2018 Fatboy Carbon Comp + New Stout Solid Rims?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2018 Fatboy Carbon Comp + New Stout Solid Rims?

    Do any of you have experience with the new, solid, tubeless-ready rims that Specialized is shipping on the 2018 Fatboy Carbon Comp bikes? They aren't shown on the public Specialized site yet, but a buddy just got one today, and my girlfriend should have hers on Thursday. (Photo of him and the bike here.)

    I haven't had a chance to pull them apart, but they look to be similar-ish to the HED BAD rims, but had a more solid and thicker feel when squeezed / tapped.

    Spec on that bike is looking pretty good as well for $2800 MSRP... Rims that should work great tubeless, NEXT crank w/ steel chainring, GX Eagle, SRAM Level brakes, and 4" Ground Controls.

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    2018 Fatboy Carbon Comp + New Stout Solid Rims?-21367044_10155407550995239_4819397005688436072_o.jpg

    Haven't set the bike up tubeless yet, but here's a photo of the inside of the rim. Nipple+washer and single wall makes it look like a HED BAD setup, but with a heavier rim. Bead seat looks good for tire retention and the stock tires needed good a bit of force to de-bead.

    As stock it came with a vinyl strip over the nipple heads, but it only seems to serve to protect the tube.

    Tonight I'm planning to give this a go with just some Stan's and a valve and some used Jumbo Jim 4.0 Snakeskins. I've got some HED BADs on another bike which holds air wonderfully, so I'm hoping for something similar here.

  3. #3
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    I've now done two sets of these. Setup is a treat. All you really need to do is get one side of the tire off, pull the tube and trim strip, fit a valve (I added a plastic washer to the outside so the nut doesn't bottom out on the rubber cone), add sealant, and seat the tire with an air compressor.

    None of the tires I set up leaked anything anywhere, holding ~20PSI for multiple days before being dropped down to riding pressure.

    (I've set up both the stock 4.0 Ground Controls and some 4.0 Jumbo Jim SnakeSkin tires and both worked great.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by c0nsumer View Post
    I've now done two sets of these. Setup is a treat. All you really need to do is get one side of the tire off, pull the tube and trim strip, fit a valve (I added a plastic washer to the outside so the nut doesn't bottom out on the rubber cone), add sealant, and seat the tire with an air compressor.

    None of the tires I set up leaked anything anywhere, holding ~20PSI for multiple days before being dropped down to riding pressure.

    (I've set up both the stock 4.0 Ground Controls and some 4.0 Jumbo Jim SnakeSkin tires and both worked great.)
    hoping you can help. Got a 2018 fatboy the $1800 one. The wheels are new on this one as well stout 80? They say is tubeless ready. What is the process and i hear it is recommended to use an air compressor is that true? How much does it cost to do it yourself or have your lbs do it.

    also my new rear wheel wobbles and don't know if it is bc the wheel is not true. It is new . will be taking to the lbs soon.

  5. #5
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    Sweet. Are these rims available separately?

  6. #6
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    I'm sorry, but I don't really understand what you're asking. I'm not sure what wheels are on there, but if they are the new solid rims then tubeless should be easy. Set them up the same as any other tubeless MTB tire, but remove the rim strip as it's not needed.

  7. #7
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    Looks like a copy of the HED BAD with just a slightly different profile.

    2018 Fatboy Carbon Comp + New Stout Solid Rims?-hed-bad.jpg

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    Last edited by prj71; 11-08-2017 at 08:22 AM.

  8. #8
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    Looks very similar.

    the one that came on the bike is the stout 80 which has no cut outs on the wheels.

    I have watch multiple videos and read multiple topics on going tubeless. However I am total beginner when it comes to bikes so..


    To consumer....I was wondering because you have done it before what does it cost to purchase all the supplies to do it yourself and do you need an air compressor to do it? And do you happen to know what lbs charges to do this job for both wheels? My lbs stated a $100 thanks however would like to learn how to do things on the bike myself.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jks550 View Post
    Looks very similar.
    They are similar, but not the same. I have HED BAD on my bike, and my girlfriend's bike has the new Stouts. Similar profile, but the Stouts are easier to fit a tire, don't hold the tire quite as solidly, are thicker, are stronger, and seem to be cheaper. (A good thing.)

    Quote Originally Posted by jks550 View Post
    To consumer....I was wondering because you have done it before what does it cost to purchase all the supplies to do it yourself and do you need an air compressor to do it? And do you happen to know what lbs charges to do this job for both wheels? My lbs stated a $100 thanks however would like to learn how to do things on the bike myself.
    Ahh, got it. I'd say... if you have a compressor, it'll cost you maybe $40. Figure $15 for a set of Stan's valves, $25 for a thing of sealant, and a bit of time. No rim tape is needed on these.

    $100 seems high, but I could see $60-$80 being reasonable for the time+parts. I think I took ~15 minutes to do it on the two sets of wheels I've done.

    $100 seems about right for rims with cutouts that need taping and a bunch of fiddly work. The new Stouts don't need any of that, so it's a real easy job.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by c0nsumer View Post
    They are similar, but not the same. I have HED BAD on my bike, and my girlfriend's bike has the new Stouts. Similar profile, but the Stouts are easier to fit a tire, don't hold the tire quite as solidly, are thicker, are stronger, and seem to be cheaper. (A good thing.)



    Ahh, got it. I'd say... if you have a compressor, it'll cost you maybe $40. Figure $15 for a set of Stan's valves, $25 for a thing of sealant, and a bit of time. No rim tape is needed on these.

    $100 seems high, but I could see $60-$80 being reasonable for the time+parts. I think I took ~15 minutes to do it on the two sets of wheels I've done.

    $100 seems about right for rims with cutouts that need taping and a bunch of fiddly work. The new Stouts don't need any of that, so it's a real easy job.

    Thanks for all the information.

  11. #11
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    I just picked up a 2017 Fatboy Carbon Comp and have the old wheels with the cutouts. These look interesting though the old one could be set up tubeless easily enough. I'm thinking of an all-new wheel build since I'm sure the hubs will call it quite soon enough.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    I just picked up a 2017 Fatboy Carbon Comp and have the old wheels with the cutouts. These look interesting though the old one could be set up tubeless easily enough. I'm thinking of an all-new wheel build since I'm sure the hubs will call it quite soon enough.
    Having tried to set up the old ones tubeless it was a PITA. Fatty Strippers were the only reliable way I could find to do it, and those get expensive when you want to swap tires occasionally.

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    Quote Originally Posted by c0nsumer View Post
    They are similar, but not the same. I have HED BAD on my bike, and my girlfriend's bike has the new Stouts. Similar profile, but the Stouts are easier to fit a tire, don't hold the tire quite as solidly, are thicker, are stronger, and seem to be cheaper. (A good thing.)
    Are the Stouts heavier or same weight as the BAD?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Are the Stouts heavier or same weight as the BAD?
    I do not know for sure, but I'm going to say heavier. Not much heavier, but heavier. Overall they felt lighter than the previous double-wall ones with cutouts, though.

    I've dented my HEDs and, given the option, I would choose the Stouts with DT 350 hubs over the HEDs.

    For reference, comparing the old hole-y wheelset from a 2016 Fatboy (orange), with Sunrace cassette, 160mm rotors, 4.0" Jumbo Jim Snakeskins, and tubes against the new solid wheelset with Eagle GX cassette, 160/180 rotors, 4.0" JJ SS, set up tubeless, the new wheelset is about a pound (per wheel) lighter.

  15. #15
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    Good point. I only used Fatty Strippers but one time. I am looking at building up another wheelset, so am researching stuff. Pretty set on DT rims (EDIT- I mean DT HUBS) but looking at good TLR rims. Thanks for the feedback.

    Quote Originally Posted by c0nsumer View Post
    Having tried to set up the old ones tubeless it was a PITA. Fatty Strippers were the only reliable way I could find to do it, and those get expensive when you want to swap tires occasionally.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    Good point. I only used Fatty Strippers but one time. I am looking at building up another wheelset, so am researching stuff. Pretty set on DT rims but looking at good TLR rims. Thanks for the feedback.
    I had DT rims before HED BADs and they were just as hard to set up as the Specialized hole-y ones. My personal recommendation would be DT hubs with 54 point ratchets and Specialized Stout rims, if you can find them separately. (Not sure if they are available or not; I haven't asked.) If you can't, HED BAD, but be very careful as a hard hit will bend the HEDs.

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    Sorry, I meant I was pretty set on DT hubs, not set on the rims. I am reasonably sure I will not find these solid Specialized rims separately so will have to look at other options. The HEDs do not sound like my first options, unless I cannot find anything else. While I am not an aggressive rider, I'm sure I'll eventually hit a rock or stump hard enough.

  18. #18
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    Just picked it up. Medium...28 lbs and some change with tubes, Specialized plastic pedals and one reflector.

    With some carbon bits, tubeless and lighter pedals I'm thinking 24-25 lbs might be doable.

    I know my last fat boy the tubes were almost 1lb each.

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    With some carbon bits, tubeless and lighter pedals I'm thinking 24-25 lbs might be doable.
    Very doable. My girlfriend's small, with the aluminum bar and post and bigger Ergons was 25.some with Eggbeaters and tubeleess. Go for a carbon bar and post (and stem?) and lighter saddle and you'll probably be under 25.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by c0nsumer View Post
    Very doable. My girlfriend's small, with the aluminum bar and post and bigger Ergons was 25.some with Eggbeaters and tubeleess. Go for a carbon bar and post (and stem?) and lighter saddle and you'll probably be under 25.
    That's the plan. My last aluminum fatboy had carbon bars, seatpost and a lighter seat and platform pedals. Planning to do the same on this one.



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  21. #21
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    Tubes are a bit heavy. Easily can lose 2lbs just going tubeless.



    Complete Wheel...


    Bars and seatpost and seat...





  22. #22
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    prj71....thanks posting your takeoff parts on the scale. I been thinking about getting this model of Fatboy.

    Look forward to your final build.

  23. #23
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    Hey prj71 what cranks came with your Fatboy? It was hard to see in picture. Thanks.


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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirt-nerd View Post
    Hey prj71 what cranks came with your Fatboy? It was hard to see in picture. Thanks.


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    Carbon Cranks. RaceFace Next R

    https://www.raceface.com/products/details/next-r

  25. #25
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    I only had one valve stem and enough sealant laying around to set up one of the tires tubeless over the weekend. What a piece of cake. Was able to set it up tubeless with just a hand pump.

    Made it out for the first ride over the weekend and put on 13 miles. Really liking this a lot better than the aluminum Fatboy I had.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018 Fatboy Carbon Comp + New Stout Solid Rims?-20171119_125653.jpg  


  26. #26
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    Coming to this post late!

    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I only had one valve stem and enough sealant laying around to set up one of the tires tubeless over the weekend. What a piece of cake. Was able to set it up tubeless with just a hand pump.

    Made it out for the first ride over the weekend and put on 13 miles. Really liking this a lot better than the aluminum Fatboy I had.
    So... I got the middle 2019 Fatboy for Christmas (my son bought it for me!). It has these solid Stout rims and the Ground Control Fat tires that do not state "tubeless ready" on them. Has removing the rim tape and tube and adding just the tubeless valve and sealant been working just fine for everyone over the last year and a half? Would love to know before I go for it. Cautious me would think that some sealing tape just wide enough to cover the nipples is at least needed.

    Rob

  27. #27
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    Pop one bead, pull the rim strip, reseat the bead - you are now tubeless! Rims and tires are 2bliss ready, just add sealant.

    Not necessary, but I drilled my rims for my preferred valve - schrader.

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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    Pop one bead, pull the rim strip, reseat the bead - you are now tubeless! Rims and tires are 2bliss ready, just add sealant.

    Not necessary, but I drilled my rims for my preferred valve - schrader.
    Thanks! So good to know. The LBS it came from and even Specialized Canada dare not go so far as to say that. Either ignorance or a liability issure. I'll give it a try this week. Can't wait!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rramsay View Post
    So... I got the middle 2019 Fatboy for Christmas (my son bought it for me!). It has these solid Stout rims and the Ground Control Fat tires that do not state "tubeless ready" on them. Has removing the rim tape and tube and adding just the tubeless valve and sealant been working just fine for everyone over the last year and a half? Would love to know before I go for it. Cautious me would think that some sealing tape just wide enough to cover the nipples is at least needed.

    Rob
    There is no rim tape. That is a protective strip to keep the spokes from poking the tube.

    You don't need to add any sealing tape. The spoke nipples are sealed with an o-ring.

    Just add valve and sealant and air them up.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    There is no rim tape. That is a protective strip to keep the spokes from poking the tube.

    You don't need to add any sealing tape. The spoke nipples are sealed with an o-ring.

    Just add valve and sealant and air them up.
    Thanks! That's great that the nipples are sealed. That will make for a great setup!

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    My LBS suggested I run one strip of tape to prevent sealant from contacting the nipples and causing corrosion. Thoughts? I had a set of I9 XC aluminum wheels that failed because the washers started breaking. After inspecting them my shop said they were corroded and breaking.

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    Your shop is silly.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffnology View Post
    My LBS suggested I run one strip of tape to prevent sealant from contacting the nipples and causing corrosion. Thoughts?
    I was cautioned the same by another fat biker. After one year with Orange Seal I installed a new front tire. There were sealant globules attached to each nipple head, but it cleaned off OK. The nipples appear to be brass and I did not see any corrosion. I did use tape when installing the new front tire, but a month later when installing a new rear tire, I did not use tape.

    Iíll see what they both look like in 6-9 months, but I donít think tape is needed here.

  34. #34
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    I'm on my fourth year on HED BADs (aluminum rim and nipple) without using tape. There's a little discoloration on the nipple, but it's been fine.

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    FWIW, last night I set up tubeless on my 2019 Fatboy $1900 model.
    It was a real pain to break the bead - I had to put on hiking boots and then step on the tire to get it off. That was the hardest part.
    I used 2oz of Stans in each wheel since it seems like it has such a good seal already.
    This AM, the front tire held air while the back did not. I re-inflated the back and dunked it in the tub. Air bubbles showed leaks from a couple of spoke holes. So, I used a plastic syringe to put some "no tubes" right on the two spoke nipples inside the rim. Now storing the wheel with one of the nipples in the "down" position so that the sealant stays at one of the nipples at least.
    I was expecting the no tubes to be much more viscous than it is!

    Even if this ultimately fails, I'm glad I tried because now I understand the wheel much better and that these stout rims are rather tricky to break the bead!
    Last edited by sandmaninator; 08-15-2020 at 07:02 AM.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    I was cautioned the same by another fat biker. After one year with Orange Seal I installed a new front tire. There were sealant globules attached to each nipple head, but it cleaned off OK. The nipples appear to be brass and I did not see any corrosion. I did use tape when installing the new front tire, but a month later when installing a new rear tire, I did not use tape.

    Iíll see what they both look like in 6-9 months, but I donít think tape is needed here.
    Well itís 9 months later ... howís it looking? Iíve bought a 2020 Fatboy Carbon comp early February, had LBS do tubeless before I picked it up.
    Come winter I desire to put 4.5Ē wide studded cake eaters on . This is my 2nd fat bike , my 14 and 16 year old use it riding with me.

    Consumer (Steve) , nice to see you here.
    Mike R


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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
    Well itís 9 months later ... howís it looking? Iíve bought a 2020 Fatboy Carbon comp early February, had LBS do tubeless before I picked it up.
    I have not had any reason to open them up - the Orange Seal is still juicy and flowing!

    Personally, I don't think you need to tape these just to isolate the nipples. While the sealant did coagulate on the nipples, they're brass and did not corrode.

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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank View Post
    I have not had any reason to open them up - the Orange Seal is still juicy and flowing!

    Personally, I don't think you need to tape these just to isolate the nipples. While the sealant did coagulate on the nipples, they're brass and did not corrode.
    Cool, good to know.
    Will be putting winter studded tires on these rims come November.


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    Still have sealant and air in my tires from 2018 when I changed them over to 45nrth Flowbeist and Dunderbeist.

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