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  1. #1
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    Fat Bike for Beach/Ocean Use

    I am looking for suggestions on my first fat bike purchase. This bike will mainly be used at the beach for morning rides. I do have some some concerns on the salt air and sand and corrosion. I know that is something I will have to deal with,but I look forward to morning rides.

    I really have not researched fat bikes at all. I am open to suggestions. I do want quality.

  2. #2
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    What sort of budget do you have? Carbon and Aluminum frames wont rust but can cost more than a steel frame.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by driver bob View Post
    What sort of budget do you have? Carbon and Aluminum frames wont rust but can cost more than a steel frame.
    Honestly don't hve a budget, but don't feel the need to go carbon. I think my biggest concern is salt and sand with the components.

  4. #4
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    My Moonlander is awesome on deep beach sand. You can probably find a deal on one now too. I would not worry about salt and sand so much. Just put some frame saver in the frame and fork, stay out of the salt water, and lightly hose down the bike with fresh water after rides. Tiny spurts of WD40 on certain bolts like caliper bolts or others that tend to oxidize helps too.

    Not sure what tires come on the new Moonies, but Big Fat Larry's are well regarded round here as a great sand tire. I run mine tubeless at 3-5 psi on the sand with great results.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    For a beach ride, my biggest concern would be float. Hence the biggest tires possible.

    Your going to have to deal with rust and corrosion issues regardless of what bicycle you buy. None are designed to take the constant abuse salt water dishes out.

    My thoughts would be a well sealed up specialized fatboy (for a lighter option) or a Moonlander thats been frame saver'd (heavier option) with a bud and a lou.

    I ride Lake Superiors beaches all the time, and that sand gets deep quick, both my moonie and Fb fair quite well in these conditions...we dont have the saltwater, the sand is enough to make me crazy.

    Thinking about it, perhaps a singlespeed fattie, geared way low would be an option. Just sit and spin a little gear, no deraillurs, cassettes and multiple chainrings to get mucked up

  6. #6
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    Salt water rusts steel parts quite fast, so a freshwater rinse after riding is a good idea.

    I just assembled a couple of Iron Horse Porter beach cruisers. Nice bike with good brakes, and Fat B Nimble tires for $200.

    At that price, you won't cry if it gets rust on it.

    Or buy a few so visiting friends can ride too....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by River Hill View Post
    I am looking for suggestions on my first fat bike purchase. This bike will mainly be used at the beach for morning rides. I do have some some concerns on the salt air and sand and corrosion. I know that is something I will have to deal with,but I look forward to morning rides.

    I really have not researched fat bikes at all. I am open to suggestions. I do want quality.

    RSDbikes.com Have a look at the Mayor and then look ate the components hanging on the 3 offerings and now the price and see if the big company is offering something comparable. Will the other choices allow the use of tires up to 5.05? On the beach a pair of 5.05's would be sweet. Assuming the beach isn't hardpack and is real sand. Floatation was mentioned above and agreed, fatter is better.
    The nice thing with RSD is customer support is second to none, period. Lifetime warrantee on frames. They do offer aluminum as well as Ti.

    Alex has been great to do business with and has earned the respect of many clients through his attention to detail and client concerns.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    Surly Pugsley, Single or Dingle Speed front/rear, with BB7 front brake only. Rinse, oil, repeat!

    Fatbiking Alaska’s Gulf Coast Video | Revelate Designs LLC

    https://vimeo.com/tag:coastkid

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    RSDbikes.com Have a look at the Mayor and then look ate the components hanging on the 3 offerings and now the price and see if the big company is offering something comparable. Will the other choices allow the use of tires up to 5.05? On the beach a pair of 5.05's would be sweet. Assuming the beach isn't hardpack and is real sand. Floatation was mentioned above and agreed, fatter is better.
    The nice thing with RSD is customer support is second to none, period. Lifetime warrantee on frames. They do offer aluminum as well as Ti.

    Alex has been great to do business with and has earned the respect of many clients through his attention to detail and client concerns.
    The 2016 rsd in aluminium can mount vee 2xl on 80mm rims, but I'm not so sure the titanium version can.. It has a different shaped chainstay and it looks a lot tighter.

    Do you know the inside chainstay width at the spot where the tire clears and the outside width where the crank arms pass?
    The titanium version looks like it could fit rf turbine cinch with a 169,5mm spindle, and that would be a nice +

  11. #11
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    The RF Turbine is the crank I'm using with 190/175. Not sure of the spindle length cause I bought the crankset as a package. I'll get a pic showing the arm to cs clearance. It's around 8mm so rather close. The mayor is Not for the Q sensitive rider by any means.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  12. #12
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    Andy,
    The Ti frame does clear a 5.0h so sweet!

    Here is a pic of both the drive side and passenger side of the monster truck...

    Fat Bike for Beach/Ocean Use-img_0389.jpg

    Fat Bike for Beach/Ocean Use-img_0388.jpg

    The difference is the Ti yoke is chain stay from the BB shell out rather than a fabbed yoke as the aluminum frame has. Otherwise the interior space is sufficient to support 5.05's on 80's.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  13. #13
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    I have an Origin 8 Crawler (with an IGH Nuvinci N360 rear hub) and it's AMAZING for beach riding.

    it IS heavy, but for a highly corrosive environment, there are very few bikes better equipped.


    the better question is which state/beach. The sand on the TX coast can go from hard like dirt to what we call sugar sand (super fine/soft). I can't imagine "needing" more than a 4" tire for comfortable beach riding, snow requires alot more float than sand.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by River Hill View Post
    ...fatbike... mainly be used at the beach...concerns on the salt air and sand and corrosion.
    Greetings from a Daytona Beach rider! Daytona is a great beach ride, from Ponce Inlet all the way north as far as you care to go....up to Flagler Beach... and beyond. Beside the salt air, spray and such, there are many tidal pools and salt water runoff that must be traversed. I try not to ride directly in the surf, but wet shoreline is sometimes a must do as well.

    Most of my riding is there, with occasional levee berm riding inland, and the short rides around town on pavement.

    Some things that may work for you. I've got an aluminum frame/steel fork combination on a Moto Boris X7. No real issues (yet at 18 months or so) with the frame and fork, nor head stock bearings. The bottom bracket has been well greased with that green synthetic marine grease. Ditto for the wheel bearings.

    The only parts of the bike that have corroded are the original pedals (cheapie Chinese whatever no-name brand) and the various chrome plated hardware. The bicycle gets a thorough hosing down at the end of every weekend I ride on the beach.

    As to the corroded hardware... all the little 5mm x .8 socket head cap screws for the braze-on fittings and handlebar clamp, that sort of thing... were chrome plated terribly, and began to rust immediately. I replaced them all with 316 (also called A4) stainless steel. Oddly, the painted hardware has held up perfectly. I've been told there's a reaction with "salt water" and chrome plating that does not make for a lasting combination. The choice of 316 stainless was purposeful. Common stainless hardware is 18-8 stainless (also known as A2). This is a general stainless, easy to work into screws and parts, easy to machine. It also corrodes rapidly in salt water, in this case due to the chloride content in the salt. The 316 has a high percentage of molybdenum that works very well in marine environments. So, just remember all "stainless" is no so when it comes to salt water.

    For replacement pedals... I went with a medium price Shimano set a few months ago and I will say they're holding up "better" but not perfectly. Maybe changing pedals every year and a half or two years is the price you pay?

    I've also purchased a few 6mm x 1 screws for other odds and end parts (steering clamp, etc).

    My local industrial fastener supplier got me everything I needed - which I ended up getting a box quantity of the 5mm screws and just a few of the 6mm. Cost was not exactly cheap, but didn't break the bank, and was cheaper than the 18-8 stuff available at Home Depot and such places.

    As for the chain. I'm still on chain #1. I hose it off, wipe it dry, wait a bit for residual water to dry (running the chain rapidly on a lifted rear tire helps before you wait). Then I go back and hit it with Boeshield T9, a bit heavier than they call for, wipe it off to remove any sand and such that is stubborn, and that's that. Chain looks great...!

    Have also had trouble with Presta valve cores. I ended up getting replacements that are probably no better than the originals, but... I've changed 'em out as of a month ago. The originals were just corroded to the point that they didn't hold air (internal and external corrosion). They're cheap, so no biggie.

    And.... batteries on lights. If you mount a light and ride at the beach, you're going to have problems due to salty electrolysis. I dis-mount the lights before a beach ride to avoid that. Keep 'em in my frame bag in a zip lock (they're small) in case I get caught late, or decide to take in dinner via bicycle and it gets dark.

    Ah... one more thing. Cables. My originals rusted rapidly, no matter what. I ended up getting some replacements that had a coated core and little o-rings at the fittings to keep crap out of the sheath. Never looked back. They've been there a year, zero issues.

    Hope you can benefit from my experience.

  15. #15
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    You can replace almost everything on a bike to be salt resistant.
    Besides nuts and bolts you can get pedal spindles and chains in titanium.
    I am not sure if ceramic bearings would hold up well in an off road fatbike but beach riding is low stress so they might be ok.
    Brake and shifter cables can also be had in titanium or Power Cordz.
    Totem KDS-D fatbike, Brompton M2L-X Ti, 6kg Dahon Dove, 1998 GT Forte Ti road bike

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Andy,
    The Ti frame does clear a 5.0h so sweet!

    Here is a pic of both the drive side and passenger side of the monster truck...

    The difference is the Ti yoke is chain stay from the BB shell out rather than a fabbed yoke as the aluminum frame has. Otherwise the interior space is sufficient to support 5.05's on 80's.

    The RF Turbine is the crank I'm using with 190/175. Not sure of the spindle length cause I bought the crankset as a package. I'll get a pic showing the arm to cs clearance. It's around 8mm so rather close. The mayor is Not for the Q sensitive rider by any means.
    Thanks for the pics and the info on the titanium version:
    I'm in love with the vee 2xl on snow, so that's a requirement for all my future bikes, so big props to rsd for that

    By the looks of the pictures the chainstay on the alu version will definately not clear the arms of mounted on a "170mm" spindle (it has the "190mm spindle by the way), but since the titanium frame is a little thinner and has the bowed shaped yokes it might actually clear it by a few mm.

    Atm you've got 233mm q factor. (I personally can't ride that)
    rf next sl arms on that spindle would give you 223mm (smallest achevable q on the alu frame)
    turbines on "170mm" spindle would give you 213mm (maybe possible on the titanium version)

    Sorry for derailing the thread a little bit, but since this is about beach riding, i'd look for a bike that can mount vee 2xl tires, and the rsd mayor is a nice contender in that category.

    To the op: look in the 2xl thread, those would be your optimal bikes for sand/beach. Combine it with a closed gear system like pinion or rolhoff, and you'll "own" the beach.

  17. #17
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    Thanks everyone for your input. Lots of options to look out. I realize this will involve a little more thought and research than I originally thought.

  18. #18
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    That's the fun part of it, River Hill...
    The anticipation is the most difficult part of it, but worth every minute!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  19. #19
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    A belt drive is another option to avoid dealing with rusty drivetrains.
    Totem KDS-D fatbike, Brompton M2L-X Ti, 6kg Dahon Dove, 1998 GT Forte Ti road bike

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttakata73 View Post
    A belt drive is another option to avoid dealing with rusty drivetrains.
    and a great way to do so....but then you're looking to either modify an existing frame or buy a bike with a Rohloff/Nuvinci and the price goes up a BUNCH.

    the best part about going belt drive on a IGH fatty, is that you can use a 135 rear spacing and still run 4" tires. (Like the Origin 8 Crawler, but it come

  21. #21
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    With some preperation any Fatbike will be fine in saltwater conditions, My original Pugsley is 9 years old and over 11,000 miles on it

    Here is a few tips on how to keep your bike running sweet;
    coastrider: Fatbike Preperation for beach riding
    plan it...build it....ride it...love it....
    http://coastkid.blogspot.com/

  22. #22
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    Here's my "dune buggy"... W/ 2XL's specifically trimmed for sand...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fat Bike for Beach/Ocean Use-s2300002.jpg  


  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ward View Post
    Here's my "dune buggy"... W/ 2XL's specifically trimmed for sand...
    Nice setup. What brand is it and where did you get the mud/sand guards?

  24. #24
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    It's a large, Salsa Blackborow... one of the few production bikes that can run the 2XL's. And, I hear that the XS Blackborow is a bit tight at the seat stay's with them even w/ the dropouts slid all the way back. 2XL's (with stock tread) fit my Lg. w/ the droputs adjusted about halfway back... and after trimming for sand, I was able to slide them back forward most of the way (about 2 or 3mm back). If you want to run something this big, get accurate info about clearence first... only a few "5"" bikes will clear these- and still function. Speaking of function, I'm still using a 2x crankset and getting all my gears... except in granny low the chain rubs the tire a small amount and that is mostly due to the "tire wobble" inherent in "big meats" like this. But, since my granny is 20/36, 2nd gear is plenty low for most of my beach/sand riding.

  25. #25
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    Oh yeah, the slash guards... the rear is just an old mt. bike fender I had... not really wide enough but I just put these tires on last week for a beach trip and had to "run what I brung". The front is simply made from the plastic from a one gallon, round jug (actually from a bottle of lamination adhesive at work)... super simple, functional and cheap!

  26. #26
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    Nice job, Ward. Looks the part with the high fat content!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  27. #27
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    I looked at a 2016 Salsa Blackborow that I like.

    Before I pull the trigger is anyone aware of anything out for 2017 that might be a close comparison to the Salsa Blackborow.

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