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  1. #1
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    4.8 front- 4.0 rear

    Anyone running this combination? Looks like 4.0 is the biggest for chinese IP010 170mm frames. I already have HuskerDu for the rear, now I have to choose front tire. Dillinger 5.0, another Husker 4.0, Van Helga 4.0... I can also choose between Surly tires, perhaps Nate/Bud for trail riding? I expect 60% trail 40% snow riding on Hope/ML wheels.
    :)

  2. #2
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    It works fine other than slowing down the steering a touch. I frequently run a BFL up front and a Knard or HuDu out back. The extra volume on the front does give a little extra cushion on rough terrain as well.

  3. #3
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    Winter time I run Bud/Nate ( Wisconsin winter). Summer time I run Hudu, Knard. 5" Dilinger would be a great front tire also.

  4. #4
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    Thank you both. I am also waiting on 4.8 Jumbo Jims, Schwalbe says beginning 2015. I still hope there's a chance to fit it on ML and 170 frame... But in the mean time I'll go with Dillinger 5.0.
    :)

  5. #5
    Anchorage, AK
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    In snow I have found I need more float in the rear than the front. You might see a traction benefit on dirt or packed snow from the bigger tire, but in soft snow I have my doubts that it would do much good.
    --Peace

  6. #6
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    Totally agree with Lars

  7. #7
    aka bOb
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    I think he is saying his frame is limiting the size in the back.

  8. #8
    since 4/10/2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I think he is saying his frame is limiting the size in the back.
    This is my situation, also. 5" won't fit in the back. My thinking is that running a fatter tire in front will pack a larger area down, and an aggressive tire in the back will give forward traction.

    FWIW, snow conditions in my area are RARELY fluffy powder. Typically, snow is very wet, heavy, and packs down well, where it then becomes ice from repeated travel and frequent freeze/thaw cycles. It also tends to get very chunky from all the skinny tire folks riding and making ruts in the slush, and from boot prints.

    I may or may not get studs for the winter this year, but I am thinking about a 5" front/4" rear combo for winter riding this year.

  9. #9
    sluice box
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    4.8 front- 4.0 rear-winter-2014-2-021.jpg
    From my pre-fatback days I built my Gary Fisher HKEK into a 1/2 fat bike for the winter season. I used to just run Snowcat 44mm wheels with Nokian Freddie Revenz 26*2.3 in the winter. Then I put a 80mm wheel and Larry 3.8 120 tpi set up with lite q-tubes in an Enabler fork and kept the snowcat nokian studs outback. Going with a fat front I felt the bike was more stable in variable snow and it could plow through snow berms pushed up by the snow plow easier than with just the skinny tires. The bike was noticeably slower but more capable. On winter trails I could only run on the most packed and firm conditions, I found the fat front helped me ride groomers better. I still would break through a crust in some areas with the rear wheel but having your front wheel break through is worse as you end up going over the handlebars. I could ride 75% of what my friend would ride on his pugsly set up like this. Not what your asking but my fat front experience and I plan on putting a bigger tire up front on the Fatback 170 this winter.
    Last edited by Co-opski; 10-20-2014 at 02:04 PM.

  10. #10
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    I am thinking of adding some sort of studded 5" inch front tire and a 4" rear studded tire.
    I think my bike will only fit up to 4.25 in the back or so. I could also do a Snowshoe XL up front and the smaller regular Snowshoe on the back.

    We'll see.

    I have 2 Floaters right now, one on a 100mm rim in front, and the back has an 80mm rim. I'm hoping this combo works for me and I won't feel the need to blow a bunch of cash on studded tires.

  11. #11
    dvn
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    I have a set of studded Dillinger 5's coming for my IP-010. There is a lot of room with the current Husker DU. Seems 45NRTH tires run a bit small. If the 5 doesn't fit the rear, I'll either shave some knobs or run the 4 in the rear as I have a set of those sitting on the shelf as well.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  12. #12
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    I am running a clown shoe/big fat larry in front with the stock
    rolling darryl/nate on the back (both tubeless) on my pug ops.
    From what I understand, I could put a clown shoe on the back,
    but only with a 4 inch tire, or put 5 inch on the rolling darryl.
    from what I can tell, doing either would get pretty tight. thinking
    about trying it, but not sure if the extra cost for another clown shoe
    or 5" tire would be worth the benefit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 4.8 front- 4.0 rear-pugopsclown.jpg  


  13. #13
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    4.8 front- 4.0 rear

    I run a bud front 4.0 rear. There is a slight benefit in flotation with Bud but a large gain in traction and steering control. Bud is a great front tire positive at all lean angles with predictable release. It carves! Much better than others (Larry,Floater,Nate,Endo) that I have tried.


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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surlyrider View Post
    I am running a clown shoe/big fat larry in front with the stock
    rolling darryl/nate on the back (both tubeless) on my pug ops.
    From what I understand, I could put a clown shoe on the back,
    but only with a 4 inch tire, or put 5 inch on the rolling darryl.
    from what I can tell, doing either would get pretty tight. thinking
    about trying it, but not sure if the extra cost for another clown shoe
    or 5" tire would be worth the benefit.
    I just measured my pugs ops clearance with a 3.8" tire. The D5 is .25" wider and would rub chain and chainstay in low gear, so I wouldn't think it would work.

    I am considering putting a D5 up front though.

  15. #15
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    Bud & Nate on a pugsley and i love this combination!
    (both on 65mm Marge Lites)
    The bud gives me a lot more cushion...

  16. #16
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    Likewise, on my Neck-Ro I run Bud/Nate on Rolling Darryl's in Winter. BFL on rear in dryer times. Sometimes a Bud/BFL combo which looks good, but the Nate has the best rear traction that I'm aware of for a Pugs rear triangle. Not sure that anyone will be investing $$$ in trying to out do it either as an aggressive 4.8 + (Lou) is too large for the Pugs. I understand that a Bud/Bud could fit, but only with on Marge in the rear. Eventually, I may end up going the Ice Cream Truck route in a couple of years when 6+ is considered small.

  17. #17
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    I also run a Bud/Nate combo on Darryl's. I like the sure handed feeling of the Bud and it absolutely eats up rooty trails and rock gardens. The only thing I have to compare it to is BFL front and rear so my knowledge is admittedly limited. BTW I have a Pugs with the moonie fork.4.8 front- 4.0 rear-10696204_836963149670615_3067653007938711672_n.jpg

  18. #18
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    When I ran a Bud on my necro, I found having a clownshoe in the front helped reduce the height different between the front and rear wheels. With a Bud on an RD my foot hit the tire in slow tight turns (and studs took chunks out of my boot). That went away with a clownshoe. The wider rim also prevents the tire from squirming at low pressure, which I appreciated while cornering.

  19. #19
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    So it looks like my wife may want to keep the BD Boris X9 Fatty (I'll Powdercoat it for her to cover the ugly color). So I will add a carbon front fork for more clearance and compliance.

    Anyone run a Jumbo Jim 4.8 in the front and JJ 4.0 rear?
    Collection of fun carbon & titanium bikes

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  20. #20
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    I run a snowshoe xl studded and a gnarwhal studded in winter. The larger front i find on fresh snow makes a trail and the rear gives me lots of traction. We dont get enough snow i need to worry about floating with a 5" rear.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  21. #21
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    From today, on very rocky/rooted trails here in central Arkansas on a set of 4.0 Kenda Juggernaut Sports. Not sure about snow but, we've found that here on the single track tails with rock gardens and roots, anything bigger that a 4.0 is just too big and slows you way down. 4" tires are way more agile and flickabal. Plus, my OCD wouldn't allow two different size tires.

    https://i1217.photobucket.com/albums.../IMG_80791.jpg

  22. #22
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    Ok, how about a 5.05 (5.3) XXL on the front and a 4.8 on the rear, on 80mm rims? Ie max rated clearance on a Wednesday? Intended mainly as an alternative to a front shock.

  23. #23
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    I run BFLs front and rear on my Minn 3.0. For really soft sand conditions I roll 2 psi back, 1 psi front. If I'm crossing ruts, horse hoof prints, etc I weight shift back to avoid plowing with the front. After riding a friends Black Borow, I really felt the short chain-stay advantage and the Bluto really helped in the ruts. My read is a little rear weight bias helps in soft sand, flats or uphill. Wider tire upfront would likely slow steering down but if you weight biased towards the front, it could help on flotation. I also suspect that weight bias towards the rear really makes soft sand riding easier because the front tire isn't climbing as high a "ridge" and its compression of the material makes it easier for the rear tire.

    I can't comment on snow..no experience there.

  24. #24
    Why so uptite?
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    Thanks for the feedback guys!
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    @tgi_cycling

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