Main pivot bearing covers....homemade bodge job- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Main pivot bearing covers....homemade bodge job

    Ok so I have been riding my following regularly for close to a year and live in a dry climate in Texas. I decided that I would blow the suspension apart and check bearings and whatnot and give her a good once over. I found all the linkage bearings to be in good condition but my main pivot bearings were crunchy by hand turning....on a side not the bike still rode really well and I didn't notice any degradation in performance. Not sure if it was sweat or all the grit that was in there that did it. I started to think how I could avoid some of the muck that gets thrown into that tight little area and had an idea. The little felt battery terminal pads that you use to keep you battery cable from corrosion are the perfect size to fit btw the frame and the swing arm and cover the bearings from **** flying all over them. I have used them for awhile now have had no issues and they don't affect the suspension action. I just cut a slit in them to make them into a c and slid them over the exposed portion. That easy. I can now take them off periodically to check and have no crud buildup.

    PS my bike is painted rat rod zombie apocalypse hence the non standard color.

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  3. #3
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    Nice to be different, well done on the RatRod look...

  4. #4
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    Your bike still looks great exploder maybe even better now that it's used and broken in.


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    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  5. #5
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    Thanks. I get a lot of compliments everywhere I go with it. Most people think it came this way. It was a labor of love.

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  6. #6
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    that is a great idea i may try it

  8. #8
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    Thats not a bad idea to keep crud off those bearings. I would be concerned with the felt getting wet, and then holding the moisture around the bearings? In a dry climate, likely not an issue, but anywhere with moisture would be a concern for me. I guess if you take the felt rings off every ride or so to make sure they are clean and dry it might work out.

  9. #9
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    That paint job crazy good!!! Personally to me it is the best one I have seen!

  10. #10
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    Those look like the same ones I used. I cut one side of the ring so I could easily pass it over the bearing area and it has stayed put and not budged. I have removed them both several times just to check to make sure they weren't causing any damage and everything was clean underneath. I put a little marine grease on them to repel water and they have been dry every time I have removed them. I also made a little small rear fender to bridge the gap BTW the upper and lower portion of the seat and chain stays as well. I will try and take a picture of it tonight.

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  11. #11
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    Do you know the diameter of the o ring?

  12. #12
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    No but it won't really matter all that much. They are pretty generic and probably only come in one size. Once you cut it to slide it over it won't really matter all that much anyways.

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  13. #13
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    For you guys who have removed the pivot bearings on the Following what tools did you use. Trying to buy the right kit so i can do it myself properly rather than using a hammer !

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    For you guys who have removed the pivot bearings on the Following what tools did you use. Trying to buy the right kit so i can do it myself properly rather than using a hammer !
    No special tools. Just an allen wrench and torque wrench. Unscrew drive side a little and tap out the non drive side cylinder. Most important thing are the 2 black conical cylinders and a silver spacer. The black conical spacers have the flat end touch carbon. The silver spacer goes on the drive side and touches carbon before the conical cylinder. Then re torque to spec

  15. #15
    wheelie king
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    Did your paint job void the warranty?

  16. #16
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    Does a bear **** in the woods? Who cares.

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  17. #17
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    Wow. I thought that was a legitimate question? If someone else was considering re-painting their frame, I would assume it would be a valid consideration.

  18. #18
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    < snippped >

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
    Wow. I thought that was a legitimate question? If someone else was considering re-painting their frame, I would assume it would be a valid consideration.
    Fully legit...welcome to mtbr3.0

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    < snippped >

  21. #21
    nel
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleymtnbiker1 View Post
    No special tools. Just an allen wrench and torque wrench. Unscrew drive side a little and tap out the non drive side cylinder. Most important thing are the 2 black conical cylinders and a silver spacer. The black conical spacers have the flat end touch carbon. The silver spacer goes on the drive side and touches carbon before the conical cylinder. Then re torque to spec
    silver spacer? I don't think the spacer is standard - did you buy your frame new?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by nel View Post
    silver spacer? I don't think the spacer is standard - did you buy your frame new?

    YES the silver spacer is standard for new Evil Following.

    Per Evil

    "if you assemble the rear triangle to the front. Before you stick the dogbones back on, sight down the bike from behind it. Doe the flip chips and the delta links look like the line up? If they do, you got the silver washer on the correct side. If not, you might try moving the silver washer across to the other side of the seat tube. It doesn't matter functionally for the main pivot which side that washer goes on, just make sure it's between the seat tube and the black washer."

  23. #23
    nel
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    Thanks for the reply cooleymtnbiker1. Mine didn't come with the silver washer and the rear triangle was really flexy and had a lot of play. Addition of the washer supplied by Evil sorted it. I thought it was just my frame that was out of spec so interesting to hear it is now supplied as standard.

  24. #24
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    Mine doesn't have a silver washer either. For those of us who don't have one should we all be requesting them from Evil and fitting them?

  25. #25
    nel
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    If you can fully tighten the main pivot axle to the specified torque and the axle doesnt rotate easily when fully tight it's fine. If the main pivot tightens on itself and you can still easily spin it when fully tight then you would need to install the silver washer. Mine also had obvious / flex play when the main pivot was fully tight.

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