The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite - Page 16- Mtbr.com
Page 16 of 16 FirstFirst ... 61213141516
Results 3,001 to 3,018 of 3018
  1. #3001
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    My front wheel was rough too, but it was because of a defect in the bearing race.
    What did you do? Or did you resolve the problem somehow?

  2. #3002
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by usuallypanda View Post
    What did you do? Or did you resolve the problem somehow?
    I can't fix something like that without replacing parts, so I ordered a front hub motor kit. In retrospect, I should have returned the bike since even if I still made it an ebike, a mid drive or rear hub motor would have been better. Now if I decide I want to convert to that, I still have to build or buy a new front wheel.

  3. #3003
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    1
    Has anyone found a source for a 110mm cartridge bottom bracket? My new black/blue Dolo has the wider bottom bracket and I havenít found anything anywhere....

  4. #3004
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2,070
    Quote Originally Posted by klunky chris View Post
    Has anyone found a source for a 110mm cartridge bottom bracket? My new black/blue Dolo has the wider bottom bracket and I havenít found anything anywhere....
    I haven't heard of that.
    May be easier to get a LBS, bike mechanic or bike maker to trim the shell down to 100 mm. Then you can get the cartridge others here have used, along with swept out crank arms so you can clear the chain-stays.

    The cut-down could be done with a metal-cutting wheel on your tool of choice (but it would be a long job with a Dremel). Go for 101 mm, a little at a time so you don't overheat the metal & paint that's remaining, and use something to protect the rest of the bike. Then get the shell faced square with the proper facing tool. The facing tool is too expensive to buy for a one-time use, and not many bike mechanics have one. But someone near you must have one and can do that part of the job. You may need to extend the tap into the shell some more for the threads on the cartridge.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  5. #3005
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    22

    This was my bike when it was new


    Bike after handlebar swap and seat replacement

    Hi all, itís been a few months since I posted here but if you scroll down to about June youíll be able to see my first post here about my bike. Iíve made a few upgrades to my biggity (Canadian version of dolo), including a better seat and handlebars.

    Iím 14, about to be 15 so I donít have a lot of money but I have saved up enough to buy an air fork. Iím in Canada, could anyone recommend any fat tire air forks in the 100 range?

    Iíve been looking at this one. Yes, I am aware that itís a Chinese brand, but it suits my needs and as long as it does the job Iím happy with it.

    https://www.amazon.ca/RONSHIN-Alumin...0059884&sr=8-5

    I canít exactly spend 300+ dollars because I donít have 300 dollars, I have a savings of about 80 and the opportunity is coming next weekend to buy the fork.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-a0b200f6-024f-47c6-a0ea-3cbd53d4d4e6.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-d9229e18-8afe-4204-8567-31ca60590ddb.jpg  


  6. #3006
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2,070
    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    ... but it suits my needs and as long as it does the job Iím happy with it. ...
    I'd hate to start a poll on how long people think a $100 fork will last.
    See if you can google to find actual owners.

    Have you measured:
    • the width of your rims,
    • the width of your tires,
    • the height or radius of your tires.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  7. #3007
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    22
    Tires are 4.0 Chaoyang tires, rims are 100mm. The fork itself fits the length of the stock fork so i won't need to cut anything.

    I'm obviously going to keep the other fork incase anything goes wrong.
    Most of the reviews i've seen have been good, and that there aren't any issues they've had.

  8. #3008
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2,070
    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    Tires are 4.0 Chaoyang tires, rims are 100mm.
    ...
    Most of the reviews i've seen have been good, and that there aren't any issues they've had.
    Again, have you MEASURED?

    Reviews on amazon where you'll give them your money, or elsewhere around the net?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  9. #3009
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    22
    Reviews from all around, amazon and different websites they sell it on

  10. #3010
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2,070
    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    Reviews from all around, amazon and different websites they sell it on
    As in, only places they sell it on?

    And, have you actually measured?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  11. #3011
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    22
    Do you mean the width of the tire or the size of the tire?

  12. #3012
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2,070
    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    Do you mean the width of the tire or the size of the tire?
    Sizes are nominal, not exact.

    A tire will have a different profile on different rims, and depending on how much pressure is in it, and sometimes how old it is. The tire is likely wider than the rim, but some tires just fit on a wide rim. Same for the effective diameter/radius.

    You need to actually measure:
    • the rim width,
    • the tire width at its widest (and at your street inflation pressure and at your lowest trail riding pressure - see which is widest), and
    • the tire diameter/radius, again at your inflation min/max (measuring diameter at the horizontal and halving that can be easier than measuring from centre of axle - you'll see which is easier for you).


    You want to compare those measurements to the fork measurements to ensure you've got clearance for the width of the tire (rim is likely fine, given the 135 mm and fork design) and that the tire will clear the cross piece on the fork. And the clearance between the front axle centre to the top of the forks.

    For future use, you should also measure the clearance between the tire and the chain stays and seat stays and seat tube, and the max width between the stays (where the tires is) and the min radius between the axle centre and the seat tube. That's the maximums for the rear tire.

    You're likely fine on width, but be sure. You're not likely to need a wider tire to try and float on top of sand or snow where you are. 3.8" will usually fit on 100 mm rims, but a wider tire has a nicer profile and can be inflated into a rounder shape for street use. Consider what tires you'd be likely to get when your current ones wear out.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  13. #3013
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    22
    I bought the fork, but as an experiment to see how long itíll last. Video below explains:

  14. #3014
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    22
    Ended up not buying the fork, seller had too many sketchy reviews and i'd rather just buy it from the company themselves, which is fulfilled by amazon. Keep in mind i'm not exactly a MTB'er. I use my bike for commute and I dont have much money at the moment. I've been needing shifters for a while and some new grips since the ones that came stock on the bike are uncomfortable. The grip shifter works but I always end up accidentally shifting all the time while going on trails. Trigger shifters fix that problem, at least.

    In the meantime, I bought a few things, some new shifters, brake levers (I've put the levers on but not the shifter, I'm sort of inexperinced with shifter installation and while I know it's probably not hard I'll have my local bike shop install it for 20 dollars) and i'm expecting some grips and a new handlebar stem to come tomorrow.

    I'll need to wait for a while before I can save up another 160 since i've already got 30 in my account, but for right now i'll have to wait. I'm slowly making upgrades as I go

    Heres some of the stuff I ordered:
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    It's not much, but it'll be better than what I've got now. I'll update you guys soon when I eventually do order the fork in about 2 months from now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-c35ca77d-566f-4b0d-a90c-4bc4f5bc5edd.jpg  


  15. #3015
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    2
    Hey there All,

    Did about 500 miles on my Malus the last few months, but wasn't paying complete attention to maintenance, and the crank arm threads on the non-drive side of my bottom bracket spindle(?) are shot. Tried tapping new threads, but that didn't last long. I'm not able to find anywhere that sells some kind of direct replacement, and some advice I saw on contacting Mongoose directly hasn't got me very far as they are currently extremely backlogged on support right now. Does anybody know of a direct replacement that can be purchased somewhere outside of Mongoose? Hopefully on Amazon/Ebay? I'm open to other, smaller online stores though. Still learning on bike stuff, so I'm not sure what will/won't work.

    The bottom bracket shell (again, not sure if that's exactly what it's called? Just going off context on the original post in this thread) looks to be 110mm, but I don't currently have the crank arms off so i don't know the exact spindle length (I can pull stuff apart and get that if needed).

    Any help is appreciated. I was planning on upgrading to a non-fat tire hardtail and just keeping the Malus around for family/screwing around, but bike inventory has been decimated by Covid, so I'm having to make do with what I've got currently.

  16. #3016
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2,070
    Quote Originally Posted by KillerAJD View Post
    ... the crank arm threads on the non-drive side of my bottom bracket spindle(?) are shot. ...
    The bottom bracket shell (again, not sure if that's exactly what it's called? Just going off context on the original post in this thread) looks to be 110mm, ...
    Getting a spindle that fits, let alone quality, is difficult. The stock is a metal that is, well, too soft; known for wearing and bending. At one point I think someone was machining them out of a decent metal for ~$110.

    Your best bet is a replacement cartridge and new crank arms. The cartridge is a lot shorter than the stock spindle (~BB width plus length to attach crank arms), so you need swept crank arms so they sweep outwards and clear the chain stays and your heels clear the chain stays.

    Start at the end of this thread and work backwards to find the posts that detail the cartridge that works and the swept crank arms that work. Nothing wrong with used arms from a bike co-op, etc.. This is the time to get same length, shorter or longer to better match your needs.

    Make sure you measure the bottom bracket shell correctly.
    If it's too long for the known cartridge, you can get the shell cut down and re-faced and tapped for the cartridge size that is known to work with the swept arms. That job is easy - IF you have the correct facing tool. They are not cheap. Not common even at bike shops. A bike builder should have the tool, but they build bikes not repair them, and may not want the liability of trimming and refacing the shell to make it square on a low end POS bike fearing they get blamed for problems with the bike.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  17. #3017
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    1
    Well,

    Howdy all. Got my Dolomite on 3 JUN 2020 and finaly have it setup pretty well with the advice on here.

    New YST BB, new Shimano hydraulic brakes and 180 rotors, new Shimano 7 gear w/Mega range setup, new 32t Suntour crankset, new head set, new Shimano trigger shifter, new stem 38.1 and 110m long, new 800mm w75mm rise handle bar, new Fooker pedals, and cheapo handgrips.

    I'm 325lbs and she rides like a dream with the stock seat.

    I bought a bunch of Chinese Sealed BB to try out. The 100x177 I know wont work and I havent yet tried the 110x167.

    Regreased everything and found the ball bearing races in the wheels were well greased but the BB was dry as a bone.

    Had to take it to the LBS to get the head set put in and the brakes bled after I shortened them. Guys at the store thought it was a great looking bike. They sell mostly Specialzed stuff, and not cheaply.

    Just giving a shout out to all those here providing great info. THANKS

    Thorack

  18. #3018
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Getting a spindle that fits, let alone quality, is difficult. The stock is a metal that is, well, too soft; known for wearing and bending. At one point I think someone was machining them out of a decent metal for ~$110.

    Your best bet is a replacement cartridge and new crank arms. The cartridge is a lot shorter than the stock spindle (~BB width plus length to attach crank arms), so you need swept crank arms so they sweep outwards and clear the chain stays and your heels clear the chain stays.

    Start at the end of this thread and work backwards to find the posts that detail the cartridge that works and the swept crank arms that work. Nothing wrong with used arms from a bike co-op, etc.. This is the time to get same length, shorter or longer to better match your needs.

    Make sure you measure the bottom bracket shell correctly.
    If it's too long for the known cartridge, you can get the shell cut down and re-faced and tapped for the cartridge size that is known to work with the swept arms. That job is easy - IF you have the correct facing tool. They are not cheap. Not common even at bike shops. A bike builder should have the tool, but they build bikes not repair them, and may not want the liability of trimming and refacing the shell to make it square on a low end POS bike fearing they get blamed for problems with the bike.
    Gotcha, I appreciate the info! I'll start searching through the thread for cartridges/swept crank arms that'll work.

    EDIT: Just wanted to update in case people are needing something similar to myself. Went through the thread a bit, and found a possible cartridge set that might work, but the listing has changed, and the measurements didn't seem like they'd work (the shell on my bike is indeed 110mm, vs the more part-friendly(?) 100mm). Currently would be a pain to get the shell faced, and timewise, it would be a bit before that could happen, and I really wanted the bike back up and running ASAP. I also have yet to hear anything from Mongoose, so even if I wanted to just buy the stock part, I can't currently.

    Managed to find a company online located in Washington state selling the whole bottom bracket assembly for (relatively?) cheap at $25+shipping. Found it at Sickbikeparts.com (https://sickbikeparts.com/bottom-bra...e-83-110mm-bb/). The listing noted it as a cartridge bb, but the photos made it look almost identical to what was in the bike already. It seems like this online shop is more for parts putting small engines on bikes, but the bb setup looked like it would fit just fine (and the spindle is actually even a bit wider, which I was fine with).

    As a note, I did find another company seemingly selling the same thing, but it was like $10 more expensive, so I just ordered the cheaper one, and I don't have a link to the other site I found it unfortunately.

    Anyways, shipping was quick since I'm relatively close, and I got the part in the other day. It kind of shocked me though, because it didn't look like what I had ordered/expected. Instead, it didn't have any surfaces for the ball bearings/bearing cage to push up against, and the diameter was the same along the entire thing until it tapered to the square crank ends. It did look like it was potentially two pieces? But the darker end may just be machined differently? Not sure. It ALSO came with sealed bearings installed already. Finally, the cups clearly used a different tool to install then what was on there initially (which was also different from the YST sealed cupset that I had put on a bit ago). Turns out, it uses a 20-spline bb remover tool (the Park tool I grabbed was the BBT-22).

    Pulled the original bb apart, cleaned it up, greased the stuff, and went to install the new one when I got to the non-drive side and realized it didn't come with a lock ring. Not sure if this is intentional, or you are expected to have one, but I just used the one that was on the previous bb cup and put it together. The ad also shows spacers, I think(?), and it didn't come with those either.

    Haven't taken it for a spin yet as I need to install a new rear axle I bought awhile back as well, but it seems to work fine? No idea how long it will last or if I did something wrong/this part actually won't work, but if it at least limps the bike along a bit longer until I can get something else and keep this as a spare, that'll be fine. It pedals smooth with no load, and there's zero play without having to fuss around like with the previous cup/cone bb. I also ordered a second one yesterday to install on my brothers Dolomite if his spindle takes itself out.

    Image links if attachments don't work:
    https://i.imgur.com/h1mCy2w.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/0qgEFWH.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/RojnaV5.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-h1mcy2w.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-0qgefwh.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-rojnav5.jpg  

    Last edited by KillerAJD; 6 Days Ago at 04:10 PM.

Page 16 of 16 FirstFirst ... 61213141516

Similar Threads

  1. Rolf Dolomite Wheel set for sale
    By Wiplash in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-13-2013, 03:38 PM
  2. Semi-rad.com took a jab at us!
    By jmmUT in forum Off Camber (off topic)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-15-2013, 10:30 PM
  3. Rolf Dolomite Disc cracked rear rim?! WTF?
    By Wasmachineman NL in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-01-2012, 01:09 AM
  4. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-02-2012, 10:57 PM
  5. Semi OT
    By pisgahproductions in forum North & South Carolina
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-11-2011, 02:48 PM

Members who have read this thread: 66

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.