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  1. #1
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    2017 Trek Farley 7 Tubeless Question

    I recently purchased a used Trek Farley 7 and was wondering what I need to get it converted to Tubeless?

    Stans No Tubes 35mm Presta Universal Valve Stem
    NoTubes Tire Sealant

    Would I need rim strips or since the tires are "tubeless ready" would they already be in? Pardon if this is a stupid question, I have never done a conversion and would like to learn how, and think I know how just not 100% sure which parts I need in terms of strips/tape.
    '17 Santa Cruz Bronson 2 A S
    '17 Trek Farley 7

  2. #2
    Rocking on a Rocky
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    You got to tape em if they are not taped.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  3. #3
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    I've had very good results from Scotch Transparent Tough Duct Tape.

    The following site does a good job describing the process.
    Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

    If your having trouble seating the tire, try using the tube.
    Carefully remove the tube, leaving one side of the tire seated...makes it easier.

  4. #4
    turtles make me hot
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    I like Truckerco valve stems much better than Stan's.
    I like turtles

  5. #5
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    the Mulefut rims are easily made tubeless. You need the rim strips, tubeless tape, valves and sealant.
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    Giant Trance Advanced 1
    Trek Farley 9.6 + Lauf
    Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    Scott Solace 10 Disc

  6. #6
    This place needs an enema
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    the Mulefut rims are easily made tubeless. You need the rim strips, tubeless tape, valves and sealant.

    And either a good friend to hold your hand through the process, or a willingness to burn half a day (possibly more?) while figuring it out.

  7. #7
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    Many people like Gorilla Duct Tape over the rim strip but I prefer tape actually made for Tubeless Conversions like Orange Seal Tape as it is super light weight, very stretchy, and creates a perfect air tight seal with only one wrapped layer. Gorilla tape is super heavy like almost as heavy at an inner tube.

    I find it very easy to get the tubeless fat tire beads to seal if you mount the tire and then take a spare mountain bike inner tube (no more than 2" wide) and stretch it over the outside diameter of your fat tire. inflate the inner tube a little which will squeeze the center of the Fat tire and push the tire's side walls out against the rim bead. You can then add air to the fat tire until the beads pop into place. 2" wide nylon tie down straps will work also.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    And either a good friend to hold your hand through the process, or a willingness to burn half a day (possibly more?) while figuring it out.
    Sorry but it's not rocket science. I've done a few sets of wheels, half of which didn't have "tubeless ready" rims and none took me more than and hour to set up. You just have to set yourself up for success by prepping the rim correctly with alchohol before taping and making sure the tire is seated as close to the bead as possible before putting air to it. All of mine have set up with a floor pump no problem.

  9. #9
    This place needs an enema
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUGlife View Post
    Sorry but it's not rocket science. I've done a few sets of wheels, half of which didn't have "tubeless ready" rims and none took me more than and hour to set up. You just have to set yourself up for success by prepping the rim correctly with alchohol before taping and making sure the tire is seated as close to the bead as possible before putting air to it. All of mine have set up with a floor pump no problem.

    No one said it was rocket science, nor even difficult. What I said was that it takes time and a bit of an understanding of some of the nuances. The rest of your post gets at that.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    the Mulefut rims are easily made tubeless. You need the rim strips, tubeless tape, valves and sealant.
    Does that mean the rim strip on the tire isn’t usable already?

    My assumption was a tubeless ready rim would mean:

    1. Rim strip present (is the one used by default not tubeless or something?)
    2. Tape (possibly present)
    3. Need stems
    4. Need sealant

    Again, not super concerned about doing it, I just want all the parts ready for when I open it up and not have it sitting for a few days while I wait for something I forgot to order.
    '17 Santa Cruz Bronson 2 A S
    '17 Trek Farley 7

  11. #11
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    No, ‘tubeless ready’ doesn’t mean tubeless-ready. You have to tape the Mulefuts, laying the tape over the Sunringle rim strip that’s already on the rim. Get the 78mm Sunringle tape, sealant, valves, and a Presta valve core removal tool. Stan’s has a kit that includes the syringe etc that does make the process easier. I converted the Mulefut 80s that are on my Farley EX8 last year. No problems.


    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EUjazEhVpfA

  12. #12
    sometime mtbr
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    I did a ghetto version on mine and have held up for two years. Saying that I'm about to go back to riding tubes, I can't honestly tell any difference but after going through all the work didn't want to admit it...lol

  13. #13
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    i bought actual Sun Ringle rim strips and tape. The rim strips were different than what came stock with my Farley 7
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    Giant Trance Advanced 1
    Trek Farley 9.6 + Lauf
    Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    Scott Solace 10 Disc

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    i bought actual Sun Ringle rim strips and tape. The rim strips were different than what came stock with my Farley 7
    On my 2017 Farley EX8, the black rim strips were already there...all I needed to do was tape over them. That was last winter. I noticed a big difference in acceleration effort...it improved my ability to maintain momentum and accelerate to climb the hills on our winter-groomed trails.

    After taping with the Sunringle tape and installing the Stan's valves, I seated the bead with an air compressor and added the appropriate amount of Stan's sealant. I rolled the wheels/tires around a bit and installed them. Since then, I've added about 2 oz of additional sealant when the rear tire got soft about mid-summer. Since then, it holds air just fine. I can't say that tubeless = magic, but I do think it's been an improvement and there really hasn't been a downside. It was a cheap addition and the Mulefut/Hodag combination has really been quite trouble-free.

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