pwoer tool also could be used as a hand tool?
    - can the studs be removed for the summer and be re-installed in winter? One problem I see with this is, dirt will be inthe hole the stud created, and the rubber cut out from the stud thread will make a second time screwing in weaker.
    - are pilot holes needed on the B/L?

    they have this odd sentence:
    " Always check tread depth before installing Grip Studs.®. If your tire has been pinned with pilot holes, do not use the holes if they have previously contained studs."

    What about if one doesn't use pilot holes? Can I then re-use a hole for a new stud?
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  140. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    Timely resurrection. i was googling for studs for my new B/L last night and came across this.

    Stupid question, are the cheaper good alternatives? i know there are Alieexpress studs etc.

    and for isntallation:
    - do you recommend the power tool to install? I can run my driver very slowly. And i think the pwoer tool also could be used as a hand tool?
    - can the studs be removed for the summer and be re-installed in winter? One problem I see with this is, dirt will be inthe hole the stud created, and the rubber cut out from the stud thread will make a second time screwing in weaker.
    - are pilot holes needed on the B/L?

    they have this odd sentence:
    " Always check tread depth before installing Grip Studs.®. If your tire has been pinned with pilot holes, do not use the holes if they have previously contained studs."

    What about if one doesn't use pilot holes? Can I then re-use a hole for a new stud?
    I’ve had good luck with the knock of grip studs. Bought off eBay not AliExpress, But look like the same thing. I highly recommend using a power tool to assist in driving the stud into the tire. It will be painful using a hand tool to instalI 60 let alone 100+ studs. Painful both literally and figuratively. Your forearms will hurt and it will take a LONG time. And even with a drill it still takes a bit of technique to get the cutting threads to catch the rubber. I don’t ride my studded tires that much but they’ve held up 2 winter seasons. I’d definitely buy them again.


    I personally haven’t removed studs for the summer. I studded my 4.8 winter tires and bought 4.0 summer tires.

  141. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Here we use these tires 5 months or less. Different one for different season.
    You might find take off for a good deal.

  142. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Blaster182's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    99
    I have been running 60 front 40 rear for many years and work awesome in the bud and lou. Make sure to keep the ones on the front towards the outside edges

  143. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by justin70 View Post
    I’ve had good luck with the knock of grip studs. Bought off eBay not AliExpress, But look like the same thing. I highly recommend using a power tool to assist in driving the stud into the tire. It will be painful using a hand tool to instalI 60 let alone 100+ studs. Painful both literally and figuratively. Your forearms will hurt and it will take a LONG time. And even with a drill it still takes a bit of technique to get the cutting threads to catch the rubber. I don’t ride my studded tires that much but they’ve held up 2 winter seasons. I’d definitely buy them again.


    I personally haven’t removed studs for the summer. I studded my 4.8 winter tires and bought 4.0 summer tires.
    sounds like a dedicated winter set is appropriate. My search skills are lacking... could you provide a link to a specific seller or offer of grip-studs that worked for you?
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  144. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    sounds like a dedicated winter set is appropriate. My search skills are lacking... could you provide a link to a specific seller or offer of grip-studs that worked for you?
    The eBay listing is long gone from 2 years ago. These look the same on Amazon

    https://www.amazon.com/Marrkey-Carbi...a-833170697910

  145. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by justin70 View Post
    The eBay listing is long gone from 2 years ago. These look the same on Amazon

    https://www.amazon.com/Marrkey-Carbi...a-833170697910
    I got them today and tried to screw one in. I tried to get them in the " sipes" like on the pictures above. But they were just wandering sideways and not getting any thread. Somehow the treads just move out of the way.

    what's the trick?
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  146. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    I got them today and tried to screw one in. I tried to get them in the " sipes" like on the pictures above. But they were just wandering sideways and not getting any thread. Somehow the treads just move out of the way.

    what's the trick?
    I did mine with tires on wheeels and maybe 8 PSI.
    Use one glove, do a tire a day.
    You will get it. Just push down while you turn. Only the start
    is a bit tricky. The first few take time but you will accelerate
    with time. I guess if you need look on utube for a video.

  147. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    I did mine with tires on wheeels and maybe 8 PSI.
    Use one glove, do a tire a day.
    You will get it. Just push down while you turn. Only the start
    is a bit tricky. The first few take time but you will accelerate
    with time. I guess if you need look on utube for a video.
    I think the fact the B/L tires have the tread knob " siped" makes it harder. I tried with tire on, will try with more pressure tomorrow.

    I got 2 in. My only concern is they stick a bit out. I don't mean the carbid stud, but the screw part sticks out by a mm. I didn't want to use too much force yet. should the " screw part" be flush with the rubber?

    I watched the original video, but that is with regular block treads. :
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac6G...nel=SpruceTree
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  148. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    304
    Installing them is not fun.

    I also did mine on installed and well inflated tires. Use a drill/electric screw driver on a slow speed. Push them in to the tire with a good amount of force as it spins. They will bite and screw in.

    My hat goes off to the people installing them without a electric tool of some sort.

  149. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    I think the fact the B/L tires have the tread knob " siped" makes it harder. I tried with tire on, will try with more pressure tomorrow.

    I got 2 in. My only concern is they stick a bit out. I don't mean the carbid stud, but the screw part sticks out by a mm. I didn't want to use too much force yet. should the " screw part" be flush with the rubber?

    I watched the original video, but that is with regular block treads. :
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac6G...nel=SpruceTree
    Just let the pin out.
    Imagine you are drilling a piece of wood, apply the pressure to target the center of the wheel. Just turn until the stud is hidden in the rubber and the tiny bit is left out. You will have a great set of tires. Believe me i did it on 2 pairs of Bud/Lou. Use your legs to hold the wheel/tire 1 hand to screw and 1 hand to stabilize the stud.

  150. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    Just let the pin out.
    Imagine you are drilling a piece of wood, apply the pressure to target the center of the wheel. Just turn until the stud is hidden in the rubber and the tiny bit is left out. You will have a great set of tires. Believe me i did it on 2 pairs of Bud/Lou. Use your legs to hold the wheel/tire 1 hand to screw and 1 hand to stabilize the stud.
    Here the pictures from last night. Do they need to go in 1mm more in to be flush with the rubber? Or is that how you guy have them?

    And yes, I will try again at a higher pressure. That probably will increase the "siping gap" and the close it at lower pressure again to hold the screw better. i actually will take these 2 test studs out since I'm still riding and we don't have frost yet. I'm working on a separate summer wheelset, because un-studding the tire for summer doesn't sound like a good idea here.


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-20201120_201215.jpg  

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-20201120_201222.jpg  

    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  151. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    183
    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    Here the pictures from last night. Do they need to go in 1mm more in to be flush with the rubber? Or is that how you guy have them?

    And yes, I will try again at a higher pressure. That probably will increase the "siping gap" and the close it at lower pressure again to hold the screw better. i actually will take these 2 test studs out since I'm still riding and we don't have frost yet. I'm working on a separate summer wheelset, because un-studding the tire for summer doesn't sound like a good idea here.


    Herr-

    Yes, I’d screw the studs in another 1 mm so that the “base” of the pointy part is flush with the top of the rubber knob. The studs can be torn out of the knobs during breaking in particular. In my experience, leaving some exposed “base” just provides more surface area for torquing the stud out of the knob.

    A few years ago, our Scandinavian member, “Espen,” posted a tip to improve stud retention. Apparently, he puts a drop of Loctite 480 in the knob sipe before inserting the stud. The Loctite 480 adheres to both the metal and rubber especially well, so it reduces the loss of studs.

    Unfortunately, I didn’t find many sources for Loctite 480 here in the US, and, as I recall, it was VERY expensive. I finally found some on AliExpress, I think, for ~$20/“20 gram” (<1 oz?) bottle, plus shipping.

  152. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,384
    Agree with prior comments, set them deeper. I've now gripstudded 5 bud/lou tires, and two Nates. I don't think I've lost a gripstud yet. Most of these were set by hand, the last two I used a ratcheting screwdriver (very helpful), but finally purchased a small electric screwdriver for this purpose alone. It works really well, and is way, way smaller than a drill.

    Use the gel type hand sanitizer (who doesn't have some around these days?) as a cutting fluid. Apply to the sipe, and use significant downward pressure on a very well inflated tire (15 psi or so), this will seat the stud down between the sipes. Focus the pressure to bias the cutting edge of the gripstud for the initial turn. I think this helps get a better bite and seat better vs just chewing up the rubber.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  153. #153
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    1,102
    thanks, will try once it gets colder.

    What will happen when the rubber treads wear down?

    Do you then screw the studs in a bit more? The treads start at ~ 7mm. So if they go down to 4mm, the grip stud may have difficulty to find enough depth.

    One thing i learned, if you buy a new tire and you already know you want studs, you are better off buying a studdable tire to begin with :-)
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  154. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Your problem is you looked at the wrong video. Bud Lou have deep knobs, do not worry you will not generate problems. Get them deep in but obviously let the pin out. In my area to ride often this is unbeatable. Great for traction on snow, great to float and great on ice. Very few do these 3 things so well. And many use them for winter only. Some use other tires, some like me use other bikes for other seasons.

  155. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    183
    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    thanks, will try once it gets colder.

    What will happen when the rubber treads wear down?

    Do you then screw the studs in a bit more? The treads start at ~ 7mm. So if they go down to 4mm, the grip stud may have difficulty to find enough depth.

    One thing i learned, if you buy a new tire and you already know you want studs, you are better off buying a studdable tire to begin with :-)
    I’ve never found that rubber tread wear is much of an issue in the winter. Starting with new tires, you should easily expect to get several winter seasons’ use out of a pair of gripstudded tires.

  156. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,800
    Without a car my fat sees sidewalks, streets, roads and trails and they last. Just screw them and enjoy.

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.