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Thread: Brooks saddle

  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    Sep 2011

    Brooks saddle

    Not sure which forum to ask this question. Is winter a bad time to try and break in a new brooks saddle?? Does it really matter what time of year it is??

  2. #2
    Home of the Gravedigger
    Reputation: jkaber's Avatar
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    Nov 2006
    Quote Originally Posted by akclimber49 View Post
    Not sure which forum to ask this question. Is winter a bad time to try and break in a new brooks saddle?? Does it really matter what time of year it is??
    Should be fine.....your backside will keep it warm and supple. Make sure to put some proof hide on the under side too.

  3. #3
    100+ wheel-build club
    Reputation: johnny settle's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
    Your Brooks will be fine, just feed it lots of Proofide, and if its wet out use a cover and be sure it gets dry fast when you're done.
    "Go that way REAL FAST, if something gets in your way... turn".

  4. #4
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    Jan 2008
    Why not. I've been sitting on all kinds of Brooks saddles the last 15 years - all mountainbiking - and I've tried numerous greases and methods. Applying hair dryers, putting the sadlles on radiators, heating the various greases and oils before applying...

    But this is (in my experience) the best way to break them in fast and with quite a durable effect:

    - put your saddle upside down on an old newspaper, several layers worth, outside or in a well-ventilated place (you see why further on...).

    - take your bottle or spray of Ballistol, a multi-function oil that's good for guns, leather, wood and treating minor wounds (it's got desinfectant properties).

    - spray or pour the oil on the inside/underside of the saddle. Repeat until the leather stops absorbing it. This takes quite a while and an amazing amount of "layers", Ballistol is a very light oil and is soaked up really fast. Apply more in the areas where the leather soaks it up like a sponge.

    - by now you'll have noticed why you need a well ventilated room. Ballistol stinks...

    - if your saddle has already been used you can repeat that process from above. But if you spray or rub Ballistol on a new one you'll be slippin' and slidin' the first few rides because a new Brooks has a kind of laquer layer on top. If you put oil on that, it doesn't go into the leather but just greases the laquer finish . The underside is raw, untreated leather which readily absorbs oils.

    - once that top laquer layer is worn off, the leather obsorbs oil from above too without getting very slippery. When new, just saturating it from below is good for months.

    - advantages: the Ballistol saturation renders the leather incredibly supple and waterproof for a long, long time. The breaking-in period is shortened to just a few rides.

    - disadvantages: when applying it, it stinks. Once absorbed, the odour dissapears. When used on brown leather, it darkens it. Take a good look at your nice honey colored Brooks before you treat it, because afterwards it will resemble the color of a well-worn horse saddle.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    broke my swallow ti in during the winter. perfect thing for roller riding.
    sweat and sitting on it for hours on end makes for a quick break in.

    it will be fine.
    never used anything other than a bit of proofide once in awhile on mine.
    get on it, keep it dry from rain / mud / etc.
    especially the underside.

  6. #6
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    Nov 2009
    ive got a swift Ti - just put it on my spinning bike, breaking it in ready for road bike build in Spring

  7. #7
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    Aug 2004
    I have a B17 and it needed no breaking in at all. It has, however, become even more comfortable with a few thousand km use.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
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    Jan 2008
    Quote Originally Posted by daves4mtb View Post
    So is it a bad idea to do this w/ a new saddle?
    No, on the contrary. Just saturate it from the underside up. I never use covers or treat it after a rain & mud ride (and I live in Belgium...). Only repeat the treatment when you start to notice that the sadlle starts to soak up water (and takes some time to dry).
    By then you'll have worn off the laquer finish and you can treat both sides for faster suturation.

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