Results 1 to 34 of 34

Thread: Creak In My 907

  1. #1
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919

    Creak In My 907

    My 907 Whiteout has a tick-creak in it when I put the coals to it. The harder I pedal, the more pronounced it becomes. Accelerating on flat ground it will do it but it really does it hammering uphill.
    This past weekend I was determined to find it. I disassembled the cranks and bottom bracket and pedals. All silky smooth and good. I cleaned everything, added fresh grease and torqued everything accordingly. Chain ring bolts are tight as well. Noise still there.

    Then I removed the rear wheel and checked all the bearings in the Hope hub. I recently replaced them and they were all smooth. I then wiped the old grease off the thru axle and applied new grease. Put everything back together and no noise. Last night, on the Monday night group ride, the bike was quiet for about ten minutes and then the noise returned. I tried messing with the thru axle but no dice.

    I'm going to remove the derailleur hanger tonight and make sure nothing is cracked. I don't see and cracks anywhere on the bike but this is the frame that I cracked where the seat tube and top tube meet. That weld is fine. I would like to know that the frame isn't messed up somehow before I spend money having it re powder coated from the weld repair. Maybe try replacing the thru axle??

    Has anyone had anything like this before?

    Oh yeah, my spoke tensions are perfect. The grease on the thru axle was the only thing that stopped the noise for a while.
    I like turtles

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,773
    I'm currently chasing a similar creak in my Mukluk. Only when putting the power down in significance.
    Replying here to get updates on your checklist of things tried.

    The pedals and headset are also on my list. Trying to isolate if it's push-pull on the bars or only drive-train related.

  3. #3
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,701
    Pull seatpost, clean seat tube and post, fresh grease. Just to check that box.

    Can you stand to the side, put a foot on the 6 oclock pedal, push hard, then go to the other side, put that one at 6 oclock, and push hard, and make the noise, from either or both sides?

    No? Your work sadly, was for naught...

    Just had a buddy explode an aluminum frame, it'd been creaking for a while, he never saw the crack till BOOM.

    Clean and inspect all the welds.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  4. #4
    Loud hubs save lives!
    Reputation: 43st's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    147
    Chased this for several months 3-4 years ago.. Swapped out a bunch of parts, from seat to chain ring, etc.. It ended up being fixed by a little grease on the QR side plates, where they interface with the bike frame.

  5. #5
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Mendon, yeah... I did all of that. I even did the seat and seatpost. I think it may stop it if I check the derailleur hanger. It bolts to the frame with a tiny bolt and the thru axle goes through it as well. The fact that new grease quieted it temporarily gives me hope.
    I think I'm gonna grab one of those RSD frames just in case.
    Last edited by NYrr496; 10-10-2018 at 05:03 AM.
    I like turtles

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CycleBeast's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    8
    I was having a similar creaking problem with my 2015 Whiteout Aluminum. Everytime I pedaled hard or uphill. After replacing 3 or 4 raceface bottom brackets (lost track) in the past few years, the shop discovered it was my crankset that became ovalized and that the bottom brackets were only solving the creaking issue for a short time. I recently swapped out the stock raceface turbine crankset with a new one and so far the creaking issue's gone but man whatta bill.

  7. #7
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Yeah. Those Raceface bottom brackets are kinda spindly. I have a Surly OD crankset on mine. Those parts are tank quality.

    I'll get to work on it tomorrow after work. I only just got home now and everyone wants to watch This Is Us. Thanks for the replies so far. All helpful.
    I like turtles

  8. #8
    All fat, all the time.
    Reputation: Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7,828
    I had a similar noise on my old 907. Remove hanger, clean, grease, reassemble, good to go.

  9. #9
    Thingamejigger
    Reputation: Flying_Scotsman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,016
    Quote Originally Posted by CycleBeast View Post
    the shop discovered it was my crankset that became ovalized and that the bottom brackets were only solving the creaking issue for a short time.
    I have a creak on my carbon whiteout, drive side bb is what is noisey and I am down to thinking its my crank's axle is worn or ovalised.... I am just puting up with it for a while but it is starting to get to me! :-)

  10. #10
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I had a similar noise on my old 907. Remove hanger, clean, grease, reassemble, good to go.
    That's what I'm hoping. Doing it after work. Thanks.
    I like turtles

  11. #11
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    OK... Got home from work and after greeting the dog for ten minutes, I removed my rear wheel, rear derailleur and derailleur hanger. I inspected very carefully for cracks and found none. I cleaned everything and reinstalled everything with new grease. Rode the bike around my neighborhood and no noises whatsoever. We'll see how it goes on the next ride.
    Fingers crossed.
    I like turtles

  12. #12
    All fat, all the time.
    Reputation: Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7,828
    Woohoo good luck!

  13. #13
    This place needs an enema
    Reputation: mikesee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    12,392
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    greeting the dog for ten minutes

    Most mission critical part of any job well done.

  14. #14
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Most mission critical part of any job well done.
    Most certainly. He's my buddy.
    I like turtles

  15. #15
    Thin Man on a Fat bike
    Reputation: SAM313's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    295
    When I get creaking its always my seat. I squirt some lubricant down the holes where the bars under the seat go through the plastic= no creaks for months. Usually worse as it gets cold.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,230
    When I get a creak I typically just tear everything off the bike, everything off the crank, and everything off the rear wheel that I can. Clean and grease all contact points, and reassemble. I have found a single layer of plumbers tape on the threads of the BB eliminates most noise from that area. I also always chase and face my BB shells before I ever ride them.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    492
    I had a creak that I couldn't find after doing all the normal things and this happened to my raceface turbine crank. The rim of the bolt that holds the crank arm on sheared off. The LBS that I bought them from give me a replacement bolt I think its going to work have 25 or 30 miles on it and the creak stopped.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Creak In My 907-20180929_190040_resized.jpg  

    Creak In My 907-20180929_190413_resized.jpg  

    Creak In My 907-20180929_194840_resized.jpg  

    Creak In My 907-20180929_194918_resized.jpg  


  18. #18
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Holy Cats!
    I like turtles

  19. #19
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    30,066
    Just tracked down and eliminated a creak I've had for months today, it was the rear axle not being tight enough. The 12mm thru on this fatbike is kind of like an oversize QR type and it was tight, just not tight enough to eliminate the creak. All is back to being completely silent...at least until the other Next SL crankarm gives out...
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  20. #20
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Went for a good, long ride today on a trail that saw a lot of rain two days ago. Some spots were still a little wet. My bike remained silent for the entire ride. Load off my mind.
    I can get it powder coated now.

    Thanks for all the replies.
    I like turtles

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,181
    It's just toying with you.
    Latitude 61

  22. #22
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    OK... The creak returns after a couple of rides, I disassemble the rear thru axle and derailleur hanger, wipe them down and reassemble and end of noise... For a while.

    Upon closer inspection I found that the grease I keep on the thru axle gets in between the end of the Hope axle adapter and the derailleur hanger where they butt up against each other. That seems to be the source of my noise.
    I decided to buy a new derailleur hanger and a new thru axle. The stock one 9zero7 delivers with the frame is a piece of crap and I've always meant to replace it but with what?
    It's 223mm long by 12mm with a 1.75 pitch thread. NO ONE makes exactly that. I checked Paul's, Paragon and Wolftooth. Robert Axle Project makes one 229mm long which I guess I could shorten unless someone else has any other ideas?
    I like turtles

  23. #23
    Music & Bikes
    Reputation: fokof's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,377
    If you stand on the bike , still creaks ?
    Sitting down ?
    Thinking saddle/seat post/seat collar ....

    I use Brooks (Leather) on all my bike , I had that problem once ... too soft.
    Had to tighten the leather.

    Stem / bar ?
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    My 907 Whiteout has a tick-creak in it when I put the coals to it. The harder I pedal, the more pronounced it becomes. Accelerating on flat ground it will do it but it really does it hammering uphill.
    This past weekend I was determined to find it. I disassembled the cranks and bottom bracket and pedals. All silky smooth and good. I cleaned everything, added fresh grease and torqued everything accordingly. Chain ring bolts are tight as well. Noise still there.

    Then I removed the rear wheel and checked all the bearings in the Hope hub. I recently replaced them and they were all smooth. I then wiped the old grease off the thru axle and applied new grease. Put everything back together and no noise. Last night, on the Monday night group ride, the bike was quiet for about ten minutes and then the noise returned. I tried messing with the thru axle but no dice.

    I'm going to remove the derailleur hanger tonight and make sure nothing is cracked. I don't see and cracks anywhere on the bike but this is the frame that I cracked where the seat tube and top tube meet. That weld is fine. I would like to know that the frame isn't messed up somehow before I spend money having it re powder coated from the weld repair. Maybe try replacing the thru axle??

    Has anyone had anything like this before?

    Oh yeah, my spoke tensions are perfect. The grease on the thru axle was the only thing that stopped the noise for a while.
    I just eliminated a creak under power like you describe. It turned out is was the aluminum freehub body. The little gouges that occur where the cogs dig in was the cause. I switched to a steel freehub body and it's dead quiet.
    This was with a DT 350 177 TA hub and an XT 11S cassette. The fit between the freehub and cassette was also quite loose in terms of tolerances, enough that I was able to install 0.5mm steel shim stock between the cogs and hub.
    This made it silent for about 9 miles until the cogs ate through the shim stock. Hopefully the $80 steel freehub is hardened and will hold up otherwise it will be time to invest in a sram or xtr 12s setup.

  25. #25
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    I have the steel freehub body. I learned not to even buy aluminum ones.

    I've been through the headset bearings, star nut, stem, seatpost and saddle. All quiet. The noise happens in or out of the saddle. It goes away when I remove the axle and derailleur hanger, clean them and put them back. Never did it before this. That's why I'm thinking of replacing everything. Maybe stuff is wearing.
    I like turtles

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,230
    I just tore my 9:ZERO:7 down to the bare frame for a refresh. It is only two seasons old, but I realized I need to pay more attention to it. I would say a complete tear down on a yearly or semi annual basis is required based on what I found.

    Lower headset bearing was pretty well adhered to the frame, as the crown race 9:ZERO:7 used was a junk piece w/o a wiper to keep junk out. After pounding it out I swapped it out with a CC 40 lower bearing and race (race has a wiper seal). I swapped the junk RF bottom bracket with Rotor cups I found on eBay for super cheap. I always wrap the threads of the bb with teflon plumbers tape to eliminate creaks. I also noted the der hanger was loose and some crud had got between it and the frame.

    Everything has been torn down as far as I am comfortable with, cleaned, and greased. I have spent way too much time cleaning this thing up, and I still have a few hours left of cleaning and tuning. But it will be ready to ride this winter, and I plan on having a custom cover made for my bike rack so when I drive on these crusty salt covered roads, the bike isn't getting covered in grit.

  27. #27
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Yep... When I initially built my bike I didn't like the crown race they sent me and I gpt a Cane Creek with a seal on it. Been great.
    I have a whole Surly OD crankset on it with Enduro bearings in it. That whole thing is tough as nails.
    I like turtles

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,230
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Yep... When I initially built my bike I didn't like the crown race they sent me and I gpt a Cane Creek with a seal on it. Been great.
    I have a whole Surly OD crankset on it with Enduro bearings in it. That whole thing is tough as nails.
    I'm not surprised they cut corners on the headset. I bet the Surly is a beast of a crank!

    I see now that chain reaction/fatbikes.com looks to be down for the count? Website ahs like three items on it.

  29. #29
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,919
    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post

    I see now that chain reaction/fatbikes.com looks to be down for the count? Website ahs like three items on it.

    Who knows. I needed a few of the 907 rear brake spaced front hubs and emailed them not expecting an answer but they replied and sold me some. Maybe they'll fix it up.
    I like turtles

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,104
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    ... and a new thru axle. The stock one 9zero7 delivers with the frame is a piece of crap and I've always meant to replace it but with what?
    It's 223mm long by 12mm with a 1.75 pitch thread. NO ONE makes exactly that. I checked Paul's, Paragon and Wolftooth. Robert Axle Project makes one 229mm long which I guess I could shorten unless someone else has any other ideas?
    Tricky size... I was looking for something similar a while ago...

    I'd probably go Robert Axle, but maybe some ideas not knowing what your dropouts look like:

    Fat Bike Bolt-on Through axle 197X12mm - FatbackBikes

    https://lynskeyperformance.com/lynsk...-thread-pitch/
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  31. #31
    Thingamejigger
    Reputation: Flying_Scotsman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,016
    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I see now that chain reaction/fatbikes.com looks to be down for the count? Website ahs like three items on it.
    They communicated that they had split ways with 9:zero:7...

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,230
    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    They communicated that they had split ways with 9:zero:7...
    Interesting. Doesn't look like they have much to offer now.

    The shop I bought my 9:ZERO:7 from has also done the same, bummer.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    174
    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    They communicated that they had split ways with 9:zero:7...
    Under brands on the Chain Reaction site it still lists 9:zero:7 with pictures of the new Lynx. And i thought that Chain Reaction and 9:Zero:7 moved into the same building within the last year? I think Jayem mentioned this way back in the thread last winter.

    Seems fatbikes.com is going away and they're going to start selling on 907bikes.com

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I have the steel freehub body. I learned not to even buy aluminum ones.

    I've been through the headset bearings, star nut, stem, seatpost and saddle. All quiet. The noise happens in or out of the saddle. It goes away when I remove the axle and derailleur hanger, clean them and put them back. Never did it before this. That's why I'm thinking of replacing everything. Maybe stuff is wearing.
    Just be patient and systematically go though every system. It took me the last month and a half to do so but now my bike is totally quiet which I really really like. Another are to check is the top cap, I had fancy one that doubled as a tool but on the ID you could see thread marks. Swapped it out and no more front end noise.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 23
    Last Post: 12-10-2014, 08:51 AM
  2. i-drive creak creak creak
    By slo65 in forum GT
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 04-18-2011, 07:54 AM
  3. Replies: 46
    Last Post: 05-28-2009, 09:57 AM
  4. Creak...Creak...Creak
    By lucero in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 03-17-2007, 06:56 PM
  5. creak creak creak
    By bikecop in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 09-14-2005, 09:17 PM

Members who have read this thread: 106

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2018 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.