Fatty stripper vs split tubes vs ? On V2 27.5 mulefuts- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 41 of 41
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120

    Fatty stripper vs split tubes vs ? On V2 27.5 mulefuts

    Been having some bad luck with my 27.5 tubeless wheels lately after installing new D4's. Never had this issue with barbs gnars beists or WC's before. Even my gnars didnt leak taped the same way the last few months. Running the same stans sealant and gorilla tape on all my bikes with no issues until now.

    Now matter how tight I tape my wheels to the bead im getting a leak out of the rim seam. I've had it seal up and hold just to let go 30 minutes later while out on the trail today.

    Fresh tape 1st ride out my rear went to 3 psi 7k into the ride so fully retaped for today and 3k in my fronts at 3 psi. Put another 12km on without any issues but obviously I have to sort this out.

    Are guys gluing the seams on these rims? Should I just order fatty strippers? Is there a better split tube alternative that wont leak at the rim seam?

    I'm no rookie, everythings scrubbed, dried, wiped with alchohol and meticulously taped with no bubbles. I've heard stans is too thin and wont seal these seams? Never had the issue last season with stans race sealant.

    Thanks for your time


    Fatty stripper vs split tubes vs ? On V2 27.5 mulefuts-screenshot_20190113-215550_video-player.jpg

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    633
    Just did tubeless on 3 27.5 x 80mm Mulefuts. Two new Gnarwahls and one FBR. No leaks even without Stans. You may have a bad bead or maybe a nick, but Stans should have taken care of it.

    I used the Stretch Wrap. Have modified it by applying more stretch (pressure) and using 5 wraps only. Here's the link if you're interested.

    Tubeless With Stretch Wrap by Bumpyride69 | Photobucket
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,330
    It looks like it is leaking between the bead and the rim, it just happens to be at the seam.

    I use Zip flashing tape as it conforms nicely up the side of the rim and provides a seal between the rim and the bead. The threaded reinforcement of Gorilla tape prevents the nice conformance.

    You should not have to resort to Fatty Strippers or split tube on a Mulefut.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    309
    I would go the fattie strippers route, if you have to.

    45n screw the bead up on the new 27.5 d4's? I installed some 27.5 vans on some 80mm mulefuts with no issues.

    As said before, does the rim have a nic somewhere?
    =========================================
    Minnesota Off Road Cyclists www.morcmtb.org

  5. #5
    fat guy on a little bike
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    681
    as Bluecheesy said, it is your rim seam, where the two halves of the pin are pinned. some rims have wider gaps than others. if they had welded joints you would not have this problem... but they would be more $ then...

    a little dab of silicone on the inside of each rim side, right at the joint, above the tape will cure it.

    i swap tires frequently, for permanent tire repairs or to try different tires. fatty stripper or split tube sucks for this. the silicone gets pulled off eventually, so personally i put a small dab of JB quick on my pinned rims. that way it always stays there.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Definetly leaking at the seam as I've monitored it the last two rides and had leaks both front and rear bubbling out of the seam. I didnt not have this issue with bontrager tires on v2 mulefuts when I ran gnars or barbs.

    You advise dabbing the silicone once the wheels have already been taped? Or a small amount of jb weld across the entire eam before its taped? I was thinking that a rigid adheisive may just crack off when the rim flexes?


    Thank everyine

  7. #7
    fat guy on a little bike
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    681
    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    You advise dabbing the silicone once the wheels have already been taped? Or a small amount of jb weld across the entire eam before its taped? I was thinking that a rigid adheisive may just crack off when the rim flexes?
    NO, you don't need to do the ENTIRE seam, the tape covers 98% of it. it is only the very edges where the tire bead meets the tape, that is where your issue is.

    the quick and easy cure is to pop the bead on both sides of the tire, then squeeze it with some sort of clamp to gain access the inside of the rim. then clean off the insides of the rim of all sealant etc. a little bit of of adhesive remover or brake clean on a rag will do this easily. then put a dab of silicone sealant/caulk on both rim joints. wait for it to dry, then remove the clamp from the tire and inflate. easy peasy.

    i have 14 rims in the basement that i have done this to, all of them have never failed where the rim joint was after the JB "mod". i just bent another mulefut the other day, but the JB is still kicking...

    i have had this problem with nearly every pinned fat rim i have ever had. Blizzerk, Mulefut gen 1 and 2, My Other Brother Darryl... etc. when taping, if you put tape up the rim bead area, it will solve the problem, BUT eventually that tape gets pulled toward the center after swapping tires enough times, exposing the rim joint, thus pi55ing sealant and air out.


    i have fresh rims down stairs as well as "modded" ones. i will get more pics if you need, but it is fairly simple to figure out...

    *just sharing my experience and my technique to resolve the issue* works great for me, YMMV...

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Thanks everyone for the help. I'm doing a multi day overnight trip in a few months and the last thing I want to deal with is tape issues. Is no one running the fatty strippers anymore? I only switch tires during summer and think it may almost be worth it to alleviate the issues and worries.

  9. #9
    EAT MORE GRIME
    Reputation: 127.0.0.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    4,444
    I use fatty strippers, they work great, so I'd say use them


    the other thing to do is: get rid of the seam

    remove tire, clean out sealant from seam area
    steel-wool scuff the seam area
    mix up some jbweld original cold, let it harden a bit so it is like silly putty
    work it into the seam, scrape it down smooth, let harden 24 hours
    finish up with dremel tool buffing to smooth further if needed

    done, no seam issues, ever again
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AllMountin''s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,080
    Fatty strippers and split tube are functionally the same thing. Fatty is potentially lighter, but may depend on the tubes used. Split tube is reusable if you leave a little extra past the bead. Split tube eliminates a possible leak point (valve is separate on fatty stripper).

    Both offer a better interface than tape, as they have more friction, resist slippage, and they tend to bond together over time.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,330
    ^^^ Exactly. A slight weight savings is the only benefit to a fatty stripper. Split tubes are also much easier to trim off excess.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    What tubes are you guys splitting? I'm no racer just a rec guy that rides alot so a little extra weight is ok but I still want the feel/self healing advantage of tubeless tires

    You must have to have a decent amount hanging off the rim bead with a split tube to re use it multiple times? The split tube idea is starting to sound better and better. Getting pretty fed up with taping these wheels twice in 2 rides and still having issues. Today will be the 3rd full tape job in 3 days...

    I'm real close to just ordering $100 in fatty strippers and never having to deal with this again.

  13. #13
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,352
    I have the welded Surly My Other Brother Darryls on my bike and they NEVER leak. May be worth considering if you're going on a multi day trip.

    A few years back I was building wheels at a fat bike shop. One day, I laced up some Mulefuts for a Muk or a Beargrease... Can't remember. Up to that point I had built almost entirely Surly rims and every bike we did got the split tube treatment. When doing the Mulefuts, I expected to do a tape job but the owner split tube em. His reasoning was the owner was from another state and he didn't want him to have any trouble. They seated up and sealed mint.

    If you do choose to go split tubeless, 24" Q Tubes are the way to go. 24 so you stretch it over the rim and Q Tubes have removable cores for airing up and adding sealant. I've got some Clownshoes and Marge Lites that are split tube and have been trouble free forever.

    Edit: I just read back and saw yours are 27.5. You could probably also use a 26" tube. Just don't use a 27.5 or 29. You need to stretch it over to keep it in place.
    I like turtles

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Right on sounds like I would have to order the Q tubes since they arent stocked around here. Are these the light weight Q tubes or standard you're using? Pretty fed up with taping these wheels. Only reason I don't already have fatty strippers is because they're going to take weeks to arrive.

    Are guys splitting 26x2.7 tubes for 27.5 fat bike rims?

  15. #15
    fat guy on a little bike
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    681
    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    Getting pretty fed up with taping these wheels twice in 2 rides and still having issues. Today will be the 3rd full tape job in 3 days...

  16. #16
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,352
    Use the lightweight ones. You still need a rim strip.
    I like turtles

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney View Post
    Well I did tape much wider into the bead the 2nd time so not full insanity yet

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Use the lightweight ones. You still need a rim strip.
    Forsure. Hoping to find these local but it's not looking good.

  19. #19
    fat guy on a little bike
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    681
    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    Well I did tape much wider into the bead the 2nd time so not full insanity yet
    instead of doing the entire wheel over again, you need to concentrate your efforts exactly where the issue is, the pinned joint seam where the bead of the tire sits.

    if you were local to me, i would have it fixed up within a half hour (most of that time spent sitting waiting for silicone/JB to dry...

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney View Post
    instead of doing the entire wheel over again, you need to concentrate your efforts exactly where the issue is, the pinned joint seam where the bead of the tire sits.
    Sounds like I'll be popping them off this evening and apply some adheisive to a clean seam

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,330
    Yes, 26 x 2.7 tubes for split tube on 27.5 rim. Qtubes are good, but any presta with removable core will do. Qtubes are popular because they are one of the few that make 24" tubes for those of us with 26" rims.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Yes, 26 x 2.7 tubes for split tube on 27.5 rim. Qtubes are good, but any presta with removable core will do. Qtubes are popular because they are one of the few that make 24" tubes for those of us with 26" rims.
    Thanks for the info. No q tubes local just standard weight conti tubes with removable cores in 2.5 so they should work otherwise going to have to order some light Q tubes from out of country for 3x more

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney View Post
    instead of doing the entire wheel over again, you need to concentrate your efforts exactly where the issue is, the pinned joint seam where the bead of the tire sits.

    if you were local to me, i would have it fixed up within a half hour (most of that time spent sitting waiting for silicone/JB to dry...
    I should have it all taken care of this afternoon hoefully after apply some silicone to the seam edge

  24. #24
    fat guy on a little bike
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    681
    just went downstairs and snapped a few pics of the rims i have here, currently without tires-

    brand new, unlaced mulefut (you can visably see the gap at the pinned joint)


    new mulefut, held up, you can see the light poking through (bad pic, but you get the point)


    gen2 mulefut w/ JB dab fix


    wtb scraper w/ JB dab fix


    imho, fatty stripper/splittube is not needed when only two small areas in the bead corner need to be "plugged".

    if the mnfr's welded the rims, we would not be having this discussion...

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    I'm starting to think a split 2.5 conti tube weighs less than 2 wraps of gorilla tape(even the super wide doesnt reach far enough)

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney View Post
    just went downstairs and snapped a few pics of the rims i have here, currently without tires-

    brand new, unlaced mulefut (you can visably see the gap at the pinned joint)


    new mulefut, held up, you can see the light poking through (bad pic, but you get the point)


    gen2 mulefut w/ JB dab fix


    wtb scraper w/ JB dab fix


    imho, fatty stripper/splittube is not needed when only two small areas in the bead corner need to be "plugged".

    if the mnfr's welded the rims, we would not be having this discussion...
    Great pics thanks for all your help. Hoping to do the JB fix tonight so I can get back riding. Did you JB after or before taping?
    ASAP!

  27. #27
    fat guy on a little bike
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    681
    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    Did you JB after or before taping?
    ASAP!
    now, i do the JB fix before taping, as i noticed light passed through every pinned rim i have owned.

    i think you would be fine with some silicone/rtv gasket sealant dabs at the rim joint. i did that method on a set of scrapers a while back, and did not even remove the tire. at the next tire change the RTV pulled off and stuck to the tire bead, so that is when i concocted the JB quick mod.

    good luck!

  28. #28
    Your bike sucks
    Reputation: Carl Mega's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,625
    Good pics Rodney - clearly illustrates the concept.

    I put aqua seal across the seam and usually dab in the mfging holes too; recommended for the OP. I think Mikesee does shoegoo. Lots of ways to skin this cat.
    Working to stomp out redundancy, I repeat, working to stomp out redundancy.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,330
    This tape is wide enough to roll up the lips of the rim and works well. I used a narrower version of this Kapton type tape in my plus wheels. Many roadies use this in wheels holding 90 psi so it is strong.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/90mm-Width-...-/311781907119

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    This tape is wide enough to roll up the lips of the rim and works well. I used a narrower version of this Kapton type tape in my plus wheels. Many roadies use this in wheels holding 90 psi so it is strong.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/90mm-Width-...-/311781907119
    Right on!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty stripper vs split tubes vs ? On V2 27.5 mulefuts-20190114_125247.jpg  


  31. #31
    EAT MORE GRIME
    Reputation: 127.0.0.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    4,444
    .
    ..
    ...
    also this

    split tube, reusable, heavier

    fatty stripper, one time use, lighter

    it will fuse to the bead in a few weeks and it
    really cannot be reinstalled.

    it used to be advertised as "use some spray glue to tack it down for next time, so it can be reused" but fact is, installed, and trimmed, it will really stick tight to the bead and when you pull tire off some point later in the season, the whole tire will appear like an old school tubular, fatty stripper intact, practically melted to the bead... split tube won't do this.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    .
    ..
    ...
    also this

    split tube, reusable, heavier

    fatty stripper, one time use, lighter

    it will fuse to the bead in a few weeks and it
    really cannot be reinstalled.

    it used to be advertised as "use some spray glue to tack it down for next time, so it can be reused" but fact is, installed, and trimmed, it will really stick tight to the bead and when you pull tire off some point later in the season, the whole tire will appear like an old school tubular, fatty stripper intact, practically melted to the bead... split tube won't do this.
    Since the fatty stripper leaves a portion of itself glued to the tire, wondering if it building up after a few uses would cause the tire to not seal the best

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,330
    From my experience the fatty stripper can be removed fully from the tire, but not in a fashion that the fatty stripper can be reused.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    633
    Just going to add my $.02. I've bought the 5" stretch wrap from home depot. The cost is $9 for a 1,000 ft roll. It takes approx 50 ft to do one wheel with 5 layers. It costs me a few minutes and $.50 per wheel to install. It weighs next to nothing (I think 25 grams). It seals everything that has a functional wheel with a good rim strip. There is no residue on the wheel/rim strip when you change the tire. I've done about 14 to 16 wheels and my costs are still under $20 for all.

    The only bad thing about it, is that you need to use another $.50 worth of the wrap when you change tires. It's also biodegradable in a landfill. It's never failed when its been in a wheel.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Re...5001/202029371
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Does this work at minus 20 c

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    633
    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    Does this work at minus 20 c
    I have not used below 0 degrees Fahrenheit, although has been in a garage where -20 degrees Fahrenheit has been reached.

    This was mentioned to me by Espen W. who lives or lived in Norway. Good guy and regular contributor, and bike designer.

    My oldest original fit is from 2014. Still have the tire on a 26 x 80 mulefut.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Incase you ever wondered what 3 27.5 wraps of standard width gorilla tape weighs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty stripper vs split tubes vs ? On V2 27.5 mulefuts-20190114_172733.jpg  


  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    Did the math
    3 oz sealant, 3 wraps tape plus a valve weigh 264
    3 oz sealant, 2 wraps tape(rim strip),valve plus a fatty stripper weigh 260
    Interesting

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    202
    What was your final solution? I am having a heck of a time getting new Vanhelga to hold air on V2 27.5 Mulefut. Not from rim joint - just around bead in a few spots. Weird because it sealed fine on my old hugo with bent up rims....

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Saskrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    120
    They work flawless. Have a few hundred KM on them with no issues. I'll be switching to hodags with them in a few weeks too

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: solarplex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    1,563
    Quote Originally Posted by telejefe View Post
    What was your final solution? I am having a heck of a time getting new Vanhelga to hold air on V2 27.5 Mulefut. Not from rim joint - just around bead in a few spots. Weird because it sealed fine on my old hugo with bent up rims....
    Had 26 hodags do this. 6oz of orange, stans shake and leave them on their side. Will trickle down and glue the bead.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

Similar Threads

  1. How well does Bud and Lou play with Mulefuts?
    By machine4321 in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 11-30-2016, 11:14 PM
  2. HED BFD or I9 with Mulefuts
    By SRock24 in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 10-30-2016, 08:43 PM
  3. Mulefuts finally!
    By iCollector in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 06-23-2016, 09:53 AM
  4. Tubeless tire recs for Mulefuts on gravel and sand
    By Cycloid in forum Gravel Bikes
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-01-2016, 09:02 AM
  5. azonic striper bar
    By lostboys in forum Downhill - Freeride
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-20-2007, 07:03 PM

Members who have read this thread: 41

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.