Clydesdale Needs Fatbike Guidance- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Clydesdale Needs Fatbike Guidance

    Hello all,

    I got the fever, and the only cure is more fatbike!!

    I have just about enough saved up for the purchase of a frame. But have a few questions before I pull the trigger. I am 6'2" 260lbs (down from 305ish this spring ) and am looking to build a good reliable lower budget fatbike for winter riding. I will be riding in sand, snow, on river beds, and a little on single track. I need your help with Clyde worthy parts, so here it goes.

    1) I am considering the 9:zero:7 Frameset in either 135mm or 170mm offset. For max durability and flotation, what is my best wheel/ tire combo? I don't need the biggest and baddest, or the latest and greatest. I need proven parts that can handle my largness.

    2) I am thinking 135mm as there seems to be more used/cheaper wheelsets out there ( again, trying to get it out on the trails, and don't have much $$ for crazy parts yet). Is the difference between a 5" tire on 80mm rim vs. 100mm rim going to float me that much more?

    3) Are IGH stout enough for big dudes? I cannot spend too much on them ( i.e. Rohloff ) but really like the thought of not having to worry about stuff hanging out to get ripped off, clogged up. So I would initially want to be traditional in a 2x9/10 setup, but could go IGH later down the road.

    4) These are my immediate needs, but down the road I will be able to throw more money at the bike ( i.e. giong crazy on the wide wheels tires/hope hubs etc.). I don't plan on any crazy bikepacking any time soon, so flipping wheels front/back isn't a concern. I would at least like to get the bike build up by mid winter, and upgrade as I break stuff.

    What do you think my ideal frame/ wheel tire combo should be?

  2. #2
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    A used 20" Pugsley is easily going to be your best bang for the buck.

    Flotation from standard Large Marge rims will not be the same as clownshoes, but I have found that if you get alot of slush, wider is not better. Width is most beneficial on sand and powder snow. If you are blessed with lots of soft powdery snow, likely bikes in your area may have already had the upgrade to wider tires.
    Once tires are worn. For trail riding and getting around town, a daily rider would benefit from the lower replacement cost of 27tpi tires, as a frugal Clyde, it's the best option.

  3. #3
    Black Sheep rising
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    FWIW, I am also ....more powerfully developed (~270-280, depending on lunch and bathroom schedules).

    As has been posted, a used Pugsley or Mukluk is your best value. I prefer the symmetry and slightly better spec of the Mukluk, but can't argue with the bang/buck of the Pug.

    IMO, unless you are spending a lot of time in really soft conditions, rims wider than 80mm are kinda unnecessary, and I would say a detriment in "harder" conditions (hardpack trails with rocks and roots). I get along swimmingly with Rolling Darryls, even in deep sand. Tire pressure is a bigger key here than rim width.

    If, like me, you are built for low-end torque rather than high-RPM spinning, I'd stay away from IGH's other than a Rohloff. They just don't seem to be designed with Clydes in mind.

    HTH, and congrats on the weight loss!
    Let the market decide!

    N42.58 W83.06

  4. #4
    turtles make me hot
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    I agree with Roobydoo. If you're tight on cash right now, go for a used bike and ride til you're ready for something else. If you keep it nice, you can even re sell it and use the cash toward a new bike.
    I'm 255 pounds. I bought a Fatback frame and fork this past January. I spent the rest of the year getting an MWOD crankset, hubs and rims as funds allowed. I'll probably be installing the drivetrain as the snow starts to fall. I figured I need to go maximum floatation at my weight.
    In my opinion, the 170mm frames are more well rounded as they can also accept 29er wheels, but I have a few bikes, so I probably won't ever do that.
    I like turtles

  5. #5
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    The Pug frame is the way to go, I'm a fatty on a fatty( 240lbs) and ride Pug SS with Nate's, large Marge wheels laced to a 135 mm XT hub. I have had no problem with the hubs or frame at all. Def check out ebay for used parts.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the info, but I am not really looking at a pug. I want a 9:zero:7 frame, and guessing that a 135mm frame would be best ( that is what the pug is).

    Also, it looks like a Phil Wood square taper bottom bracket and square taper crankset may be the most cost effective/ robust solution?

  7. #7
    turtles make me hot
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    Actually, I was looking at the Phil Wood BB to use for a while because I have a set of square taper cranks, but by the time I added the BB, the cups and the chainrings, it's not that far off of an MWOD, which I believe is the best option for an offset rear wheel.
    I like turtles

  8. #8
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    What is a clyde worthy wheelset?

  9. #9
    nvphatty
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    What is a clyde worthy wheelset?
    the kind that goes round without a thump thump

  10. #10
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    I've Been Framed !

    I got a 2011 XL Fatback for cheap if you are interested on Flea Bay !

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Thanks for the info, but I am not really looking at a pug. I want a 9:zero:7 frame, and guessing that a 135mm frame would be best ( that is what the pug is).

    Also, it looks like a Phil Wood square taper bottom bracket and square taper crankset may be the most cost effective/ robust solution?
    You can't use "Phil Wood" and "cost effective" in the same sentence.
    Most of the decent square taper cranks on the market are from pricey, boutique brands like Middleburn and White Industries.

    For flexibility and affordability, an ISIS BB and crank might be the best way to go. Fatbikes.com sells an FSA crank for $70 and 2 different ISIS BB's for $55 and $61.

    You really only need an MWOD for the BFL/Clownshoe combo like the Moonlander has.

  12. #12
    bikeboatbrewski
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    What is a clyde worthy wheelset?
    The Surly Large Marge DH rims are indestructible unless you drive over them with a bulldozer. Got an offset pair I could let go of if you are interested.

  13. #13
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    A semi local bike shop ( 1.5 hrs away ) has a 170mm Large 9:zero:7 in Red ( which I really like/want ). I don't quite have the cash yet, but might put a deposit down on it just for a little motivation.

    I am thinking LM wheels, and nates front and back. Damn, I wish I had more cash.

  14. #14
    bikeboatbrewski
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    For me I have taken up to a year to put together a build waiting for parts to go on sale and deals to happen. Helps to have another bike to ride in the mean time.

    If that is the frame you want/need, plunk some coppers down on the frame to reserve it, you will be happy latter.

  15. #15
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    My ultimate goal is to have it completed for at least one snow ride, but I get so hyped up over new toys that I never wait like I should. I have a road and mtn bike, but really prefer not to take either out in the snow to protect my investments from the salt.

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