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  1. #1
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    2012 Fatback

    Anyone have any word on what Fatback has brewing for 2012?

  2. #2
    How much does it weigh?
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    Probably the steel frame we have seen in the past.

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    direct-mount front derailleur?
    If Huffy made an airplane, would you fly in it?

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    5" wide tyres to keep ahead of Surly in the fatbike race?!?!?

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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Anyone have any word on what Fatback has brewing for 2012?
    We are loaded for bear for 2012. Frames-options, forks-oh yeah, rims-Uma has been working out-just to name a few.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

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    Can't wait to see the new crop!

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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    We are loaded for bear for 2012
    .44mag in the headtube

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    Quote Originally Posted by intheways View Post
    .44mag in the headtube
    In barends, that way it's just point and shoot!

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    Quote Originally Posted by intheways View Post
    .44mag in the headtube
    Bah, a real fat biker just sharpens his teeth...
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  10. #10
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    You all seen their new ad in Dirt Rag? 90mm UMA, Tapered Carbon fork, New Lightweight Hubs....sounds like pretty cool stuff.

  11. #11
    Lighten up.
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    Got a pic?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
    Got a pic?
    No it is just a small ad in the rear of the new issue of Dirt Rag (I get the iPad version) and it has no pictures. Probably have to wait for Interbike pictures...

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    90mm UMA sound's interesting...

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    Quote Originally Posted by ward View Post
    90mm UMA sound's interesting...
    Thirstywork posted more details in another thread.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAGI410 View Post
    Thirstywork posted more details in another thread.
    Any idea which one?

  16. #16
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    Jason
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  17. #17
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    Thanks

  18. #18
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    Picture doesn't capture the best part of the new rim.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Fatback-tf.jpg  


  19. #19
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    That rim is SICK!!! Guess its time to re-lace.

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    whoa! thats snazzy

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    So is there a new frame to go with that tapered fork?

  22. #22
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    I'm not generally a fan of carbon forks, but that's purdy!

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    That fork is purdy and it looks STOUT!

    So Pete, what is the best part of the rim that the picture did not capture? Beadlock? Weight? Tubeless ready?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Picture doesn't capture the best part of the new rim.
    Mouahahaha tubelesss!

  25. #25
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    A better look at the fork.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Fatback-fatback-tapered-carbon-fork-under-view.jpg  

    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

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    Will Speedway cycle keep both tapered and standard steerer tube fork?

  27. #27
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    Do you have any head on shots.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by igonzo128 View Post
    Will Speedway cycle keep both tapered and standard steerer tube fork?
    Yes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Fatback-fatback-carbon-fork-front-view-resize.jpg  

    Last edited by thirstywork; 08-28-2011 at 11:12 AM.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  29. #29
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    Just thinking about Super fat front options, 100mm rims and 4.5's
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  30. #30
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    2012 Fatback

    Will the next crop of frames due in be considered 2011 or 2012 products? Are there differences to distinguish them from previous frames?
    It would be interesting to learn what those folks planning new builds are considering, especially given the new tire and rims emerging.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Picture doesn't capture the best part of the new rim.
    What is the weight of the rims? How does it compare to the UMA 70mm or UMA 50mm.

    I am looking for the best lighness/width ratio

    Thanks!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    Will the next crop of frames due in be considered 2011 or 2012 products? Are there differences to distinguish them from previous frames?
    It would be interesting to learn what those folks planning new builds are considering, especially given the new tire and rims emerging.
    There are differences in the aluminum frames. This first shipment was ordered last April, so no clearance adjustments were made. They are considered 2011 product.
    The 2012 aluminum frames will have more clearance, and there will be an adjustable drop out option. We're also working on an adapter for those who just have to have internal hubs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Fatback-135mm-adapter-standard-drops_081111.jpg  

    Last edited by thirstywork; 09-22-2011 at 05:33 PM.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  33. #33
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    Mine would be a 2010 version (I think)... any info on BFL on 100's clearance on those yet? Got a feeling it's going to be tight... but I'd probably only use that set-up for sand and they shrink down quite a bit at low pressures. Love to try out the extra volume in the dunes! Not opposed at all to trimming tread on sand tires if it makes a difference.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    There are differences in the aluminum frames. This first shipment was ordered last April, so no clearance adjustments were made. They are considered 2011 product.
    The 2012 aluminum frames will have more clearance, and there will be an adjustable drop out option. We're also working on an adapter for those who just have to have internal hubs.
    THANK YOU
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    There are differences in the aluminum frames. This first shipment was ordered last April, so no clearance adjustments were made. They are considered 2011 product.
    The 2012 aluminum frames will have more clearance, and there will be an adjustable drop out option. We're also working on an adapter for those who just have to have internal hubs.
    Thanks for clarifying this info.

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    You Rock Fatback!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    There are differences in the aluminum frames. This first shipment was ordered last April, so no clearance adjustments were made. They are considered 2011 product.
    The 2012 aluminum frames will have more clearance, and there will be an adjustable drop out option. We're also working on an adapter for those who just have to have internal hubs.
    Can you explain "The 2012 aluminum frames will have more clearance," in the context of mounting BFLs? Specifically, rims and hubs and cranks,with the BFLs.

  38. #38
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    Shucks, Mr. Greg-sanÖ I may just have to re-enter my order for a Fatback afterall! Thanks for the info!!! Do the aluminum frames still come in anodised orange? Öalthough a radioactive monkeysnot green anodised colour would be intensely bitchin!!!
    Donít frail and blow if youíre going to Braille and Flow.

  39. #39
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    Anyone looking for a 22"? Sounds like it might be time to upgrade.
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    Will the adjustable dropout option allow you to shift the wheel and cassette further out to avoid chain rub when running BFL's on 90 or 100 mm rims?

    Seems like by allowing the sliding portion of slider dropouts to be mounted on either side of the dropout would allow you the flexibility to build your wheels with extra offset or regular.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leopold Porkstacker View Post
    although a radioactive monkeysnot green anodised colour would be intensely *****in!!!
    My head was spinning with thoughts of IGHs, tapered head tubes, adjustable HTAs etc....

    But now I just want this^ colour. Whatever the feck it is.

    Why dont you see many EBBs on Fatbikes? seems an adjustable BB height would fit well with the adjustable HTA. Slack'n'low for winter, steep'n'high for summer. Also gives a neat solution together with those 170 -> 135 rear width adaptors for IGH users.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smallfurry View Post
    My head was spinning with thoughts of IGHs, tapered head tubes, adjustable HTAs etc....

    Why dont you see many EBBs on Fatbikes? seems an adjustable BB height would fit well with the adjustable HTA. Slack'n'low for winter, steep'n'high for summer.
    Unless you have a 1.5" head tube you aren't going to get much out of an adjustable headset and the same with and adjustable BB. Unless the frame was built with it in mind the available conversion ebbs offer tiny adjustment.

    But I guess if you were building a frame it could be done, however there seems to be enough problems with ebbs that I would avoid them unless it was absolutely necessary i.e. SSs only.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Unless you have a 1.5" head tube you aren't going to get much out of an adjustable headset and the same with and adjustable BB. Unless the frame was built with it in mind the available conversion ebbs offer tiny adjustment.

    But I guess if you were building a frame it could be done, however there seems to be enough problems with ebbs that I would avoid them unless it was absolutely necessary i.e. SSs only.
    Not to mention the lack of any 100mm wide EBB cartridge inserts (the rotating part).

    Plum
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Unless you have a 1.5" head tube you aren't going to get much out of an adjustable headset and the same with and adjustable BB. Unless the frame was built with it in mind the available conversion ebbs offer tiny adjustment..
    True. Sounded more convincing in my head.

    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    But I guess if you were building a frame it could be done, however there seems to be enough problems with ebbs that I would avoid them unless it was absolutely necessary i.e. SSs only.
    TBH I would'nt put them on a winter bike unless I really needed to (IHG, SS). It'd be squeaking within the week.
    Quote Originally Posted by Plum View Post
    Not to mention the lack of any 100mm wide EBB cartridge inserts (the rotating part).
    Plum
    Fair point too.


    Thirsty work. Is it possible to pre-order a 2012 alu fatback frame+fork?

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    100 mm EBB

    With the Niner EBB and some longer bolts it could work. Assuming the frame was built with the correct shell.

  46. #46
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    Thirsty work. Is it possible to pre-order a 2012 alu fatback frame+fork?[/QUOTE]

    Yes. Give us a call.

    Another reason for the lack of ebb's is the fact that for the most part, we have all used E type derailleurs.

    Here is a pic of one that did though.
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    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  47. #47
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    With a Problem Solvers E46 BB and a PressFit 30x100mm BB shell one could build a bike that has the capability for single, geared, or internal.

    Problem Solvers | Eccentricity: Our E46 Prototype

    I considered this myself, but decided to put it on hold for a season. That and eccentrics tend to creak and have more issues than dropout systems.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMKM View Post
    I considered this myself, but decided to put it on hold for a season. That and eccentrics tend to creak and have more issues than dropout systems.
    I've heard good things (one of which from a mechanic I trust a lot) about the Carver EBB. I'm combining one with some Profile cranks to see how it goes.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev-Bot View Post
    With the Niner EBB and some longer bolts it could work. Assuming the frame was built with the correct shell.
    Re-reading this thread, and that is a good idea. I'm afraid of my spaced-out Profile crank + 68mm EBB approach having clearance issues. If it doesn't work out I might try your idea.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    Yes.
    Will tyhe new 100mm rims and 4.5' tire clear the 2011 Carbon fork?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggymancan View Post
    Will tyhe new 100mm rims and 4.5' tire clear the 2011 Carbon fork?
    Yes. The tire/rim combo measures about 110-111mm and the fork has 120mm of clearance.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  52. #52
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    Greg-

    Will the 2012's have the rear hub shifted further to the drive side similar to (but maybe not as far as) the Moonlander?

    If understand the frame geometry and dimensions of the 170mm hubs correctly, when the hub is centered on a frame with symetrical stays, the midpoint between the flanges is still offset to the non-drive side by a mere 3.5 mm. Seems like offsetting it to the drive side a similar amount (or a bit more) combined with a crank with offset spider like the MWOD might be enough clearance to run a full cassette with a Big Fat Larry with no reduction in wheel strength.

    You referenced interchangeable dropouts were an option on the 2012 Fatback. It seems like interchangeable dropouts with more or less offset would be an easy thing to accomodate, and would be able to provide those few critical millimeters needed to maximize the benefit of these huge tires.

    Keep up the innovation. I love the results!

  53. #53
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    The 3D model Greg posted looks like it includes a Mukluk style adapter for 135mm offset wheels. I didn't read anything about swappable dropouts. From everything I've read, the fatback frames already accept a BFL on a hundie with no interference.

  54. #54
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    He referred to adjustable dropouts and an adapter in the same post with the 3d rendering of the adapter.

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    Although the bfl and 100's fit, I thought you had to give up a couple gears.

    Am I mistaken?

  56. #56
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    Fatback wanted in Michigan!

    OK, so I'm trying to ramp-up my knowledge about fatbikes in preparation for ordering, and a 2012 aluminum Fatback is at the top of my list. Just a few questions:
    - what widths will be available for Speedway drilled rims? 70mm sounds like the best for year-round use (light weight & tire profile of an 80mm rim), and I saw mention of a 90mm rim for max flotation (tire profile of a 100mm rim); old website references an 80mm rim - wondering if it will be available for 2012 (i.e., w/ bead locks), if it provides the tire profile of a 90mm rim, how much it weighs vs. the 70mm, and are any/all widths more suitable for year-round use (competitors state their 80 & 100 rims are not suitable for XC trail riding)
    - is the "adjustable dropout" to provide chain tensioning for singlespeeding/IGHs, and what's the additional cost on an aluminum frame? If so I'm hoping to set it up dinglespeed to save some weight & avoid any chain/tire interference issues (no granny)
    - can the U.S.-made rear 170mm hub be ordered as bolt-on instead of QR?
    - will 120tpi kevlar bead Larry's, EM's, & BFL's be available w/ bike orders this fall?
    - besides black, can steel forks be ordered to color-match frames?
    - do import hubs come in different colors?
    - I see that Fatback forks will continue to also be available non-tapered, but I'm assuming all 2012 aluminum Fatback frames will have a tapered headtube?

    I'm also curious to see the colors available (not just a listing, but samples). I'm thinking blue (snow riding my lips will be blue to match ) w/ blue hubs. Then some blue reflective rim tape and I'll be ready to roll ...

    thx!
    winbert
    Last edited by winbert; 09-28-2011 at 03:27 PM.
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  57. #57
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    I'm was also planning (hoping) on a running a Fatback dinglespeed. But now I'm looking at a 1x10 set-up. I'm expecting to have to balance chainline and chain clearance with a BFL. I am not sure about this. But thought that a fat 44mm headtube would fit tapered or non tapered forks depending on headset.

    For XC use, its more of a rim design factor, than a rim width factor AFAIK.
    Last edited by Smallfurry; 09-28-2011 at 10:43 PM.

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    Some answers

    Widths available are 70 and 90. Surly makes the 80 mm Rolling Daryl. Iím not sure how weight compares between the 3. Iím partial to our rims due to the solid bead lock and just general over stiffness of the rim. The 80s mentioned on the site were the double-wall precursors to the Graceful Fat Sheba. The 70s kinda fill that spot for us now.

    We have a pretty sweet adjustable dropout, but it wonít be available this year. If youíre running a dinglespeed, I think youíll want to run some tensioning device like a Melvin anyway.

    Iím not sure what the prices for this years Al frames will be, but they are the less expensive option compared to steel and Ti

    The Hadley hubs can be changed from bolt on to QR very easily.

    I donít know what the availability will be on Kevlar beaded fat tires is. Maybe someone else on here has some insight on that.

    Steel forks can be painted to match. You could also get a carbon fork painted to match.

    Yes all the new Fatbacks are coming with tapered headtubes. We do have a fair amount of 2011 Ti and Al frames with regular 1 1/8 in stock though. As mentioned by smallfurry it is posible to run a reg fork with a headset adapter.


    We should have more pictures of new frames and colors up on our site in a few weeks.

    P


















    Quote Originally Posted by winbert View Post
    OK, so I'm trying to ramp-up my knowledge about fatbikes in preparation for ordering, and a 2012 aluminum Fatback is at the top of my list. Just a few questions:
    - what widths will be available for Speedway drilled rims? 70mm sounds like the best for year-round use (light weight & tire profile of an 80mm rim), and I saw mention of a 90mm rim for max flotation (tire profile of a 100mm rim); old website references an 80mm rim - wondering if it will be available for 2012 (i.e., w/ bead locks), if it provides the tire profile of a 90mm rim, how much it weighs vs. the 70mm, and are any/all widths more suitable for year-round use (competitors state their 80 & 100 rims are not suitable for XC trail riding)
    - is the "adjustable dropout" to provide chain tensioning for singlespeeding/IGHs, and what's the additional cost on an aluminum frame? If so I'm hoping to set it up dinglespeed to save some weight & avoid any chain/tire interference issues (no granny)
    - can the U.S.-made rear 170mm hub be ordered as bolt-on instead of QR?
    - will 120tpi kevlar bead Larry's, EM's, & BFL's be available w/ bike orders this fall?
    - besides black, can steel forks be ordered to color-match frames?
    - do import hubs come in different colors?
    - I see that Fatback forks will continue to also be available non-tapered, but I'm assuming all 2012 aluminum Fatback frames will have a tapered headtube?

    I'm also curious to see the colors available (not just a listing, but samples). I'm thinking blue (snow riding my lips will be blue to match ) w/ blue hubs. Then some blue reflective rim tape and I'll be ready to roll ...

    thx!
    winbert

  59. #59
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    is it just me or the fatbackbikes.com is not opening on safari?

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinsillo View Post
    is it just me or the fatbackbikes.com is not opening on safari?
    Worked fine for me on Safari.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    We have a pretty sweet adjustable dropout, but it wonít be available this year. If youíre running a dinglespeed, I think youíll want to run some tensioning device like a Melvin anyway.

    I donít know what the availability will be on Kevlar beaded fat tires is. Maybe someone else on here has some insight on that.

    We do have a fair amount of 2011 Ti and Al frames with regular 1 1/8 in stock though.

    We should have more pictures of new frames and colors up on our site in a few weeks.

    P
    Thanks pb, great info. FYI, when I run dinglespeed I always pick two chainring/cog combos w/ the same total teeth (e.g. 36x18 & 34x20) which results in roughly the same chain length so no tensioner req'd...

    In the design pic posted by Greg (showing the IGH adapter), the rear dropouts look very svelt - will that be the design for the new 2012 alu frames? I'm guessing the alu frames you have in stock have the more industrial looking dropout from last year?

    I just read here that the kevlar Nates were to be available yesterday per QBP, but sounds like the others will be later...

    thx!
    winbert
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

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  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonecrow View Post
    Worked fine for me on Safari.
    blocked in Mexico then?

    here at home it says the server is not responding

    ...i'll try at the office tomorrow...but then will be the internet police at office who won't let me

  63. #63
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    Nope...the same at the office...

  64. #64
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    Martin, don't worry yet, the site is still a few weeks away from being update.

  65. #65
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    Yep, new dropout is totally different form the previous frames.
    We should have those frames in stock in a few weeks.

    I'll try to get some pictures up of our pre-production frames we have at the warehouse in a few days.

    Sounds like you might be a good person for the tensioning dropout then. We want to put them through the paces a bit before we send them out there.

    P



    Quote Originally Posted by winbert View Post
    Thanks pb, great info. FYI, when I run dinglespeed I always pick two chainring/cog combos w/ the same total teeth (e.g. 36x18 & 34x20) which results in roughly the same chain length so no tensioner req'd...

    In the design pic posted by Greg (showing the IGH adapter), the rear dropouts look very svelt - will that be the design for the new 2012 alu frames? I'm guessing the alu frames you have in stock have the more industrial looking dropout from last year?

    I just read here that the kevlar Nates were to be available yesterday per QBP, but sounds like the others will be later...

    thx!
    winbert

  66. #66
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    Thanks again, pb. So now for the final question that will determine whether I wait for next year's adjustable dropout... (drumroll, please )

    What is the chainstay length of the new size Large (20") aluminum Fatback (center-to-center, BB shell to rear dropout)? That way I can use the FixMeUp! gear calculator to determine if the available magic-gears (whole # of links req'd without tensioner) are suitable for winter riding in Michigan!

    Oooo, I'm so excited.

    winbert
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

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  67. #67
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  68. #68
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    460mm
    Outstanding! According to FixMeUp, it appears there are some excellent low "magic" gear ratios for snow riding. Potential dinglespeed pairings would be:
    50-link chain = 34x21, 33x22, or 32x23
    51-link chain = 36x23, 35x24, or 34x25

    You must have planned that. Woohoo, I think I'm in!
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

    "A 29er's a greyhound, a 26er's a rabbit." - Miker J
    "My handlebars are real unusual looking too....so I am legit." - mward
    "Steel is real. Aluminum is real too, it just doesn't rhyme." - mward

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by winbert View Post
    Outstanding! According to FixMeUp, it appears there are some excellent low "magic" gear ratios for snow riding. Potential dinglespeed pairings would be:
    50-link chain = 34x21, 33x22, or 32x23
    51-link chain = 36x23, 35x24, or 34x25

    You must have planned that. Woohoo, I think I'm in!
    Sounds about right. I think seansalanch ran a 32X22 without a half link, and that was on 450mm stays. To gain the clearance we went to 460mm.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  70. #70
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    When is the new site coming up Boss. I gots ants in my pants with the snow working its way down the mountains.
    Still cleaning my Fatback.
    It's a life style.

  71. #71
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    ^
    and please let mexican IPs get in!

  72. #72
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    Just got myself a 2011 Fatback off of Craigslist. And felt the need to announce that on the internet. I can't remember the last time i was actually excited to see winter approaching.

  73. #73
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    Hmm, a few questions. Initially I was considering a Salsa Mukluk 3, but after reviewing their parts list and several posts about compatibility issues and lack of chain clearance, my thoughts swerved back to Fatback. One of the reasons I was interested in the Mukluk was it's ability to double as a touring bike and carry items on racks on both the front and the back. So, are there any known chain clearance issues with the Fatback and does it have the ability to carry a rack up front? I didn't notice any braze ons on the fork in pics, but maybe I missed something?

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by petey15 View Post
    Hmm, a few questions. Initially I was considering a Salsa Mukluk 3, but after reviewing their parts list and several posts about compatibility issues and lack of chain clearance, my thoughts swerved back to Fatback. One of the reasons I was interested in the Mukluk was it's ability to double as a touring bike and carry items on racks on both the front and the back. So, are there any known chain clearance issues with the Fatback and does it have the ability to carry a rack up front? I didn't notice any braze ons on the fork in pics, but maybe I missed something?
    The fork posted on here is the carbon one. Fatback also do a steel fork with the appropriate braze-ons for rack mounting.

  75. #75
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    You can always put a Salsa fork on your Fatback, too- the axle to crown dimensions are about the same.

  76. #76
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    Some pictures of the new frames here

    Fatback | Fatback Blog


    I'll try to get a few more up tomorrow.

    It is easy to run a reg 1 1/8 non tapered steerer fork on the tapered frames. Just requires a different headset race.

  77. #77
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    "I'll try to get a few more up tomorrow."

    Any chance of a few pics of an S&S'd Ti Fattie?
    If Huffy made an airplane, would you fly in it?

  78. #78
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    The new frames look awesome.

  79. #79
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    DirtRag says a thing or two about the 2012 Fatback!

    FatBack debuts made-in-USA aluminum frames | Dirt Rag Magazine

    Born and bred in Anchorage, Alaska, FatBack knows a thing or two about snow bikes. In a continued effort to bring as much of its manufacturing to the USA as possible, aluminum frames now join their steel and titanium counterparts in domestic production.

    Details include an oversized heatube, direct mount front derailleur, new dropouts, and clearance for Surly's new 4.5-inch Big Fat Larry tires.

  80. #80
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    OHHHH Boy I like it!! How much and when can I get one?

  81. #81
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    Wow! I like the looks of the new USA ALU frame!

  82. #82
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    Nice work. A very well thought out upgrade, by the looks of it.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Picture doesn't capture the best part of the new rim.
    Wow, I'm sooooo tempted right now!!!!

  84. #84
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    Few more pictures up here.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  85. #85
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    I can't tell is the down tube square, twisted, or round can't really tell in the pics? Ready to pull the trigger on a new 907 but this has really caught my eye, the pricing still has me nervous though. (for frame only)

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I can't tell is the down tube square, twisted, or round can't really tell in the pics? Ready to pull the trigger on a new 907 but this has really caught my eye, the pricing still has me nervous though. (for frame only)
    The down tube is shaped like a trapezoid. Pricing for a frame and carbon fork should be $1000 or so. Still waiting for our final costs on everything, but that will be close.
    Wish it were easier for all of you to test ride the bikes, but what can you do. I always suggest trying them all and see what suits you best.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    The down tube is shaped like a trapezoid. Pricing for a frame and carbon fork should be $1000 or so. Still waiting for our final costs on everything, but that will be close.
    Wish it were easier for all of you to test ride the bikes, but what can you do. I always suggest trying them all and see what suits you best.
    Thanks for the info!! I'm sure with the testing and care you put into you products it will perform great. Very excited to see the final specs and geo (at least TT length) when available and if the 135mm rear adapter will be available someday.

    Thanks again....Bob

  88. #88
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    I'm intersted in the complete bikes, will there be one with BFLs?

  89. #89
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    Does anyone have an idea on the seatpost size and if they run for a front der. on the 2012's
    Thanks.....Bob

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Does anyone have an idea on the seatpost size and if they run for a front der. on the 2012's
    Thanks.....Bob
    Seat post size is 30.9 on the US frames. Front der's can be e-type, or Sram S3. For the e-type, you remove the plate. We did this to work with the 90's or BFL's and the our new cranks due out next week.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Some pictures of the new frames here
    Fatback | Fatback Blog
    Great news that aluminum frame construction is moving to the US! But no blue yet?? I had my heart set on a blue frame to go w/ blue Hadley-made hubs (paired w/ 70mm tubeless Fatback rims w/ blue reflective rim tape). So is the "raw" finish ready for custom painting/powder-coating/anodizing, or does it have a clear coating?


    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    Pricing for a frame and carbon fork should be $1000 or so.
    Sounds great! (as long as I don't have to wait until mid-winter for that gorgeous blue )

    Like bdundee, I'm also curious to see the latest geometry to make a final decision on size.

    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    our new cranks due out next week.
    Oooo, something other than the Fatback E13's? Presumably MWOD-ish to give tire clearance for 2x9 w/ BFL's on 90/100's...

    Sweet!
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

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    "My handlebars are real unusual looking too....so I am legit." - mward
    "Steel is real. Aluminum is real too, it just doesn't rhyme." - mward

  92. #92
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    I wouldn't mind getting an order in but I need a few geo numbers first, at least seat tube, effective top tube, and stand over height.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I wouldn't mind getting an order in but I need a few geo numbers first, at least seat tube, effective top tube, and stand over height.
    Seat tubes are 73*. HT is 69*
    Effective tt for a 16" 23.25" SO 28"
    18" 24.2" SO 29"
    20" 25" SO 30.75"
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    Seat tubes are 73*. HT is 69*
    Effective tt for a 16" 23.25" SO 28"
    18" 24.2" SO 29"
    20" 25" SO 30.75"
    Oh crappp!! I am in between sizes again, being 5'8" with a 32" inseam I run out of seatpost on a 16" and the 18" has a too long of an effective tt for my short torso. What to do?

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Oh crappp!! I am in between sizes again, being 5'8" with a 32" inseam I run out of seatpost on a 16" and the 18" has a too long of an effective tt for my short torso. What to do?
    I also appear to be between sizes, being 6'1" (34" inseam) and having typically ridden 20" frames w/ 24.5" ETT's. There seem to be some varying opinions on these forums (as expected), but from what I've gathered from Speedway's comments their ETT's should be expected to be a bit longer than what we might normally ride due to the nature of their design (e.g., more upright riding position, taller headtube, slacker headtubes, etc.)?

    Can anyone speak with more authority on this?

    thx,
    winbert
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

    "A 29er's a greyhound, a 26er's a rabbit." - Miker J
    "My handlebars are real unusual looking too....so I am legit." - mward
    "Steel is real. Aluminum is real too, it just doesn't rhyme." - mward

  96. #96
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    I did some measuring and at 5'8" on a 16" I will have about 1/4" before max left on a 410mm Thomson seat post and on a 18" I will have a 1+ inch longer ETT then my current fatty and 1/2 inch longer then my stretched out Niner. I really like these new frames and don't know what to do!!

  97. #97
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    Run a shorter stem mr. long legs? ;p Can you get away with a 40-50mm stem?

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordyB View Post
    Run a shorter stem mr. long legs? ;p Can you get away with a 40-50mm stem?
    Yeah I guess I could go down to a 70mm stem that would only put me a 1/4 longer then I am now. It's not that my legs are that long but something with my hips and where my socket is makes me run a very high seat;^)

    I have never run a short stem would it feel weird?

  99. #99
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    50mm stem - how will that affect handling on the Fatback?

    Quote Originally Posted by JordyB View Post
    Run a shorter stem mr. long legs? ;p Can you get away with a 40-50mm stem?
    I'm in the same boat as Mr. LongLegs but would be looking at a 20" with the 25" effective top tube. Test rode an 18" and it fit (a bit cramped) but had A Lot of seatpost exposed in order to get decent leg extension and would realistically set the seatpost even higher once I got used to the bike. Underwent a bike fitting about a weak ago and they noted that I could be on a 21" for some mfrs but that I would have to be careful with the effective top tube length. I am curious if anyone is running a shorter stem on a fatback or any other fat bike for that matter and how it affected the bike's handling??
    Thanks,

  100. #100
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    How is the seattube measured on the new frames , center to top of seattube or center to top of toptube? Why I ask is my old AL fatback is a 18" & when I measure it ,it measures 18" center to top of toptube with another 1" up to the seat clamp.So if thats the case with the new frames a 16" would measure 17" center to top of the clamp & 18" would be 19" & so on.I`am 5'9" with a long inseam little over 33" & my old 18" fits pretty good but the new 18" with a 24.2 eftt might be a little long for me? I kind of like a EFTT for me to be around 23.7 range.I also not sure of what size I would be,I think some of us may need some help from speedway on this one?

  101. #101
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    I'm running the shortest, most upright stem I could find because I have the same issues with the Ti Fatbacks I have...the 16 is too big and the 14 too small...GREAT bikes, but it is an ongoing process trying to figure out how to make either of them fit...handling and quality of both bikes is stellar, they just don't fit my proportions...

    -I don't know how much a short stem has really affected handling of the 16...with the Ti Blacksheep fork it seems to handle perfectly...though maybe a bit slow to corner?

    My solution may be to sell off what I have and start over with a fitted Ti...with S&S's of course...maybe this fall, maybe this coming summer...
    If Huffy made an airplane, would you fly in it?

  102. #102
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    +1 Thirstywork please HELP on this!!

  103. #103
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    I was also in this predicament. At 5' 9" (barefoot) w/ a 31" inseam I also tried to size myself right between the 16" and 18". I spoke to Greg at Speedway and he assured me I was not a 16" He's probably banging his head against the wall right now, as this seems to be a common mis-assumtion for most people using the ETT for sizing on his bikes. He does have a long scientific explanation as to why we shouldn't go off of that alone to determine which frame size. I test rode an 18" and purchased the 18" (Ti). I'll leave it to Greg to explain it.

  104. #104
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    I've been looking closely at the 5 photos recently posted on Fatback's Blog. There are also higher rez pics (1624 ◊ 1722) linked above each image. They might offer some clues.

  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANYRIDE View Post
    I was also in this predicament. At 5' 9" (barefoot) w/ a 31" inseam I also tried to size myself right between the 16" and 18". I spoke to Greg at Speedway and he assured me I was not a 16" He's probably banging his head against the wall right now, as this seems to be a common mis-assumtion for most people using the ETT for sizing on his bikes. He does have a long scientific explanation as to why we shouldn't go off of that alone to determine which frame size. I test rode an 18" and purchased the 18" (Ti). I'll leave it to Greg to explain it.
    Anybody have any ideas on this? Would like to know some reasoning behind the geo Fatback uses before jumping into one.

  106. #106
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    Idea!

    Quote Originally Posted by KP snowman View Post
    How is the seattube measured on the new frames, center to top of seattube or center to top of toptube?
    This is a great point. A 25" eff. top tube seems long for a 20" center-to-top-of-seat-tube frame (especially a frame w/ a bent top tube for extra stand over), but would be much more "normal" if the 20" frame (center-to-top-of-top-tube or center-to-center-of-top-tube) is really 21+" center-to-top-of-seat-tube...
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

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    "My handlebars are real unusual looking too....so I am legit." - mward
    "Steel is real. Aluminum is real too, it just doesn't rhyme." - mward

  107. #107
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    I'm 5'8" with a 32" pants inseam. I ordered an 18" ti Fatback frame initially because a Medium Heckler and a couple of 18" Surly frames (1x1 and Big Dummy) preceded the Fatback build.

    But.. after a couple of last-minute chats with the guys at Speedway, I took their recommendation to go with a 16". I can tell ya that a couple of quick rides on the freshly-built 16" told me I'd made the right choice. She's tight and twitchy, just the way I like it.

    Size reference shot for what it's worth: a pretty straight-on profile picture of me behind her (in 29'er mode):


  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
    I'm 5'8" with a 32" pants inseam. I ordered an 18" ti Fatback frame initially because a Medium Heckler and a couple of 18" Surly frames (1x1 and Big Dummy) preceded the Fatback build.

    But.. after a couple of last-minute chats with the guys at Speedway, I took their recommendation to go with a 16". I can tell ya that a couple of quick rides on the freshly-built 16" told me I'd made the right choice. She's tight and twitchy, just the way I like it.

    Size reference shot for what it's worth: a pretty straight-on profile picture of me behind her (in 29'er mode):

    Thanks.....but now I called Speedway and I am the same size as you but maybe run a little higher post height and the dude told me to get a 18". I am so confused.

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Thanks.....but now I called Speedway and I am the same size as you but maybe run a little higher post height and the dude told me to get a 18". I am so confused.
    No doubt. I'm guessing you could do an 18. I'm sure it would have been OK for me, also, but without a test ride, I had to pick something. Like I mentioned above, the 16" is tight and twitchy for me. If this helps, here are more specifics measurements for me (for comparison's sake beyond the general height/inseam numbers):

    Height: 67.75 inches
    Sternal Notch: 55.75
    Inseam: 32.85
    Arm Length: 20.45
    Thigh: 23.5
    Lower Leg: 21.33
    Shoulders: 15.75

    Not sure if you've had those measurements taken, but I've found 'em handy to have when sizing bikes.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
    No doubt. I'm guessing you could do an 18. I'm sure it would have been OK for me, also, but without a test ride, I had to pick something. Like I mentioned above, the 16" is tight and twitchy for me. If this helps, here are more specifics measurements for me (for comparison's sake beyond the general height/inseam numbers):

    Height: 67.75 inches
    Sternal Notch: 55.75
    Inseam: 32.85
    Arm Length: 20.45
    Thigh: 23.5
    Lower Leg: 21.33
    Shoulders: 15.75

    Not sure if you've had those measurements taken, but I've found 'em handy to have when sizing bikes.
    Thanks!!!! I guess what will make the difference is how they measure the seat tube, if its' at the TT or at the top of the seat tube itself. That will make the difference if I run out of seatpost. I sure wish someone from Speedway would chime in on this

  111. #111
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    As an 18" Fatback rider at 5'10" and 30" inseam I believe both frame sizes will work for you and that it is more of a function of your intended use which may sway a size decision. I came to Fat riding by road winter riding and I favor open snow trails so I wanted the long distance comfort of the 18". If I built it for the local singletrack trails, I would have gone with the 16" for tighter handling reasons similar to what Mangoman was saying, I think.

  112. #112
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    I tell folks to ride the biggest frame they can stand over comfortably. Keep in mind that mostly we're selling to snow customers, so quick handling is not a priority.
    The reason for the longer ett's is the taller head tube.
    That being said, you wouldn't run out of post on a 16 since the top tube is bent instead of radically sloped. A 400mm would get you there.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    I tell folks to ride the biggest frame they can stand over comfortably. Keep in mind that mostly we're selling to snow customers, so quick handling is not a priority.
    The reason for the longer ett's is the taller head tube.
    That being said, you wouldn't run out of post on a 16 since the top tube is bent instead of radically sloped. A 400mm would get you there.
    Thanks!! Do you happen to know if your new frames (seat tube Length) are measured from the top of the seat tube or the top of the top tube? I would like to get one (frame/carbon fork) preordered before I chicken out.
    Thanks....Bob

    you wouldn't run out of post on a 16 since the top tube is bent instead of radically sloped

    I'm confused by that. (simple minded)
    Oh yeah and I prefer a size I can throw around on single track more then stability in snow.
    Last edited by bdundee; 10-25-2011 at 07:47 PM.

  114. #114
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    From FatbackBikes Blog tonight: See blog post for diagram!

    geometry | Fatback
    Here is a diagram which shows why we have longer effective top tubes than our competitors, as well as most current mtbs. With the taller head tubes, the rider is pushed into an up right position. We lengthen the top tubes to put the rider back where they should be. The reason for the bent top tubes is shown as well. More stand over without maxing out your seat post.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    you wouldn't run out of post on a 16 since the top tube is bent instead of radically sloped

    I'm confused by that. (simple minded).
    Basically by bending the top tube back upwards to the seattube. You get a longer seat tube for a given standover. So you need less post.

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smallfurry View Post
    Basically by bending the top tube back upwards to the seattube. You get a longer seat tube for a given standover. So you need less post.
    Cool but isn't a 16" seat tube a 16" seat tube no matter what the top tube looks like and wouldn't I need the same amount of post to get my leg extension right with the bottom stroke of the pedals?

  117. #117
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    Still really need to know if the actual seatpost tube is 16" to the top or at the top tube?

  118. #118
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    I'm 6'4" with a 35.5" inseam. I ride a 20" Fatback. I have a bmx and trials('i' before 'a') background, and prefer a faster handling bike. I've never had comfort issues on my Fatback, even on long multiday rides/races, using a 100mm stem. I'm sure I could fit on a 22" just fine, but experience has told me that I prefer to be on the smaller end of my range of frame sizes.

  119. #119
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    The seat tube length of a 16" frame is 16 3/4". Measured from the center of bb to top of top tube, it's about 15". The top tube length and rider position is why it's a 16.
    For an 18, the seat tube length is 18 1/4". Center of bb to top of top tube is 16 3/4".
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  120. #120
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    How are the IGH adaptors comming along please ?
    Life IS a Beach and then you Corrode :)

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    The seat tube length of a 16" frame is 16 3/4". Measured from the center of bb to top of top tube, it's about 15". The top tube length and rider position is why it's a 16.
    For an 18, the seat tube length is 18 1/4". Center of bb to top of top tube is 16 3/4".
    Great info - can you please share the same specs for the 20" frame? Thx!
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

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  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    I tell folks to ride the biggest frame they can stand over comfortably. Keep in mind that mostly we're selling to snow customers, so quick handling is not a priority.
    Hi Thirstywork. I was wondering if you could answer a few questions for me.

    Where on the frame do you measure the stand over height? At the top of the bend in the top tube?

    I am 6'1" with 32" inseam. My recent FS bikes have all be 19" seat tubes with approx 24.5 ETT and 80mm stem. Would you recommend an 18 or 20 for an all around bike that will see more trail than snow? This will end up being a winter mud & snow/spring thaw bike, and possibly see some summer bike packing adventures. Thinking about running 70mm rims & Nates.

    How would you describe the handling of your bikes? I prefer 26" AM full suspension style bikes with 68 to 66 degree head angles. The only fat bike I have ridden is a new large Mukluk 3. The Mukaluk was fun to ride but I noticed the front was very difficult to lift while riding. It also felt a little too quick when riding over a section of large tree roots. Overall I thought is was good, but it did not encourage aggressive riding.

    Maybe I am expecting too much from a rigid bike with floatation tires? I am ok with slowing down and just getting out in the winter for some good pedaling and keep the aggressive stuff for summer.

    Thanks!
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  123. #123
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    Sweeet! Then if I'm looking at it right the 16" has a 1/4" longer ett then my 907 (2011) with the same size head tube and 10mm shorter chain stays on the Fatback. I really like the fit on my 907 so I should be golden on the 16" Fatback!

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Feelygood ! View Post
    How are the IGH adaptors comming along please ?
    The machine shop is in the middle of a move currently, so no eta yet.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  125. #125
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    The 20 has a seat tube length of 20 1/4, with a center to top of 18 /3/4.
    This will all be posted when the new site goes live.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  126. #126
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    Thanks everyone my order is in!!!

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Thanks everyone my order is in!!!
    Congratulations! What color did you get?

    I'm still curious if the "raw" is bare aluminum (e.g., ready for custom painting/powdercoating/anodizing) or has some clear coating...
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

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  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by winbert View Post
    I'm still curious if the "raw" is bare aluminum (e.g., ready for custom painting/powdercoating/anodizing) or has some clear coating...

    My 2011 came with a clearcoat...



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by redline814 View Post
    My 2011 came with a clearcoat...



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    That's a nice looking frame...
    Safe riding,

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  130. #130
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    Thanks!!

    Quote Originally Posted by winbert View Post
    Congratulations! What color did you get?
    I ordered the orange kinda my signature. Last year I sold my pugs before getting my 907, not this year. I will keep th 907 until my new one gets here and I hope I went with the right size. Now the dreaded wait
    Last edited by bdundee; 10-27-2011 at 05:28 PM.

  131. #131
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    When are the 2012 bikes going to be available?

  132. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    and the our new cranks due out next week.

    I'm hoping it is a Middleburn so I can run a good bottom bracket.

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by MqtMtnBkr View Post
    When are the 2012 bikes going to be available?
    All the bikes we are selling are 2012, even the imported aluminum frames. Lead times can be as long as six months, so product ordered in the spring was not designed to take the BFL's. Making that change added time, so that is where we are at the moment. We should see the US frames in November.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  134. #134
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    Will the new frames in November have some changes to move the chainline further out in consideration of running bfl's?

  135. #135
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    Thanks for all the good info about the 2012 bikes. In your last blog post, you mentioned you've been running the new 90mm rims tubeless. Can you give us more info on these rims? What does it take to get them tubeless (besides Stan's sealant)?

    Thanks!

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonlikesbikes View Post
    Thanks for all the good info about the 2012 bikes. In your last blog post, you mentioned you've been running the new 90mm rims tubeless. Can you give us more info on these rims? What does it take to get them tubeless (besides Stan's sealant)?

    Thanks!
    MCM had some great info from speedway that he shared when he went tubeless found here: http://forums.mtbr.com/8528835-post54.html

  137. #137
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    Getting the pieces together for the U.S. Fatback frame with a Taper carbon fork and all I've ever messed with is standard headsets. Does anyone know what kind I need for the new frames (integrated semi integrated)?

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Getting the pieces together for the U.S. Fatback frame with a Taper carbon fork and all I've ever messed with is standard headsets. Does anyone know what kind I need for the new frames (integrated semi integrated)?
    With a tapered steer tube you will need an external cup lower. The upper could be internal or external depending on head tube size and your preferences. Beware, there are a number of different internal head tube ID standards. You will want to know the inside diameter of the upper and lower head tube before you order the headset. Chris King's website now has good info on this subject.

    EDIT: Thanks Thirstywork. I did not know about the 56mm lower taper. Learn something new every day.
    Last edited by bubba13; 10-31-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    With a tapered steer tube you will need an external cup lower. The upper could be internal or external depending on head tube size and your preferences. Beware, there are a number of different internal head tube ID standards. You will want to know the inside diameter of the upper and lower head tube before you order the headset. Chris King's website now has good info on this subject.
    On ti frames we use the new standard 44mm head tube. Internal upper, external lower. King and Cane Creek make them, though they are sold separately from CC.
    The US aluminum frames use a ZeroStack headset. 44mm top, 56 bottom, all internal. There are crown race reducers if you have a 1 1/8" fork.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  140. #140
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    2012 Ti Driveside Chainstay Teaser!


    2012 Ti 44mm HeadTube with a CC40 Headset and Carbon Tapered Fork:


    Sorry for the cell phone/train table pictures! ;p

  141. #141
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    where's the rest of the bike? we need pictures
    litespeed's break

  142. #142
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    This looks like the best place to get Fatback answers from the source. I've read through the thread, but have to admit I'm still a wee bit confused. I just ordered a Ti Fatback 16" that I believe is "on the barge" to Anchorage. So, the question is - before I begin madly ordering parts to build it up - will it be a tapered head tube or not? The second question is - can the barge make a quick stop in Skagway, so I can do an en route pick up?



    Mrs. North of 60 | Just a girl who lives in the Yukon and loves to ride bikes

  143. #143
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    [QUOTE=slvander;8583027]This looks like the best place to get Fatback answers from the source. I've read through the thread, but have to admit I'm still a wee bit confused. I just ordered a Ti Fatback 16" that I believe is "on the barge" to Anchorage. So, the question is - before I begin madly ordering parts to build it up - will it be a tapered head tube or not? The second question is - can the barge make a quick stop in Skagway, so I can do an en route pick up?


    Yes to the tapered head tube. No to the mid way p/u. Most of the frames were shipped using a freight forwarder to keep the cost reasonable. Shouldn't be long though.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvander View Post
    This looks like the best place to get Fatback answers from the source. I've read through the thread, but have to admit I'm still a wee bit confused. I just ordered a Ti Fatback 16" that I believe is "on the barge" to Anchorage. So, the question is - before I begin madly ordering parts to build it up - will it be a tapered head tube or not? The second question is - can the barge make a quick stop in Skagway, so I can do an en route pick up?



    Mrs. North of 60 | Just a girl who lives in the Yukon and loves to ride bikes
    ill pick it up for you right here in anchorage!
    litespeed's break

  145. #145
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    Awesome - thanks for the info. I guess the pain of living in Whitehorse will always be that you are sooooo very close to Alaska, but everything American just passes you by on the highway or on the ocean. Good thing I have so many Anchorage friends to help get my bike here.

    Fatbacks have a good buzz here in the Yukon and snow bikes are exploding here. There were only 3, four years ago and 2 belonged to my husband and I. Now there's at least 25; and we're starting our first race series through the winter.

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvander View Post
    Fatbacks have a good buzz here in the Yukon and snow bikes are exploding here. There were only 3, four years ago and 2 belonged to my husband and I. Now there's at least 25; and we're starting our first race series through the winter.
    Great to hear...
    safe riding,

    Vik
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  147. #147
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    Here in Wisconsin, if you mention "Fatbike" or "snowbike" everyone instantly starts talking about Surly Pugsley or Moonlander, most people, meaning mechanics and LBS employees have never even heard of Fatback! (I own a '11 Pugs, which is a lot of fun, as well as an '09 Big Dummy-I'm a big Surly supporter needless to say), but I think the money, as a bicycle "RACER", is on the Fatback. Symmetrical, swagged stays, stiffer/lighter 7000 series aluminum, U.S. made Hadley hubs, house carbon forks, etc. And now the newest generation, (of frames), is U.S. made?!!! It shouldn't be long before Fatback/Speedway is the leading force, and deservedly so- as snow-bike racing gains popularity. No doubt. Kudos to Greg/Speedway/Fatback. Here's to doing the right thing and moving forward.
    "Go that way REAL FAST, if something gets in your way... turn".

  148. #148
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    /\/\/\ I agree, seems they have everything more sorted than the competition. For starters, they need a decent website (supposedly coming). I've found it somewhat cryptic in dealing with these guys. I get different information from different people. I'd like to give them my business, but they make it more difficult than it should be. That said, I'm hoping to order a 2012 frame when they arrive.

  149. #149
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    Highrustler

    I couldn't agree more. That has been a big problem and we are working to fix that.
    We're all shop guys not web designers and business degrees, so the last few years have been a learning experience.

    We have lots of great new product coming and we'll be set up so you can order complete bikes online any day now.

    Here's a picture of a new crank we have.

    Chainline is improved a bit and allows room for adjustment.
    Also the bb bearings are already speced with low temp grease. Apologies if it has already been posted on here somewhere.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Fatback-new-crank.jpg  


  150. #150
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    That's a double crankset, right? Sorry...feel like I'm seeing the obvious, but just need to verify so I can figure out how to finance it...


  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Highrustler

    I couldn't agree more. That has been a big problem and we are working to fix that.
    We're all shop guys not web designers and business degrees, so the last few years have been a learning experience.

    We have lots of great new product coming and we'll be set up so you can order complete bikes online any day now.

    Here's a picture of a new crank we have.

    Chainline is improved a bit and allows room for adjustment.
    Also the bb bearings are already speced with low temp grease. Apologies if it has already been posted on here somewhere.
    Nice now the big ? How much?

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler View Post
    /\/\/\ I agree, seems they have everything more sorted than the competition. For starters, they need a decent website (supposedly coming). I've found it somewhat cryptic in dealing with these guys. I get different information from different people. I'd like to give them my business, but they make it more difficult than it should be. That said, I'm hoping to order a 2012 frame when they arrive.
    +1, for all especally what's in red

    I want to order a 2012 complete bike or frame with only certain components. I'll gladely take the first 20" complete, if given a decent date.
    Last edited by GTR2ebike; 10-31-2011 at 12:08 PM.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Nice now the big ? How much?
    The new cranks are $250. The grease has a -50F rating, but we have not been able to do any of our own testing other than the freezer. So far, so good.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    The new cranks are $250. The grease has a -50F rating, but we have not been able to do any of our own testing other than the freezer. So far, so good.
    If those are doubles, count me in for a set.

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    The new cranks are $250. The grease has a -50F rating, but we have not been able to do any of our own testing other than the freezer. So far, so good.
    You didn't put Pete in a walk in freezer on a trainer did you?

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    The new cranks are $250. The grease has a -50F rating, but we have not been able to do any of our own testing other than the freezer. So far, so good.
    Sounds/looks excellent, but are they available in 180mm length??
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

    "A 29er's a greyhound, a 26er's a rabbit." - Miker J
    "My handlebars are real unusual looking too....so I am legit." - mward
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  157. #157
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    I got a chance to see the preproduction samples at Speedway Cycles. Nice!! Here is a little on my Blog. Bike Packing Blog
    Some bad cell phone pics but still very nice Bikes.
    Please support "Sharing the PCT"
    http://www.sharingthepct.org

  158. #158
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    Is the crank a V Drive MegaExo AM with 100mm width? If so, the nice thing about MegaExo vs the E Thirteen offering is that MegaExo uses a 24mm spindle diameter, and there will be more options for replacement bearings.
    Disclaimer: ComCycle USA

  159. #159
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    Its nice to see the built in bash guard, speaking as a rider who has four deep chainring scars in his calf. Thanks Wayne! In case anyone is wondering, you get real high on Tri-Flow! Any chance it comes in 180mm? Does anyone know when the 2012 aluminum raw xl frames will be available? Bring on the Snow!
    "Go that way REAL FAST, if something gets in your way... turn".

  160. #160
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    winbert & johnny settle,
    Don't want to stray OT, but why this interest for 180mm cranks? Would not shorter arms be preferred (generally speaking)? At 5'10, I plan on going 170mm with the e13s. The timing of this new crank is great as it spices the options ahead of my build. But why prefer the longer cranks? Is this based on height?

  161. #161
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    I have a set of 180 Race Face Turbine LP's I have for sale.
    Not currently in my ad, but I'll tack them on.

    Black 180mm 5 arm
    (can't remember the BCD right now. I'll edit when I get home)

  162. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    why this interest for 180mm cranks?
    I'm hoping to setup my fatbike as a singlespeed, plus w/ the heavier wheels/tires the extra leverage will be much appreciated. With apparently long femurs, I've enjoyed running 185 & 190mm cranks on my 29er singlespeed. But am worried about ground clearance on a fatbike w/ anything longer than 180's...

    winbert
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

    "A 29er's a greyhound, a 26er's a rabbit." - Miker J
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    "Steel is real. Aluminum is real too, it just doesn't rhyme." - mward

  163. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    winbert & johnny settle,
    Don't want to stray OT, but why this interest for 180mm cranks? Would not shorter arms be preferred (generally speaking)? At 5'10, I plan on going 170mm with the e13s. The timing of this new crank is great as it spices the options ahead of my build. But why prefer the longer cranks? Is this based on height?
    You know it. I have 180's on 5 diff. bikes. Switched to 180mm. about ten years ago. I'm 6'3" with longer legs. The 180's give me good torque/leverage and I have no problem spinning them. That new Fatback FSA is a fine looking crank but if it does not come in a 180mm. I'll probably go with Mr. Whirly, (which also comes in a 185). Its all proportionate. (I also run 46cm c to c bars on the road bike).
    Last edited by johnny settle; 10-31-2011 at 06:21 PM.
    "Go that way REAL FAST, if something gets in your way... turn".

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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Highrustler

    I couldn't agree more. That has been a big problem and we are working to fix that.
    We're all shop guys not web designers and business degrees, so the last few years have been a learning experience.

    We have lots of great new product coming and we'll be set up so you can order complete bikes online any day now.

    Here's a picture of a new crank we have.

    Chainline is improved a bit and allows room for adjustment.
    Also the bb bearings are already speced with low temp grease. Apologies if it has already been posted on here somewhere.
    weight of the new crankset? also can it be run as a triple by replacing the bash guard?
    litespeed's break

  165. #165
    Rednose/Greenback
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    Thanks for clarifying the longer crank preferences...I suspected gazelles all along.

  166. #166
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    Does anyone have a pic of the current generation Fatback steel 135mm fork they have listed for $150?

    Any restriction on which hubs you can use? I've got a Surly 135mm fixed gear disc rear hub I'd like to use since it's paid for rather than buy a new hub.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Does anyone have a pic of the current generation Fatback steel 135mm fork they have listed for $150?

    Any restriction on which hubs you can use? I've got a Surly 135mm fixed gear disc rear hub I'd like to use since it's paid for rather than buy a new hub.
    I have one on my 907 and I use the Surly 135mm front hub with rear disk spacing (which I believe is the same hub you have but with no threads). The fork is an I.S. mount so you can space the caliper adapter out a little, I have been running this for a year with no problems.

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I have one on my 907 and I use the Surly 135mm front hub with rear disk spacing (which I believe is the same hub you have but with no threads). The fork is an I.S. mount so you can space the caliper adapter out a little, I have been running this for a year with no problems.
    My disc hub is a rear fixed gear hub so I'm probably out of luck.

    One of the hassles of the fat tire game - so many options and so many incompatible wheels... It would be really nice to swap expensive wheels between fat bikes of different brands...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    My disc hub is a rear fixed gear hub so I'm probably out of luck.

    One of the hassles of the fat tire game - so many options and so many incompatible wheels... It would be really nice to swap expensive wheels between fat bikes of different brands...
    You can run the Surly hub on our Fatback fork. You just space the brake caliper.
    On our imported front hubs, you can flip the axle to run either front or rear spacing. Surly uses a rear hub disc rotor spacing in the front because they already make that hub. I had front disc spacing hubs made because I did not. No knock on Surly, as they recognized early on the beauty of the wide front hub. Those guys are awesome.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    You can run the Surly hub on our Fatback fork. You just space the brake caliper.
    On our imported front hubs, you can flip the axle to run either front or rear spacing. Surly uses a rear hub disc rotor spacing in the front because they already make that hub. I had front disc spacing hubs made because I did not. No knock on Surly, as they recognized early on the beauty of the wide front hub. Those guys are awesome.
    Thanks for the info! No knock on anyone who makes fat bikes or parts. My frustration with incompatibility isn't trying to lay blame on anyone or company. I'd rather have lots of choices that don't swap over between different bikes than 1 choice and everything be 100% compatible.

    I'm stoked to see the new Fatback gear and website - bring it on...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  171. #171
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    Holy crap, I was surfing the internet and came across this site :P

    Untitled Document

    Looks like it's one step closer to being ready/done!!!
    I live in "bush" Alaska, in Galena on the Yukon River.

  172. #172
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    Anybody have anymore updates on the arrival date of the US aluminum frames?

  173. #173
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    I was told a few weeks

  174. #174
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    Will the 135mm to 170mm IGH adaptor be generic or only for use with Fatback frames? Will the rear wheel need to be built offset or would a centred/symmetrical wheel be possible when using this adaptor?

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    Will the 135mm to 170mm IGH adaptor be generic or only for use with Fatback frames? Will the rear wheel need to be built offset or would a centred/symmetrical wheel be possible when using this adaptor?

    Good questions.

    Designed specifically to fit our dropout.
    Wheel would need to be built 17.5 mm offset like the Surly Pugsley or Wildfire.

  176. #176
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    Thanks - doesn't solve my issue then. I built a pair of symmetrical wheels around a pair of Alfine hubs (dyno front, IGH rear) using 65MM Large Marges for my Big Dummy, thinking I'd be able to move these to my snow bike when I store the Dummy away during the snowy months (November to April here in Ottawa). I thought I'd be great to just swap over the wheels from bike to bike when the snow flies.

    Is there be a Fatback frame and fork option that would allow this, given the symmetrical wheel build and 110/135 wheel spacing?

  177. #177
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    Somebody needs to give us some more pics info or anything to help me get through the wait. Any teaser is well appreciated!!

  178. #178
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    Fatback bro's say wait a couple weeks. I can't be more proud that they are going to USA made frames! I have a stack of bills I'm just waiting to give them. Hopefully others will follow their lead. I for one am more than willing to give my money to a company who is "keeping it real", and by that I mean making it local. Be patient. The new Fatbacks are a really smart design. I love my Pugs, and Surly(s), but the Fatback aluminum USA frames and carbon forks are where the "performance" snow money should be spent.
    "Go that way REAL FAST, if something gets in your way... turn".

  179. #179
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    I already gave them a stack of bills now excited to see more pics, like color samples.
    p.s. riding a US made fatbike now

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    i already gave them a stack of bills now excited to see more pics, like color samples.
    +1:d

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    Recently got this from Speedway after making a similar request. I think these are 2011 frames though.
    I like the green...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  182. #182
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    Recently got this from Speedway after making a similar request. I think these are 2011 frames though.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Fatback-crs-809-5507-20101209_expanded_black.jpg  


  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I like the green...
    That's what I've got ordered.

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    That's what I've got ordered.
    Their blog says they'll be doing orange as well which I'd like to see. I have to contend with rain forest gloom for my MTB photography so frame colours that pop make me happy!...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  185. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Their blog says they'll be doing orange as well which I'd like to see. I have to content with rain forest gloom for my MTB photography so frame colours that pop make me happy!...
    I ordered an orange US made 16".

  186. #186
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    I'm stuck between black and raw, not sure which to choose.

  187. #187
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    Of the Fatback colors available, green is the one I've seen least. There are a couple pics on the interwebs but not much...yet.

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR2ebike View Post
    I'm stuck between black and raw, not sure which to choose.
    The number of black fatbikes will explode once the Moonlanders and Black Ops Pugs get released. And the member who posted he only gets black bikes to keep his wife from discovering upgrades has a brilliant (and stealthy) strategy.

  189. #189
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    I was hoping for blue, but since it's not yet available I went w/ the black to be in on the first US-made production batch due at the end of this month. My plan was to dress it up w/ blue bits, but Speedway said that colored Hadley hubs were delayed . So I guess w/ black hubs I won't bother to ask for blue nipples - just go all black (universally appealing if resale is ever required) & dress it up the wheelset w/ blue reflective rim tape. Unfortunately w/ e*13 snow cranks I can't order a blue BB - man, the icy-blue dream is falling apart . Good thing that I'm sure the Fatback frame, carbon fork, & wheelset are going to be so freakin' sweet that I'll quickly forget all about color scheme & just love riding the beast!
    avitar grooming my future stoker :-)...

    "A 29er's a greyhound, a 26er's a rabbit." - Miker J
    "My handlebars are real unusual looking too....so I am legit." - mward
    "Steel is real. Aluminum is real too, it just doesn't rhyme." - mward

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    The number of black fatbikes will explode once the Moonlanders and Black Ops Pugs get released. And the member who posted he only gets black bikes to keep his wife from discovering upgrades has a brilliant (and stealthy) strategy.
    Yeah that's why I'm getting orange and not a ti frame.

  191. #191
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    I plopped a deposit for a steel fatty last week. Color is yet to be determined. I guess they will all be done the same color. Going with 90mm rims as well. Since I don't know the frame color yet I plan on going with black Hadley's. Figure I can add color in other ways. The snow is really falling in Anchorage and I just want to get out and ride.

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    That's what I've got ordered.
    Thought the new frames were only available in black, raw or orange?
    The LPG

  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Thought the new frames were only available in black, raw or orange?
    Ordered mine in August. This is a 2011 frame.

  194. #194
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    Gotcha. So they are still waiting on some of the old frames to come in?
    The LPG

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Gotcha. So they are still waiting on some of the old frames to come in?
    Don't know for sure, but I think being crazy busy might have something to do with it. One batch of frames was to have arrived last month. Greg mentioned that happened. There's still more frames due in though.
    A build queue exists for those who paid deposits. At least that's how the process was explained to me. That queue is growing (probably fast) too. I'm a looong way from the shop however, so things might be different for walk in business. I would imagine local customers have a distinct (and appropriate) advantage in this regard.

    As of right now, I think any prospective customer who's serious about buying a Fatback will pick up the phone and talk to Greg, Tim or Jeff. Be ready to place an order based on expectations they provide. They're responsive and cordial enough on the phone. I would not call them and be vague about doing business or send a 5 page email with questions about fat bikes. Let's face it, product demand is high and the winter season is getting underway.
    Just my $.02

  196. #196
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    When I called at the end of Sept. about getting a 14" Fatback, they said the 2012s would not be available until January...I ordered a **green** 2011 "rolling chassis" (frame, fork, wheels), and it arrived in about 3wks. It sounded like if I'd ordered a complete bike it would have been longer.

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbtlvr View Post
    Don't know for sure, but I think being crazy busy might have something to do with it. One batch of frames was to have arrived last month. Greg mentioned that happened. There's still more frames due in though.
    A build queue exists for those who paid deposits. At least that's how the process was explained to me. That queue is growing (probably fast) too. I'm a looong way from the shop however, so things might be different for walk in business. I would imagine local customers have a distinct (and appropriate) advantage in this regard.

    As of right now, I think any prospective customer who's serious about buying a Fatback will pick up the phone and talk to Greg, Tim or Jeff. Be ready to place an order based on expectations they provide. They're responsive and cordial enough on the phone. I would not call them and be vague about doing business or send a 5 page email with questions about fat bikes. Let's face it, product demand is high and the winter season is getting underway.
    Just my $.02
    Thanks for your understanding. We are doing the best we can with what we've got! We really appreciate all the interest and support and are working on efficiency. We know that we can do better. It will happen soon, so please hang in there.
    The new website is very close now, and there will be lots of info posted.

    Just to clarify on the frames, all of them are considered 2012 product, as there was nothing left over from last spring. We got a shipment of imported frames in September. We will be getting the US made frames in this month. The changes made to fit the BFL affected delivery time, so they are a bit later than anticipated. We're building bikes in order of purchase. We try our best to treat customers the same no matter where you are from. Not perfect by any means, but we are all working hard to get you guys on snow as soon as possible.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  198. #198
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    Thanks Thirstywork for your hands-on and all your responses on here, it has helped with my decision to go Fatback. Can't wait to see the new website!

  199. #199
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    When will frames with the sliding dropouts or belt drive compatible models be available?
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Thanks Thirstywork for your hands-on and all your responses on here, it has helped with my decision to go Fatback. Can't wait to see the new website!
    Ditto!

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