Shimano 12 speed on Calling- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Shimano 12 speed on Calling

    Is anyone running Shimano 12 speed on a Calling? If so, what crankset/chainring combo are you running? Looking at an XT or SLX with Wolftooth chainring, but not sure which size of each I need.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Did you ever figure this out? I'm planning on running Shimano 12 speed on a calling as well, wondering if 8100 or 8120 is the correct crankset.

  3. #3
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    assuming the calling is similar to the offering and has minimal space around the BB, you need the wider of the 3 XT cranks offered.

    FC-M8120-1 is the specific model.
    ē 178mm Q-factor
    ē 55mm chain line works with 148mm boost spacing

    https://bike.shimano.com/en-AU/produ...C-M8120-1.html

  4. #4
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    I chatted with EVil directly and was advised to get the standard 8100 crank with the 52mm chainline. I was also warned that Shimano chainrings may be a problem, so get a Wolftooth boost chainring. I havenít tried it yet, so Iíll be sure to buy from somewhere with a good exchange policy


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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by backnsaddle View Post
    I chatted with EVil directly and was advised to get the standard 8100 crank with the 52mm chainline. I was also warned that Shimano chainrings may be a problem, so get a Wolftooth boost chainring. I havenít tried it yet, so Iíll be sure to buy from somewhere with a good exchange policy


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have an Offering and the 12spd crank with 52 mm chainline did not fit. The spindle length is too short. I used the the 55mm chainline XT crank with shims which is working well.

  6. #6
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    Chatted with Evil through their website again and they recommended the 8120 crank, so I stand corrected


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  7. #7
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    I ended up going from SRAM to Shimano 12 speed. You can just use a SRAM direct mount crankset with a Wolftooth Camo boost spider (M5) and their Shimano 12 speed chainring. Works perfectly and no fitment issues on the Calling.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shimano 12 speed on Calling-camo.jpg  


  8. #8
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    I finally got around to beginning this build. I tried to install the 8120 (with Wolftooth boost 32 tooth chainring) with the 2.5mm bb spacer on the drive side and the 3mm spacers that came with the crank on each side; all as prescribed in the Shimano manual. This led to the chainring being directly in line with the outer edge of the built-in chainguide. I took off the 3mm drive side crank spacer and the chainring fit within the chain guide, but it wasnít centered and thereís no way the chain wouldnít rub when installed.

    I ran out of time, so I couldnít go any further, but tomorrow Iím going to try out moving the BB spacer from drive side to non-drive side. 2.5mm seems like it should bring the chainring into the center of the chain guide, so Iím keeping my fingers crossed that does it.

    Iíve been riding the same Cotic Soul for 10 years, and when I built that up, it was easy as pie. Itís amazing how different standards have made bike builds so much more complicated. I guess it increases the sense of accomplishment when you finally get it to work. Silver linings, right?


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  9. #9
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    some variation in evils it seems, Dave1078's photo of the wolf tooth camo set-up wouldn't work in my Offering. The bolts protruding from the ring were in contact were the frame. Could of ran spacers, but didn't want to mess with chainline and crank centering.

    So I used the XT 8120 cranks (no issues) until Wolftooth released the hyper glide direct mount chainring and then went back to my eeWings (will work with SRAM cranks too).

    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-screen-shot-2020-01-19-7.27.26-pm.png

  10. #10
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    Is the M8120 still the go to for evils? I am building up my first Wreckoning with Shimano 12 speed and a the absolute black oval chainring. Any advice is appreciated

  11. #11
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    To get the M8120 to fit the Calling, I had to put both 3mm spacers that came with the crankset on the non-drive side and then shim out the chain guide a bit to get the chainring centered therein. I imagine this brought the non-drive side crank further out than intended, but I didn't feel any imbalance or strangeness while riding. I used the Wolftooth Boost direct mount chainring.

    At the end of the day, conceivably a chainring with more offset may have worked without having to put both 3mm spacers on the non-drive side. That said, you shouldn't need a superboost chainring on a boost-spaced frame, so my conclusion is the 8120 was not the right crankset.

    While I didn't try an M8100, I imagine that it would have been the proper choice.

  12. #12
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    Figure I wouldn't start a new thread for this.

    Just bought a Calling frame. Bought a SLX groupset off the bay. It should be coming with a m7100 crank which is 52mm chainline. Will this work?

    I figure I would just use 1mm less DS spacer than required?

    Thanks

  13. #13
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    You need the 7120 crankset for your calling @yourrealdad. I went through this same fiasco with my following mb, as above ended up with the 8120 XT crankset tried the 8100 but the spindle is indeed too short. I shimmed both the bb and the non drive side of the cranks to get the chainline good(ish)

    I also had to shim the carbon chainguide to eliminate interference but I also overly complicated things by running an absolute black oval chainring. I wish shimano wasnít so stuck in their ways Sram makes things really easy and just adjusts chainline with rings. Shimano being Shimano has to make 3 different versions of every crank to accomplish the same thing. Only other gripe I have is microspline but I get it and needed wheels anyway so it wasnít too much of an issue. Shifting is really good though.

  14. #14
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    So WTF? Shimano lists the 7100 with a chainline of 52mm, the Calling says 51mm. Seems like a pretty good set up and requires only 1mm of shimming.

    Herro, you say that the 7100 doesn't work because it is too short, but isn't the BB shell 73mm like it has (almost) always been? And the BB is MT800 which is the recommended BB for the 7100, so how is that combo not fitting?

    Backnsaddle says that the 8120 didn't really work and the 8100 would have been a better choice?

    Is it an issue with Evil's built in chain guide?

    Is the chainline listed for the cranks only and actually not 52mm when you add the chainring?

    I looked at the manual and there is no offset listed for the chain rings. For a 73mm BB shell you add a 2.5mm spacer to the DS.
    Why can I not use a 1mm spacer on the NDS and 1.5 on the DS and then my chainline should be 51mm and everything is happy?

    What is going on here that I am missing?

    P.S. I just bought a 7120 crank just to be safe

  15. #15
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    The 8100 crank would not clear the chain stay on the drive side without shimming it out so far that the chainline was whack anyway. Your mileage may vary and the slx crank may have a slightly different profile that will allow it to work. Iím not exactly thrilled with having to run both shins on the non drive side but after trying several different combos I have up and got the 8120. On paper the 100 series is the proper crank, I shouldíve taken photos.

  16. #16
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    So is it all an issue with clearing the chain stay and not so much the chainline.

    BTW Shimano lists the 7120 as a 2x crank on the chain ring packaging and 7100/7130 as 1x. Just to confuse matter more.

  17. #17
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    Haha, god I live shimano. Theyíre old school Japanese to a fault. But they make great products.
    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-9a86dedf-70ac-462d-b0dd-147468a869fc.jpg
    For reference here is a photo of the 8120 crankset installed on my following MB. You can see how close it is to the chain stay...

  18. #18
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    Yeesh that is close.
    So you have 6mm of spacers on the NDS?
    What happens to the chain line if you go 3 on each side?

    Also off topic, but is that the stock chain stay protector for the Following MB? My Wreck and Calling both have flat rubber.

  19. #19
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    Yea I tried every possible combination of spacers on the drive/non drive side and even tried different combinations of .5mm spacers on the bb and the only thing that seemed to work as far as chainline and chain stay was both 3mm spacers on the non drive side and one spacer on the drive side bb...

    Yea itís the stock chain stay protector that I customized, I covered some 3m adhesive foam in Sugru moldable glue, I was trying to make the bike as quiet as possible, I have Onyx Vesper hubs so every single noise seems amplified now. Itís holding up pretty good so far but Iíve only put probably 100 miles on it, but it is a noticeable improvement as far as noise goes.

    Also off topic but the Burgtec titanium bolt kit for the flip chip and dog bone links is pretty cool.

    Iím not smart enough to delete images apparently...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shimano 12 speed on Calling-d24f56cd-cc6f-4fd6-9749-79660e553543.jpg  

    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-39e06495-eb3f-4df2-b67b-cda8c51351b2.jpg  


  20. #20
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    Those are sexy

  21. #21
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    Got my groupset today. The m7100 cranks are indeed too short of a spindle. By about the width of the 2.5mm spacer you are supposed to have on the DS of the BB.

    Here is what I don't understand:
    Regardless of Evil's chain guide or chainstay width (which is just fine with the m7100 set up as you are supposed to) the crank spindle is too short.

    The BB is 73mm. Shimano says put one 2.5mm spacer on the DS for 73mm BB. The spindle is too short for the standard they are building it for. Doesn't this seem like there is a manufacturing error in the cranks?

    P.S.

    The SLX group is damn sexy

  22. #22
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    Ok, I think (I hope) I have solved the issue:

    There wasn't an issue to begin with. I called Shimano and talked to a CS person and he said that a 2-3mm gap is within spec. As long as the lock tab will shut it is good. My lock tab will shut. The crank won't come off of the spindle if I remove the mounting cap.

    The cap is Shimano's way of taking the play out of the NDS arm correct? If I remove it then the arm can slide back and forth, but not come off because of the lock tab. Sorry, its been years since I have installed a Hollowtech 2.

    Chainring is pretty centered in the built in chain guide. I don't have my wheels yet so actual chainline can't be checked, but looks good I guess.

    I believe that the M7100/M8100 are the correct cranks if we are all having this "issue" and Shimano is correct about the spec

    Here is what my crank looks like and again Shimano said this is within spec.

    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-img_5996.jpg

  23. #23
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    Aaaaaaaand MF plus a whole bunch more expletives.

    Took the crank to the LBS to swap chainrings and to make sure they thought it was all good. They said it wasn't what they usually see, but said it was fine to run it like that.

    Got home, installed everything and the damn chainring bolts on the spider rub the frame. This is with a 34t chainring. I don't believe this was happening with the original 30t chainring.

    I would shim out the DS another 1mm if the spindle was actually going to the end, but...

    So at least at this point the 7100 w/ a 34t is not going to work.

    P.S.

    Shimano please make a real DM chainring without a spider and bolts and different offsets

  24. #24
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    Schadenfreude. I went through the exact same thing with the XT stuff. I also wish shimano wasnít so, uh, shimano about their groups. Seems it would make more sense financially to limit the number of skus and just have one crank adjustable via chainrings and shims, but then again, shimano.

  25. #25
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    Herro,

    Maybe I read your post wrong, but you have 2x3mm spacers on the NDS between the crank arm and the BB and you have the 2.5mm spacer on the DS between the frame and the BB. Is this correct?

    If so, why are your cranks so close to the chainstay? With a wider Q-factor and longer spindle shouldn't it sit out more than the 8100? Even if it is moved towards the NDS by 3mm?

  26. #26
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    I mustíve fat fingered it. I have ďoneĒ .5mm shim in the bottom bracket (just enough to keep the plastic tube from getting smashed) and the ď2Ē 3mm spacers that come with the cranks both on the non-drive side. When I tried to move another spacer either to the bb or put one of the 3mm shims on the drive-side it caused the chainline to be way out of whack. The way it is setup now and I havenít managed to flex the rear triangle enough to make contact between the chain stay and crank arm, but Iím no Bryn Atkinson. Youíre mileage may vary. Iím running a 34 tooth Absolute Black oval chainring which probably makes things even more convoluted.

    In short, by moving the (crank) spacer to have one on the drive side and one on the non-driveside (per shimano install literature) you gain clearance on the crank but it moves the chainline so far outside that shifting is always going to be problematic at the top end of the cassette. Be advised I also had to shim the chainguide slightly (2x1mm washers) in order to keep the chainguide from rubbing.

    Iím currently waiting on another pack of .5mm shims to arrive Iím going to play around with those a little and try to find a happy medium.

    TLDR; I tried every possible combination of cranksets, bb and crank spacers and this was the best solution for this particular frame for me at least.

    Also I didnít realize the SLX cranks run bolted chainrings still!? XT has gone direct mount which simplified things from a bolt interference perspective...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by herro View Post

    Also I didnít realize the SLX cranks run bolted chainrings still!? XT has gone direct mount which simplified things from a bolt interference perspective...
    So I believe XT is the same way. It is "direct mount" but the chainring has some bolts on the backside that connect it to the "direct mount" spider. These are what is rubbing. I think only the xtr version is a solid one piece design.

    So I spent about an hour this morning trying to get everything figured out. Here are my results:

    -MT800 BB is set up per Shimano instructions with one 2.5mm spacer between frame and BB

    -SLX M7120 Drive Side crank arm w/ 34t SLX chainring has a .5mm spacer on the spindle between the chainring and the BB

    -SLX M7120 Non Drive Side crank arm has 1x3mm Shimano spacer between it and the BB

    -Evil chain guide has 1mm washer/spacers between frame and guide taken from MRP bash for my Wreckoning to shim out.

    Everything looks good, but again my wheels are backordered so I have no real idea on chain line. The thing is I don't know how I can move the DS crank anymore inboard if needed. Technically I could remove the .5mm spacer on the spindle and there is clearance between those bolts, but it is literally paper thin. No way can I remove the 2.5mm BB spacer or anything like that without ordering a Wolftooth Chainring or something along those lines.

    Weird thing that I noticed that isn't relevant any more is if you use two 3mm spacers like Shimano says on the spindle you get a gap similar to the picture I posted in the above post. Thats why I decided to use just one spacer.

    Herro what did yours look like and why did you go 2x3mm of spacers?

    Just measured my chain line on my Wreckoning and it is 9mm from the frame. On the Calling it is 10mm, so hopefully that works. If not I guess I could lose the shim and get it down to 9.5mm and scratch the frame whenever my chain ring gets dirty (which never happens biking)

    Here are some pics of wha the set up looks like. I have circled in red where the clearance issue is between the chainring bolts and the frame.

    Sorry for the sideways pics. Been on this forum for years still haven't figured out why they do that.

    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-img_8375.jpg
    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-img_5473.jpg
    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-img_4672.jpg
    Shimano 12 speed on Calling-img_3806.jpg

  28. #28
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    I am curious as to how Evil sets this up as you could have bought the Calling with the XT kit?

  29. #29
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    ^ this is good. Canít believe itís such a nightmare trying to figure out what works. Forums like this end up being the best way to get it right.

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