Crank questions...which one and is 2x10 enough?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Crank questions...which one and is 2x10 enough?

    I searched (probably not the right way) but can't find all I want to know so I figured I'd start a new thread to 1) annoy those of you who clearly know a lot more than me and have already posted the info on various other threads and 2) get an answer

    I have a 2012 9:zero:7 170mm on order and am slowly collecting parts before it shows up. I'm going to run Hope's new hubs on it (have them already and they're sweet!) with cutout RDs. Not sure what tire but I'm reading good things about the H Dus. Anyway, I don't want to spend a ton of loot on this but I will spend more money if it's truly worth it.

    Now the questions:

    Is a 2x10 setup enough for most situations or do I need to run a third ring? I'm not a hammer and will basically be just cruising local single and doubletrack- riding the road about 2 miles to get there but have some decent hills to navigate both on the road and trails.

    If I do go 2x10 what do you guys with actual experience recommend for a crank? I'm looking at the Fatback, e.13, Surly MWOD and ???-you tell me.

    If I go Fatback or MWOD will those clear pretty much everything without major issue? I'd prefer not to have to tear cogs out of my cassette if I can avoid it.

    What gearing (front and rear) are you guys using and why?

    If I missed any important info or you just want to bash my fatbike ignorance feel free to fire away.

    Thanks in advance,
    J

  2. #2
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    Others will no doubt chime in, but here is my take. I started on my Pugs with the standard 3x9 (22/32/44x12-32), went to 2x9 (26/34, same cassette) 2x10 on my new E13 (32/36x12-36) and now 1x10 (32T x same cassette). The 1x10 is all I need for 4 seasons trail riding (SE MI anyways), but with races like the Barry Roubaix, I could have really used a 24T granny. If I were to do it all over again, I would go 2x9 (24 or 26/34 or 36 rings and a 12-36 cassette) because it seemed to be the best compromise. As you can probably tell, I have no need for a big ring.

  3. #3
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    I'd try the new Fatback crank. I just put one on my wife's bike. It has lots of clearance, is cheap and fairly light.

    I ride a 22/36 front 12/32 rear right now. It is an 8 speed rear end because I am pretty old school. I am going to switch to a 2 X 9 soon because I can't get XTR cassettes in 8 anymore. There are a very few times in the summer when I would like a higher gear but they are very few. So you should be good to go with a 2 X 10.
    Latitude 61

  4. #4
    Frt Range, CO
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    I'd go for a MWOD 20/36 and a 9 speed 12x36. I just can't get too low of a gear on a fatbike. Going 10 speed just adds an 11, I can't spin out a 36x12 very often on a fatbike, what am I going to do with an 11? Here's the gear table in gear inches:


    20 36

    12 48.3 87.0
    14 41.4 74.6
    16 36.3 65.3
    18 32.2 58.0
    21 27.6 49.7
    24 24.2 43.5
    28 20.7 37.3
    32 18.1 32.6
    36 16.1 29.0

  5. #5
    nvphatty
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    I too am collecting parts and it rocks!!

    My setup will be a Race face Atlas 1x9 32t - 11/34 cassette and hopefully be right for my riding conditions and desires.
    A 2x9/10 would surely be plenty with no need for a 3rd ring unless its a 25 degree ascent then just step off and carry it..

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbaz View Post

    Is a 2x10 setup enough for most situations or do I need to run a third ring? I'm not a hammer and will basically be just cruising local single and doubletrack- riding the road about 2 miles to get there but have some decent hills to navigate both on the road and trails.
    I run a 1 x 8 and rarely run out of gears or walk so a 2 x 10 would be plenty...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  7. #7
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    I started with an 11-speed Alfine but felt that I could have done with lower gears. This was possible by going against Shimanos recommended gearing limits, but I thought I'd try 2x9 anyway as I already had the Raceface 100 crank set. I reckon this is just about perfect.

    I currently have an 11-34 cassette on the back. 12-36 would be an option but I don't feel I need it.

    Going to a 3x9 (or 3x10) would also mandate the longer cage rear mech, something I was trying to avoid. A "shadow", short cage mech is pretty much out of the way enough for most conditions.

    Oh - 135mm 2012 9zero7 with cutout RDs and Husker Du's.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the responses.

    I live in CT and run my Mary 29er (leave this one in MA at my brother's house) as a SS and my Inbred 29er as 1x9 but since I've never ridden a fatty I wasn't sure. I think I'll go 2x9 and see what's what. If I find I only need one up front I'll just not bother to shift LOL.

    Thanks again,
    J

  9. #9
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    whatever you do, keep in mind the crank arms will get trashed much faster.

  10. #10
    Black Sheep rising
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    Quote Originally Posted by deuxdiesel View Post
    Others will no doubt chime in, but here is my take. I started on my Pugs with the standard 3x9 (22/32/44x12-32), went to 2x9 (26/34, same cassette) 2x10 on my new E13 (32/36x12-36) and now 1x10 (32T x same cassette). The 1x10 is all I need for 4 seasons trail riding (SE MI anyways), but with races like the Barry Roubaix, I could have really used a 24T granny. If I were to do it all over again, I would go 2x9 (24 or 26/34 or 36 rings and a 12-36 cassette) because it seemed to be the best compromise. As you can probably tell, I have no need for a big ring.
    Oddly enough, I was going to go 2x9 for this race, but without the granny. I spent a LOT of time in the big ring. Never touched the granny.

    Full Disclosure: Dave (deuxdiesel) above beat me by a fair margin (~15 minutes, IIRC), so take my advice with a grain of salt. Also, my best cadence is in the 60-ish range, rather than the "normal" 90 RPM.
    Let the market decide!

    N42.58 W83.06

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