1x10 pugs build on the skinny- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    1x10 pugs build on the skinny

    Well i finally picked up a pugsley of my own a couple weeks ago. I have to say i love this thing so far and we barely have any snow yet! To build it up i grabbed some parts off my niner, my flash and even the stem off my trials bike
    specs:
    2011 pugsley 18", 100mm pugs fork with all the mounts stripped off
    RD rims extra drilled
    dt 240 rear hub, sram x7 front, DT rev spokes
    echo headset
    trialtech stem
    easton ec70 bar
    bb7's with hope rotors 160 &140mm
    masterpiece post, slr saddle
    fsa cranks/bb with 28t ring
    Mrp chainguide
    XTR 10spd, with sram cassette









    i borrowed the tires until we get our new stock in at my work, and i still need to find some blue ducktape for the rims
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  2. #2
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    What fsa crankset is that?? I am having a hard time finding a reasonable priced crankset that can run smaller than 32t

  3. #3
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    they are alphadrive isis cranks. They retail for $80 and i'm running a 28T granny which cost $14. after a bit of riding i think a 29 or 30 would be perfect with my 12-36T cassette
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  4. #4
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    Ohhh...I see, you are running it on the 64bcd inner ring spot...I was looking at that crankset but had been thinking outside ring spot, which of course you can only do 31,32t...how is the chainline from that inside spot??

  5. #5
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    pretty well perfect with the 100mm bb. what chainguide are u planning to run?
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamard View Post
    pretty well perfect with the 100mm bb. what chainguide are u planning to run?
    MRP 1x is what I was planning

  7. #7
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    I tried to get my MRP 1X guide to work in a 1x10 set up, but with a 32 ring in the middle position, the chainline was biased toward the outside too much and the MRP wouldn't reach without serious modification. I like the OP's idea of using the inner ring- do you have any close-ups of the MRP positioning?

  8. #8
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    I like the lettering you used, it looks really cool.

  9. #9
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    I like that the weight is written on the TT in the 3rd pic.

  10. #10
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    That's light! Imagine a carbon fork on there. I was pondering the drilling of Darryls myself. It looks like you drilled through the rim joint though. You can see one of your holes drilled where there wasn't a factory hole in the center. Not sure if that's ok or not.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by atom29 View Post
    That's light! Imagine a carbon fork on there. I was pondering the drilling of Darryls myself. It looks like you drilled through the rim joint though. You can see one of your holes drilled where there wasn't a factory hole in the center. Not sure if that's ok or not.
    actually that was the old valve hole that i enlarged and then i moved the valve hole to right next to the seam. The seam is welded on the RD so drilling it would not be a problem. I have a couple trials rims that are drilled through the seam with no problems whatsoever. I've been drilling my trials parts (mostly rims, but frames and other poarts too) for years with no issues related to the drilling. The one recommendation i make is to drill the rims after the wheel is built.

    I'll take some more detailed pics tmo
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR2ebike View Post
    I like that the weight is written on the TT in the 3rd pic.
    ya i wrote a bunch of other goofy **** all over the bike with a sharpie; favorite pizza toppings, birthday, address and some wierd quotes
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  13. #13
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    I see your Olympia portage sticker... no snow in winterpeg yet? If you want to learn about rim drilling talk to craig at bikes and beyond. Having worked there I know he's fanatical about fat bikes and he did a rim drilling not to long ago, can probably offer you some tips.

  14. #14
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    I'm the head tech at olympia. We've got very little snow so far, most of the trails are ice... I know craig, but i'm pretty confidant in my rim drilling. easily drilled 30 or so rims for myself and other people through the shop
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  15. #15
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    pics of the mrp guide



    in the bottom cog 12T



    in the top 36T



    I'd like to get middleburn cranks with a 29 or 30T homebrew ring at some point because i barely get up past my 3rd gear when climbing in snow

    here a few more pictures




    a little bit of modding to get the 140 rotor to work






    this shows you where i drilled the new valve hole, right next to the seam





    this pic shows you my stock trialtech rim with the valve hole drilled through the seam

    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  16. #16
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    I bet those cranks, at least the drive side, could loose some weight with the hacksaw and file. Lets see a Jones style Alpha Drive!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by atom29 View Post
    I bet those cranks, at least the drive side, could loose some weight with the hacksaw and file. Lets see a Jones style Alpha Drive!
    i thought aboot it, and actually my friend did that on his pugs, but for next summer when i sell my niner emd i'll be running this bike with 29er wheels in the summer with a 36t ring
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

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