Amputee wants an aggressive geometry fattie- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Amputee wants an aggressive geometry fattie

    I've been bikepacking the through the western US for the last 3 months on my Kona Sutra LTD and have recently returned home to Colorado. With winter just a couple months away I dont want to stop riding so I've been looking at fat bikes to ride the long 1 mile journey to work and around town.

    This will be in a paved road but given I live in the mountains there will be plenty of snow. From everything I've seen all fat bikes have a slack/comfort geometry but I'd like something with a bit more of an aggressive build similar to a hardtail mtb.

    I'm looking for something I can swap a 27.5x2.5-3 setup to in the summer to ride some easy/moderate trails on.

    Must have front suspension and a 1x groupset.

    If any of you have any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Or am I looking for something that doesn't exist?
    Last edited by R1S3ND3V1L; 1 Week Ago at 10:23 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by R1S3ND3V1L View Post
    I've been bikepacking the through the western US for the last 3 months on my Kona Sutra LTD and have recently returned home to Colorado. With winter just a couple months away I dont want to stop riding so I've been looking at fat bikes to ride the long 1 mile journey to work and around town.

    This will be in a paved road but given I live in the mountains there will be plenty of snow. From everything I've seen all fat bikes have a slack/comfort geometry but I'd like something with a bit more of an aggressive build similar to a hardtail mtb.

    I'm looking for something I can swap a 27.5x2.5-3 setup to in the summer to ride some easy/moderate trails on.

    Must have front suspension and a 1x groupset.

    If any of you have any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Or am I looking for something that doesn't exist?
    Check out Pole Taiga?

    For sure a 27.5"x3 setup won't be ideal on any modern fatbike, but 29" would give similar pedal clearance to fatbike tires.

    Lšhetetty minun ONEPLUS A6013 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by R1S3ND3V1L View Post
    I've been bikepacking the through the western US for the last 3 months on my Kona Sutra LTD and have recently returned home to Colorado. With winter just a couple months away I dont want to stop riding so I've been looking at fat bikes to ride the long 1 mile journey to work and around town.

    This will be in a paved road but given I live in the mountains there will be plenty of snow. From everything I've seen all fat bikes have a slack/comfort geometry but I'd like something with a bit more of an aggressive build similar to a hardtail mtb.

    I'm looking for something I can swap a 27.5x2.5-3 setup to in the summer to ride some easy/moderate trails on.

    Must have front suspension and a 1x groupset.

    If any of you have any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Or am I looking for something that doesn't exist?
    I would check out the 2020 Rocky Mountain Blizzard 50 that just came out, MTB/trail geometry with a Manitou Mastodon front shock and a 1X 12speed eagle drivetrain. Comes with 27.5 wheels and can run 29" as well.

    I just bought a 2019 Blizzard 20 myself and upgraded to mastodon shock and 12speed eagle drivetrain, mine came with 26x4.8 wheels but can also run up to 29x3 wheels. Great bikes for sure. I chose rocky mountain because of their geometry.

    Sent from my VOG-L04 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by rockyfat2019; 1 Week Ago at 08:13 PM.

  4. #4
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    I second the Rocky Mountain Blizzard recommendation. Also take a look at the Kona Wozo and the latest iteration of the RSD Mayor. All three bikes have geometries suitable for summer trail riding and have build kits that include a front suspension fork.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyfat2019 View Post
    I would check out the 2020 Rocky Mountain Blizzard 50 that just came out, MTB/trail geometry with a Manitou Mastodon front shock and a 1X 12speed eagle drivetrain. Comes with 27.5 wheels and can run 29" as well.

    I just bought a 2019 Blizzard 20 myself and upgraded to mastodon shock and 12speed eagle drivetrain, mine came with 26x4.8 wheels but can also run up to 29x3 wheels. Great bikes for sure. I chose rocky mountain because of their geometry.

    Sent from my VOG-L04 using Tapatalk
    Is it known what the max tire size is for the Blizzard 50? 27.5 x 4.5 would be fun. I love the paint job of the 50.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoaD009 View Post
    Is it known what the max tire size is for the Blizzard 50? 27.5 x 4.5 would be fun. I love the paint job of the 50.
    They come stock with 27.5x4.0, I would think 4.5 is doable but I would email rocky mountain tech support for a answer.

    [email protected]

    Stephane is the guy that usually gets back to any of my tech questions.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyfat2019 View Post
    They come stock with 27.5x4.0, I would think 4.5 is doable but I would email rocky mountain tech support for a answer.

    [email protected]

    Stephane is the guy that usually gets back to any of my tech questions.

    Sent from my VOG-L04 using Tapatalk
    I received confirmation that the max recommended tire sizes are 26 x 4.8, 27.5 x 4.0, and 29 x 3.0.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoaD009 View Post
    I received confirmation that the max recommended tire sizes are 26 x 4.8, 27.5 x 4.0, and 29 x 3.0.
    Good to know, I'm going to build a set of 27.5x3, I have a set of 26x4.8 and 26x4 already, I want a larger plus set for some tech trail in the summer.

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  9. #9
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    Thanks for high jacking my thread

  10. #10
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    OP here

    My budget for the fattie is about 1k, I could stretch it a bit more but would rather not. This bike will primarily be used to commute to work/ride around town here in snowy Colorado.

    From the research I've done lately I really dont need front suspension so my requirements have changed.

    -Fully rigid
    -1x11 would be nice but would settle for 1x10 with the correct gears. (I'm a left leg amputee and I like to spin, not grind)
    -I'm 5'8" 145lbs so I'm right in the middle of the small to medium range
    -I want something nimble and easy to maneuver so I'm leaning towards getting a smaller frame
    -Since this bike will be primarily ridden in the snow being able to fit 26x5 would be nice

    I've been looking at the used market and you would think there would be plenty to choose from here in Colorado but there isn't.

    Checkout the Fox shock on my prosthetic designed for cycling, snowboarding, skiing, wakeboarding ect.
    https://www.instagram.com/phil_snider/
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwNw9gfUEfrG2N4VaoXm37g
    Last edited by R1S3ND3V1L; 1 Week Ago at 10:03 PM. Reason: Links added

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by R1S3ND3V1L View Post
    OP here

    My budget for the fattie is about 1k, I could stretch it a bit more but would rather not. This bike will primarily be used to commute to work/ride around town here in snowy Colorado.

    From the research I've done lately I really dont need front suspension so my requirements have changed.

    -Fully rigid
    -1x11 would be nice but would settle for 1x10 with the correct gears. (I'm a left leg amputee and I like to spin, not grind)
    -I'm 5'8" 145lbs so I'm right in the middle of the small to medium range
    -I want something nimble and easy to maneuver so I'm leaning towards getting a smaller frame
    -Since this bike will be primarily ridden in the snow being able to fit 26x5 would be nice

    I've been looking at the used market and you would think there would be plenty to choose from here in Colorado but there isn't.
    Check out the Norco bigfoot 2, you can get a 2019 for around 1k US dollars, they come with 26x4.9 tires stock, 11 speed drivetrain, lifetime warranty on frame as well. Small would be a good size for you. I find with fatbikes the differences between frame size arent as dramatic.

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  12. #12
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    Check eBay and pinkbike.com as well, lots of crazy deals on both.

    Sent from my VOG-L04 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    I have been but I'd rather buy locally so I can test ride

  14. #14
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    I was in the same boat, I bought brand new locally, because the few used ones around were way over priced, after a mastodon shock and 12 speed eagle upgrade I'm about $2500 into it but I couldn't buy one spec'd like this for under$4500. Funny thing tho, 2 weeks later I picked up a 2018 KHS fatbike for the wife for $250! Great score on that one.

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyfat2019 View Post
    I was in the same boat, I bought brand new locally, because the few used ones around were way over priced, after a mastodon shock and 12 speed eagle upgrade I'm about $2500 into it but I couldn't buy one spec'd like this for under$4500. Funny thing tho, 2 weeks later I picked up a 2018 KHS fatbike for the wife for $250! Great score on that one.

    Sent from my VOG-L04 using Tapatalk
    For 250!!? That would be a nice find!

    I wouldn't have a problem with finding something that needed a few upgrades, I like working on stuff like that. Just gotta wait for the right one i guess. Still have a couple months before the snow starts falling here so until then I'll just be riding my 29er.

    Keeping my eye out for a Beargrease and also thinking about a lower spec Framed.

  16. #16
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    If you are basing your gear ratios on your summer experience, Iíd strongly advise you to reconsider. Else you will want/need to swap out the front chain ring in the snow season.

    I run 10spd 32x11-36 year round as the climbs arenít that big in MD. Up to 4Ē of snow and I can usually get by in the climbing gears when things are flat. Deeper snow requires I manually drop the chain to the 22T in front. I didnít learn I needed that until after the first winter.

    11 or 12 in the back could make a significant difference in riding vs going on a walk with your bike.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    If you are basing your gear ratios on your summer experience, Iíd strongly advise you to reconsider. Else you will want/need to swap out the front chain ring in the snow season.

    I run 10spd 32x11-36 year round as the climbs arenít that big in MD. Up to 4Ē of snow and I can usually get by in the climbing gears when things are flat. Deeper snow requires I manually drop the chain to the 22T in front. I didnít learn I needed that until after the first winter.

    11 or 12 in the back could make a significant difference in riding vs going on a walk with your bike.
    What else would I base it off of?

    My current setup for climbing mountains on my 30lb gravel bike is a 11sp 30x10-42 and lately I haven't been using the 42 since I've become a much stronger rider. Using my lowest gear at 30x42 gives me a pedal stroke of 20.7 gear inches and just slightly over walking speed.

    This same gearing with a 26x4.7 fat tire at 10psi gives me a pedal stroke of 21.4 gear inches. Your 22x36 gearing gives you 18.3 gear inches per pedal stroke, a difference of just 2.9 gear inches. Seems to me that this gearing would be fine on a fat bike or am I missing something?

    I like a 1x setup for ease of use, less maintenance, and less weight

  18. #18
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    I run a 32t chainring and 12speed 10-50 cassette on my rocky mountain fatbike, my wife's KHS is a 21 speed, 3 up front and 7 out back. I'm in the process of switching the KHS to a 1x drivetrain, I'm going to use the 26t and 11-46 cassette that came stock on my rocky mountain for the khs, just need to track down a crank and hub for this KHS.

    I'm not sure how my ratios will do this winter but with 4.8" wide minions im sure I'll do alright. My fat bike is used as a 4 season bike and I do a mix of flats and hills and all diff types of terrain now. I have semi slicks duro Fleetwood, maxxis minions and soon a 27.5x3.0 minion setup.

    I will only ever run a 1X drivetrain on all my bikes now, can't stand having 2 shifters and a front derailleur. Just no need for the extra weight and complication in my opinion.



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  19. #19
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    My 2018 Blizzard 30 has 24t up front and 11-42 out back. I use that low gear all the time in the winter....and frequently in the summer.

  20. #20
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    Amputee wants an aggressive geometry fattie

    Iím not writing to be a dick. Politely suggested you to reconsider.

    You had mentioned 10spd would be an OK choice and I offered a counter point. Iíd consider myself a fairly strong rider, live in a flatter area with less snow and a traditional 1x10 (nonwiderange) does not cut it for a snow bike.

    In snow you will use all your summer bike gearing and then some if your goal is to ride anything but groomed surfaces. You will be riding at a snails pace at the verge of tipping over sideways. Walking (in snowshoes?) may very well be faster. But the goal is to ride, right?

    Riding in serious snow very well may require you to pedal the downhills to maintain any speed. Places youíd be going 20 mph effortlessly in the summer. Think of it as potentially riding against the worst headwind youíve ever faced, but all the time in any direction.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    Iím not writing to be a dick. Politely suggested you to reconsider.

    You had mentioned 10spd would be an OK choice and I offered a counter point. Iíd consider myself a fairly strong rider, live in a flatter area with less snow and a traditional 1x10 (nonwiderange) does not cut it for a snow bike.

    In snow you will use all your summer bike gearing and then some if your goal is to ride anything but groomed surfaces. You will be riding at a snails pace at the verge of tipping over sideways. Walking (in snowshoes?) may very well be faster. But the goal is to ride, right?

    Riding in serious snow very well may require you to pedal the downhills to maintain any speed. Places youíd be going 20 mph effortlessly in the summer. Think of it as potentially riding against the worst headwind youíve ever faced, but all the time in any direction.
    I'm well aware of that, hence my statement of using a 1x10 if the gearing was correct. I stated that I want a 1x setup and will not deviate from that. It's a dealbreaker for me. I'd rather not even have a 2x setup on a road bike but given that that sort of bike would only be ridden on the pavement on nice days, it makes sense. I've always disliked having a front derailleur, even when I got my first mountain bike at 10 years old.

    Cheers and happy pedaling!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by R1S3ND3V1L View Post
    Checkout the Fox shock on my prosthetic designed for cycling, snowboarding, skiing, wakeboarding ect.
    https://www.instagram.com/phil_snider/
    Cool hardware.

    I'm a BK and ride my 26x4.8 Fattie year round. My gearing is 28 x 10-42 and could use more in the mountains, so will go 10-48 when I need a new cassette. In my experience, the Fattie has a 10% penalty over my fully with 29x2.2.

    Amputee wants an aggressive geometry fattie-bbc57da8-1dfa-4ef9-83bd-d66e79b2b2af.jpg
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  23. #23
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    So I am a little confused on the opening. I think most fat bikes are not as relaxed in their geometry, at least the last time I was looking at them. Most of them are built along the lines of HT from a few years ago.

    I don't think you really need to try before you buy a fat bike. It is for the most part a very standard geometry until you start getting into the newer versions like the slackened ones or 27.5 wheels, especially if it is mainly for commuting.

    Anyways here would be my recommendation:

    Free Ship 48 Plus Save up to 60% off new MuleFut Tubeless Compatible Wheel Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Sturgis NX MuleFut Tubeless Compatible Wheel Fatbikes

    Meets your needs and with modern components.

    I have a similar motobecane bike and have been using it for commuting in the CO winters for the past few years. Great bike no issues. I also ride it in the snow when I can and up and down our local ski resort which makes greens scary and fun again. Mine fits 5.0 Bud and Lou no problem.

    My gearing is a 30t up front and 11-42 rear and I would like either a 28t up front or 50t in the rear in the winter. Trust me, you need it. I am a fairly strong rider.

    The bike is $1300 so a little over your range, but thats cause you want suspension. You can get one for $1k or less w/o. I have never really felt like I needed it, but I don't ride it too much in the summer.

    Here is one as well, but it is limited to a 30t up front and has a lesser fork. It is 1x10 so not really a great build. You would be able to throw an 11-46 shimano cassette on but it would require a whole new drive train so not worth it imo. I would go with the motobecane.

    https://www.framedbikes.com/collecti...oy-fat-bike-26

    Have a look around Framed and Bikes direct

  24. #24
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    That's amazing technology you have in your prosthetic!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    So I am a little confused on the opening. I think most fat bikes are not as relaxed in their geometry, at least the last time I was looking at them. Most of them are built along the lines of HT from a few years ago.
    I was going to make a similar comment regarding the "aggressive" vs "comfort/relaxed" geometry statement from the OP. "Aggressive" just isn't a good word to use with regards to mtb geometry. If we're talking about geometries ranging between steep head tube angles and shorter reach, and such versus slacker head tubes and longer reach, it's not a question of aggressiveness. Either bike can be plenty aggressive. The question becomes whether you're looking for more of an xc geometry vs. trail geometry.

    With all that said, you're not going to have a whole lot of choices with a budget of 1k. Especially if you're already having a hard time finding bikes. Which brings up another issue. Sizing. I'm 5'8, also. Unless you've got a really short torso, I just don't see a small working well. I am and always have been a solid medium, and on some bikes, a large even. My wife rides small and xs frames (depending on the manufacturer) and even her small frames feel like clown bikes to me.

    bme107 isn't kidding when talking about the effect of snow on gearing. Fatbikes in the snow need extra low gearing compared to what you might use in the summertime.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    Cool hardware.

    I'm a BK and ride my 26x4.8 Fattie year round. My gearing is 28 x 10-42 and could use more in the mountains, so will go 10-48 when I need a new cassette. In my experience, the Fattie has a 10% penalty over my fully with 29x2.2.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's awesome!!

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