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  1. #1
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    I know this is a more limited group, but for any/ all Bluto adopters, where are you running your fork? I am having to drop my pressure way below recommended to get any good action out of the fork and get full travel. Even at 75psi, I get 15% sag and the fork feels super stiction-ey. Dropped it down to 65 to try later today. I'm 165- 170 all kitted up, so should be 100+ psi.
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  2. #2
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    Sure, now that I have the thing on order someone posts something negative. I'll be able to join in on this discussion on Saturday (maybe).

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    Ha! Not negative- I've been super happy with it, but I am pretty picky about how my suspension feels. I've still only had it on maybe 4 rides (busy summer plus 2 other bikes that I regularly ride), but it feels stiffer than I want it to, and it looks like I'm only getting about 2/3 of my stroke. I'm going to put some slick honey on the stanchions and have it on a few more rides with lower pressure before I decide to tear it apart. Maybe it just needs to be broken in?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    What kind of trails and riding were you doing that required a lower than recommended type of pressure? Do you consider yourself to a casual rider who prefers soft suspension or an aggressive rider who prefers stiff suspension?


    I rode my bluto for the first time last night, but just around the block a few times.

    It seemed stictiony, but only like a new fork normally does. In my experience, it takes a few rides for fork bushings to loosen.

    Also, turning the compression knob made a surprisingly huge difference in the typical push down on the bars test. Unfortunately I threw away the manual and can't find it online so it isn't clear exactly what that knob does within the fork.

    I had to use slightly more pressure than recommended to get the desired stiffness. Instead of worrying about sag, I normally aim for a pressure that prevents bottoming except when something extreme happens. As the fork breaks in, it'll need some tweaking for sure. But for a starting point, I'm running 105psi for 160 pounds of rider and gear.

  5. #5
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    My normal method of setting up a fork is like yours dfiler, I want to use all the travel when I am riding aggressively and don't want excessive bob when I'm pedaling. I'll start with the recommended psi and work my way to the right spot.

  6. #6
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    dfiler- I'm a pretty aggressive rider. The trails I ride are chunky and techy, dry, Colorado front-range trails. I am pretty savvy to suspension, but this felt more stictiony than I thought- it very well could be that it just needs to break in, but with the fork at recommended PSI and the compression all the way open, it's tough to even compress the fork very far, and, like I said, I am only getting about 60% of my stroke.

    The blue knob is your compression damper. Typically, the damper has oil flowing through it- either in an "open bath" or enclosed "bladder." Either way, the oil/ fluid is flowing through the damper assembly and through various ports. When the blue knob is all the way open (counter clockwise), it's allowing as much fluid to pass through those ports as possible. As you turn the knob clockwise, you are, in essence, closing off those ports, making it harder for the fluid to flow through and thus harder to compress the fork. All the way clockwise is "locked out" (though it will blow through if it needs to on a bigger hit to prevent damage to the fork). FixieDave hypothesized that it could be that some of these ports are clogged, but, again, I'll probably give it a bunch more rides before I take it apart- just wanted to see if anyone else was experiencing similar stuff.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    That's how I would describe compression damping as well. I'm interested in the specific type of valving but not enough to break the fork down before it needs service.

    It will be interesting to see if your fork breaks in at all. I'll report back with my findings as well.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Unfortunately I threw away the manual and can't find it online so it isn't clear exactly what that knob does within the fork.
    https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...to_reba_sm.pdf

    One 2015 Bluto manual

  9. #9
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    if you let all the air out of the fork, can you compress it all the way? It could be overfilled with oil I've had this happen before where a fork is hyrdo-locked by too much fluid - after getting it back from a rebuild.

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    Good suggestions Jisch.

    I'd seen the service manual but was hoping that a user manual might contain additional info on damping/lockout. That service manual also depicts a gate valve which only applies to the Reba.

    The reason for the interest is that there can be a big difference between forks. For example my manitou circus can be run with the compression knob set to lockout without fear of damaging the fork. It has blow off valving. The same is not true for the fox floats I've owned. I destroyed the lockout on a float by forgetting to unlock before sending a medium sized drop.

  11. #11
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    Sounds like you're running too much air.

    Recommended psi's are just that--recommended.

    I weigh 15# more than you and I'm running 15psi less.

    IMO, you need to dump some air before anything else.

    Once the air spring feels right, then you can fiddle with air volume and damper adjustments.

  12. #12
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    I weigh 240 and have 160 lbs of air 3 turns out on rebound and 4 bottomless tokens installed....also have changed to 80mm with an air tube from a SID...I'm also thinking about changing from 5wt to 7.5 just to see what happens

  13. #13
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    I have only ridden my Fatboy with the Bluto around the yard, in my pump track and up and down a few curbs, hopefully I'll get it in the dirt tomorrow.

    At first I kept letting air out because I wasn't getting the travel or the response I was hoping for. I checked the rebound and it was all the way slow (doh!). Speeding it up improved things dramatically - as someone else mentioned, that knob does a lot and when its too slow it prevents the fork from moving through its travel.

  14. #14
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    A few rides on the bluto now... 115psi is working for me (160 pounds with gear). The o-ring shows I've been bottoming it but I haven't felt it behave like it was bottoming.

  15. #15
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    Be sure to play with the air tokens, if you are not getting full travel try removing a token. The more tokens you have in the air side of your fork the more the air spring ramps up through the travel.

    Also if you are really picky about your suspension, you can actually run the RCT3 damper in the Bluto over the stock damper. You will have to play around to find the right oil volumes though.

  16. #16
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    ^Wow- good to know about the RCT3 Damper- I LOVE my Pike. Amazing feel. I took out a token last night. FWIW, there were two installed on a 100mm Bluto. I'll try it out sometime later this week.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  17. #17
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    Is there a way to reduce the 120 Bluto to a 100?

  18. #18
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    It says in the manual you'll need 2 bottomless tokens and buy a new air shaft (part# 11.4018.026.015). Looks pretty straight forward.

  19. #19
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    ^^You could take your air shaft out, send it to me, and I'll send you my 100 shaft.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  20. #20
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    Did my first real ride on my fatboy with the Bluto tonight. On the continuum of incremental to revolution change, it's somewhere in the middle. It was great to charge through rock gardens without worry. Catching air was awesome. Overall I'm very happy, it will take a few more rides to get it dialed. The best part is it didn't mess with the feel if the bike at all, I really didn't notice the weight or anything weird with the geometry.

  21. #21
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    I'm 160 with gear too and I have it at 85psi but only on a few mild rides so far. I also feel like its sticky and not very plush out of the box.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCDKV View Post
    It says in the manual you'll need 2 bottomless tokens and buy a new air shaft (part# 11.4018.026.015). Looks pretty straight forward.
    Yup, very simple swap and it looks like you have someone willing to swap air shafts!

  23. #23
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    So Chris an 80mm Bluto can be changed to 100mm with a new air shaft and tokens? I haven't received my Bluto yet but should be here this week, so I haven"t read the manual yet. Thanks!

  24. #24
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    I ride often at my local trail system, its five minutes from my house and I can get 10 miles of riding in when I don't have time to drive further.

    I run Strava, I have a few KOMs out there, mostly because of the number of times I have ridden everything, sometimes the stars align. There's a nice switchback climb out there that I have been gunning for - today with the Fatboy and the Bluto I got the KOM back.

    Its weird because I really didn't feel like I was going that hard. Is it all because of the Bluto? No way, but at a minimum it didn't hurt my time either. I rode it with my Niner a week ago gunning for the KOM, I felt like I rode way harder than today and I didn't get it.

    All this to say that the Bluto is a good addition to this bike, happy to have it (and all this could be because my phone/Strava glitched too).

  25. #25
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Forged1 View Post
    So Chris an 80mm Bluto can be changed to 100mm with a new air shaft and tokens? I haven't received my Bluto yet but should be here this week, so I haven"t read the manual yet. Thanks!
    The 80mm should come with all 4 tokens so to go from 80-100mm you should only need the longer air shaft and remove 2 tokens. You can download the manual and parts lists from Sram.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCDKV View Post
    The 80mm should come with all 4 tokens so to go from 80-100mm you should only need the longer air shaft and remove 2 tokens. You can download the manual and parts lists from Sram.
    Yep. It is a pretty simple change if you are comfortable taking a fork apart.

  27. #27
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    I have the air shafts that I took out of my 100s if anyone needs one.......just pay to ship

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    I have the air shafts that I took out of my 100s if anyone needs one.......just pay to ship
    I sent you a PM! Cheers!

  29. #29
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    Advice needed, I recentley installed the Bluto fork and after a couple of rides the fork has started loosing air pressure during the ride. It will go from 80 psi to 50 psi and feels very unresponsive. If I air it up it will hold pressure for a while into the ride but then it drops pressure at some point in the ride. Any clue as how to go about fixing this issue? Thanks for any help.

  30. #30
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    I think RS has been known for this problem (I think) Do a search but I remember someone recommended letting all the air out and cycling the fork a few times then pumping it up again. I could be completely wrong and pulling this out of my a$$ but it's worth a shot. Remember when you search that the Bluto is about the same as a Reba so what applies for one might apply to the other.

  31. #31
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    I pick up my fatboy with an 80mm bluto installed by the LBS, who will tune it for my riding style, however, this is hard in a parking lot. Based on the length of the Bluto 80mm, I suspect I should go for minimum sag and probably should have gone 100mm. Regardless, any input is appreciated before I pick it up.
    Thank you,
    FGO

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Father Guzzi Obrian View Post
    I pick up my fatboy with an 80mm bluto installed by the LBS, who will tune it for my riding style, however, this is hard in a parking lot. Based on the length of the Bluto 80mm, I suspect I should go for minimum sag and probably should have gone 100mm. Regardless, any input is appreciated before I pick it up.
    Thank you,
    FGO
    A 80mm with 25% sag is about the exact same a-c as the stock fork. That being said my frame is a 69.8 HT angle at 468mm a-c (which is a 80mm Bluto with 25% sag) and I am running a 100mm Bluto and I love it.

  33. #33
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    I am interested in getting one of these forks what did u use for hubs on these things.

  34. #34
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    Bikeman.com has Hope 150mm front hubs for bluto in stock right now for $111.99 free shipping! Universal cycles has the Hope and salsa specific hub in stock too.

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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    How much is reasonable to get the rim laced

  36. #36
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    I know all the prices, but my LBS who has sold me my Camber and my Roubaix was willing to sharpen their pencil, buy all the bits, install them and then fit me when the install was done. It was a very fair price and they warranty this just like the bike. I really cant complain, I will be riding a fitted, warrantied Bluto for ~$900. Cheaper if I did it myself, but my LBS is two blocks from my house and have exemplary service.... No brainer for me.
    Cheers,
    FGO

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridehard84 View Post
    I am interested in getting one of these forks what did u use for hubs on these things.
    i have the i9 front hub with their adapter kit. my gf has the salsa 150mm hub which doesn't require an adapter but i wanted to keep things matchy so i just got the adapter.

    overall the fork is great. a definite game changer imo. could it feel better...? yeah, i think it could but being the first mass produced fat bike fork i'm pretty stoked on it. i've since sold my niner sir 9 and haven't touched my full susp bikes and now i want a dropper post...

  38. #38
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    I took my Fatboy/Bluto out on a 10 mile ride this morning. The ride was full of intense rock gardens and screaming downhills. I have been reluctant to bring my fat bike on rides like this in the past, the necessity to slow down bugs me - I like going fast. I just put my dropper post back on - so I had a bit of an issue with seat positioning.

    The Bluto definitely made the Fatboy a full bore machine. I found myself able to keep my fingers off the brakes and really crank through the rock gardens. I was leading the ride and had a fast guy with me. I won't say I dropped him (because I didn't), but I was able to keep him behind me without him riding my wheel.

    So I guess I'm changing my earlier statement that it's not a game changer (if I made such a statement), the Bluto is a game changer. It's turned my Fatboy from a fun bike to ride in limited situations, to one that is fun in a lot broader situations.

    Definitely worth the money. So glad to have one on my bike.

  39. #39
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    The best part is it didn't mess with the feel if the bike at all, I really didn't notice the weight or anything weird with the geometry.
    You have the 100mm bluto?

    My wallet curses at your positive bluto reviews.

  40. #40
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    Yes, 100mm, it's only money.

  41. #41
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    I just install a 120mm Bluto on my Fatboy and it is amazing! Glad I didnt go shorter. I need to find a token though, i think it would help. Ive tired a few different pressures and you can blow thru travel easy. I added a token to my Pike and it was a big help so Im hoping 1 or two in the Bluto will do the same.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I took my Fatboy/Bluto out on a 10 mile ride this morning. The ride was full of intense rock gardens and screaming downhills. I have been reluctant to bring my fat bike on rides like this in the past, the necessity to slow down bugs me - I like going fast. I just put my dropper post back on - so I had a bit of an issue with seat positioning.

    The Bluto definitely made the Fatboy a full bore machine. I found myself able to keep my fingers off the brakes and really crank through the rock gardens.

    Definitely worth the money. So glad to have one on my bike.
    My experience on my first big ride Friday is the same!!! roots, rocks, not quite as fast as my FS, but fast... and the fat tires changed the game with grip. and, it just a different kind of fun.

  43. #43
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    Did you check air pressure?

  44. #44
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    Picked up my fatboy with the 80mm bluto, my LBS first install. The manual just addresses install in 50 languages. It is springy, seems limited in both compression and rebound damping and no info provided on what the doodads do. Is their a tuning manual that addresses the Bluto specifically, my LBS did not have one, and I see I am only getting ~2 inches of travel, and it is overly springy. Any suggestions on setup are appreciated, I don't blame my LBS, this is their first install. Thanks for any input.
    Cheers,
    FGO

  45. #45
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    Red compression knob on the bottom of the fork controls how fast the fork rebounds, if its overly springy, turn the knob 3 or 4 clicks slower - there is a LOT of difference between full slow and full fast. If you're not getting full compression - then try letting a little air out, I'm running about 90PSI, I weigh about 170 with my gear on, I get full travel on big hits (though I don't feel the fork bottoming out).

    Those two things interact - so if your rebound is overly slow then you will not get full compression - I had that problem at first until I sped up the rebound.

  46. #46
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    Thanks, I am doing a tuning run tomorrow, I can already tell that with not tuning it is much more capable in the stuff I ride in.
    Thanks for the input, I will report back when I dial it in...

  47. #47
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Couple things to consider. Most fat bike where not designed with a suspension fork in mind. Therefore the head angle could be off and preventing the fork from actually using all the travel.

    I am going to go way back and talk about when suspension forks first came out and people where saying the same thing that you are saying now.

    I have a trek farley and when the designed the bike they designed it with a suspension fork in mind so for me the fork has worked perfect your of the box.

    In the old days we only had 65mm travel forks which worked but when they finally offered 80mm forks it changed the head angle enough to actually make the fork work.

    Ps I could be totally wrong here but some fat bikes just don't have the right head tube angle to allow the fork to work correctly.
    MJ
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Way2ManyBikes View Post
    Couple things to consider. Most fat bike where not designed with a suspension fork in mind. Therefore the head angle could be off and preventing the fork from actually using all the travel.
    ....

    Ps I could be totally wrong here but some fat bikes just don't have the right head tube angle to allow the fork to work correctly.
    What is the "right" head tube angle then?

  49. #49
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Not sure but the Farley has a 70 degree angle and if you read about the bike they built the entire geometry around a suspension fork.

    I was told buy the guys at Trek that they just copied the Geometry off of one of there current 29'r and just widened the rear triangle to make the 3.8 fit and the 4.0 barely fits with a 2x10 drivetrain.

    The Farley has the shortest rear chain stays out of any of the fat bikes which make it support short in its overall length which works great in the tight twisty single track trails.

    With the bluto on my bike it has now become the only bike i ride.

    Today I was forced to take a line I would have never I repeat never considered or even saw as a line but because I was riding faster them I have ever ridden and came up on a jogger it was either hit him or swerve to the right and hope for the best. Which I did and the bluto performed like magic and I didn't even notice all of the tree roots, wash outs and drops going down the hill all I did was aim between the two trees and smile.

    Ps my buddy's 9 Zero 7 works incredible with the 100mm fork even thought specs say it should be an 80
    MJ
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  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I ride often at my local trail system, its five minutes from my house and I can get 10 miles of riding in when I don't have time to drive further.

    I run Strava, I have a few KOMs out there, mostly because of the number of times I have ridden everything, sometimes the stars align. There's a nice switchback climb out there that I have been gunning for - today with the Fatboy and the Bluto I got the KOM back.

    Its weird because I really didn't feel like I was going that hard. Is it all because of the Bluto? No way, but at a minimum it didn't hurt my time either. I rode it with my Niner a week ago gunning for the KOM, I felt like I rode way harder than today and I didn't get it.

    All this to say that the Bluto is a good addition to this bike, happy to have it (and all this could be because my phone/Strava glitched too).
    Switchback climbs/descents are notorious for false start/finish point readings on Strava. It's usually because different levels of the track come too close to each other.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  51. #51
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    Yep, and that could have happened here for sure, never trust strava.

  52. #52
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    125psi and compression damping one click back from locked out... still not stiff enough for my tastes. (160 pounds of rider and gear)

    I'm gonna research adjusting the progressiveness. That's just some spacers right? Any suggestions?

  53. #53
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    The Bluto can use the black 32mm bottomless tokens, but the fork didnt come with any and I'm not sure they are available for sale yet.

    I know on my Pike the Bottomless tokens made a huge difference and I'd love to get 1 or two for the Bluto.
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    Hmmm, there 2014 rockshox spare parts catalog only lists bottomless tokens for the Pike.
    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....pc_rev_a_0.pdf

    But it seems if a token existed for a 32mm stanchion fork, it should work. This article makes it sound like such a token should exist and would work at least for the RS-1, reba, SID and revelation.
    RockShox Officially Introduces The 29er specific RS1 Inverted XC Fork

    I'll contact rockshox and see what they have to say. Edit: Looks like I won't be contacting them since SRAM appears to not want any direct contact with customers. In my opinion, that's a shitty way to run a company.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    A few rides on the bluto now... 115psi is working for me (160 pounds with gear). The o-ring shows I've been bottoming it but I haven't felt it behave like it was bottoming.
    You and I are in the same ball park. I have been surprised how much pressure I need to run to keep the fork from bottoming. I'll eventually try one or two bottomless tokens, but don't have them to try yet.
    I like bikes

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgersib View Post
    You and I are in the same ball park. I have been surprised how much pressure I need to run to keep the fork from bottoming. I'll eventually try one or two bottomless tokens, but don't have them to try yet.
    Yep, and i'm up 10 125psi with it still a bit too easy to bottom. I'll try bumping it up a bit more but tokens (a more progressive spring rate) would be preferable.

  57. #57
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    Do you guys have 100 or 120mm Bluto's? I'm 170 or so with my pack on and I'm at 95PSI. I've maxed the fork out on every ride so far, but I don't notice any dive while pedaling and haven't felt any true bottoming out of the fork. I'm one of those guys who sets and forgets though, so sometimes I change something and I realize just how off I was before. Maybe I'll try adding a bit of air.

    Oh and I'm running a 100mm Bluto.

  58. #58
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    The 32mm tokens wont be available until late August.
    I'm running the 120mm Bluto which doesnt come with any Pre-installed. The 100mm Bluto has 2 pre-installed and the 80mm version has 4, which is the max.

    https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...tokens_eeu.pdf
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  59. #59
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    Converting my 100 to 120 and also thinking of picking up the RCT3 Damper (I'm a suspension snob): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=faqloadcom-20
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    Which bike are you running the bluto on? I'm really interested in this swap too...please keep us posted.

  61. #61
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    ^Specialized Fatboy Comp (medium).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    leaning towards a 100mm for my AL Beargrease, gets me ready for eventual move to bucksaw

  63. #63
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    Okay- got the air shaft to convert my 100 Bluto to 120, plus the RCT3 Damper. Anyone have any info on the conversion? Oil volumes/ weights? The "service manual" link from the SRAM page for the Bluto doesn't even have the Bluto listed on it. Treat it like a SID?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  64. #64
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    I went 20cc less oil than spec with the RTC3, 4 tokens, and 165lbs........I weigh 230

  65. #65
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    20cc less than what? I just found the 2015 service manual and it lists the Bluto and the oil volumes are the same for it as they are for the SID (with the RCT3), so I'm going to follow those levels.

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....chart_2015.pdf

    Any other tips? I haven't worked on a RS fork in a while- pretty straight-forward?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  66. #66
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    20less than stock.......the easiest fork I ever worked on..took about 25 min to change it to an 80 from a 100

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    Is the RTC3 damper worth it as an upgrade? I know upgrading to the Pike damper on my XC32 fork changed the ride and made it a lot better.

  68. #68
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    Go to sram.com click service at top of page click forks then go to page 5 for the newest bluto service manual

  69. #69
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    Worth every penny.......stock bluto felt soft and slow

  70. #70
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    Fat907- what grease did you use on the Air Shaft? I have some Slick Honey, but the manual says only the RS/ SRAM Butter, or some military grease. Seems like for 20 less than stock on the damper side, you could just pull the old damper and insert the new one without changing fluids... For the air shaft, seems like I just need to remove the rebound adjuster knob and lower bolt on non-drive-side, drain oil, remove the lowers, remove the retaining ring, pull the air shaft out, grease up the new one and install the bumper and floating seals from the old one, and re-install, then add fluids. That's it?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  71. #71
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    I bought the grease that they spec.....some military p-800 or something like that ..it's red and very tacky

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Worth every penny.......stock bluto felt soft and slow
    I will have to do this upgrade then. Have a 120mm Bluto coming on Sturgis Bullet, but swapping the Bullet to rigid and putting Bluto onto Bucksaw frame I ordered. :-)

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    I bought the grease that they spec.....some military p-800 or something like that ..it's red and very tacky
    Any idea where you got it?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    20less than stock.......the easiest fork I ever worked on..took about 25 min to change it to an 80 from a 100
    curious why you went down to 80

  75. #75
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    As I understand it, every 10mm increased in fork extension equals ~1 degree decrease in head angle. So working from a 25% sag, compare that Bluto fork length to your stock fork length, consider how increased sag would affect the current feel of your bike, and go from there.

    In my experience, more is not always better, especially when you are adding suspension to a frame that is not suspension corrected. Most fat bikes are not going to be suspension corrected unless they are a fairly new design...

    My Lurch arrives tomorrow, I'm probably swinging toward 80mm, 100mm if I want a little slack.

  76. #76
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    Are the air shafts the same on the Reba and Bluto? I have a 100mm Reba and 120mm Bluto coming and was wondering if I could switch the Reba 10 120mm and the Bluto to 100mm by swapping them?

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    As I understand it, every 10mm increased in fork extension equals ~1 degree decrease in head angle.
    Every 10mm is equal to ~.5 degrees in HA. So 20mm in fork length decreases the HA ~1 degree.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  78. #78
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    I was close

  79. #79
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    Iíve been running the Bluto around Moab for about 2 months. For me a front suspension fork was the one thing really preventing me from riding the fat bike in the dirt more. The Bluto really helps close the gap between just a snow bike and a bike I take on summer trails.
    That said, I think itís one of the worst feeling RS forks Iíve owned. With 90 psi well bellow the recommend pressure for my weight I find itís super stiff and has tons of stiction. When I drop the pressure down to a point it moves on small to moderate size bumps it bottoms outs too easily.

    Iím not very knowledgeable about suspension stuff. For those that are, do people think this is more of an issue related to the damper or rather a lack of lubrication?

    Thanks

    Hereís a picture since this thread is lacking.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bluto Tuning Thread-sticky-fork.jpg  


  80. #80
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    Are you running any tokens? Which Bluto model do you have?

    I have the 120mm and it came stock with no tokens and I blew thru the travel and woudl bottom out hard on bigger drops. I now have two tokens installed and it is perfect. I was able to lower the pressure a bit which gives it even better small bump compliance, but it ramps up quicker and doesnt bottom as easy.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  81. #81
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    I don't even have my Bluto yet and have already ordered these, based on reviews and I weigh 240#.

    Amazon.com : RockShox Pike Bottomless Tokens A1 Qty 3 : Sports & Outdoors

    I may order up the damper as well but the fat bike fund is a little skimpy right now...

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3DZMBT0IIAXRS

  82. #82
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    Those are the Pike tokens and wont fit! You need the black 32mm tokens. I had to order a 5pack thru my LBS.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Those are the Pike tokens and wont fit! You need the black 32mm tokens. I had to order a 5pack thru my LBS.
    You are correct! Pike now has 35mm stanchions so they will not fit. Thankfully Amazon makes returns easy!

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    Running a 100mm Bluto on AL Beargrease for about two weeks now in Maine. Bunch of short rides and one good 25mile day up at Sugarloaf. Running around 85psi which is below recommended, still playing with pressure. Recommended was too stiff.

    Haven't looked inside at the token assortment yet.

    Next to my first set of disc brakes this might be the best bike upgrade ever for me, most likely will end up with a Bucksaw or King Kahn if that comes to production next year.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Iíve been running the Bluto around Moab for about 2 months. For me a front suspension fork was the one thing really preventing me from riding the fat bike in the dirt more. The Bluto really helps close the gap between just a snow bike and a bike I take on summer trails.
    That said, I think itís one of the worst feeling RS forks Iíve owned. With 90 psi well bellow the recommend pressure for my weight I find itís super stiff and has tons of stiction. When I drop the pressure down to a point it moves on small to moderate size bumps it bottoms outs too easily.

    Iím not very knowledgeable about suspension stuff. For those that are, do people think this is more of an issue related to the damper or rather a lack of lubrication?

    Thanks

    Hereís a picture since this thread is lacking.
    Same exact results here Pete!! I'm going to mess with the tokens when I can find some. Not a suspension guru here either.

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    My son's bike has a 100mm Reba on it, I may just steal a token or two out of his for my 120mm Bluto once it gets here. He only weighs 70lbs so doesn't bottom anything out on his Horsethief. ;-) Per the RS chart here, the Reba should have two tokens from the factory -https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...ess_tokens.pdf

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Iíve been running the Bluto around Moab for about 2 months. For me a front suspension fork was the one thing really preventing me from riding the fat bike in the dirt more. The Bluto really helps close the gap between just a snow bike and a bike I take on summer trails.
    That said, I think itís one of the worst feeling RS forks Iíve owned. With 90 psi well bellow the recommend pressure for my weight I find itís super stiff and has tons of stiction. When I drop the pressure down to a point it moves on small to moderate size bumps it bottoms outs too easily.

    Iím not very knowledgeable about suspension stuff. For those that are, do people think this is more of an issue related to the damper or rather a lack of lubrication?

    Thanks

    Hereís a picture since this thread is lacking.
    You've just described every RS fork that I've had in the past. Waiting for Fox...

  88. #88
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    I went to 3 tokens total and that made a nice difference plus I am running a little lower pressure now. Before, 2 tokens and 100psi, now 3 tokens and 75 psi. I weigh 185 pounds and the ride has a nice plush feel without bottoming out easily.

  89. #89
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    Are people finding some of the Blutos are coming with no tokens? Anyone talk to RS or know whether they are supposed to have tokens?

  90. #90
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    I'm 175 or so all loaded up to ride, I run about 95PSI, feels great, I bottom on the biggest hits, but most rides I come back with about 1/4" of travel unused. I don't feel any stiction at all, but that could just be me. I had my fork lose air once, but it seems to be holding now, which is a little weird.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Are people finding some of the Blutos are coming with no tokens? Anyone talk to RS or know whether they are supposed to have tokens?
    80mm = 4 tokens
    100mm = 2 tokens
    120mm = 0 tokens

    At least that is what is supposed to be with them according to manuals found here:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....ess_tokens.pdf

    and here

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....to_reba_sm.pdf

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I had my fork lose air once, but it seems to be holding now, which is a little weird.
    I did as well.

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    Fitted a Bluto to my farley 6 few days ago...seems to be the same as some have found, im 180lbs tried it with recommended psi, and might as well have the ridged fork back on?! now at 85/90 psi seems more like it, but still doesn't seem quite right?

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy586 View Post
    Fitted a Bluto to my farley 6 few days ago...seems to be the same as some have found, im 180lbs tried it with recommended psi, and might as well have the ridged fork back on?! now at 85/90 psi seems more like it, but still doesn't seem quite right?

    What travel fork are you working with? Try adding another token or two depending. I am running the Bluto at 100mm and have three tokens in there to get a great ride from it. I do however find it leaks down air after a ride some times, but only about 15psi. Not sure why the leak down happens as I have taken it apart and everything looks good. I have extra tokens if someone wants 1 or two.

  95. #95
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    The biggest difference was changing from 10wt to 7.5wt.......running 4 tokens and 150 lbs of air...3 clicks out...RTC3

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    Quote Originally Posted by winkster View Post
    What travel fork are you working with? Try adding another token or two depending. I am running the Bluto at 100mm and have three tokens in there to get a great ride from it. I do however find it leaks down air after a ride some times, but only about 15psi. Not sure why the leak down happens as I have taken it apart and everything looks good. I have extra tokens if someone wants 1 or two.
    this ones running at 120mm at the mo... these "tokens" from rockshox spare parts??

  97. #97
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    I ordered mine from my LBS. They come in a 5 pack and are black. I believe they are around $15 for 5. I ended up putting two in my 120mm Bluto (I'm 160 lbs) and it feels really nice.

    The 80mm comes with 4 installed, the 100mm has 2 and the 120 has zero.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

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    I need to get some tokens, my bike w/ Bluto should be here at the end of the month or early November. I am 240# and have the 120mm version coming (on a Moto Sturgis Bullet). I have not found them online anywhere but will be heading to the LBS tomorrow and I will see if he can order me some.
    I have not pulled the trigger on the RTC3 damper yet. Have it sitting in my cart in Amazon debating if my wife will shoot me if I order more parts. Maybe in a couple weeks she will have forgotten?

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    I ordered mine from my LBS. They come in a 5 pack and are black. I believe they are around $15 for 5. I ended up putting two in my 120mm Bluto (I'm 160 lbs) and it feels really nice.

    The 80mm comes with 4 installed, the 100mm has 2 and the 120 has zero.

    Okay just looked into these tokens, ie watched a few rockshox videos on YouTube :-) but I've the opposite problem, in that even though I'm running under pressure for my weight, the resistance still ramps up way to quickly and I'm getting nowhere near full travel ....any thoughts, or anyone else experience this??

  100. #100
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    What size Bluto do you have? If it is 100mm or 80mm you can remove tokens.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

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    its a 120mm...well that's what's stated on the box

  102. #102
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    If anyone still wants to sell a token or two I would be happy to send them some green stuff!!

  103. #103
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    Pm me. I have 3 left over....
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    Do you guys know if I can throw an XX hydro remote lockout off a 2012 SID into my Bluto?

    I am assuming if I can put a RCT3 in there the XX will work too right?

  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by letitsnow View Post
    You've just described every RS fork that I've had in the past. Waiting for Fox...

    Funny, I have never had a good experience with Fox. I think a lot of it comes down to personal preference. RS customer service has always been great. Fox, not terrible, but definitely more trouble and longer waits.

  106. #106
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    Thanks for the info / links. I have tokens and a new damper ordered.

  107. #107
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    Does anyone have a link for the proper rct3 damper that is in stock?

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Does anyone have a link for the proper rct3 damper that is in stock?
    Isn't that the correct one in post 81?
    If not...I think Universal has them

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Isn't that the correct one in post 81?
    If not...I think Universal has them
    Oops sorry it lazy and forgot to look back. I found 2 extra spacers if you need em, you could get them by sat or Friday.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Oops sorry it lazy and forgot to look back. I found 2 extra spacers if you need em, you could get them by sat or Friday.
    Spacers are supposed to be on the way....if not, I will ping you.
    I might just drive to BC to the Race Face HQ and give someone a carbon beating.

  111. #111
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    Not sure if anyone else saw this, but Borealis is sending out all their Bluto equipped bikes with the better damper.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Not sure if anyone else saw this, but Borealis is sending out all their Bluto equipped bikes with the better damper.
    Where did you see this?
    I have a 1/2 built Echo in my basement

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Where did you see this?
    I have a 1/2 built Echo in my basement
    The Borealis fb page.

  114. #114
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    I'll reiterate my earlier posts about how I am not especially sensitive to stuff on my bike, but curious the reason for the upgraded damper? I have no complaints about the one in my Bluto, but now I seem to be thinking there's something wrong? HA!

    I don't notice the Bluto at all, it does its job and I ride. I use all the travel about once every fourth ride, it doesn't bob too much when I stand and hammer, it doesn't pack up on fast hits or dive in big ones, not sure what else I'd be worried about.

    If someone can clue me in, my credit card finger is itchy...

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Yep, and i'm up 10 125psi with it still a bit too easy to bottom. I'll try bumping it up a bit more but tokens (a more progressive spring rate) would be preferable.
    Over two months later, my initial assessment hasn't changed. I'll be going to a local shop to get tokens. That is, unless someone has found an online source.

    Any idea how much converting it from 100 to 120mm would cost?

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I'll reiterate my earlier posts about how I am not especially sensitive to stuff on my bike, but curious the reason for the upgraded damper? I have no complaints about the one in my Bluto, but now I seem to be thinking there's something wrong? HA!

    I don't notice the Bluto at all, it does its job and I ride. I use all the travel about once every fourth ride, it doesn't bob too much when I stand and hammer, it doesn't pack up on fast hits or dive in big ones, not sure what else I'd be worried about.

    If someone can clue me in, my credit card finger is itchy...
    I think many people won't have problems with the reg damper. If its not broke for you, I wouldn't fix it. Read back through the thread and you can see some of the complaints people have.

  117. #117
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    Pete could you sneak into Borealis and get the part number for the damper they are using

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post

    Any idea how much converting it from 100 to 120mm would cost?
    If you can do the work yourself, about $40 for the air shaft.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  119. #119
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    I have no issues with the regular damper, but I did install 2 tokens (120mm model).
    I jump mine quite a bit, hit drops and that and the fork has felt great. I'd really love to see a beefier Bluto though. Use the Pike damper and Stanchions. Maybe a Bluto XL or something.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

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    Universal Cycles has the air shaft for $27, but unless you are buying enough to get free shipping it is probably better to get it locally.

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    Thanks. Think i'll order from them and skip buying more tokens for now. If 120mm stock setup is no tokens and my 100mm version has 2, it might work out perfectly. The new shaft will extend travel and also be more progressive if one or both tokens are left in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Does anyone have a link for the proper rct3 damper that is in stock?
    You may get a RS #11.4015.544.270/280 SID A3 MoCo DNA RCT3 basevalve 2014 and a # 11.4018.025.002 SID A3 midvalve 27,5/29" 2014.

    With some shim stack tuning you will get a decent fork.

    They are in stock in Germany at Gabelprofi.de - Online Ersatzteilkatalog fŁr RockShox und Avid , don't know about the US ...

    - projekt

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToucanLife View Post
    Do you guys know if I can throw an XX hydro remote lockout off a 2012 SID into my Bluto?

    I am assuming if I can put a RCT3 in there the XX will work too right?
    if you put the remote along with the xx damper it should work.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by projekt View Post
    You may get a RS #11.4015.544.270/280 SID A3 MoCo DNA RCT3 basevalve 2014 and a # 11.4018.025.002 SID A3 midvalve 27,5/29" 2014.

    With some shim stack tuning you will get a decent fork.

    They are in stock in Germany at Gabelprofi.de - Online Ersatzteilkatalog fŁr RockShox und Avid , don't know about the US ...

    - projekt
    You are the man!!! I was sitting at my lbs trying to decide which one to order along with the rebound damper and my email went off, perfect timing man thank you.
    Last edited by bdundee; 10-10-2014 at 05:23 PM.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Thanks. Think i'll order from them and skip buying more tokens for now. If 120mm stock setup is no tokens and my 100mm version has 2, it might work out perfectly. The new shaft will extend travel and also be more progressive if one or both tokens are left in.
    Careful with the Universal Cycles ones- skip back a page or so in the thread- their listings are mis-marked. I bought one from them that apparently is the wrong air shaft.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Funny, I have never had a good experience with Fox. I think a lot of it comes down to personal preference. RS customer service has always been great. Fox, not terrible, but definitely more trouble and longer waits.
    I've never had to deal with customer service from either company - just going off of how their forks work on bikes that I've had over the years. I'm sure that they both have good/bad points. Like you said - personal preference...

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Pete could you sneak into Borealis and get the part number for the damper they are using
    I am pretty sure it is QBP part number FK8671 if you want to retrofit your fork. The forks we are shipping with the RCT3 damper at Borealis are coming direct from RockShox already fitted with the RCT3 damper and also the dig valve. This is an OE only option so unfortunately you can not order a Bluto set up this way. I am only about 90% sure of the part number though, I am the wheel guy and far from a suspension guy. I do know oil volumes change slightly as well but I am not sure of exactly how much. Slowerthansnot has swapped a lot of these and is our main fork guy so he might know off the top of his head.

    I would like to clarify, ONLY the XX1 builds are shipping with RCT3 forks, I will copy and paste the facebook post below.

    "Since all of us here at Borealis want you riding on the best of the best products, we are excited to announce that all XX1 Echo bikes will now come stock with the upgraded RCT3 damper for the Rockshox Bluto fork!

    There will be NO price increase for this, and we guarantee you that you will notice an extremely improved ride quality with this high quality damper. Enjoy, fat bikers!!"

    "this does include the RCT3 damper AND the Dig Valve from RockShox. https://www.sram.com/rockshox/technologies/dig-valve"

    Hope this helps!

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by chriskmurray View Post
    I am pretty sure it is QBP part number FK8671 if you want to retrofit your fork. The forks we are shipping with the RCT3 damper at Borealis are coming direct from RockShox already fitted with the RCT3 damper and also the dig valve. This is an OE only option so unfortunately you can not order a Bluto set up this way. I am only about 90% sure of the part number though, I am the wheel guy and far from a suspension guy.
    Oh crap I ordered the the fk8670 per the other dude but I did order a new rebound damper that matches it so maybe that combo is good to go anyways.

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Oh crap I ordered the the fk8670 per the other dude but I did order a new rebound damper that matches it so maybe that combo is good to go anyways.
    hmmm, I honestly have no idea what the difference between the two would be but again, I am not a suspension guy.

    I would not be surprised if both work fine though.

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  131. #131
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    My .02 on how to make the bluto awesome

    Your mileage may very on what frame/bike you are running in on.... and as a fyi i'm 6'3" about 200lbs and i've only ridden the bluto on a borrealis echo and Rocky Mtn blizzard...

    I think the stock grease has tons of drag so i like running slick honey.

    think the 100mm air shaft and travel is best suited to the 32mm stations.

    The rct3 damper is an improvement over the RL damper but more so is the dig valve on the lover damping rod and seems to have a wider adjustment over the rl valve...

    on the air side i really like 3 tokens and being on the low side of the air pressures recommended by RS ....

    At some point i'd really like to get my hands on a old school u-turn spring for shits and giggles to ditch the air side and not have to worry about loosing air in the cold temps
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  132. #132
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    Thanks, I'm going to try the Slick Honey for sure when I take it apart to change both dampers. Also I'm only about 15 pounds lighter and I am really liking the three tokens in the 100mm as well.

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Thanks for the link!

    I also am a big fan of 3 air tokens but I tend to run pressures on the high side of the official recommendations but that is coming from about 3 years riding almost only rigid.

  134. #134
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    I'm going from 80mm to 120mm this weekend, I weigh 190 and tend to carry some gear for overnighting. Any suggestions on number of air tokens I should go with. I don't like to run to high of pressure, but with adding 40mm, I don't know what to expect on my fatboy.
    Thanks,

  135. #135
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    Well I switched to the rct3 damper and the new rebound damper and lovin it kinda. The slick honey on the air side sure seemed to get rid of any stiction so that is a must. Like stated about the rct3 function is meh but the combination of the damper and new rebound damper seem pretty sweet. The only thing is my lockout still sucks poo, maybe even worse that it was. It is so much easier to check and get an accurate sag measurement now, pretty butter smooth. Trail testing to come.
    Last edited by bdundee; 10-16-2014 at 05:37 AM.

  136. #136
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    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best

  137. #137
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    from those on here more expert than I what can I expect about winter performance from my new Bluto? I've heard everything from you cannot use it in winter and have to get a second fork to it will be fine, to you have to make modifications so it will work in the cold. What is the truth or do we wait until cold comes and find out?

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best
    OK thanks I have had the damper out twice now to see if there was something wrong, I will stop and ride now

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by ishpeming View Post
    from those on here more expert than I what can I expect about winter performance from my new Bluto? I've heard everything from you cannot use it in winter and have to get a second fork to it will be fine, to you have to make modifications so it will work in the cold. What is the truth or do we wait until cold comes and find out?
    I'm certainly no expert but I'll add my .02 cents to this.

    It will absolutely depend on where you live, the type of winter riding you do and the type of winter your area of the world is having. In other words everyone is going to have a different opinion/need/objective/use for their Bluto.

    If your winters are mild and you envision hitting the same sort of trails you would in the summer, then leave it as is.

    If your winters are cold and your hitting the rough stuff then at the very least change the shock oil to a lower viscosity.

    If your just doing relatively light trails, commuting, or winter bike-packing then perhaps a rigid fork is all you really need and you wont be exposing your Bluto to road salt/sand/dirty slush.

    Bottom line is there won't be a right or wrong answer, but there will be plenty of opinions. You said it yourself "wait until the cold comes and find out". At least you know you have some options.

    Good luck.

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    ^^That was a whole lotta typing just to say " I don't know"

    Bottom line.....there are millions of regular Rock Shox suspension forks used during the winter.
    None have exploded in a ball of flames.
    And the planet is still spinning.
    I would bet money the Blutos will be just fine with winter....just fine

  141. #141
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    I've been riding through the winter here in Connecticut (NE USA) for 20+ years on all brands of forks. I would love to say that none had issues, there were some early elastomer based shocks that turn to rocks in the winter. I've had air seals let go from the cold too, but things are definitely better now than they used to be. Once you get below 0F things start to get funky, but that's a rarity around here.

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best
    That's because it's more of a heavy blow off valve than it is a true lock out.

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best
    So I had to just take it apart one more time..... Well in the RS 2015 pdf they say it takes 106ml of oil or 71mm down from the top of the crown, in my fork at least those two do not even come close to being the same. I added oil and brought it up to the 71mm and everything is working sweet now. I get full travel, the lockout works, the low speed compression makes a difference, and I can tell a difference in platforms. The only thing is I ended up adding at least another 45ml of oil or more (didn't keep track on the exact amount) and that is a lot. I did call rs and he is going to talk to some service people and see what they say and get back to me, I hope.

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    So I had to just take it apart one more time..... Well in the RS 2015 pdf they say it takes 106ml of oil or 71mm down from the top of the crown, in my fork at least those two do not even come close to being the same. I added oil and brought it up to the 71mm and everything is working sweet now. I get full travel, the lockout works, the low speed compression makes a difference, and I can tell a difference in platforms. The only thing is I ended up adding at least another 45ml of oil or more (didn't keep track on the exact amount) and that is a lot. I did call rs and he is going to talk to some service people and see what they say and get back to me, I hope.
    Thats what i would have done if lockout wasnt working =)
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  145. #145
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    Guess it will come apart ONE more time...lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Guess it will come apart ONE more time...lol
    Keep me posted of your findings.

    One thing I learned is never test it before both knobs are fully installed and the little black nut thingie is tightened. The low speed compression will shoot straight out and one will be looking for a spring and a couple of very small ball bearings

  147. #147
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    bdundee....did you check the oil level before you took it apart to change dampers?
    This is the first fork I haven't taken apart before riding.
    Almost every new fork I've ever taken apart had too little ( sometimes none!) or too much oil....among other surprises

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    bdundee....did you check the oil level before you took it apart to change dampers?
    This is the first fork I haven't taken apart before riding.
    Almost every new fork I've ever taken apart had too little ( sometimes none!) or too much oil....among other surprises
    No but sure wished I would have.

  149. #149
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    Hmmm....I got my first real ride in. I have some sort of rattleup front.
    Sounds like a loose headset...but the headset is tight
    Wondering if it's something loose in the fork.
    Or...is the carbon frame amplifying a rattle from somewhere else

  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Hmmm....I got my first real ride in. I have some sort of rattleup front.
    Sounds like a loose headset...but the headset is tight
    Wondering if it's something loose in the fork.
    Or...is the carbon frame amplifying a rattle from somewhere else
    loose maxle? brake caliper?
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  151. #151
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    Oh and SlowerThenSnot you where spot on with getting rid of that red grease crap and using slick honey, so much smoother now!!

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    Where do you apply the Slick Honey? I assume to just the piston on the air shaft but I'm not sure. Thanks.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coneheadthebarbituit View Post
    Where do you apply the Slick Honey? I assume to just the piston on the air shaft but I'm not sure. Thanks.
    I lubed up the whole air shaft, the piston, and just a little on top of the piston for good measures

  154. #154
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    Ok boys - I put the XX hydro lockout damper on - loving it! Feels a bit better

    Is there an upgraded rebound damper available as well?

    Would I just order the 2014 SID rebound damper or will that be the same part? 26" or the 27/29"?

  155. #155
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    I contacted my LBS about doing this mod to my Bluto, parts & labor quote is $225.

    I am considering DIY, but I have never taken a fork apart, ever. So I'm more than a bit apprehensive about screwing it up. Fair price or do you think I should give it a shot?

    Any special tools required?

  156. #156
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    Lu-Max, Exactly what mods were quoted at your LBS. This thread has mentioned several. Thank you

  157. #157
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    Not sure why you guys are running such low pressure

    I'm 120mm with 1 token - 175lbs - running 110psi with 15% sag and using 90% of my travel on a single track ride with no jumps

    I also have an XX remote lockout on it which may help as the cartridge is different even in open mode - I checked my oil levels and they were to spec

    I set my air pressure to 80psi at the start since I read here people were having issues - and I could bottom it out in my driveway - this fork is using the same air pressure as my SID WC

    After some slick honey on the seals - this fork is buttery smooth - smoother than my SID
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  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by broadwayline View Post
    Not sure why you guys are running such low pressure

    I'm 120mm with 1 token - 175lbs - running 110psi with 15% sag and using 90% of my travel on a single track ride with no jumps
    About the same as I was running (120 psi @ 185# and 10% sag) I would use all my travel on jumps but the small bump compliance sucked poo so I tried lowering it as well and it didn't work for me either. Since the new compression, rebound damper, and the slick honey same psi but the sag went to 20%, still no real trail time but initial tests are good.

  159. #159
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    Oh now I am confused on what to get - the XX remote lockout damper or the RCT3? I have the RCT3 damper already in my Amazon cart but now I am thinking XX???

    I am 240# and want to add a couple tokens to my 120mm Bluto also.

  160. #160
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    I'm not a big remote lockout fan. I like having the ability to add a few clicks of damping over full open or full lock. I'm on the stock RL and I'll lock it out on the pavement, run it in the middle for rolling terrain and go full open on the rougher stuff.
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  161. #161
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    Swapping to 7.5wt oil tonight in my 120mm with RCT3 compression damper - will report back how much it helps
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  162. #162
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    When I first did the swap I put 20cc less oil but have since went back to stock height while using the 7.5........... I really like the change

  163. #163
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    -5 degrees celcius and can feel my SID rct 3 stiffening up both slow compression/ rebound. I put my money on Bluto not working when temps dip below -30 without fluid mods

  164. #164
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    7.5wt made a huge difference for me - had to add 1 click of rebound to account for it but its smooth as butter in -1*C

    Small bump compliance improved a lot
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  165. #165
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    It was the best change I made........better than RCT3 even .....now play with the amount of tokens

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    Perhaps these forks valving work totally different than snowmobile shocks (which I am very familiar with as far as tuning) but normally in a snowmobile shock a change to the weight of the oil only has a noticeable feel difference to the rebound as shock speeds are much less during the rebound stroke. Is this the type of change you noticed Fat907? Also, I read somewhere that Salsa doesn't advise changing from the 100mm to the 120mm. Why would this be? I'm new to all this bike suspension stuff. Thanks.

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    It was the best change I made........better than RCT3 even .....now play with the amount of tokens
    Did you ever get the lockout to work?

  168. #168
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    Lockout works....but not a true lockout,it still moves about 4 or 5mm...it got noticeably smoother with the 7.5, it goes thru the travel more easily..but that could be from the slick honey....I did both mods at the same time.....RCT3 was the first mod other than changing to the 80mm SID air shaft...rebound is quicker but not boingy ...I'm 3 clicks out and 4 tokens.......230lbs

  169. #169
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    I am going to hold off on ordering the RCT3 damper - the bike budget is pretty well toasted until next year if I don't want to end up a 40something single. ;-)

    I did order a set of bottomless tokens. I got to ride my Bluto tonight and I didn't have any problems with it. Granted the biggest bump I hit was off a curb (riding in parking lot at work - my Sturgis Bullet came today!).

  170. #170
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    Just did the air shaft last night, moving mine from 100 to 120. I did the RCT3 Damper a week or two ago, but I'm currently without cranks, so I haven't had it out. When doing the air shaft last night, I opted for 10wt oil- heard some of you doing 7.5, and they recommended 15, so I split the difference . Now, I'm wondering, you guys are talking about 7.5 in the upper with the damper, aren't you? I was surprised that it's only 5ml of fluid in both lowers and would be amazed if the weight of the fluid made much of a difference down there. Also used Slick Honey instead of the military grease. I'm 175 kitted up and couldn't get the fork to sag much (looking for about 20+%) without dropping it to below 100psi. Still, it will be a bit before I get the bike back together, and now it's cold, so I imagine I won't be able to pick up on subtle changes much other than how it affects geometry.

    One of the easiest forks I've ever worked on.
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  171. #171
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    I've never had any type of suspension before and am looking at a Bluto for a friend. He's 230#, 6'3" and it's going on a 20" Chinese carbon frame.

    Which Bluto would you recommend? After reading this thread it looks as if most folks are having success by switching dampers, adding magical tokens, stealing Poo's honey, and lowering viscosity. I'll suggest those fixes later if he doesn't like the performance. Until then, for his body size, what's gonna be best for him (80, 100, or 120)?

  172. #172
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    Recommended is 106ml of 5wt in the uppers and 10ml of 15wt in the bottom........we are changing to 7.5 instead of the 5wt....bottom stays the same

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Recommended is 106ml of 5wt in the uppers and 10ml of 15wt in the bottom........we are changing to 7.5 instead of the 5wt....bottom stays the same
    The chart actually says 5ml 15wt in each lower or are you just saying total?

  174. #174
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    Total.....my bad

  175. #175
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    Huh. I guess I figured you guys were going to lower viscosity, not higher. When I swapped out my damper to the RCT3, I used the 106ml of 5wt that was recommended. In the lowers, 5ml of 10wt (instead of 15wt). Slick Honey on the lowers and on the air shaft instead of the red military grease. It's been super cold, so hard to know exactly how it will feel in warmer temps, but so far, it feels WAY better than it did at 100/ stock setup. I also pulled out the one token that was in there, but may end up putting that back in to keep the psi a little lower and small bump sensitivity up, while not blowing through travel on bigger hits.
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  176. #176
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    Rode my 21lb Jet9 RDO ther other night - the Bluto with RCT3 / 7.5wt at 120mm is SO MUCH SMOOTHER than my WC SID at 100mm

    It made my Jet that is normally super cushy feel like a buck board in comparison

    Big difference over the stock Bluto as you can imagine - small bump is super cushy

    Next thing is replace the stock red air shaft grease with some slick honey
    www.abikeslife.com ontario bike stuff!

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  177. #177
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    I ended up with a new fork, changed out to the nicer damper and it felt better, but still had the feeling it was way too stiff when I pumped it up to a pressure where it wouldn't bottom out. Added 2 tokens for a total of 4 and that made a huge difference. Can run it at 85 psi and no bottom out.

    I have no real conclusion on the best way to tune this fork, but I think I would start with adding tokens and additional lube to the lowers before dropping the money on the damper.

  178. #178
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    How's everyone doing with temps below freezing?

    My fork seems to be getting stuck down on the cold rides...

  179. #179
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    Slick honey..........works like magic

  180. #180
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    Do you have to remove the lowers to add tokens and replace the red grease with Slick-Honey on the air side or can you just do it from the top of the air side?

    If just doing these, Does the travel stay the same (120)

    Thanks

  181. #181
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    Not to add tokens but yes for the grease.....no travel change

  182. #182
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    Drain off air and unscrew non-drive side top to add/remove token (24 mm socket, quick & easy). Change of damper is the same except its the drive side top that simply needs to be unscrewed (24mm socket, quick & easy)

    You'll need to disassemble fork to get to air shaft (non drive side) and clean military grease off air shaft & piston. You'll need to disassemble fork to get to any rebound damping changes (drive side).

  183. #183
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    I have a 120mm Bluto which came with a lockout lever. I have replaced the cable three times as it slips on me mid ride and the little set screw has crushed the cable. Its weird that if you release the cable it spins to locked out instead of wide open.

    Anyway, my question is can I get the simpler blue compression adjuster knob instead and lose the silly lockout lever and drive side top cap altogether? anyone know the part number?

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    I have a 120mm Bluto which came with a lockout lever. I have replaced the cable three times as it slips on me mid ride and the little set screw has crushed the cable. Its weird that if you release the cable it spins to locked out instead of wide open.

    Anyway, my question is can I get the simpler blue compression adjuster knob instead and lose the silly lockout lever and drive side top cap altogether? anyone know the part number?
    I do not know the part numbers, but you could get the upgraded damper listed above - the part numbers are listed. Or I could swap you mine- I have two Bluto forks and kind of want to try the remote lockout on one, but given the problems you are having maybe I don't want to try it. :-)

    Three bottomless tokens seems to be right for me - at 122or so PSI I am really liking the way it rides. I have some slick honey but will probably wait to do that until I do my spring tear down. I may do it sooner if I have any problems with it sticking in the cold but did 30 miles of single track this weekend in sub freezing temps and had no problems at all (other than cold toes). :-)

  185. #185
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    Lockout question

    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    I do not know the part numbers, but you could get the upgraded damper listed above - the part numbers are listed. Or I could swap you mine- I have two Bluto forks and kind of want to try the remote lockout on one, but given the problems you are having maybe I don't want to try it. :-)

    Three bottomless tokens seems to be right for me - at 122or so PSI I am really liking the way it rides. I have some slick honey but will probably wait to do that until I do my spring tear down. I may do it sooner if I have any problems with it sticking in the cold but did 30 miles of single track this weekend in sub freezing temps and had no problems at all (other than cold toes). :-)
    Do any of you guys with the remote lockout have an issue with it not quite locking out completely? When mine is locked, with cable disconnected(lockout knob sprung to locked position)it out it still moves quite a bit, 30mm just with my weight(180lbs)seated. Air pressure is correct. Maybe they are just this way?

  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by prebonked View Post
    Do any of you guys with the remote lockout have an issue with it not quite locking out completely? When mine is locked, with cable disconnected(lockout knob sprung to locked position)it out it still moves quite a bit, 30mm just with my weight(180lbs)seated. Air pressure is correct. Maybe they are just this way?
    If you have that much movement....the first thing I would check is oil levels.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    If you have that much movement....the first thing I would check is oil levels.
    Yup this ^^^^ on the damper side.

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Yup this ^^^^ on the damper side.
    I think ^^^this guy^^^^ gives good details earlier in the thread.
    Or maybe it was a different thread. I'm too lazy to look.

  189. #189
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    Just for posterity's sake, I'm running my Bluto at 120 with the RCT3 damper, Slick Honey and NO air tokens inside. I'm about 175 kitted up and I have it set at factory psi (can't remember right now). I have the compression dialed all the way back/ open and rebound up 3/4 way (towards fast), and when the lockout is open, I just about get full travel and the fork feels quite good (for what it is).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  190. #190
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    Which is the right setting to use for oil? The oil level height or the amount used?

  191. #191
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    Quick question/test for Bluto owners.

    Do you hear a click when you compress/uncompress your fork?

    The test:
    -get off the bike
    -compress the front fork by pressing on the handlebars
    -let the fork rebound and listen for a click once the fork is completely uncompressed

    It might be easier to reproduce with the rebound speed set to the fastest setting. My fork makes an audible 'click' sound every time. I'm wondering what the clicking is and if it's a problem that I should have checked out.

    Thanks.

    EDIT: WAS THE STEM. FALSE ALARM.
    Last edited by Aceldama; 12-19-2014 at 03:29 PM. Reason: Updated information

  192. #192
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    Adding a quick and crappy video of the clicking sound:


  193. #193
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    I'm loving my Bluto so far, but I really hope Rockshox releases a "Pluto" fork. A Bluto but with Pike size stanchions and internals!
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  194. #194
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Aceldama View Post
    Quick question/test for Bluto owners.

    Do you hear a click when you compress/uncompress your fork?

    The test:
    -get off the bike
    -compress the front fork by pressing on the handlebars
    -let the fork rebound and listen for a click once the fork is completely uncompressed

    It might be easier to reproduce with the rebound speed set to the fastest setting. My fork makes an audible 'click' sound every time. I'm wondering what the clicking is and if it's a problem that I should have checked out.

    Thanks.
    I don't have that click. Been riding BLUTO since July.

  195. #195
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    I called my shop and they're going to contact SRAM about it and get back to me.

  196. #196
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    Update to my 'issue'. It was the stem, I'm an idiot... carry on...

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aceldama View Post
    Update to my 'issue'. It was the stem, I'm an idiot... carry on...
    This is why I drink, it gives me a good reason for being a screw up.

  198. #198
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    Good idea...

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    This is why I drink, it gives me a good reason for being a screw up.
    Better a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy......
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  200. #200
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    anyone got an extra token or two they want to sell me? pm if so..

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