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  1. #1301
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    Not the 11.6 but I switched to coil right away. For me the tune on the stock air shock was too soft. I picked up a Super Deluxe coil with a firmer tune (M/M vs the stock L/L) and find it suits the bike a lot better.
    Interesting.... I've been tempted by a Super Deluxe Coil. How do you find it compared to the air, except the support?

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  2. #1302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    Not the 11.6 but I switched to coil right away. For me the tune on the stock air shock was too soft. I picked up a Super Deluxe coil with a firmer tune (M/M vs the stock L/L) and find it suits the bike a lot better.
    How much do you weigh. In your opinion how does your SD with M/M tune improve the Offering for your trails? Thanks.

  3. #1303
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    So this will be my first all carbon bike.
    I am looking for all the torque settings.
    I see the stem has it listed on there.
    I know the suspension bolts have it listed on there.
    Would anyone be able to list the torque numbers for me please for those?

    What about the seat post clamp? I am not seeing anything for that. Is it dependant on the dropper you use? I will have the default reverb on there. Anyone know what the torque is for the seat clamp?

    Are there certain settings for the BB/Crank, fork, wheels/hubs?
    I've been working on the same thing for my Build, here is what I have so far.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Evil OFFERING....-torque-specs..png  

    2019 EVIL Offering

  4. #1304
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Interesting.... I've been tempted by a Super Deluxe Coil. How do you find it compared to the air, except the support?
    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    How much do you weigh. In your opinion how does your SD with M/M tune improve the Offering for your trails? Thanks.
    I weigh about 180, and for me the stock shock felt too soft for most everything. I generally prefer my suspension to be firm so there's more to push against and things don't get overwhelmed at speed. I messed with the air shock for a while, adjusting volume reducers and psi. The bike always felt limited by the shock. After switching to coil (500# spring) the bike really woke up. Feels more composed and predictable for our rocky trails.

    To be fair after a couple of chats with Evil I found out my air shock is faulty and have sent it back to SRAM for inspection. Maybe when that gets fixed my opinion of the stock shock will change.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miťrcoles!"

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  5. #1305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    I weigh about 180, and for me the stock shock felt too soft for most everything. I generally prefer my suspension to be firm so there's more to push against and things don't get overwhelmed at speed. I messed with the air shock for a while, adjusting volume reducers and psi. The bike always felt limited by the shock. After switching to coil (500# spring) the bike really woke up. Feels more composed and predictable for our rocky trails.

    To be fair after a couple of chats with Evil I found out my air shock is faulty and have sent it back to SRAM for inspection. Maybe when that gets fixed my opinion of the stock shock will change.

    I slightly upgraded to the Fox DPX2 and found that I needed to put 40 lbs of air pressure above my body weight for it to feel like I want it. I weigh 180/lbs. It was mushy and not as lively as I liked until I got the suspension set up correctly. Loving this bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Evil OFFERING....-img_0981.jpg  


  6. #1306
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Interesting.... I've been tempted by a Super Deluxe Coil. How do you find it compared to the air, except the support?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    I have one for sale on PB... not saying anything, Iím just sayiní....


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  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by bxcwolf7 View Post
    I have one for sale on PB... not saying anything, Iím just sayiní....


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    I'm in the UK, so a bit far! Plus I can get a brand new one here for the same price

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  8. #1308
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    Looking to try to get a PNW Bachelor 170mm dropper in a medium frame but I don't think I can make it. Evil says 225mm max insertion on a med but wondering if anyone can confirm that? Or is anyone running a 170mm post on a med and if so what brand and how far in can it go? I hate to wait for my frame before ordering a dropper. Thanks!!

  9. #1309
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    ^ I am in the same boat, wondering what post to go with. Narrowed it down to a 160 bikeyoke and bachelor 150. My inseam is 34" so my legs are pretty long for a medium so thinking I might be able to get away with it.

  10. #1310
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    Quote Originally Posted by mts595 View Post
    ^ I am in the same boat, wondering what post to go with. Narrowed it down to a 160 bikeyoke and bachelor 150. My inseam is 34" so my legs are pretty long for a medium so thinking I might be able to get away with it.
    I'm real close to a 34 inseam as well and have no issues with above the seat tube with a 170 but I don't think I can with insertion depth. A dood at PNW said he just met with a shop owner that had a med Offering with a 170 and I can't imagine he would have a much longer inseam..

  11. #1311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    How many of you have the 11.6? I'm not usually one to turn away from some sexy, but a 700 upcharge is not exactly chump change.
    Went for the elevensix and pretty happy so far. Great small bump compliance and Iíve not felt the bottom yet. Pretty sensitive to preload on the overall travel though. Iím basically running with no preload and it feels great. Second valve set for climbing and works really well. Only issue Iíve had is with the der cable rubbing the shock reservoir on compression. Annoying but ditching the last frame cable tie and just zip tie to the seat tube fixes it.

  12. #1312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stupordave View Post
    Went for the elevensix and pretty happy so far. Great small bump compliance and Iíve not felt the bottom yet. Pretty sensitive to preload on the overall travel though. Iím basically running with no preload and it feels great. Second valve set for climbing and works really well. Only issue Iíve had is with the der cable rubbing the shock reservoir on compression. Annoying but ditching the last frame cable tie and just zip tie to the seat tube fixes it.
    These work great for the rub.
    https://jagwire.com/files/product/CHA108.jpg


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  13. #1313
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsray152 View Post


    Thereís my girl. Iíll be home from deployment in a couple weeks. Expect a full detailed review, as I am pretty fed up with trying to find the right information.


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    You in Germany by chance? Just curious since my son is returning from his deployment at the same time.
    2019 Yeti SB5C
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  14. #1314
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsray152 View Post


    Thereís my girl. Iíll be home from deployment in a couple weeks. Expect a full detailed review, as I am pretty fed up with trying to find the right information.


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    Why is that so shiny? Just the pic or gloss invisiframe? Sweet whip btw!!!

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Why is that so shiny? Just the pic or gloss invisiframe? Sweet whip btw!!!
    Gloss invisiframe and it was fresh out of the bike stand


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  16. #1316
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    Has anyone fitted an Angleset to their Offering yet?

    I'm thinking of fitting a -1 degree Works Component one to mine, set at 150mm X-Low.

    Most of the trails I ride are super steep, so I'll always appreciate a slacker head angle!

    Wondering how you get on with it, and whether or not you increased fork travel, or went back to Low.


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  17. #1317
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    Quote Originally Posted by k2rider1964 View Post
    You in Germany by chance? Just curious since my son is returning from his deployment at the same time.
    Germany isnít a deployment, itís a TDY/Euro Vacation😉... unless of course he just stopped there on his way back from the AOR.

  18. #1318
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    Spent 2 days riding mine. Local natural stuff and a full day at a trail centre.

    Absolutely love it! It's the first bike since I got on a 2012 mk1 Banshee Spitfire that has made me just grin!

    Coming off an SB6C I'm finding it carries speed through chatter brilliantly, it's confidence inspiring on the super rough and very steep stuff.

    Imho it doesn't climb that well though, my Yeti was definitely more efficient in that area. Really feels like a mini DH bike which I can pedal back up - what it's aimed at I guess!

    I went large at 5ft11 with very long arms and legs for my height and I'm VERY happy I didn't go medium. I wanted a long bike and this has delivered.

    I've fitted a 170mm drop reverb in it with it 6mm from slammed. Won't go any lower and that's with the non connectamajig fitted (strain relief connection).

    BEST bike I've ever ridden, I absolutely love it!

  19. #1319
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    Quote Originally Posted by chilled76uk View Post
    Spent 2 days riding mine. Local natural stuff and a full day at a trail centre.

    Absolutely love it! It's the first bike since I got on a 2012 mk1 Banshee Spitfire that has made me just grin!

    Coming off an SB6C I'm finding it carries speed through chatter brilliantly, it's confidence inspiring on the super rough and very steep stuff.

    Imho it doesn't climb that well though, my Yeti was definitely more efficient in that area. Really feels like a mini DH bike which I can pedal back up - what it's aimed at I guess!

    I went large at 5ft11 with very long arms and legs for my height and I'm VERY happy I didn't go medium. I wanted a long bike and this has delivered.

    I've fitted a 170mm drop reverb in it with it 6mm from slammed. Won't go any lower and that's with the non connectamajig fitted (strain relief connection).

    BEST bike I've ever ridden, I absolutely love it!
    Sweet!

    I've replied under my other name on your STW thread

    How you finding the Reverb length? Is it perfect for your leg length? I'm assuming you're like a 34" inside leg?

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  20. #1320
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    Anyone have the Pike 140mm on the front?
    I want to upgrade the Centerline rotor from 180 to 200. Figured I would try this first instead of replacing the Guides.
    Anyways, if I want to put a 200 rotor up front, do I need an adapter? What is the post on the fork, is it 160 or 180?

  21. #1321
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Anyone have the Pike 140mm on the front?
    I want to upgrade the Centerline rotor from 180 to 200. Figured I would try this first instead of replacing the Guides.
    Anyways, if I want to put a 200 rotor up front, do I need an adapter? What is the post on the fork, is it 160 or 180?
    It's a 180mm on the Pike, SRAM Centerline come in 203mm I believe, so you'll need a 23mm post mount adapter.

    Shimano do these for about £9.

    One of these: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...&sku=sku499636

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  22. #1322
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    Quote Originally Posted by chilled76uk View Post
    Spent 2 days riding mine. Local natural stuff and a full day at a trail centre.

    Absolutely love it! It's the first bike since I got on a 2012 mk1 Banshee Spitfire that has made me just grin!

    Coming off an SB6C I'm finding it carries speed through chatter brilliantly, it's confidence inspiring on the super rough and very steep stuff.

    Imho it doesn't climb that well though, my Yeti was definitely more efficient in that area. Really feels like a mini DH bike which I can pedal back up - what it's aimed at I guess!

    I went large at 5ft11 with very long arms and legs for my height and I'm VERY happy I didn't go medium. I wanted a long bike and this has delivered.

    I've fitted a 170mm drop reverb in it with it 6mm from slammed. Won't go any lower and that's with the non connectamajig fitted (strain relief connection).

    BEST bike I've ever ridden, I absolutely love it!
    Interesting. I thought it climbed as well as the 130 I demoed at the same time. Everyone is different though. I like hearing opinions like this.

  23. #1323
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    It's a 180mm on the Pike, SRAM Centerline come in 203mm I believe, so you'll need a 23mm post mount adapter.

    Shimano do these for about £9.

    One of these: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...&sku=sku499636

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    Actually 200mm is the common size for a centerline but you can find a 203mm if you look hard enough. With the 203, however, you need the Shimano SM-MA-F203 P/PM adapter. Sticking with a 200mm and you simply need a 20S standard bolt kit with spacers. It's all rather confusing but you don't need the CPS washers. And you only need a bracket if going 203.

  24. #1324
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    Kerpoise.. yes 34" inside leg exactly and it's good for road transitions at full height. Easy enough to drop it 10mm for technical climbs etc. I like it. I spent a long time with a tape measure deliberating on whether to go 150mm or 170mm and glad I went 170.

  25. #1325
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    Anyone running a 160mm fork?

    This thing has got me wanting to get on some uplift days!

    Thought I might swap the 150mm air spring in my Lyrik for the newer debonair one and up it to 160mm at the same time.

    I see they now offer the builds with 160mm that they didn't initially

  26. #1326
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    Quote Originally Posted by chilled76uk View Post
    Anyone running a 160mm fork?

    This thing has got me wanting to get on some uplift days!

    Thought I might swap the 150mm air spring in my Lyrik for the newer debonair one and up it to 160mm at the same time.

    I see they now offer the builds with 160mm that they didn't initially
    I've had the same thought, I reckon i'd pop in a -1 degree Angleset, then a 160 fork, to keep the bb height sensible.

    There's a chap on here running at 160 though, if you do a search.

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  27. #1327
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    I've had the same thought, I reckon i'd pop in a -1 degree Angleset, then a 160 fork, to keep the bb height sensible.

    There's a chap on here running at 160 though, if you do a search.

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    Main thing to consider running it at 160 is whether or not you want to stick with the same 51mm offset. Seems like 44mm would be better. Debating whether to lower my Lyrik from 160 to 150 from the get-go but I have the recommended 51mm offset. My guess is 150 is better balanced. Kinda depends on one's terrain and riding style. Overforked and you get a floppy response from the front end at slow speed.

  28. #1328
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    I've had the same thought, I reckon i'd pop in a -1 degree Angleset, then a 160 fork, to keep the bb height sensible.

    There's a chap on here running at 160 though, if you do a search.
    While I'm super happy with my fork at 150, I've been considering going to a 160 and XLOW for race days. Takes the BB to within a couple of mm of the 140 fork in LOW. I figure that would be ok for Enduro days where I'm not climbing technical single track all the time. And, it would be easier to get back to the regular config for my regular riding.

    I can see the appeal of going 160 and using an angleset to keep the STA steeper though. To be honest though, I had a 160 Fox 36 around that I originally built the bike up with and I liked it just fine without going to XLOW or using an angleset. I'll be interested to hear how it feels with a -1.

  29. #1329
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallen View Post
    While I'm super happy with my fork at 150, I've been considering going to a 160 and XLOW for race days. Takes the BB to within a couple of mm of the 140 fork in LOW. I figure that would be ok for Enduro days where I'm not climbing technical single track all the time. And, it would be easier to get back to the regular config for my regular riding.

    I can see the appeal of going 160 and using an angleset to keep the STA steeper though. To be honest though, I had a 160 Fox 36 around that I originally built the bike up with and I liked it just fine without going to XLOW or using an angleset. I'll be interested to hear how it feels with a -1.
    I've got a -1 works headset on order, I'll post up how it goes! Should give similar figures as my insurgent with a 160 fork in xlow

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  30. #1330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    How many of you have the 11.6? I'm not usually one to turn away from some sexy, but a 700 upcharge is not exactly chump change.
    I originally went with a DPX2 and liked how it felt. Took a little time to adjust in the rear pressure, but not too bad. At 30% on the sag meter I was blown away by how well the bike pedaled. Coming off a Yeti SB55 this felt just as good and climbed better due to the steeper STA for me. Only thing I found was that it wasn't as supple as my Calling or the Insurgents that I've ridden - possibly due to the shock tune. I ended up running a bit more sag.

    I had an 11.6 from the Yeti that I was selling since the trunnion mount made it a little more to convert than I wanted to spend. The sb55 really needed the 11.6 while the Evil bikes seem to hit the sweet spot for me with an air shock. After not getting any real bites on the 11.6, I decided to convert it anyway and rode it for the first time yesterday.

    I was blown away by how good this bike is with a coil! I'm about 190 full kit with a 500# spring. It pedals better than the sb55, which says a lot, but kept all the supple feel of the air shock running a bit more sag. I think it's a lot better than the DPX2. I'm not sure you need the Push to be honest though. I had a trail and a DH setting and I deliberately tried some of the harder climbs in DH and couldn't tell much of a difference. I think the coil letting me ride higher in the sag makes the difference. A Cane Creek or DHX2 would probably be pretty close. If I was going coil from the get go though, I would just take the Push upgrade.

    Is it better than the SD? Not sure. I didn't like the SD on the Calling so, I went straight to a DPX2 on the Offering. Maybe you can tune the SD on the Offering to feel the same way.

  31. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    What are peoples' thoughts on reducing derailleur clutch tension to mitigate pedal kickback? I've never read anything on it, but it's a thought that I had recently.

    If you want to reduce kickback you want a bigger chainring not less clutch tension. Though I think the delta link is pretty good regarding kickback, especially considering how well it pedals.

  32. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    I've got a -1 works headset on order, I'll post up how it goes! Should give similar figures as my insurgent with a 160 fork in xlow

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    Cool! If I go Offering, I'm going 160. Debating the angleset.

  33. #1333
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    My experience with going from a 150 to 160 fork on my Hightower LT was the difference was very small for ride height and climbing. This is because of the increased sag you get and that we just get used to it and you adapt quickly. Also note that Lyrik forks have 5mm of neg travel off the top.

    Now with my offering I am 150mm, but only because I had the fork. Considering the smashpot (vorsprung) which converts the air to coil and comes with spacers to easily adjust travel. Feels pricey at $400 CAD but given a new Fox36 Grip2 is $1500 CAD it may not be a bad deal.

  34. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelownamike View Post
    My experience with going from a 150 to 160 fork on my Hightower LT was the difference was very small for ride height and climbing. This is because of the increased sag you get and that we just get used to it and you adapt quickly. Also note that Lyrik forks have 5mm of neg travel off the top.

    Now with my offering I am 150mm, but only because I had the fork. Considering the smashpot (vorsprung) which converts the air to coil and comes with spacers to easily adjust travel. Feels pricey at $400 CAD but given a new Fox36 Grip2 is $1500 CAD it may not be a bad deal.
    And last I knew, Fox has a shorter A2C measurement when compared to a Lyrik.

  35. #1335
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    Jwind, how do you find the offering vs insurgent?

    Iíve had an insurgent, then patrol now on a 2018 nomad which Iíve had for around 18 months now and still really like but canít get the idea of a shortish travel fun, aggressive 29er out of my head. I always loved delta link but wanted more travel than the following and not as much as the wreck, plus this geo is really dialled too..

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by BakerFitness View Post
    If you want to reduce kickback you want a bigger chainring not less clutch tension. Though I think the delta link is pretty good regarding kickback, especially considering how well it pedals.
    If you compress the suspension in a large cog, you will see how much the derailleur moves. However, I have read that pedal kickback stems from the top portion of the chain as it's in tension. The lower portion would have a much lesser effect, so I think I'm mostly wrong about the derailleur and clutch causing a problem.

  37. #1337
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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    If you compress the suspension in a large cog, you will see how much the derailleur moves. However, I have read that pedal kickback stems from the top portion of the chain as it's in tension. The lower portion would have a much lesser effect, so I think I'm mostly wrong about the derailleur and clutch causing a problem.
    Youíre right regarding it being from the top of the chain, hence why a bigger chainring helps as it changes the angle of the chain to the cassette. Iíd never run lower than a 32, especially with cassettes these days. If you need 30t with eagle thereís something wrong with your legs regardless of how big your climbs are... You can get off and push faster then that 😂

  38. #1338
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    Im sure there are a lot of ppl running a 30t with their eagle and have nothing wrong with their legs.

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  39. #1339
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Im sure there are a lot of ppl running a 30t with their eagle and have nothing wrong with their legs.

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    Ok but Iíd rather work on my fitness a touch and have suspension that works how itís designed to. 32 or 34 with a 50 cassette is still a crazy climbing gear.

  40. #1340
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    Quote Originally Posted by BakerFitness View Post
    Ok but Iíd rather work on my fitness a touch and have suspension that works how itís designed to. 32 or 34 with a 50 cassette is still a crazy climbing gear.
    Unless you are faced with a 5000' climb at a sustained 10% grade. Most mortals will dial up granny on the bat phone. But what do I know I'm running a 32t with a 11sp 10-42.

  41. #1341
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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    If you compress the suspension in a large cog, you will see how much the derailleur moves. However, I have read that pedal kickback stems from the top portion of the chain as it's in tension. The lower portion would have a much lesser effect, so I think I'm mostly wrong about the derailleur and clutch causing a problem.
    The derailleur clutch can cause harshness in small bump if antisquat is high around the sag position. It can feel like kickback in chatter.

  42. #1342
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    Quote Originally Posted by BakerFitness View Post
    Jwind, how do you find the offering vs insurgent?

    Iíve had an insurgent, then patrol now on a 2018 nomad which Iíve had for around 18 months now and still really like but canít get the idea of a shortish travel fun, aggressive 29er out of my head. I always loved delta link but wanted more travel than the following and not as much as the wreck, plus this geo is really dialled too..
    I don't have one. I've owned an insurgent, wreckoning and MB however.

  43. #1343
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Unless you are faced with a 5000' climb at a sustained 10% grade. Most mortals will dial up granny on the bat phone. But what do I know I'm running a 32t with a 11sp 10-42.
    Quote Originally Posted by BakerFitness
    Ok but Iíd rather work on my fitness a touch and have suspension that works how itís designed to. 32 or 34 with a 50 cassette is still a crazy climbing gear.
    .
    30T on an eagle is pretty common in Colorado. Wheel size makes a difference however. For the 27.5 crowd, I see a lot more 32T rings.

  44. #1344
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    30T on an eagle is pretty common in Colorado. Wheel size makes a difference however. For the 27.5 crowd, I see a lot more 32T rings.
    I run 30t eagle on my 27.5 Calling in Colorado. That last extra gear comes in handy for long, steep climbs.

    I ran 28t on my 29ers in the past. Inability to run 28t on Offering has prevented me from purchasing one, although I may reconsider when new XTR is released.

  45. #1345
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    True, wheel size makes a difference.

    Evil The Following MB 2018 - Linkage Design

    This is for the following mb though Iím guessing the offering is similar. Itís already got very high percentages so Iíd probably run a 34t but definitely wouldnít want to make it worse by running a 30t. Depends what kind of riding you do but for rocky, loose, fast riding that induces pedal kickback, it wouldnít be ideal to run a smaller chainring if you wanted the best suspension performance. Hope this helps some people that are feeling this bike has too much kickback and can compromise their climbing gear a touch.

  46. #1346
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    People think about long climbs and low gears but forget about straight up steeps with switchbacks. Too big of gears and you lose traction or stall out in the corner and end up on your shoulder.

  47. #1347
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    Iím not ashamed to admit Iíd be going with 28T if it fit!

  48. #1348
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    Quote Originally Posted by BakerFitness View Post
    True, wheel size makes a difference.

    Evil The Following MB 2018 - Linkage Design

    This is for the following mb though Iím guessing the offering is similar. Itís already got very high percentages so Iíd probably run a 34t but definitely wouldnít want to make it worse by running a 30t. Depends what kind of riding you do but for rocky, loose, fast riding that induces pedal kickback, it wouldnít be ideal to run a smaller chainring if you wanted the best suspension performance. Hope this helps some people that are feeling this bike has too much kickback and can compromise their climbing gear a touch.
    Compared to other bikes i've ridden, "kickback" is a non issues on Evils IMO. Not that I don't believe the random dude on blogspot.

  49. #1349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    Compared to other bikes i've ridden, "kickback" is a non issues on Evils IMO. Not that I don't believe the random dude on blogspot.
    I agree. I've read others describe Evil kickback. I experience a little stiffening and kickback with hard rear braking over stutter bumps, but haven't experienced pedal kickback otherwise.

    As opposed, to say, early gen VPP bikes which drove me nuts.

  50. #1350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    Compared to other bikes i've ridden, "kickback" is a non issues on Evils IMO. Not that I don't believe the random dude on blogspot.
    😂 Heís actually incredibly knowledgeable and itís a really interesting site, nothing ďrandomĒ about it... If you read it he doesnít say anything bad, just stats facts and it helps a lot if you want to get an idea how a bike may ride before you buy it along with geometry. Which in Australia is important as we canít demo bikes like in the states.

    As I said previously, the kickback on the insurgent didnít bother me and delta link is probably the best system Iíve used along with the new vpp on my nomad... only trying to help people whoíve said itís an issue. Regardless of what you feel, it is high and a bigger chainring will help, simple.

  51. #1351
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    Currently, I'm running a 30T with a OneUped 47T in the rear. I will probably switch to XTR and go for a 32T, when I can get my hands on it.

    That said, I could also use a 28T. There is a climb that I do regularly in NorCal that has sustained grades of 12%, with some sections as steep as 16%. You need everything you've got for 1000ft of that. Honestly though, walking pace is probably as fast, at times, and it saves your legs for the descent.

  52. #1352
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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    Currently, I'm running a 30T with a OneUped 47T in the rear. I will probably switch to XTR and go for a 32T, when I can get my hands on it.

    That said, I could also use a 28T. There is a climb that I do regularly in NorCal that has sustained grades of 12%, with some sections as steep as 16%. You need everything you've got for 1000ft of that. Honestly though, walking pace is probably as fast, at times, and it saves your legs for the descent.
    Haha yep thereís definitely moments where sometimes itís better to swallow your pride and push for a bit. Anyone thatís got the fitness can ride a steep fireroad but doesnít mean your legs wonít be cooked when you could of just jumped off for a bit.

    Obviously techy climbs are different, everyone should attempt those 😬

  53. #1353
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    I apologize for only skimming the posts about this, but are any of you guys who experience "kickback" running a lower chain guide?

    In my past experience racing ATVs, chain slack and tightness changing throughout suspension travel was an issue, especially when I was running them at sag beyond original design. The cure was to run an idler on both the top and bottom sides of the chain close to the suspension pivot point. This help tremendously due to keeping the chain "pivot" at the suspension pivot point instead of the front sprocket.

  54. #1354
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    Took off the rear wheel for some love and found some nice scratches which Iím presuming is from small rocks sticking between the knobs. Anybody else have this issue? Oh, and heli tape applied now on upper and lower.

    The Evil OFFERING....-88defd90-c5b1-4cef-a396-0935d38d7f74.jpg

    The Evil OFFERING....-50e399e8-f60f-4b8f-a4b2-fe8016613b5e.jpgClick image for larger version. 

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  55. #1355
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    I put a ton of protective tape on that area when I was building mine up, mostly because I was planning on running a 2.5" tire. It's probably wise just not to look at it. Not exactly a structural issue.

  56. #1356
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    Would be a great thing if bike brands would ship frames with protection tape in these areas, just like how they have chain and down tube guards fitted from the factory.

  57. #1357
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    Alternatively, put a mudguard.


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  58. #1358
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Alternatively, put a mudguard.


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    Do they make mudguards for the rear though?

  59. #1359
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    Quote Originally Posted by abstrakt51 View Post
    Took off the rear wheel for some love and found some nice scratches which Iím presuming is from small rocks sticking between the knobs. Anybody else have this issue? Oh, and heli tape applied now on upper and lower.
    Not an issue. Just a bike being used.

  60. #1360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legoman View Post
    Do they make mudguards for the rear though?
    Those fork fenders made of softer plastics can be mounted on the rear



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  61. #1361
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    Mine is completely ripped up in that area, but otherwise not too concerned.

    Super Unknown

  62. #1362
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Squeaky Wheel View Post
    I agree. I've read others describe Evil kickback. I experience a little stiffening and kickback with hard rear braking over stutter bumps, but haven't experienced pedal kickback otherwise.

    As opposed, to say, early gen VPP bikes which drove me nuts.
    Those were bad. Not as bad as their single pivots. I still find the DELTA better than the current VPP bikes. Then again, I spin squares and mash. Wish i was a better spinner Ė just not wired that way I guess.

  63. #1363
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    Those who've changed the shock on their Offering... In what order did you remove the shock bolts? Did you remove the whole delta link?

    I'd usually remove the top and bottom bolts only, but undoing the top bolt it looks like it's captive, so just pushes the linkage out.

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  64. #1364
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    *edit*
    Last edited by abstrakt51; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:36 PM. Reason: Trying to delete post

  65. #1365
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    I'd put tape there. You dont want to rub through the carbon layup.

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  66. #1366
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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    I put a ton of protective tape on that area when I was building mine up, mostly because I was planning on running a 2.5" tire. It's probably wise just not to look at it. Not exactly a structural issue.
    Gnarly. First time on a plastic rig and a big wheeler. Good to know itís common.

  67. #1367
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Those who've changed the shock on their Offering... In what order did you remove the shock bolts? Did you remove the whole delta link?

    I'd usually remove the top and bottom bolts only, but undoing the top bolt it looks like it's captive, so just pushes the linkage out.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    There are some spacers between the links and the top mounting holes that are an interference fit on mine. I just slide it forward, pop them out, then undo the bottom bolt. My 11.6 seems to sit a bit to the drive side of the frame so itís not perfectly centered. Thinking there must be enough flex in the linkage system to not side load the shock too much.

  68. #1368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stupordave View Post
    There are some spacers between the links and the top mounting holes that are an interference fit on mine. I just slide it forward, pop them out, then undo the bottom bolt. My 11.6 seems to sit a bit to the drive side of the frame so itís not perfectly centered. Thinking there must be enough flex in the linkage system to not side load the shock too much.
    When you say you slide it forward ... What are you sliding forward? Usually I'd just undo the top and bottom mounts, then unweight the shock, then pop out the bolts too, then bottom.



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  69. #1369
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    When you say you slide it forward ... What are you sliding forward? Usually I'd just undo the top and bottom mounts, then unweight the shock, then pop out the bolts too, then bottom..

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    Guess I could have said, slide up, slide back..etc. just really have to almost snap the shock out from between the links.

  70. #1370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stupordave View Post
    Guess I could have said, slide up, slide back..etc. just really have to almost snap the shock out from between the links.
    Ok cool.

    But does your delta link push out from the shock when you're unscrewing the top bolt? The bolt head stays flush with the delta link, and pushes the link outwards, rather than the bolt head just unscrewing out from the link.

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  71. #1371
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    I replaced the Shock right out of the box. Started with the bottom bolt so I could ease the rear triangle through its stroke rather than just letting it fall. Then moved to the two trunnion bolts on the top. Warning, there is a spacer on each of those top bolts that REALLY wants to jump on to the floor. Be careful not to lose them. No need to mess with the delta system at all but another set of hands for reassembly would make the job much easier.
    Cheers
    Jeff
    Last edited by NC Kingsting; 1 Week Ago at 07:44 PM.

  72. #1372
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    Quote Originally Posted by NC Kingsting View Post
    I replaced the Shock fight out of the box. Started with the bottom bolt so I could ease the rear trianglt through its stroke rather than just letting it fall. Then moved to the two trunnion bolts on the top. Warning, there is a spacer on each of those top bolts that REALLY wants to jump on to the floor. Be careful not to lose them. No need to mess with the delta system at all but another set of hands for reassembly would make the job much easier.
    Cheers
    Jeff
    Cheers Jeff,

    Sounds like my top trunnion bolts are binding on the delta link a bit then!

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  73. #1373
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    I just built up an Offering last night and have a question for you guys running the Fox DPX2 shock. What settings are you running? I'm 190lbs on a size XL. Air Pressure around 250psi. I have the rebound knob adjusted all the way closed (slow) and it still seems a bit fast (another 2 clicks would be ideal). Is the rebound funky on this shock or do I have a dud?

  74. #1374
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    On the upper mounts, bolts pop out on mine rather than pushing out the sides of the links.

  75. #1375
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirttrackin280h View Post
    I just built up an Offering last night and have a question for you guys running the Fox DPX2 shock. What settings are you running? I'm 190lbs on a size XL. Air Pressure around 250psi. I have the rebound knob adjusted all the way closed (slow) and it still seems a bit fast (another 2 clicks would be ideal). Is the rebound funky on this shock or do I have a dud?
    Doesnít seem right but perhaps . I ran a DPX2 on my switchblade with pressures around 230psi and ran rebound in the middle (8 or 9 in). Admitingly I like a fast rebound but all the way in on mine was really slow. I do recall the first 4-5 clicks didnít change the settings much.

  76. #1376
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    Quick question for the evil suspension gurus. Does the ramp of the suspension curve change between low and xlow? Seems like I get about the same sag in each setting but seem to hit the travel bottom on low vs xlow...only confirmed by sag indicator though. Seems to be rotated to the max position after a hard ride in low but leaves about 7-10 degrees of rotation when in xlow. Perhaps itís just something to do with the sag indicator between the two settings?

  77. #1377
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    all evils get scrathced there part of their design.

  78. #1378
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenwood72 View Post
    all evils get scrathced there part of their design.
    And so did every Ibis I've owned.

  79. #1379
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    Well, 160mm Lyrik shaft on order. With the fork at 160 and the angleset at -1, that should keep the bb height about the same, but make it a weapon on the steeps.

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  80. #1380
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Well, 160mm Lyrik shaft on order. With the fork at 160 and the angleset at -1, that should keep the bb height about the same, but make it a weapon on the steeps.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    I think it will make it into a Wreckoning.


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    2015 Evil Following

  81. #1381
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHsurfer View Post
    I think it will make it into a Wreckoning.


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    But with longer reach, and a steep seat angle

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  82. #1382
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    But with longer reach, and a steep seat angle
    This. Where does this put the HA?

  83. #1383
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    I'm interested in this as well. Or, at least rider feedback with a 160 Lyrik. I have the air shaft to lower it to 150 but might wait. No plans to run an angleset. Build has commenced!

  84. #1384
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    I'm interested in this as well. Or, at least rider feedback with a 160 Lyrik. I have the air shaft to lower it to 150 but might wait. No plans to run an angleset. Build has commenced!
    Please report back about the lyrik. I will be running a 160 only question is if it's an angleset or not.

  85. #1385
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    I'm interested in this as well. Or, at least rider feedback with a 160 Lyrik. I have the air shaft to lower it to 150 but might wait. No plans to run an angleset. Build has commenced!
    Head angle with angleset is 64.6, with a 160 fork that'll be around 63.6ish, probably closer to 63.8 with the sag.

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  86. #1386
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Head angle with angleset is 64.6, with a 160 fork that'll be around 63.6ish, probably closer to 63.8 with the sag.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    I've been quoted 10-14 days for my angleset, so will be a while! I can get the 160 shaft in beforehand and let you know how that feels compared to the 150. That should be this week.

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  87. #1387
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Head angle with angleset is 64.6, with a 160 fork that'll be around 63.6ish, probably closer to 63.8 with the sag.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    63.6 with the 160mm? That's a bit too slack for me.

  88. #1388
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    For the 11/6 (elevensix, 11-6, push) crowd that read or heard about the shock rubbing the cables during compression. Fanatik has the fix it idea.


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  89. #1389
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsray152 View Post
    For the 11/6 (elevensix, 11-6, push) crowd that read or heard about the shock rubbing the cables during compression. Fanatik has the fix it idea.


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    You can actually make something similar with stuff you likely have in your garage. When I had a Following MB I used cable ties and a couple of small plastic tubes to create a tie stand off from the original tie down points.

    Sorry, I couldn't find a better pic but if you can zoom in you can see what I'm talking about. What you need are small plastic tubes (think like the ferrules you use at the end of your deraileaur cables but a little wider) that you can run a cable ties thru and back out of.

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  90. #1390
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    63.6 with the 160mm? That's a bit too slack for me.
    Since you sag front and rear, shouldn't the HA remain roughly the same at sag as it is static?

    Evil lists the 160mm fork as 65.8 in LOW and I think that is for a Lyrik. Angle set would put it at 64.8 or a little steeper if using a Fox 36. I rode the bike originally with a 36 at 160 in LOW and it rode just fine for a trail bike. I think a degree slacker for a bike focused on downhill would still be pretty good for this bike. Maybe not great for everyday trail riding though. I'll be interested to hear how it works out for kerpoise.

  91. #1391
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    You can actually make something similar with stuff you likely have in your garage. When I had a Following MB I used cable ties and a couple of small plastic tubes to create a tie stand off from the original tie down points.

    Sorry, I couldn't find a better pic but if you can zoom in you can see what I'm talking about. What you need are small plastic tubes (think like the ferrules you use at the end of your deraileaur cables but a little wider) that you can run a cable ties thru and back out of.

    [/IMG]
    The rub worried me a bit since it was the brake line that hit. Glad someone brought it up on this thread before I rode it. I like the Jagwire piece here, but I ended up putting some frame protectant around the frame by the bottom cable anchor and then ziptieing the housing to the frame spread out like the Jagwire does. Cable doesn't rub and so far seems good not to do any damage to the housing from the ziptie.

    I'd like to try the Jagwire holder, but I would worry that I would knock it off during a ride at some point. I'll probably give it a try anyway.

  92. #1392
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    For what it is, that Jagwire part is pretty expensive. I think I was quoted over $12 the last time I looked into it.

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  93. #1393
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    Anyone with a blue offering and a turquise i9 hub? Would like to see how it looks

  94. #1394
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallen View Post
    Since you sag front and rear, shouldn't the HA remain roughly the same at sag as it is static?

    Evil lists the 160mm fork as 65.8 in LOW and I think that is for a Lyrik. Angle set would put it at 64.8 or a little steeper if using a Fox 36. I rode the bike originally with a 36 at 160 in LOW and it rode just fine for a trail bike. I think a degree slacker for a bike focused on downhill would still be pretty good for this bike. Maybe not great for everyday trail riding though. I'll be interested to hear how it works out for kerpoise.
    You calcs seem correct. However, HA gets slacker as the back compresses due the way it pivots. I'm not concerned about that. I'm totally torn. Pretty sure my wreckoning is dead on 65 with a lyrik in the low position and I like it.

  95. #1395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    You calcs seem correct. However, HA gets slacker as the back compresses due the way it pivots. I'm not concerned about that. I'm totally torn. Pretty sure my wreckoning is dead on 65 with a lyrik in the low position and I like it.
    Not trying to be argumentative, just asking. The fork sags as well, so that should kind of counteract the tendency to slacken the HA as the rear sags right? I know my hardtail gets steeper as I sag the fork.

    Since itís a dynamic number, I would think comparing static angle numbers would be as close to apples to apples you can get?

  96. #1396
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallen View Post
    Not trying to be argumentative, just asking. The fork sags as well, so that should kind of counteract the tendency to slacken the HA as the rear sags right? I know my hardtail gets steeper as I sag the fork.

    Since itís a dynamic number, I would think comparing static angle numbers would be as close to apples to apples you can get?
    Sorry guys, I seem to have caused some confusing with talk of sag!

    I didn't mean the static or sagged angles change, I meant 20% fork sag on a 150 fork Vs 20% fork sag on a 160 fork isn't the same as just adding 10mm onto the axle to crown, as the actual difference will be a bit more.

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  97. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirttrackin280h View Post
    I just built up an Offering last night and have a question for you guys running the Fox DPX2 shock. What settings are you running? I'm 190lbs on a size XL. Air Pressure around 250psi. I have the rebound knob adjusted all the way closed (slow) and it still seems a bit fast (another 2 clicks would be ideal). Is the rebound funky on this shock or do I have a dud?
    Did you let all the air out and air it back up according to the manual (exercise it every 50psi increment)? Itís pretty funky until you do that Iíve found. I had to do that to two different bikes.

  98. #1398
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    Hawker800mech,

    I did. But might try doing it again. I talked to Evil and they said they designed the bike with a low tune because they found the bike's performance is much better with a faster rebound.

  99. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirttrackin280h View Post
    Hawker800mech,

    I did. But might try doing it again. I talked to Evil and they said they designed the bike with a low tune because they found the bike's performance is much better with a faster rebound.
    Good to know. My frame showed up today and Iíll be building it up over the next few days.

  100. #1400
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    Homemade fix similar to a few others. Two small tubes (old heat shrink tubing) cut to butt up against the cable tie-down, zip tie routed through the cable tie-down and around each cable. Works like a champ! Thanks for the ideas above.

    The Evil OFFERING....-2b80fe6d-7e96-4b58-a217-21d890009f5f.jpgThe Evil OFFERING....-3c9ec02e-0883-4ae7-8a95-d12512f4d3ac.jpg

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