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26x5.05 XXL

350K views 2K replies 224 participants last post by  mikesee 
#1 ·


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#1,127 ·
I don't know? I just found the video and could see that the tire fit on the back. Right now there aren't a lot of options for a lowered priced bike that fits the 2XL. That's kind of interesting to me as the tire has been out for a year. Price wise it looks like everything else where the tire fits without having questionable clearance or other issues is over $2000 (Farley 7) or pushing $3000 (Blackborow).
 
#1,129 ·
That's the impression I'm getting from what I've read and what a couple of Alaska LBS's have have told me. I'm guessing true 4.8" wide tires work adequately for a large number of bikers in most areas of the USA? I thought I read somewhere that the USA was the largest market for fatbikes.
 
#1,144 ·
Well, I know there are a decent enough number of riders in Lapland, but fat bikes are not nearly as big in Sweden as a whole as the other two. A lot of the 'niche' companies like 907, Ithaqua, Borealis, Salsa, etc. have dealers all over Finland and Norway but none in Sweden. I also have to ship from the UK and Germany to get fat-bike specific parts because nobody around here carries anything.

I mean, I can get a Specialized or Trek. Maybe even a Cannondale special order. And XXL has a house brand on the level of a Charge. But almost nobody carries fat cranks, hubs, bikepacking gear, or stuff like that.
 
#1,132 ·
Mayor wears em well enough for a reasonable budget!
Colorado USA high country and I ride my 5.05's half flat in the powder and not more than 3.5 psi otherwise. I use 4.8's when I'm not riding 5.05's and have no desire to run 4.0 cause they just don't feel as good.
 
#1,133 ·
Even in -35 these tires grip well. I think the cold weather grip is more useful than the flotation, but it may go hand in hand. I rode out on a frozen slough today. Ice is a least 1m thick. Sounds like a monster truck on the ice. I would never buy another fat bike that can't accommodate 5 inch tires.
I can't wear a helmet in these conditions though. What are you other cold weather guys wearing for protection?
 

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#1,143 ·
It's a bit off thread topic, but since you asked...

Have you tried a ski helmet? I used to use a regular bike helmet with a fleece liner with ear flaps, but I'm loving the Giro Nine Ski Helmet...the lining is thick and covers the entire ears, plus it has a nice vent feature where you can open/close vents with gloves on. I've used it down to 0F (windchill around -15F) and it was still more than enough. I can fit a full-head balaclava on underneath if needed.
 
#1,134 ·
Is that in Fahrenheit or Celsius? Either way that's really f-ing cold! I'm on the coast of AK so I never get that kind of cold thank goodness. 

I never wear a helmet on my fatbike. The riding is generally so slow and dealing with the cold, wind and changing conditions is much easier without fighting with what fits under a helmet. I just wear a thin, fleece toque that's easy to take off and put back on one handed so I can do it while riding. If it's really windy and cold I'll wear a face mask but that's really rare. I just use the same balaclavas I use under my helmets when snowmachining. I recently got a Carhartt combination stocking hat with a built in balaclava you can pull down. I've not yet used it but think it will be handy when it's really cold and windy. I just keep it on the bike all the time. Goggles would also be my choice but I've never ridden my bike in conditions where I need them.
 
#1,135 ·
Is that in Fahrenheit or Celsius? Either way that's really f-ing cold! I'm on the coast of AK so I never get that kind of cold thank goodness. 

I never wear a helmet on my fatbike. The riding is generally so slow and dealing with the cold, wind and changing conditions is much easier without fighting with what fits under a helmet. I just wear a thin, fleece toque that's easy to take off and put back on one handed so I can do it while riding. If it's really windy and cold I'll wear a face mask but that's really rare. I just use the same balaclavas I use under my helmets when snowmachining. I recently got a Carhartt combination stocking hat with a built in balaclava you can pull down. I've not yet used it but think it will be handy when it's really cold and windy. I just keep it on the bike all the time. Goggles would also be my choice but I've never ridden my bike in conditions where I need them.
-35 it doesn't matter if it's Fahrenheit or Celsius.
 
#1,136 ·
I really like the way the RSD Mayor looks and that it is made in Canada. l don't care for the 80mm wheels though. There website shows $1700 but I don't know what shipping would run? I'm assuming around $150 so the bike is then $1850. That's over what I'm wanting to spend. Does anyone know if 2XL fit on the Mayor with 100mm wheels? I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance? The tires look kind of tight with 80mm wheels in the Facebook photo. https://www.facebook.com/fatbikedotcom/posts/985980224797944:0
 
#1,137 ·
It seems a few of the Canadian built fatbikes have an 80mm rim rather than the 100mm. When I was shopping I called around and was told the reasoning was the low psi needed for snow. The tires are easier to keep on a 80mm rim at low psi and the sidewall height keeps the tires off the rim. Makes sense to me as I run 37x12.5 tires on an 8 inch rim on my FJ40 rock crawler for the same reason.
And once at low pressures the contact patch is pretty much the same. There are benefits to a 100mm rim but they don't come into play at low pressures. Makes some sense. I would like to get a set of 100mm clownshoes for my Bud and Lou combo for the summer with higher pressures. I bet it would handle quite well. But the price of a set of rims is crazy. I wonder if a 90mm rim would be a good in between choice?
This link has a ton of info.
F A Q - rideFATbikes.ca

As far as the facemask and googles go in my pic above, they are needed as skin freezes in about 5 minutes at -35. With the wind its about -46 today.
 
#1,165 ·
Mikesee & AKcheesehead,
Interesting, I didn't know there were automotive type tubeless tires & wheels available. I'm not that familiar with tubeless but I've read so many threads about guys futzing with tape, foam, sealant, ghetto split tubes, squirting sealant at low PSI, messy tire changes, etc that I've often wondered how it could be worth the hassle?

Just today I had to air way down to make it through a 3/4 mile long section of inconsistent, wind blowN snow that only supported you some of the time. Once I got back on the main trail it felt like my brake was dragging or I was towing a kid in a trailer. The amount of resistance from very low PSI tires was amazing. I wouldn't have wanted to deal with a tubeless set up that might have lost air at low psi. Are their any 100mm wide fat tire wheels that are set up like automotive tubeless?
 
#1,166 ·
I ride jumbo jim LS tubeless with out sealant. That is on 80 mm carbon rim. And soon on 100 mm carbon rim. And I going to do the same on 2xl. Just have waiting for det bike and the 100 mm carbon wheelset. This is singel wall carbon rims. Air up great. And holds air well at 1 psi.
 
#1,168 ·
I like the sounds of that. Do you tape the wheel to make the spokes air tight? What do you do for a valve stem?

Pole Taiga Snow, Clown Shoes, tubeless and 11Psi test pressure.



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Dang, I'm a bit surprised by the how close the tire is to the chainstay. I'd have no problem running it, just would have thought it'd have a bit more clearance. I'd love to tryout one of those bikes to see how their unique geometry handles and feels.
 
#1,170 ·
5-6mm works! I've got 5mm clearance between the chain and the Lou on my Fatboy and that's been fine. Actually I think that's all the clearance I have at one of my chainstays as well.

130mm wide tire... nice!
 
#1,179 ·
The low pressure narrow rim width argument is funny. You are NEVER going to be riding in a really low pressure situation w/ enough force to roll a tire off a rim. The only time I am below 6-8 psi is on snow, to achieve float.

Comparing humans on a bike to high weigh, high powered 4wd rigs is straight up apples and oranges argument. The two applications couldn't be more different actually.

A narrow rim and wide tire are going to give you a really round tire profile, and my "guess" is that handling would be very odd. The opposite would be a really wide rim with narrow tire, which would yield a very flat tire profile.
 
#1,181 ·
The low pressure narrow rim width argument is funny. You are NEVER going to be riding in a really low pressure situation w/ enough force to roll a tire off a rim. The only time I am below 6-8 psi is on snow, to achieve float.

Comparing humans on a bike to high weigh, high powered 4wd rigs is straight up apples and oranges argument. The two applications couldn't be more different actually.

A narrow rim and wide tire are going to give you a really round tire profile, and my "guess" is that handling would be very odd. The opposite would be a really wide rim with narrow tire, which would yield a very flat tire profile.
Nobody is talking about narrow rims. As the rim width approaches the nominal width of the tire the more likely it is to roll off the rim at low pressures.
All rims and all tires. Except for those with a tire retention system whether that's an external beadlock or an internal system.
I've rolled Challenge Grifo's off rims in cross running 25 psi on 23mm rims on my SS Unit. Same tires, same pressure, no problems on a 19mm rim on my JTS.
 
#1,190 ·
One reason would be it's just cleaner, particularly if one likes to frequently swap tires around for varying winter conditions. Also, if it aint broke, don't fix it. As with most things, it depends on rider, conditions and riding style. I've not had any issues with riding light Q-tubes down to 1-2psi in 4.8" tires (bud/lou and XLs) in winter...the weight is close to a wash with the extra taping/sealant. Maybe it changes, but it's been fine for over a year in my winter riding conditions. It was fine the 4-5 times I rode on summer trails too for that matter, up around 8-10 psi....moderately aggressive, hardpack w roots, but minimal rocks.
 
#1,191 ·
I like the concept of going tubeless but unless it can be done with the existing tires and wheels I have and without sealant, I'm not really stoked on it. Aside from the additional weight, I've not had any issues with tubes and they've been reliable.

Maybe I'll order a couple tubeless valve stems and screw around with my existing tires/wheels and see what happens. Sounds like you just run a strip of tape over the spoke holes and then inflate the tire, correct?

Do they make schrader type valve stems for going tubeless? Then I cold use my air compressor to inflate them initially. I supposed I could also drill out a hole on the opposite side of the existing valve stems hole and insert and automotive style schrader valve. I personally hate the presta style valves bikes always seem to come with.
 
#1,193 ·
I like the concept of going tubeless but unless it can be done with the existing tires and wheels I have and without sealant, I'm not really stoked on it. Aside from the additional weight, I've not had any issues with tubes and they've been reliable.

Maybe I'll order a couple tubeless valve stems and screw around with my existing tires/wheels and see what happens. Sounds like you just run a strip of tape over the spoke holes and then inflate the tire, correct?

Do they make schrader type valve stems for going tubeless? Then I cold use my air compressor to inflate them initially. I supposed I could also drill out a hole on the opposite side of the existing valve stems hole and insert and automotive style schrader valve. I personally hate the presta style valves bikes always seem to come with.
Buy a cheap 50 cent brass adapter and use the compressor.
I have nothing against tubeless. I've used them plenty in the summer and on my cross bike.
Even if I could run these without sealant, I still may not run tubeless in the winter.
I can change a tube in -45. It would be painful but I could do it. But popping a tire loose from the bead or a puncture could mean real trouble if I'm 10km from home.
I don't live in a city.
 
#1,195 ·
That tubeless patch kit looks very similar, albeit smaller, than the "horsehair" type patches they sell at Napa. The concept behind those patches are very sound. I've even patched sidewall punctures on ATV and automotive tires and they held for years. You aren't supposed to fix sidewall punctures on auto tires but it works if you are in a pinch. I'm liking the idea of tubeless even more.

I'll have to look for a presta to schrader adapter. I didn't know something like that existed.
 
#1,212 ·
I run 4.5" (actual) tires on 100mm rims, tubeless. 0-1psi riding, the bead has never broken. I'm sure I can get the tire to peel off by riding fast and aggressive, but the fact that I'm having to air down to 0-1psi means I'm doing neither of those things, but doing all I can just to stay on the bike.
 
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