Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .

    . . . here's one more.

    My implementation of the Planet Bike Cascadia 29er split fender deal. Shameless copy of what I thought was a very ingeneous and cool idea here, with a twist here. Thanks guys, for the inspiration.

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-fp2-001.jpg

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-fp2-002.jpg

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-fp2-003.jpg

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-fp2-004.jpg

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-fp2-005.jpg

    My cost was probably 80 to 90 bucks, all up. Weights are 1.06 lb/480 g front, 1.38 lb/625 g rear. So 2-1/2 lbs/1100 g total. Not the cheapest or lightest, but hey with fat, you wanna play you gotta pay. They're easy on-easy off and I'm glad to have a fender option for mucking around in the slop.

    The only thing I'm a little disappointed in is the color - I went with the one rattle-can orange that was available at the hardware store I stopped at. My theory was that all oranges play well together, but after it was all put together, I have to say that the theory is bogus. So I will probably be re-painting when I get the next shot of time and enthusiasm. Maybe I'll ditch the orange altogether and do white, to tie in with the frame decals. Holy hell, until I bought this bike, I never knew how many shades of orange there are. It's ridiculous.

    On the whole, bike is 38 lbs just as shown. 35 in strip-down MTB mode, without the fenders and battery light.

    Mind-numbing fabrication details here and here, for anyone who's interested.

    OT, I dig the new moonlander ad on the right sidebar.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
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    I like it
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57ļ36' Highlands, Scotland

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Weights are 1.06 lb/480 g front, 1.38 lb/625 g rear. So 2-1/2 lbs/1100 g total. Not the cheapest or lightest, but hey with fat, you wanna play you gotta pay.
    On a side note, it's interesting how much additional bike accessories and gear can add weight, and on the other hand there are some alternatives to save weight. Imagine a Pugsley with Surly racks, undrilled Marge DH rims, Alfine gears, PB modified fenders etc. versus 907 with Revolution Adventure Pannier Racks (much lighter), drilled rims, normal gears and lightweight fenders. Between those two there is certainly difference on the feeling and handling of the bike.
    "Cycling is not the whole life, it's much more."
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  4. #4
    It aint gonna ride itself
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    Mind-numbing fabrication details here and here, for anyone who's interested.
    FWIW, I thought they were great. Looks like they are really well-thought-out and that you have a knack for craftsmanship. Well done, I say.

    As for the color, oranges can be a real ***** to match, so don't feel bad. Plus, since you used screws to assemble them, changing it wouldn't be the worst experience...

  5. #5
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    Well done!!

  6. #6
    ride more
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    looks good

  7. #7
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    Probably the best and most durable looking set I've seen. Nice work!

  8. #8
    M8 M12 M15 deez nuts
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    Wow those are nice fenders!
    Donít frail and blow if youíre going to Braille and Flow.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the compliments. I got out on a short trail ride tonight and was encouraged by how "un-rattley" they were. I set them way farther off the tire than I would with a fender on a "normal" bike to give them clearance for some muck, but still thinking they'll load up pretty fast if I get into sticky snow. So I'm thinking they'll not belong on the bike at all times, but that I'll love em to death in certain kinds of slop.

    But I'd like to quit theorizing and do some actual field verification. Sure could use a some white stuff here in Spokane.

  10. #10
    Chad
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    Inspired and Motivated......

    So my Moonlander is going to be "on the way" Monday. I've got my bags on the way already. Now on to the fenders. With the same 29er fenders you have in hand, I have a few thoughts that might lead to improvements. What do you think about plain sheet gutter aluminum?( before shaping) I've got a roll of black, 10" wide and the ability to cut it at any width and length. I'd also use aluminum rivets to save a bit of weight. What about calking the seams before clamping?

    I'm open to ideas or input.

    Best--Chad

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    ...but still thinking they'll load up pretty fast if I get into sticky snow...
    Polish the undersides with silicone car polish. I'm going to do it with mine.

    I discovered this when I tried to to stop snow sticking to my snow shovel and not separating. It works.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57ļ36' Highlands, Scotland

  12. #12
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    Luthar, the aluminum I used is .032 and the strip I used for my front fender weighs .22 lb including paint, while the rear weighs .44 lb. Yours will be a little wider on the Moonlander, so a little more material. Not sure what thickness your material is, but according to this site, you'd be in the same ballpark. Personally, I wouldn't want to go much thinner than what I've got, because after having used them on a few rides now, I wouldn't want any less strength.

    The fasteners I used for attaching the aluminum to the plastic fender halves weighs 2.6 oz, combined front and rear. Others have used aluminum rivets and I'm sure they work fine. You could save a bit of weight, but as you can see, there's not a ton to be saved. I went with the black oxide stainless screws for aesthetic reasons and because I wanted them to be removable/reusable. It's just a matter of preference and cost - rivets would be less expensive.

    As for caulking, I'm not sure what the purpose would be. There's no need to make the joint water tight - a fender is just a spash guard. And if you ever have to take things apart for some reason, the caulk would be a mess to deal with.

    Velobike, great idea with the wax. I'll definitely put a coat on mine.

    As for the clash of the oranges, it was bugga-bugga-buggin. Had to re-do the colors. I'm feeling much better now.

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-bugga_01.jpg

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-bugga_02.jpg

    Because There Aren't Enough Fender Threads . . .-bugga_03.jpg

  13. #13
    ent
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    wow that looks way better

  14. #14
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    Huge difference, looks much better. By far that's my favorite 9Zero7, nice build!
    Jason
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  15. #15
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    nice ride. what does it weigh in at?

  16. #16
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    38 lbs as shown. Size is L. 35 if I pull the fenders and battery light off.

    Weights on this forum can be deceiving because they're often posted without reference to size. I see people chiming in with similar builds and weights closer to the 31-32 lb range, but mostly that would be true for S and M sizes, I think.

    I do have some added weight over other builds because of the dynohub and light, but I've tried to keep the build light within a reasonable budget. Every little thing adds up and there's a big difference in feel between a 35 lb bike and a 40 lb bike IMO. The dynohub is essential for me because so much time spent on a snowbike is in the darkness of winter. It's always ready for the utility-type trip and then the battery light is there for the higher demands of trail riding. It's also good to have redundancy in your front light system - headlight fail with no backup can really blow, depending on where you are and where you have to get to. And in what kind of weather.

  17. #17
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    I suggest you tie a bit of wire to the bottom of the mudflap and fasten the other end on the mudguard. Looking at it sideways there should be a nice triangle formed.

    This will prevent the mudflap getting dragged up under the mudguard and jamming your front wheel.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57ļ36' Highlands, Scotland

  18. #18
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    VB, thanks for the reminder on the possibility of the mudflap getting sucked up between the tire and fender. I'll look at it to see what makes sense.

  19. #19
    M8 M12 M15 deez nuts
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    Quote Originally Posted by spovegas View Post
    As for caulking, I'm not sure what the purpose would be. There's no need to make the joint water tight - a fender is just a spash guard. And if you ever have to take things apart for some reason, the caulk would be a mess to deal with.
    Definitely donít want to get too much caulk in your hands. Messy cleanup.
    Donít frail and blow if youíre going to Braille and Flow.

  20. #20
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    About how many rivets did you use spovegas

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