e 13 snow cranks- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Ancient Astronaut
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    e 13 snow cranks

    Could those of you who have been using the e 13 snow cranks for a while give your impressions.

    Specifics on which frame you are using it on, durability expectations.

    Any issues with running the FD-XT 780 E in conjunction with the e 13.

    PG

  2. #2
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    I'm using them as the stock cranks on my Muk 2. So far, only about 250 miles on them, and none of that in snow (although a significant amount of it in cold weather).

    No complaints thus far. They spin nice and easy, and even when subjected to a pretty intense mud ride, they performed well (and didn't permit any water/mud to intrude into the BB). Clearance is good, and even when hammering (with all of my 155#?), no detectible flexion. Comparing them to the Hussies on a Muk 3, I'd venture that the E13s are a bit sturdier feeling--even though they're lighter. No experience with the 10 speed derailleur you're asking about--I've got the stock X.7 on my Muk.

  3. #3
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    I have an e 13 with the e-type XT on my '12 9 zero 7. Seems to work just fine for me even down to negative temps. I did have my LBS winterize my hub and BB though.

  4. #4
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    Follow-up e13 set-up question

    wrcRS, I noted in your response to Patagrande's original question that you mentioned that you have an e 13 with the e-type XT on your '12 9 zero 7.

    As luck would have it, I'm in the process of building up the same set-up but I've hit a snag with chainring clearance issues. Based on your experience, is there a special trick or spacer arrangement to allow the e-type front derailleur to clear the 44T chain ring? I've reviewed the tech documents and video on the e.13 website and I believe I am setting up the crankset per their specs for a 100 mm bb shell (a spacer plus the derailleur bb mount plate on the drive side and a single spacer on the non-drive side). I've tried mounting the front derailleur closest to the bb shell as well as the option of the spacer against the bb shell and the bb mount plate on the outboard side of the spacer. In both cases the front derailleur won't clear the large chain ring (about 4-5 mm still needed to clear).

    Any thoughts or suggestions?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas!

  5. #5
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    I had Chain Reaction build the bike. I would have to look at the bike to see the BB arrangement when I get home tonight. I know that I have no issues with chain clearance on my RD w/Endo tire or FD on the big ring.

    Have you tried calling Chain Reaction Cycles about this? They would know.

  6. #6
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    That's great to know you're running that combo without issue. I did send the folks at Chain Reaction an email last night when I'd exhausted my own creativity with different combinations, web search, etc. I've not yet heard back from them but hope to shortly.

    Thanks for the response!

  7. #7
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    I have xt e-type on e13 cranks with 44t...

    where the etype der attaches to the bb plate, there is an aluminum oval shaped nut with a threaded nut on it. You have to remove, rotate and reinstall it to get over the larger chainring.

    that nut is the height adjusting mechanism.

    look at it again and you will see

    g

  8. #8
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    Eureka! That sounds like just the sort of adjustment point I was looking for. I'll check it out when I get back to Santa's workshop.

    Thanks for the help, gregclimbs!

  9. #9
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    closest pics I can find:



    The bolt on the right between the bb bracket and der.

    Threads into the oblong nut seen here:



    and the other screws into the bracket on the pugs bb (but it is a slot that provides clearance).

    pay attention to the direction and remount so it sits higher (there will be a larger gap between der and bracket.

    should do the trick.

    g

  10. #10
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    Yep, that should definitely give me the extra vertical adjustment I need to clear the 44T chainring. Thanks again for your help and for the photos!

  11. #11
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    Woodsmanpete,

    The oblong nut is kind of counter intuitive, for the highest setting the hole has to point down to the ground.

    On another note, I have a little clearance issue with mine, on the 22 the chain rubs the bracket just a hair. I am going to swap the spacer from next to the BB shell to next to the BB cup, to get more clearance, that moves the derailleur close to the frame.

  12. #12
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    Thanks Patagrande! Good luck with your spacer experiment.

  13. #13
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    I'm using a set on my 2011 and now 2012 907 with zero problems whatsoever. Even in below freezing temps and rigorous single track with out a hiccup.

    However I'm never really shifting my front ring...Does any one have tips on converting the front crank set to single? Other than taking the parts off I'm not sure if I should do anything else (remove links, some sort of chain holder/guide)

  14. #14
    Fat!Drunk!Slow!
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    Pata, it should be BB cup, 1 spacer, e-type plate, BB shell. If you had it the other way, you would need some sort of spacer behind the bolt mount to keep the FD parallel.

  15. #15
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    Thanks Jordy,

    Yes the kit comes with a "post" spacer that fits between bracket and post to keep things parallel.
    The e 13 guys first recommended the >BB shell->Spacer->Bracket set up, unless there are clearance issues like in my case, then its reversed.

    I like the idea of the bracket keeping the chain from getting sucked, so I am going to live with the slight rubbing, once the finish is "polished' off I think it will be OK , otherwise I will reverse it.

    I am most definitely having to relax my standards to make this build work for me.
    I know now that on my particular 2011 Large 907 a Nate in the rear means dropping a couple of cogs.

    I am sure I wont miss them climbing, and with my 250 lbs plus BP gear, on the descents, my concern will be bigger rotors rather than smaller cogs...

    PG

  16. #16
    Chad
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    On a slightly different note. A local shop tried to build up a Moonlander with e-13s and it will not work.
    Not even with the guidance of e-13 themselves.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luthar View Post
    On a slightly different note. A local shop tried to build up a Moonlander with e-13s and it will not work.
    Not even with the guidance of e-13 themselves.
    Why?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Why?
    I think the Moonlander uses a wider BB.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I think the Moonlander uses a wider BB.
    Wider than 100mm BB shell? That seems like an odd decision unless you are also supplying a custom BB/crankset to go with each frame.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Wider than 100mm BB shell? That seems like an odd decision unless you are also supplying a custom BB/crankset to go with each frame.
    Yeah I looked it up I'm wrong . Sorry

  21. #21
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    The Mr Whirley Crankset for moonlander has a longer bottom bracket spindle

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev-Bot View Post
    The Mr Whirley Crankset for moonlander has a longer bottom bracket spindle
    I thought I was right but then I looked on the Surly website and under frame specs it says 100mm bb.

  23. #23
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    Yeah. 100mm shell has nothing to do with the spindle.

  24. #24
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    Yeah, the normal spindle length with a 100mm shell is 145mm AFAIK
    Disclaimer: ComCycle USA

  25. #25
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    9Zero7, Nate, e13 update.

    I just finished building my bike, and took it for a night stroll on a state park 2/3 of a mile from home.

    I can now use all my gears on my 3X10 drivetrain, with a Nate on the rear, it took some massaging and convincing....
    The Nate is significantly wider than the Endo, a true 4.0.
    I used my BFL on the front on a 100mm Surly fork, laced to an Alfine dyno, it does look bigger than Nate, which does look bigger than the Endo and Larry.

    I got a couple of bugs to sort out, and I should be able to give her a good shakedown ride tomorrow.

    I went with the 180mm e13' out of desperation frankly, and was uncharacteristically bobbing which I thought could be the cranks, but maybe I have to get used to the giant tires at low pressure, and also the higher inertia that is always trying to get ahead of the gear I am in.
    What do you think?
    Also what are you using for a low pressure gauge.

    I mounted 203 CL XT rotors F/R with BB7, and Shimano Levers. The rear was locking easily on the descents. I am afraid that I will no be able to use my Brooks, I am maxed out on the Thomson set back seat post. Maybe I can exchange it for a Swift which has more adjustment room, but most definitely my 9Zero7 is front biased, and I can tell traction in the snow will suffer if I do not shift more weight to the back.

    Barring one of the BB7 inboard adjusters being very stiff, the set up does go up easily, but their instructions need some tweaking. I found that to be able to achieve the 1/3 to 2/3 ratio they want you to have, its better to preset that while the caliper is not mounted, and you can look at the front of it rather than through the inspection hole on top. Looking at the front end where the date of manufacturing is painted, you can better gauge the ratio, you then adjust the pistons and check and adjust the clearance for the rotor. You can then bolt on the adapter, and torque it. Next you do the usual squeeze lever and hold while you alternatively bring the CPS bolts to torque specs, then back the both adjusters one at a time and the least possible until there is no drag.
    The ratio is intact and you are done.

    My first impression on the bike is that unless it starts falling apart, it will do the things I want it to do.

    Will try and shoot some pictures tomorrow.

    P.G.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDad View Post
    Yeah, the normal spindle length with a 100mm shell is 145mm AFAIK
    Right. That seems to be industry standard.

    I can't find the length any place for the Whirly spindle for the 100mm BB.

    Kevbot purports to know but he's keeping it a secret.

  27. #27
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    Spindle in a 100mm Mr Whirly is 156mm

  28. #28
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    From today's shakedown ride. I did my torture test and things went very well, e13's are smooth and creak free, I climbed and cleared everything that I do on my 5 Spot, so I was very pleased. Even on the steepest sections, where I drop onto the 22/36, there was no tire rub. On occasion the BB7 's sang a few Christmas carols I will try to eliminate that since it does annoy me. Only the brooks adjustment continues to be an issue, I gave it a bit of a low rear attitude at the top of the mountain, this helped, but I am going to have to find a post which allows me to slide the saddle another 15mmm back at least.
    Any suggestions?

    Here are some shots, more in an album in my page.



    Here is one of the milled bracket to fit the 203mm rear rotor.








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