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  1. #1
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    Carbon rim bummer

    So, was out for a ride the other night, a few inches of fresh over frozen ground.

    Running lower pressures than what was likely wise, and hit something pretty hard, unseen. Rock, root, frozen clump of dirt, no idea.

    Never gave it a second thought, till last nights ride, when my tire was flat. Looked for a thorn, popped the tire off, plenty of Stans still in there. Aired it up, held overnight, but was definitely softer by this AM.

    Okay, time to get to the bottom of it.

    Removed the tire, cleaned all the goo up, tire's fine, rim tape all in tact, wait, what's that split in the tape?

    Took the tape off, and found this, ah boo.

    Sent a note to the manufacturer, waiting for their feedback, but thought I'd see what others think. Dead? Retape and ride? Build it up with some resin, and ride?

    Not saying who made the rim, as it's not relevant, and I definitely cased the rim, sh*t happens, I'm just bummed and hoping someone has a bright idea......
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  2. #2
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    Does the crack go all the way down to where the spoke nipple threads sits? It sort of looks as though it might...
    Fatbikes tho

  3. #3
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    ouch....I would love to get carbon rims but threads like this scare the crap out of me.

    Sorry I can't be of any help.
    Mike
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  4. #4
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    It looks like the impact just busted the inside wall, not through to the spoke wall. Mark the spoke hole that's over this crack, tape up the rim and ride it keeping an eye on the marked spoke hole for problems. I would think this damage would not effect the rim as a whole.
    Or send it off to a carbon repair shop for some doctoring, looks easily fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbsbiker View Post
    It looks like the impact just busted the inside wall, not through to the spoke wall. Mark the spoke hole that's over this crack, tape up the rim and ride it keeping an eye on the marked spoke hole for problems. I would think this damage would not effect the rim as a whole.
    Or send it off to a carbon repair shop for some doctoring, looks easily fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.
    Kinda hard to tell tbh

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    Fatbikes tho

  6. #6
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    Crack is just on the inner wall.

    Outer wall is fine, which is part of why I was baffled and looking for a cause.

    I checked all around the rim edge, thinking I might have cracked that, looked at spoke holes externally, nuttin, so I went in.....

    Doesn't have to be pretty, any home job carbon guys that can weigh in?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  7. #7
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    "Be what you is and not what you is not. Folks that is what they is, is the happiest lot."

  8. #8
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    I would drill a little tiny hole at the end of the crack and then put a few layers of fiberglass or carbon fiber fabric in epoxy resin over the crack. Smooth up the edges and ride on. And yes I'd check it every now and then.

    Swerny, if you did the same thing with a light aluminum rim it would likely be toast. This is easy to fix.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flucod View Post
    Craig how much you weigh?
    ~180 geared to go.

    Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

    sryanak, not in my wheel house, do they make like, pre-wetted patch packs, or is it a buy yards of fabric and a gallon of goop, sorta thing?

    Thanks all!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  10. #10
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    IIRC, you can get smallish carbon patches and I'd bet you can find some pre-wetted with resin, though I'll bet that it'll be cheaper to buy the fabric and resin separately. Pending response from the MFR, I think this qualifies as repairable.

    Hell, I once JB welded a similar crack on a UST aluminum rim at the valve hole and it held up pretty well. In fact, it held up well enough to hold a tubeless seal and the crack never propagated.

  11. #11
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    Call the manufacturer and tell them you were JRA and ask what their warranty is for JRA's.

    If they don't buy that, ask about crash replacement, never know.

    That blows dude, but kudos to you for not tossing anyone under the bus and admitting it isn't anyone else's fault. Bravo. My solution would involve a new rim, but I'm curious what you end up doing.

  12. #12
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    Bummer indeed. Looks repairable. This is the reason I don't air down as low as I'd like to at the local park (it's very rocky there)

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  13. #13
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    I had a 4" spike go through my tire and nextie rim at a race this winter. I used some epoxy to seal it back up and it has been holding fine. Put some epoxy on there, tape it up and ride.

  14. #14
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    The carbon fiber is only strong because it is saturated with resin. Once cracked, the structure is damaged, not unlike other "systems" where the matrix is damaged (concrete, drywall, etc..).

    You need a fiber reinforced patch that covers the cracked area substantially beyond the crack, which is doable, though being cracked at the spoke hole is kinda bad cuz you probably need to patch over the spoke hole.

    If the maker is cool with you patching the rim without that being a warranty void, that would certainly be easier than rebuilding the wheel.

    Maybe CF is not the best choice for rims? CF is clearly not impact resistant. I'm just curious why people think it's a good idea. I ride aluminum, it works fine, I bang my rims, bend them, dent them, and it's amazingly easy to get them to function.

    I once tacoed an aluminum rim on my touring bike after getting stuck in a slot on a wooden bridge. I put the rim in a desk drawer and tweaked it back to "straight", then rode it with daily truing for another 2k on fully loaded panniers; I was in the Midwest on a cross country ride, no $$ for a new wheel.

  15. #15
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    Fixable at home. The beauty of carbon.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Maybe CF is not the best choice for rims? CF is clearly not impact resistant. I'm just curious why people think it's a good idea. I ride aluminum, it works fine, I bang my rims, bend them, dent them, and it's amazingly easy to get them to function.
    Preaching to the choir, brother....

    Why? Roughly half the weight, and dead simple tubeless set up.

    Were it a Stans Arch for 29er, I wouldn't care about the weight. Fat bike rims though, do weigh "something". So cutting that, substantially, is attractive.

    These are an experiment. I own virtually nothing else carbon, no posts, no bars, no cranks. I work in the industry, I see way too much failure to want it everywhere on my bike. Also dislike it being "the reason you are winning" or, more properly, "the reason you didn't win". Oh, your on a steel frame? Dude, get carbon, you can't keep up on steel!

    Meh, sounds like I have choices. Am in communication with a few folks now, getting to the bottom of the DIY vs send it out, question. Sounds like DIY may be just fine as long as I take a few things into account....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  17. #17
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    I'd fix that right up myself with Permatex 5 Minute Epoxy.

    I repaired a Cat engine block with it once... 30 years ago. Still running.
    I like turtles

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Oh, your on a steel frame? Dude, get carbon, you can't keep up on steel!
    What happens with carbon + steel frame? Explosions?
    Just asking for a friend.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I'd fix that right up myself with Permatex 5 Minute Epoxy.

    I repaired a Cat engine block with it once... 30 years ago. Still running.
    This. Blob of epoxy, let cure, retape, go ride.

  20. #20
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    I'd think fiberglass cloth would be fine on such a small area, I used this on a paddleboard and worked great...

    Amazon.com : Ding All Epoxy Repair Kit : Surfing Equipment : Sports & Outdoors

    I'd go right past the hole and then drill it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    I would drill a little tiny hole at the end of the crack and then put a few layers of fiberglass or carbon fiber fabric in epoxy resin over the crack. Smooth up the edges and ride on. And yes I'd check it every now and then.
    Yep. Drilling the hole at the end of the crack is key. The round hole helps stop the crack from spreading. I'd also rough up the area to be patched with some 100 grit sandpaper to help improve adhesion.

  22. #22
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    So, sounds like most think just glue and go. I'm fine with that, seems like plenty of good results out there.

    Question is (not being a structural engineer) should I glob shit on the underside with say, a bent spoke, too, or is topside glueing sufficient?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zowie View Post
    What happens with carbon + steel frame? Explosions?
    Just asking for a friend.
    Aw dude, bad things, baaaaaad things.......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  24. #24
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    Top side glue is sufficient if recreating the air seal is the only goal.

    If it were me I'd include just a smidgen of fiber, taking care to not disturb the inflation ramp surface too much.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  25. #25
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    Rivet some aluminum in there!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  26. #26
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    You can't fix the structure because it is cracked, adding resin won't repair the break, so ultimately the resin will crack in the same place because it has no structure. You need to add structure to support the crack.

    1 in. x 1.1 yds. Repair Wrap-857101004006 - The Home Depot

    I got some, it's inexpensive, and it's available. I haven't tried it yet, but I'd think a piece placed down the middle of the rim, over the spoke hole, cover the crack to either side by an inch, that'll hold things in check.

    Skip the drilling, it probably won't propagate as it's an impact fracture, just get the area rough before applying the tape, push the fracture back into the rim so it's flush, maybe bring the wheel inside and get it warmed up before applying the tape.

    So I'm curious if having a single thick wall might be an advantage over having two thinner walls. It might be heavier, but a single thick wall would be more resistant to impacts...

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    So, sounds like most think just glue and go. I'm fine with that, seems like plenty of good results out there.

    Question is (not being a structural engineer) should I glob shit on the underside with say, a bent spoke, too, or is topside glueing sufficient?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    So I'm curious if having a single thick wall might be an advantage over having two thinner walls. It might be heavier, but a single thick wall would be more resistant to impacts...
    This is a 1 in 100,000 impact, or more. Clipping the sidewalls at low pressure? Sure, but to take a rock mid-rim? That's almost unheard of. If you did this on an aluminum rim of the same weight, I'd think the end result would be at least as devastating.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Question is (not being a structural engineer) should I glob shit on the underside with say, a bent spoke, too, or is topside glueing sufficient?
    I am one and I've yet to specify it in that manner on paper. Reviewing as-built work in the field, yeah, I'd say 9 of 10 times that's the way it actually turns out.

    I'm with the glue and go faction, but I do not have experience with such small elements and forces. You barely have my attention at 3/16" thick and 1000lbs.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    You can't fix the structure because it is cracked, adding resin won't repair the break, so ultimately the resin will crack in the same place because it has no structure. You need to add structure to support the crack.

    1 in. x 1.1 yds. Repair Wrap-857101004006 - The Home Depot

    I got some, it's inexpensive, and it's available. I haven't tried it yet, but I'd think a piece placed down the middle of the rim, over the spoke hole, cover the crack to either side by an inch, that'll hold things in check.

    Skip the drilling, it probably won't propagate as it's an impact fracture, just get the area rough before applying the tape, push the fracture back into the rim so it's flush, maybe bring the wheel inside and get it warmed up before applying the tape.

    So I'm curious if having a single thick wall might be an advantage over having two thinner walls. It might be heavier, but a single thick wall would be more resistant to impacts...
    To answer your last question a thicker single wall rim should be better for impact resistance. It would not have to be heavier as long as the single wall was the same thickness as the total of the two walls in the double wall. It would probably be a bit less stiff torsionlly but that is probably not a big deal with the loads in a fat bike rim. The problem would be if it did fail from a hit like MCS took then the whole structure is compromised and the fix would be a bigger deal. Not impossible to fix by any means but not something for the uninitiated to deal with.

    I've never had much luck with those box store magic fixes. You have so that's good for you. If this was my rim I'd use a good structural epoxy like West System G Flex which should be available at any good marine parts or fiberglass supply store. I would cut a couple of small pieces of fiberglass cloth one that overlapped the break by 1/2" and one that overlapped it by an inch. Wet out the spot, stick on the cloth tamp it down with an acid brush to get good saturation, lay the other piece of cloth, repeat the tamp and add a little resin if the cloth doesn't wet out, tamp until it does and call it good. Then I'd get nervous and do a third layer. I would not worry about the spoke hole until I had to take the wheel apart someday, then I'd drill it.

    Menden you could probably tell your tale of woe to a fiberglass repair shop and they might give you enough cloth. If not PM me and I can send you some. It is probably better to use regular glass cloth as it is much easier to tell if it has wet out then carbon fiber is.

    T
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  30. #30
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    I've had a few cracks like that from early learning curves and tire pressure. I just dug the cracks out a little and filled it in/ over with epoxy... 1000 miles later no problems. I agree, the better way would be lay some cloth but I can't complain with my results

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    To answer your last question a thicker single wall rim should be better for impact resistance. It would not have to be heavier as long as the single wall was the same thickness as the total of the two walls in the double wall. It would probably be a bit less stiff torsionlly but that is probably not a big deal with the loads in a fat bike rim. The problem would be if it did fail from a hit like MCS took then the whole structure is compromised and the fix would be a bigger deal. Not impossible to fix by any means but not something for the uninitiated to deal with.

    I've never had much luck with those box store magic fixes. You have so that's good for you. If this was my rim I'd use a good structural epoxy like West System G Flex which should be available at any good marine parts or fiberglass supply store. I would cut a couple of small pieces of fiberglass cloth one that overlapped the break by 1/2" and one that overlapped it by an inch. Wet out the spot, stick on the cloth tamp it down with an acid brush to get good saturation, lay the other piece of cloth, repeat the tamp and add a little resin if the cloth doesn't wet out, tamp until it does and call it good. Then I'd get nervous and do a third layer. I would not worry about the spoke hole until I had to take the wheel apart someday, then I'd drill it.

    Menden you could probably tell your tale of woe to a fiberglass repair shop and they might give you enough cloth. If not PM me and I can send you some. It is probably better to use regular glass cloth as it is much easier to tell if it has wet out then carbon fiber is.

    T
    +1
    And go the extra mile and cut a thin caulplate out of a beer can or something. Add mold release or equivalent, could probably get by with a used condoms if you want to recycle.
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  32. #32
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    Thanks all, Drew has some leftover scraps and the end of a container of epoxy, just what I need.

    Used condoms....

    Yeah, I took care of that problem a long time ago, best thing I ever did!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  33. #33
    vmk
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    I fixed friends rim which was basically broken trough. What looked like a smallish crack went really deep when I started to grind it. I think that the crack was opening long after it was damaged because the pressure of the spokes. So if you damage a cf-rim, ease up the spokes to prevent more damage.

    I used pressure bag for the 1st layer and vacuum after that. He's still riding on the rim and he rides really hard

    Make sure that the rim is straight and round before you start to laminate (not like me, I had to do my 1st layer again after I noticed how stupid I had been )


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  34. #34
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    When you drill out the end of the crack, don't use a regular drillbit. If you have one, use a dremel with a cutting bit. If you have to use a drillbit, use it backwards and it won't splinter the CF

  35. #35
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    This is what happens when Mendon goes to Redbull rampage and realizes he brought the wrong bike and says fvck it I'm going for it!
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  36. #36
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    Dude, I was hucking HUGE air at the time......

    As for drill bits, yeah, was considering that.

    I don't have a dremel bit like that, but a nice sharp DeWalt one, run backwards, through a pad of Gorilla tape should keep the splintering to a minimum. Thanks for the thoughts on that!

    vmk, that's uuuuuuugly! Mine looks like a flesh wound comparatively!
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  37. #37
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    Diamond sanding/grinding discs for dremel work great with carbon fiber.

    This was done by same guy as the rim above, talking about flesh wounds, it's all relative

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    I am not a carbon expert, but I have worked with aluminum and other metal failures as well as fiberglass. I disagree with several pieces of advice. I don't think you need to drill the end of the crack. If this were an aluminum rim with a similar failure, I would say absolutely since the crack would propagate otherwise. With fiberglass or carbon, I don't think you need to do this.

    The other thing that I question is all of the comments about this being structural. The only aspect that is structural is the spoke hole. I would try and get the manufacture to repair it, since I suspect they would take the spoke out and do it right or just give you a new rim, and if they won't fix it for goodwill, then I would just use a CF patch kit like was recommended, and I bet you never have another problem with it.

  39. #39
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    And add about one psi to the tire.
    I like turtles

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    Or a different tire

    It's amazing to me how different the casings are between lowtech tires like Floaters and a Jumbo Jim. 5psi in a Floater and I'd be on the rim, but 5psi on a JJ and I'd be looking to go lower.

    I hate gear failure, it takes time when I wanna be riding.

    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    And add about one psi to the tire.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    And add about one psi to the tire.
    I'm shocked that a guy would need this much coaching on how to fix this rim. At fat bike pressures, just about anything would work. Heck, spit on it and tape it for running tubeless. But one of the best suggestions is to run a little more pressure in the future.

  42. #42
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    +1 whatever on some fiber epoxy. I used marine JB weld to fix up a little chip in the dropout of a carbon frame and it's been holding for a long time with no hope of spreading.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by litespeedaddict View Post
    Call the manufacturer and tell them you were JRA and ask what their warranty is for JRA's.
    I would suggest that you DO NOT be the A**hole who trys the JRA line. You broke it, and perhaps by being honest you can get something out of them, but feeding them a line of BS is simply not fair, people run businesses in order to earn a living and feed their families. Don't jerk 'em around is my advice.

    bummer about your rim though, hope you get it sorted.

  44. #44
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    ^Thanks^

    But yeah, I'm fairly certain your sarcasm meter should have been red lining on that response. And yes, 30+ years in the industry, I'd sooner own up, than act like an asshat to a manufacturer!

    They got back to me and said they feel it's unsafe, and ought to be replaced. About what I expected to be honest. I have materials incoming, shall make an effort to repair, and will report back with how that all shakes out!

    Alphazz, yeah, I asked for opinions, and input. I'm not a materials expert. I'd rather have an idea of the right way to do it, than do it wrong and wish I'd asked. Sorry if asking for help with things you aren't familiar with isn't in your skill set, and you find that situation cause for derision....
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    Aww man, I was looking forward to seeing how the ghetto repair worked over time.

    Opportunity lost...

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Opportunity lost...
    Que? I should be endeavoring to wander through said ghetto in a few days....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    They got back to me and said they feel it's unsafe, and ought to be replaced. About what I expected to be honest. I have materials incoming, shall make an effort to repair, and will report back with how that all shakes out!
    You're such a rebel!!
    Will there be time to get a Lefty serviced before your demise?


    Unsafe for plodding along at 3mph in 8" of snow where brakes aren't even needed? If it implodes, will there be time to put your foot down or not?
    Critical assessment of all factors made. Course of action decided. Glob that S- on and go.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Aww man, I was looking forward to seeing how the ghetto repair worked over time.

    Opportunity lost...
    i too was curious if a ghetto fix would hold. is the manf. asking for the damaged rim back? Can we "fix" it and see how it holds up? Do you have some extra flesh to put on the line for our curiosity?

  49. #49
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    [QUOTE=sbsbiker;12490397]i too was curious if a ghetto fix would hold. QUOTE]

    Depends on how you define "ghetto". Duct tape or chewing gum might not hold. Super glue or Gflex carefully applied to fully saturate the broken area after it has been pushed back into its original place will very likely hold. A fix with several layers of fiberglass or carbon fiber properly applied will hold for sure.
    Latitude 61

  50. #50
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    Ha! I do have some extra flesh (after this useless, snow free winter!) I'm willing to donate to the cause.

    The kind folks who made it got back to me, and yes, said it was unsafe to ride as is, but also said they'd do crash replacement pricing if I wanted a new rim. They did not ask for it back, no.

    Drew Diller (our resident mad, carbon scientist) got me hooked up with the proper goop, and some carbon scraps he feels are best suited to the job.

    Should be here in a day or two, and I'll be on it shortly thereafter.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  51. #51
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    Now Mendon is going to be able to mod carbon Leftys. Drew gets the first one!
    Latitude 61

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Now Mendon is going to be able to mod carbon Leftys. Drew gets the first one!
    Aw hell no! After this? The one or two carbon Leftys I have on skinnies, will be getting some serious sideways glances from me....

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  53. #53
    vmk
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    I got another rim to fix from same friend (he broke this one on 1st ride with it) that I repaired one previously. This is just to show how big the damage can be, when you start to chase down all the delaminated stuff with a grinder.




    Fixed:
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m..._19_37_Pro.jpg

  54. #54
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    Crazy!

    Just got mine patched up. Held air, worked fine for the maiden voyage, wheel's nice and true still.

    Not holding my breath, but I think this one might work out fine....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  55. #55
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    Nice job - you should post a picture of your patch.

  56. #56
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    Thanks, yeah, should have snapped a pic, but I finished up just before ride time, to it's currently covered in tape, Stans, and a tire!

    If it helps, it was black, sorta shiny, and not terribly exciting to look at.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    So, was out for a ride the other night, a few inches of fresh over frozen ground.

    Running lower pressures than what was likely wise, and hit something pretty hard, unseen. Rock, root, frozen clump of dirt, no idea.

    Never gave it a second thought, till last nights ride, when my tire was flat. Looked for a thorn, popped the tire off, plenty of Stans still in there. Aired it up, held overnight, but was definitely softer by this AM.

    Okay, time to get to the bottom of it.

    Removed the tire, cleaned all the goo up, tire's fine, rim tape all in tact, wait, what's that split in the tape?

    Took the tape off, and found this, ah boo.

    Sent a note to the manufacturer, waiting for their feedback, but thought I'd see what others think. Dead? Retape and ride? Build it up with some resin, and ride?

    Not saying who made the rim, as it's not relevant, and I definitely cased the rim, sh*t happens, I'm just bummed and hoping someone has a bright idea......
    Wow- I've personally been shopping for a set of carbon rims so please let us know who made these and how fast were you going and at what pressures?

  58. #58
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    Pressure was probably ~2.5 maybe less.

    Speed? I don't use and electronics, just don't care, but down hill, and fast enough that in the ~15F air my eyes were watering.

    Brand? They responded in a timely manner, told me what I wanted to know, offered me a killer deal if I want to replace it, and left it up to me.

    This wasn't about brand, it was about what *can* happen, and what could I do about it potentially, short of replacing the rim.

    A couple days and rides in, post repair, things are holding up great.

    As someone said earlier, this was a one in a million situation/hit, not a warrantable issue, or defect, which which I heartily agree.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Pressure was probably ~2.5 maybe less.

    Speed? I don't use and electronics, just don't care, but down hill, and fast enough that in the ~15F air my eyes were watering.

    Brand? They responded in a timely manner, told me what I wanted to know, offered me a killer deal if I want to replace it, and left it up to me.

    This wasn't about brand, it was about what *can* happen, and what could I do about it potentially, short of replacing the rim.

    A couple days and rides in, post repair, things are holding up great.

    As someone said earlier, this was a one in a million situation/hit, not a warrantable issue, or defect, which which I heartily agree.
    Good to know thanks for the info. I probably would never use pressures that low
    What tires?

  60. #60
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    No problem!

    45Nrth VanHelga on the rim in question....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    No problem!

    45Nrth VanHelga on the rim in question....
    Interesting - those VanHelgas look very much like giant Kenda Nevegal Blue Grooves...
    What are the weights of those carbon rims?

  62. #62
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    I've often wondered if Kenda was making them for those guys. They look way too much like a Kenda (in other ways than just tread design), to not be.....

    IIRC, around 500 gms or so for the 65's.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    Good to know thanks for the info. I probably would never use pressures that low
    What tires?
    Never say never. If you actually ride in deep snow, you probably SHOULD use pressures that low.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    If you actually ride in deep snow
    or sand!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    or sand!
    You got me. Fair enough. Sand, too. Haven't ridden enough of it to need to drop my tire pressures THAT low.

  66. #66
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    Out here, we needed to drop it, way low.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carbon rim bummer-bw-dune.jpg  

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

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