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  1. #301
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    This one mentioned by "evasive" post #249
    https://missoulian.com/news/local/si...feaccdab7.html

  2. #302
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    That is what we use now at Cuyuna.

    https://youtu.be/p7GA-EDW3e0

    https://youtu.be/Yt3TlGGABgc

  3. #303
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    Took Delivery of my winter camo Snow Dog Standard with reverse yesterday ! Thanks for everyoneís input here. Did the minor setup required, checked the oil and fired it up for a test run. Set out to groom the short test loop behind my shop. On my second lap I tipped the machine over on its right side and it quit running. After righting the machine it wonít start. It did leak out a small amount of oil.
    I can rotate the driving pulley by hand 2-3 revolutions and then it binds up. The electric start will move it the same amount and then binds and stops.

    Has this ever happened to anyone one else ?

    Any suggestions on what mightíve happened to my machine and what I can do to fix it ?

    Is it okay to tow back from the rear of the machine?

    Any help will be greatly appreciated


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  4. #304
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    Took this before I tipped it over and the fun ended


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  5. #305
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    That looks smooth and fast, CycleKrieg. Can you compare it to Snowdog?

  6. #306
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    It is a SnowDog, Dawg


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  7. #307
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    Railntrail:
    Pull the spark plug (s) and then try cranking again. You may have had oil/fuel in the cylinder causing the engine to hydraulically lock due to laying on its side.

    Crank it repeatedly if something spurts out. Assuming the plug is wet, clean the combustion side of the plug with a propane torch or just replace it.

  8. #308
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    Thanks Mikbur ! I was just gonna head out to give that a try based on the same advice from another mechanic friend of mine


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  9. #309
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    Got the Sled Dog running again. Hydraulic locking of the cylinder was the culprit due to my laying it over on the right side. Thanks once again thanks to Mikbur, his diagnosis and
    recommended solution was spot on



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  10. #310
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    Day number 2 of grooming with the Sled Dog ... getting better with the Body English. Off camber side hills are a bitch. Used a shovel in places to level the trail tread which helped to keep the machine on track. Moved the handle bar set up from the middle hole to the lower hole which raised the handle bars and gives a better fulcrum and improved maneuverability. Iím ready to try some of Fenalsonís modifications to moving the handle bars up and forward. I had a easier time grooming uphill than down hill.
    I would like to add a front bumper/grab rail like snowmobileís have in order to lift or reposition the front of the machine.


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  11. #311
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    railntrail I love all the mods I have done to my machine, but I think the most important mod in helping to keep this machine upright is that new hitch. Good luck.

  12. #312
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    I can thoroughly see how the square tube hitch with its mid chassis mount would be a big benefit. I will be contacting my local fabricator this week.

    Have you ever felt like there was too much flex in the arms of the handle bar set up ?

    Fabricator : someone who makes
    Stuff you canít


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  13. #313
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    Most definitely on the flexy bars. We will be addressing that also.

  14. #314
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    Great ! Let us all know what you come up with. I noticed the best track sled used a square tube setup.


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  15. #315
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    We plan to stay with round tubing. We will start from scratch, using larger diameter, better quality tubing. We will of course share it when we build it.

  16. #316
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    I cannot speak to grooming with a Snowdog but have a ton of experience with a Best Tracksled now. We have found that operating it with the handlebars low is way better because it separates the right/left steering motion (yaw) from the camber motion (roll). When the handlebars are up high, if the sled is on a sidehill or non-level surface the motion to steer the tracksled right/left can counteract the force/motion needed to keep the vehicle fairly upright.

    This also leads to what we have found to be the best way to steer it. Steering on flat ground is pretty tough because all of the force required to steer it has to come from you overcoming the friction between the belt and snow. Because of that we try to bank the corners as much as possible. You basically steer the tracksled to the outside of the corner, and weight the inside grip (pushing down). The tracksled hit the outside of the corner and then wants to "fall" into the corner using its weight to turn sideways. While you are doing that motion with the tracksled, you step to the inside of the grooming pan which banks it enough that it carves around the corner leaving a banked surface for people to ride on through the corner. It is way less effort to steer the tracksled and the finished product it a lot more fun to ride.

    I am guessing that a key piece in all of the above is the pan we use to groom the snow. We use a smaller pan (probably 1.5 sq ft area total) with an upturned front. Depending on where you put your weight on the pan allows you to change the camber of the trail, renovate hard snow or float on fresh snow. I have not run into a better solution for the actual grooming of the snow. Step towards the front of the pan and it cuts into the snow and can take out ruts, footprints... If you stand on one side or the other it allows you to bank corners and change the camber of the trail. Combine moving forward and back with right to left and you can choose how much you change the camber with the pan.

    Not sure of I posted this before (sorry if I did) but here is a video I made a couple a couple years ago while grooming. You very likely don't want to watch it all but the section from around 3-4 minutes shows some of the footwork, the angle of the handlebars... that I tried to describe above: https://youtu.be/hdset_NQGu8

    You can see pics of the grooming pan and tracksled at: https://fat-bike.com/2017/03/best-tr...l-impressions/

  17. #317
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    Day number 4 grooming with the Snow Dog, spring like conditions. Trying to get my trail tread in place for the next storm. Iíve taken to doing a little shovel work on the off camber side hills in a preventive effort to keep the Dawg from tipping over or running down hill. A 1 x 2 square tube hitch is in the works


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