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  1. #1
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    Panacea for finnicky tubeless rims (e.g. Fatboy) - FattyStripper ?

    FattyStripper Tubeless Solutions

    Looks cool! Like a less ghetto version of ghetto tubeless, or the ClownShoe strip + Margelite combo for wider rims?
    Fatbike / Monstercross / Hybrid

  2. #2
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    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?

    Has anyone tried this? Their website won't load.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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  3. #3
    All fat, all the time.
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    I came in for the fatty strippers ..... /letdown

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I came in for the fatty strippers ..... /letdown
    Sigh, one more disappointment for the books. Broke this 20 for no reason..

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    After warning my wife what she may see in the browser history I ordered a pair to try. A little concerning that they have no contact info, but it is PayPal at least.

    I hope it works! After setting up my Marge lites tubeless with a Clownshoe rim strip, I'd love a similar method for my Fatboy wheels.
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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    Way to step up, ordering a pair of strippers, dang you gotta be hung for that sort of work.!

    Me, I'm getting old, I'd settle for some pics and a little hot talk over tea

    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    After warning my wife what she may see in the browser history I ordered a pair to try. A little concerning that they have no contact info, but it is PayPal at least.

    I hope it works! After setting up my Marge lites tubeless with a Clownshoe rim strip, I'd love a similar method for my Fatboy wheels.

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    I haven't tried them since my ghetto tubeless is holding up well. I honestly would pull the trigger if there was a lot of weight savings though (or if the beads lock when deflated).

    Right now my money is going into lights - but thought somebody might have some luck w these hopefully.

    Paochow will surely report back!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    I haven't tried them since my ghetto tubeless is holding up well. I honestly would pull the trigger if there was a lot of weight savings though (or if the beads lock when deflated).

    Right now my money is going into lights - but thought somebody might have some luck w these hopefully.

    Paochow will surely report back!
    Will do!
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  9. #9
    bigger than you.
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    Grateful that it's not about strippers...

  10. #10
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    Any updates on this?
    I bike with tires.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardnation View Post
    Any updates on this?
    Sorry I've been busy with work and forgot to post follow up. I ordered a set of the fatty strippers and a set of red bling strips. The owner Jim called me the same day and asked what bike I was putting them on and offered to trim them to fit my Fatboy wheelset. Jim also gave me some pointers on how to best install them as I told him I wished to reuse them for summer/winter tires. Jim recommending a spray Elmers glue to adhere it to the rim and also said to use a small piece of old tube for the valve stem to make sure it had adequate thickness. Jim said if I removed the tire carefully I should be able to do multiple installs. Jim also sent me a comprehensive PDF of the install instructions.

    Shipping was quick via priority mail in a clear heat sealed pouch. The strips are similar in construction to an exercise band, thin and flexible. The bling strips are very reflective and adhesive backed. Jim recommended only removing the adhesive on the section that overlapped.

    I think I'll be waiting until November to install them though, as I'll be swapping to Snowshoe XL studded tires when snow season hits. I'll follow up with the install report and a ride report once I get the tires on.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  12. #12
    SimonsJ
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    Just saw your post... Does the website load for you?

    Sorry, just saw your post.

    This is the first I've heard that there was a problem with the ShopSite. Have you tried it lately?

    My contact info is [email protected] or [email protected]

    Thanks!

    Jim

    Quote Originally Posted by thecanoe View Post
    Has anyone tried this? Their website won't load.


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  13. #13
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    Just ordered a set for my new Mulefut 80's. Hoping to save some time and weight! Hoping they hold up as well as they are slated too!
    "Stay Upright!"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubinjs View Post
    Just ordered a set for my new Mulefut 80's. Hoping to save some time and weight! Hoping they hold up as well as they are slated too!
    Post pics!!
    Any feedback on the installation?

    Installation of FatBike Tubeless RimStrips

  15. #15
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Sorry I've been busy with work and forgot to post follow up. I ordered a set of the fatty strippers and a set of red bling strips. The owner Jim called me the same day and asked what bike I was putting them on and offered to trim them to fit my Fatboy wheelset. Jim also gave me some pointers on how to best install them as I told him I wished to reuse them for summer/winter tires. Jim recommending a spray Elmers glue to adhere it to the rim and also said to use a small piece of old tube for the valve stem to make sure it had adequate thickness. Jim said if I removed the tire carefully I should be able to do multiple installs. Jim also sent me a comprehensive PDF of the install instructions.

    Shipping was quick via priority mail in a clear heat sealed pouch. The strips are similar in construction to an exercise band, thin and flexible. The bling strips are very reflective and adhesive backed. Jim recommended only removing the adhesive on the section that overlapped.

    I think I'll be waiting until November to install them though, as I'll be swapping to Snowshoe XL studded tires when snow season hits. I'll follow up with the install report and a ride report once I get the tires on.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    How did your install go?

    Installation of FatBike Tubeless RimStrips

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Still haven't done it- No Snow yet

    I have everything sitting ready to go, including a new set of studded Snowshoe XL's, but we've had some unseasonably warm weather. Looks like it might finally start to turn this weekend, so I'll be doing it soon.
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  17. #17
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    Would this work on On One Fatty 70mm wheelset. Currently have Floaters on, but will be mounting 27tpi studded Dillinger 4's in a few days. My Trance is running tubeless, but it was already setup for me when I got it used, so I just added Stans, but never actually setup any tires tubeless.

    If it is too much hassle with the cheap On One wheels, I'll stick to lightweight tubes. How about friend's Felt DD 70 wheels? Better chance there?
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    FS Installation on RD

    Ok, folks, I have a real-world install (pic heavy, sorry). For reference, this is on a set of Holy Rolling Darryls, with Panaracer Fat B Nimble tires. Before I go any further I have to say that Jim at FS is a gem of a guy to work with. Patiently answered all my dumba$$ questions and walked me through what my HRD's would need to get them ship shape. I typically do split tube for my installs, but for those of you with my combo (HRD + FBN), you know that it is a MAJOR PITA, b/c the HRD has deep shoulders and a narrow bead shelf, and the FBN's are more of a 3.5" tire than a 4" tire. The combination does not make for easy mounting. So, I figured I'd give the FattyStrippers a go (plus the look I got from my wife when she saw the invoice was priceless). So, here's how it went:

    Started off by wrapping a piece of ribbon in a Gorilla clear repair tape sandwich, then overlapping two more onto each bead shoulder:Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1329.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1330.jpg

    Snipped a piece of old tube, burned a hole in it, used it to help seat the valve:
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1331.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1332.jpg

    The hole in the strip lets the valve through:
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1333.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1334.jpg

    Once on, it's a seamless airtight strip. Weighs almost nothing. Didn't take time to weigh it, but it's way lighter than a split tube:Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1335.jpg

    Since I have HRD's, I used foam rod to build up the shoulder area. Flip back one side at a time:
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1339.jpg

    Hit it with some spray adhesive and stick the rod to the sidewall. Adhesive holds it in place:
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1340.jpg

    Flip the strip back over:Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1341.jpg

    Repeat:
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1342.jpg

    Smear a little of this on the edge so that the tire can snap onto the bead:
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1343.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1344.jpg

    When you mount the tire, you can work it into the little gap between the foam rod and the shoulder bead hook:Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1345.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1346.jpg

    Hit it with a little air from the compressor and pop, beads went right into place. Not a hint of leakage anywhere. Nothing. Added a few ounces of Orange Seal and gave her the wobble and spin. Easy Peasy. Repeat for back tire.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1337.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_1349.jpg

    I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing stuff, and yes, there are cheaper solutions on the market, but with the trial and error that I have had with Rolling Darryls, nothing has even been in the same stadium of easy as this system. Could have aired them up with a floor pump.
    Last edited by baltobrewer; 12-08-2015 at 04:12 PM.

  19. #19
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Would this work on On One Fatty 70mm wheelset. Currently have Floaters on, but will be mounting 27tpi studded Dillinger 4's in a few days. My Trance is running tubeless, but it was already setup for me when I got it used, so I just added Stans, but never actually setup any tires tubeless.

    If it is too much hassle with the cheap On One wheels, I'll stick to lightweight tubes. How about friend's Felt DD 70 wheels? Better chance there?
    Yes, On One 70mm wheelsets have been converted to tubeless by several customers (mainly in Europe). All of them used the foam rods and said the install went really smooth. One of them was even able to mount a Fat-B-Nimble... which are notoriously loose.

  20. #20
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    Ordered 2 sets today for my bike and my wife's along with foam backers. These will be going on some Framed Wolftrax bikes. I'll try to get some pics.

    A coworker used the FattyStrippers on his bike and said it was the best way to do it he has seen. Insisted that I try it and he basically sold me on it. He had to tell his wife what he ordered to stay out of the dog house. Ordered him a back up set too today.

  21. #21
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    I converted my Fatboy over using the Fatty-Stripper setup during the Broncos game on Sunday. Watched the video on the website and it was easy as it could be. I ordered another setup for my Yeti plus a couple of spares this morning. I did need to use my compressor to seat the bead on my Ground Controls, my floor pump wasn't getting it done, but that was no big deal.

    Haven't had a chance to ride with them yet though. Stupid work!
    MiTT
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  22. #22
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    Installed the fattystripper said last night on my wife's Rolling Darryls, it was a pretty painless install. Went for a ride today over a lot of post holed snow and ice and the tires made easy work of the conditions.
    Nice set of pictures baltobrewer, can't wait to I get my new Mukluk!

  23. #23
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    I saw one of these at the LBS yesterday when picking up the D5's for studding. It looked very thin and when I asked about it, one of the mechanics said he hated them because they're so thin. He said they work well but are so thin that anything over about 20 psi makes them blow out easily. I know that's all they're rated for. He said he preferred the Ringle strip the best.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  24. #24
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I saw one of these at the LBS yesterday when picking up the D5's for studding. It looked very thin and when I asked about it, one of the mechanics said he hated them because they're so thin. He said they work well but are so thin that anything over about 20 psi makes them blow out easily. I know that's all they're rated for. He said he preferred the Ringle strip the best.
    Are you referring to the FattyStripper latex bands? The mechanic is mis-informed on many levels.
    1) The band is intended to be used with the stock vinyl rimstrip that comes with your wheels OR with some other structural reinfocement like the reflective BlingStrips over the cutouts and spokes.
    2) I've tested the strip to over 40 psi and yes... it made huge balloons at each cutout... but it didn't burst.

    Your mechanic is speculating and providing his opinion about what he thinks will happen.

    That said... there is nothing wrong with Sun Ringle tape if your rims are flat & narrow... like Sun Ringle rims. The latex bands still out-perform the tape with respect to anti-burp performance. The tape doesn't really work when you want to put the foam rods under it... which makes seating the bead possible with a floor pump as well as protects you from flats when you roll off the bead in a hard corner with too low of pressure. The foam works spectacularly because of the dynamic nature of the elastic material.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Are you referring to the FattyStripper latex bands? The mechanic is mis-informed on many levels.
    1) The band is intended to be used with the stock vinyl rimstrip that comes with your wheels OR with some other structural reinfocement like the reflective BlingStrips over the cutouts and spokes.
    2) I've tested the strip to over 40 psi and yes... it made huge balloons at each cutout... but it didn't burst.

    Your mechanic is speculating and providing his opinion about what he thinks will happen.
    No, he said he has seen them burst at 20 psi, so it wasn't speculation, and yes, it was the latex band. He did not mention what was used for a rim strip, but it's more than probable they did not install them, the original owner did. I was surprised at how thin it was but it makes sense that it'd be used with a more solid rim strip. Since the LBS does not stock them, it's also probable that whatever came in could have been damaged, resulting in a blowout when inflated. I'm only going by what he told me, but these are mechanics who work on everything from $50 junkers to $20,000 Ti custom jobs and never look down on anyone, so they're not bike snobs.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  26. #26
    vmk
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    Or you can make your own ghetto-version from virtually any plastic that can be heat sealed.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-dsc04889.jpg
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-dsc04891.jpg

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    No, he said he has seen them burst at 20 psi, so it wasn't speculation, and yes, it was the latex band. He did not mention what was used for a rim strip, but it's more than probable they did not install them, the original owner did. I was surprised at how thin it was but it makes sense that it'd be used with a more solid rim strip. Since the LBS does not stock them, it's also probable that whatever came in could have been damaged, resulting in a blowout when inflated. I'm only going by what he told me, but these are mechanics who work on everything from $50 junkers to $20,000 Ti custom jobs and never look down on anyone, so they're not bike snobs.
    I'll make a point to take some pics and post to the FAQ page. The engineering on the bands... I hung 420 lbs on the band before failure. The elasticity vs load is exponential. max elongation averages 12x, which you get to around 25% of failure load. The only reason I couldn't increase tire pressure to failure was that the rim was only rated to 30 psi and I was too scared at 40 to go any further. The bands were still in the elastic range at 40 psi. They are so incredibly over-designed for this application that 20 psi just isn't even close to enough force to cause failure.

    Can you PM me the bike shop? I'd like to research this further.

    Thanks!

  28. #28
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    After watching the install video, I gotta say this takes the cake for ease of install and use. My only question would be, how does the latex hold up to a really tight tire install? The DT Swiss + Ground Controls just pop on. Running Snowshoes xl's and Mulefut's, I can install by hand, but I do have to put a fair bit of pressure to stretch the tire bead over the rim. I'd be worried about ripping the Latex.

  29. #29
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    Agreed. Before taking on this project, I was using Gorilla Tape. It was too thick for some tires... So I used their thickness (which varies up to 50%) as a baseline "too thick" limit. The latex is thinner by quite a bit than duct tape or Gorilla tape... I could've gone thinner but I would've compromised strength & durability. The trick is to use the lube on the bead shoulder as shown in the instructions. The tightest tires just slide right on and off... think baby oil on a Fatty Stripper. Sorry... you can't get that out of your head can you?

    White lube, coconut oil or Vaseline all work great. Put it on a little thick and you may not need sealant at all in cold weather. Those tight tires are spectacular for anti-burp low pressure performance and for sealing up w/o sealant. You'll also probably be able to inflate with a floor pump.

  30. #30
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    My first try with a Fattystripper went well

    I wanted to try tubeless with my 9 yr old's Boris X5 and the only route with some success was Split tubes. The side wall was high and the tires were real loose.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3716.jpg
    Weinmann 80mm Rim
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3717.jpg
    See the profile of the bead
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3719.jpg
    Super Blingstrip 3M Orange reflectant I cut down to the width I needed
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3720.jpg
    Installed the foam rods, cut to length and tacked down with 3M 77 spray glue.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3721.jpg
    Mounted the FattyStripper and inserted the Valve. Was nice and easy.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3722.jpg
    The Fattystripper stretched over the rim and rods.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3724.jpg
    Lubed up the Fattystripper with Vaseline as that made mounting much easier and help seal the deal.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3725.jpg
    et Voila, On-One Floater mounted Tubeless on the less than desireable Weinmann rim.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_3727.jpg
    And for my next adventure I will be mounting the Fattystripper on a FatBoy 24".... pictures to follow.

    We'll be riding this bike this weekend so hopefully it holds at 8-9psi.
    H
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    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
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  31. #31
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    Nice pictures & description. I wondered about those foal rods with split tube method to help seal it up. my biggest concern is the foam collapsing in time and messing up the tape seal. Alternative ideas to the seal material to hold the tire on the shelves? I was thinking a harder weather stripping or putting in a thick bead of silicone caulk.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

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    I was set on the split-tube idea till I saw this product. While fat strippers may also be able to use it to control muffin-top and other bulges, I may spring for this since I just got a Fatboy with the 90mm SL rims. Loos like that may also have been the rim in the installation video.

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    How do you trim the overlap? ....ripping doesn't work as it leaves a bunch and cutting didn't seem to either as the razor grabbed and stretched the material

  34. #34
    vmk
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Nice pictures & description. I wondered about those foal rods with split tube method to help seal it up. my biggest concern is the foam collapsing in time and messing up the tape seal. Alternative ideas to the seal material to hold the tire on the shelves? I was thinking a harder weather stripping or putting in a thick bead of silicone caulk.
    I used plastic putty for Framed non tubeless no-name-rims:



    Adds a bit of weight though, about 70g.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deephaven View Post
    How do you trim the overlap? ....ripping doesn't work as it leaves a bunch and cutting didn't seem to either as the razor grabbed and stretched the material
    I have just to trim it. By pulling the overlap thight you can run scissors or a blade close to the tire and the overlap left will receed very close to the tire/rim edge. You need a sharp blade.

    I will ride it this weekend to see how it holds up. It's held air for 2 days so far no problem. I ran 8 psi and through some sharp edged ruts and I saw some Stans spurt out in one place. I hope the FattyStripper latex will bond with the Stans and the tire bead so it doesn't burp. Granted this application is for a 90lbs kid and not my 260lbs. The Weinmanns and the floaters are both not tubeless ready and very loose tolarences so I am pushing the limits here.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Nice pictures & description. I wondered about those foal rods with split tube method to help seal it up. my biggest concern is the foam collapsing in time and messing up the tape seal. Alternative ideas to the seal material to hold the tire on the shelves? I was thinking a harder weather stripping or putting in a thick bead of silicone caulk.
    I had foam collapse on these rims. Caulk got pushed out of the way eventually too. Tubeless is mandatory for me, so I eventually just got different rims. A better method of applying said caulk might change things, though

  37. #37
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    I had foam collapse on these rims. Caulk got pushed out of the way eventually too. Tubeless is mandatory for me, so I eventually just got different rims. A better method of applying said caulk might change things, though
    Do you have any pictures of the foam collapse?

    One of the design features of the FattyStripper latex bands is that their elasticity pushes the foam out up against the bead shoulder. It can still move around on hard impacts, but so far, it has always moved back to its original position. When I pulled the foam out of a wheel that had been assembled and pressurized for 6 months... the foam hadn't compressed at all, so no permanent deformation. Those tires still had great low pressure burp performance... when they were disassembled. The customer wanted to take out the dirty original rimstrips and put in BlingStrips. That is why we disassembled them.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deephaven View Post
    How do you trim the overlap? ....ripping doesn't work as it leaves a bunch and cutting didn't seem to either as the razor grabbed and stretched the material
    My favorite tool came from a LBS mechanic who has done quite a few FattyStripper installs (they don't sell a FatBoy tubed). Its the $1.99 small snap-blade razor at your local hardware store. Stretch the latex away from the bead at a 45deg angle and simply slide the tip of the blade right along the bead. If you pull fairly taught, the latex cuts easily and retracts to the rubber contact point. Only do cuts 3" at a time... it still goes really fast. You can do both sides of a wheel in about 1 minute.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-snapbladerazor.jpg  


  39. #39
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    Will I need the foam rod for Clownshoes?
    I AM FAT!
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    Will I need the foam rod for Clownshoes?
    Clownshoes can go either way... I have been recommending putting them in lately because of a friend who is doing the ITI (Iditarod Trail Invitational) reported that the foam let him seat his Bud/Lou super easy AND the added burp resistance at low pressure is just really nice insurance. The foam adds 14g TOTAL (7g/wheel). Totally worth it.

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    Will order this tomorrow or on Monday. Question for SimonJ: do I need anything else for the stock Specialized Fatboy Sl 90mm rims? I just picked up a leftover 2015 Fatboy.

  42. #42
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    Question: if the Mulefüt's are such a pain to break the bead on, why would you need the foam backing rods.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  43. #43
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    fattystripper order

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1035096[/ATTACH
    My order arrived last night, and about to install it but when I open the package, the reflective tape was punctured. I talked to Jim and he said to mail it back and going to replace it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_2381.jpg  


  44. #44
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    I've exchanged emails with Jim over their stealth strip and am impressed with the correspondence. Very pleasant and down to earth.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  45. #45
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    I couldn't be happier with my FattyStripper RimStrips / BlingStrips set. I found that the scissors on a small Swiss army knife slid quite nicely around the rim to trim off the excess latex. I will be ordering a spare set of FattyStrippers for sure and likely the new StealthStrips too. This system is simply awesome.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Clownshoes can go either way... I have been recommending putting them in lately because of a friend who is doing the ITI (Iditarod Trail Invitational) reported that the foam let him seat his Bud/Lou super easy AND the added burp resistance at low pressure is just really nice insurance. The foam adds 14g TOTAL (7g/wheel). Totally worth it.
    Jim,
    went to the post office today, they won't accept the package back because they said it was already opened and they want to repack it and send it back to you and charging me $5.75. I'm not going to spend more for the rim strip. Are you still gonna send me a replacement?
    Thanks

  47. #47
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    I am a bit of a perfectionist so I understand but......

    Why wouldn't you just mount the strip so the puncture is not in a cutout and call it good?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    I am a bit of a perfectionist so I understand but......

    Why wouldn't you just mount the strip so the puncture is not in a cutout and call it good?
    Thanks, but are you willing to pay for a defective product?

  49. #49
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    Mine would have a nick in it after the first bushwhacking ride


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  50. #50
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    Same here. I'd just run it rather than waiting.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    Thanks, but are you willing to pay for a defective product?
    Depends.

    I just got a second pair of Vasque boots for my kid that had the stitching on both flaps coming off. I decided to pay $10 and have a shoe repair guy fix them to avoid the hassle of returning them etc.

    I would run that rim strip but to each their own.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  52. #52
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    Went out yesterday and hammered on the bike to test the tubeless setup. Had rear at 10 and front at 9. Local trails are a ninja-goat rockfest of baby-head size stuff, and the setup was bulletproof. I intentionally ran harder than I otherwise would, wanted to see if it would burp. Nothing. Same pressure when I got back. Very impressed. BTW, I would run those blue rim strips as well. How much does it really matter to you if the rim strip has a hole? It doesn't need to be airtight. Pay the shipping back if it matters to you, but seems like a waste of good riding time to me. YMMV.

  53. #53
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    I went for a ride last weekend at a local trail in Colorado. I was on my regular bike as my new fat bike had been ordered by my LBS but was not in yet. I finished up my ride and started talking to a guy in the parking area riding a Fatboy. I was asking a lot of questions after he commentated that he was able to ride trails all winter last year. I asked him if he had converted to tubeless and he said yes using FattyStripper. He said he had been running the system for a while and it was holding up great and the easiest system he had used. I am going to give them a go when I switch mine over.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    Will order this tomorrow or on Monday. Question for SimonJ: do I need anything else for the stock Specialized Fatboy Sl 90mm rims? I just picked up a leftover 2015 Fatboy.
    Congrats... the sale that Specialized has on the 2015's is the score of the season. The 2016's ship with wheels that are way, way heavier... like a pound EACH. Huge mistake for Specialized to switch from the excellent SL 90's to the Stout XC 90mm wheelsets. When the shops run out of those... a used 2014 or 2015 will be a much better purchase than a new 2016.

    All you really need to make that wheel tubeless is the latex band if you have a set of tubeless valves laying around. If you choose to go a step further... change out the vinyl rimstrips and save another 20g or so (to do that with SRAM XO1 to XX1, it costs $250... and thats not even rotating weight ;-).

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Question: if the Mulefüt's are such a pain to break the bead on, why would you need the foam backing rods.
    I didn't know the Mulefut's were hard to break the bead on... that sounds like a really small tire issue. The Mulefut wheelset I built up with 4.6 GC's weren't tight at all.

    The foam helps you get a better air seal to the bead of the tire so that it can get seated on the rim easier. I've done a lot of tire/wheel combos with a good floor pump (just to show that it can be done). The foam also helps keep the air in the tire if the bead pushes off the narrow bead shoulder while riding with low pressure. Rims with narrow shoulders tend to roll off and instantly go poof... and then you can't get it seated again without a compressor.

  56. #56
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    Quality Control

    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1035096[/ATTACH
    My order arrived last night, and about to install it but when I open the package, the reflective tape was punctured. I talked to Jim and he said to mail it back and going to replace it.
    Hi Larry,

    I did return your messages within 15 minutes from when you sent them on a Friday night. There is more to this story than just one picture. We had a lengthy conversation about the situation. When I said I'd replace the one strip... you said "no, its through both strips". OK, well that's quite clearly a big puncture event because the material is coiled up when mailed. I asked about the package and you said there was no damage to it at all. OK, now we have a mystery that would stump Dick Tracy...

    Like the other member on here pointed out... If it were just one puncture, you could've just put the puncture behind the metal in your rim and not at a cutout.
    The way that those strips are hand-cut, hand-coiled and hand-packed, in addition to 3M's quality control, guarantees that a strip could never go out the door with even one defect like that... much less 20 punctures.

    I asked USPS today if you could just write "RETURN TO SENDER" over your address and they said yes, even if the package was re-taped. When I asked you to do that, you clearly didn't want to do that. I'm glad you did go and try... but "RETURN TO SENDER" will still come back to me without a charge to you. IF the post office determines that the puncture was their fault, they will reimburse all mailing costs. IF they determine that its my fault, I'll get charged. Either way... its no cost to you.

    USPS said they will absolutely cover the damage as part of their Priority Mail insurance. I'm more concerned about how something like that can happen and then making changes to make sure it can't happen again... but I need the strips back to begin the process of tracking down the cause.

    I realize its frustrating... Trust me, as a volunteer, doing this project to support our trail grooming efforts... its pretty time-consuming. I've had a latex band ship with a small defect and that totally could've happened. I didn't inspect both sides of every band because the quality controls by the manufacturer was so high. I now inspect every band before shipping. The BlingStrips have always had 100% inspection simply by the nature of how they have to be cut to the proper size and then hand-coiled and hand-packaged.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    I didn't know the Mulefut's were hard to break the bead on... that sounds like a really small tire issue. The Mulefut wheelset I built up with 4.6 GC's weren't tight at all.

    The foam helps you get a better air seal to the bead of the tire so that it can get seated on the rim easier. I've done a lot of tire/wheel combos with a good floor pump (just to show that it can be done). The foam also helps keep the air in the tire if the bead pushes off the narrow bead shoulder while riding with low pressure. Rims with narrow shoulders tend to roll off and instantly go poof... and then you can't get it seated again without a compressor.

    People report all sorts of difficulty, I'm surprised you missed the thread.

    It took me longer than usual to get the tires off since they do seal well. I did one wrap of Zip tape and after 2 days with no Stans it's still holding air fine.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    I didn't know the Mulefut's were hard to break the bead on... that sounds like a really small tire issue. The Mulefut wheelset I built up with 4.6 GC's weren't tight at all.

    The foam helps you get a better air seal to the bead of the tire so that it can get seated on the rim easier. I've done a lot of tire/wheel combos with a good floor pump (just to show that it can be done). The foam also helps keep the air in the tire if the bead pushes off the narrow bead shoulder while riding with low pressure. Rims with narrow shoulders tend to roll off and instantly go poof... and then you can't get it seated again without a compressor.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    People report all sorts of difficulty, I'm surprised you missed the thread.

    It took me longer than usual to get the tires off since they do seal well. I did one wrap of Zip tape and after 2 days with no Stans it's still holding air fine.
    Yep. I missed that thread. I should go read it before continuing to speculate... but isn't that what happens in these discussions anyway? Tires vary a huge amount wrt their bead circumference tolerances. Tape varies a lot in thickness and a lot of people are using multiple wraps of thick gorilla tape... I wonder if the super tight bead issue is a result of all of the above.

    I'm definitely not a Mulefut expert... I set up one set of them but the ones I set up using FattyStripper, foam rods and 4.6" ground controls fit really, really nice.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    Will order this tomorrow or on Monday. Question for SimonJ: do I need anything else for the stock Specialized Fatboy Sl 90mm rims? I just picked up a leftover 2015 Fatboy.
    Using a 24" QTube and the split tube method I have successfully mounted Ground Controls, Bud and Lou and Snowshoe XL on the SL 90 rims. I don't think you will need anything else.


    I'd rather be riding!

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Hi Larry,

    I did return your messages within 15 minutes from when you sent them on a Friday night. There is more to this story than just one picture. We had a lengthy conversation about the situation. When I said I'd replace the one strip... you said "no, its through both strips". OK, well that's quite clearly a big puncture event because the material is coiled up when mailed. I asked about the package and you said there was no damage to it at all. OK, now we have a mystery that would stump Dick Tracy...

    Like the other member on here pointed out... If it were just one puncture, you could've just put the puncture behind the metal in your rim and not at a cutout.
    The way that those strips are hand-cut, hand-coiled and hand-packed, in addition to 3M's quality control, guarantees that a strip could never go out the door with even one defect like that... much less 20 punctures.

    I asked USPS today if you could just write "RETURN TO SENDER" over your address and they said yes, even if the package was re-taped. When I asked you to do that, you clearly didn't want to do that. I'm glad you did go and try... but "RETURN TO SENDER" will still come back to me without a charge to you. IF the post office determines that the puncture was their fault, they will reimburse all mailing costs. IF they determine that its my fault, I'll get charged. Either way... its no cost to you.

    USPS said they will absolutely cover the damage as part of their Priority Mail insurance. I'm more concerned about how something like that can happen and then making changes to make sure it can't happen again... but I need the strips back to begin the process of tracking down the cause.

    I realize its frustrating... Trust me, as a volunteer, doing this project to support our trail grooming efforts... its pretty time-consuming. I've had a latex band ship with a small defect and that totally could've happened. I didn't inspect both sides of every band because the quality controls by the manufacturer was so high. I now inspect every band before shipping. The BlingStrips have always had 100% inspection simply by the nature of how they have to be cut to the proper size and then hand-coiled and hand-packaged.
    Yes, I can do what the other member said about what to do with the punctured strip. My point is, I received and paid for defective product and normal reaction for me as a customer.
    I already went to the post office and explained what they told me which is the other explanation they told you.
    I don't wanna waste more time and gas to go there again and explain what you said.
    Thanks anyway..

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    Yes, I can do what the other member said about what to do with the punctured strip. My point is, I received and paid for defective product and normal reaction for me as a customer.
    I already went to the post office and explained what they told me which is the other explanation they told you.
    I don't wanna waste more time and gas to go there again and explain what you said.
    Thanks anyway..
    Clearly you had a lot of discussions about this issue with the supplier...then you turned to move it to a public forum so now you have to deal with all of us and our opinions.

    I feel similar to the others. Use the rim strip and enjoy the new setup. Hide the puncture under a solid part of the rim. You could have been riding around tubeless already...

    The strip clearly has a puncture, it clearly didn't leave FS "factory" like that. So either it happened during shipping...or YOU did it. It looks conspicuously centered in the strip...almost like the exact location a valve stem would go! It looks like someone tried to push a valve stem through backwards. So unless Jim sent you a customer return...

    If you taped the box up the way it was delivered to you and wrote RTS over your address and put it wherever your mail gets delivered, they would have taken it and delivered it back to the sender. Done it plenty of times. There was no need for a trip to the post office, that just added complication.

    Jim seems to be more than reasonable with my experience with him. He seems to be truly trying to develop a product and procedure for a niche market. Look at the prices for this stuff. By the time he loses the transaction fees, there just isn't much profit in these things. I'm sure covering shipping back and forth, as well as the lost product would put this charitable effort firmly in the red for this order.

    ac

  62. #62
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    What diameter foam backer rod is needed? I totally missed ordering some with my strippers but can get it locally.

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    looks like a good product to me. I just ordered a set of the fatty strips and valve stems.

    I am going to set up my Jumbo Jim 4.8 tubeless on a set of Mulefut 80mm wheels. Already have a rim strip I like.

    I really like the idea of a solid item, rather than the seams of tape that could fail. Looking forward to the install.

  64. #64
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    Correct me if I'm wrong, but the fatty strip that's trimmed is a one time use?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  65. #65
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Burping

    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    I intentionally ran harder than I otherwise would, wanted to see if it would burp. Nothing.
    FYI, higher pressures make burping LESS likely. Burping is when the tire bead is pushed inwards, by the ground when cornering or similar. High pressures push the tire outward, so are less likely to burp.

    So, if you want to test burping, run your tire really soft and find some smooth pavement to really carve a turn on.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    Yes, I can do what the other member said about what to do with the punctured strip. My point is, I received and paid for defective product and normal reaction for me as a customer.
    I already went to the post office and explained what they told me which is the other explanation they told you.
    I don't wanna waste more time and gas to go there again and explain what you said.
    Thanks anyway..
    You seam like a peach to deal with! Shit happens, a whole in 3m reflective tape is probably the smallest shit ever though when considering bikes. Just recently I gotta wait a whole two weeks to ride my fatty cause shop sold me Reba dust wipers that don't fit, and now have order the Bluto specific spec. Also aren't you suppose to make a hole in the tape for valves anyways?

    I'll be ordering some Fatty Strippers when I finally get around to studding my snowshoes, don't want to be pulling those suckers off any more then I have to.

    I use to work in the post office part-time when I was in school, the only time they don't do an RTS if the person literally shows up with an open package. Its against the rules, all you gotta do is tape it up before you show up so the clerk can plead ignorance. As long as the person was courteous, and didn't ***** we would RTS anything.

  67. #67
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    Does he only carry one size ? I'd like them for 29+ wheels also

  68. #68
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    Install is pretty simple, but takes a delicate hand to get it smooth Around the rim after spraying the Adhesive on. I always find that the second one goes better than the first. Always the case usually.
    The second one I pulled the strip back and as I went to re wrap the bead and rims edge, I allowed the strip to naturally sit inside the contour of the bead lock. Instead of (as done on the first one) just wrapping in over the bead lock. I had a much easier time fully sealing the tire once installed this way. The front, which was done first, has been leaking a small bit. The rear, has lost none.

    Also, anyone here had to pull, and re install their tires after trimming the strip? One, I'm concerned about having to use levers to remove the tire and puncturing the strip. 2) will I be able to re use the strip as is and seal up well again and again? Or will I need to start over each time?


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  69. #69
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    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?

    Nice product, seems to fit the bill. I will definitely try some fattystripper when time to change tires. Currently on ghetto and working fine but I think this will save some weight. Integrated valve stem on ghetto is nice though.
    Some constructive criticism - don't you think the foam rod will just role over w the bead if the force is great enough to push the bead off the shelf. I understand it's purpose to help initially seat the tire but beyond that I doubt it will help the tire remain seated - only air pressure and /or a solid fixed ridge on the rim can do that. That's my thinking at least.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by funnyjr View Post
    Nice product, seems to fit the bill. I will definitely try some fattystripper when time to change tires. Currently on ghetto and working fine but I think this will save some weight. Integrated valve stem on ghetto is nice though.
    Some constructive criticism - don't you think the foam rod will just role over w the bead if the force is great enough to push the bead off the shelf. I understand it's purpose to help initially seat the tire but beyond that I doubt it will help the tire remain seated - only air pressure and /or a solid fixed ridge on the rim can do that. That's my thinking at least.
    It depends on your rim and tire, whether or not the foam backer is even needed. I did not need to do that and sat the bead immediately. I'm running Bud/Lou combo on Sunringle Mulefüt 80's.



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  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubinjs View Post
    It depends on your rim and tire, whether or not the foam backer is even needed. I did not need to do that and sat the bead immediately. I'm running Bud/Lou combo on Sunringle Mulefüt 80's.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well obviously...

    Your mule fat rim is designed to be tubeless compatible so essentially doesn't need further mods to get it to work .

    I'm referring to rims that need the foam/ rods/ tape build up mods to get tubeless to work.


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  72. #72
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    I have not been successful so far.
    Clownshoes and Dillinger 5 tires.
    I tried using foam backer rod (I used 3/8") and it just squished up between the tire and the sidewall of the rim, keeping the tire bead from seating fully against the rim.
    Aired up easily though.

    I wondered if thinner foam was maybe the solution, so I cut my foam rod in half, and installed one half, with the flat(cut) side down on the rim. I left just enough of a gap to fit the tire bead between the foam and the rim.
    Now it won't air up. The tire is very loose on the rim(easily 1/4" gap) so even using a strap it won't air up.

    So:
    - what size foam rod with Clownshoes?
    -where should the foam be placed? How close to the rim?

    Any other tips?

  73. #73
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    Well, after I wrote this I gave it one more shot trying to inflate it with the half round foam rods in there, and it went!
    Then I checked my mailbox and there was a package from Fattystripper with my corrected blingstrips (I had ordered a mismatched pair, but accidentally got a matched pair) and A surprise pair f foam rods! Thank you very much!
    The rods from Fattystripper are also close to 3/8" but a hair smaller than mine.

  74. #74
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    Hi Simons,

    Just a note that my arrived today and the USPS envelope had two good size holes in it. I did a quick look and miraculously both valve stems were still in the package. I didnt check anything else closely yet. It would appear that they leave you in good shape and the Post Office is having their way with your packages<g>

    Bob
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  75. #75
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    My initial experience with the fatty strippers is positive, it was as easy as setting up a stans rimstrip on a normal rim. "Initially" because I set them up 2 nights ago and haven't had a chance to ride yet, but I've checked them a couple times and they're still solid. I haven't put any sealant in yet. I have a set of unholy rolling darryls and a brand new pair of studded snowshoe xl's. One of the tires aired up with a floor pump, the other was a little more deformed from the packaging and needed a quick burst with a compressor. I reused the existing nylon strip over the spoke holes, I used no foam and a light soaping of the beads. I sprayed the bead area under the strip as per their video with spray adhesive with the intention of attempting to swap tires when spring comes without having to replace the strips, we'll see how well that works.
    The xl's are tubeless ready, and judging by how much effort it took to break the beads on the nates that came off (standing on the tire), I'm debating trying to run without stans. Opinions?
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  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I'm debating trying to run without stans. Opinions?
    This is silly. All it takes is one ____ to poke the teeniest hole that you'll never find, forcing you to either keep pumping it up or to stick in a tube. Or, you can run a small amount of sealant and it will find/fix that hole, and the next, and the next, without you ever knowing they were there.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    The xl's are tubeless ready, and judging by how much effort it took to break the beads on the nates that came off (standing on the tire), I'm debating trying to run without stans. Opinions?
    Perhaps you will have better luck than me, but I had difficulty getting my Snowshoe XL's/Fattystripper to completely seal even with Stans. With the recommended 2oz, both leaked air through the bead area, despite shaking and riding. I added 2 more ounces per tire and after some more inflating, shaking and riding, they finally appear to be sealed. My buddy had similar issues using the vacuum seal bag method, so I'm guessing it is the Snowshoe XL causing the issue and not the FattyStrippers.
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  78. #78
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    Why run without Stans? Do you want to have a non-self sealing tubeless tire?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  79. #79
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    I received my kit yesterday and all is well. No holes in my envelope, but I can see how it happens to some. The envelope is probably not designed for shipping this stuff.

    I'd suggest hitting people up for a couple of extra $$'s for a flat rate cardboard box, or at least use a padded bubble wrap mailer.

  80. #80
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    Mine came in a food saver bag which I assume is what you guys got as well. Thought it was a pretty clever shipping bag for soft items. USPS is usually pretty great about soft mailers when you don't put hard items inside otherwise they have a tendency to poke/rub from the inside out and will eat your profits as you replace damaged shipments. I had to go with boxes only for my ebay store for precisely this reason. At this size they are cheap @<$.50/box right on ebay.

  81. #81
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    Mine came USPS stuffed in a single layer paper envelope that seemed more appropriate for mailing documents than actual hard goods. But hey, it worked, and I will install the kit this weekend

  82. #82
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    Just curious how long it took USPS to deliver once paypal shows shipped. Mine shipped on Monday was hoping to get this week, but no luck.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Why run without Stans? Do you want to have a non-self sealing tubeless tire?
    Yeah you're right, it was a silly thought.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  84. #84
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    I thought I could jump a creek today since I had the speed. I was wrong. The rear wheel caught a rock completely wrong and I thought I damaged the new wheel. Upon inspection just on the other side, I didn't see a dent, but I did see where the Stans was bubbling, sealing the bead. If I hadn't had it in there I'd have had to walk the mile or so out of the woods. I use 3 oz which adds very little weight. It's worth it.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  85. #85
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    Installed the Fatty Stripper this weekend.

    I ordered the Fatty Stripper and Valves on Sunday, package arrived the following Friday. Contents were packed in a vacuum seal envelope. Appeared well packed to me.

    Decided to install on Sunday. Install was on a set of Mulefut 80mm hoops with 4.8 Jumbo Jim tires. I left the factory rim strip in place. I wiped the rim clean and placed the fatty strip on the tire. No need to get it perfect yet, I just stretched it on and made the sure valve hold was in the proper spot. I then worked the fatty stripper around and centered it up on the wheel. I decided to try the spray elmers method. I would pull back a section about 8" long on one half of the wheel. I sprayed the glue the folded the fatty back. I worked my way all the way around the wheel and then did the other half. When I was done the glue was still tacky, so I could pull up on the strip and recenter it and pull all the wrinkles out. Was really easy.

    I let the glue set a bit while I did the same to the other tire. I then installed the valves. I am not sure which valves he uses, but they are nice valves. The valves are threaded all the way to the rubber grommet. He also includes a slightly oversized plastic washer to put between the rim and valve locknut. This helps thread the lock nut on without running into the rubber grommet. This ensures a good seal.

    I lubed up the bead with Uncle ***** Beadslip (Wow, MTBR blocked out the word, Lets call it Uncle Richard's Beadslip) then placed the tire on the wheel. I did not use any levers. I cringed a bit when I pushed the tire over the latex strip, but those things are pretty strong, no harm done.

    After the tire was on the wheel I pulled the core and gave the tire a blast of air. Tire made a good pop and the bead was set, I would say it took less than 12psi of air to get the tires to seat. I replaced the core and aired it up to 14psi and let it sit while I did the other.

    The other tire mounted just as easily. When I was done both tires were holding air just fine. At this point I pulled the core again and added sealant. I added 5oz of Serfas Tire Medic sealant to each tire. Aired both tires back up to about 14psi and gave them a good shake.

    Next step was to cut off the extra latex on the outside of the wheel. I used a box cutter with a fresh blade. I pulled the latex tight and cut it right at the rim line with the tip of the blade just touching the tire. This was very easy to do. I can see a bit of a red line in the bead if I look at it just right. It is very minor and barely noticeable.

    I rode my bike into work with the new Tubeless today and zero pressure has been lost, I have also not seen and sealant seaping out. This was a very easy and fool proof install.

    I would gladly buy this product again. Very satisfied customer.

  86. #86
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    I'm doing mine tomorrow, but not using glue, I don't see the point in it?

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by db3266 View Post
    I'm doing mine tomorrow, but not using glue, I don't see the point in it?
    Point is to be able to re-use them.

    Set up a pair on a Fatboy the other day super easy.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by claimed4all View Post
    Installed the Fatty Stripper this weekend. Install was on a set of Mulefut 80mm hoops with 4.8 Jumbo Jim tires.
    MuleFut rims are tubeless ready. You don't need Fatty Strippers to run them tubeless.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    MuleFut rims are tubeless ready. You don't need Fatty Strippers to run them tubeless.
    Mulefut are tubeless ready, but I still have to cover the spoke holes and the machine holes at the edge of the bead shelf. I did not want to use tape as it has seams. I wanted a seamless install that was light, so Fatty Stripper was the answer.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIke N Gear View Post
    Point is to be able to re-use them.

    Set up a pair on a Fatboy the other day super easy.
    Ok thanks.

    Setting mine up on DT Swiss BR710's. I trial fitted the tyres over the rims today, the GC's are much tighter on the rim than on the standard Spesh rims. So tight, that I think I will be able to inflate with a floor pump!

    When I change tyres, I'll use a new set of strippers, so not using glue.

  91. #91
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    I used the fattystrippers on my wife's Fatboy SE. I had to spray soapy water and use a strap around the tire to seat the bead. I used a floor pump to seat the bead once I had the strap around the tire. 3 oz of Stan's with spinning and shaking did not seal the tires overnight. I put 3 more oz of Stan's in and laid the tires/wheels on their sides with a bucket to distribute the Stan's along the sidewalls. Hopefully, this will get er done. 3 oz or less in a 4.6" tire does not seem like much sealant to me. 3oz is recommended for a standard 29er tire. I can't imagine how 3oz is going to give you any flat protection in a 4.6" tire.

  92. #92
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    Did a Framed Wolftrax wheels yesterday with a foam backer, I'm not sure the foam backer was necessary. Went together really quickly and inflated so awesomely. We couldn't get the second wheels bead between the foam and rim and we didn't have petroleum jelly with us (at work). we sprayed on some soapy water and decided to just push on it while adding air. Boom! Right on with just a slight leak that was remedied with a little more air. Added some Orange seal subzero, inflated and it was good. Incredibly easy. I am not sure the foam backer was even necessary.

  93. #93
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    Don't use latex and petroleum jelly - you'll get pregnant. Seriously, the two don't play well together.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Don't use latex and petroleum jelly - you'll get pregnant. Seriously, the two don't play well together.
    Yeah there seems to be another industry that says those are a bad combo. But, thanks to them, you can get a nice lubricant at the drugstore that is guaranteed safe with latex.

  95. #95
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    Blingstrips are delicate

    I tried to hang up my bike today in the garage. Missed a bit and instead of the rim being all the way inside the hook the end of the hook slipped into a cutout. After some cursing I got it off and sure enough, the blingstrip is torn and the latex strip was bulging out a tiny bit.
    This was with a nice 3/8" wide, rubber covered hook with a ball end, nothing sharp or pointy.

    I think the issue is that hey are so stiff,the don't just deform around a pressure point.

    So, the moral of the story is that you might want to add extra protection to the blingstrip if you are likely to be in remote areas and/or doing a lot of bushwhacking.

  96. #96
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    Wow all this talk starting w/ title of this thread, lubricants, latex, pregnancy and now needing an extra layer of protection. I better start using privacy mode on my browser.


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  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by claimed4all View Post
    Mulefut are tubeless ready, but I still have to cover the spoke holes and the machine holes at the edge of the bead shelf. I did not want to use tape as it has seams. I wanted a seamless install that was light, so Fatty Stripper was the answer.
    I felt the exact same! I set my Mulefut 80's up the same way.


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  98. #98
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    Easy install great service

    Installed two days ago on my Farley 7 with stock mulefuts. Breaking the bead on the mulefuts was the hardest part of the process. Put 40 cc Stans in front. Running the rear without sealant just to see if it will keep the air. I am pleased with how easy this process is. I aired up the tires with a floor pump without any drama. I'll put 30ccs Stans in the rear after xmass

  99. #99
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    My Nates on Mulefüts held air fine without Stans. I added 3 oz for protection anyway. Can't go out without some protection, otherwise bad things can happen.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  100. #100
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    This thread needs a lot more pics!

  101. #101
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    Pic. Nothing fancy. Just shows how the Fatty Stripper lays on the tire and then the edge after I mounted my tire, but before I aired it up.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_8788.jpg

  102. #102
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    @claimed4all

    Are you running a rim strip under the FS?

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehdually View Post
    @claimed4all

    Are you running a rim strip under the FS?
    Yes, you have to run a rim strip. The latex would probably blow out at the cutouts without a rim strip. I used the rim strips that came on my wheelset.

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by claimed4all View Post
    Yes, you have to run a rim strip. The latex would probably blow out at the cutouts without a rim strip. I used the rim strips that came on my wheelset.
    Okay, it just looked like it was absent in the picture you attached!

  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjaard View Post
    Yeah there seems to be another industry that says those are a bad combo. But, thanks to them, you can get a nice lubricant at the drugstore that is guaranteed safe with latex.
    Petroleum jelly breaks down rubber, causing it to swell then break apart like over cooked pasta. KY jelly or plumbers grease from the hardware store is what plumbers use.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  106. #106
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    Plumbers grease is silicone grease, so no petroleum. You can get a decent size tube of it as something called Super Lube. It's a nice lightweight grease.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  107. #107
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    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg  


  108. #108
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    I just got these but have not installed them yet. I hope to this weekend. Do stock Ground Control tires on Fatboys come with folding GCs? I'll find out soon enough but if wire bead, I'll have to figure out the straps.

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    I just got these but have not installed them yet. I hope to this weekend. Do stock Ground Control tires on Fatboys come with folding GCs? I'll find out soon enough but if wire bead, I'll have to figure out the straps.
    The standard Fatboy has a folding tire. Only the SE comes with the wire bead tire. I got one of the early SEs last year and it came with folding tires. About a month later, when my wife's bike came in, it had the wire bead. The wire bead tire is labeled Ground Control "Sport" instead of "Control" on the casing.

  110. #110
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    FYI: if changing tires have some spares or tubeless alternatives available.

    I swapped out tires on my FattyStripper equipped Fatboy yesterday and found out that reusual is very difficult. The Fattystrippers do an excellent job sealing, but also do a excellent job sticking to the rim, despite using spray adhesive. I ended up lifting it in enough spots that it would have been hard to reuse and reseal. Not having any spares on hand I ended up switching to the vacuum seal bag method and will likely be running that for awhile as it is easier to reuse.
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    I've been loving the bling strips as well- really light up the bike!
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg

    I've been using an exercise band or bungee cord as an alternative to a ratchet strap. You can knot it and loop it around the tire, but it stretches, so you don't have to worry about damage caused by rapid inflation if you can't get it released fast enough.
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  112. #112
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    I set mine up up yesterday and the front went well, but the rear was a failure


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  113. #113
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    Thanks Chinman. I have the Controls.

    I think I will convert to tubeless since the tire/tube combo was SO heavy on climbs. I'll order an extra set in case I need it when switching tires.

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    FYI: if changing tires have some spares or tubeless alternatives available.

    I swapped out tires on my FattyStripper equipped Fatboy yesterday and found out that reusual is very difficult. The Fattystrippers do an excellent job sealing, but also do a excellent job sticking to the rim, despite using spray adhesive. I ended up lifting it in enough spots that it would have been hard to reuse and reseal. Not having any spares on hand I ended up switching to the vacuum seal bag method and will likely be running that for awhile as it is easier to reuse.
    I figured the band might be a consumable. I didn't glue mine, so we'll see how it goes. In the mid-Atlantic I don't see any snow on the horizon. I prefer 24" Q-tubes when having to switch back and forth between studded and non-studded tires. I probably should just get a spare set o' hoops.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    I set mine up up yesterday and the front went well, but the rear was a failure


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    We're gonna need more details!

  116. #116
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    Spray soapy water till you figure out where it is leaking at the valve or bead edge. You may need more sealant and shaking then lay the wheel on a bucket to get the sealant to the edge. Flip the wheel over on the bucket after shaking, bouncing, etc. After a couple of these gyrations it should seal up.

  117. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    We're gonna need more details!
    I set both up on Wednesday night. I thought it went well, very little weeping of Stans and they were both holding air. Did the Stans Rock and roll shake for quite some time then let them sit overnight. The rear was harder to get aired up but once it took all appeared to be fine.
    The next morning both were flat, no biggie I thought, I aired them both up again easily as the beads were still set. Did the shake and roll again but the rear was weeping a lot around the bead. I gave the rear more air pressure to make sure the bead was set and the weeping slowed a lot.
    Let them sit for an hour and they still looked good and I wanted to go for a ride! So I trimmed the excess with a sharp razor knife from the front and moved to the rear.
    As I'm pulling the rubber tight to trim the excess on the rear, I'm almost done and all the sudden I get a loud hiss and rush of air from the bead area I just trimmed! I thought WTF? Could I have sliced the tire? No, I was applying very gentle pressure.
    Upon further inspection I see the tire is fine, the latex is where it is supposed to be, but air is screaming out and Stans is bubbling but can't seal it.
    I try more air pressure with the compressor thinking the bead must not be set, but nothing works.
    After another half hour with no luck I strip everything off the rear, throw a tube in and go for a ride.
    The front is still holding air fine. Not sure what I messed up on the rear?


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  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    Not sure what I messed up on the rear?
    Don't know if it helps in your case, but I find a little cup of Stan's and a brush is a great way to get a super strong bead setup. Brush a very liberal and messy amount of Stan's around the bead area, and it works as bead lube and sealant. The problem with any kind of silicone grease is that it will help the tires slip at low pressures. Sealant sets up nicely to keep the tire in place, as well as to stop a leak while mounting. Don't rinse or wipe off the excess for a few days.

    At least I find this works on the DH tires and Jeep tires I have mounted (different sealant in the Jeep, same idea).

  119. #119
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    Starting to get this done. I ordered the bling strips and really want to use them but they seem like stiff vinyl, unlike the softer vinyl (plus velcro) Specialized uses. The Specialized one moulds around the nailhead like things on the inside of the rim but the bling strips don't seem like they do. I wish they were more like the Specialized white (ugly) strips. It seems like a a hassle and I'm not sure the adhesive will hold long-term. It feels like wrapping a stiff piece of paper around the rim.

  120. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Plumbers grease is silicone grease, so no petroleum. You can get a decent size tube of it as something called Super Lube. It's a nice lightweight grease.
    I love that stuff for bearings, but it is most definitely not silicone based--has mineral oil.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...utf-8&oe=utf-8

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zowie View Post
    I love that stuff for bearings, but it is most definitely not silicone based--has mineral oil.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...utf-8&oe=utf-8
    There's more than one Super Lube product.

    Link

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by JesusJuice View Post
    There's more than one Super Lube product.

    Link
    FWIW, they have over twenty products--just pointing out places could have "Super Lube" but not the silicone based stuff...
    http://www.super-lube.com/english-catalog-ezp-165.html

  123. #123
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    I went with the Specialized stock rim strips (just left those on..less hassle) and the Fatty Strippers. I actually inflated/seated the front tire with a floor pump. I had to use a compressor (well, I had to take it to a shop for that...I have no presto adapter) with the rear tire. Both seated well. Orange Seal- 2 oz per tire. I have left them at 5 PSI and they seem to be holding air for the past two days. The casing on the 4.6 Ground Control seems to be very airtight to begin with. So far, the fatty Stripper seems to be the best solution and my local shop has started to use them too. I did cut the strip close to the bead so I imagine I cannot reuse them and should keep an extra Fatty Stripper set on hand for when I switch tires.

  124. #124
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    FYI for Jim, maybe a tutorial could help others with the issue I had ordering yesterday.

    My credit card address is not the same as where I ship things. (to my work) It would not allow me to do it. Kept saying "your ship to zipcode does not match the zip code you entered to estimate shipping". or something like that.

    Brought me back to the re enter credit card info three different times before I gave up and sent them to my house.
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  125. #125
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    Are the fatty stripped proving better than gorilla tape?

    When people trim them, do you trim so the strip sits in the bead channel, or just short of it?

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  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Are the fatty stripped proving better than gorilla tape?

    When people trim them, do you trim so the strip sits in the bead channel, or just short of it?
    My understanding is that you trim AFTER the tire is installed so the strip remains under the bead.

  127. #127
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    Due to that, I see them as a one-time-use. I just leave the tape in place unless I'm changing the rim strip. No muss, no fuss and it makes tire changes a snap.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Due to that, I see them as a one-time-use. I just leave the tape in place unless I'm changing the rim strip. No muss, no fuss and it makes tire changes a snap.
    I think you may be right and I will be changing tires at least twice per year but I ordered them anyway.

    My logic is: I can get a new rim strip, (colored, narrower and lighter than stock) valve cores, the sealant sauce and the one time use? latex band in one order and for not much more than a single use roll of the Sunringle tape.

    If I wreck the latex band when I change tires next I'll buy a roll of Zip tape and I'll be good.
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  129. #129
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    I'll probably end up doing the sill foam split tube method on my fat bike this spring, but for now, crazy thought process time.

    Schwable procore - shove a tire inside a tire.

    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I'll probably end up doing the sill foam split tube method on my fat bike this spring, but for now, crazy thought process time.

    Schwable procore - shove a tire inside a tire.

    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    I don't get your logic at all. Do you mind clarifying?


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    I think he is saying to use two valve stems but one tube. Mount the tire and seat using the tube, then deflate the tube and air up tubeless using the other stem.

    Seems like a lot of hassle for marginal benefit.
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  132. #132
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    The schwable procore system is basically a tire inside a tire to prevent pinchflat and rimstrikes at low pressure. the inner tire is at a higher pressure which prevents the pinchflats, while the outer tire is at a lower pressure for traction.

    The intent of the fatty stripper is to help hold the fatbike tire's beads out to the side so it can seat easier. Using a regular/procore tire inside a fat tire would also push the fatbike tire bead out to the side and basically lock it there. Kind of a reverse beadlock where you are pushing on the bead from the inside instead of using a bolted down ring on the outside. Because most normal 26" tires can't seat properly on wide rims, it probably wouldn't work on a 100mm rim, but might work on a 80mm wide rim. Not sure how well the inner tire bead would seat against the inside of the fat tire, but it shouldn't be much different than using a hookless rim.

    Along with the procore concept, it'll also prevent rimstrikes when you have the fatbike tire down at 2 psi.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  133. #133
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    Ok - but if a fat bike tire is not already heavy enough wouldn't adding another tire inside a tire be rather unreasonable.


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  134. #134
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    installed fatty stripper on my rear fatboy today( still running split tube up front).. very minor complaint, the red color.. circumsizing the excess flap produced a couple of the red stripper left between tire and rim on some areas.. no biggie but it would be nice if stripper was black (insert joke here).. mind you i was pulling on the excess flap gently and slicing it with a sharp razor as close to the rim as i can get.. again no biggie, nobody will see it anyway when you are riding..

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    i see you have the bud upfront.. any problems with tire clearance on the fork arch? my bnew bud knobs hits the arch on a certain part of the tire..

  136. #136
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    I've had the fatty strippers in for about 3 weeks now, with stan's they're holding air better than my other tubeless setups, despite (regrettably) only 2 rides on them so far.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  137. #137
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    Any one have any decent pics of the Stealth Strips? I'd like to see what they look like.

  138. #138
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    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    If you use a razor blade, you can get pretty close. It is still noticeable if you go looking for it. My solution is to get some dirt on mud on it. Problem solved by just riding

  140. #140
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    Could probably run a black sharpie marker around the edge if I really wanted to get rid of it. We'll see what happens when I install.

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    Pull gently because the latex will break from your cut.. But if you don't pull enough, red latex will show.. That's my only gripe, it doesn't come in black... But like i said nobody notices it when you ride anyway.. Or like what chinman said.. Ride it on mud.. Problem solved..

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    If you want to make sure that you can't see the latex band... pull a little harder and cut closer with the razor blade. The latex will retract after its cut due to its elongation prior to cutting.

  143. #143
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    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.

  144. #144
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    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-staun_ii_beadlock_close.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    The schwable procore system is basically a tire inside a tire to prevent pinchflat and rimstrikes at low pressure. the inner tire is at a higher pressure which prevents the pinchflats, while the outer tire is at a lower pressure for traction.

    The intent of the fatty stripper is to help hold the fatbike tire's beads out to the side so it can seat easier. Using a regular/procore tire inside a fat tire would also push the fatbike tire bead out to the side and basically lock it there. Kind of a reverse beadlock where you are pushing on the bead from the inside instead of using a bolted down ring on the outside. Because most normal 26" tires can't seat properly on wide rims, it probably wouldn't work on a 100mm rim, but might work on a 80mm wide rim. Not sure how well the inner tire bead would seat against the inside of the fat tire, but it shouldn't be much different than using a hookless rim.

    Along with the procore concept, it'll also prevent rimstrikes when you have the fatbike tire down at 2 psi.
    The Procore is like what the OHV guys have been doing for a minute with Staun. and yes two valve stems.
    ptarmigan hardcore

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.
    Black would have only been slightly better. My split tubes flopping out between the tire and rim certainly don't look attractive.

    ac

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.
    This did not work for me! Setup tires for two days with uncut and unglued strips, removed tires and the latex was clearly damaged where the bead hits. The latex was stretched/deformed and would rip if any pressure applied. Tried to setup tires again and the latex was to fragile to cover the rim. Looks like Im out of luck and going to split tube for the ease of being able to change tires when needed.

  147. #147
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    Thought I would give a follow up review to my original post on page 1 on 12/8. I have about 250 miles or so on the Fattystripper install, and I have ridden the pi$$ out of the bike in an unabashed effort to get the beads to unseat or the tires to burp, I have had the Panaracer FBN's as low as 3 psi over hard chunky techy sections, and they have held without complaint. No issues at all. Have to say I'm very impressed. With the FBN's, kinda less so. They have held up well but both tires have a very large wobble. It only affects me if I look down at them while riding (because then I get pissed off). *Ok, rant mode off* Highly recommend the FS system, though.

  148. #148
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    Will the Fatty Stripper "work" on my Motobecane Sturgis Bullet with Weinmann HL80 rims and Snowshoe tires? I'd like to drop some rotating weight. Thanks in advance for your input.

  149. #149
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    So this seems like a lot of work to set up especially since it seems when you change tires you probably have to redo it. Is it any more involved than any other fatty tubeless setup? Also anyone try these with the new Surly My Other Brother Daryl rims with a 27 tpi Nate?

    "Buy the ticket. Take the ride." -Hunter S. Thompson
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  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    Thought I would give a follow up review to my original post on page 1 on 12/8. I have about 250 miles or so on the Fattystripper install, and I have ridden the pi$$ out of the bike in an unabashed effort to get the beads to unseat or the tires to burp, I have had the Panaracer FBN's as low as 3 psi over hard chunky techy sections, and they have held without complaint. No issues at all. Have to say I'm very impressed. With the FBN's, kinda less so. They have held up well but both tires have a very large wobble. It only affects me if I look down at them while riding (because then I get pissed off). *Ok, rant mode off* Highly recommend the FS system, though.
    I agree on the Fat B Nimble tires. They are really hard to use tubeless & I think there are way better options for less money.

    I strongly recommend the just released & currently available juggernaut pro 4.5 tires. $60 ea and silly light & fast.
    George at BrokenSpokeBikes.com and Nick at mojowheels.com had them in Stock yesterday. These tires are a treat for your bike's good behavior.

    Jim

  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyoming Shooter View Post
    Will the Fatty Stripper "work" on my Motobecane Sturgis Bullet with Weinmann HL80 rims and Snowshoe tires? I'd like to drop some rotating weight. Thanks in advance for your input.
    Yes. Over 50 Weimann 80 rims have ghin tubeless with FattyStripper.com rimstrips. Not one issue has been reported. The key to making it easy is the foam rods under the latex band. That fixes the lack of a bread shoulder on those non-tubeless rims.

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by captnpenguin View Post
    So this seems like a lot of work to set up especially since it seems when you change tires you probably have to redo it. Is it any more involved than any other fatty tubeless setup? Also anyone try these with the new Surly My Other Brother Daryl rims with a 27 tpi Nate?

    "Buy the ticket. Take the ride." -Hunter S. Thompson
    "Life is too important to be taken seriously." -Oscar Wilde
    "Single speeds should come in cans" -Me
    MyOtherBro rims are good tubeless rims.... that said, 27 tpi Nates suck. They are hard to get seated and are burp prone. Yes you can do it with FattyStripper.com rimstrips, but if your bike can run the 4.5 Juggernaut Pro tires @ $60 ea, you shouldn't hesitate to do that. Tubeless conversion & juggernaut pro tires will literally take 5 lbs out of your wheels for $140 delivered... and drop 25W+ of rolling resistance. You won't recognize your bike after a conversion like that. You can always sell your Nates to someone who doesn't care about performance or ride feel to get this conversion under $100.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    I think you may be right and I will be changing tires at least twice per year but I ordered them anyway.

    My logic is: I can get a new rim strip, (colored, narrower and lighter than stock) valve cores, the sealant sauce and the one time use? latex band in one order and for not much more than a single use roll of the Sunringle tape.

    If I wreck the latex band when I change tires next I'll buy a roll of Zip tape and I'll be good.
    Take the additional 10 min & do the optional Elmers Spray Glue of the rimstrip to the rim. I know it doesn't seem like it'll work, but after a month or so, that glue will hold the latex reasonably well. Use the back end of a ball point pen and run it between the tire & the latex before trying to remove the tire. It works & you can remove the tire without changing the rimstrip.

    That said, I prefer to leave the rimstrip bonded with the tire & use another set of valves & rimstrips. I remove the tire, rimstrip & valve like a tubular system & keep as an intact, sealed system. FattyStripper & Valves cost $27... my time is worth more.

  154. #154
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    Great thread

  155. #155
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    Long time lurker, first time poster. Just had to join up & throw in my 2 cents on these Fattystrippers. These turned my Fatboy into a new bike! Super easy to install, almost foolproof. No, I don't work for them, just one of the best purchases and improvements I've made in a while. Can really feel the weight loss! Tires feel more planted, even with the same pressure. Only have an ounce of Stans in each and they're holding fine! Never could get the Gorilla tape to seal.

  156. #156
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    I have a question: my friend has been trying to run tubeless for a while now but somehow he always ends up burping his rear tire. 45North Dunderbeist on Mulefut 80 rim. He weighs about 200lbs. I was wondering if the FattyStripper, non-glued would seal with the side of the tire so that if the tire would burp, it would still hold air because of the possible seal with the FattyStripper?

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz View Post
    I have a question: my friend has been trying to run tubeless for a while now but somehow he always ends up burping his rear tire. 45North Dunderbeist on Mulefut 80 rim. He weighs about 200lbs. I was wondering if the FattyStripper, non-glued would seal with the side of the tire so that if the tire would burp, it would still hold air because of the possible seal with the FattyStripper?
    Strange that this is the case. Most reports is that ppl are having the toughest time breaking the bead off the Mulefut 80's. Has your friend tried to reseat the bead .. I would try that first.


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  158. #158
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    I know it's strange... I personally tubeless'ed his wheels twice. I've doing this for years... Bead was properly seated every time. I can vouch for that. I haven't figured it out yet...

  159. #159
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    Need some opinions and advice. I just bought a set of Fattystrips and plan to install them in the next couple of days including a set of 3M bling strips. My wheel / tire setup is Bud / Lou on DT Swiss BR2250 rims. Right now I am using the original DT Swiss black rim strips with tubes. I have been reading this thread for a while and have seen the youtube videos and I am quite comfortable with the tubeless setup on my 29er and my Crossbike. However, I have never used Fattystrips before and my objectives are two-fold:

    1) Install the 3M bling and Fattystrips seamlessly and ensure 99% air lock efficiency.
    2) Come summer, replace the Bud/Lou with summer tires but keep the FS in place.

    So based on the above objectives, here are my questions:

    1) Any tips on the best way to install the FS on Bud / Lous on DT Swiss fatty rims?

    2) Can I use regular Elmer's to glue the FS to internal side of the rims or should I look for Elmer's spray glue?

    3) After gluing the FS to the rim sides, can I just cut the extra flap completely, or should I still leave the flap hanging on the side before putting on the tire?

    4) What is the better option for question #3, with the objective of preserving the FS for me to be able to change the Bud/Lou for a summer tire.

    5) If cut the flap only after installing the tire, would removing the tire effectively destroy the remaining hanging flap?


    All answers (detailed or brief) would be highly appreciated.

    Thanks again.

    Paul

  160. #160
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    2) Can I use regular Elmer's to glue the FS to internal side of the rims or should I look for Elmer's spray glue? <<< Like white squeezy glue? No. Use spray adhesive. Jim recommends Elmer's brand but I used Super 77 (IMO a bit stickier), and the bands stuck tight. I haven't removed a tire yet but I have a feeling that the bands will stat put when I do.

    3) After gluing the FS to the rim sides, can I just cut the extra flap completely, or should I still leave the flap hanging on the side before putting on the tire? <<< Leave the flaps intact until the tire is mounted and seated. Trimming is the final step.

    4) What is the better option for question #3, with the objective of preserving the FS for me to be able to change the Bud/Lou for a summer tire. <<<Use a good amount of spray adhesive and you should be fine.

    5) If cut the flap only after installing the tire, would removing the tire effectively destroy the remaining hanging flap? <<< ?? You're cutting the flap off. No flap left. Use adhesive and the band that's inside the bead should stay put.

    Hope this helps. It's really super easy, don't sweat it.

  161. #161
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    Thanks Balt,

    Now I have to look for Elmer's spray. Isn't that kind of messy to use? I hope my local Staples have it.

  162. #162
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    I didn't use glue but really don't know if one way is better or not. For some reason, I did not think those thin strips would hold up to being glued down and would rip anyway. I will likely change tires so will see if they can be reused. I'm planning on not being able to but will try. I will not be using the bike except on snow so I'll probably go to a slightly more aggressive tire than the Ground Controls...especially in front.

  163. #163
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    Is it really necessary to use Elmer's glue spray. This thing is difficult to source! Not available in Home Depot, or Staples, or any of my local hardware stores. Jeesshhh.

  164. #164
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    Not necessary in my case. It is easy without it and less of a mess. If the Fatty Stripper were a bit thicker, I may have used it.

  165. #165
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    Would this stretch to fit a 29+ wheel? I have some on the way that I have heard are difficult to set up tubeless. I am wondering if this would stretch and work on a 29"x 47mm wide rim?

  166. #166
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    So I worked on my wheels last night to make them tubeless using the FattyStripper materials. I haven't finished it yet because I am still waiting for my Elmer's glue spray, I have made a few observations:

    - The 3M Bling strips look great. The reflective material (comes out in pictures with flash) will provide some safety features for those commuting at night. The red color perfectly matches some red parts. :>)

    - The Bling strips have to be trimmed to fit the "inner well" of the rim. However, I had to be careful because if I cut it too narrow, the edges will show in the rim cut-outs. If I don't cut it narrow enough, they will sit too high in the well allowing dirt to come in between the strips and the rims.

    - To further hold the Bling strips in place, I was thinking of adding a layer of gorilla tape in the middle. Not for sealing purposes (that will be done by the FattyStrip) but just to secure the Bling strips in place. The weight penalty of that gorilla tape is irrelevant.

    - The latex FattyStripper seems quite flimsy and delicate but extremely light. As I see it, this is the weight weenie's alternative to the ghetto split tube method. I don't know which was is better (FS or Split tube) but since it is essentially priced like an inner tube the choice between the FS or the ST is essentially for weight reasons.

    - I was tempted to install the front tire without the glue and the rear tire with glue to see which one will last longer. Maybe that is what I will do tonight when I get the glue.

    More observations to come ....

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Is it really necessary to use Elmer's glue spray. This thing is difficult to source! Not available in Home Depot, or Staples, or any of my local hardware stores. Jeesshhh.
    You can really use any sort of spray adhesive. I know that you ordered Elmer's spray, but I used Super 77, as I had some of that laying around. I also know Home Depot makes a brand called HDX in an orange and white bottle that should work fine as well.

  168. #168
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    I did recently change tires after installing the fattystrippers. One wheel I did not use the spray adhesive and the fattystrippers and tire and valve came off intact. Pretty cool! The Stans effectively glued the latex strip to the bead. This is shown on the fattystripper website. You might be able to reuse the setup, but I didn't try. On the other wheel, I did spray some adhesive down, before becoming frustrated with the the latex band sticking to itself and to me. Where I did get the adhesive down, the strip did adhere to the rim, when I removed the tire. There is no need to spray adhesive unless you want to reuse the strip, which will still take some care when removing the tire. Also, the bling strips have their own adhesive, you just need to peel back a few inches to get the strip to stay in place. No need for duct tape. Check out the install instructions and videos on the fattystripper website, the instructions are very well done. I'm going to be using toobs during the winter, because I swap tires a lot, but for summer, I will definitely be putting these back in.

  169. #169
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    Update...

    So I was able to get Elmer's glue spray from an Ace Hardware store nearby. It was the last can they had. Prepared the wheel and aligned the FS dead smack center on the rim. Folded the each side as per the instructions sprayed each side first (I saw the video on youtube. FYI) then I and properly rolled the FS back over the rim edges. The glue was tacky but if you are careful, the FS easily settles into place without a problem.

    I uut Petroleum Jelly on the FS and had to hide in the bathroom so my wife does not see that I was using her Vaseline. (I need to get her a replacement after I dipped my dirty fingers into this one.)

    Put on the Surly Bud and was surprised how easily this tire went into the rim. I don't recall if it was this easy when I used tubes on this a few months ago. The tire now sat loosely on the rim bed, on top of the FS. How the heck will this thing inflate when it was sooooo lose on the rim? Oh well, gotta try it. Pulled out the Bontrager Flash Charger pump and pumped away. For those unfamiliar with the Bonty Flash Charger pump, it is a good alternative to a compressor (which I do not have) and it has successfully inflated many 29er tubeless tires for me.

    Well in this case, it did not work. The air just went all out the side. Tried with a large canister. Same thing. Sh...t! I put back the inner tube, pumped it up to help seal one side with the intention to just pop the other side and remove the tube. Unfortunately, since the FS was still draped over the rim side, the bead did not lock into place. After I deflated the tube, the tire just sagged back into the center channel, as floppy and loose as before.

    So I ended up ordering the foam strips and will have to wait until next week for the strips to arrive. I could go to my local gas station nearby and use their air hose, but its raining hard right now and I am not in the mood to walk in the rain with a fatty wheel.

    Updates later on...

  170. #170
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    I had the same problem as you intially. If you want, look back at my pics on page 1 of this thread. I used the foam strips, and if you work the tire bead into the channel created by the foam and the bead, you'll seat your tires. I seated Fat B Nimbles onto Rolling Darryls quite easily (this is a difficult combo to work with).

  171. #171
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    Update...

    I couldn't wait for my FS foam strips so I made my own but cutting strips of firm foam material that came as packaging for I bike frame I bought six years ago. I knew I would have some use for this thing. I don't know how big the original FS foam strips are but my strips measured about with 10mm by 7mm.

    I used the Elmer's spray as adhesive for my foam strips and they easily tacked into place. I re-sprayed the rim/foam area again before "folding" back the Fatty Stripper into the edge of the rim. I think I should have cut back on the glue spray because everything was getting tacky in my living room and I could feel the hair on my arms and legs getting tacky too. More importantly, I was struggled to fold the Fatty Stripper over the rim.

    Eventually I was able to properly refold everything over the side of the rims without any folds. Before putting on the tire I added a lot of Vaseline from my wife's stash. Strangely the tire was now tighter on the rim compared to when I first put it on without the foam strips. It was so tight that I could not nudge the tire bead over the foam strip bulge. It took a lot of cajoling, and pumping and soaping before that tire settled in place. It was past midnight by the time I was finished and I had to soap and pump that tire at least five times before it started keeping air.

    Tonight I will add the sealant and cut the strips from the edges.

    More to follow...

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartan_msu View Post
    Would this stretch to fit a 29+ wheel? I have some on the way that I have heard are difficult to set up tubeless. I am wondering if this would stretch and work on a 29"x 47mm wide rim?
    My buddy got the following response when he asked about this. We set his ECR wheels up, and so far they are holding air pretty well (no rides on them yet).


    We haven't published anything about compatibility with 29/700c/29+ rims simply because I haven't had time to make a video showing installation on that platform.

    The standard band works great on 29/700c rims. It is definitely tighter, which is good because tolerances are tighter. The stretched latex does get thinner, but its plenty strong enough. For 35mm or less rims, guys have been splitting the standard band in half. For the wider 29+ rims, the band gets narrow when stretched, so you can't get 2 rimstrips out of one... but it still works great for one rim. Most guys do not do the glue step on 29 or 29+ rims. After a little bit of time, the band will bond with the tire's bead and essentially make a tubular tire, so its not all that easy to re-use when changing tires. Its possible... but you have to take your time and separate the band from the tire's bead carefully.

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Update...
    I think I should have cut back on the glue spray because everything was getting tacky in my living room and I could feel the hair on my arms and legs getting tacky too. More importantly, I was struggled to fold the Fatty Stripper over the rim.
    I have a stock, Surly Ice Cream Truck. I used glue and foam roads on the first wheel, and found it difficult to get the fatty stripper in place. With the foam rods, the FS has to be located just right and once the glue starts getting too tacky it really gets challenging. And getting the tire on the rim with foam rods wasn't easy either.

    For the 2nd wheel, I just went FS with NO glue or foam rods. Much, much simpler to install. I used silicone grease and a small air compressor for both of them.

    Both air upped instantly, and have held air pretty well with a few rides in. I think a floor pump would have probably worked too.

    I don't really see the point in using glue to save the FS, and I'd rather let it stay attached to the tire (like a tubular). I'll probably be re-using tires and swapping between summer and winter tires (or fast and fat). Replacement FS are relatively cheap.

  174. #174
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    Has anyone attempted this method:

    12) If you glued the FattyStripper on the rim and want to trim off the excess FattyStripper before putting on the tire, I recommend waiting 30 minutes or more to let the adhesive set and the latex to relax onto your rim. You can trim the excess FattyStripper after putting on the tire... this just comes down to personal preference and how much you care about the finished aesthetic look.

  175. #175
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    Nvm. I just installed and trimmed the strip with a sharp box cutter and it worked great.

    This is the best tubeless solution out there! Set the bead on my Ground Controls with no sealant on my Fatboy SE wheels first try with compressor. Very easy once you've done one. Highly recommend.

    Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk

  176. #176
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    I've setup several Fatboys with these with great success. Curious if anyone has tried gluing a split tube in a similar way to the Fatty Stripper for customers who don't care about the weight difference?

  177. #177
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    I did two bikes last night. Both on mulefuts. One had D5's and changed back to Barbi's and the second had Vee Snowshoes with 1/4" screws.

    Overall it was fairly straightforward albeit tedious. The Snowshoes have never been off and the beads were difficult to break but not impossible. They were tight to get back on and I worried the latex would tear but no issues.

    Vee's were leaking because of the screw holes and the Barbis held pressure for three or four hours before I headed to bed. I'm pretty sure they will both hold air with no issues.

    Lost about two pounds per bike.

    I'm not a "bling" sort of guy but I will say those bling strips look great when the light hits them.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  178. #178
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    Hi all, I am also thinking about getting this setup for tubeless. What are you guys using for backup on the trails? Can you just through a tube in if you damage the tire?

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skarecrow View Post
    Hi all, I am also thinking about getting this setup for tubeless. What are you guys using for backup on the trails? Can you just through a tube in if you damage the tire?
    Sure, a spare tube works. Just remove valve and fattystripper and throw the tube in.

  180. #180
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    DT Swiss rim and Surly Bud rim combo seems real loose. Will I need backer rod? Wasn't planning on that...

  181. #181
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    Just finished putting Snowshoe 2XLs on Clownshoes using Fatty Stripper rimstrips. Set up was easy - the hardest part was centering the rim strip after putting the adhesive on (shiz gets a lil sticky). Otherwise great product - and super lightweight!

  182. #182
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    Worked flawlessly during the ITI350 this year. Only issue I had with air pressure was on day 2 when in a sleep deprived state I didn't close the valve stem and it leaked and the stans froze or gunned up in the stem. Easy fix and not related to the stripper set up.
    Fatter than most.

  183. #183
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    2 different bike shops couldn't get these to work on my Alaskan Alloy Framed. Anyone else get them to work on this set-up?

  184. #184
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by toad37 View Post
    2 different bike shops couldn't get these to work on my Alaskan Alloy Framed. Anyone else get them to work on this set-up?
    Yes. I converted 4 Framed wheels 5 months ago personally. I used the foam rods because the customer wanted maximum burp performance. I seated one of the tires with a floor pump just to show how to do it... then used the compressor to keep from getting sweaty. Those wheels are still set up and running without any issues. They haven't leaked or burped, according to the customer when I messaged him today.

    What tires are you using?

    Email me some pictures of your setup so I can see what's going on.

    Jim

  185. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    DT Swiss rim and Surly Bud rim combo seems real loose. Will I need backer rod? Wasn't planning on that...
    The DT Swiss rims are excellent rims for converting to tubeless with most tires... including Bud and Lou. I've run this exact combo. You will not need the foam rods. If you have 120 tpi, often, you can inflate with a floor pump. If you have 60 tpi, you'll need to hit it hard with a compressor... either way, use lube on the band and remove the core from the valve.

  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Yes. I converted 4 Framed wheels 5 months ago personally. I used the foam rods because the customer wanted maximum burp performance. I seated one of the tires with a floor pump just to show how to do it... then used the compressor to keep from getting sweaty. Those wheels are still set up and running without any issues. They haven't leaked or burped, according to the customer when I messaged him today.

    What tires are you using?

    Email me some pictures of your setup so I can see what's going on.

    Jim
    Jim,

    I'm using the stock "Framed" house brand tires.
    I emailed you pictures of my set-up back when I ordered on 3/14. I had two different bike shops spend time on it and they couldn't get it. Maybe they did it wrong. I emailed you about it and never heard back. I moved on from it.

  187. #187
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by toad37 View Post
    Jim,

    I'm using the stock "Framed" house brand tires.
    I emailed you pictures of my set-up back when I ordered on 3/14. I had two different bike shops spend time on it and they couldn't get it. Maybe they did it wrong. I emailed you about it and never heard back. I moved on from it.
    Is this Todd? Shipped to JR?

    Unfortunately I've been getting record amounts of SPAM... and I just checked for an email and didn't see any mentioning FRAMED still sitting in my INBOX. Can you resend your email? I'd like to know what you're seeing. Are the Framed tires 60tpi and really stiff? Did the core get pulled from the valve? Did you use foam rods? What lube on the bands?

  188. #188
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    Do the foam rods stand up to repeated installations, or do they pack out?

    I ask because I used the window sill gasket and split tube method. While it worked great, I have no way to add sealant without starting completely over. If I open the valve to add sealant through it, inevitably the bead breaks. The tire/rim fit is so loose that I can't get the bead to re-seat unless I start with 100% fresh foam to fill the rim gap.

    ac

  189. #189
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    No, the foam rods do not stand up. Just like the fatty stripper, they are one and done. I am a big fan of the split tube method. I use a sill sealer foam to take up the extra gap. I have Fatback rims adding sealant does not seem to be an issue.

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I ask because I used the window sill gasket and split tube method. While it worked great, I have no way to add sealant without starting completely over. If I open the valve to add sealant through it, inevitably the bead breaks.
    Does it pull the tire away from the split tube? I always thought the tire would stick to the tube, and the tube would stay tight against the rim well enough that it wouldn't pull the bead away.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  191. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Does it pull the tire away from the split tube? I always thought the tire would stick to the tube, and the tube would stay tight against the rim well enough that it wouldn't pull the bead away.
    That's what happened the last time I tried so I had to start completely over with new foam. It was a pain.

    I was thinking about gluing the tire bead to the split tube next time.

    ac

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    No, the foam rods do not stand up. Just like the fatty stripper, they are one and done. I am a big fan of the split tube method. I use a sill sealer foam to take up the extra gap. I have Fatback rims adding sealant does not seem to be an issue.
    I haven't had to use the foam rods, but the fatty stripper isn't "one and done". I used a small amount of spray adhesive at the edge of my rim to hold the fattie stripper in place and was able to do tire swaps without damaging the stripper. No big deal. I think it must just depend on what rim you're using.
    MiTT
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  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoMitt View Post
    I haven't had to use the foam rods, but the fatty stripper isn't "one and done". I used a small amount of spray adhesive at the edge of my rim to hold the fattie stripper in place and was able to do tire swaps without damaging the stripper. No big deal. I think it must just depend on what rim you're using.
    I used it with my Rolling Daryls. My Dillingers were too loose and I used the foam rods to hold the bead toward the rim edge. When I swapped to spring tires I found the Fatty Stripper stuck to the tire and the rods needed replacing as they were compressed. I did reinstall one fatty stripper once when it failed to seal. I got it to work. It can be done, but it was a PITA. Also, I hated trying to trim the FS so that the red/pink did not show between the tire and my black rims. The split tube has worked much better for me. I have found I can swap tires, change foam and reuse without issue. I also like that the stem is integrated, so there is one fewer areas to leak. I do not have to trim it nearly as closely as the black tube edge is not nearly as noticeable. Is it marginally heavier, sure, but what's 50g on a fat bike?

    The FS is a solution for some, but not me.

  194. #194
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    I set up a Bud and Lou on Clown Shoes with the Fatty Stripper this weekend.

    I used the backer rods and bling strip with a little bit of soap for lubrication. The only place where I had a bit of trouble was getting everything to seal around the valve stem. Maybe I didn't use the spare tube quite right...didn't watch the video just went off written instructions. I had to tighten the nut quite a bit to get a good seal around the valve (even needed to use my multi-tool). In the end, I got everything set up with a hand pump. Set up took a bit of sweat, care and finesse, but I'm pleased.

  195. #195
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    Did two kenda juggernauts on my stock fatboy rims. I popped both tires on with no stans just to get one side of the bead on without spilling stans everywhere. One of them held air overnight without any stans. I aired them both down and put stans in through the stem. Other then having to snug down one of the stems a little more it couldn't have gone any smoother.

    Fyi I went from tubes ground controls to tubeless juggernauts and shaved about 4.8lbs off my bike

  196. #196
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    So after stumbling across this thread I ordered a set up. Got it as "parts" as I didn't want the sealant. Have my own 3/4 gallon worth of home brew.

    Orange bling strips
    Valves
    Foams
    And rim strips.

    Foams had several smashed spots in them due to USPS (and packing in the thinnest padded envelope I've ever seen). Grabbed an extra role from Lowe's (fatty stripper is was cheaper, enough for 2 rims was way cheaper than the one role that was enough for 1 rim)

    After reading this thread I figured clear gorilla tape was a good idea as I'm a bigger guy, run higher pressures. So backed the bling strips with it.

    Followed directions for the rear first which has a Nate ATM (ordering a rougarou for the rear soon) and wasn't to bad to get set up.

    Now the front I have a Bontrager barbagazi........ That was many cuss words and walking away 3 times. Since they are TLR tires with tight beads even though I glued down the foams they kept getting sucked up onto the bead seat so tires wouldnt seat.

    So today I tried a different plan. Tore it all down except the bling strip (backing covering adhesive of course came off with old tape). Put new foams in, then backed the bling strip and foams with the clear gorilla tape. Then put the fatty strip over all that.

    Pushed one bead on as far as I could, hit it with air compressor and DONE. I wasted 3+ hrs fighting it yesterday. Took 30 minutes including taking old stuff off and from is done.

    2011 Mukluk with stock Sheba's, drilled. Successful tubeless set up thanks to this set up!!!!

    From now on no more ghetto or rigging on this or future fatty. Though the extra showing around the rim is mildly annoying, I have confidence in this system. Never thought of the foam rods.

    Love it when independent innovation solves an pain in the a$$ problem without it costing an arm and a leg.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    Drifting... and an old post, but I've tested a few things...

    With a 47mm trials rim: a 24" tube (hard to find locally) inside really presses 120 TPI in Larry, Endo or Nate against the rim. Haven't found a way to get air & sealant past the 24" tube to the resulting tubeless chamber in a manner that I'd trust, so I haven't ridden this. (Best I could come up with was putting a second value for the tubeless chamber opposite the tube's value, then crazy-gluing the tube flat for an inch at that spot, then a through hole for the 2nd valve, with plastic washer glued to the tube. Still not convinced the tube would stay contained.) I was intending to try SCS 1200 silicone to seal the tire bead to the rim.

    With a 100mm rim: two 24" tubes expand their circumference too much without pushing sideways enough to be effective. Didn't try three. Weight and complexity is getting up there too.

    I would expect two 24" tubes on an 80mm rim would work, but I haven't got an 80mm rim.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  198. #198
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    An update for the guys that have mentioned trying to add sealant.

    I can do it whenever through the valve stem no problem, because of the foam rods being glued in place the bead doesn't release. My front tire I lost a lot of sealant trying to sort out how to get it to seat properly. Once done and let the wheel sit overnight I realized I needed to add sealant. Pulled the valve core, added, aired back up without issues.

    So much simpler than the split tube mess.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  199. #199
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    I have done three fatboy wheels by now with little problems. However, I always get a bit of leaking around the valve. It will seal eventually, once I add Stans. I use a double layer of cut up tire between the valve and the stripper. Anything I could do to seal it better from the get go?

  200. #200
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    Totally forgot I posted this thread! Been running my split tubes still so haven't even tried them myself!
    Fatbike / Monstercross / Hybrid

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