Cork bonded to Aluminum?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cork bonded to Aluminum?

    Given cork's hand-grippiness and insulation value, I want to bond some cork to aluminum. I figure epoxy will work well, but the aluminum is anodized. What prep should be done to the anodized aluminum surface before bonding? I thought I had that info already, but apparently not, or misfiled.

    Thanks,
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  2. #2
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    Are you making your own grips or something else?

  3. #3
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    Something else; cork grips already available. But I want the ability to grip, not get frozen, and no thermal shock. Hence cork.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  4. #4
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    Light sand, clean with rubbing alcohol, epoxy. Whatchu got going?

  5. #5
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    If you are wrapping frame tubes could use just use cork grip tape made for road bars?

    Epoxy seems so permanent. Could you try some good double sided tape under the cork?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    If you are wrapping frame tubes could use just use cork grip tape made for road bars? ...
    I did not know this existed. I can even underlay with something else insulating before topping with that tape. Very good to know.

    > Light sand, clean with rubbing alcohol, epoxy.
    Seems so easy. I have it in my mind somewhere that there's a trick to anodized surfaces.

    Nothing special intended. I just wanted to be able to grab/hold the bars anywhere without thermal shock or sucking the heat out of my hands when I wanted a change of position during a long haul. Then, with the ability to put cork on anodized, where else could it be useful.

    I suppose I could insulate a bar where the fat tires may stay up on the snow but my feet want to sink in while on either side of a particular bar, just in case I have an unexpected stop in deeper snow.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  7. #7
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    Nothing wrong with multiple layers of grip tape. Roadies do this if they are looking for a little more cushion or if they have larger hands.

    Iíve seen fat bikers do this to compensate for when wearing big gloves.

    Also some people have used Neoprene to custom make grip/bar covers.

  8. #8
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    ^^^ This. Just use bar tape. My normal grips are a double wrap of bar tape for my mt bikes. Or use some pipe insulation. Cheap? Split an old inner tube lengthwise. Then wrap.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Seems so easy. I have it in my mind somewhere that there's a trick to anodized surfaces.
    For the record, I'd say you are half right here. If performing a structural bond, you'd be better off removing the anodizing and etch the aluminum surface prior to bonding. Anodizing can flake off similar to paint, taking the bonding agent with it and failing.

    For something non-structural, I'd say have at it. But I'd use a non-permanent adhesive like barge cement or even 3M double sided tape. Or like others have said, cork bar tape for road bikes.

  10. #10
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    https://www.hardcoresledder.com/foru.../topics/976753


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    For the record, I'd say you are half right here. If performing a structural bond, you'd be better off removing the anodizing and etch the aluminum surface prior to bonding. Anodizing can flake off similar to paint, taking the bonding agent with it and failing.

    For something non-structural, I'd say have at it. But I'd use a non-permanent adhesive like barge cement or even 3M double sided tape. Or like others have said, cork bar tape for road bikes.
    Anodizing cannot flake off like paint, totally not true. Anodizing is not a coating like paint or powdercoat. If done correctly, the anodizing becomes part of the material.

    I agree with everything else you said though. I'd go 2 wraps of cork bar tape.

  12. #12
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    I've seen ano flake off, but it was in parts exposed to high temperature cycles repeatedly (carbon molds). But it probably did have something to do with the ano process since it isn't a common problem that we have. Either way, I still think etching is better.

  13. #13
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    Jeff Jones offered cork grips a while back and recommended 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Worked well for me.
    I see they have other strengths too.
    His bars had cork grips with cork bar tape wrapping the rest of it for multiple hand positions.

  14. #14
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    3M (plus others I'm sure) offer double sided foam tape for attaching emblems to cars. Very sticky stuff, totally weather-proof, plus it has the advantage of a thin foam base, which seems to be where you are headed.
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  15. #15
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    My wife has corks grips for her bike. We just used a little hair spray for some slight adhesion. She isn't a rough rider though, I don't know how well the grips would adhere through chunky stuff.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I've seen ano flake off, but it was in parts exposed to high temperature cycles repeatedly (carbon molds). But it probably did have something to do with the ano process since it isn't a common problem that we have. Either way, I still think etching is better.
    I've seen ano tooling exposed to 200C cycles repeatedly with no flaking.

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  17. #17
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    3M 77 spray, 3M weather strip adhesive.

    Epoxy, meh...
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    3M 77 spray, 3M weather strip adhesive...
    Either of the above, DAP Weldwood Contact Cement or Pliobond 25 = all good choices for cork.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    Either of the above, DAP Weldwood Contact Cement or Pliobond 25 = all good choices for cork.
    PL400?? hehe
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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