2011 FatLefty- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 37 of 37

Thread: 2011 FatLefty

  1. #1
    Stubby-legged
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,158

    2011 FatLefty

    I have been trying to load pics of the FatLefty updates....hope it works.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 FatLefty-dsc01405.jpg  

    2011 FatLefty-dsc01406.jpg  

    2011 FatLefty-dsc01407.jpg  


  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    576
    Very Nice!!

  3. #3
    Dr Gadget is IN
    Reputation: wadester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,358
    Excellent!

    And more specifically - where did you get the cool reflective snowflake stickers??
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  4. #4
    All fat, all the time.
    Reputation: Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    8,137
    Turn it around! We want to see the other side too

    Sweet!

  5. #5
    Stubby-legged
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,158
    I went to the sign shop that lettered my work truck. Brought the bike in and wanted reflective panels. The artist/signsmith said, "how 'bout some color?"
    She suggested the snowflakes....and...Kapow!

  6. #6
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,944
    Awesome! So, they had reflective tape, and cut the snowflakes? Or did they have reflective snowflakes pre made?

    Those are hot! Details man, I want those things, great idea!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtnbikerfred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    224
    Any good sign shop can cut reflective vinyl into shapes and letter on their plotters. It comes in several colors. Reflective black or Blue are my favorites

    BTW, nice Lefty. What was involved to make it work with the fatty? anything special?
    Giant Trance Advanced SL0
    Black Cat 26 " SS

  8. #8
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,944
    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikerfred View Post
    Any good sign shop can cut reflective vinyl into shapes and letter on their plotters. It comes in several colors. Reflective black or Blue are my favorites

    BTW, nice Lefty. What was involved to make it work with the fatty? anything special?
    I had no idea, gotta make a few calls to my graphics folks I think!

    And only since I'm in the responsible party, the Lefty works great for fatties, gotta space it for 29er use, and obtain a set of the 17.5mm offset clamps, which I have made for me. Issue being, you can only run moveable clamp forks, so all the latest stuff won't work due to being bonded clamp style. Used forks are cheaper though, so it's kind of a positive as well!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  9. #9
    Dr Gadget is IN
    Reputation: wadester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,358
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I had no idea, gotta make a few calls to my graphics folks I think!
    MendonCycleSmith group order reflective snowflake stickers For The Win!
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    167
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    the Lefty works great for fatties, gotta space it for 29er use, and obtain a set of the 17.5mm offset clamps, which I have made for me.
    Mendon, besides the clamps, i'm assuming you're also replacing the head tube to fit the 1 1/8" standard (C'dale head tubes are 1.5")? I see a few options for that on eBay along with hubs, which should complete the conversion. This seems like a better option than the Maverick SC.

    When you get the clamps nailed down, what are the chances of getting some red anodized?

  11. #11
    Stubby-legged
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,158
    As an added bonus, the sign shop owner called me three times while the bike was there. "I just took another ride...wow..I need one of these."
    He ordered a Necromancer the next day and picked it up yesturday!

  12. #12
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,944
    Got a call in Wadester, I'll let you know how it's going....

    RickyB, the steerers on the clampsets are 1 1/8", so no extra conversion required.

    Red? Dunno, they still need to be anodized. If you're really interested, PM me, and we'll see if it can't be worked out!

    Am currently planning on half of them polished, the other half black.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  13. #13
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Like the reflective;

    It's cool, and a great way to personalize your ride, but reflective is kind of spendy if you have
    to buy the material ($10-40/yd depending). It's nice to find a sign shop that already has the
    stuff from another project so you don't have to buy a lot up front. I did my own graphics for my
    recent RIP9 build. Doesn't hold as well as paint, but... can be replaced when damaged... if
    you keep the graphic files.








  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    86
    Seems like this would be a great gig for Jake at Project321 to be involved with. Looks like 1spd already has a hub. Just like I saw on the Tubeless fatty thread, if there is enough interest, it may be worth Jake's while to spin out some mounts and wide hubs...

    Fatty curious...

  15. #15
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,944
    Quote Originally Posted by 2na time View Post
    Seems like this would be a great gig for Jake at Project321 to be involved with. Looks like 1spd already has a hub. Just like I saw on the Tubeless fatty thread, if there is enough interest, it may be worth Jake's while to spin out some mounts and wide hubs...

    Fatty curious...
    If you can get him on board, I'm all about it. I pestered him for a while on this. Loves the idea, no time for a new project though.

    Big thanks to him though, as he gave me his clamp design files so I could get the reworked, and is selling me the steerers for them too. Actually got me hooked up with a friend of his who had some machine time, to get my first production run done. So, I guess he is involved actually.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BikesOnSnow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    294
    So who is the source of these offset clamps? Can I ride the coattails? How's it riding?

  17. #17
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,836
    MendonCycleSmith is. It rides great!
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  18. #18
    Stubby-legged
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,158
    If you can imagine a cloud riding on a cloud, that is how I would describe it.

    I find the 1" roots and rocks that bounce the front end sorta disappear. The trail "cunder" goes unnoticed and the ride is improved in all aspects. With no snow this winter, the frozen ,half-frozen stuff doesn't bother me.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,742
    Just curious-what size frame is that, and what is your inseam/height? I'm waiting for my Lefty set-up, and I just put my old Thud Buster LT on mine, but it shows a lot more seat post than that. I'm wondering if my headtube height will increase much as well.

  20. #20
    Stubby-legged
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,158
    It is a 2010 small (16). I'm 5'3.586767463542, if I stretch really hard. My inseam is 28 in. "bear foot".
    I couldn't use this post with the thunderhead grey frame. It fit perfect slammed all the way down in the new frame.
    I will measure the headtube height and compare tomorrow. I'm going to put the pugs fork back on my wife's bike. I'll measure and compare when it's done.

    Fatbikes rule. FatLeftys rule more.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    I have 2 questions for the lefty conversion:
    what is the stock lefty fore/aft offset(steerer centerline to hub centerline)? edit: 45mm(cannondale website)
    Is there enough flex in the clamps to adjust fore and aft offset by misaligning the clamps to angle the ?fork? back or forward while keeping the hub centered(or17.5mm left offset)?
    this would allow adjusting trail.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Smallfurry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    I have 2 questions for the lefty conversion:
    what is the stock lefty fore/aft offset(steerer centerline to hub centerline)? edit: 45mm(cannondale website)
    Is there enough flex in the clamps to adjust fore and aft offset by misaligning the clamps to angle the ?fork? back or forward while keeping the hub centered(or17.5mm left offset)?
    this would allow adjusting trail.
    If you rotate both clamps back towards the offset is reduced, and the wheel is pulled to the left. So you then need to dish the wheel further back to the righ to compensate (tighten the right side spokes).

    As the clamps are around 45 degrees from the stem angle. I guess reduction from 45mm to 43mm fork offset, would result in about the same wheel offset adjustment (so from 17.5 to 19.5).

    Much easier to just adjust the fork offset, then recentre the wheel while mounted, then it is to do the math, though.
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    did someone mention a wider lefty hub?
    how much less angle are the right side spokes when offset dishing for 4" tires?
    Also, why does nobody ever run the spokes to the opposite side of the rim?
    wouldn't that make a stronger rim if you ran the right side spokes to the left side of the rim, and the left spokes to the right side?

  24. #24
    Dr Gadget is IN
    Reputation: wadester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,358
    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    did someone mention a wider lefty hub?
    how much less angle are the right side spokes when offset dishing for 4" tires?
    Also, why does nobody ever run the spokes to the opposite side of the rim?
    wouldn't that make a stronger rim if you ran the right side spokes to the left side of the rim, and the left spokes to the right side?
    Wider hub? Just a pipe dream, sadly.

    Can't tell you the angles, but check out spocalc (excel spoke calculator) or there's a really good one that gives you a graphic of the angles - but I can't recall where it is.

    Nobocy runs the spokes to the opposite side of the rim? Not so! But it is harder to tension/true them (got to get 'em true BEFORE you tension). It does turn out that the small outer flange makes the standard hub work well for a crossover lace. This wheel uses all the same size spokes, has a 100mm rim and a BFL:
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Smallfurry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    did someone mention a wider lefty hub?
    how much less angle are the right side spokes when offset dishing for 4" tires?
    Also, why does nobody ever run the spokes to the opposite side of the rim?
    wouldn't that make a stronger rim if you ran the right side spokes to the left side of the rim, and the left spokes to the right side?
    I drilled new holes for the right side spokes, along the left spoke bed. I now have a dishless wheel. Which seems nice and strong. It will need some tinkering while mounted to get it centered fully. But it wont be as dished as a standard disk braked MTB front.
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    9
    .Thats sick man

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    9
    Is that a custom build

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Smallfurry View Post
    I drilled new holes for the right side spokes, along the left spoke bed. I now have a dishless wheel. Which seems nice and strong. It will need some tinkering while mounted to get it centered fully. But it wont be as dished as a standard disk braked MTB front.
    what rims are you talking about? I assume this is a rim that originally had two rows of 16 spoke holes, and now you are running it offset at the rim with all 32 spokes along the left side. why not just use the 16 holes already there for the right side spokes and run the left ones to the right side?

    I ask because I want to know, not because I know better and am telling you what to do.
    I have never built my own wheels, I just look at some of these fat bike wheels that have two rows of widely spaced spokes running at shallow angles to the nearest hub flange, and imagine a wheel that has them crossing each other being much stronger laterally, with only a small weight penalty from longer spokes, which could easily be more than compensated for by allowing the use of a lighter rim, or more holes in the same rim.

  29. #29
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,944
    What you're talking about is called cross lacing.

    It can be done, as Wadster alluded to, but is a royal PITA, for what amounts to nothing beyond making you feel better since your wheel isn't offset built. Should you want a good project and have the time, go for it, they look cool. I equate it to twist lacing, looks cool, some argue it makes a stiffer wheel, but pretty tough to prove outright.

    Yes, his wheel has held up to all he's thrown at it, but so has mine, and the many I've built for Fat Leftys, as well as the countless thousands of stock wheels on Pugsleys all over the world. Note, I like Wadester just fine, not throwing him under the bus at all.

    My advice? Just ride. Sweating offset lacing is a waste of time and energy. You're not alone though, certain companies in the industry have been selling this snake oil for years with their offset spoke beds to reduce dish blah blah blah.

    If offset built wheels were blowing up and breaking spokes all over the place, they'd have a leg to stand on, as it is, they don't, so it is at best an engineering mindset argument, and at worst, a sales gimmick.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  30. #30
    Dr Gadget is IN
    Reputation: wadester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,358
    Thanks for not throwing me under the bus, Craig

    I would point out that the worst offset built wheels around - are standard rear wheels! They run a significant spoke length/angle difference between drive and nondrive - and work fairly well.

    I started with cross-lacing for one major reason: The USChoppers 100mm rims are +/-25mm on the spoke drilling, and in combination with Fatback hubs laced normally there was only about 1 degree of angle from the flange to the rim. I didn't think that was enough for lateral strength, so I went cross laced. The large angle from flange to rim creates the major build problem - when you tighten a spoke, not only is it acting in the opposite direction to a normal build, but you get a bigger side force for the same nipple movement.

    I have a moonlander rear wheel built laced to one side of spoke holes - and the spokes are almost symmetrical, but the rim is offset 50mm - vs total offset of a moonlander @56mm. Been riding it for a while now, and no retrue required.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    I am not sure if spoke angle is irrelevant to wheel strength, and I have definitely destroyed some wheels over the years that had adequate flange width(usually big hits or weak rims). Most recently though, I got a single speed 29er, and was out riding it for the first time, and came up on a spot where there is a tight left then a short steep climb, and to keep my momentum up, even with a geared bike, I usually carry quite a bit of speed through the turn to get up the hill. I attacked it with the new rig and the rear slid out a little on the turn. I steered into the skid, cought it, and when I straightened out the front wheel again and got traction, the front wheel just folded in half. This was with a WTB Speed disc wheel and hub. I can't help but think the longer straighter spokes due to the larger diameter rim combined with a relatively narrow disc hub flange are the reason for such a disappointing wheel failure. I have done this move with my rim brake 26" wheels many times without even once having to retrue a wheel. A wider/stronger rim would have helped, but I think wider hub flanges are going to be necessary for me to ride a 29er as my trail bike. I think 135mm front hubs and 170mm rear hubs would be much better suited to larger rims off road, and if disc brakes are used, they should have high flanges.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    I am almost ready to go get this necromancer pug on sale at the LBS. it is a 2012 marked down to $1500. I would really rather get a 170mm rear stay bike though. I am sure the rolling darrels wouldn't fold up like that, but I was planning on getting rid of those boat anchors for some light 47mm rims, since I will never see snow, or even much sand. I want fat tires for the traction on singletrack, so I can go through turns way too fast, and not skid out as much.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Smallfurry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    what rims are you talking about? I assume this is a rim that originally had two rows of 16 spoke holes, and now you are running it offset at the rim with all 32 spokes along the left side. why not just use the 16 holes already there for the right side spokes and run the left ones to the right side?

    I ask because I want to know, not because I know better and am telling you what to do.
    I have never built my own wheels, I just look at some of these fat bike wheels that have two rows of widely spaced spokes running at shallow angles to the nearest hub flange, and imagine a wheel that has them crossing each other being much stronger laterally, with only a small weight penalty from longer spokes, which could easily be more than compensated for by allowing the use of a lighter rim, or more holes in the same rim.
    I've built quite a few wheelsets, and as someone thats hard on their bikes while also being a weight weenie I like to get strength from design.

    To be honest the cross lacing was seriously tempting, out of curiousity alone. At first I built the wheel as normal, then dished it. Thinking the it would be enough. It was, but the spoke tension was seriously uneven. So I drilled 16 new holes, and relaced. The offset gave a wheel with even tension. IMHO even spoke tension is king. I'm convinced its as strong a wheel as I'll ever need.

    Oh, the rim was a GFS 80mm. I cant recommend it, The tyre bead lock sucks.
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    what sucks about the bead lock?
    is it hard to get tires to seat?
    anyone tried the jetset HC-515S 47mm trials wheels. They are 565g and are listed for both trials and dirt jump use!
    JETSET - PRODUCTS
    JETSET - PRODUCTS

    oh, and anyone know where to get em?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vmaxx4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Yes, his wheel has held up to all he's thrown at it, but so has mine, and the many I've built for Fat Leftys
    Zero issues with the wheel MCS built for me.
    2010 Intense Spider 2
    2010 Ibis Tranny SS
    2012 Salsa Mukluk 2
    2013 Salsa Spearfish 1
    2013 Trek Domane 5.2
    2014 Hakkalugi

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    What you're talking about is called cross lacing.

    Yes, his wheel has held up to all he's thrown at it, but so has mine, and the many I've built for Fat Leftys, as well as the countless thousands of stock wheels on Pugsleys all over the world. Note, I like Wadester just fine, not throwing him under the bus at all.

    If offset built wheels were blowing up and breaking spokes all over the place, they'd have a leg to stand on, as it is, they don't, so it is at best an engineering mindset argument, and at worst, a sales gimmick.
    I can't believe what my MCS Lefty front wheel has been taking. Today I was jumping over logs and took some air. I have been pounding the crap out of it for months now, rocks roots tree limbs and drops, and not even any out of true.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    Are there a few of you from the western NY area here? I guess so. I f I was there I would definitely have him(MCS) do any wheel build, or lefty service, but I am in Texas, and I can probably find a wheel builder around here that is qualified, but would probably send my lefty there for service. I have been up there a few times when I was a kid to see my dad's family. He grew up in Penn Yan, NY. That is definitely a beatiful area for outdoor activities. I was still riding my 20" yellow mag wheel mongoose when I was able to ride some trails around the fingerlakes.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-19-2012, 08:19 PM
  2. Fatlefty report! Pics now! 10/10/11
    By 1spd1way in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-10-2011, 03:22 PM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-11-2011, 12:02 AM
  4. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-27-2011, 10:10 PM
  5. Replies: 18
    Last Post: 12-01-2010, 01:09 AM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.