Crankset & Bottom Bracket for Minnesota 3.0-
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DETarch's Avatar
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    Feb 2011

    Crankset & Bottom Bracket for Minnesota 3.0

    I'm starting to lose my mind trying to figure out measurements with bottom brackets, q-factors, and rear spacing with my first fat bike, so I'm turning to this group's collective wisdom...

    On my 2nd ride on my Framed Minnesota 3.0, the crank arm bolt came loose, and I pedaled for a bit before realizing the crank arm was wobbling. I definitely rounded the square hold in the crank arm, and suspect the spindle was damaged as well.

    I'm looking to just replace everything, as it's definitely an area of the bike where costs were saved.

    This is where I'm getting confused...the BB is 100mm, but I don't know if sets like this...

    SRAM Fat Bike Crankset and Bottom Bracket

    ...would work on my bike with 190mm (I believe) rear spacing.

    Any insight on compatible parts is much appreciated!!

    '19 Bronson CC
    Kona Rove ST + Burley D'Lite

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dbhammercycle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    You would want a crankset where the spindle is longer to accommodate the wider 190mm rear axle. I recently purchased a MN 2.2 and found an ebay deal for a RF turbine for a 170 rear. The bb shell is 100mm for both our frames but the spindle for the cranks would be a different length since you have the 190 rear hub to fit the 4.7 tires. You would want the 190 version which takes an 11.5mm spacer on either side of the bb. Where I want the 170 version that takes 3 2.5mm spacers (1 nondrive and 2 drive side). However, I may need to play with mine a bit to get the right chainline. It appears that my crankset has 5mm offset on the drive side to get a clear chainline for the 2x10 on the 170 hub. I asked the guys at the House what crankset I should get and they told me to get the spindle length for the 170mm rear. In addition, I asked the seller what he was running and he had a 2x10 setup. So, I'm hopeful that it will work and I won't loose the small ring with the big cog combo. You should call the House and ask to talk to the bike mechs, they should be able to help.

    This link may help.
    Salsa Cycles

    This illustrates what I'm talking about for the RF cranks.

    I didn't really answer your question about the X5. A lot of people have put those on the 2.0 with the 170 rear and it isn't clear on the linked page if there is a 190 rear version, which is clear as day in the linked page for the RF Next crank in the Framed MN 3.0 thread you posted in as well. So, I would find a crankset that explicitly lists being for the 190 rear. The RF turbine EXI version exists for a better pricepoint or go cinch if you prefer.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

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