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  1. #1
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite (Hitch, etc.)

    Got it.
    Assembled.
    First ride.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-first-ride-stock.jpg

    (sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)


    ************************************************** *****************
    ~edit: starting an index, to help people find key info in this long,
    and often cluttered, thread
    ************************************************** *****************
    ================================================== =========
    If you see a post in this thread that you think would benefit others if it's indexed
    here, then please PM me the link to that post.
    ================================================== =========

    Firstly...
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    ... NEVER let any partners or friends try it. You may not get it back.
    Secondly...
    We shouldn't have to say this, but for safety and optimizing the longevity of the parts (or in some cases, just so it will ride), check, grease and adjust everything before you first ride it. Typical culprits are Bottom Bracket, Front Hub, Rear Hub, Head Set, Brakes.


    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    ... Took a magnet to my dolo the other day. the aluminum parts were: stem, crankarms (oddly enough), and rims.
    Everything else was steel or plastic.
    Recommended Upgrades
    • Bottom Bracket: $10 YST BSA Cup & Bearings, with seal to spindle shaft
    • Optimum ZERO BEARING TORQUE - you want this for the BB & hub bearings
      zero torque, yet with zero play:
    • Late Discovery: ALTERNATE TO YST BB UPGRADE
      Better choice for heavy riders.
      Best choice if you've bent your BB spindle.
      Someone figured out that although the cartridge BB bearings are too narrow to work with the stock crank arms, there is a cartridge bearing (or two?) that will work with curved crank arms. Look in the last pages of this thread to see what parts work.
      Note: someone was doing this and discovered that their BB shell width wasn't 100 mm, but 110 mm. Measure.
      The YST is less drag to pedal when set to zero-torque, but I'm pretty sure the cartridge is better against contaminants as it uses sealed bearings, instead of the YST's simple rubber seal.
    • Freewheel with a granny gear:
      Shimano Megarange: 13-34T or 14-34T
      But they're "Alpine" gearing; they swap out their 28T for the 34T, so there's a big gap to the granny.
    • custom stack of a 34T megarange
      Allows you to put a 28T back in, for having a 28T and for smoother gear progression across the range.
      Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
      Modifying a Freewheel:
      Many Massif and Dolomite owners want to put an easier gear on their bikes. This is easily done by swapping on a Megarange freewheel. The problem with the megarange freewheel is that is has a big, 10 tooth, jump between the 2 largest cogs.
    • Alternate to a custom stacked 34T megarange freewheel
      7 speed vs. 8 speed freewheel
      Allegedly the Sunrace and others that fit are inferior quality to the Shimano (softer metal? bearings don't last as long?), but... the 8 speed has the same physical spacing between the gears, so the stock derailer can access 7 of the 8, so it's a straight swap in (subject to chain length for larger gears)
      13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34T usable 15-34T or a 11,13,15,18,21,24,28,34T usable 13-34T and some others.

      Gear Inch Chart with Eight Speed Freewheel

      Quote Originally Posted by momikey View Post
      ... I ended up ordering the 8 speed Sunrace megarange 11-34T ... has the 28T second gear as a nice step down... I only use gears 1-7 and not the eighth so it ends at 13t instead of 8th gear being 11T, all I had to do was install the part and ride....
    • Triple Mtb chain-ring:
      Pretty much essential for trail riding, or have hills, or other than packed snow on the flat or packed sand on the flat.
      22-32-42T, typically manually selected by moving the chain to the 22T for hills/trails/snow/sand or 32T for road.
      Then if you find yourself changing a lot, then look to adding a front derailer.

    Popular Upgrades
    • better tubes: roll easier, lighter too
    • better tires:
      120 tpi tires roll easier, better grip, lighter too
      Huge improvement to the quality & enjoyment of your ride.
      On-one floaters seem to be the most popular of the less-expensive all-purpose fat tires.
      Coloured on-one floaters on a Dolo
      Start of list of tires people have put on a Dolo
    • Easy to knock 7+ lbs. off the Dolo's weight with new tires & DH tubes.
    • trigger shifter:
      Some prefer triggers, some don't.
      Shimano SIS 7 speed compatible.
      One example that works)
    • Better brakes (like the Avid BB7)
      And larger rotor size recommended for anything other than cruising use on flat terrain, or for clydes. Why larger rotors for your fat bike.
    • Better brake levers (Avid Speed Dial levers are a nice indulgence ($14 to $40 depending on source), but overkill)
    • Better seat, different bars

    Also Done

    Tall Riders
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Dolo comes in one size, blue.


    Updated Feb 5, 2019, to change forum links from page based to post based addressing (even though the forum search returns page based links that don't work...)
    Last edited by Canoe; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:37 AM.

  2. #2
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    Handle bars and stem on backwards. Brilliant.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  3. #3
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    Brakes work, shifter works, bearings lubed.
    Front axle was locked tight.

    Very well packages compared to the way the Beast was boxed. Many tubes protected with thin foam & card-stock overtop.

    Calipers are not up to my BB7 set, but they work and so far are smooth.

    Rolls better than the Beast. Appears to be the same tires. I'll measure tomorrow.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Handle bars and stem on backwards. Brilliant.
    You couldn't take the time to read? Now that's ..., let's call it brilliant.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    You couldn't take the time to read?
    That you have a bike set up wrong?
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    That you have a bike set up wrong?
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    (sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)
    I can change the stem. I can't change my back.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for posting it. Sitting here hoping they are back in stock soon. Probably would ride better with the stem out front, but who am I to presume to know what you like? What if you're a vet with an arm missing or something. Ride your ride dude, it' all yours after all.

  8. #8
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    Hate to "ruin" it, but I'll be needing cruiser bars & an adjustable stem, and a set-back seat post...
    Not a vet, just back and other medical problems.

  9. #9
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    Hey there. Me, I use a BMX handlebar, leaned back a little. That's what makes me able to ride at all. You might want to try that, Canoe.

  10. #10
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    For the money, that is a great looking bike! I say get some ape hangers so your back doesn't hurt and ride the heck out of it. Please let us know how you like it after a couple of rides. I am thinking about buying one for when Dad comes to visit!

    Galen

  11. #11
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    A few more quick points from that short midnight ride.
    • Headset was wonderfully smooth and liquid (during assembly, and while riding at a few degrees below zero). (I've never seen this in a bike below $800, but my experience is limited)
    • Tires measure identical to the Beast tires, from the outside anyway. Have to pull one off to weigh it and the inner tube. At this point, no idea why the Dolo rolls so much better than the Beast. Tires smell, but no where near as bad as the Beast tires.
    • Wheel seemed stronger, more robust, confidence inspiring.
    • The 36 spokes are straight gauge. Couldn't find my dial calipers, but the plastic vernier one says the black Beast spokes are 1.6mm and the shiny steel Dolo spokes are 1.8mm.
    • By hand squeeze & plucking (no meter), spoke tension is good. Front wheel is tensioned slightly more on the LH than on the RH. Rear spokes have more variance in tension and their RH has meaningfully more tension. A quick look has the rims appearing to be both laterally & radially true, and it tracked nicely in that short ride.
    • No spokes creaked or cracked: appears that the wheel was properly stressed to seat the spokes & nipples as part of the build.
    • Some of the welds aren't ideal smooth waved pools, but while having to judge with paint on top, they appear strong enough.
    • The factory has taken care with the shiny paint. Not even fine surface marks from wiping with a hard cloth. I'm sure I'll fix that before too long.
    • When unpacking, I only found one small chip in the paint where the foam/card-stock shipping protection didn't extend quite far enough for whatever chipped the paint. Tube is not dinged.
    • The blue paint is far more attractive than the wallyworld photos show. And I had assumed I'd be stripping the paint off of the rims, but with it standing in front of me the bike looks good. So good I didn't even pull the decals off! (grumble grumble - I hate decals)
    • Brakes & gears obviously setup at the factory and worked out of the box.
    • Gears changed perfectly at the start of my short ride. By the end, it wouldn't go into 7th. I assume this is due to a new cable stretching.
    • Geometry is different from the Beast. The top of the head tube is much closer to the ground. ~1" closer. Riding, the Dolo seems downright "petite" compared to my Beast and a pugs with Larrys I've tried. A strange sensation to have for a fat bike.

    This is only a first look, and one bike, and no record of use, but this bike might be a real sleeper.
    And for $225.

    Hope to get it back outside sometime today to get some real photos.

  12. #12
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    Roughly what size would it compare it to? medium? large?
    DaveH
    '15 Salsa Horsethief
    '13 9:ZERO:7
    '13 Trek Domane
    '16 Salsa Fargo

  13. #13
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    I don't have enough experience to judge that. I have to ride sitting straight up anyway.
    What points would you like measured?

  14. #14
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    If you could get these dimensions, that would be great.
    DaveH
    '15 Salsa Horsethief
    '13 9:ZERO:7
    '13 Trek Domane
    '16 Salsa Fargo

  15. #15
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    Measurements to the nearest 1/16".
    (indoors, on flat concrete floor, frame vertical, fork straight)
    (I'm describing where I measure to/from, in case I chose the wrong point; I'm sure someone will be kind enough to correct me)
    • Wheelbase (center of axle to center of axle) 44 1/2"
    • Top Tube (top center of Seat Tube to top center of Head Tube) 23 1/16"
    • Stand-over (ground to highest point of the top of the Top Tube, immediately rear of the weld to the Head Tube) 34 3/4"
    • ground to top of the lowest point of the Top Tube (immediately forward of the weld to the Seat Tube) 27"
    • Seat Tube (center of crank to top of seat tube) 17 3/16"
    • "center to center" ? (center of crank to center of top tube meeting seat tube) 13 13/16"
    • ground to center of axle 14 9/16"
    • ground to center of crank 12 3/8"
    • rear axle to center of crank 18 3/4"


    ************************************************** ************
    ~edit: adding various measurements from throughout the thread.
    ************************************************** ************
    NOTE: measurements in this post (both above and below this note) are for the original Dolo, as shipped in March 2014. Weight ~49 lbs..

    (There are reports of later Dolo's having chain stays that are "around 3/4" narrower".
    From sometime in the summer/fall of 2014, they shipped with knobby tires.
    New knobby tires, 4.245" wide, 14.5 radius (368.3mm) ~2900g)
    More clearance measurements )

    • Rims: 100mm wide, outside width of rim is 101.75mm
    • 36 spokes (not 32), straight gauge 1.8mm
      .
    • stock front wheel: 3636g
    • stock front, no rubber: 2226g
    • stock tube: ~705g (yes, that's one tube)
    • stock tire: ~2830g (yes, that's one tire)
    • stock rim tape: ~101g (one)
    • rim cutouts: 1.5" round with 1" round by valves, save ~203g per rim
      .
    • stock tire diameter 29.375", 373.06mm radius
    • Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
      ...width of the stock front tire at 14 PSI - the widest point measures at 4 9/16 inches (4.5625")
    • original stock tire tread
    • Surly Endo (3.7") & original stock Dolo tire (on a Beast - same rim as Dolo)
      .
    • tread/q-factor, crank-to-chainstay clearances
      .
    • chain ring 36T
    • freewheel (not a cassette), 7 speed, 14-16-18-20-22-24-28T.
      37.8 through 75.5 Gear Inches
      3.01 to 6.03 Meters of Development,
      stock 170mm cranks giving 2.82 to 5.64 gain ratio
    • derailer photo I
    • derailer photo II
    • stock shifter
      .
    • spindle is 189mm
    • bottom bracket shell is 100mm [s]<del>"about 175mm"</del> [/s]
      WARNING! someone got a newer Dolo with a 110 mm bb
      https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...l#post13955103
    • crank arm: 170mm, 219g
    • stock pedal: 197g
    • pedal, crank arm, spider & chain ring (36T) with plastic chainring guard each side, for 648g. Non-drive side: crank arm & pedal, 219g + 197g for 416g. Total: 1064g, or 2.35 lbs.
    • stock chainring (at bottom)
      .
    • hubs/spread: front 135mm, rear 190mm
    • stock front hub, 522g
    • discs are 160mm
    • don't know if the front brake tabs on the 135 front are '135 front tabs' or '135 rear tabs'
    • brake photos
    • stock lever
      .
    • seat post 266g, is 10.5" below the seat clamp
    • seat post, painted, is labelled 028. The diameter ranges between 28.35mm and 28.50mm, typically 28.45mm; call it 28.6
    • seat 423g
      .
    • headset is 1 1/8" threadless
    • steerer tube 1 1/8"
    • bars 497g, clamp 25.0mm
    Last edited by Canoe; 12-20-2019 at 09:50 AM.

  16. #16
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    Photo showing measurement points.
    NOTE: photo was taken with a wide angle lens, fork turned, etc.. It is impossible for a photo to be "on axis" for every part of the bike, so do not try to do a relative measurement of the photo nor take angles off the photo and expect them to work.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-gemoetry.jpg

  17. #17
    7up
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    Very nice and good luck with your new ride.Still waiting for mine.

  18. #18
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    Grabbed a couple of shots when I took the Dolo outside today for a side shot for the measurements. In the sun, it's too contrasty to bother trying to get good detail shots. But here's a few to show what it can.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-drive-side.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-rear-wheel-ls.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-rear-wheel-rs-top.jpg

  19. #19
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    Are the brake housings full length?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    NOTE: photo was taken with a wide angle lens, fork turned, etc.. It is impossible for a photo to be "on axis" for every part of the bike, so do not try to do a relative measurement of the photo nor take angles off the photo and expect them to work.
    I thought about that too. Just for the sake of stating it, it may be possible to get reasonably correct angles off a photo if you use a telephoto lens and stand way back. I have an 800 mm equivalent lens on my Nikon V1 so if I backed up a few hundred feet it might be pretty orthographic, if that's the right word.
    All I am saying is give pizza chants

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravelo View Post
    Are the brake housings full length?
    • Front brake cable -- fully housed to the caliper.
    • Rear brake cable -- housed, except where it runs on the underside of the top tube, running open between stops at each end, exposed to crap up off of the front wheel, with only the down tube to shield it.
    • Shift Cable -- housed from shifter to a stop under the top tube, open running beside the rear brake cable to its stop, then after a short housing over to a stop on the drive-side seat stay, runs open straight down the seat stay to a stop, then housed to take it to the derailer.

    (~edit.: at least on this Dolo)


    Mark_BC
    yes, standing off and optical zooming in would give a more accurate on-axis image, but only more accurate, not accurate. But even with the snow to reflect light into the shadows, with the direct sunlight the contrast was too high to make that worth doing today. Look how hard it is to pick out detail in those photographs.

  22. #22
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    This might help...

    These photos might help to undefined illustrate some differences in the frame layout between the Beast and Dolomite.

    As orthographically as possible (yeah, that's the right term, hehe), I've put a Beast (in red) behind a Dolomite. The angle is not perfect, obviously, but you can see some clear differences that backup what Canoe has basically already said...

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20140306_153447.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20140306_184804.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20140306_184921.jpg

    What may not be obvious is that the wheelbase on the Dolomite is almost an inch longer.

    In the photo of the two BBs, the rear axles are lined up, so you can see how far aft the BB on the Dolomite has moved. The chain/seat stays are shorter, and the top/bottom tubes are longer.

    The head tube on the Dolomite is much lower, and almost an inch forward of the Beast's head tube. So, the forks are shorter as well.

    In the rear shot of the bikes, you can see that the Dolomite's rear dropouts are significantly farther apart than the Beast's.

    I also think that the Dolomite's rear rim is not centered between the hub's flanges (is that called asymmetrical lacing?) to make room for a 7-sp freewheel.

    On the new frame, the BB is farther aft, and the head tube is slightly forward, so my feet don't rub on the front tire like they sometimes do on the Beast, while pedaling through a turn.

    I did a test ride with my brother, switching back and forth. We rode mainly on tarmac, and a bit on grass. We were hard-pressed to pick a favorite, handling-wise. The obvious differences are the bars, the brakes, and the gears. The Dolomite has its "upgrades" over its predecessor, and the Beast has raw simplicity on its side.

    I honestly don't know yet which one I like better..
    Last edited by Voltaggio; 03-09-2014 at 09:29 AM.

  23. #23
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    heck yeah man. make sure and give some ride reports and pix!!
    two wheel livin'..

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    Re: The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    I had the Beast - changed the rear cog, quill stem, pedals, and handlebar. It was heavy so I never rode it on the trail - didn't want to walk up the hills.

    I sold it and bought a Framed Minnesota 2.0. I was surprised how much less it weighed compared to the beast. The weight of the Minnesota feels like my Trek HiFi full suspension 29er.

    I was going to buy a second set of wheels for the Minnesota but it looks like I can buy a Dolomite for the same price as the wheels. Any idea how much the Dolomite weighs? How does it compare to the beast it terms of weight?

  25. #25
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    The shipping waybill says 49 lbs..
    Bathroom scales say the bike is 50 lbs.., but it does have a tiny front light and some dirt on it now...

    When I get the time, I'm going to pull the tires and weigh them and the tube. Going to try split-tube tubeless to see how that rolls with losing the inner tube.

    I took near 4.5 lbs. off my Beast with a DH tube and a Larry on the front, along with a token contribution from a drilled rim. Do front & back, for near 9 lbs. off. (assuming it's the same tire & tube weight as the Beast).

  26. #26
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    The Dolomite is slightly heavier due the the new components. Other than the bars and stem, I don't think there are any weight-saving changes since the Beast. If the Beast bothered you, chances are the Dolomite will too. Honestly, I'm used to really good equipment too. I raced and rode BMX back in the day, I've ridden my Ducatis on many race tracks, and I have built lots of high performance machinery in the last 30+ years...I get it.

    To me, the Beastomites are not like about that. The bikes wear a Mongoose badge, but they are not the bikes I raced as a youth. These bikes are about access to a segment of a sport that has a high price to access. These bikes are so cheap that they will bring new riders in the sport...that's mostly great...new riders can change public awareness and grease the wheels of progress. If more riders want to access public spaces, laws can change to allow that -- more bike lanes, more trails, etc. More people to buy components means that manufacturers may make more components. More riders may mean more cool people to share the sport with. More riders may mean that more of us get off the couch and get into the wind.

    At any rate...do you get what you get what you pay for with the Beastomites? Yes and no. Sure, the bikes are ridiculously cheap and you have to expect/accept many shortcuts. But are they really that bad? If I'm used to the high-grade machinery, these may seem inferior by comparison, but in my opinion, they are far more competent than their price would suggest. For the cost of a set of good Surly's skins, you get a WHOLE bike.

    Yeah, I know, you can get a cheap fatty elsewhere too...what $700-800? That's a deterrent for people who don't already know what you know. Say they buy a $200 Beastomite, ride it, then start to figure out its shortcomings, and if they want to mod it. They may mod it to the point where they've spent the same money or more anyways...so what? They have got a bike they built and they may LOVE. Is an $800 bike finished? No...it will probably have some weak stuff, and some marginal stuff too.

    My point is, we're all bikers, and biking is a sport that thrives when shared. It's healthy to share ideas. If you're lucky, smart, rich, and/or you eat Top Ramen and make other sacrifices to buy the good stuff because you are a good rider, wanna be a good rider, or you just want every advantage, that's awesome! Not everyone does that. The Beastomite rider...that person may just become a new great friend...that person may be the tipping point to open some new snow trails, ya nevah know.

    Who do people count on in a zombie apocalypse? Darryl Dixon! The Beastomites are the Darryl Dixons of the FatBike world!

    /rant

  27. #27
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    Well said and well done, Volt. I like your style. I hope all your Beastomite dreams and visions of the future come true. Except the zombie apocalypse.

  28. #28
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    I'm one of those people that bought a beast after not owning a bike since I was a kid...now I'm buying either a Sun Spider or a Origin8 Crawler

  29. #29
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    I modded my Beast to It's practical limits and loved it. Just got a new Pugs on a bro deal and getting used to it. Working my way up to carbon and/or suspension Fattie someday. The beast was good training and progression keeps me enthused.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    Well said and well done, Volt. I like your style. I hope all your Beastomite dreams and visions of the future come true. Except the zombie apocalypse.
    Thanks you for the kind words, perhaps I gotten wiser with the years...I still obsess over details and efficiency, but I've come to realize that there are other factors at play and not everyone is as crazy as me.

    I'm like shank3r in that I've come back to bicycles after a long time away. I've worked on some great bikes lately, and I caught the bug again. But carving a grand (or three) out of a budget built for a family of 4 probably to buy/build a baddazz fattie would keep me bike-less for some time. The Beast seemed like a cheap way back...and it's much better than the pricetag would suggest -- which ain't saying much, but I work with what I've got, and create miracles where I can!

    I picked up a Dolomite as well, because, well, it was...you know...more...and still cheap...yeah, I know. My plan was to electrify one, or both, and sell one, or maybe use one for a sidehack mod of the other...or I'll sell one and make a sidehack out of a Massif, I dunno...in uncharted waters here...it'll be cool though!

    BTW, I treat the zombie apocalypse kinda like the CDC (CDC EPR | Social Media | Preparedness 101: Zombie Apocalypse). I really don't think there will be one...earthquakes and hurricanes are a lot more likely, but hey, if you're ready for a zombie apocalypse, you're ready for anything!

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElliotN View Post
    Hey there. Me, I use a BMX handlebar, leaned back a little. That's what makes me able to ride at all. You might want to try that, Canoe.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-beast-stock-cruiser-bars-adjustable-stem.jpg

    That's my stock Beast with cruiser bars & and adjustable stem. Once I go for the drop-back seat-post:
    a BMX bar may work with the right stem. With the bar in the photo, doing a 180 with the stem may be enough for the Beast and the Dolo, or I may end up using the fully curved cruiser bars I have laying around. A BMX bar would certainly provide a nicer hand position, and much easier to do the power pull/crank when a drop-back seat post provides somewhat of a crank-forward geometry. Perhaps the curved cruiser for the Beast and a BMX for the Dolo... I'll have to check out their sizes, and clamp.

  32. #32
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    I was hitting my heels on the chain stays a few times.
    I got curious.

    Tread/Q-factor

    Beast
    (mine)
    Dolo - orig
    release March 2014
    (mine)
    Dolo - newer
    late summer/fall 2014 to ___
    (CrackerJim)
    Tread / Q-factor 9 1/2" 9 23/32" 253mm (9.96")
    outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim 7" 8 3/16" 191mm (7.52")
    rear axle center to crank shaft center 19 29/32" 18 3/4" 475mm (18.7")
    rear axle center to pedal center ~13 1/8" ~12" 310mm (12.2")
    clearance, chain stay to crank arm LH 24.45mm
    RH 20.0mm
    LH 9mm
    RH 8mm
    LH ?
    RH 17mm
    wheelbase 43 15/16" 44 1/2" 45 1/4"

    Additional numbers for the 2nd gen Dolo at http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dol...l#post11809990
    Last edited by Canoe; 02-05-2019 at 05:27 PM.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Photo showing measurement points.
    NOTE: photo was taken with a wide angle lens, fork turned, etc.. It is impossible for a photo to be "on axis" for every part of the bike, so do not try to do a relative measurement of the photo nor take angles off the photo and expect them to work.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow, thanks for the great info! :-)
    DaveH
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    '13 9:ZERO:7
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    Canoe,

    Can you comment on the bike components? Drivetrain (number of teeth, crank length, quality of pedals), stem length, hub widths. What brand are the brakes? Do you think that we can get replacement pads? How long is the seat post? 27.2mm diameter? Schrader valves? How about the shifter? Does it work?

    Thanks!

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    Hows the bottom bracket and crank? I know that the Beast had some issues with the crank. I wonder if that was fixed?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieseli View Post
    Canoe,

    Can you comment on the bike components? Drivetrain (number of teeth, crank length, quality of pedals), stem length, hub widths. What brand are the brakes? Do you think that we can get replacement pads? How long is the seat post? 27.2mm diameter? Schrader valves? How about the shifter? Does it work?

    Thanks!
    it's a $225 bicycle from Wally-World. The components are going to be garbage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    it's a $225 bicycle from Wally-World. The components are going to be garbage.
    Understand. I want to know what I am starting with so that is does not become a $500 "$225 bicycle from Wally world". If so, I would just rather buy a $500 bike.

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    if you have a spare parts bin to work out of it's not a bad deal. 100mm bb, 190 rear hubs spacing. it doesn't need the 100mm rims though. a vee rubber snow shoe is going to be the largest tire that will fit. and from what i have read that tire works better on a narrower rim.

  39. #39
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    Putting good parts on a Walgoose is like hot-rodding an AMC Pacer. No matter what you put on it, it's still a Walgoose, it's still heavier than a bicycle has a right to be and it still has its inherent flaws, just with some shinier bits.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    Putting good parts on a Walgoose is like hot-rodding an AMC Pacer. No matter what you put on it, it's still a Walgoose, it's still heavier than a bicycle has a right to be and it still has its inherent flaws, just with some shinier bits.
    Here is a link of a friend's Pacer X he built for his daughter.

    1976 Amc Pacer X Harrel Lamkin Photo 7

    It won Hot Rod Editor's Choice on the Power Tour. I really can't remember the year.

    Galen

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    Putting good parts on a Walgoose is like hot-rodding an AMC Pacer. No matter what you put on it, it's still a Walgoose, it's still heavier than a bicycle has a right to be and it still has its inherent flaws, just with some shinier bits.
    Now you are just getting carried away. You shouldn't really care what bike they are riding or how much they spent on it. Do what you want, and spend $$ on what makes you happy. Yes, it is a Wal Mart bike, and the stern opinions and feelings towards them is what drives the hate for the bike.

    If your lbs had the exclusive rights to sell it, you would not hate it nearly as much. Not saying you wouldn't dispise it, but you wouldn't shit your pants with anger when you heard it's name mentioned.

  42. #42
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    If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.
    Last edited by Gigantic; 03-11-2014 at 05:02 AM.

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    Is it a cassette or freewheel on the rear wheel?

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    I'm def thinking about buying this, drilling out the wheels, upgrading crank/derailleur, and new stem and bars. I hope that its running a cassette but I know i'm just dreaming. I'd like to get it under 45lbs....think that's possible?

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    You can probably save 8-9 lbs. by just changing tires and tubes. With the other mods you've mentioned, the weight will likely be under 40. I believe it's a freewheel on the hub.

  46. #46
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    Anyone pulled and weighed the cranks and BB yet? I bet there is a lot of weight to be saved there.

    And before anyone lambasts me for upgrading a $200 bike, I have bins of parts that have long since been paid for.
    The leg bone's connected to the Cash Bone!

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    I'd probably be buying new parts but i figure it'll still be less than 500 total. I'm really surprised wal mart came out with a bike like this. The best part about it is you can actually upgrade things. I'm thinking bb7's some orgin8 fat bike tires, drilling the holes myself and maybe going tubeless. Should be interesting to say the least. I just can't justify spending thousands on a surly or salsa for a "fun" bike. Maybe if I had an unlimited income id splurge and get something like that.

  48. #48
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    Front brake started dragging. It was a quick adjustment to the caliper.
    Front & rear discs are labeled 160 mm.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-rear-brake.jpg

    (orange cast is reflection from my coat)
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-front-brake.jpg

  49. #49
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    Colour is nice.
    Paint run just to right of center in the photo (top of down tube, very close to head tube, tucked in under the top tube). Otherwise, the paint is done nicely.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-colour-run.jpg

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    Doesn't look half bad...what kind of calipers are those? Any idea of what the stand over is?

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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-brake-logo.jpg

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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-rear-derailer.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-right-grip-controls.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-crank-arms-pedals.jpg

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    Why on earth do we have to justify anything we do to something we own? It's your bike...to quote ShockG, "Doowhatchalike."

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    canoe, thanks for posting all these pics!

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    welcome

    I figure it's important that anyone considering getting one of these knows what they're getting.

    p.s.
    I drive an AMC Eagle. The 258's been baked, re-centered, mild over-bore, balanced, wide-band high-torque cam, upgraded HO head, HD valve springs, upgraded carb, HV coil & ignition module, 8.8 silicone wires, large core rad. And a swamp-cooler for those long trips.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat85 View Post
    ... Any idea of what the stand over is?
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dol...l#post11049929
    Last edited by Canoe; 02-05-2019 at 05:29 PM.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    I can change the stem. I can't change my back.
    I had back surgery back in '99 herniated disc so I doubt that your back is any worse than mine. I found that leaning forward over the bike makes my back feel better, not worse.
    This set up that you have .. so much more straight upwards actually puts more stress (pounding) on the lower back going over a bump. I advise that you set the stem and bars properly and give it a try for about a month or more.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.
    Yup ..

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    Some room to save weight for sure. But still just a hi ten steel frame and fork. Hit a few good jumps and that fork is done for. Also would be concerned with buckling at the top and down tubes and also at the brake side seat stay. Any gussets on there?

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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    kris7047th, Thanks for your suggestion, but my issue isn't a herniated disc, and the back is only one issue. Between the fat tires & sitting upright I can ride. Without them, two minutes is around the limit, and I pay afterwards.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    The shipping waybill says 49 lbs..
    Bathroom scales say the bike is 50 lbs.., but it does have a tiny front light and some dirt on it now...

    When I get the time, I'm going to pull the tires and weigh them and the tube. Going to try split-tube tubeless to see how that rolls with losing the inner tube.

    I took near 4.5 lbs. off my Beast with a DH tube and a Larry on the front, along with a token contribution from a drilled rim. Do front & back, for near 9 lbs. off. (assuming it's the same tire & tube weight as the Beast).
    HOLY CRAP that is HEAVY !! My Pugs weighed only 35 lbs stock. The Pugsley frame is steel also.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-photo.jpg The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-photo.jpg

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    kris7047th, Thanks for your suggestion, but my issue isn't a herniated disc, and the back is only one issue. Between the fat tires & sitting upright I can ride. Without them, two minutes is around the limit, and I pay afterwards.
    Bummer about your back. Like I said in a thread I started I am healing from a broken pelvis which has aggravated my lower back as well. I dunno .. a bike that heavy. Have you lowered the PSI in your tires? That will help smooth out the bumps considerably and ease any stress on your back.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tracer650 View Post
    Any gussets on there?
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-frame-crop.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo-seat-tube-bb.jpg

  64. #64
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    thank you so much for the pictures and info, it has swayed me. i will totally pick one of these up if i get the chance.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  65. #65
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    I can sympathize with Canoe about his cranky back. Me, I cannot ride leaning forward, because then I have to bend my neck up to see where I'm going, which pinches a nerve in my cranky neck, and my right arm "falls off". So I use a BMX bar and a cruiser saddle on a full suspension bike, and I can get around all right. My 2 cents. :-)

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by kris7047th View Post
    HOLY CRAP that is HEAVY !! My Pugs weighed only 35 lbs stock.
    Yup.
    Loose around ~9 lbs going to 120 tpi Surly & DH tube on front & rear. Another ~400g saved if you 1.5" hole the rims... plus containing rim tape. Cranks will be heavy, but won't get you into Pugs range.

    From Beast rim. Note that centered between nipples/holes, that the other side's string of holes is not exactly alined. Not material to its requirements, but not optimum either.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-1.5-inch-hole-template-beast-stock-100mm-rims.jpg

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElliotN View Post
    ... So I use a BMX bar and a cruiser saddle on a full suspension bike, and I can get around all right. My 2 cents. :-)
    I checked the spacing today. I suspect a BMX bar will be ideal for me, with or without the drop-back seat post. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by kris7047th View Post
    ... I dunno .. a bike that heavy. Have you lowered the PSI in your tires? That will help smooth out the bumps considerably and ease any stress on your back.
    It's both bumps (degree and their character) and the stress. The fat tires, tested from 3 psi to 25 psi on Larrys and Endos, do their part fine for taking care of the bumps. Without fat, I can't ride without significant pain. A Beast with a 120 tpi Surly front is fine.
    Remaining is a position issue, nothing to do with bumps. I need to be upright.
    Heavy? Yes. But I get to ride. Priceless.
    And I'm certainly not racing. Nor going any of the places I used to take a bike long before there were these strange things called Mountain Bikes.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    thank you so much for the pictures and info, it has swayed me. i will totally pick one of these up if i get the chance.
    But not for what's in your avatar, right?

  69. #69
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    Hard bumps can jar the back and neck. I also have compression in my neck but that issue is minor compared to my back and knees. I have had two knee surgeries on the left knee .. '77 had reconstruction and miraculously it has held up all of these years.

    Have you test ridden a Surly Pugsley or another fat bike like the Kona at a LBS? You may be surprised the ride that you will experience, and if you do the same weight shaving mods you will get the bike ridiculously lower = a better ride and easier to manage. Even when you do shave off 10 lbs on the goose or whatever .. by the time you add fenders (who wants to get a wet mud strip up their back going through puddles?) a seat bag with tools and gear it will get right back up there.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by kris7047th View Post
    Have you test ridden a Surly Pugsley or another fat bike like the Kona at a LBS? ...
    Yes.
    That's how I determined that near fat was an improvement, and fat worked, but standard geometry didn't work for me.

    Yes, it's heavy.
    Heavy just means I get there later instead of sooner.

    But I get to ride.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Yes.
    That's how I determined that near fat was an improvement, and fat worked, but standard geometry didn't work for me.

    Yes, it's heavy.
    Heavy just means I get there later instead of sooner.

    But I get to ride.
    I hear you on that! I also was diagnosed with severe Osteoporosis several years ago .. effecting my left hip mostly. Through a nasal med back then and now through diet I have been able to keep it checked at moderate. When I fractured my pelvis 8 weeks ago, the doctor believed I had RE fractured it (1st time 1989) So this time was a little scary for me at my age of 63 and 125 lbs 5'5" lady .. would it heal properly and would I be able to ride again which I need to do for my health to keep my bones strong .. enjoy getting outside? This ran through my mind as I dealt getting around on crutches in pain, the difficulty of sleeping at night because the fracture would not allow me to sleep on either side. So I would wake up with miserable lower back pain on the hour. I don't know what was worse .. the fracture or my back .. lol .. 8 weeks later it is all behind me YAY !!
    .......................

    Still .. I can't stress enough to visit a reputable bike shop. Let them know of your disabilities and they will measure you and fit you to a bike that won't hurt you down the road.

  72. #72
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    Have you given thought about a Ritchey adjustable stem? This is what was put on my Trek 520, recommended by my friend who manages a bike shop and I ordered my bike through.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-photo.jpg The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-photo.jpg

    This bike is my pride & joy. My friend whom I ordered this through (a Trek dealer) did upgrades/orders with physical my issues in mind. I LOVE this bike. The Ritchey stem brings the bars up and a bit closer to me for a more upright position .. and it has adjustable positions.

  73. #73
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    Yup. BMX bars and an adjustable stem. I was aiming for the Ritchey, due to the way it secures the adjustment (haven't found anything close yet). Haven't determined if 100mm or 120mm will be required.
    I will be going for a drop-back seat post too.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Can the stickers be removed?

    How long is the seatpost? Is it 27.2mm?

    Thanks for all the info!

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Yup. BMX bars and an adjustable stem. I was aiming for the Ritchey, due to the way it secures the adjustment (haven't found anything close yet). Haven't determined if 100mm or 120mm will be required.
    I will be going for a drop-back seat post too.
    Dayum .. a good post will cost more than what you paid for the bike!

  76. #76
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    Man, for $225 I may pick one of those up myself if they ever come back in.
    I can't justify Pugsly money for the couple times a year I might ride a fat bike but I can justify $225.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post
    Man, for $225 I may pick one of those up myself if they ever come back in.
    I can't justify Pugsly money for the couple times a year I might ride a fat bike but I can justify $225.
    HUH ?? Where do you get the fat bike is just a winter seasonal bike? Use your imagination and ride it whenever and WHEREVER. My Pugsley is great on city asphalt streets and a blast to ride .. and I can go places where my non-fatbike friends can't. Fortunately one friend is looking into getting .. probably a Mukluk hopefully sooner than later. He was so pumped when I told him that I bought the Pugs.

    Sorry .. but your excuse not investing in a Pugsley just doesn't hold water. I am riding my Pugs year around, not just in the winter.

  78. #78
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    It isn't an excuse, it is a reason. There is a difference.
    I know you can take a fat bike anywhere but my passion is not in owning a fat bike.

    FYI, I can also take my 29er in the snow. It does great in hard pack. It just didn't do so hot on the climbs when there was 4" on the ground. Still me and a friend were the tracks that day.

    Glad you like your Pugsly so much. You should, you bought it. However why does it seem to bother you so much that somebody could have just as much fun on a a bike that cost 1/10 the price or just doesn't need a bike of that caliber?
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post
    It isn't an excuse, it is a reason. There is a difference.
    I know you can take a fat bike anywhere but my passion is not in owning a fat bike.

    FYI, I can also take my 29er in the snow. It does great in hard pack. It just didn't do so hot on the climbs when there was 4" on the ground. Still me and a friend were the tracks that day.

    Glad you like your Pugsly so much. You should, you bought it. However why does it seem to bother you so much that somebody could have just as much fun on a a bike that cost 1/10 the price or just doesn't need a bike of that caliber?
    Well your reason was flawed. But if you don't want one .. that's different. You read me wrong. I have no problem with you enjoying whatever you buy, but there are those reading these forums looking for advice or just trying to figure which way to go. To infer that fat bikes are just good for winter just isn't so. To each their own .. but lets be honest what fat bikes can do.

  80. #80
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    Quote Originally Posted by kris7047th View Post
    Well your reason was flawed. But if you don't want one .. that's different. You read me wrong. I have no problem with you enjoying whatever you buy, but there are those reading these forums looking for advice or just trying to figure which way to go. To infer that fat bikes are just good for winter just isn't so. To each their own .. but lets be honest what fat bikes can do.
    Give it a rest! It's damn bike not a cult!
    The leg bone's connected to the Cash Bone!

  81. #81
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    I am aware of what they can do and also aware of what I personally want it for if I ever get one. If I get one, I me be able to justify spending up to $1k on it but not $2k+. Even then, it would be hard for me to justify that since I don't make a lot of money.
    I don't have that in any of my bikes and I ride the piss out of them and certainly would not spend it on a bike that would get ridden the least.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post
    I am aware of what they can do and also aware of what I personally want it for if I ever get one. If I get one, I me be able to justify spending up to $1k on it but not $2k+. Even then, it would be hard for me to justify that since I don't make a lot of money.
    I don't have that in any of my bikes and I ride the piss out of them and certainly would not spend it on a bike that would get ridden the least.
    Umm .. I didn't spend $2,000. Got this way cheaper through REI, kids gave me a REI $200 gift card for Christmas, already had $111 coming back from REI in year end dividends AND since I ordered this bike days before Jan 1 and financed the bike on my REI Visa card I got 15% kick back dividend around $260 on top of everything else to cash out this month to apply to the bill. So after all was applied the final amount was around $1,100 for a $1,750 bike (including tax)
    You just have to know how to work it to save big on a better bike.

    I don't make a lot either .. retired on Soc Sec and drawing on an annuity to supplement. But I won't waste my money on a bike that won't last long. Did that before and learned my lesson .. was a wasted $200 plus bike that I rode maybe five times. It was not a fun bike to ride. I hated it. Had I the opportunity to test ride it .. I never would have bought it.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat85 View Post
    ...what kind of calipers are those? ...
    JAK-5, black, white, orange
    Detail:
    1. Casting alloy, one-piece design caliper body
    2. Optional spherical washer adapting structure, easy for caliper adjustment and mounting
    3. Mounting type:International standard mounting type & Post mounting type
    4. Compatable adapter : K1, K2, L1, L2, L3

    Next: can we buy pads for these?
    (other than in bulk from alibaba or aliexpress)

  84. #84
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    Nice Bike! I come close to getting a beast before ordering my On One. Probably would have gotten the Dolemite...sure looks to be a big improvement. I know what you are talking about in needing the upright position...it's all about comfort to me. I've change the bars of my Sawyer & Kona to Metropolis bars & ordered the On One with the On One Marys ....45 degree sweeps. Use to have adjustable stems on them also. Got a long set back seat post from Velo Orange on my Kona. Just got a tall nitto stem for my road bike for more upright riding on it! I've never cared that much about weight until I got this fat bike though....Just got it within a 1/2 lb of my Sawyer at 33lbs. Just makes it easy throwing it in the back of the truck. Fatty carbon fork coming in April!



    You should have no problem getting it under 40lbs.
    I'm about to order the 40+ lb Massif for my daughter...hopefully I can nock about 10 off of it!
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  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by kris7047th View Post
    Umm .. I didn't spend $2,000. Got this way cheaper through REI, kids gave me a REI $200 gift card for Christmas, already had $111 coming back from REI in year end dividends AND since I ordered this bike days before Jan 1 and financed the bike on my REI Visa card I got 15% kick back dividend around $260 on top of everything else to cash out this month to apply to the bill. So after all was applied the final amount was around $1,100 for a $1,750 bike (including tax)
    You just have to know how to work it to save big on a better bike.

    I don't make a lot either .. retired on Soc Sec and drawing on an annuity to supplement. But I won't waste my money on a bike that won't last long. Did that before and learned my lesson .. was a wasted $200 plus bike that I rode maybe five times. It was not a fun bike to ride. I hated it. Had I the opportunity to test ride it .. I never would have bought it.
    I don't know if your persistence is because you love your bike so much that you think everyone should have one or because you are just so damn thick headed.

    Whether you realize it or not, you are being an elitist.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

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    I was done after that post anyways.

    Back to the original topic and my original post in it.

    Nice bike dude, for $225 I may pic one up myself when they get back in stock.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post

    for $225 I may pic one up myself when they get back in stock.
    Looks like they are back in stock but the price went up $75
    26" Mongoose Dolomite Mens Fat Tire Mountain Bike, Navy Blue/Red: Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com
    2018 Trek Stache 7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post
    Man, for $225 I may pick one of those up myself if they ever come back in.
    I can't justify Pugsly money for the couple times a year I might ride a fat bike but I can justify $225.
    Too late. Dolomite on Walmart website is $299 now! Walmart appears to be playing Economics 101 supply and demand games. Well, guess what... customers looking at this bike are price sensitive and will not pay the new price.

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    That sucks but I have seen some fluctuations in price on the beast.
    Sometimes The Walmart site will even list the same items multiple times at different prices.
    It may come back down.

    They could be raising the price to create a false sale.

    I am in no rush anyways.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

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    At $225 they had to be losing money. Plus I'm sure the bicycle buyers for Walmart are actual bicycle people. They probably visit these forums and are reading this thread


    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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    It sold out in three days. If you were the seller, what would you do? Probably be thinking - jackpot!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tracer650 View Post
    At $225 they had to be losing money. Plus I'm sure the bicycle buyers for Walmart are actual bicycle people. They probably visit these forums and are reading this thread


    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    I highly doubt they were losing money at $225. If they wanted to price it higher they should have done it from the beginning. By introducing it at $$225 they set a price floor and customer expectations. And now we wait for the price to go back down.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post
    ... It may come back down. ...
    Don't count on seeing $225 again.
    Look at the parts on a Beast, now add shifter, derailer, gears, disc brake hubs, discs, calipers & mounts, brake levers & cables.

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    What happened to "Save money, live better."

    We all want to live better.

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    Glad the price went up; now it'll be a little easier to eschew something I don't need in socal.

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    It will probably go on sale at some point in the future but that weak freewheel axle, cheesy BB/crankset and ridiculously heavy tires make it useless to me even as a "project" bike.
    The new low end fatties from Bikesdirict coming out this summer are a much better investment IMO.
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  97. #97
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    I agree, if you are going to try and upgrade it, you are kind of shooting yourself in the foot.
    If you want a cheap bike, get a cheap bike, ride it and love it for what it is. Just don't try and turn it in to an expensive bike.

    Now if you have old parts laying around collecting dust as many of us do then sure, put them to good use.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieseli View Post
    Can the stickers be removed?
    How long is the seatpost? Is it 27.2mm?
    Stickers can be removed.
    But once you get the bike in front of you, stop and look first. They're nicely done and make a great contrast to the paint. Once off, you can't put them back on.
    (I always remove the stickers from bikes, even before I grease the bearings and adjust the brakes. These I've left on. This probably won't last, but I can't bring myself to do it.)

    Seat post measures 10.5" below the seat clamp.
    Post is labelled 028. The diameter of the painted seat post measures between 28.35mm and 28.50mm, typically 28.45mm (to nearest .05).

  99. #99
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    I am guessing he is more interested in removing the stickers so people don't know it is a Mongoose and looks/contrast have little to di with it.
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kjlued View Post
    I am guessing he is more interested in removing the stickers so people don't know it is a Mongoose and looks/contrast have little to di with it.
    No, he removes the stickers so you wont cry when he rides past you on the trail and you realize he only paid $225, while your pedaling $8k of depreciating expectations.

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  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTrek View Post
    No, he removes the stickers so you wont cry when he rides past you on the trail and you realize he only paid $225, while your pedaling $8k of depreciating expectations.

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    Pugsley decal set is only $15, so you can have a Dologley or Pugsmite for $240.

  102. #102
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    BTW, there is a video on YouTube of a guy removing stickers from the Dolo and it is very easy. Once removed they are done for...

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Stickers can be removed.
    But once you get the bike in front of you, stop and look first. They're nicely done and make a great contrast to the paint. Once off, you can't put them back on.
    (I always remove the stickers from bikes, even before I grease the bearings and adjust the brakes. These I've left on. This probably won't last, but I can't bring myself to do it.)Seat post measures 10.5" below the seat clamp.
    Post is labelled 028. The diameter of the painted seat post measures between 28.35mm and 28.50mm, typically 28.45mm (to nearest .05).


    It looks like the post diameter is 28.6mm, the same as on the Beast. I have some 27.2mm seatposts that I will shim. Amazingly enough I found the exact shim size I need in my parts bin. No beer can will be harmed for this.

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    wow
    At $299.97 the Dolo is out of stock online already.

  105. #105
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    And the Beast gone again too...

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    And the Beast gone again too...
    you can get the Dozer from eBay, rakuten or toys r us for 187.49.
    Toys r us has a $10 coupon too. Very good deal.

  107. #107
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    Hopefully they don't up the price of the dolo anymore. I really don't think they can.

  108. #108

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    Sold out in three days at original price. Raised price $75 and sold out again in a day. Boys, I think they struck a gusher.

    Looks like a lot of people were eager to get into fat biking at an affordable price point.
    I like bikes, and turtles. Well... mostly turtles. But bikes are cool also.

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    My Mongoose Dolomite 26" - w/ fenders, 21-speed & front derailleur..

    The frame IS ALL STEEL - despite "aluminum/steel" in the description on the Walmart site.

    Below I've attached some photos of what I've done so far w/my 26" Mongoose Dolomite... These include:
    -added a 3-chain-ring crank. (now 21-speed. Cheap steel Next brand with 28-38-48 tooth rings.)
    - Added a front derailleur. (Fabricated from old stock 3-ring derailleurs - be sure not to use any with shorter "bails"(?) made for 2-ring cranks...)
    - Made & installed some fenders.
    - Added a bottle cage.
    - Added a clamp to hold a hand pump on the seat tube. (This needs to be a bigger, high-volume hand pump!)

    With this setup I have some chain rub on rear tire. Fender stays are made from 12-gauge galvanized wire (9-gauge wire would be stiffer).The fenders are fabricated from plastic landscape edging (6 inches originally w/the top & bottom removed for a 4 inch wide piece of flat stock...). Threading & routing the stays was a bit of a chore / conundrum - I only had to drill two small holes at each side on the rear of frame to fasten the wire stays w/small screws & nuts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-01-leftsd-dolomite-fenders-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-02-pump-bottlecage-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-03-rtrear-fenders_etc-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-04-frntdrllrdtl-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-05-chainrub-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-06-lkngdwn-frntdrllr-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-07-rtfrntcrnkvw-lrgr-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-08-frntfndrcollage-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-09-staybrkintrfc-12mar14-.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-10-rearbrksdstaysdtl-12mar14-.jpg  

    Last edited by rotaidalg; 04-04-2014 at 08:52 AM. Reason: add additional text to the body of post...

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
    OK, a couple of points & then some pics...
    1) This was only $225 - not $299. (Because of no sales tax in Montana?)
    2) The frame IS ALL STEEL - despite "aluminum/steel" in the description.

    Below I've attached some photos of what I've done so far w/my 26" Mongoose Dolomite... These include:
    -added a 3-chain-ring crank.
    - Added a front derailleur.
    - Made & installed some fenders.
    - Added a bottle cage.
    - Added a clamp to hold a hand pump on the seat tube.
    Hey fellow Missoulian I think you can get some better cranks (from freecycles) that might stick out more and eliminate the chain rub issue. PM me if you need a hand.
    $299 is the (new) price on that contraption BTW, will probably go on "sale" for $249.95 when the next container arrives from China.

    I still have no idea how they can manufacture/ship a bike so large and heavy to your door so cheap... boggles my mind!
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

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    Because fed ex or ups is giving them a great rate due to volume. Planes, trucks and trains have to move regardless if their full or not. Pretty sure the carrier would rather have them full.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieseli View Post
    Pugsley decal set is only $15, so you can have a Dologley or Pugsmite for $240.
    Don't remove the decals... you should be proud of what you have. Putting other bike decals on just screams "this is what I really wanted but I suck at saving money". Taking them off says "I'm embarrassed". And everyone will know what you really have under your legs. Be proud of what you have.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  114. #114
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    You sure seem to really like
    We get who you are. You don't have to keep showing us, over and over. And over. And over.

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    I can't believe how fast these things are flying off the shelves...

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    You sure seem to really like
    We get who you are. You don't have to keep showing us, over and over. And over. And over.
    Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't? It's a valid point. Be proud of what you have and leave the decals on. Otherwise you just look ashamed.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  117. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't? It's a valid point. Be proud of what you have and leave the decals on. Otherwise you just look ashamed.
    just report this user thats what i do then use ignore

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't? It's a valid point. Be proud of what you have and leave the decals on. Otherwise you just look ashamed.
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to duggus again.

  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
    OK, a couple of points & then some pics...
    1) This was only $225 - not $299. (Because of no sales tax in Montana?)
    2) The frame IS ALL STEEL - despite "aluminum/steel" in the description.

    Below I've attached some photos of what I've done so far w/my 26" Mongoose Dolomite... These include:
    -added a 3-chain-ring crank.
    - Added a front derailleur.
    - Made & installed some fenders.
    - Added a bottle cage.
    - Added a clamp to hold a hand pump on the seat tube.
    Those are simultaneously the most craptacular AND awesome fenders I have ever seen in my life- Absolutely brilliant idea. My grandfather, who believed that there was nothing in life that couldn't be fixed with bailing wire, would salute you. Ride the hell out of that thing!

    And that front derailleur is amazing.

    I stand in awe at your bodging stuff together skills. Seriously, amazing work.

  120. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Don't remove the decals... you should be proud of what you have. Putting other bike decals on just screams "this is what I really wanted but I suck at saving money". Taking them off says "I'm embarrassed". And everyone will know what you really have under your legs. Be proud of what you have.
    I doubt somebody in the market for this bike will spend $15 on stickers to make it something that it is not.

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    Does anybody know the front hub spacing?
    The rear I think is 190mm?

  122. #122
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    If I got a Pugsley I would put Mongoose stickers on it so no one would steal it!
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    I would definitely spend 15$ on stickers, I plan too when I get mine. Most likely going to get custom stickers made. I'm prolly going to drop around 200 into the bike, as well as drilling out the wheels.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't?
    Nope.
    If you're willing to repeatedly remind people what you are, go for it.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by puchcobra View Post
    just report this user thats what i do then use ignore
    Yet you are still obsessing over my posts?? But we do have one thing in common... I reported you too for that VERY CREEPY post where you found a video I had online of my son. You by far take the cake on most creepy person I have ran across on MTBR. So congrats stalking creep.

    Anyway... Enjoy your Dolomites. And to the level headed people who say they are just getting one to try and don't have a problem upgrading some day... thumbs up! There needs to be more of you and less of the haters who can't stand a different opinion than theirs. Bikes! It's serious business!
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieseli View Post
    Does anybody know the front hub spacing?
    The rear I think is 190mm?
    Can't get a precise measurement without pulling the wheel, but a rough measurement indicates a 135mm front and a 190mm rear.

    I don't know if the front tabs are for a 135 rear or a 135 front.

  127. #127
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    Yup. 135 front, 190 rear

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    ...And to the level headed people who say they are just getting one to try and don't have a problem upgrading some day...
    You expect people to make decisions on only a duggas-approved basis?

    While it would be a delight to have such a super uber high quality bike as you and your family presumably have, it is not required for what I and apparently a number of others need or want a fat bike for. Sorry that you're upset that we don't have the same requirement as you, or the funds to indulge in more bike than we need, but you'd likely stay further away from a stroke or heart attack if you chilled a little. Look after yourself so you can continue to enjoy life.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/bea...l#post11052429

    As past behavior is the greatest predictor of future behavior, I'm likely wasting my efforts in your direction, but at least you're "approving" the try-fat reason now, so perhaps there's hope.
    Last edited by Canoe; 02-05-2019 at 05:30 PM.

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    But not for what's in your avatar, right?
    Heh, no. this will stay a lot closer to the ground.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    thank you so much for the pictures and info, it has swayed me. i will totally pick one of these up if i get the chance.
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    But not for what's in your avatar, right?

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    Heh, no. this will stay a lot closer to the ground.
    Thank you!
    You didn't get back before now and you had me a little worried.

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    Well aren't you a peach

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    Re: The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    This thread is sponsored by Brawndo the Thirst Mutilator.

  133. #133
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    What about the bike?

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by puchcobra View Post
    you have zero comprehension zip nada i asked if that was a walmart toy bike that you bought for your baby mama. youtube is not creepin its public. you should know what you put out there, if not dont play poker if you cant read the room
    Houston, we have a problem...

    over. the. line.

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    Good job!

    Awesome thread. I totally want one of these as soon as they come back in stock. I own a house in Maine we use for for snowboarding and some mountain biking in the summer. I keep a crappy hybrid bike in my shed up there to use to ride around town. This would be much more fun. I could even use it in the winter on the xc trails near my house. I've had my eye on fat bikes for 2 years now, but I just won't use one to justify spending a minimum of $1k. But for less than 300 bucks this would be ideal. I could get rid of the crappy hybrid and use this instead. When the winter comes I could ride this a few times a year when I have a down day at the mountain. Maybe in the summer I could ride on some of the snowmobile/atv trails to mix it up. This would not be primary bike, so for such little money it would be a blast to have. Also, in Maine nobody cares what kind of bike you own. No bike snobs around! Thanks for all the info/links/pics!

  136. #136
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    I Agree, Mr. Doom!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Doom View Post
    Hey fellow Missoulian I think you can get some better cranks (from freecycles) that might stick out more and eliminate the chain rub issue. PM me if you need a hand.
    $299 is the (new) price on that contraption BTW, will probably go on "sale" for $249.95 when the next container arrives from China.

    I still have no idea how they can manufacture/ship a bike so large and heavy to your door so cheap... boggles my mind!
    I couldn't believe the "free shipping" either - thought I'd need to do a "ship to store" instead... I thought about either shimming the rear axle a bit on the leftside but figured it would "unbalance" the disk brake setup. In the end it just isn't that big a deal - 1 area (about 3" long) of the rear tire right side is slightly bulged - the rest of the "rub" is just the little rubber knobs from the molding process - I actually usually stay 3rd-sprocket to small or middle chain-ring - pretty much like I ride my old Schwinn High-Plains "road" bike... I KNOW the gear-inches have to be higher due to larger outside diameter of those big tires - but it just hasn't been too noticeable yet. (The gyroscope effect of all that rotating mass sure is noticeable though! Gil at Missoula Free-Cycle thought I'd an over-tight headset! I let Gil test it out yesterday afternoon while I helped a neighbor set up a small bike for his son.)

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
    I couldn't believe the "free shipping" either - thought I'd need to do a "ship to store" instead... I thought about either shimming the rear axle a bit on the leftside but figured it would "unbalance" the disk brake setup. In the end it just isn't that big a deal - 1 area (about 3" long) of the rear tire right side is slightly bulged - the rest of the "rub" is just the little rubber knobs from the molding process - I actually usually stay 3rd-sprocket to small or middle chain-ring - pretty much like I ride my old Schwinn High-Plains "road" bike... I KNOW the gear-inches have to be higher due to larger outside diameter of those big tires - but it just hasn't been too noticeable yet. (The gyroscope effect of all that rotating mass sure is noticeable though! Gil at Missoula Free-Cycle thought I'd an over-tight headset! I let Gil test it out yesterday afternoon while I helped a neighbor set up a small bike for his son.)
    I can see Gil rocking it on one of those at bike polo...
    Last edited by Mr. Doom; 03-14-2014 at 05:25 AM.
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  138. #138
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    Facebook has group called Mongoose Fatbikes that discusses the Beast & Dolomite as well. https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/

    some good upgrade info & mods people have done. just wish it was in stock online to buy. and at $225 price


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    2013 Walmart Mongoose Beast blue


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  139. #139
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    Price is up to 350$....still sold out. I wonder how much they're going to raise it.

  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    While it would be a delight to have such a super uber high quality bike as you and your family presumably have, it is not required for what I and apparently a number of others need or want a fat bike for.
    Let's be clear... I worked and saved up for every bike that I have and my girlfriend did the same. I've built my 29er and Moonlander up from frame... over the course of a year, and added new things as money would allow. I work full time AND run my own design biz on the side to make money to support the things I like. I could get into a society rant here about how no one wants to work or save for anything anymore... but I won't.

    SO SORRY that I told you your stem was on wrong and backwards... that was so terrible of me, right? I take it back... that is the correct way to set up a bike and is awesome. I'm sure the stem on backwards geometry won't hurt your back or cause any further damage. Ride on cowboy.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    I've built my 29er and Moonlander up from frame... over the course of a year, and added new things as money would allow.
    What part of "Not everyone's requirements match your own" don't you understand?
    The leg bone's connected to the Cash Bone!

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw2jr View Post
    What part of "Not everyone's requirements match your own" don't you understand?
    I was clarifying how I obtained my quote "super uber high quality bikes" (A steel Moonlander? Jesus, it's not like I'm on a carbon fatty) and pointing out how hard work can get you the "better" things in life. I started mountain biking on a Schwinn. It was a pile and I new that, but I didn't go into forums claiming it was the holy grail of bikes and everyone else who spent more was idiots. I new it was crap. I saved up and got a little better bike. Rode that, sold it, saved up more and got even better... etc etc.

    And I've said many times I don't give an absolute crap what you guys ride... but I have every right to defend myself against ridiculous comments.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  143. #143
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    OK .. my last post on this. I have back issues that required surgery several years ago, bad knees too. Has anyone given thought to if you have physical health issues that limit capabilities like me that an overly HEAVY bike might cause you further injury? I know I would have problems trying to safely manage a bike that heavy over obstacles, bumps in the road .. could be an accident waiting. Something to think about. Just be happy and SAFE with your ride.

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    ...And I've said many times I don't give an absolute crap what you guys ride...
    And yet you keep posting the same or similar over and over.
    In threads you say aren't worth your time, yet you keep spending time.

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    ...SO SORRY that I told you your stem was on wrong and backwards... that was so terrible of me, right? I take it back... that is the correct way to set up a bike and is awesome. I'm sure the stem on backwards geometry won't hurt your back or cause any further damage. Ride on cowboy.
    This again?

    You made a knee-jerk post, shooting from the hip with a cutting post, without bothering to read my whole post (the very first of this thread), where clearly under the photo was my apologizing for having the stem on backwards, and explaining why I did so.
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    (sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)
    You made a duffus out of yourself with a cutting comment. Too late, too bad, so sad. It's over. Move on. You're free! Fly! Go live! It Doesn't matter.
    No skin off my back, but do you really want to (need to?) keep reminding people of what you did? Is this healthy?

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.
    Oh please. A $1,000 fat bike just isn't worth even trying to a lot of people, whether they can afford it or not. This opens the door and lets people try it out. Given the way fat bikes are typically ridden you actually think this thing is "dangerous and likely to kill someone?" Hell, if the head tube snapped off the frame at 10mph on a slightly bumpy sandy trail, your feet will hit the ground, stumble, and you will hop over the broken fork and be fine, similar to catching a foot on a vine trail jogging. The thing isn't a DH bike.

    The real shame is they kept jacking the price up. At $350 I would say the potential buyers are now 10-20% of what they were at $230, which means it will likely only be produced for a year before its discontinued due to "lack of sales". I kind of wish I had snapped one up instead of building up my single speed.

  147. #147
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    I agree w/the part about low-speed accidents. Personally I'm not going to do any radical riding- I just wanted to determine if one of these types. Of bikes can actually replace the role & mobiliy of a horse (freshly plowed fields, truly "off road" (or trail), etc.
    ? Bombing down-hill @ high speeds, popping wheelies, jumping - none of these for me.I first test-rode a Salsa Mukluk back in 2011- was intirgued by the concept but knew I couldn't justify the price of a used car for something I didn't really need or even knew if I would like... I think $350 isn't beyond most folk's means - but I AM glad I got one for $225!

  148. #148
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    Back in stock...
    $349.97

    Wonder how many they have up for sale.

  149. #149
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    $350 isn't beyond most folks means, but I do believe it is about the point where it is above the value/risk. The $200 range is still "disposable income" to most, where if it turns out to be crap or they just don't like it it's not a huge loss. Exceed that number by much and it quickly turns into a case of "just spend the extra little bit" and get a real/trusted fatbike from bikes direct/nashbar, instead of a "toy", which will hold its resale value better if nothing else.

  150. #150
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    If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.

    Info from them:

    FATBIKE TIRE SPECIAL

    For loyal followers/newsletter members only:

    VeeRubber 120TPI folding tires
    Either VEE 8 or MISSION models

    only $69.95 a pair delivered 48 states {$79.95 in AK & HI}

    To order, simply send an email titled "Fat Bike Tire Special" to [email protected]
    We'll reply with a Paypal money request at this ridiculous price!

    THIS IS FOR A PAIR! Not just a single tire; we know the price is insane, but hey it IS a promo deal!!
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  151. #151
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    wow
    ~$70 a pair!
    Just took a look, and I'm seeing reports on the Mission at 1370g to 1420g.
    And a Vee8 at 1870g, but that was an early one.

    The tire on my Beast is 2829g and my Dolo tires look identical (haven't pulled one to weigh it yet).

    120 tpi will certainly roll better and be lighter than those pigs on the Dolo and Beast.

    The On-One Floater at 120tpi lists as 1670g.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/oth...le-903274.html

    I know On-One Floater deal costs more than that VeeRubber deal, and weird colours, but any idea about performance differences?

  152. #152
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    Dolo crank arm: 170mm, 219g
    They look a step up from Beast arms.

    Stock pedal: 197g

    That's 832g in arms & pedals. 1.83 lbs.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    And a Vee8 at 1870g, but that was an early one.
    Yeah that was the earlier versions at 60 tpi.

    The new 120 tpi ones are around 1350 - 1400 grams. I ordered a set for some dirt use.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  154. #154
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    comment;

    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Handle bars and stem on backwards. Brilliant.
    bad back genius.

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02_NRS View Post
    bad back genius.
    Over and done with already genius.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  156. #156
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    Drive side:
    pedal, crank arm, spider & chain ring (36T) with plastic chainring guard each side, for 648g.

    Non-drive side:
    crank arm & pedal, 219g + 197g for 416g.

    Total: 1064g, or 2.35 lbs.

  157. #157
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    Tire Weight Savings

    Dolo stock: two tires (2829g x 2) & two tubes (705g x 2) = 7068g, or 15.58 lbs.

    Let's assume worst case of 1400g for the VeeRubber Vee8 or Mission, and Q-tubes downhill 26x2.75 at 390g. Two tires (1400g x 2) & two tubes (390g x 2) = 3580g, or 7.89 lbs.

    weight reduction of 3580g, or 7.60 lbs.

    So, that reduced weight would take a stock Dolo from 49 lbs. to 41.3 lbs., and you get a lower roll resistance (a supple 120 tpi tire & a more supple tube), ~$70 plus tubes.

    good find duggus!

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.

    Info from them:
    Hey duggus, what facebook page are you looking at for Bikes Direct? I am not seeing anything on any Bikes Direct facebook page. I like the deal, but would want to pull the trigger if it is not legit.
    Thanks

  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by jekyll2003 View Post
    Hey duggus, what facebook page are you looking at for Bikes Direct? ...
    Some hours after duggus's post I saw the info posted at another site too.
    I just checked right now and it's still up on facebook.
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bikesdirect/122199864367

  160. #160
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    The $349.97 Walmart Mongoose Dolomite is turning up on a certain online auction site as a "Fat Tire Bicycle" and a "Fat Tire Mountain Bike". Asking over $500.

    No mention of Walmart nor of Mongoose. Brand given as "Pacific Cycles". Photos are retouched to remove the bike name "Dolomite" and most photos have "Mongoose" retouched out. Quotes about fat bikes are used in the ads, and include some photos that are not the Dolomite.

    One of the sellers is also listing the $200 Walmart Mongoose Massif as a "Fat Tire Mountain Boys Bicycle" for near $400.

    And there's a $200 Walmart Mongoose Beast painted camo up as a "Fat Tire Bicycle Cruiser" for near $600, appears to be stock except for the paint and the seat.

    sigh...
    Last edited by Canoe; 03-18-2014 at 04:03 PM.

  161. #161
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    I would wait until the Gravity fatbikes from Bikesdirect hit the shore.

    Pre-Order is getting a slow start but their Facebook page claimed these prices a while ago.
    Bullseye Monster $499
    Deadeye Monster $449
    Deadeye $399
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    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  162. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Some hours after duggus's post I saw the info posted at another site too.
    I just checked right now and it's still up on facebook.
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bikesdirect/122199864367
    Thanks. I found it too. Bikes Direct has 2 FB pages, one has not been updated since 2011. The page is Bikesdirect no spaces.

  163. #163
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    At sub $300 I would buy the Dolo just to cruise around with the grandkids and run the dog. At $349 I think it's a stretch. I don't want a full price high zoot fatbike. So what's driving up the price? Greed or supply and demand? I think I already answered my own question.

  164. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    ...So what's driving up the price? Greed or supply and demand?...
    Or they needed to slow sales down so the staff at the shipping depot could go home to get a shower and some sleep.
    (kidding)

  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.

    Info from them:
    Thanks for the tip!

    Ordering up..
    I like bikes, and turtles. Well... mostly turtles. But bikes are cool also.

  166. #166
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    the bikes direct bikes can't run the 5 inch tire. and have a very funky asymetrical frame.

  167. #167
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    Can a dolomite run a 5" tire?

  168. #168
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    A few more things AND my tires are about 4.7" across - looks like room for 5"(?)

    Here's the latest little additions-tweaks...

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-a01-rtsd-nwfrntdrllr-16mar14-.jpg

    I had to change the original front derailleur mount setup to get the derailleur more centered on the seat tube. Involved using another clamp (with a through-bolt setup) versus the previous clamp (beefier clamp but with a smaller and shorter bolt/screw at the clamp.)

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-a02-frntvw-nwfrntdrllr-16mar14-.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-a03-topvw-nwfrntdrllr-16mar14-.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-a04-dtlshot-nwfrntdrllr-16mar14-.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-rrrackadded.jpg

    Here is a cheap aluminum rear rack that I've owned for years (says Schwinn on it but I think it was after the original company sold-out to Pacific(?) or some other large international conglomerate.) I had to "thin the herd" for the wife so I re-donated the cheapo (bike theft is pretty prevalent here in Missoula... it really doesn't "pay" to have a nice bike.. :\ ) "campus bike" I'd built up last year for getting to college in Missoula. I just kept the rack from off that bike. I just bent the down-stays to clear the tire width and used an old weed-eater clamp and a clamp from an old broken MTB thumb-shifter as my seat stay clamps. The seat stay diameters are the same as most "standard" handle bars - convenient! I ended up hanging the front of the rack from the seat clamp through-bolt as the drop to the seat tube clamp was too steep and put the rack way out of level.

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    I'm not sure about the Gear-inches chart - I used the one Sheldon Brown had created. This was with the stock 14-28 rear freewheel sprocket set. I might try to put on one of the "Megarange" Shimano units (14-34...) I can get one free at Free-Cycle Missoula... ( Free Cycles )
    Last edited by rotaidalg; 04-04-2014 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Addedcaptioning to the text-body to aid in searching...

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
    Here's the latest little additions-tweaks...Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm not sure about the Gear-inches chart - I used the one Sheldon Brown had created. I might try to put on one of the "Megarange" Shimano units (14-34...) I can get one free.
    I have the Shimano "megarange" 14 to 34 in back with a 23 granny gear up front, and it works good in the snow. The 34 is used more often than I would have thought. Anything solid, and I quickly run out of gears and switch to the 32 up front.

    Love the mega though -
    I like bikes, and turtles. Well... mostly turtles. But bikes are cool also.

  170. #170
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    Dolomite Self Steer

    My stock Beast had huge self steer on all surfaces and a healthy gyroscope effect when turning; distracting by times. That was greatly improved to rarely self steer and minimal gyro, with a 47mm trials rim in front with an Endo or Larry. Stock rim in front with a Larry was in between, and quite ride-able.

    Dolomite, stock:
    • little if any self steer on pavement
    • minimal self steer on packed snow
    • self steer in fresh snow, but very smooth and stable
    • minimal feeling of gyroscope effect when turning.

    wtf?

    Can the geometry make that much difference?

    (no dirt to test it on - all snow)

  171. #171
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    Wow... BikeMan has outdone Bikes Direct on price! Not that the Missions are that great of tires and you can find them used all over... but not terrible, and can't get much better of a deal than this.

    DEAL OF THE DAY
    $24.99 Fat Bike Tires!!!
    48% off the Vee Rubber Mission 26x4.0
    Bikeman Vee Mission 26x4.0 Black Folding
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  172. #172
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    That's a great price. Looks like bike man has 60tpi and bikes direct were 120tpi. But still a great deal!

  173. #173
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    60TPI... but yes... crazy deal. Wow... really shows you what markup has to be if they are still making a slight profit on these. I'm guessing VeeTire is practically giving them away though with all their new tires coming out. I'm going to speculate that the Mission and Vee8 are possibly going to be discontinued and that is why these specials are coming out.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  174. #174
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    im trying to decide weather i should get the gravity bullseye or Dolomite

    i was hoping any Dolomite owner can answer my questions,

    is the Dolomite frame and fork alluminum or steel ?
    whats the rear dropout spacing. and front spacing?
    how many spokes do the rims have?
    whats the BB legnth?
    is the fork threadless 1 1/8?
    what size is the seat post?

    im think about buying either one and just keep the frame fork and rims upgrade everything else completely. thanks
    17 Lynskey Fatskey
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  175. #175
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    Steel Frame and Fork
    190 rear 135 front
    36
    about 175mm
    1 1/8 threadless
    28.6

    Personally I think the Gravity is a better buy. And I really like the Mongeese...

  176. #176
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    thanks very much for the input, do you know how much it weights? since its all steel and heavy, i dont think the Dolomite is nimble.

    the Bottom bracket shell width is 175mm? wow thats wide. do manufacturers make spindles that long ?

    my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget
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  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    im trying to decide weather i should get the gravity bullseye or Dolomite

    i was hoping any Dolomite owner can answer my questions,

    is the Dolomite frame and fork alluminum or steel ?
    whats the rear dropout spacing. and front spacing?
    how many spokes do the rims have?
    whats the BB legnth?
    is the fork threadless 1 1/8?
    what size is the seat post?

    im think about buying either one and just keep the frame fork and rims upgrade everything else completely. thanks
    it's about 50#

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget
    Dropping 15lbs from a Dolomite is doable, depends on your budget.

    Im doing something similar with a Beast right now. But ill have more into it than a gravity when I'm done. For me the build is half the fun though...

  179. #179
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    My budget is about $1200 total for the complete build. dont get me wrong, i can probably get an used surly or salsa for that much but i will still end up updating everything too. since i dont really care about brand name, i figure why not just start with a cheaper bike/frame.

    is the rear hub a freewheel or cassette?
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  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    ...my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget
    There's lighter parts for not too much money, but if you want the lightest...
    Between quality light 120 tpi tires, tubes, stem, bars & crankset, you should be able to be awfully near 35 lbs.. But you're likely to spend more than the bike costs to get there. (example, a pair of 120 tpi Nates is 2 x $150). And you'll still have a frame without gussets with not the greatest welds and bottom end brakes. If you start replacing hubs, spokes & gears too, all in, parts and a Dolo could end up at three times the cost of the Dolo. Better ways to spend that money.

    What do intend to use the bike for?
    As in, light is nice, but how much bike do you need? There's many end goals where a Dolo is not the place to start from.

    Edit: $1200 budget. I would never start with a Dolo.
    And depending on your intended usage, compared to a "real" fat bike, it would be downright dangerous.
    I suggest you check the other threads, or start your own "Have $1,200, and want a fat bike for ______, what should I be looking at?"

  181. #181
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    My post from another thread (the wrong one)

    So I got my Dolomite yesterday. The box was in good shape and other than a few, barely noticeable scratches, it's in great shape.
    My initial impression (as it was for The Beast) was that the tires stank to high hell. It went together fairly quickly. Didn't have to adjust the rear derailleur at all, but the brakes needed some attention. The brakes also didn't work initially, but after putting a couple miles on them, I can tell they're starting to break in, so I'm sure they'll be fine.
    The tires and tubes are heavy junk and I replaced them with some Missions and lighter tubes I had laying around. I also swapped the bars/stem with a much lighter set I had, so it's now at a svelte 42lbs.
    The gearing is a bit tall, but should be fine for just cruising around Folsom Lake and what not. I bought it so my girlfriend would have something to tool around on.
    The only other thing I may do is drill out the rims.
    Bottom line, for $224, it's a steal. At $349 (where it's priced now) not so much.
    This bike is cool, but if this was the only fatbike I was going to own, I would definitely get something nicer. The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolomite.jpg

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    There's lighter parts for not too much money, but if you want the lightest...
    Between quality light 120 tpi tires, tubes, stem, bars & crankset, you should be able to be awfully near 35 lbs.. But you're likely to spend more than the bike costs to get there. (example, a pair of 120 tpi Nates is 2 x $150). And you'll still have a frame without gussets with not the greatest welds and bottom end brakes. If you start replacing hubs, spokes & gears too, all in, parts and a Dolo could end up at three times the cost of the Dolo. Better ways to spend that money.

    What do intend to use the bike for?
    As in, light is nice, but how much bike do you need? There's many end goals where a Dolo is not the place to start from.

    Edit: $1200 budget. I would never start with a Dolo.
    And depending on your intended usage, compared to a "real" fat bike, it would be downright dangerous.
    I suggest you check the other threads, or start your own "Have $1,200, and want a fat bike for ______, what should I be looking at?"


    yeah, i sort of realized that Dolo is not the best platform to modified. this would be my only fat bike, garage can only fit so many bikes, ill have to sell my DJ to make room and free up some money to build it.

    what i have in mind is a cool cruiser turns some heads in town, and some XC riding. no serious trail riding. ill leave that to my suspension bikes.
    here is what i want basically. good reliable frame that i like. hope hubs 170/135. good drilled rims. 2 sets of tires one knobby set for trail. one slick set for street. hope tech m4 brakes. some good crankset. 1x9 saint or 1x10 zee. obviously for the budget these are some fancy parts , so ill have to hunt for deals on used parts.

    i think ill wait around till i sell my DJ to see what options are. ill probably get one from bikedirect anyways.
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  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    ... what i have in mind is a cool cruiser turns some heads in town, and some XC riding. no serious trail riding. ill leave that to my suspension bikes...
    Warning!!!
    Once you try fat, with the fat tire suspension, you may find you end up going for a "real" fat bike with quality tires, brakes, etc. and a suspension fork. Your suspension bikes may gather more garage dust than you anticipate.

    Before you spend any money, make sure you test ride a "real" fat bike or two, or three. Different frames, rims, tires, etc., can feel rather different. There's a lot of threads for you to read.

    p.s. the right knobby and it does fine for street too, you've got fat air in there

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget
    Have you looked at the Framed Minnesota fat bikes? I believe they are about 35 lbs stock and under a grand.

    On Sale Fat Bikes
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  185. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Warning!!!
    Once you try fat, with the fat tire suspension, you may find you end up going for a "real" fat bike with quality tires, brakes, etc. and a suspension fork. Your suspension bikes may gather more garage dust than you anticipate.

    Before you spend any money, make sure you test ride a "real" fat bike or two, or three. Different frames, rims, tires, etc., can feel rather different. There's a lot of threads for you to read.

    p.s. the right knobby and it does fine for street too, you've got fat air in there

    yes, yes, this is exactly what i was thinking. thats why i want to build it with all the goodies listed in my early comment. fat bike tires can go over terrains and its not heavy. i dont see why it wouldnt be a good trail bike if built right. its a very good idea to demo some fat bike like you said to see how i like them.



    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Have you looked at the Framed Minnesota fat bikes? I believe they are about 35 lbs stock and under a grand.

    On Sale Fat Bikes


    i saw those during research last night. honestly, i think they dont have better value to me then the bike direct ones , considering ill upgrade everything. and i dont like how the downtube its curved slightly at the headtube.
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  186. #186
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    akacoke, i'll be doing the same thing in the near future. hoping its worth it.

  187. #187
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    Shimano Megarange Freewheel (13-34) hub on my Mongoose Dolomite..

    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    My budget is about $1200 total for the complete build. dont get me wrong, i can probably get an used surly or salsa for that much but i will still end up updating everything too. since i dont really care about brand name, i figure why not just start with a cheaper bike/frame.

    is the rear hub a freewheel or cassette?
    FREEWHEEL hub...
    I just put a Shimano Megarange (13-34 tooth iteration - that's NOT a typo - this has 13 vs. 14 teeth on the small sprocket!?!) to replace the stock 14-28 tooth Freewheel hub on mine two nights ago.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-mgarngfrhb-19mar14-.jpg



    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-ovrallmods-19mar14-.jpg
    Last edited by rotaidalg; 04-04-2014 at 09:33 AM. Reason: Add captioning to searchable text...

  188. #188
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    I picked up a BikesDirect Fantom Pro a while back ($995). Outside of putting on some new tires, (cheap ones, at that), grips and replacing the big ring with a bashguard and swapping the bars out, it's stock and comes in at 35.5lbs.
    It's a great bike for the money and doesn't really need a lot of upgrading.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-fantom.jpg

  189. #189
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    cool, looks like Dolos are back in stock again at $350 plus tax.
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  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    I picked up a BikesDirect Fantom Pro a while back ($995). Outside of putting on some new tires, (cheap ones, at that), grips and replacing the big ring with a bashguard and swapping the bars out, it's stock and comes in at 35.5lbs.
    It's a great bike for the money and doesn't really need a lot of upgrading.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    hey man, thanks for sharing, thats a nice looking bike, i like the fantom frame much better . i think ill go with that eventually. what size is your frame?
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  191. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    hey man, thanks for sharing, thats a nice looking bike, i like the fantom frame much better . i think ill go with that eventually. what size is your frame?
    It's a 17". I actually ordered a 19", but they got shorted, so I got a $50 discount for getting the smaller size. FYI, I'm 6'1" with a 32" inseam and I love the way it fits. I'm glad I ended up with the 17" rather than the 19".

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    It's a 17". I actually ordered a 19", but they got shorted, so I got a $50 discount for getting the smaller size. FYI, I'm 6'1" with a 32" inseam and I love the way it fits. I'm glad I ended up with the 17" rather than the 19".
    few questions : do the headset, hubs and bottom bracket have sealed bearings? is the rear hub loud? ( compare to hope pro 2) whats the front and rear hub spacing?

    do you mind posting more pictures if you have them? thanks
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  193. #193
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    Finished w/Mods for a bit(?)... (Tire PSI issues...)

    Done w/mods & "upgrades"(?) for now. Going on a longer ride today...

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-status-21mar14.jpg

    Turns out the 25 PSI was OK for my rear tire as long as it stayed below 32 degrees F! At 40+ degrees and with sunshine the rear tire blew off the right side (in a later post as well...) With this much volume expansion is a definate factor with the fat tires! :P (I'd made two other 7.4 mile round trips previously at 25 PSI with no issues - great road rolling / low resistance - but it was colder then...)

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-megarange-dtl-21mar14.jpg

    Picture of a gear chart from Sheldon Brown's site (In gearinches). The Magarange low gear has me at about 24 gear-inches with a small chain-ring of 28 teeth. That's close to what you need for loaded touring climbs, etc.
    Last edited by rotaidalg; 04-04-2014 at 09:42 AM. Reason: Add captioning to text body for searchability..

  194. #194
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    Well I was one of the people that purchased the Dolomite at $349 last Sunday. I just saw that they dropped the price online to $299, but was still out of stock. I called walmart.com and since it was less than 7 days they honored the lower price and credited me. You can say all you want about Walmart, but I was pleased with the zero hassle for the refund on the price change.

  195. #195
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Wow... BikeMan has outdone Bikes Direct on price! Not that the Missions are that great of tires and you can find them used all over... but not terrible, and can't get much better of a deal than this.

    DEAL OF THE DAY
    $24.99 Fat Bike Tires!!!
    48% off the Vee Rubber Mission 26x4.0
    Bikeman Vee Mission 26x4.0 Black Folding
    I must have missed it. It's like $51 now


  196. #196
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    Update on attempted ride last week:
    1) Rear tire sort of "blew off" to the right. (i mile from house)
    2) Suspected problem; I inflated the rear tire to about 25 PSI (@20 degrees F) a few days previously. Had ridden on a couple 7 -mile round-trip rides already - however, the day the tire blew off the right side (un-beaded) it was sunny and mid forties.
    3) Deflated rear tire, re-seated the right bead then hand-pumped (500+!) back to about 4 PSI. Limped a mile back home...
    4) Reset PSI to 21 PSI Front & Rear at 40+ degrees F. Re-rode about an 8-mile loop w/rough roads, high speed (down-hill on wash-boarded & potholed gravel road), etc. No more problems - THEN got sick, so yet to make the longer trip to town.
    Last edited by rotaidalg; 03-26-2014 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Bad key-board - spelling/typing... proof read!

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
    Update on attempted ride last week:
    1) Rear tire sort of "blew off" to the right. (i mile from house)
    2) Suspected problem; I inflated the rear tire to about 25 PSI (@20 degrees F) a few days previously. Had ridden on a couple 7 -mile round-trip rides already - however, the day the tire blew off the right side (un-beaded) it was sunny and mid forties.
    3) Deflated rear tire, re-seated the right bead then hand-pumped (500+!) back to about 4 PSI. Limped a mile back home...
    4) Reset PSI to 21 PSI Front & Rear at 40+ degrees F. Re-rode about an 8-mile loop w/rough roads, high speed (down-hill on wash-boarded & potholed gravel road), etc. No more problems - THEN got sick, so yet to make the longer trip to town.
    WAYYYY too much pressure.
    The leg bone's connected to the Cash Bone!

  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw2jr View Post
    WAYYYY too much pressure.
    No kidding.

    Did you see the video of the Dolomite out in the forest? Look where he goes over some rocks and then later some branches. Tires look next to rock hard... ouch. Better him than me.

  199. #199
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    So I took out the girlfriend the beach the other day on the Dolomite (I was on my FB4). She absolutely LOVED it, which was pretty surprising, as she's very much a girly girl.
    I'm really looking forward to spending more quality fat bike time with her.

    Oh, and if anyone is looking to buy an FB4 Pro, I'm selling mine. I may or may not have accidentally bought a Specialized Fatboy today.

    Ooops!
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-fatboy.jpg

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotaidalg View Post
    Done w/mods & "upgrades"(?) for now. Going on a longer ride today...
    Close enough.
    With the Dolo's tires @29.375":
    • your 28T driving 34T is 24.2 G.I. and 1.93 MOD; with 170mm the gain ratio is 1.81,
    • at the other end, 48T driving 13T is 108.5 G.I. and 8.66 MOD; 170mm for 8.10 gain ratio.
    • your range is 348%.

    Once you've figured out a good tire inflation, with your sitting on it on flat level pavement or concrete, have someone measure from the ground to the center of the rear axle, then double that to get a diameter for calculating the actual values.

    Stock Dolo 36T, 37.8 through 75.5 G.I., 3.01 to 6.03 MOD, stock 170mm cranks give 2.82 to 5.64 gain ratio, range 100%

    From a recycle bike place, I picked up a MF-TZ-31 14-34T and a MF-HG40 14-34T; I've no idea what their difference is. Passed on a MF-TZ-__ 13-34T that was a little rough. Got the recommended protector too.With 34T, I was given many warnings about making sure the derailler limit is set right to keep it out of the spokes.

    With 14-34T on a stock Dolo, that'll give me 31.1 through 75.5 gear inches.

    With a 22T/32T front, I can get that to 19.0 G.I. through 67.1 G.I..
    Make it a triple to 42T and it's up to 88.1.

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