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  1. #1
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    Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet

    Just recently got my hands on a undrilled Rolling Darryl..knew he had some weight to shed. Made a jig for my drill press, and went to work. I drilled 30 1.5 inch holes that equated to 200+ grams of material. The final weight was 749 grams which I was pumped with. Thats over 100 grams lighter that stock Darryl with holes. There is plenty of material left and I am looking forward for the build.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet-110.jpg  

    Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet-113.jpg  

    Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet-112.jpg  

    Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet-114.jpg  


  2. #2
    get down!
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    Nicely done!
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  3. #3
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    Bold, bravo.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  4. #4
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    Just got a salsa 135 front hub.
    Last edited by NOBBY605; 09-27-2011 at 06:38 PM.

  5. #5
    aka bOb
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    I like the look of the round holes better.....GREAT JOB!!

  6. #6
    -bustin punks
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    How are the 1.5" holed Darryls holding up?

    I'm about to do mine and hee-hawing on what size to do the cutouts - 1" (this is roughly what the stock machined darryl rims are, no?), 1.25", 1.50"

    170 lbs, fairly light on equipment.

  7. #7
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    Got any details on the jig and drilling process? I have a GFS rim that I am wanting to drill...

    Brian

  8. #8
    aka bOb
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    Good here, 1.5" holes and 200# and not real easy on equipment.

  9. #9
    Sup
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Good here, 1.5" holes and 200# and not real easy on equipment.
    I noticed you like to take the brunt of the impact and save the bike
    I am slow therefore I am

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by trumpus View Post
    Got any details on the jig and drilling process? I have a GFS rim that I am wanting to drill...

    Brian
    here you go Tech: Drilling Fat Rims | FAT-BIKE.COM

  11. #11
    aka bOb
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    I noticed you like to take the brunt of the impact and save the bike
    Anything to save the faithful steed! Snow on it's way Joe!

  12. #12
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    Good job, I'll be doing the same to some darryls this weekend!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbs View Post
    Good job, I'll be doing the same to some darryls this weekend!
    Darryls are really easy to mark out if they're not built up.

  14. #14
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    Yeah, they wont be built. I've got all the parts for the build, frame/fork is as paint shop.

    Can't wait to get the bike on the road/sand/mud, it's gonna be sweet!

  15. #15
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    230# ex Pro Downhiller...straight as a arrow.

  16. #16
    -bustin punks
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    Rim sure does get warm when drilling. Are you guys using standard wood/pvc hole saw bits? I bought one marked for metal, the teeth are shorter. Going through pretty good but snags every once in a while, which sucks.

  17. #17
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    i used a 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 both were bi-metal from Dewalt, some holes went fine others made lots of noise and some heat, i followed the speed recommendations on the drill press for alu but found i had to clear the saw of melted on bits every so often.....
    cleaned put the holes with a deburring tool, had to tighten the spokes a little, approx 200km on both sets of wheels and all looks good.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatchanceti View Post
    Rim sure does get warm when drilling. Are you guys using standard wood/pvc hole saw bits? I bought one marked for metal, the teeth are shorter. Going through pretty good but snags every once in a while, which sucks.
    I use cutting oil it helps a little.

  19. #19
    -bustin punks
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    success.

    Front Wheel (no skewer, rim strip, rotor) went from 1534 to 1306 grams (-228 grams, 0.50 lbs)
    Rear Wheel (no skewer, rim strip, rotor) went from 1737 to 1533 grams (-224 grams, 0.49 lbs)

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rmplum/6941587821/" title="Untitled by rmplum, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/6941587821_7083e0a516_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt=""></a>

    Split the difference between the conservative (1" or 1.25") and the ultralight (1.5") holes and did 1-3/8" (35mm). Used a DeWalt metal/pvc rated hole saw bit.

    Another consideration in this was that I relocated the valve hole just adjacent to the seam weld - so leaving just a touch more metal elsewhere didn't seem like an awful idea. Plus, I think the 1-3/8 holes have a nice balanced look.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rmplum/6795474238/" title="Untitled by rmplum, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6795474238_d1ef8aca72_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt=""></a>

    A few tips that really worked for me (this started out hard, but once I got in my groove, it was quick). The 2nd wheel took me well under an hour, maybe 45 minutes or so.

    1. Make the template as above - I used nails to center on the unused spoke holes, they were about 58mm apart diagonally (c-c), so my center hold went at 29mm along that line. Then used a hammer and punch to mark each spot.

    2. Start each hole with a small drill bit, then if you want it clean, work your way up in sizes (when doing the valve stem hole). For the bigger holes, I just did a tiny punch through with the small drill bit - just enough to locate the arbor.

    3. When drilling your holes (if not using a drill press), walk or roll the drill around the spot after you've made an initial circle cut. I tried going straight in, but it was slow and made messy holes. As soon as I started "rolling" the hole saw bit, it went through easily, making really neat cuts. We have a drill press here, but rigging it up with the complete wheel would have been a hassle. Instead I used a fairly large Milwaukee shop drill.

    4. When drilling I set the wheel in/on a large piece of styrofoam that almost looked like a half-box. It cushioned the rim, and collected all of the cutout pieces.

    5. If you don't have cutting oil, spray the area or hole saw bit with a quick blast of WD-40 every 2-3 holes. Makes a HUGE difference, mostly by keeping things cool. When the hole saw blade and rim get hot (no oil) the bit tended to grab and jerk on me. The WD-40 aided cuts are quite a bit messier, but it's worth it. I can't stress this enough. If you cut it all dry the rim gets hot pretty quickly.

    These tips may not work for everyone, but using everything above really made this an easy job after I struggled with the first few cuts on the first rim.

  20. #20
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    It never occurred to me that drilling these rims could be done with build-up wheels. I may give this a go now - with the really good tips offered here it looks pretty clear.

  21. #21
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    Great resources. Thank you all.

  22. #22
    How much does it weigh?
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    I've ridden some AM type trails on my Fatback with the carbon fork and GFS rims drilled out with 42mm hole saw. I've had the bike for 15 months, the rims are still holding up fine, haven't trued them yet, and they're still straight and round.

    Just look how close the spoke holes are to the edge of the hole.


  23. #23
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    Can anybody recommend/suggest what type of drill I would need with specifics to power, cord/cordless, style, brand, etc. I am not knew to power tools, but everything I have used before has not been my own (except for a cheap underpowered cordless). This would be my only foreseen project so price would have to be on the down-low. Thanks!

  24. #24
    How much does it weigh?
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    I used a really old impact drill set to non-impact... just modulate the trigger, and oil the cutting surface.

    Slow is better with aluminum, don't forget that.

  25. #25
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    Bringing this back up from a few months back.

    I am a Clyde wondering how the drilled Rolling Darryls are holding up!

  26. #26
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    mine are holding up fine under my clyde-ish 165 lbs.

  27. #27
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    I drilled a pilot hole with a cordless hand drill. Then Drilled the buggar with the same drill and a1 1/2 hole saw. Two beers later....Two holey-moley rims!

    Drill press? We don't need no stinkin' drill press!

  28. #28
    nvphatty
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatchanceti View Post
    mine are holding up fine under my clyde-ish 165 lbs.
    your a midweight mang.......190 and then you become clydish.

  29. #29
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    Sorry, I should have stated I am a real clyde @ 6'2" and 260#.

  30. #30
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    still rollin strong and true...6'6" 230#

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    your a midweight mang.......190 and then you become clydish.
    190# on a fat bike is about average to light where I come from.

  32. #32
    nvphatty
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    190# on a fat bike is about average to light where I come from.
    must be big folks in them parts.

  33. #33
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    appreciate the info in this thread. Just finished drilling 1.5 inch holes (did 31...and a valve hole somewhat near the weld) and the darryl went from 1024 g to 782 g. Second rim came out to 755 g.

    Cutting oil or real lubricant (not WD40) is helpful in keeping temps down. I used a large, 7 amp hand held drill. I highly recommend making a small jig like this to make drilling the pilot hole quick, easy, and accurate:

    Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet-darryl-drill-jig-compr.jpg
    Last edited by frorider; 02-14-2014 at 07:11 PM.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  34. #34
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    Re: Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet

    165 Clyde.... ha. I weighed that in 7 th grade. I ride poorly drilled Sheba rims and 1 year no cracks or loose spokes.

    Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
    My bike is heavier than yours - it does not have Carbon or Titanium parts - I love it!

  35. #35
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    Darryl loses his gut, and goes on a diet-droidxx-388.jpgdrilled mine 1.25 and the the spoke holes to .50 holding op fine im 230lb

  36. #36
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    Milwaukee 1-3/8 in. Shockwave Thin Wall Hole Saw-49-56-9830 - The Home Depot This bit worked nice on a pair of Darryls. Much smoother cut than regular hole saw. Bit has a shoulder that stops it from going through and hitting spokes. The spring works 50-50, but there are holes for prying out the stuck plugs then boiiinng out it pops. Used that thick cutting oil that pipe threaders use- helped a lot, but a gooey mess. Drilled them in the box they were shipped in to contain it, then threw the box out in the snow so the oily rags don't burn my house down. Next the deburring tool and pocket anodizer.
    Last edited by dudeist; 02-16-2015 at 08:03 PM.

  37. #37
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    I did 31 holes, used a drill press at work, might have pushed a little hard cause they needed a true. (I did buy cutting fluid) I'm thinking about doing some smaller ones in key areas and see If I can get it down to 650 so it can be on par with the new HED B.A.D. and DTswiss's which are like 640 and 675.

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