The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite - Page 15- Mtbr.com
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  1. #2801
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    Hi!
    This is my first post.
    I just got this bike off ebay (germany) for 225Ä. It seems to be pretty identical to the mongoose dolomite, but it has an alloy frame, stem, handlebar, seatpost and crank! The front and rear hub and headset bearings were too tight. Fork is a little bent. Weld looks solid. I will keep you updated, as soon as i put some miles on it. 3x9-speed is intended. May take some weeks, though.
    Awesome thread so far!
    Lots of great ideas and intructions.
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  2. #2802
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    Sorry if this a noob question, but is a cassette part of the freewheel or are they two different systems? I tried to read up on the internet but I've come across conflicting info.

    I just bought a megarange for my Malus but haven't installed it yet. I'm considering returning it and going the 8 speed 11-32 route instead.
    Last edited by spf808; 05-31-2017 at 08:54 PM.

  3. #2803
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    Quote Originally Posted by spf808 View Post
    Sorry if this a noob question, but is a cassette part of the freewheel or are they two different systems? I tried to read up on the internet but I've come across conflicting info.

    I just bought a megarange for my Malus but haven't installed it yet. I'm considering returning it and going the 8 speed 11-32 route instead.
    The Dolomite, Hitch and Malus use a freewheel style and not a cassette style.

  4. #2804
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    Quote Originally Posted by spf808 View Post
    Sorry if this a noob question, but is a cassette part of the freewheel or are they two different systems? I tried to read up on the internet but I've come across conflicting info.

    I just bought a megarange for my Malus but haven't installed it yet. I'm considering returning it and going the 8 speed 11-32 route instead.
    Cassette and Freewheel are completely different systems
    and they are not interchangeable
    freewheels do not come in 11-32. the 11tooth high gear is simply too small to physically fit on a freewheel. 15 is the usual limit on these.
    Additionally they are Usually only 7 speed, a few are 8 but these are unusual and may not fit.

    Cassettes are definitely better, both for durability and gear options.
    But since the systems are integrated into the wheel hub, upgrading is extremely costly.

    learn more here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

  5. #2805
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    Thanks, that was helpful guys. Sometimes I need things spelled out for me. I don't have the luxury to buy parts that might .ot fit or work with my setup.

  6. #2806
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    Hey guys! I just owed my first bike/dolomite. Im currently in the process of painting the bike to my like and comfort. Im in a tight spot now trying to choose a different handle bar and seating for the bike. I had me mind to have a hydraulic seat pole for a smoother ride even though the tires will issues that sort of help but I'm looking to advance the bike to my liking. I will upload photos one day to shout you all I'm getting my hands into.

  7. #2807
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    Where did you manage to get your seat post?

  8. #2808
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    Quote Originally Posted by elpuru View Post
    Where did you manage to get your seat post?
    I got a Kalloy one off ebay for $18. It worked OK, and was better than some I've used. Just came across this earlier today when looking for my kid's bike. Cheap $10 gamble. If anybody gets one, post how it is.
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CPBLLW
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  9. #2809
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    Quote Originally Posted by elpuru View Post
    Hey guys! I just owed my first bike/dolomite. Im currently in the process of painting the bike to my like and comfort. Im in a tight spot now trying to choose a different handle bar and seating for the bike. I had me mind to have a hydraulic seat pole for a smoother ride even though the tires will issues that sort of help but I'm looking to advance the bike to my liking. I will upload photos one day to shout you all I'm getting my hands into.

    I'd recommend buying a cheap stem and upgrading to 31.8mm handlebars. I waited for a sale on Nashbar and bought these:

    Nashbar Black Ops Flat Mountain Handlebar

    and used this cheap but durable stem:
    Mountain Bicycle Road Bike Handlebar Stem Aluminum Alloy 1 1/8" 31.8mm Black | eBay

  10. #2810
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    Found this bottom bracket in my Costco version. It had sealed bearings. I was going to install the YST kit, but wouldn't sticking with this be better? If not, I'm going to have to try harder at pulling the axle out.

    https://imgur.com/a/zGsiQ

  11. #2811
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo613 View Post
    The Malus has a 110mm bottom bracket I believe. If that is the case, this is what you need: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Fat-B...08.4.33.fWRLLH
    So the 110x167 from this link is confirmed to fit on Malus? Planning to add Vuelta crankset too.
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  12. #2812
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo613 View Post
    The Malus has a 110mm bottom bracket I believe. If that is the case, this is what you need: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Fat-B...08.4.33.fWRLLH
    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    So the 110x167 from this link is confirmed to fit on Malus? Planning to add Vuelta crankset too.
    Ordered 110x167 bottom bracket and Vuelta 175mm crankset for Biggity DLX (Malus). Will see what happens.

    What bottom bracket tool do I need to do this job?
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  13. #2813
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    It has been a long time, but I'm finally riding my bike again. Today was the first ride as an electric bike. The 203mm disc brakes harder than before, but I want more with less travel and effort, so I'll order hydraulic brakes. I could have had an accident on today's trial ride when the rear tire came off the bead. I'm hoping that's due to poor installation on my part rather than poor quality of the wheel or tire because that's something I can address before the weekend.

    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Ordered 110x167 bottom bracket and Vuelta 175mm crankset for Biggity DLX (Malus). Will see what happens.

    What bottom bracket tool do I need to do this job?
    It looks like you'd need a tool like this to remove the bottom bracket.
    https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicy...dp/B00811WQJS/

    Have you removed your pedals? Those use another tool. I bought mine from a lbs, but I think this would work too. One of the reviewers said it worked on his Dolomite.

    https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Pul...dp/B001VS1M20/

  14. #2814
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    It has been a long time, but I'm finally riding my bike again. Today was the first ride as an electric bike. The 203mm disc brakes harder than before, but I want more with less travel and effort, so I'll order hydraulic brakes. I could have had an accident on today's trial ride when the rear tire came off the bead. I'm hoping that's due to poor installation on my part rather than poor quality of the wheel or tire because that's something I can address before the weekend.



    It looks like you'd need a tool like this to remove the bottom bracket.
    https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicy...dp/B00811WQJS/

    Have you removed your pedals? Those use another tool. I bought mine from a lbs, but I think this would work too. One of the reviewers said it worked on his Dolomite.

    https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Pul...dp/B001VS1M20/
    I do have pedal wrench, just not crank puller, bb lockring wrench and bb removal tool yet.

    Also curious if this has a chance to work on these bikes with Vuelta crankset. E type LX mech?

    Shimano LX Front Mech E-Type 9sp M580 | Chain Reaction Cycles
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  15. #2815
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    Got the Vuelta mounted on the stock BB, still waiting for the 110x167 bb to arrive.

    If I get an 8 speed shifter, as long as I correctly set rear derailleur limit screws, I can use it without issue and have one unused click on the shifter, correct? If that is true, might as well get an 8 speed shifter in case I want to get 8 speed freewheel down the road.
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  16. #2816
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    What 8 speed freewheel are you planning on? I have a DNP Epoch that I'm planning to install tonight.

  17. #2817
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    Not sure yet, as it won't be in this round of upgrades. Was considering either 13-32 Sunrace or 13-34 Sunrace (not Alpine) whichever I can get here. Was just on their web and they do have 9 and 10 speed freewheels available. Would these still work with proper shifter and derailleur on this bike?

    I noticed DNP Epoch freewheels, I was not sure if 11T would work on these bikes. If it does that would be awesome, more expensive than Sunrace but would go that route for sure.
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  18. #2818
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    The DNP Epoch freewheel works in all gears. I just took it for a very brief test ride. Right now it seems to shift less fluidly than the original freewheel, and I'm going to try more adjustments to improve shift quality. It gets close to the tire, so those with wider tires and wheels may not be able to use this freewheel.

    The low gear works pretty well as a granny gear now. I'll need to wait until later today to test the 11T gear at 30mph.

    I have it paired with the Shimano ST-EF51. I was looking for a brake/shifter combo to free up space on the handlebar. I really need to post some pictures.

  19. #2819
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    I did about 25 miles today with the DNP Epoch freewheel. It performed nearly flawlessly. There were a couple times where it took a few teeth to go up a gear somewhere in the mid gears, but it did go. I'm sure that's due to my adjustments. The highest 34T gear still feels a little slower, but that could be all in my head.

    Bottom line is that it did what I wanted. The 34T is the granny gear I've been wanting, and I can still spin at 40mph with the 11T.

    The only bummer is that the shifter doesn't quite clear my throttle, so I had to move the shifter a half inch to the left instead of butting against the throttle. I'm going to get a left handed throttle anyway because downshifting is tough to manage while staying on the throttle. It's doable, but I still want the shifter closer to the grip.

    Here's how the bike is currently sitting.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-dolo.jpg

  20. #2820
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    Do any of you guys know how to disassemble the kickstand? The shaft on mine bent, and I want to get it fixed.

  21. #2821
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    Oh well, kickstand came off. I still like having a kickstand for commuting and doing errands, so I'll try Luna's fat bike kickstand.

    I installed hydraulic brakes on 203mm discs up front, and screwed that up. It was spaced out too far, and wore out the lower part of the pads. I've lowered them, but I may have to get new pads and disc to get it to 100%.

    The rear caliper and disc was replaced today with a Shimano mechanical caliper and 180mm disc. The old ones had plenty of power, but I couldn't get them to stop squealing. Because replacement pads were nearly as much as new calipers, I sprung for the upgrade. The new calipers uses less expensive pads with roughly twice the surface area.

    I'm having a hell of a time finding a good way to mount a rear light. The combination of rear rack and fat tire are limiting options. Seat post mount doesn't work because the rack hides it. Rear rack mount doesn't work because the adapter hits the tire. For now I've mounted a light on the left seat stay, but that won't work when I use both panniers.

    Mounting the front tire is still giving me issues. I used the zip tie trick, which improved things greatly, but it still isn't perfect. These tires are almost done, and hopefully this issue goes away with new tires.

  22. #2822
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    Dolomite, the remix.

    I present to you, my Dolomite.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20170823_104308.jpg
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20170823_104257.jpg

    Frame: Dolomite
    Fork: Vinson
    Bars: Generic carbon fiber 660mm
    Stem: Wake BMX style
    Headset: AEST sealed bearing
    Seat: Gav1n
    Seatpost: EVO 400mm
    Wheels: Vinson
    Tires: Chaoyang 26x4.9
    Tubes: QTubes 2.3 superlight
    Cassette: Sunrace 8spd 11-42t
    Crankset: Vuelta MTB comp 175, setup for 1x with Snail 30t narrow-wide, k-pedc alloy pedals
    BB: AliExpress no-name 100x177 sealed
    Rear Derailleur: cheapo Tourney TY300, extended range with Chinese no-name tailhook
    Shifter: Sunlite 8spd/brake lever combo
    Brakes: Front, Avid Elixir 1 and G3 203mm rotor. Back Avid BB7 and G3 203mm rotor

    Weighed in at 39lbs in full trim. I had to slightly manipulate the chainstays for the 4.9 tires. My buddy Mike @ Capital Region Customs (upstate NY) powdercoated the frame/fork for me in prismatic powders H.D. teal over heavy silver. I couldn't be happier.

  23. #2823
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    Sweet bike, I like everything about it! Just researched that BB that you posted, I might order that one before winter gets here, does it change the Q-factor at all or are your feet just as far apart as the stock BB.

    Nice work.

  24. #2824
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    Quote Originally Posted by momikey View Post
    Sweet bike, I like everything about it! Just researched that BB that you posted, I might order that one before winter gets here, does it change the Q-factor at all or are your feet just as far apart as the stock BB.

    Nice work.
    Thanks man! I've put some serious work into this thing and a bit of money, but I'm still happy I did.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20170823_121822.jpg
    Spindle width is very close to stock. It spins very smooth, too. I'd definitely recommend it. I think I paid around ~$20 shipped and it arrived in about 15 days.

    -JD

  25. #2825
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRealJonnyD View Post
    Thanks man! I've put some serious work into this thing and a bit of money, but I'm still happy I did.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Spindle width is very close to stock. It spins very smooth, too. I'd definitely recommend it. I think I paid around ~$20 shipped and it arrived in about 15 days.

    -JD
    Nice bike! I've been looking at a few parts from AliExpress... which party's would you order again? How do you like the Wake stem? I've thought about aluminum bars from AE, but I think I'll go carbon from XMCarbonspeed instead.

  26. #2826
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    Looking at this bike again this morning and I'm tempted to ask one of the guys in the Vinson thread to sell me their stock set of wheels if they've upgraded. Also did you notice a difference with the fork, I kinda love my Dolo in the snow so I never thought about a fork swap.

  27. #2827
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    Ok, so I have AliExpress 110x167 bottom bracket here for the Malus and a brand new Deore LX E-type derailleur for $5. It was listed as dual pull when I ordered, but the packaging it came in has bottom pull on it. I also picked up Altus SL-M310 front shifter as well. Already have Vuelta crankset installed on the stock BB for the time being.

    I'm assuming derailleur will mount to the frame as pictured, correct? What else is needed to make this work? I was looking at some problem solvers cable guides and cable stops etc. What would be the best way and most economical to get this done? I can still return unopened Altus shifter if this is gonna turn into a nightmare and too much expense and be out $5 for the mech. I will put in sealed BB in either way.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-lemeua5.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-rcnx1dl.jpg
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  28. #2828
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    Quote Originally Posted by momikey View Post
    Looking at this bike again this morning and I'm tempted to ask one of the guys in the Vinson thread to sell me their stock set of wheels if they've upgraded. Also did you notice a difference with the fork, I kinda love my Dolo in the snow so I never thought about a fork swap.
    The vinson fork is quite a bit lighter and has slightly more axle to crown height, so the tire clearance is better. These Chaoyang 26 x 4.9s are F'n massive, so the clearance is appreciated. I didn't really notice too much difference in handling, but it's not very stiff. If a carbon fork pops up for cheap I'll likely swap it out.

    All in all, out of my random assortment of 15 or so bikes -- this one is my favorite. It started as a stock, $125 Craigslist special and turned into something great (to me lol).

  29. #2829
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRealJonnyD View Post
    I present to you, my Dolomite.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Frame: Dolomite
    Fork: Vinson
    Bars: Generic carbon fiber 660mm
    Stem: Wake BMX style
    Headset: AEST sealed bearing
    Seat: Gav1n
    Seatpost: EVO 400mm
    Wheels: Vinson
    Tires: Chaoyang 26x4.9
    Tubes: QTubes 2.3 superlight
    Cassette: Sunrace 8spd 11-42t
    Crankset: Vuelta MTB comp 175, setup for 1x with Snail 30t narrow-wide, k-pedc alloy pedals
    BB: AliExpress no-name 100x177 sealed
    Rear Derailleur: cheapo Tourney TY300, extended range with Chinese no-name tailhook
    Shifter: Sunlite 8spd/brake lever combo
    Brakes: Front, Avid Elixir 1 and G3 203mm rotor. Back Avid BB7 and G3 203mm rotor

    Weighed in at 39lbs in full trim. I had to slightly manipulate the chainstays for the 4.9 tires. My buddy Mike @ Capital Region Customs (upstate NY) powdercoated the frame/fork for me in prismatic powders H.D. teal over heavy silver. I couldn't be happier.
    Nice bike. How did you manipulate the chainstays for the bigger tires?

  30. #2830
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    That is a good looking bike. Is that weight a typo? Everything is lighter than stock and it only saved 6 lbs.

  31. #2831
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    What's up Fatboys?

    Haven't posted since back in March. The Malus is still riding like new and haven't made any upgrades since my last post due to finances. But it is still shifting smoothly and I am still rocking those stock Chinese tires. I don't know if I will change them. They seem to perform really well in deep sand and climbing as well. Those are my two biggest obstacle in this area. Weight of the tires has not been an issue at all. Also control has never been an issue either. Don't ask me how many miles are on it, because I just get on and ride. Not a strava or gps guy. Been real busy lately but still find time to ride the local trails. Mostly pavement thru the summer due to ticks here in the pines. Still loving this bike after 8 months and a lot of miles. I am not a jumper when I ride so I can't give you any advice on that. But I ride a lot of hilly trails with endless stumps for some fast bumpy rides. The bike has held up well. Rear axle still holding up too. About to start hitting the trails again. Will keep you posted and pics to come soon. Ride fat my friends.

  32. #2832
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    and btw. RealJohnny. Great job Looks Awesome!!!

  33. #2833
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_0085.jpgHas anybody converted a hitch to single speed? Just thinking about it.

  34. #2834
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    Can someone confirm which bottom bracket from AliExpress works with the malus? The last few pages mention a 100x177 sealed bottom bracket which seems too wide for the malus and then someone else bought a 110x167 sealed bottom bracket but he never posted pics with everything installed. I replaced my huffy frame with a 2017 malus frame and I love it, just need that bb replaced. Thanks.

  35. #2835
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luis_fx35 View Post
    Can someone confirm which bottom bracket from AliExpress works with the malus? The last few pages mention a 100x177 sealed bottom bracket which seems too wide for the malus and then someone else bought a 110x167 sealed bottom bracket but he never posted pics with everything installed. I replaced my huffy frame with a 2017 malus frame and I love it, just need that bb replaced. Thanks.
    I was told this 110mm here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fat-...311.0.0.8WZ3yb

  36. #2836
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    This is a very cool thread.
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  37. #2837
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    Thanks, I'll post some pics later today

  38. #2838
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    I just joined the forum, however I remember looking at this post YEARS ago when I was looking to buy my fat bike. Ended up with a Mongoose Hitch, which has gone through some major changes since it's initial purchase!

    I actually recently started a YouTube page, and the first few videos featured my Hitch. If you're interested, have a look and let me know what you think.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHH...g4AsBkDzdr2Djg

    I just got some new camera gear, and am almost done revamping my workshop so that I can make higher quality videos. If anyone wants to see a "How to" video of upgrades I've done, or any other videos, feel free to let me know.

    Anyways... Here's my beauty!

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-mongoose-hitch.jpg

  39. #2839
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    Quote Originally Posted by highspeedgt View Post
    I just joined the forum, however I remember looking at this post YEARS ago when I was looking to buy my fat bike. Ended up with a Mongoose Hitch, which has gone through some major changes since it's initial purchase!

    I actually recently started a YouTube page, and the first few videos featured my Hitch. If you're interested, have a look and let me know what you think.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHH...g4AsBkDzdr2Djg

    I just got some new camera gear, and am almost done revamping my workshop so that I can make higher quality videos. If anyone wants to see a "How to" video of upgrades I've done, or any other videos, feel free to let me know.

    Anyways... Here's my beauty!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That is a great looking bike. I'm just finishing building up Malus for my brother for winter. Should be right around $350CAD all finished. Very similar upgrades to yours so far.

    Subscribed to your channel. Funny, was just helping my friend paint garage floor in his new house a day before you posted that video.
    2018 RSD Middlechild
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    2010 Giant STP SS

  40. #2840
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    That is a great looking bike. I'm just finishing building up Malus for my brother for winter. Should be right around $350CAD all finished. Very similar upgrades to yours so far.

    Subscribed to your channel. Funny, was just helping my friend paint garage floor in his new house a day before you posted that video.
    Awesome, and thanks for the sub! I was initially looking for a Malus, but I could never seem to catch one at a good price. I actually snagged this Hitch on Black Friday for $135!!!

    The weather here has been a bit crummy the past week or so, so I figured I'd revamp my workshop. Just finished it up yesterday and did a review of my CO-OP hardtail in the new workspace.

  41. #2841
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    Hey guys, wondering if anyone knows if the Dolomiteís headtube is capable to take the cane creak EC 44/40 conversion headset to accept Tapered forks?

  42. #2842
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    Waiting on my hitch to arrive Iíve already ordered some upgraded parts has anyone recently ordered from amazon and had any issues once it was received anything in particular I should be looking out for? Iíve read pretty much through all of this thread but things have changed over the years so Iím unsure on what to expect. Iím a real beginner havenít rode a bike since my early teens (bmx) days so this is going to be an adventure. I want to do some trails but most likely Iíll be rural riding street/woods depending on Wheather. I was on a pretty tight budget not wanting to dump too much money in until Iím sure Iím going to actually use whatever bike I picked up. Has anyone updated the suspension on the solo or hitch?

  43. #2843
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    Donít ride it, re-adjust and re-grease the hubs or permanent damage will occur because the hubs and headset are over tighten from factory. If you donít have cone wrenches or the proper tools take it to a local bike shop and tell them to adjust the hubs and headset. Upgrade little by little to shed some weight over time. The Luna Lander suspension fork will fit because it is a straight steerer and has quick release dropouts which fit the bike hubs. You will fall in love with this bike, have fun and enjoy 👍😁.

  44. #2844
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    Question which hyraulic brake system has been used is it the Shimano M315 800mm and rear 1450mm? Itís available on Amazon...

    Also thinking of getting a Shimano Altus or the SRAM X1 BB30 crankset.. any one have recommendations

  45. #2845
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteeleRyder View Post
    Question which hyraulic brake system has been used is it the Shimano M315 800mm and rear 1450mm? Itís available on Amazon...

    Also thinking of getting a Shimano Altus or the SRAM X1 BB30 crankset.. any one have recommendations
    Yes, I have the M315 800mm/1450mm on my Hitch, which I got off Amazon. You'll have to shorten the rear hose, because it's about 8 inches too long. You'll also need to find a way to secure it to the frame, because it won't fit inside the top tube cable stays.

  46. #2846
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteeleRyder View Post
    Waiting on my hitch to arrive Iíve already ordered some upgraded parts has anyone recently ordered from amazon and had any issues once it was received anything in particular I should be looking out for? Iíve read pretty much through all of this thread but things have changed over the years so Iím unsure on what to expect. Iím a real beginner havenít rode a bike since my early teens (bmx) days so this is going to be an adventure. I want to do some trails but most likely Iíll be rural riding street/woods depending on Wheather. I was on a pretty tight budget not wanting to dump too much money in until Iím sure Iím going to actually use whatever bike I picked up. Has anyone updated the suspension on the solo or hitch?
    This is an awesome bike to get back into riding! I agree with Luis_fx35 that the hubs, and in my case bottom bracket and headset need to be cleaned, greased, and adjusted before any riding occurs. They are poorly setup out of the box.

    I haven't done any suspension upgrades, and I ride this thing hard. I have done several other upgrades though. I cover them all in one of my recent videos. Have a look if you're interested.
    https://youtu.be/ytaJ3TRHlOU

  47. #2847
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    Thanks Iím going to add those to my next order! I havenít assembled my hitch yet, just got it last night. Once I do Iíll have it ran through by my local shop cause I donít have everything I need. Or should I just order a basic bike mechanic tool kit and do it myself Iím pretty sure I can get mostly all the tools I need for what Iím going to pay someone to do a full run through. Whatís your thoughts? Is it worth having a professional run through it?

  48. #2848
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteeleRyder View Post
    Thanks Iím going to add those to my next order! I havenít assembled my hitch yet, just got it last night. Once I do Iíll have it ran through by my local shop cause I donít have everything I need. Or should I just order a basic bike mechanic tool kit and do it myself Iím pretty sure I can get mostly all the tools I need for what Iím going to pay someone to do a full run through. Whatís your thoughts? Is it worth having a professional run through it?
    That depends on your confidence level and desire to work on the bike. I am a huge advocate of doing my own bike work, and having the tools is a huge bonus down the road for any additional repairs. I'm confident that you can get all the tools to make these adjustments for less (probably substantially less) than paying a bike mechanic.

  49. #2849
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    Did anybody mount Snowshoe XL 4.8" tires on the Malus? Wondering if these fit.
    2018 RSD Middlechild
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    2010 Giant STP SS

  50. #2850
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    Tried to install sealed 110x167mm bottom bracket on the Malus I got from AliExpress earlier this year and while it fits and both Vuelta crank arms (converted to bash guard/32/22T) clear chain stays without issue, spindle on the drive side sticks out less than on the non drive side meaning chain will rub tire in the easiest gear on freewheel and 22T up front. I'm guessing I can't install this bottom bracket from non drive side with the cup on drive side as it does not want to thread in...?


    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-djtr7fah.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-pcwxrm2h.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-cfqrkezh.jpg



    Original axle is 175mm long, so what are my options at this point apart from ordering YST cup set?
    Last edited by kryten; 11-10-2017 at 08:59 AM.
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  51. #2851
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    Finally got everything assembled with a few upgrades and I must say... the hitch is a very nice ride! Everything came in as it should have upgraded to rapid fire shifter and mega range free wheel of course had to update the grips next upgrade is the seat cause itís killing me.... lol.. Iím a big guy 6í0 370 and itís rough... bike handles my weight great.. canít say itís a breeze uphill Iíve only had 3 short rides and well Iíve felt everyone of them afterwards. I ride motorcycles and for the most part Iím very athletic even at my weight so maneuvering is no big deal even did some jumps nonthing too much just seeing how it would up...

  52. #2852
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    Reasembled everything with original unsealed bottom bracket cups, packed with tons of grease though. Will most likely get the YST sealed cup set especially as this is a winter snow bike if only I could find it somewhere for 'reasonable price'. Shipped to Canada from Amazon or ebay is over $40 CAD and on our own wonderful Amazon.ca it is $66 + shipping, wtf? That is just outrageous.
    Last edited by kryten; 11-08-2017 at 07:01 AM.
    2018 RSD Middlechild
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  53. #2853
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Resembled everything with original unsealed bottom bracket cups, packed with tons of grease though. Will most likely get the YST sealed cup set especially as this is a winter snow bike if only I could find it somewhere for 'reasonable price'. Shipped to Canada from Amazon or ebay is over $40 CAD and on our own wonderful Amazon.ca it is $66 + shipping, wtf? That is just outrageous.
    Where did you buy one of these bikes in Canada?

  54. #2854
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    Quote Originally Posted by headwind View Post
    Where did you buy one of these bikes in Canada?
    Kijiji for $150 slightly used. Canadian tire used to sell Ironhorse Dolomite (same as Mongoose Dolomite) and now Schwinn Biggity Dlx (same as Mongoose Malus).
    2018 RSD Middlechild
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  55. #2855
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Kijiji for $150 slightly used. Canadian tire used to sell Ironhorse Dolomite (same as Mongoose Dolomite) and now Schwinn Biggity Dlx (same as Mongoose Malus).
    I'd buy one just to thrash it!

  56. #2856
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    @Kryten.

    Why not buy a RF BB and crank complete for $104usd? UniversalCycles has them at a decent price.

  57. #2857
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pack66 View Post
    @Kryten.

    Why not buy a RF BB and crank complete for $104usd? UniversalCycles has them at a decent price.
    I already bought and installed Vuelta crankset and cheap sealed 110x167mm bottom bracket. That sealed bottom bracket would work if I was doing 1x, but for 2x with 22T granny gear it does not. I will try to do the garden hose O ring trick today and will be maintaining and regressing stock BB regularly I guess...
    2018 RSD Middlechild
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  58. #2858
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    Shouldn't any external cup BSA BB work for this thing?

  59. #2859
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    Test ride last night, perfect conditions.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-9aszi5bh.jpg
    2018 RSD Middlechild
    2016 Norco Sasquatch 6.1
    2010 Giant STP SS

  60. #2860
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    Hey guys, I have a 2017 Malus with the red drilled wheels. My seat post keep moving even though I only weight 145 lbs. I purchased a better seat clamp but I noticed that the stock clamp is welded to the seat tube. Have anyone replaced the the seat clamp and encountered this problem on the Dolo, Hitch, or the old Malus? I donít know how to remove it without damaging the seat tube and the paint? Thanks

  61. #2861
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    Did garden hose O ring mod to 'seal' the bottom bracket. I think it turned out ok and looks like it should keep out most of the grime from entering bb shell and wiping away grease.

    My first winter test ride went well apart from wiping out on ice less than a minute into my ride. (I'm used to my Dillingers)

    So today got bored and drilled holes and studded these Chaoyang 4.0 tires that come stock on the Malus with the 30 left over studs I had from studding my D5s last winter. Was planning to use Gorilla glue or some sort of silicone sealant but wanted to go for a ride already and did not. 30 is of course not enough to make much difference, mainly wanted to see if they would hold. Spent almost two hours on trails and some pavement riding commuting to trails and did not loose a single one.

    Unfortunately these tires, while probably half the weight of the original Dolo tires, are not adequate for any type of winter trail riding. Main issue is complete lack or corner knobs. Even in the rear they don't have much bite. I was planing to get some more studs, but now my dilemma is if it is even worth studding or should I just get better tires first.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-gzkpbvlh.jpg
    2018 RSD Middlechild
    2016 Norco Sasquatch 6.1
    2010 Giant STP SS

  62. #2862
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    So Iíve really been enjoying my hitch! So far Iíve upgraded the grips,freewheel, and shifters. I ran across a deal online looking for some new crank arms and got a race face turbine crankset for 40.00 bucks it was normally a whole lot more up to 280.00.. I also ordered bsa sealed bearings for the bottom bracket as I doubt the race face one will fit but I wanted bettter crank arms so it was a good deal. All thatís left is my bars and stem and brakes for now. At some point I might update the headset and forks but for now thatís the only plans I have. As far as the stem and bars Iím thinking about keeping it race face whatís your thoughts on their products... Iíve found a race face respond set for like 80.00 bucks bars are 785 stem is 45 degrees, feeling like this cheap fat bike will be a super nice ride when Its all said and done. It is heavy but I havenít upgraded the seat post are tubes and tires that will lighten it up at least 8 pounds from what I understand...

  63. #2863
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    Hey, you wild and crazy Dolomiters. I just wanted to offer you various take-off parts from my Diamondback El Oso Grande. Chances are, they would be upgrades, so if you think you might want them, they're yours for the cost of shipping.

    I have a set of 31.8 mm bars, a seat (and a seatpost, but I think it is too thick for the Dolo), and a 1 1/8" stem up for grabs.

    Let me know if you want any of these items.
    2016 El Oso Grande
    2018 Stolen Zeke
    90's Skykomish

  64. #2864
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    Just bought a 2017 Dolomite black with blue rims and over the last 3 weeks I have done some upgrades to it as well as tearing down all bearings and cleaning and regreasing them. After the initial rebuild, including adjustments to the brakes, I wasn't impressed with the braking (yeah, I know now that there is a break in period) so I swapped out the rotors for a set of 203mm Ice-Tech RT 86's. I used Shimano adapters and found that they were a direct fit for the rears, but for the front I had to go to the LBS to find an oversized bracket that I could machine to fit so that the adapter and caliper would fit. Just curious if anyone else has had this difficulty?

  65. #2865
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    I use BB7 calipers with 160mm rotors so I'm not sure about a rotor that big if you are using stock calipers.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1172.jpg

    -15 this weekend in VT.

  66. #2866
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    So I just got my new Hitch and immediately went to work. Carbon bars, Avid brake levers, sun race trigger shifter, Kore lite seat post and seat, and a xt Mtb crank set. I'm surprised and disappointed that it still comes in at 43lbs. Will tires and tubes make that big of a reduction?

  67. #2867
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gelthos View Post
    So I just got my new Hitch and immediately went to work. Carbon bars, Avid brake levers, sun race trigger shifter, Kore lite seat post and seat, and a xt Mtb crank set. I'm surprised and disappointed that it still comes in at 43lbs. Will tires and tubes make that big of a reduction?
    Tires alone can knock 3-5 pounds off.
    2016 El Oso Grande
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  68. #2868
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    At an absolute minimum, replace the tubes and rim strip. Throwing in something like a 27.5+ tube or a 26x2.7 DH tube will knock off at least a pound. replacing the rim strip with tape helps too. I think the stock tubes were from tractors or left overs from the 1930's. Stock tires aren't that far off.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  69. #2869
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    Set your wheels up tubeless with stretch wrap and new, lighter tires if you can. This took over 8 lbs off of my GMC Yukon.

    See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tub...e-1066204.html

    Removing rotating weight is the first place you should start, it makes more difference than anywhere else on the bike.

  70. #2870
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Set your wheels up tubeless with stretch wrap and new, lighter tires if you can. This took over 8 lbs off of my GMC Yukon.

    See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tub...e-1066204.html

    Removing rotating weight is the first place you should start, it makes more difference than anywhere else on the bike.
    I was wondering about going tubeless.

  71. #2871
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    Bump in hopes everyone is riding and not posting!

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1310.jpgThe Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1311.jpg

  72. #2872
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gelthos View Post
    I was wondering about going tubeless.
    I've gone tubeless with FBNs. Used the ghetto tubeless method with split tubes. Well worth the hassle for Arizona trails.

  73. #2873
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    Dolomite black&blue version is back in stock at Wally World. For $179.99 again. https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Mongoo...&wl13=&veh=sem

  74. #2874
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    Quote Originally Posted by momikey View Post
    I use BB7 calipers with 160mm rotors so I'm not sure about a rotor that big if you are using stock calipers.
    Got some miles on the 203's and they are working out great with the stock calipers. With me currently at 315lbs the bike around 50, I definitely need the extra braking. I'll be throwing on another 30-50 in gear to do some back country fishing. Hopefully by mid summer I'll be a lot lighter.
    Last edited by Vtwinsideways; 02-23-2018 at 11:47 PM. Reason: Shortening

  75. #2875
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    Possible upgrade time. Fat suspension
    Has anybody had any experience with the Whool or Pasak fat forks? I've seen a couple posts about the spring cartridge version with 28mm stanchions, but they seem to be the same as a suntour XCT. OK fork, but a little flexy under a clyde. There is a 32mm stanchion air cartridge version that I'm looking at. If you have one (or want to buy one and be a test dummy), speak up. Here's a link to one of them, but there are other sellers out there.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kalo...796974016.html
    https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N1JX29B

    cross posted to a couple of the other non-lbs fatbike discussions.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  76. #2876
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    Two different quetions...

    A. Can anybody tell me if a Maxxis FBR or FBF 26 x 4.8 tire will fit on the back of a Mongoose Hitch? Info on the other Mongoose Fat Bikes would be helpful as well.

    B. What are the differences in the Hitch and Dolomite frames? Particularly when it comes to fitting a large rear tire...I know they are very similar but are they identical...would a wider tire fit on the rear of the Dolomite than the Hitch.

    Appreciate any help.

  77. #2877
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog123 View Post
    ...B. What are the differences in the Hitch and Dolomite frames? Particularly when it comes to fitting a large rear tire...I know they are very similar but are they identical...would a wider tire fit on the rear of the Dolomite than the Hitch.
    Dolomites are not even identical.
    outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim
    • original Dolomite March 2014, 8 3/16"
    • late summer/fall 2014, 191mm (7.52")

    So are you getting a used one or a new one? Perhaps people with a new/newer frame can measure for you or post what fits theirs.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  78. #2878
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Possible upgrade time. Fat suspension
    Has anybody had any experience with the Whool or Pasak fat forks? I've seen a couple posts about the spring cartridge version with 28mm stanchions, but they seem to be the same as a suntour XCT. OK fork, but a little flexy under a clyde. There is a 32mm stanchion air cartridge version that I'm looking at. If you have one (or want to buy one and be a test dummy), speak up. Here's a link to one of them, but there are other sellers out there.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kalo...796974016.html
    https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N1JX29B

    cross posted to a couple of the other non-lbs fatbike discussions.
    I ordered a front wheel assembly (27.5 x 52mm internal width rim) for a Mongoose Terrex and it was less than $50 delivered to my door. I then bought a Suntour XCR fork (about $100) and replaced the front end on my Hitch...used a 2.8" wide Maxxis DHF tire.

    Steers a lot quicker and still rides very nice.

  79. #2879
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Dolomites are not even identical.
    outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim
    • original Dolomite March 2014, 8 3/16"
    • late summer/fall 2014, 191mm (7.52")

    So are you getting a used one or a new one? Perhaps people with a new/newer frame can measure for you or post what fits theirs.
    Thanks Canoe...yea Mongoose tends to make changes along the way that is why it is important for everyone to record the model and date code on the bottom of the seat stay before it falls apart. I have two Mongoose Terrexs...one is 135mm rear spacing and the other one is 147mm (I think...it is wider).

  80. #2880
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Dolomites are not even identical.
    outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim
    • original Dolomite March 2014, 8 3/16"
    • late summer/fall 2014, 191mm (7.52")

    So are you getting a used one or a new one? Perhaps people with a new/newer frame can measure for you or post what fits theirs.
    Just measured my Hitch...it is the same as the later Dolomite...about 7.5".

    Dang just when Walmart gets the Dolomite back in stock too...oh well I have the 4.8 Maxxis FBR ordered and I am going to try it. My measurements indicate it is going to be really close on whether it fits or not.

    Thanks again for the info and the quick response.

  81. #2881
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    Freewheels

    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    What 8 speed freewheel are you planning on? I have a DNP Epoch that I'm planning to install tonight.
    FWIW, anybody changing the Freewheel (some call it a cassette but the correct terminology is a Freewheel)....the DNP has a finer engagement (more teeth) than most Freewheels and works quite well IMO.

    It is possible to disassemble a DNP freewheel and the four smallest gears can be interchanged or exchanged for gears from a cassette. Not something I would recommend because the little nut that holds the gears on is very thin. The ID of the gears is a nine spline just like the gears on a cassette...the three big gears are different. Other brands of Freewheels are different and do not allow this mod.

  82. #2882
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog123 View Post
    ...It is possible to disassemble a DNP freewheel and the four smallest gears can be interchanged or exchanged for gears from a cassette. Not something I would recommend because the little nut that holds the gears on is very thin. The ID of the gears is a nine spline just like the gears on a cassette...the three big gears are different. Other brands of Freewheels are different and do not allow this mod.
    I don't believe I've heard of that before. Is it too late for you to post photos of that?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  83. #2883
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    I don't believe I've heard of that before. Is it too late for you to post photos of that?
    Yes, It is all back together and I am riding it now...actually have a BBSHD electric motor powering it. That is why I need to change the gearing around. Had to disassemble it with a punch and a hammer. One option for putting it back together is to leave off the smallest gear and find a nut with the correct threads. I couldn't find one...that is why I used blue loctite and the original nut.

    Even the two local bike shops I checked with didn't have a tool/spanner to fit the nut...I am sure DNP did not intend for anyone to take their Freewheel apart.

  84. #2884
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    Photos of the end setup?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  85. #2885
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Photos of the end setup?
    The pink nail polish is on the little nut...be careful, it is only about one thread thick.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-1.jpg  


  86. #2886
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    Thanks!

    That's one limited chainline off the front. Why the high tooth count? Not enough torque?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  87. #2887
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Thanks!

    That's one limited chainline off the front. Why the high tooth count? Not enough torque?
    I ride single track/off road only and I geared it to have the motor spinning full speed when the bike is going about 18 mph. I run a 28 tooth front on the bike pictured and on the rear I can use the cog the chain is on or one on either side of it and the chain line stays very straight.

    IMO, if anyone is building an electric bike and intends to ride off road...the only choice for a motor is the Bafang BBSHD. I started with a MAC IGH motor and tried everything possible to keep it from overheating with no luck.

    The BBSHD is about as simple as it gets as far as installation.

    I'd recommend a 14s battery as well...can't go over 60 volts or the BBSHD will throw an error and with the 14s you have a little more power than the 13s...8% more as a matter of fact.

  88. #2888
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    So would a Dolomite off Craigslist be the cheap and fun introduction to fat biking that I think it would be?

    How do they fit a taller rider (6'2")?

  89. #2889
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93EXCivic View Post
    How do they fit a taller rider (6'2")?
    I can't comment on fit.

    But, they're a very "budget" bike.
    To get any life out of them, before you ever ride it you need to check, clean, grease, the front & rear hubs, bottom bracket, sometimes others.
    If you're buying used, was that done, or what components are now trash on the bike you're looking at.

    It will take some bike knowledge to check it out and know if you're looking at replacing the rear or rear hubs, bottom bracket, etc..
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  90. #2890
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    I figured I would throw a few of the upgrades on here at it if I did buy one since honestly many of them are pretty cheap changes. Plus giving it a good once over.

  91. #2891
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93EXCivic View Post
    I figured I would throw a few of the upgrades on here at it if I did buy one since honestly many of them are pretty cheap changes. Plus giving it a good once over.
    Most people do, but one of the common issues out-of-the-box is incorrect hub bearing torque and/or dirt/metal in the grease. If that wasn't addressed, hubs & relacing can cost. And hard to resisting going for new spokes & nipples. And upgrade to cassette instead of freewheel. Starts to add up.

    Spindles are soft too, so not only BB bearings, but possibly replacing a bent or destroyed spindle. At 6'2" you're likely a Clyde too, so fairly common to end up with a bent spindle down the line. Look back through recent pages for the cartridge replacement that uses the out-swept crank arms. That cartridge is not a direct replacement, but with the correct crank arms people report it's working.

    Do consider the cost of a used Dolo PLUS all of the repairs and upgrades you'd need or want. Then compare that to the cost of a used better Fat Bike in good repair.

    That said, I'm not parting with my Dolo...
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  92. #2892
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    Here is my take on any of the Mongoose fat tire bikes...Hitch, Dolomite, Malus, etc.

    Fairly strong frame but all of the components on the bikes i.e. shifters, brakes (levers, calipers, and pads), derailleur, pedals and just about anything you can unbolt is on the cheap end of the scale...that is how you can buy it for less than $200. If you are just going to cruise around on the bike and not get too serious or rough with it the bike is great. All of the cheap components work, just not as efficiently as a $3,000 bike.

    You can slowly but surely upgrade components and still have a lot less in the bike than anything that will compete with it but it is going to take you some time and money.

    If anyone ever tries to disassemble the bottom bracket, I'd highly recommend you watch the video I am posting a link to at the bottom...I have had several Mongoose bikes that must have had a 1,000 lb gorilla on the assembly line tightening the cup that screws into the frame. I actually chipped a large craftsman crescent wrench attempting to disassemble the bottom bracket. Following the procedures in the video and soaking it with penetrating oil for a few days made it a piece of cake.

    Here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9oIUmdI5JU

  93. #2893
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog123 View Post
    ...You can slowly but surely upgrade components and still have a lot less in the bike than anything that will compete with it but it is going to take you some time and money...
    You can, but this is not necessarily true.
    It depends on what you upgrade, used or new parts, and the level/quality of parts, and paying for the work or DIY.

    In looking at the Total Cost of one's upgrades, a number of people have upgraded the Dolo to the point where they could have spent the same money - or less - and got a lot more bike, used and even new. It will depend on your choices (which are often determined by what is available in used parts where you are, and in your DIY skills).

    Plus the choice on replace/upgrade can be taken away from you if you're buying used and miss that something is trashed and must be replaced before you can safely ride.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  94. #2894
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Most people do, but one of the common issues out-of-the-box is incorrect hub bearing torque and/or dirt/metal in the grease. If that wasn't addressed, hubs & relacing can cost. And hard to resisting going for new spokes & nipples. And upgrade to cassette instead of freewheel. Starts to add up.

    Spindles are soft too, so not only BB bearings, but possibly replacing a bent or destroyed spindle. At 6'2" you're likely a Clyde too, so fairly common to end up with a bent spindle down the line. Look back through recent pages for the cartridge replacement that uses the out-swept crank arms. That cartridge is not a direct replacement, but with the correct crank arms people report it's working.

    Do consider the cost of a used Dolo PLUS all of the repairs and upgrades you'd need or want. Then compare that to the cost of a used better Fat Bike in good repair.

    That said, I'm not parting with my Dolo...
    Ok maybe it makes sense to spend the bit extra to get a new one? Either way, I figured on checking the hubs, repacking the bearings, new tubes and maybe YST bearing and cup before riding. I'd hit some of the lighter trails and see if I like a fat bike. I figure if I don't at all I could sell for some lose of money but not the end of the world. If I kind of liked I could hold on to a Dolomite and slowly do little upgrades and use it for those occasional time I want a fat bike. I really like modifying and tweaking things so it would be a fun project if nothing else. If I really liked fat biking, I'd sell the Dolomite and grab a nicer fat bike. As far as the Clyde, I am currently 215lb but trying to get down to 200-205 over the next few months. Not sure if that counts as a clyde or not.

  95. #2895
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    Sounds like you're looking at it in the right way and have or can develop the skills for the work that make upgrades economical.

    Used Dolo is fine, IF you can determine the condition of what you're getting. You might even find one with key upgrades done.
    But buying new is the way to be as sure as one can. Just make sure you service everything before you ever ride it, or else you can be trashing the bearing surfaces.

    No one has chimed in yet, but a number of taller riders got longer seat posts. Some a longer tube and/or riser stem; some with riser bars (like BMX).

    Like fat
    Great idea to test 'fat bike', but ride a Dolo vs. ride a nice Fat Bike can be two different things. Some people have tried a Dolo as a first fat and had it turn them off of fat, then later rode a 'nice' Fat Bike and went wow. With the parts and skills, you can imitate nice for a good price; watch your costs.

    Clyde - BB
    The YST at no wiggle yet zero preload is amazing. Best BB I've ever had, even over Shimano XT and XTR (not on Dolo). The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite - Page 12- Mtbr.com
    But rider weight or punching can bend the spindle. Hence the cartridge BB with the swept crank arms.

    Clyde - rear axle
    And its soft rear axle can get bent too. (Soft rod combined with freewheel hub: bearings are at freewheel locations, not cassette locations...)
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-freehub-vs.-freewheel-red-bearing.jpg

    So if you end up replacing the rear hub, a rider with some weight should be going freehub & cassette not freewheel hub.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  96. #2896
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    I've got a 9 speed freewheel (generic Chinese I think) I picked up at a local co-op. Planning to put it and an old 9 speed shifter on fairly soon. Hopefully no adjustment needed to the chainline.

  97. #2897
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93EXCivic View Post
    How do they fit a taller rider (6'2")?
    Being 6'4", I'll chime in on this. You'll need a crazy long seat post, and it will need to be decent quality. I bought a $15 one that was 450mm long, and it bent on the first ride, on asphalt and gravel. To me, the cost to get a good seat post plus common "little" upgrades justifies the upgrade cost to get one off bikesdirect.

    $400 bikesdirect fatbike; 8 speed, alloy handlebar and seatpost, alloy brake levers,

    $200 mongoose + $40 for basic 8-speed freewheel and shifter, $10 for grips, $10 for some brake levers, $25 for a seatpost, $15 for a handlebar. Lets call it $300. This still will have the 10 pound tubes, uncomfortable seat, heavy steel frame, freewheel rear hub, oversize front chainring (ok for road, not for trails, easily messed up bottom bracket and wheel bearings, and questionable quality brake calipers. All of which will need to be completely taken apart, re-greased, and reassembled. I guarantee they will not be good from the factory. I found metal shavings in every bearing plus the front wheel had a damaged bearing race from when they over tightened it during assembly.

    Not saying you wouldn't have problems with bikesdirect stuff, but at least it starts out a little better and is much easier to work on. If you don't plan on doing any upgrades or would heavily modify any bike you get anyway, the dolomite (and it's family of fat) will work.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  98. #2898
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    Hey all, just grabbed a used dolo (appears lightly used, almost zero usage really). One thing I searched for here is weight tolerance and I can't come up with a solid answer.

    The guy stated it was about a year old, figuring 2016/2017 model (common blue/red). When I ride it, the front has a random squealing sound (not brakes). It appears more aggressive when I pedal. It's definitely only when I ride on it, otherwise makes no noise when I roll it around.

    I can't tell if it's the headset or front wheel axel/bearings. The rear which has most of the weight does not make the random squeal. It is a random but often occuring squeal, each lasting a 1~3 seconds. No specific pattern or riding style changes the random sound, except a bit more while pedaling.

    Since I have stock (need to change) far forward handlebars, I'm leaning a bit hard forward on the headset. It kinda hurts my hands. And the sound is really hard to target, headset or wheel. It almost sounds in between them. Very odd!

    Ideas? Thanks!

  99. #2899
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    watts888...what are you going to do to tension your chain? I just installed a Surly "Singleator" on my single speed Hitch which is really just a red Dolomite and it works great.

    omi...I think you are on the right track i.e. a bearing. My first guess would be the front wheel bearings. Mongoose is notorious for over tightening them. But it could be the headset. Pull the front wheel and grease the wheel bearings then check the preload on the bearings. Make sure that the preload doesn't change when you are installing the wheel and tightening the nuts on the axle. I think you'll need a 17mm cone wrench...I bought a set of cone wrenches from Jensonusa not long: Foundation Cone Wrench Tool Set | Jenson USA

  100. #2900
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    Not odd at all.
    Very typical for bikes at this price point (and seen in the Dolo) to arrive as new with debris in any/all of the bearings, including bits of metal shavings.
    As new, before ever riding this bike (or others of similar quality) you need to clean out and degrease the bearings, regrease and take care when setting the torque (don't over torque and damage the low quality bearings), as the threads at this price point are sloppy and it may take a few tries to get it right.
    As your bike was obviously driven, likely before the above servicing was done, inspect for damage, replace as necessary. You may need to replace the hub.
    Do this servicing for the front, rear, bottom bracket and steering.

    Rear axle and the pedal spindle are known to be of soft material and prone to bending. If you're a clyde, expect this; pedal gently, avoid bumps.
    • Or get a better spindle (source?) or get the replacement cartridge and swept crank arms that has been used successfully as documented in more recent posts in this thread.
    • If you need to replace the rear hub or axle, remember that freewheel hubs have an inboard load on the drive side that tends to bend the axle. Seriously consider a freehub and cassette replacement, instead of another freewheel hub.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  101. #2901
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    Anybody looking for handlebars with more sweep....the "Origin8 Bat Wing MTB Handlebar" works fairly well. They have a 25 degree sweep angle, 660mm wide, and a 31.8mm clamp.
    I went with a Truvativ Hussefelt Stem (40mm length). The bars are about $40...cheapest I could find with 25 degree sweep angle and the stem is about $25. The bars are flat i.e. no rise...you can add a stem riser if you want to raise them up, I did.

    The 660mm width is a little narrow for downhill but works great for riding in the woods so you don't slam your knuckles in to trees .

  102. #2902
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    Thanks for the info Canoe/Bullfrog. I did read half the internet and this forum seems to be the best of the bunch. It's just intimidating as this is the first bike in 25 years for me, just to cruise on paved back streets with my kid.

    I see so many acronyms and informed wording here that it's like a new language. I assume Clyde is a big person in any way? That I am if so. Tall and wide .

    Per the info here I will service all you mentioned (or, have it done to be honest). The front wheel is at the shop as I write this being packed. Over time, the usual total transformation of upgrades will happen but it really is easy for me stock too.

    I looked at some of the saddle recommends and I really need a huge saddle to be comfy. I'm using a pretty large schwinn 11.5" now, but I can bend the metal rails it sits on with one hand. Seated it stays just fine but does anyone have a super comfy, large mens saddle to recommend? (I grew up with banana seats!). I'm about to weld a motorcycle seat on this thing..

    Thanks!

    Edit:

    Exactly like what was just posted while I posted. The stock handlebars are in the dirt. I'm putting half my weight to the headset lunging forward. I need it up like 6 inches or more and toward me. I just need to decrypt the language
    Last edited by omi; 06-01-2018 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Posted while I posted

  103. #2903
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    Try a Nashbar SC1 Comfort Saddle, not the largest but comfy: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...e-nb-sc1s-base

    The cloud 9 seats look good but are pretty wimpy, I bent mine.

    Yep...Clyde is short for Clydesdale i.e. a LARGE horse...or person. I am one as well.

  104. #2904
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    Ahh okay.

    I'm using something that is bigger already, 330mm https://tinyurl.com/y84mhq2k Schwinn Breeze Comfort Foam saddle. It's comfy, I just don't want to be out riding and find out the hard way I'm walking the fat bike home from a few miles away . So if anyone knows of something in that 330mm/13in (could be 11in, doesn't specify which dimension is width/length), and is unusually strong, that's what I need! (Along with brakes, dual crank, brakes, tires/tubes, .......)

  105. #2905
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    I tried the largest Cloud 9 which is 12x12: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat and I like my Nashbar SC-1 better (mine measures 8.5" wide and 11" long).

    Tires depends on the surface you are going to be riding...I have had really good luck with Maxxis. Off road I'd go with the FBF/FBR 26x4.00 with a 60 tpi casing. 60 is stronger and more puncture resistant than 120 but the ride isn't quite as plush..I take care of that with air pressure. The tread pattern is too aggressive for pavement. Anybody have a recommendation for pavement tires?

    Brakes...first upgrade your rotors front and rear to 180mm. Your stock brakes will work better just keep them adjusted. When they get to be too aggravating or you want even more...go to hydraulics. My personal preference is shimano. Here is an option: Shimano BR-M395 Disc Brake | Jenson USA Jenson is pretty helpful if you need it.

  106. #2906
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    I guess it comes down to if anyone knows of some kind of rating or method to know if a seat is strong. The feature points don't say that it strives to be stronger than a typical seat. The two metal rails might be just the same size, same problem. Do those bars have a name or a desirable material stronger than steel? These are the odd niche things I struggle to find.

    Are the Maxxis lighter than stock dolos? I see everyone mention dropping upwards of 7lbs just from tire and tube alone. Are those street tires and/or recommended because they're lighter?

    The bike shop mentioned these bikes have a low aggressive handlebar for a reason. They're meant for hard riding. It might be wrong, but I already have the bike, so is there a hybrid/comfy handlebar that most people use outside standard bmx handlebars? Something that can come close to turning it a bit more like a cruiser? The bmx handlebars make it look a bit strange to me, but who knows, it might be awesome and finally get me sitting more upright. Right now it's just too much pressure on my hands.

  107. #2907
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    Quote Originally Posted by omi View Post
    ... I see everyone mention dropping upwards of 7lbs just from tire and tube alone. Are those street tires and/or recommended because they're lighter? ...
    Reducing the weight is nice as you're not carrying it around, and you'd have faster acceleration, but neither is the major reason for upgrading tire & tube. The primary benefit is greatly reduced rolling resistance. Lowered mass of tires means less robbing of energy as the tire deforms and reforms into/outof the contact patch as it rolls along. Lots of tire choices.

    For the same reason, people like going Getto Tubeless (so instead of a big heavy tube, or a normal tube, there's no tube robbing energy as it deforms and reforms as the wheel rolls along. For your usage, don't bother with Getto Tubeless, and it's a pain to do on a Dolo anyway due to the tire bead seat.

    So ditch the stock tubes; check through the various recommendations, which may vary depending on the tires you chose.

    Quote Originally Posted by omi View Post
    ... so is there a hybrid/comfy handlebar that most people use outside standard bmx handlebars? Something that can come close to turning it a bit more like a cruiser? The bmx handlebars make it look a bit strange to me, but who knows, it might be awesome and finally get me sitting more upright. Right now it's just too much pressure on my hands.
    You can try all sorts, but many people have fit issues with the swept cruiser bars. Can't make the turn when you can't swing the bar through your own body.

    People with the issues you describe usually eventually end up using BMX bars. If you're worried about looking a little weird, remember, it is a fat bike. And who cares if it means you get to ride it without damaging your wrists.

    BMX bars are not all the same. Check out their options.
    I use BMX and an adjustable stem. Gives me max adjust-ability of the location of the grips and the angle of the grips.
    There were some important issues with which style of clamps in the adjustable stem, but I can't find where I put the notes or images.
    (and unfortunately, all of the helpful links became useless with one of the updates to mtbr)
    ah; found this one
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dol...l#post12711435

    You could look at the Ergon GC1 style cork/rubber grips, but with BMX bars it's at different angles and you're no longer putting your upper body weight on your hands, just part of the weight of your arms.

    With Clydes, don't forget stopping power.
    Even upgrading one brake to a BB7 and 180 or ~200 would provide a lot of improvement. Normally braking is primarily done on the front, but with a Clyde sitting up straight, I'd be tempted to put the best on the rear.
    I cheated and just got a set of BB7 on sale for the front and rear.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  108. #2908
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    Ahh I thought the extra weight added centrifugal force which slowed it down overall, didn't think about the plyability. That makes sense and I'll hunt down something less nobby/offroad. It has so much now it sounds like a rumble strip.

    My brakes were misaligned and I already noticed it bending the rotor, digging into the pad at an angle, cutting it up. That was painfully quick! Upgrade and calibration time for sure.

    Thanks for the link and yes I do agree turning will be compromised, and wrists are worth protecting more than anything. Bmx it is!

    Thanks again Canoe, time to go shopping!

  109. #2909
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    Quote Originally Posted by omi View Post
    Ahh I thought the extra weight added centrifugal force which slowed it down overall, didn't think about the plyability.
    The greater mass compared to non-fat can mean that the rotational momentum keeps the fat wheel rotating over minor obstacles that slow down non-fat bikes. But you're not going on a trail.
    The pliability is also affected by 30 TPI, 60 TPI or 120 TPI casing.
    Knobs on pavement are known for causing more deforming than one would get from a street tire.

    Seats...
    Before you spend money, you should do some research on what is currently known about bike seats. Some of what has been determined is counter intuitive. Bigger & foamier is not necessarily best, but might be.
    And some seats it's varying degrees and type of cushion (or not) on plate held by springs, others the seat is sorta like a hammock, and you have the option of a seat post suspension/shock. A Clyde friend has a $12K road bike with a seat that is carbon fibre that looks like a shoe horn, and he swears it's the most comfortable seat he's ever had. Of course he may just be trying to con me into trying to ride it...
    (I'll be trying a long Loaf seat for my cargo fat bike)
    BUT, where your weight will be transferring to the seat will be changing once you're in an upright riding posture. What you find most comfortable as a seat right now could change dramatically once you've got BMX bars positioned where you want them.

    Unless you have a clear determination of a choice, I'd suggest spending your money in steps, to reduce the likelihood of needing to spend it twice. Used bike repair co-ops are a great source of cheap stuff to try out before you buy nice, if that's needed. Thinking seats & bars.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  110. #2910
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    lol
    Here's a seat I found at the bike co-op, on my 26" 47mm trials rim.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-fat-bike-needs-fat-seat-sm.jpg

    If refurbishing a old rusted seat of questionable strength, or it's a newer seat with a thin plate, you can epoxy support stays/ribs onto its underside.

    Should put that on my friend's 12K road bike and his shoe horn on my Dolo and go to the July bike meet.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  111. #2911
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    All wise advice.

    Is there a rail rating? It seems the same diameter seat to seat. At my size no springs matter, ~400lb. Sheer strength is all I seek, along with comfort. My legs push this tiny 7 speed stock dolo with no effort at all.

    200ish (mm) rotors and bmx handlebars are next. Aside a Dick's Sporting Goods tune to repack front/back, bracket and headset.

    I really can't find, and need, a super saddle.

    Thanks!

  112. #2912
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    Quote Originally Posted by omi View Post
    All wise advice.
    Is there a rail rating? It seems the same diameter seat to seat. At my size no springs matter, ~400lb. Sheer strength is all I seek, along with comfort. My legs push this tiny 7 speed stock dolo with no effort at all.
    200ish (mm) rotors and bmx handlebars are next. Aside a Dick's Sporting Goods tune to repack front/back, bracket and headset.
    I really can't find, and need, a super saddle.
    Thanks!
    I've never heard of a rail rating. The other issue will be the strength of the seat post, particularly if it is extended.
    You may need to consider a Loaf Seat. Like a Banana Seat, only shaped more like a loaf of bread, somewhat tapered down towards the front. Google.
    The front goes on the seat post, with a pair of stays going down to the rear axle. I'm using aluminum hospital crutches for mine, but I'd use steel tube for yours. Go right to the axle, other than to the frame.
    A stock Loaf Seat would have your weight too far back on the bike. You'd need to move the seat post attachment point somewhat back on the seat.
    However, you can build your own. In your case, your height will determine distance from hip to pedals, so you can build it shorter (or match your seat length needs), the 'plate' can be plywood on a thin steel plate for load distribution of the seat post. Quality dense upholstery foam with an outdoor 'leather' cloth over it. Google Rat Rod bikes.
    If there's a place that makes seats for motorcycles near you, you should talk to them.

    If you stand up on the pedals, or use those strong legs to power/punch the pedals, you may (should expect to?) bend the stock Dolo bottom bracket spindle. So don't be surprised if that happens.
    Early on, someone found some harder spindles. However, for your use I'd suggest looking back in more recent threads for the replacement cartridge people are using. It's too short to work stock, but someone discovered that with swept crank arms (model mentioned in the posts) it is reported to clear the rear stays.

    All of the cheap bikes use freewheel, which means the freewheel hub. Those that end up bending the axle through weight or a jump reported that they sometimes got away with loosening the axle nuts and rotating the axle so the bend was then up. Maybe o.k. for a one-of event, but metal fatigue will catch up with that, quicker with a bigger bend or repeated bending. Expect to have to go with a rear freehub (that can take the weight) and a cassette. At the time you do that, get quality spokes and nipples (those are cheap).

    MAKE sure that there are no loose spokes. You don't want the wheel doing a taco (folding).
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  113. #2913
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    So it's not just taking the weight, but how the seat supports you. No telling what will work.

    Some of the old motorcycle style seats did have (normally) useless seat springs as they were too strong. May work for you.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-loaf-seat.jpg

    A loaf seat style mounting should allow you to use a variety of seat shapes supported in that manner (takes away having all of the load on the seat post). The Rat Rod mod world also has people making custom seat posts out of strong stock, should you find a suitable seat that only needs the seat post to mount.

    And there's some odd ball style seats. All sorts out there, off the shelf and custom. I am NOT suggesting one with a seat back (but who knows), but those seats were advertised with such.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-moon-seat.jpg

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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-bikes004-5.jpg
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  114. #2914
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    Quote Originally Posted by omi View Post
    ...200ish (mm) rotors...
    Will need new mounts for the brakes to fit the larger diameter rotors.
    It may be time to get one 200ish rotor and one new caliper that is capable of grabbing it well, reliably and without doing damage. In your case, if upgrading one, I'd go for the rear wheel. You will have a lot of momentum, so upgrading both front & rear is a very reasonable choice if you have the budget.

    I like the BB7, but they have to be setup correctly, which usually requires a (surprisingly specific) procedure be followed. But then I like playing with gear, which is why I bought the BB7's more expensive adjustable levers while knowing that I'd run them at full pull all the time anyway. I'll be going to TRP Spyke mechanical calipers (Spyke are the MTB ones) gripping ~200 for my cargo fat.

    Since the time I got my BB7s, there are others' favourite brakes that have been suggested more recently in this thread, including a hydroponic (really spell check?) hydraulic set or two. I have no experience with those, but if the more recent postings' brakes are as low and easy maintenance as people have posted, they're likely a better choice for your use than the BB7.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  115. #2915
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    Do take a look at this post, thread and around the Clydesdale/tall forum.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-t...l#post13664229

    https://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-ergo...ct-saddle.html

    Do remember that you'll be sitting up, so the style of seat that fits you best may be different, but I've heard tons about seat vs. bone width in recent years.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  116. #2916
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Do take a look at this post, thread and around the Clydesdale/tall forum.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-t...l#post13664229

    https://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-ergo...ct-saddle.html

    Do remember that you'll be sitting up, so the style of seat that fits you best may be different, but I've heard tons about seat vs. bone width in recent years.
    WOW!
    That link someone posted in that thread sure is great. Take a good look around that site.
    Includes increasing the seat width based on upright posture.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  117. #2917
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    Thanks a bunch for all this information consolidated! I've run into some electrical issues on my car (might need the bike more than I think oy) so I haven't had time to mess with the bike just yet. And this weekend won't be a riding weekend, like last, all rain.

    I'll have to consume all this info on my computer. That's more than enough to kill a cell battery!

    Dick's Sporting Goods is where I had my front hub repacked. It spins for days and the little old man working there gave me a ton of info. They do a full seasonal service (front/rear hub, bottom bracket (apparently the pedal axle?), brakes and all torque and calibration, for $40! Includes repacking, so less for me since I did the front already. That seems extremely cheap, but this guy knows his stuff. And he just loves working on bikes. No pits in the hub or bearings. All regreased and spins for dayyyyys on a light spin. I actually managed to get an honest craigslist buy, 100 for a dolo when no store has it and it is actually almost never used.

    Sorry for the late response. I will read it all and after I get the bike tuned I'll respond if anything interesting shows up. Overall, very happy with the stock bike (except seat, handlebars, pedals, brakes and 7 gears), but I always knew it was a strong frame and a place to start learning. For street and in low gear, I can even seat peddle on light grass slopes. But I do need more torque and less weight. More of the loss should be me than the bike

    Thanks again!

  118. #2918
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog123 View Post
    I tried the largest Cloud 9 which is 12x12: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat and I like my Nashbar SC-1 better (mine measures 8.5" wide and 11" long).

    Tires depends on the surface you are going to be riding...I have had really good luck with Maxxis. Off road I'd go with the FBF/FBR 26x4.00 with a 60 tpi casing. 60 is stronger and more puncture resistant than 120 but the ride isn't quite as plush..I take care of that with air pressure. The tread pattern is too aggressive for pavement. Anybody have a recommendation for pavement tires?

    Brakes...first upgrade your rotors front and rear to 180mm. Your stock brakes will work better just keep them adjusted. When they get to be too aggravating or you want even more...go to hydraulics. My personal preference is shimano. Here is an option: Shimano BR-M395 Disc Brake | Jenson USA Jenson is pretty helpful if you need it.
    Well I can tell you what seat NOT to get...the Selle Royal Drifter Relaxed Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...addle-sr-drift The curvature of the nose hits you in the wrong place...if you know what I mean. If you adjust the nose down enough so that it doesn't hurt then the seat is tilted so far forward you want to slide off of the front.

    I know it isn't the largest seat around but the Nashbar SC-1 Comfort Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...e-nb-sc1s-base is the most comfortable I have tried. The Cloud 9 seats "look" comfy but I had tried a couple of them including the largest one they make (which is pretty big) and the Nashbar sc-1 is a little more comfortable...not as big but a little more comfortable. Here is the Cloud 9 seat I tried: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat

  119. #2919
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    I thought I was going to ride mine around again this weekend. Almost everything was stripped off the frame last fall, and all I needed to do was put it back together with a new fork and headset. It was going well until it came time to put the handlebar back on, and oops, I forgot I had thrown the handlebar and headset away. At least this gives me an excuse for some upgrades in this area, along with new pedals. It'll probably drop about a pound, which isn't much compared to the heavy factory tubes and tires I'm still using. I'll part together a parts list when it's put together.

  120. #2920
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog123 View Post
    Well I can tell you what seat NOT to get...the Selle Royal Drifter Relaxed Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...addle-sr-drift The curvature of the nose hits you in the wrong place...if you know what I mean. If you adjust the nose down enough so that it doesn't hurt then the seat is tilted so far forward you want to slide off of the front.

    I know it isn't the largest seat around but the Nashbar SC-1 Comfort Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...e-nb-sc1s-base is the most comfortable I have tried. The Cloud 9 seats "look" comfy but I had tried a couple of them including the largest one they make (which is pretty big) and the Nashbar sc-1 is a little more comfortable...not as big but a little more comfortable. Here is the Cloud 9 seat I tried: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat
    Guys and gals, for the love of whatever you hold dear, spend some time reading the threads re saddle fit.
    Go to a shop that has an ass-o-meter and actually find out what size of saddle you should be trying to find. Within each size there are many options, more padding, less padding, gel, cutouts, suited for upright, moderate or aggressive racing positions.
    But if you intend to ride your bike further than the corner store, for any time or distance, almost no one will be well served by those 12 inch wide sponge mattresses.
    Very few people would actually need a saddle much wider than 155-160mm.
    Your weight is actually supported by your sit bones. So after anything less than a short commute all that excess padding will only serve to irritate the soft tissue surrounding the sitbones as they sink into all that excess padding trying to find something to support them.
    Sure a firmer normal saddle will take some time to adjust too, but in the long run you will be better off.

  121. #2921
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    Quote Originally Posted by MozFat View Post
    Guys and gals, for the love of whatever you hold dear, spend some time reading the threads re saddle fit.
    Go to a shop that has an ass-o-meter and actually find out what size of saddle you should be trying to find. Within each size there are many options, more padding, less padding, gel, cutouts, suited for upright, moderate or aggressive racing positions.
    But if you intend to ride your bike further than the corner store, for any time or distance, almost no one will be well served by those 12 inch wide sponge mattresses.
    Very few people would actually need a saddle much wider than 155-160mm.
    Your weight is actually supported by your sit bones. So after anything less than a short commute all that excess padding will only serve to irritate the soft tissue surrounding the sitbones as they sink into all that excess padding trying to find something to support them.
    Sure a firmer normal saddle will take some time to adjust too, but in the long run you will be better off.
    Yup!

    I guess they didn't bother checking out what was at the links provided over at the Clydesdales/tall forum.

    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Do take a look at this post, thread and around the Clydesdale/tall forum.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-t...l#post13664229

    https://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-ergo...ct-saddle.html

    Do remember that you'll be sitting up, so the style of seat that fits you best may be different, but I've heard tons about seat vs. bone width in recent years.
    Surprisingly easy to measure yourself too.
    And to adjust that measurement for riding posture.
    And to check the curve of a seat for matching that adjusted measurement.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  122. #2922
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    Is there any reason I shouldn't take apart my bottom bracket with sealed bearings and try to make it work with the YST bearings?

  123. #2923
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Is there any reason I shouldn't take apart my bottom bracket with sealed bearings and try to make it work with the YST bearings?
    What sealed bearing?

    YST with zero preload is amazing, BUT you're stuck with the original long and too soft spindle. Too many end up bent.
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  124. #2924
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    What sealed bearing?

    YST with zero preload is amazing, BUT you're stuck with the original long and too soft spindle. Too many end up bent.
    Oops, not sealed. This thing.



    I'm hoping it's the same spindle, and that I don't screw it up if it's different because I don't know if I can get another one.

  125. #2925
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Oops, not sealed. This thing.

    I'm hoping it's the same spindle, and that I don't screw it up if it's different because I don't know if I can get another one.
    Well, that would certainly screw it up. That's not a spindle, that's a cartridge bearing. Someone has already solved the issue of the original weak spindle and bearing.

    Are your crank arms straight or curved outwards?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  126. #2926
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    Seats...yes again . Found a little discussion back on page 5 where somebody else liked the Nashbar SC-1 seat. I still stand by it as my #1 for relatively upright riding comfort. Plus it isn't sooo big that it allows you to stand and ride fairly aggressively if that is something you want to do.

    Bottom bracket removal...it can be next to impossible, I speak from experience. Check out this video...I ended up making a similar tool and soakinig my threaded section with Aerokroil penetrating oil and it came apart fairly easily without an impact wrench: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9oIUmdI5JU

    Don't get in a hurry they can be tough to loosen. When I say soaked, I mean I removed the spindle and turned the bike on its side and had a plastic container with the penetrating oil in it so that the fixed cup was immersed in the oil. I let it soak for several days. Then by using the tool in the video and a crescent wrench, it came apart fairly easily.

  127. #2927
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    Okay, hands off the bottom bracket for now. I didn't consider that the shell would add stiffness, and didn't know the shaft was prone to bending. So that's nice a difference for the Costco version. Unfortunately I realized you guys had been saying the Mongoose version had 100mm rims, and the Costco only has 80mm rims.

    I'm waiting for my handlebar to be delivered today, but I'm estimating a 1.3 pound savings from swapping pedals, stem and handlebar.

  128. #2928
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    Where to buy a rear axle for the Dolomite?
    Bill

    '95 Raleigh 400, STX-RC (road, touring)
    '00 Santa Cruz Superlight, XTR (Cross Country Mtb)
    Northern N.J.

  129. #2929
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    Quote Originally Posted by INABIL View Post
    Where to buy a rear axle for the Dolomite?
    Woo boy.

    Pacific Cycles is likely the only source of the stock part.
    At one point, someone had a limited run of either rear axles or BB spindles. It's been too long for me, I forget. Search. Or maybe someone will chime in.

    If you can't get one, you can get one machined, and hopefully out of better axle material. This could cost, and you still have a freewheel hub, same quality bearings, same quality seat, flange, etc..

    If not, then it's new hub time.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-freehub-vs.-freewheel-red-bearing.jpg

    You can get a new freewheel hub, and repeat the issue of having the drive side load on bearings that are well inboard of the frame. (Red dots for bearings in diagram)
    Or you can get a freehub and a cassette, and not have the problem again, while having better quality and a lot more choice in gears on a cassette.

    p.s.
    You'd get to buy spokes & nipples too, and learn how to use a spoke calculator and how to build a wheel.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  130. #2930
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    Thanks, it's a neighbors bike and doesn't want to up grade. I used to work in a machine shop and that seams to be the expensive way (tooling).
    If I can't get stocker I'll look for a 190 mm quick release.
    Bill

    '95 Raleigh 400, STX-RC (road, touring)
    '00 Santa Cruz Superlight, XTR (Cross Country Mtb)
    Northern N.J.

  131. #2931
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    Quote Originally Posted by INABIL View Post
    ... If I can't get stocker I'll look for a 190 mm quick release.
    Make sure they understand that another stock part is just a stop gap: same soft stock part, same freewheel design.

    "Quick release" meaning a QR "freewheel hub" or a QR "freehub hub"?
    If their weight or riding style meant that they trashed one axle, then not a good ideal to get another freewheel.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  132. #2932
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    Quick Release axle.
    Bill

    '95 Raleigh 400, STX-RC (road, touring)
    '00 Santa Cruz Superlight, XTR (Cross Country Mtb)
    Northern N.J.

  133. #2933
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    Good luck finding a 190mm QR axle. You might be able to get one from a Minnesota fatbike. I think they had a 190mm QR at one time, but I don't think they offered the axle seperately, only a whole wheel. And if you try to get a new hub, the 36h hole hub will be a challenge to find in a 190mm length too. Better to get a 36h 170mm hub and bend the frame a little bit. Ultimately, I ended up getting a bikesdirect fatbike because the rear hub kept failing.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  134. #2934
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    Hello ďFATĒ guys,

    I know everyone can get a pair of hubs 135/190 with 36 holes from AliExpress for less than 50$, even LBS will rebuild our wheels using the same spokes. So basically, you could rebuild your wheels to quick release and cassette compatibility for under 150$. When I swapped my hubs to quick release and cassette compatible, my fat bike capabilities increased significantly, I know it is a bit heavy for being a steel bike, but it felt completely different after the upgrade.

    Iíve been riding my fat bike on a daily basis for over 2 years. I take sandwich deliveries to a school campus and I average 25 miles a day after I go back home from work. Iíve been riding in the cold, rain, humidity, heat and the hubs were working fine if you service it accordingly. The hubs probably have more than 30k miles on them.

    The other day I noticed that the inner part of the hub got damaged and even if I replace the outside cones and bearings the hubs wonít spin freely anymore.

    My hubs are the quando hubs 135/190 36 holes. I donít know what is the Thread Pitch of the axles but They could be used to convert to quick release with your existing freewheel hubs on your Dolomites, Malus, and Hitch or any other fat bike with 135/190 dropouts in need of quick release axles.

    PM me with an offer for a pair of hollow threaded axles 135/190 with front and rear quick release skewers.
    I'm boss and I know it

  135. #2935
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    Nm, it will be listed on eBay.
    I'm boss and I know it

  136. #2936
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    In case anyone is considering the dolomite, hitch or malus, you may want to consider the Mongoose Juneau at Amazon which has comes with some of the upgrades that are mentioned in this thread.

    The bike costs between 325 and 430 at Amazon, depending on timing. Fits in between the Dolo and the Vinson in the line up I guess.

    Drivetrain is 3x7, with a freewheel in the back
    e-type front derailleur.
    Quick release hubs front and rear.
    135 front/ 190 rear spacing.
    Sealed bottom bracket.
    80mm wheels (as opposed to 100mm on the Dolo).
    Frame, fork and most components are aluminum.
    Tires are fat b nimble knockoffs.
    Weight 35-36 pounds.

    I have one. The 35-36 weight is accurate. Like the Dolo, it should be taken apart, inspected and greased before use.

    If you can get it at the lower end of the price range, its a bargain. At the higher end, you are approaching a Bikes Direct bike. If not for the freewheel, I think it might have been comparable to a BD bike.

    https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-June.../dp/B01GZSMDFU

  137. #2937
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    Quote Originally Posted by bholio2 View Post
    In case anyone is considering the dolomite, hitch or malus, you may want to consider the Mongoose Juneau at Amazon which has comes with some of the upgrades that are mentioned in this thread.
    ...
    From April 2017
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mo...w-1043621.html

    You're already in that thread. Let that thread know if anything is different from what is posted there in 2017.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  138. #2938
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    Thanks for letting me know what other threads I have posted in.

    I mentioned the Juneau in this thread because, like the Hitch and Malus, it is a possible alternative to the Dolo for some people, depending on budget and what they are looking for.

    I'm not selling these things, I just thought it would be helpful for people to know of another option in this difficult price range for fat bikes.

    Didn't realize I was expected to ask permission before posting in 'your' thread... Sheesh!

    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    From April 2017
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mo...w-1043621.html

    You're already in that thread. Let that thread know if anything is different from what is posted there in 2017.

  139. #2939
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    Quote Originally Posted by bholio2 View Post
    Thanks for letting me know what other threads I have posted in.

    I mentioned the Juneau in this thread because, like the Hitch and Malus, it is a possible alternative to the Dolo for some people, depending on budget and what they are looking for.

    I'm not selling these things, I just thought it would be helpful for people to know of another option in this difficult price range for fat bikes.

    Didn't realize I was expected to ask permission before posting in 'your' thread... Sheesh!
    Since you didn't, I'm was letting others know where the thread on that bike is, so they can get more info on it.

    And I was suggesting that you add any info you can on that bike in that thread, so people interested in that bike don't have to go to multiple threads.

    But thanks for letting us know how you think.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  140. #2940
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    Seems like the Dolomite has moved on to a 110mm BB. I was re-gifted one of these pigs and bought the origin 8 BB. Went to install it tonight and the spindle was all wobbly. Got out a measuring tool and the width of the frame is 110. Grumblemrppphhmmmrrmmm measure twice (or once since i never looked), order once

  141. #2941
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    4,400 miles on my Dolomite changing the handlebars to "ape hangers", I ride mainly on neighborhood roads and got tired of riding bent over. Now I'll be up right for leisurely riding. Joe Greer on YouTube helped me order parts from Amazon. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bdxdppa4up8&t=2s

  142. #2942
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-bike-resized.jpg
    Finished and can ride upright. Next a new seat.

  143. #2943
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    Just about done

    A big thanks to Canoe and all who have shared their knowledge here.
    Let the judging begin...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20190203_181023.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20190203_181321.jpg  

    Last edited by Vtwinsideways; 02-03-2019 at 06:44 PM. Reason: add info

  144. #2944
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    I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!

  145. #2945
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!
    Before you do, you may want to check out the $449 with 4" on 27.5 at Costco stores. A hell of a lot more bike. I.E, Atlus, etc.. I'd take it over my Dolo any day.

    Seen in the stores in Ottawa, I don't see in on their web site Costco.ca. I didn't take the time to check on the bike, intending to check their web site, so I don't know if it's freewheel or freehub, and now I can't find out online.

    If you're a Clyde (heavy) or intend to do some serious riding, you'll break the freewheel in time and then you'll need to replace parts or upgrade to freehub.

    A friend saw them too and said it was a Giant frame, rebranded. I think he said it was aluminum.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  146. #2946
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!
    P.S.
    Last year I saw Schwinn Biggity in CT that are NOT Dolomites nor Hitches, but something different. Same build quality & components, fancier dressing. There were other more expensive fat bikes too, all in the same build quality, etc., with some extremely minor improvements: all still department store bikes. The bike at Costco with 4" on 27.5" is up at an entirely different level. What I call the beginning of a real bike, not a department store bike.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  147. #2947
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!
    Schwinn Biggity DLX, $379 (CAD) at CT.
    My god NO! That bike is not worth that.

    Get the Costo Northrock 4" on 27.5" for $449.95 (CAD).
    It's worth the trip, even if you have to drive to another town. If no one has a membership, lookup how to get a Costo Giftcard which will allow you to enter and purchase with it. Call the store first to ensure they have them in stock.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  148. #2948
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Schwinn Biggity DLX, $379 (CAD) at CT.
    My god NO! That bike is not worth that.

    Get the Costo Northrock 4" on 27.5" for $449.95 (CAD).
    It's worth the trip, even if you have to drive to another town. If no one has a membership, lookup how to get a Costo Giftcard which will allow you to enter and purchase with it. Call the store first to ensure they have them in stock.

    I agree, however I see Biggity's for $150 - $200 on classifieds often as people ride them once and realize they don't like cold or they are in no shape to ride and enjoy riding a 50lb bike.
    2018 RSD Middlechild
    2016 Norco Sasquatch 6.1
    2010 Giant STP SS

  149. #2949
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    I agree, however I see Biggity's for $150 - $200 on classifieds often as people ride them once and realize they don't like cold or they are in no shape to ride and enjoy riding a 50lb bike.
    Good point, but...
    ... did the original owner know to clear, clean and repack the bearings in the front, rear & bottom bracket, or did they ride it as-in from the store and trash the bearings/seats. Did they bend the freewheel or the long vulnerable BB spindle. Did they check the spoke tension or did they damage the rim (spokes, hub(s)).

    If you're getting a second hand "department store" level bike, you have to know to, and how to, check for those issues and any others that department store bikes are known to have, and/or be prepared to spend the time and/or $ to fix or upgrade them. Suddenly your $150 bike is:
    • a piece of trash you want to sell off, or
    • worse, you put $100 or $200 into it before you decided to sell the problem to someone else, or
    • you suddenly have $350 or $450 into the bike, only it's still a $200 bike for which the factory got paid $30 to $40.


    I love my Dolo.
    But you have to be prepared to either service, repair or upgrade some things yourself, or pay more $ for someone to do it for you. If you have the know how, or are willing to learn, and have parts or a bike co-op nearby, or have $ for parts, you can get it done cheaply or frugally - your choice - (and possibly have a lot of fun - I do). Else it can quickly cost you more than a reasonably good bike, used or new, would have cost you if you'd known how much you'd end up putting into it.

    Else you're going to end up throwing it in the recyle/trash sooner or later, or selling/giving the problem to someone else.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  150. #2950
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    Alright, just keep 3 things in mind, guys

    1. I can't afford anything more. I'm on a tight budget, I made all of my money shoveling snow, and I'm only 13, turning 14 next year.

    2. I know about the issues I might face along with maintenance, and I accepted that a long time ago.

    Can you guys give any advice for when I do get it? Here in windsor, ontario there is unfortunely no other way I can get a fat bike other than getting the schwinn, so I have no other option

  151. #2951
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Good point, but...
    ... did the original owner know to clear, clean and repack the bearings in the front, rear & bottom bracket, or did they ride it as-in from the store and trash the bearings/seats. Did they bend the freewheel or the long vulnerable BB spindle. Did they check the spoke tension or did they damage the rim (spokes, hub(s)).

    If you're getting a second hand "department store" level bike, you have to know to, and how to, check for those issues and any others that department store bikes are known to have, and/or be prepared to spend the time and/or $ to fix or upgrade them. Suddenly your $150 bike is:
    • a piece of trash you want to sell off, or
    • worse, you put $100 or $200 into it before you decided to sell the problem to someone else, or
    • you suddenly have $350 or $450 into the bike, only it's still a $200 bike for which the factory got paid $30 to $40.


    I love my Dolo.
    But you have to be prepared to either service, repair or upgrade some things yourself, or pay more $ for someone to do it for you. If you have the know how, or are willing to learn, and have parts or a bike co-op nearby, or have $ for parts, you can get it done cheaply or frugally - your choice - (and possibly have a lot of fun - I do). Else it can quickly cost you more than a reasonably good bike, used or new, would have cost you if you'd known how much you'd end up putting into it.

    Else you're going to end up throwing it in the recyle/trash sooner or later, or selling/giving the problem to someone else.
    This is extremely good advice

  152. #2952
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    Alright, just keep 3 things in mind, guys

    1. I can't afford anything more. I'm on a tight budget, I made all of my money shoveling snow, and I'm only 13, turning 14 next year.

    2. I know about the issues I might face along with maintenance, and I accepted that a long time ago.

    Can you guys give any advice for when I do get it? Here in windsor, ontario there is unfortunely no other way I can get a fat bike other than getting the schwinn, so I have no other option
    Shoveling snow for a fat bike at 13 is the raddest thing I've ever heard on here Wish more guys your age had this attitude. Have fun on the new bike! But dont buy a money pit

  153. #2953
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    Alright, just keep 3 things in mind, guys

    1. I can't afford anything more. I'm on a tight budget, I made all of my money shoveling snow, and I'm only 13, turning 14 next year.

    2. I know about the issues I might face along with maintenance, and I accepted that a long time ago.

    Can you guys give any advice for when I do get it? Here in windsor, ontario there is unfortunely no other way I can get a fat bike other than getting the schwinn, so I have no other option
    O.k.
    Tight budget it is.
    So you need to be very frugal.

    Are you able to buy new, or are you buying used?
    If used, then you need to learn how to make sure you're not buying someone else's money pit.

    How much you need to address will also depend on: your weight, and how you intend to ride. As in, will you be cruising along, or are there places there where you can hammer it. Jumps are NOT a good idea, due to the long/weak bottom bracket spindle, and that it's a freewheel with a soft & vulnerable axle (look up the page or the page back for the images showing what/why).

    You'll need to check the bearings of: front hub, rear hub, bottom bracket. If the axles, seats or bb spindle are damaged, you're into some $ to fix this. Which is why they're an issue used, or if you ride it before cleaning them out and repacking before the bike's very first ride. You're also hoping the guys int he store didn't ride it around the store or out back. If new, if possible, get one in its box, so you know it hasn't been messed with.

    A cartridge bottom bracket is nice due to sealing for longevity, but the YST bearing is ~$10 and is super smooth if set to the correct torque.

    All you need to know - apart if exact parts to fit (which has to be measured to check your bike for model changes or different parts used) - is in this thread. Unfortunately, the forum paging changed, so the refernce links are all wrong; but, look at the first page of posts for some of the things to consider.

    Can you tell us how many dollars you have to work with? For bike, grease, parts, etc..
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  154. #2954
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    O.k.
    Tight budget it is.
    So you need to be very frugal.

    Are you able to buy new, or are you buying used?
    If used, then you need to learn how to make sure you're not buying someone else's money pit.

    How much you need to address will also depend on: your weight, and how you intend to ride. As in, will you be cruising along, or are there places there where you can hammer it. Jumps are NOT a good idea, due to the long/weak bottom bracket spindle, and that it's a freewheel with a soft & vulnerable axle (look up the page or the page back for the images showing what/why).

    You'll need to check the bearings of: front hub, rear hub, bottom bracket. If the axles, seats or bb spindle are damaged, you're into some $ to fix this. Which is why they're an issue used, or if you ride it before cleaning them out and repacking before the bike's very first ride. You're also hoping the guys int he store didn't ride it around the store or out back. If new, if possible, get one in its box, so you know it hasn't been messed with.

    A cartridge bottom bracket is nice due to sealing for longevity, but the YST bearing is ~$10 and is super smooth if set to the correct torque.

    All you need to know - apart if exact parts to fit (which has to be measured to check your bike for model changes or different parts used) - is in this thread. Unfortunately, the forum paging changed, so the refernce links are all wrong; but, look at the first page of posts for some of the things to consider.

    Can you tell us how many dollars you have to work with? For bike, grease, parts, etc..
    Alright, for one I'm buying it new
    Second, for now i'll have the money to buy the bike, and over time I'll save up more money to make sure if anything goes wrong I'll be prepared

    One upgrade I intend to make eventually on it will be handlebars. I weigh 170, and I plan to ride it as a 3 in one, a cruiser, mountain bike, and a get-around-town bike.

    If you've got any other advice or pictures of your dolos to share with me, go ahead! I will obviously set aside some dollars for grease and everything, but for now I need to plan.

  155. #2955
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    ... Here in windsor, ontario there is unfortunely no other way I can get a fat bike other than getting the schwinn, so I have no other option
    I got my Dolo from Walmart.com, delivered to the store in Ogdensburg, NY. I drove an hour down to pick it up and bring it back across the border. Shipping to the store was free. I paid HST at the border. Plus USD into CAD.
    If you know someone with a car and passport who can cross over to Detroit for you, you should be able to have them go pickup something you order. Depending on the sources, it's easier if someone with a credit card pays and you pay them.

    i.e., the current Dolo from Walmart
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Mongoo...Black/55456516
    $269 USD / $354 CAD
    or
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Limited-E...lack/520043916
    $219 USD / $289 CAD

    Watch for sales.

    That Costco Northrock $445 CAD 27.5 is often $300 USD, for $395 CAD.

    Things can also be shipped to a UPS store in Detroit for pickup. The fee for that services is usually $5 USD. Of course, the shipping charges from whomever shipped it.

    Is there a bike co-op there where you can pick through used parts, use their tools, and they usually have some nights/weekends where there's a bike mechanic guiding people working on their own bikes.

    Also, don't be shy to ask here if someone has a spare part you can use. Easier for someone in Canada to send if they have a spare part to gift you or sell cheap. Also, I have a bike co-op I can get parts at cheap, say a different freewheel gears more useful for fat bikes than the stock gearing usually is.

    Don't post your email, phone, address, etc.. in a post. Do anything like that in PM, and carefully.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  156. #2956
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    ... All you need to know - apart if exact parts to fit (which has to be measured to check your bike for model changes or different parts used) - is in this thread. Unfortunately, the forum paging changed, so the refernce links are all wrong; but, look at the first page of posts for some of the things to consider.
    ...
    The first first post of this thread was updated to point out Recommended Upgrades, Popular Upgrades, and Also Done.
    The links are broken - search.

    p.s.
    Site search sucks. Use google to search mtbr.com.


    p.s.s
    Look at all the fat bikes at CT. Especially if there's a 27.5" rim instead of 26" - rubber just behaves better on them (less self stear).
    Talk to the department manager at CT and explain that you've been saving your snow shoveling money and ask if that bike will be going on sale. One never knows unless one asks.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  157. #2957
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    The first first post of this thread was updated to point out Recommended Upgrades, Popular Upgrades, and Also Done.
    The links are broken - search.

    p.s.
    Site search sucks. Use google to search mtbr.com.


    p.s.s
    Look at all the fat bikes at CT. Especially if there's a 27.5" rim instead of 26" - rubber just behaves better on them (less self stear).
    Talk to the department manager at CT and explain that you've been saving your snow shoveling money and ask if that bike will be going on sale. One never knows unless one asks.
    It is from Canadian tire! Its got extremely good reviews on it, so when I get the oportunity in about march or april i'll let you guys in on it.

  158. #2958
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    ... If you've got any other advice or pictures of your dolos to share with me, go ahead! I will obviously set aside some dollars for grease and everything, but for now I need to plan.
    You've got this huge thread to browse/search.
    Goto the first page and use the references there that pull your interest and search (for where they're located now...).

    Crappy Tire has the grease. Before you ride it ever, you want to clear out and repack the bearings. You be filling their entire space so there's no room for water with salt to get in. You need the tools for the bearings. Same for getting YST bearings for the bottom bracket spindle.
    Permatex Ultra Slick Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...l#post11662503

    You'll be getting a can of Fluid Film (FF)($15 at crappy tire), to spray a shot inside the frame wherever you can to prevent rust. You will also be using it on your chain, after you wipe as much oil/grease off of the chain as possible. And on the gears. And possible a shot down the brake cables (if mechanical, which it highly likely is) and the shifting cables. Or pull the cables out and give them a wipe down with the FF. Wipe down the spokes & frame well, so it gets in any nooks and cranies.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/an...t-1073581.html


    If you find a different bike on sale, take photos of the whole bike, the closeup of gears, brakes, etc., and post and ask "what is it?"
    Crappy Tire has a half dozen fat models going in/out of stock in the store here in Ottawa.

    Once you have a bike, post it's components and we can see what should be upgraded, or what can wait or what is fine. Some of the newer fat bikes have usable rubber, compared to the original Dolo rubber.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  159. #2959
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    So you've got time to watch for sales.

    And you'll be buying at the end of the "fat bike" season as far as most people consider fat bikes. So the CT dept manager may be interested in clearing them out. I don't know how much discretion they have.

    FF goes on sale for $10 a can from time to time. One can is enough for ages.

    Maybe you can ask clients if they've got any old CT money they don't want.

    The YST BSA "sealed" (it has a rubber seal) bearing & cup
    Don't get it with a spindle.
    BSA ~= English threading BSA means they're the "English" size. # CR5042 BB-611NW
    Should be ~$6 USD. Plus shipping, etc.. Can take time to get in, and can be shipped cheap from States by U.S. Postal Service (USPS).
    NEVER SHIP ANYTHING FROM THE STATES TO CANADA BY UPS.
    Or your LBS (local bike shop) should be able to get one in for you. Expect $10 to $20 CAD. Search this thread to get the part number and what the box looks like. Confirm with the seller that they're selling the same part.

    Watch out for jerks like this one, for this $6 YST bearing for $101 CAD.
    https://www.amazon.ca/YST-Sealed-Bea.../dp/B001CK0ETE

    $8.99 USD ebay.ca (~11.80 CAD, shipping ~$14 CAD)
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-YST-MTB-...e/362257042610

    Quite often you can find a real store behind the ebay or amazon ads, and buy directly for less.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  160. #2960
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    Lots of fuh fun - NOT!
    The forum search returns page based links that don't work...

    But, I belive I've figured out the change in forum links from page based to post based addressing. So I'm updating the info links within the forum that appear on the early posts on page one of this thread.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  161. #2961
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!
    I was going back through posts. Apparently the Schwinn Biggity DLX is a Malus.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...l#post13409610
    So there will be differences, yet same same.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  162. #2962
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    I was going back through posts. Apparently the Schwinn Biggity DLX is a Malus.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...l#post13409610
    So there will be differences, yet same same.
    If you wanna see it for yourself, here it is. The new model is black, although I might peel off the labels if I find them to look weird.

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/s...-0711653p.html

    I usually lurk through here to get ideas on tips and how I can customize my own bike in the future, as I've been waiting to get this for almost 2 years. Shovelling snow, I've made the money, but I'm going to wait til march since i'm about 100 dollars short.

    I usually follow tips from this guy, he posts great tips and has all the videos I might need. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHH...g4AsBkDzdr2Djg

    As promised, I will post it when I get it! Thank you all for the tips.

  163. #2963
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    ... Get the Costo Northrock 4" on 27.5" for $449.95 (CAD)...
    Anyone considering the Northrock 4" fat, be aware there are two versions:
    • one is 26" rims & tires,
    • the other is 27.5" rims and tires.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fa...l#post13976832
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  164. #2964
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    Does anyone know where i can get a suspension fork (spring or air) for my mongoose dolomite UNDER $100?
    OrigamiFisherman

  165. #2965
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    Is there a place to buy the front and rear axle nuts besides calling Mongoose cust service? Thanks,
    Felkers

  166. #2966
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    Axle nuts...available from multiple locations but I like the Problem Solvers pictured below and available from: https://www.wheelandsprocket.com/pro...t-182061-1.htm




    Suspension Forks...going to be tough to get a decent fork for $100 but the Suntour XCR coil fork might come close. I have several and they work pretty good. If you can spend a little more the Suntour Raidon Air fork is nice...buy the new 32mm air cap with five volume spacers, it will allow you to tune the fork to your exact needs.

  167. #2967
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    They show three sizes, so is ith the 3/8 size? Fit for both front and rear? thanks for the advice!!!
    Felkers

    Part Numbers
    Option UPC MPN Store SKU
    10 x 1mm 708752026506 HU7100
    3/8 x 26 tpi 708752037267 HU7101
    9 x 1mm 708752037274 HU7102 PRO26696892T

  168. #2968
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felkers View Post
    They show three sizes, so is ith the 3/8 size? Fit for both front and rear? thanks for the advice!!!
    Felkers

    Part Numbers
    Option UPC MPN Store SKU
    10 x 1mm 708752026506 HU7100
    3/8 x 26 tpi 708752037267 HU7101
    9 x 1mm 708752037274 HU7102 PRO26696892T
    Definitely not 10mm.

    I am pretty sure the 9mm ones are what you want for both the front and the rear..definitely maybe. It has been a long time since I ordered them so I am going on memory.

    Anybody else know for sure?

  169. #2969
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    Anyone know the difference between Mongoose Dolomite and the Mongoose Hitch and Mongoose Malus? Thinking of getting a new bike and I can find the same price for all three of these. I have a three-year old Dolomite now.


    Thanks,
    Felkers

  170. #2970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felkers View Post
    Anyone know the difference between Mongoose Dolomite and the Mongoose Hitch and Mongoose Malus? Thinking of getting a new bike and I can find the same price for all three of these. I have a three-year old Dolomite now.


    Thanks,
    Felkers
    The difference is color...pick the one you think looks the best .

    Has anybody else found any difference besides color?

    Actually it is color and the Hitch has rims that have the big holes in them to make them lighter. The Malus and the Dolomite have solid rims.

    Earlier versions of the Dolomite had a different frame spacing at the front of the rear tire...I believe they are all the same now.

  171. #2971
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    More info on ordering parts from Pacific Cycle

    I got a reply from Pacific Cycle and they have the axle nuts for $1.25 each. Darn cheap! I'm going to get a bunch of maintenance parts while I'm at it - maybe bottom bracket parts, cassette etc.

    UPDATE:

    ordered lots of spare parts from Pacific Cycle. Very cheap prices. Got all the bottom bracket assy parts and a bunch of other stuff for about $75.00 shipped. Only thing I didn't like was their 26 x 4 Inner tube price ($22.25 each) These are way cheaper on Amazon (about $13.00)

    Pacific Cycle is at: 800-626-2811 Monday-Friday 8am-5pm CST and you need the model info from the sticker on the bike.
    Looks like this:
    Item R4144
    Manuf date: FSD0715AG
    Last edited by Felkers; 06-05-2019 at 12:32 PM. Reason: additional info found

  172. #2972
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    I ride the heck out of a Dolomite - I wanted a big, heavy and stable bike for workout sessions! I actually have added weights on it. They are so cheap I can just get a new one if my old one breaks down! I am trying to keep my old one going though. Really enjoy the bike.

  173. #2973
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    This is my dolomite...i think. It was spray painted green and pink when i bought it and was told it was a schwinn biggity originally. Frame seems to look the same. I painted it (I'm an auto painter by trade), the frame is a honda blue and the rims are a custom high metallic and pearl that look very nice especially when the sun hits them. I built it up with a wide easton carbon bar, tektro novella brakes ($30 off kijiji), easton grips and some cheaper parts i had lying around the house. It looks like i may be getting a set of specialized ground control tires for $150 canadian which seems like a great deal. The chaoyang tires that came on it are quite worn.

    as it sits now, i spent $180 CDN and it works great. that's including two innertubes.

    my goal now is to just get it lighter over time as i need to replace stuff.

    Have many people run a 4.6 tire? i couldn't find any info in this thread specifically regarding the ground controls. Tires in canada seem so much more expensive than what i see people paying in the states.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20190602_135620_2.jpg

  174. #2974
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felkers View Post
    I ride the heck out of a Dolomite - I wanted a big, heavy and stable bike for workout sessions! I actually have added weights on it. They are so cheap I can just get a new one if my old one breaks down! I am trying to keep my old one going though. Really enjoy the bike.
    Me too 15 more miles and I'll have 5,000 miles in 3 years of riding, some days it's very tough to pedal when the wind is blowing.

  175. #2975
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    Finally got the biggity today. So many opportunities can come out of this. What do you guys think? Everything seems to be greased.

    Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

  176. #2976
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    Tires....I ran a Maxxis FBR 26x4.80 on the rear of my Mongoose Hitch for a little while, not sure the Dolomite has the exact same frame spacing so be careful before you spend the money on a new tire. The 4.80 FBR was massive...actually too big for me. I went to a Maxxis 26x4.00 FBR and it works nicely.

    Forks...you can get a Suntour XCR spring fork for not much over $100 if you shop around and the XCR air fork is a few dollars more BUT the biggest tire that will fit in it is a 27.5x2.80. I bought a front wheel for a Mongoose Terrex from Pacific Cycles...about $25 plus shipping and installed it along with the XCR spring fork. Works pretty good for me and the suspension fork really softens the ride compared to the rigid fork that came on the bike. The 27.5x2.8 front wheel/tire steers a lot easier than the fat tire but does not have the flotation that a fat tire has if you ride sand/snow.

  177. #2977
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    Anyone try putting pedal extenders on one of the Mongoose fat bikes. I'm a little worried how the crank arms will hold up to that stress.....thanks Felkers.

  178. #2978
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    You on the same tires all 5,000 or did you get new tires? What did you get if you got new ones?

    Thanks,
    Felkers

  179. #2979
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowymountains24 View Post
    ... Everything seems to be greased.
    oops
    I missed this.

    Many people report their Mongoose/Pacific/department-store bike arrives greased, but they find small (or large) metal particles in the grease. Which is why the recomendation remains to take every thing with a bearing or bushing apart, remove the grease, clean the surfaces, regrease and reassemble, so riding it doesn't trash the bearings or seats, etc.. Also this should be done before the bike is ever riden. Which is why you want one still in the box from the back and not the one they put together and rode around the back of the store before putting it out front...

    So if you didn't do that, or if one is buying used, it's recomended to do that asap.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  180. #2980
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felkers View Post
    Anyone try putting pedal extenders on one of the Mongoose fat bikes. I'm a little worried how the crank arms will hold up to that stress.....thanks Felkers.
    If it's the stock arms, it is a $40 bike (that's around what the factory gets).

    If you're using non-stock quality crank arms, and aren't worried about an even wider Q-factor...
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  181. #2981
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    I think I'm good on the pedal extenders. I've been using them for about a month with no issues at all. The only extend the pedals out by 20 mm but it makes a big difference for me and keeps my knees away from the bike frame. Only about $15.00 for the extenders and well worth it!
    Thanks,
    Felkers

  182. #2982
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    Newbie here, I picked up a used Dolo cheap. The brakes are gone except for the rotor. Lever calipers everything. I have been reading the forum off and on for several days now. Y'all seem like good folks. I am 5'8" 225lb. I understand the stock brakes are crap. I need to get a new set up for the front and the rear. Rather than buy individual components, is it possible to find and a complete set r.e. levers, cables, calipers and rotors in one kit? from one manufacturer so it all works together? Want to set the Dolo up for street cruising and park riding. Asphalt, concrete, and packed dirt, some gravel and sand but no mountian down hills, to old for that. Thanks in advance.

  183. #2983
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    Sure EBay has a lot of options with complete set ups. Search around because you can find them cheaper than the link I am giving you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Deo...72.m2749.l2649

    With Shimano brakes the higher the first digit the better they are...i.e. 6000 is better than the 5000 series. This is a good opportunity to set up the levers on the sides you like as well i.e. I like my front brake on the right just like a motorcycle. Most US bikes have the front brake on the left. Definitely go hydraulic...the ONLY mechanical disc I would consider is the SRAM BB7 but for less money you can go hydraulic and have better brakes. The 6000 series Shimano is nice, the 5000 are pretty good, hit or miss with the 3000 series...some I have had work well, some not so good.

  184. #2984
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    I recommend the BB7, as they work great, but they're a pain to adjust and keep re-adjusting as the pads wear. And I have mods to take play out of the line for better modulation. Hmmm. Why do I keep recommending them...

    I can't recommend hydraulic, as I've never gone that route. And I like being able to repair most things about my brakes if something should ever happen out on the trail (but that's not your use). But I hear that most hydraulic don't have the issues I have with my BB7. If I had the bucks, I'd go for the mechanical TRP Spyke calipers, for super easy setup and great grip. But they're hard to find as more people go hydraulic - there must be a reason for that.

    Due to the weight/inertia of the spinning fat wheels, I would recommend getting MTB brakes, not road brakes. Whatever you do don't mix MTB & road brake components.

    If you had parts available from a bike co-op, that would be a way to save some bucks. But if you can afford new, remember that bad brakes could cost you your life.
    Note that often last years model of brake components or sets can be found at huge discounts. Often the only change in product is colour or the box they come in.
    And my fat LBS often has stuff in their basement, old stock or new ordered-in but not picked up, for less than online prices, and often their regular stock prices are same or less than online, with no shipping wait nor cost.

    p.s.
    As you're new to a Dolo, and hence probably to fat bikes, upgraded tires over Dolo stock tires, even cheap fat bike tires, can make a huge improvement in ride and enjoyment. Same for lighter tubes. Same for a lot of things. Check the first page for a lot of popular things people have done.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  185. #2985
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    Just a quick question on my Dolo. Is there any place where there is a parts list or part diagram with part descriptions, specs, and part numbers. A service manual? I saw canoes list for part weights. I bet most of that info is in this forum somewhere. I just got a beat to shit dolo with a good frame, wheels, and tires. I feel like I am lost in the dark and relying on you kind folks to provide me with the info I could get from a simple 1 or 2 page document or spend hours looking for this forum for each part i need. I love this forum and am learning for it all the time, but frankly the search sucks. So I want to find a list, manual, diagram of the stock parts with part numbers or dimensions used on a stock dolo. This bike is going to need a lot of new components but without a guide is just feel lost. Yes I can measure everything with calipers and I will but I dont know what is stock on the DOB. Help!

  186. #2986
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg 1966 View Post
    ... Is there any place where there is a parts list or part diagram with part descriptions, specs, and part numbers. A service manual? ... So I want to find a list, manual, diagram of the stock parts with part numbers or dimensions used on a stock dolo. This bike is going to need a lot of new components but without a guide is just feel lost. Yes I can measure everything with calipers and I will but I dont know what is stock on the DOB. Help!
    Not that I've ever seen.
    If the bottom bracket or spindle is toast, I'd suggest you get the cartridge & swept crank arms that is documented more towards the end of this thread.
    The site's internal search is often useless. Use google to search the site.forum.

    But, you may be near or dead in the water, if the hubs are trashed: bearings, seats, axle. You need to find replacements with 36 spokes. Or order Dolo hubs from Pacific Cycles. Which means you'd have the rear freewheel hubs that have a soft axle and are prone to bending (if you're a clyde, like to punch the cranks, or like jumps, or sometimes, it just happens). At 225 lbs., I'd guess that at some point you can expect to replace any new stock hubs you buy due to a bent axle.

    So address the hubs first. Before you spend any money. If you can't solve that for reasonable dollars, ...
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  187. #2987
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    Definitely a hassle to go tubeless with the stock wheels and tires but it is possible. Probably not the 'right' way of doing it but my aim was to simply get rid of my tubes to simplify and mitigate risks on my rides. Also, tubes cost a lot, are heavy, and I got two tube flats.

    The things I used beyond what one would normally use to go tubeless are:
    compressor
    super glue
    window seal / weatherstrip - to help the tire keep it's form and seat the 'bead'


    Here is the method I used:
    • remove wheel, tire, and tube
    • remove and cut down existing rim strip closer to each spoke (bout a half inch on each side) - this doesn't have to be exact, I just tried to make sure each spoke was covered by the strip
    • clean wheel and strip thoroughly and let dry
    • super glue the line where the wheel meets, inside and out and let cure
    • replace rim strip and align the valve hole with the wheel valve hole
    • using gorilla tape - I used the widest rolls I could find - tape the entire circumference of the barrel where the rim strip sits. I did one pass on the left, one on the right, and one in the middle for each wheel and I did not tape any of the bead seat or wheel lip
    • poke the valve hole in the tape
    • I then ran a few more tape strips around the area of the valve hole (left, right, center - about 12" each) to raise that area up - the valve hole is much bigger than a presta valve which is what I used for my tubeless setup. I think I used at least 1 1/2 rolls of tape total
    • find some rubber window seal / weatherstrip (not the foam looking stuff) and run strips on either side of the barrel as close to the bead seat as possible
    • it may help to super glue the weatherstrip in place and wait for it to cure just to be sure it won't unstick (this happened once while I in the process and I had to reapply the weatherstrip). If you choose not to super glue (that's a lot of glue) just press it down well and let it sit for a day
    • I now replaced the tubes and tires and aired them up to 30psi and rode them like that for a few days in the hopes they would seat easier when I removed the tubes
    • carefully remove the tube from one side of the wheel, insert a presta valve (core removed) and remount the tire
    • soap it up real well with soapy water and give a blast of air from a compressor
    • if it seats and holds air, let it air down and pour about 4oz of sealant in it (I used the syringe method so I didn't have to mess with the tire) and give it another blast of compressed air
    • if it doesn't seat, lather the bead and sidewall with more soapy water and try again...
    • once the tire seats and holds air insert the valve core, shake/roll it around and air up to 15-20psi
    • get the wheel back on the bike and ride it around for a bit then leave it to check the pressure in the morning.


    What a hassle... but worth it. I run my tires around 10-12 psi right now and I've found that they do not leak in an amount that my floor pump can measure

  188. #2988
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    Wow!

    Congrats!

    Size of that rubber window-seal/weather-strip?

    I hope you have photos of that setup before the tire got put back on...
    I'd love to see them.

    Two cautions:
    • Gorilla Tape - very variable results with that product.
      - Can't figure out if it's old stock, heat-damaged stock, counterfeit product or just a wide QA acceptance that leads to its adhesive letting go.
      - Check the tubeless tape thread for a better choice if your rolls fail over time in heat or contact with the sealant.
    • Super Glue - known to be brittle and fail with vibration/stress.
      - I used JBWeld to seal my rim seams, which seems good, but I'm thinking perhaps the rubber-roughened super glue is a better choice.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  189. #2989
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    I thought about buying tape made specifically for tubeless setups but I already had the gorilla tape as well as super glue in the garage so I gave those a try on my front wheel. Thanks for the suggestions, if my setup goes south I'll consider these options after I tear down to investigate the point of failure.

    I think I ended up buying weatherstrip that was 1/4" x 5/16" but I would suggest buying a weatherstrip that is as tall as possible if going this route. Also, in my picture I feel I could have saved myself some trouble by placing the weatherstrip even closer to the flange/bead seat. The idea of holding the bead close to the seat does help with this size wheel and tire combination though.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img-4415.jpgThe Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img-4409.jpg

  190. #2990
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    Also, just an aside, this is an example of the weatherstrip not to use:
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img-4396-1.jpg

    It's more like a foam and it absorbs any sealant (or other liquids) in the tire and effectively prevents it from doing its job. So if anyone attempts this, learn from my mistakes and use the tallest and densest weatherstrip you can find.

  191. #2991
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    Quote Originally Posted by usuallypanda View Post
    ... I think I ended up buying weatherstrip that was 1/4" x 5/16" but I would suggest buying a weatherstrip that is as tall as possible if going this route. Also, in my picture I feel I could have saved myself some trouble by placing the weatherstrip even closer to the flange/bead seat. The idea of holding the bead close to the seat does help with this size wheel and tire combination though.
    Thanks for those photos. Now I understand what you meant by rubber weatherstrip.

    I've even looked into making a bead seat.
    - Aluminum tube epoxied into place similar to your weatherstrip, and
    - then an epoxy/micro-bead slurry to fill between the tube and the rim to make a seat/shelf for the bead; alternately, a bonding silicone caulk.

    I went as far as getting the aluminum tube, but then discovered that the hardware stores no longer carry the 24-hour-cure epoxies, just 3 to 5 minutes cure products, which will release under heat...
    The rubber-toughened super glue may work for that, but I'd prefer an appropriate epoxy due to the rim's thermal cycling and resulting expansion/contraction.

    Another option I was considering is structural spray foam to fill the whole space across between the opposing bead seats, then trim it down by the seats to make a channel, with the channel & flat skim coated with an expoxy/micro-bead slurry to toughen and seal the foam surface.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  192. #2992
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    Quote Originally Posted by usuallypanda View Post
    Also, just an aside, this is an example of the weatherstrip not to use:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's more like a foam and it absorbs any sealant (or other liquids) in the tire and effectively prevents it from doing its job. So if anyone attempts this, learn from my mistakes and use the tallest and densest weatherstrip you can find.
    Others have tried that type of foam, or even pool-noodles, with a sealing layer of tape/wrap over top, but found that it compresses over time and doesn't do the job they'd expected.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  193. #2993
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Thanks for those photos. Now I understand what you meant by rubber weatherstrip.

    I've even looked into making a bead seat.
    - Aluminum tube epoxied into place similar to your weatherstrip, and
    - then an epoxy/micro-bead slurry to fill between the tube and the rim to make a seat/shelf for the bead; alternately, a bonding silicone caulk.

    I went as far as getting the aluminum tube, but then discovered that the hardware stores no longer carry the 24-hour-cure epoxies, just 3 to 5 minutes cure products, which will release under heat...
    The rubber-toughened super glue may work for that, but I'd prefer an appropriate epoxy due to the rim's thermal cycling and resulting expansion/contraction.

    Another option I was considering is structural spray foam to fill the whole space across between the opposing bead seats, then trim it down by the seats to make a channel, with the channel & flat skim coated with an expoxy/micro-bead slurry to toughen and seal the foam surface.
    Your aluminum tubing idea sounds interesting. I doubt I would have thought of that. I briefly thought about using spray foam since I have a couple cans laying around but decided it would be a little messy and I didn't want to do any foam sculpting at the time. I honestly hadn't thought about the sealant being absorbed by the materials I was working with so that threw me for a loop when my rear wheel failed to seal properly.

    I also briefly thought about what it would take to engineer beadlocks into the wheels but after taking a few measurements I dismissed the idea (not to mention the added weight and crazy cost for materials). The 100mm wheel is sort of an oddball and I can imagine how easy it would be to go tubeless with a narrower wheel but tinkering is fun so I can't complain.

  194. #2994
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    On the 50 mm rim, I just throw a 20" tube on it and that inflates and pushes the beads onto the seats. Needs a second valve & hole to get air into the tire (maybe there'd be enough for winter float if I used a 26" MTB tube that also expanded outwards more... haven't tried).

    I thought about trying that with the 100 mm rim and three or four 20" tubes, but didn't.

    The aluminum tube could even be deformed some to fit closer to the seat; it won't be taking any meaningful load.

    It could even be cut in half down it's length, and glued in curve inwards, then using a piece of wood one could bend the raised end towards the seat, then fill between it and the rim to make a ledge for the bead to sit on.

    Anyone wanting to bond such aluminum, remember a light sand to remove the aluminum-oxide before you bond. Wet sand with acetone works well.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-tubless-rim-conversion.jpg
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  195. #2995
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    ... It could even be cut in half down it's length, and glued in curve inwards, then using a piece of wood one could bend the raised end towards the seat, then fill between it and the rim to make a ledge for the bead to sit on.
    Or with the right size, just squish the tube to better fit.

    Cut in half (and debur & sand), to minimize material use/cost.

    Name:  tubless conversion squished Al tube (and maybe cut).jpg
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  196. #2996
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    Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?

  197. #2997
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg 1966 View Post
    Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?
    Do you have the right size and the right number of bearings?
    Is the seat trashed?
    From my answer to you above...
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    ... But, you may be near or dead in the water, if the hubs are trashed: bearings, seats, axle. You need to find replacements with 36 spokes. Or order Dolo hubs from Pacific Cycles. Which means you'd have the rear freewheel hubs that have a soft axle and are prone to bending (if you're a clyde, like to punch the cranks, or like jumps, or sometimes, it just happens). At 225 lbs., I'd guess that at some point you can expect to replace any new stock hubs you buy due to a bent axle.

    So address the hubs first. Before you spend any money. If you can't solve that for reasonable dollars, ...
    I don't recall ever seeing anyone post the bearing count nor size.
    I'd take the whole wheel in to the LBS to get bearings. If you have it nice and grease free, they'll see the bearing seat and likely tell you if it's shot. New hub time.

    If the rear is fine, you might be able to get the front running by replacing its bearings. It might be more economical to order a new front hub from Pacific, so you know the hub should be good. But you have to know how to build a wheel (and tighten and stress it properly) (or pay someone). If you're a gentle rider, you're likely to get reasonable life out of a stock front hub.

    At your weight, I would NOT recommend a stock hub for the rear, as it is most likely inevitable that the rear stock axle will bend... If there's an issue with the rear, you're looking at finding a workable replacement hub, or more likely the smarter move is a new rear wheel with easier to obtain parts. And then, stick with freewheel or go to freehub & cassette?
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...l#post13600347
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  198. #2998
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg 1966 View Post
    Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?
    In my infinite wisdom I forgot to measure the bearings when I had the wheels off but I did count them.
    I counted 9 bearings in the back and 8 in the front (on each side, so per hub 18 and 16 respectively), though it looked like the front should have had 9 as well. I should be able to get bearing measurements when I take the wheels off this weekend. If you beat me to it, post it up.

    Maybe Canoe will update the informational thread with this new data

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