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Thread: 907 is here...

  1. #1
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    907 is here...

    First pics. Time to build! Pics to come.
    Last edited by thickfog; 12-06-2011 at 05:15 AM.
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  2. #2
    All fat, all the time.
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    Yellow! Can't wait to see it!

  3. #3
    Sup
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    Mine arrived on Thursday
    I was at work and my wife has hidden it
    23 days to go
    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  4. #4
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    Damm I know everyone has a hard-on for Kermit and Ernie but I was thinking about a Bert, pics!

  5. #5
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    Small Frame weight 4 lb. 12 oz.
    907 aluminum fork 2 lb. 4 oz.
    Weighed with park tools scale.
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  6. #6
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    Tapatalk seems to work now for pics.
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  7. #7
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    Slow waiting for parts, but wheels came in. Uma 90s laced up by mikesee. Bad cell phone pic....
    Want to use some black and white checkerboard tape for rim strip, but I want go tubeless. Not gonna be easy.
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  8. #8
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    Nice!
    What's up with the cassette? Looks like you drop the first 4 cogs

  9. #9
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    That is turning out very cooool. I can't really tell from the pic are your Umas laced with a 2 cross spoke pattern?

  10. #10
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    Thanks.
    Cassette was just a test run.
    Those wheels are three cross. They do look odd in the pics.
    Last edited by thickfog; 12-17-2011 at 12:55 AM.
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  11. #11
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    Tubeless she shall be...
    Two strips of checkerboard pattern duct tape side by side and sticky side up, then two strips of duct tape sticky down over that. Damn umas are wide!

    Pain in the arse. I felt like an octopus dealing with this sticky tape.
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  12. #12
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    I like the checkerboard tape. The setup aired up without sealant and stayed full. I used a strap around the tire to help push the bead out and down to help air up and seat the bead. After that dry test run, 4-5 ounces stan's sealant was added.

    I do not have high hopes for this setup, but I'll try anything once!

    I am down to seven speeds out of a 10 speed cassette. This is with an origin 8 crank turned into a single ring. The endo and UMA 90 combo is huge. Also one spacer on the bb driveside.... and still I barely have chain / tire clearance.

    Brakes (elixir cr carbons) added. Alligator wavy rotors. Sram X9 rear derailleur. WTB pure v saddle. Truvative team bar. FSA 90 mm stem. ODI ruffians grips. Race Face turbine seatpost.
    Need a new chain. Old one was way short.
    Tired. Going to bed. Another day....
    Last edited by thickfog; 12-17-2011 at 12:57 AM.
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  13. #13
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    31 lb. 12 oz. with pedals.
    Better pics with a real camera to come. Hopefully in the snow on a trail.
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  14. #14
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    nice tape

  15. #15
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    i lust after those umas. too bad my large marge will last longer than me.

  16. #16
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    Thoughts on this build...

    This was my fourth ground-up build.

    There was some oddness with the front caliper. It seemed spaced too far inboard. I tried three brake sets. Magura Louise, Avid bb7, Avid CR carbons. Only the small footprint of the CRs fit. I had major caliper-flange mount to rotor interference with zero room for adjustment. The smallish CRs were the only way things were going to work. I sanded the paint off of the fork mount surface to no avail b4 trying the CRs. I think the fork's IS mount was welded too far inboard. I used various rear IS mount adapters. I tried 180s too. Frustrating. Any ideas?

    On to the rear. Same issue! Sanded paint, used CRs. Works OK. Not much room for adjustment if something happens here.
    I thought maybe I had odd hub spacing issues. I transfered everything to my pugs to check. No issues front or rear! Something is up with the 907 frame and fork IMO.
    I know the paint is THICK. This is my first build that I had to sand paint from the rear dropouts to allow the wheel to slide in. It was that tight. Unfortunately my frame had three chips out of the box. Some very bad flake on the bottom of the bb shell too. I peeled the loose paint off. Any place where a bolt head touches paint (yes, even with washers), it completely chips it off. This bums me out. First time ever on a bike build I've seen this. :-(
    Few rides and chips will be a moot point, but i prefer to have a good trail story with every bike scar.

    Tire and chain spacing were problematic. Running UMA 90s with 120tpi endo rear. X9 10 speed. 1070 cassette. Kmc chain. Mikesee built the wheels and there is absolutely no lateral runout. Good thing as my tire is so close to the right stay that a lizard skinz neoprene chain guard rubs on the tire! Any runout and I'm gonna get tire to chainstay rub. How are people running bfls with hundees on this frame?

    Ok, so I lost three cogs on the cassette. I'm using a single chainring inboard on a origin 8 crank. The chain to tire clearance is OK like this. Also added one spacer on the fsa platinum bb. I may add another as this is more effective than rear cog spacing. Reason being that the tire rub area is closer to the bb, than the cassette. You have less of an angle eating up your spacing. Or is it a wash?
    This is not a slam on any manufacturer. Just my honest opinion and the experience I wanted to share. Fat bikes are new and best working parts haven't been completely established yet. It will take time.
    I'm also inexperienced as this is only my fourth ground-up build. Rebuilds are not the same. Many times at that point, the dirty work was already done for you and you never even knew it.
    Post up your experience, issues and such. Different problems or the same problems I had?

    Overall the 907 is absolutely gorgeous looking. Can't wait to see how she rides.
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  17. #17
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    Hey Thickfog what front hub are you using?

  18. #18
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    Surly new hub. 135mm.
    And sans freewheel threading.
    Now that you mention this I swear I remember another post about a similar issue with the surly hub.....
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  19. #19
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    Come to think of it, when mounting the wheel in the fork there is a few mm of room between the hub nuts. I could put washers on the brake side. This would push the rotor over relative to the caliper.

    First fork where I had to push the legs together when closing the QR.
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  20. #20
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    Looks great in yellow. I have one being delivered on Sunday. Did you have to chase & face the HS and BB or was it already done?

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stray Mutt View Post
    Looks great in yellow. I have one being delivered on Sunday. Did you have to chase & face the HS and BB or was it already done?

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
    All surfaces were clean and parallel. Threads were very clean.
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  22. #22
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    you need some of that tape on the frame to get the proper Taxi cab look

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    you need some of that tape on the frame to get the proper Taxi cab look
    I was thinking about it for some cable rub areas!

    Supposed to be race flag, not taxi cab!
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    I was thinking about it for some cable rub areas!

    Supposed to be race flag, not taxi cab!
    Sorry, but the yellow was just the tipping point for my imagination

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    I may add another as this is more effective than rear cog spacing. Reason being that the tire rub area is closer to the bb, than the cassette. You have less of an angle eating up your spacing. Or is it a wash?
    On my size L, the tire rub distance is about 1/3 of the way back from chainring to cassette. So for every mm I move the the chainline outboard at the chainring, it moves the chain 2/3 mm outboard at the tire rub area. Whereas every mm I move it out at the cassette, it only moves the chain out 1/3 mm at the chain rub area. Dimensions will be a little different for your size S, but I think the same relationship basically holds true.

    Great looking bike.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Thoughts on this build...

    This was my fourth ground-up build.

    There was some oddness with the front caliper. It seemed spaced too far inboard. I tried three brake sets. Magura Louise, Avid bb7, Avid CR carbons. Only the small footprint of the CRs fit. I had major caliper-flange mount to rotor interference with zero room for adjustment. The smallish CRs were the only way things were going to work. I sanded the paint off of the fork mount surface to no avail b4 trying the CRs. I think the fork's IS mount was welded too far inboard. I used various rear IS mount adapters. I tried 180s too. Frustrating. Any ideas?

    On to the rear. Same issue! Sanded paint, used CRs. Works OK. Not much room for adjustment if something happens here.
    .
    Thickfog I modified the brake adapter for an Enabler fork to accept front hub spaced rotors. That required machining out 5mm from the adapter where it sits over the fork mounts, which is about half the available thickness. If you took off amillimeter or so off both the front and rear mounts you should gain the ability to adjust the brakes laterally as needed. I'll try to post a picture but it is hard to get a close up that really shows anything.
    Latitude 61

  27. #27
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    Syranak, i think i know exactly what you mean. This is exactly what it seems I need to do. The CRs seem ok for now, so until any issues arise they might be ok.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Syranak, i think i know exactly what you mean. This is exactly what it seems I need to do. The CRs seem ok for now, so until any issues arise they might be ok.
    Yeah that would work.....But why? It's the right hub for that fork, there should be no problem with it. I guess I would just like to know is it a fabrication defect or something? If so I would jump on the manufacture and get it sorted out.

  29. #29
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    Oh yeah, by the way very cool looking ride

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Yeah that would work.....But why? It's the right hub for that fork, there should be no problem with it. I guess I would just like to know is it a fabrication defect or something? If so I would jump on the manufacture and get it sorted out.
    Yeah, not sure what's going on 100%. The CRs are working well, so I'm going to leave it be. I'd imagine something odd is up with my brake adapters-such as correct ones etc.
    Until i have more time to play around with it, I'm gonna leave it be. Work has been nuts, so no ride time and no work on bikes time.
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    I have a 2012 green/large 9:Zero:7 and not having issues with the chain rubbing the tire but it is close when using the outermost cog. Up front I replaced the large cog with a bash guard because this is gearing that I would never utilize in the snow here in Anchorage.

    3.7 Endo, X9 10spd rear, Shimano XT E-type front, cassette-SRAM PG-1070, e.13 Triple (revised) Snow Crank, Salsa and Chain Reaction Hubs and RD's with cutouts.

    The build quality of the frame, the welds, paint and finish are really nice. I prefer the hydroform method for forming aluminum and I don't know if it's better but it gives the frame a more fluid look which I like.

  32. #32
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    Tubeless fail!

    In hindsight, it's obvious why my split tape experiment failed. The overlapping tape simply peeled away from its other half at the cutouts. As the tape pillowed out from the rim cutouts, it spread the tape seam apart.
    Ok. Easy fix. Just buy some 3 inch wide tape to bridge the cutouts. Picked up some gorilla tape that is almost 3 inches. This just might work.
    I had no other leaks besides the tape overlap seam, so fixing this just might work.

    With some 3oz of tape plus 4-5 oz of sealant, this is quickly approaching the why not use a dh tube thought. Well, for one the dh tubes I have weigh 10 oz. And you still need a rim strip. Also, tubeless has a different feel. The tire feels so supple. Not to mention rim strikes won't be as scary when running low pressures and tubeless.

    Split tube is my other option, but UPS says i can't try those until the 28th. The thing with that setup is, yes the tube ends up lighter, but you still need a rim strip and sealant. Or do you guys ditch the rim strip? Put tape pieces over the spokes for protection? Do the cutouts cut into the tube as it pillows outward?

    Other stuff- Taking the tires off the rims: the UMA 90 bead hold was absolutely insane. On the rear I had to use a soft jaw clamp to break the bead. These wheels should hold without burping one would think. We'll see!
    Off to try the new tape. Will post in the am for news.
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  33. #33
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    From Mendoncyclesmith uma 90's:

    Speedway has the Stans tape in full width. I don't know why, but they don't seem to be making a point of selling you the tape when you order the rims, guess they think if you want it, you'll ask???

    I put a Surly vinyl rim strip down first (both for color and to help protect the tape from the hole edges, and nipples. Hold that in place with a few strips of "normal" Stans tape on the edges, at the valve and seam, to cover the drain holes, as they are close to the edge and might get missed with the fat Stans.

    Lay a wrap of Fat Stans on, install the tire with a tube to set one bead edge, remove tube, install sealant, and let it rip.

  34. #34
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    Success this morning is measured by psi. And my psi are all there!

    Ok, trail rides only can validate any level of success here. At least I can get to the trailhead without having to pump the tires up. 20 minutes was the max leakdown time to flat before.

    Bdundee, I have clownshoe strips on order. If my tape only experiment fails, on to the rim strip method or split tubes. After that, it's tubes for me! Oh and wide stans tape? You got my attention. Gonna find some!

    Yesterday's redo mess:


    Recap of what I did:
    Stans tape on rim holes and the seam.
    Two partial overlapping decorative tape strips (duck brand checkered-taxi cab style! Thanks yxan) sticky side out on the rim.
    One super wide tape strip (gorilla brand) sticky down on that.
    Honestly, I think the stans on the drain holes and seam helped immensely.
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  35. #35
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Greg at Speedway had the tape especially made for the 90s. I should have some in my hands in the next week or two

    Edit: I was going to do the Gorilla tape method as well till I found out about the stans tape. I think you should be golden with your setup now.
    Last edited by bdundee; 12-23-2011 at 08:46 AM.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Greg at Speedway had the tape especially made for the 90s. I should have some in my hands in the next week or two

    Edit: I was going to do the Gorilla tape method as well till I found out about the stans tape. I think you should be golden with your setup now.
    Bd, can you snap a pic of that tape when you get it! That tape is the way to go. I don't think the gorilla tape is the best for this application. I bet my setup will fail.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Bd, can you snap a pic of that tape when you get it! That tape is the way to go. I don't think the gorilla tape is the best for this application. I bet my setup will fail.
    Sure no problem or if you decide you want some before I get mine let me know I will have Greg throw some in my box for you and I can forward it to you. It would get you free shipping from AK and I think it will come to me 2nd day fedex and I live in WI so I think your pretty close to me so it would be pretty fast. Of coarse it all hinges on when my frame will be in and that should be now or the first part of next week.

    Let me know......Bob

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Sure no problem or if you decide you want some before I get mine let me know I will have Greg throw some in my box for you and I can forward it to you. It would get you free shipping from AK and I think it will come to me 2nd day fedex and I live in WI so I think your pretty close to me so it would be pretty fast. Of coarse it all hinges on when my frame will be in and that should be now or the first part of next week.

    Let me know......Bob
    Thanks much for the offer Bob. I don't want to hassle you with shipping it. I'm only in Michigan. I think you should come go our snow bike race in Grand Rapids jan 14th. So close for you, but so far! Living across Lake Michigan, i think you know what i mean!
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Thanks much for the offer Bob. I don't want to hassle you with shipping it. I'm only in Michigan. I think you should come go our snow bike race in Grand Rapids jan 14th. So close for you, but so far! Living across Lake Michigan, i think you know what i mean!
    Love to come but yes so close yet so far. The offer stands with the rim tape if you want it, I ride by the post office everyday. You have a few days to decide let me know.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Love to come but yes so close yet so far. The offer stands with the rim tape if you want it, I ride by the post office everyday. You have a few days to decide let me know.
    Hey Bob, sent you a pm on the tape if there is any time.
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  41. #41
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    First snow ride tonight. Actually, first ride of any kind. Really nice. Feels super light, climbs great. Front end is super easy to loft. Love that.



    Tubeless worked flawlessly. No weirdness or pressure loss.

    Drivetrain was perfect as far as gearing and smoothness. Great time overall.
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  42. #42
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    Very Nice, turned out awesome!!

  43. #43
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    Thanks! Need more snow now.
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