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  1. #3101
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    Iím 5í7Ē with 29Ē inseam slightly longer in body and im on a medium mb and had a medium v1 after finding the v1 small fun but bit a bit cramped. being on the cusp of sizes I think youíll find both sizes will fit, but itís entirely down to personal riding preferences and bike set-up. Im mostly riding my mb as 27.5+/ 140mm fork/ low position and it definitely feels more roomy than the v1, but in know way stretched out and is plenty playful. Iíve had a handful of rides with 29 hoops on and fit is still right for me just prefer 27.5+ on twisty technical singletrack trails which make up most of my riding. Hope that helps a bit, because Iím guessing itís as hard for you as it was for me to find a small and medium to demo.

  2. #3102
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    Iím 5í8íí and have a medium Following MB wonít go smaller

  3. #3103
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    Hey guys, I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on an Evil 'The Following' MB in orange. I plan on running it as a 29er, and I am wanting some advice on fork selection. I'm pretty inclined to go with a Coil fork instead of an air fork. And the only coil fork I can find comes in 140mm.

    My question, therefore, is if anyone else has any experience running the Following with a 140mm fork. I know the bike is designed for a 120-130mm. But I really do want a coil fork. The MRP Ribbon fork. I've run coil forks in the past and they are hands down superior even if a bit more heavy.

    Really excited to build up this bike.

    Thanks.

  4. #3104
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    I run a 140 mm fork (Pike) on the Following V1 and like it a lot. Use it for trail riding in the New England area. I think you'll be fine running 140 on the MB.

  5. #3105
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    Thank much. I'm actually from Waltham MA. But I currently live here in Bellingham WA, just about an hour south of Whistler BC. I can ride year round here, as it rarely snows in town here, and I also ride right to the trail head of Galbraith Mt, which has an awesome trail network which includes a lot of built-flow and jump trails. So this bike will serve me well here...and I'll def. put it to good use. Really can't wait to build it up! Almost chose the olive color over the orange because it's a quarter of a pound lighter believe it or not, but my favorite color is orange on a bike...sooo...I just have to go with it!

    Heard GREAT things about this bike, and KEEP ON hearing great things. With the introduction of the new MB with boost rear end and awesome upgrade in shock, I decided it was time to do it!

    -C

  6. #3106
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    Ha, small world. I lived in Waltham for 4 years after getting out of school. I've been in Milford since then for about the last 18 years. Milford is a great location in MA for riding, but I think you definitely upgraded. Orange is worth the extra .25 lbs definitely. My V1 is the 'toxic green' which I also really like. I was never into the 'stealth' bike look, I like color. Have fun with the new ride, you won't be disappointed.

  7. #3107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skrool View Post
    My question, therefore, is if anyone else has any experience running the Following with a 140mm fork. I know the bike is designed for a 120-130mm. But I really do want a coil fork. The MRP Ribbon fork. I've run coil forks in the past and they are hands down superior even if a bit more heavy.
    Another V1 user here. I started at 140mm, but eventually dropped down to 130. The bike was (slightly) more capable w/ the 140, but didn't turn as quick and not as playful. Where I landed was 130mm w/ keeping in X-LOW (+ shorter cranks... I use 165's). Had been the best of *every* world for me!

    That said, if I were in your shoes of setting up a new ride, I would definitely try to go coil, too. (Exciting that the metric shock on the back may eventually find coil replacements - want to try that!!).

    You may want to check w/ Darren at PUSH regarding any potential future lengths of his ACS-3 kit. There's an ACS-3 forum on here that he visits often to answer questions - and sometimes gives info about upcoming products. Seems like they're slowly expanding their line to accommodate more forks.

    Maybe you can get a fork which can be set up at either 130 or 140 (like my Pike) and get the 140 conversion kit now... and hope that they offer a 130mm coil option in the future?
    Dude - enjoy that ride!!

  8. #3108
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    Seems like there are two different opinions on the 140mm setup. Some say it's hardly noticeable, others say it hampers climbing and tighter stuff somewhat. The new trunion shock seems to be getting very positive reviews on this bike. People say it's noticably better than the former setup.

    But for the fork, I really do want to put a coil fork on it. And the only one I can find is the MRP Ribbon which only comes as low as 140mm. As for the Pike, it, as well, there is only a conversion kit for 140mm. So if I buy a brand new fork, I'd rather have it come already as a coil than to have to buy a Pike and then immediately convert it to coil. MRP would be the one to get I guess. All I know is that my most favorite fork of all time was the Marzocchi 66 Coil. I've never been all that impressed with any of the air forks I've had since that time. The one and only air fork that I had which DID impress me was the BOS Deville I had on my Knolly, which I no longer own, and which was 160mm.

    So I'm really wanting a coil fork setup on this build. I ride A LOT. Usually no less than 20 hours a week in winter, and double that in spring / summer / fall.

    Thanks for input brother. Much appreciated. Orange frame-set is now on the way!!!!

  9. #3109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skrool View Post
    Seems like there are two different opinions on the 140mm setup. Some say it's hardly noticeable, others say it hampers climbing and tighter stuff somewhat. The new trunion shock seems to be getting very positive reviews on this bike. People say it's noticably better than the former setup.

    But for the fork, I really do want to put a coil fork on it. And the only one I can find is the MRP Ribbon which only comes as low as 140mm. As for the Pike, it, as well, there is only a conversion kit for 140mm. So if I buy a brand new fork, I'd rather have it come already as a coil than to have to buy a Pike and then immediately convert it to coil. MRP would be the one to get I guess. All I know is that my most favorite fork of all time was the Marzocchi 66 Coil. I've never been all that impressed with any of the air forks I've had since that time. The one and only air fork that I had which DID impress me was the BOS Deville I had on my Knolly, which I no longer own, and which was 160mm.

    So I'm really wanting a coil fork setup on this build. I ride A LOT. Usually no less than 20 hours a week in winter, and double that in spring / summer / fall.

    Thanks for input brother. Much appreciated. Orange frame-set is now on the way!!!!
    I think the Ohlins RXF 36 Coil is adjustable 110-160mm in 10mm increments. Have a look on Fanatik's website for more details.

    I prefer the MB with a 130mm fork as it feels more balanced to me. However, with a 140mm fork it absolutely flies downhill.

  10. #3110
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    V1 Frame/Shock combo's are on sale for $1899 on the Evil website.

  11. #3111
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    Just found a Fox Float DPS Evol for the Following on Ebay for $245 shipped. Says there are more than 10 still available.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2017-FO...gAAOSw5dlaG5qy

  12. #3112
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    Anyone here running a Sram X1 crank on a V1 Following? The non drive side is super close to the rear triangle. This is with the no weight on the rear, and obviously with some weight isn't as close, as the angle ins't the same. Anyone else notice this?-img_0245.jpg

  13. #3113
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    That doesn't look right. What spindle length and q-factor crank you using?

  14. #3114
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    Unsure on the Q Factor length, but the spindle is 30mm.

  15. #3115
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    What's the length? Diameter shouldn't be an issue. (That's what she said )

    Most likely it's the q-factor. You need the 164mm

  16. #3116
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    The crank came off a 2015 Kona Process 111. Not sure what the length it then.

    Edit: I believe its 175MM, from reading the specs for the X1-1000 X-SYNC Crankset.

  17. #3117
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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    If a 203 mm rotor fits in the rear, should you? Or stick with the recommendee 185 evil advises?

  18. #3118
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    Setting up my new XL Following (V1) and have a rear shock question. The bike came with a Monarch RT3. Is this shock Clyde worthy or should I spring for the Fox DPS Evol ? Iím 230 geared up and ride in the Northeast.
    Thanks.

  19. #3119
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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    Quote Originally Posted by wiely View Post
    If a 203 mm rotor fits in the rear, should you? Or stick with the recommendee 185 evil advises?
    It will definitely fit with the correct adapter, but unless you ride a lot of downhill a 203 in the rear would be a little overkill. 203 front, 180 rear is perfect IMO.


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    Last edited by D Boogie C; 12-17-2017 at 06:49 PM.

  20. #3120
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBass_ View Post
    Setting up my new XL Following (V1) and have a rear shock question. The bike came with a Monarch RT3. Is this shock Clyde worthy or should I spring for the Fox DPS Evol ? Iím 230 geared up and ride in the Northeast.
    Thanks.
    Iím 220lb fully geared. And run around 280 psi with 3 volume spacers, which gives me a very plush progressive feel, with 30-35% sag. Play around with some volume spacers and higher psi, and you should be good.

  21. #3121
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    Thank ye Boogie! Will do.

  22. #3122
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    IMO- The Fanatik Bikes tuned Fox rear shock is significantly better then the Monarch. After a great deal of tuning (and a shock failure that was covered under warranty) the Monarch just was not to my liking. The Fox with the usual tuning for preference is Much better. A lot more supportive in the mid stroke while still plush at the beginning.

  23. #3123
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    Some Evil bike porn

    Just increased my Followings carbon footprint a new set of Nextie hoops!


    -img_5200.jpg-img_1588.jpg
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  24. #3124
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    Been lurking here, then finally pulled the trigger and get the last 2017 Medium gunmetal frame from fanatik. I was going to wait until February for tax return, but fanatik only had 1 for medium, it was $1899.
    I'm 5 8, coming from medium Ripley v1, the following will be about 1.5 in longer reach. I'm a bit worry that the reach will be too long for me, as i feel good with my Ripley.
    Will get my frame soon, and move all parts from Ripley to following.
    140 pike, box drivetrain, xtr brakes, xx1 crank, LB wheels with dt240, NN 2.6 / 2.25 f/r.
    A bit nervous... waiting waiting waiting.

  25. #3125
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    Has anyone tried the Crank Brothers Highline 160mm on a medium Following? Will it fit in the seat tube all the way to the collar?
    Or can someone tell me what the maximum insertion length is on the medium Following?

    Thanks
    Mr_Mojorisen

  26. #3126
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    Hey there - Iíve got an extra Monarch from the V1 Following if youíre still looking...and Iím also selling my V1 frame in a few weeks, Orange size Larg, exc shape. Iím moving up a frame size for added reach...

    Quote Originally Posted by sb1616ne View Post
    Anyone have an spare following shock that is in good shape they want to sell? Monarch or float is fine. I am guessing there are a bunch of people who have upgraded to a Fox and have monarchs collecting dust.
    ___________________________________

  27. #3127
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    So I sent my Monarch to Avalanche for a custom tune, and picked up the Fox DPS Evol for the Following off of ebay for cheap. I have the sag set correctly, but it blows through the travel, so I ordered a volume spacer set. Only problem is, I don't see this shock/stroke size on any Fox charts to know which spacers I can or can't use. Anyone have any experience and/or guidance? V1 Following.
    Last edited by rb_daniel; 01-24-2018 at 12:12 PM.

  28. #3128
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    Quote Originally Posted by rb_daniel View Post
    So I sent my Monarch to Avalanche for a custom tune, and picked up the Fox DPS Evol for the Following off of ebay for cheap. I have the sag set correctly, but it blows through the travel, so I ordered a volume spacer set. Only problem is, I don't see this shock/stroke size on any Fox charts to know which spacers I can or can't use. Anyone have any experience and/or guidance? V1 Following.
    Are you certain your Fox is a Following specific Fanatik tuned shock? If it is just the correct size shock to fit it will act the way you are describing, unfortunately.

  29. #3129
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    Quote Originally Posted by R3D24 View Post
    Are you certain your Fox is a Following specific Fanatik tuned shock? If it is just the correct size shock to fit it will act the way you are describing, unfortunately.
    It is tuned for the Following.

  30. #3130
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    Quote Originally Posted by rb_daniel View Post
    It is tuned for the Following.
    Have you tried putting in your custom tune id on fox's site C8JJ ? if I remember correctly

  31. #3131
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    Quote Originally Posted by st.pauli View Post
    Have you tried putting in your custom tune id on fox's site C8JJ ? if I remember correctly
    Yeah, but it doesn't really help with which spacers I can use. That is the tune ID, though. I ordered the correct spacer kit for a float dps, but I just don't want to put a spacer in that I'm not supposed to use, and that worry is coming from the chart at this url.

    2002-2018 Air Volume Reduction (FLOAT, FLOAT X, and DHX Air Rear Shocks) | Bike Help Center | FOX

    Maybe I just follow the chart for the 1.75 stroke length, since the 1.68 is just a reduced 1.75? Maybe (very possibly) I'm just confused by the chart?

  32. #3132
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    Quote Originally Posted by rb_daniel View Post
    Yeah, but it doesn't really help with which spacers I can use. That is the tune ID, though. I ordered the correct spacer kit for a float dps, but I just don't want to put a spacer in that I'm not supposed to use, and that worry is coming from the chart at this url.

    2002-2018 Air Volume Reduction (FLOAT, FLOAT X, and DHX Air Rear Shocks) | Bike Help Center | FOX

    Maybe I just follow the chart for the 1.75 stroke length, since the 1.68 is just a reduced 1.75? Maybe (very possibly) I'm just confused by the chart?
    That chart is confusing,I would say your right about going off the 1.75 chart but maybe worth giving the guys at fanatik a shout just to be sure.

  33. #3133
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    Quote Originally Posted by rb_daniel View Post
    So I sent my Monarch to Avalanche for a custom tune, and picked up the Fox DPS Evol for the Following off of ebay for cheap. I have the sag set correctly, but it blows through the travel, so I ordered a volume spacer set. Only problem is, I don't see this shock/stroke size on any Fox charts to know which spacers I can or can't use. Anyone have any experience and/or guidance? V1 Following.
    Wow, I did almost exactly what you're trying to do. Here are my 2 cents that I posted on Evil Fb group.

    To fellow the following V1 owners
    I had an opportunity to own both Avalanche tuned monarch and Fox from Fanatik. I had enough rides with Fox on my local trails and I'm ready to share my 2 cents.

    They have very different ride characteristics. I'm gonna break down below.

    Climb
    Fox is faster than Monarch due to heavier compression (even set at the lightest compression and Descend mode) on smooth terrains. It climbs like an XC bike. It gets up and goes, but occasionally loses the traction on rougher surfaces. The suspension has a great platform even when standing.

    Monarch on Pedal mode (which is the base setting for Avalanche Monarch) is ideal for trail bikes. It climbs almost as good as Fox on smooth surfaces, but the traction is always there. You don't have to feel/think about what the rear end is doing. It even rockets up when standing with its velcro like traction. It shines greatly on up and down trails that you want to carry your momentums.
    Monarch on Open mode is about the same as Pedal mode except for losing a bit of efficiency when standing.

    Descend
    Fox is probably faster on smooth terrains with hero dirt due to its pumping efficiency. It takes a big hit as good as Monarch. The bike accelerates greatly when it's pumped. Unfortunately, the good parts end right here. I struggled to find tractions while I'm braking on steep sections on dusty trails. (which I don't have the issue with Monarch) The small bump sensitivity is not even close to Monarch. I was slower and less confident on Fox than Monarch.

    Monarch on Pedal mode has less LSC than Fox. It tracks the terrains nicely. I only wish more travels when I hit big jumps with flat landing and going down chunky rock sections with speed. I can still pump the bike very well not as efficient as Fox though.

    Monarch on Open mode is very useful when things get very chunky and fast. It's very supple. You only give up a bit of efficiency while pumping.

    The conclusion is that I recommend getting your Monarch dialed at Avalanche. This comparison made me realize how important to tune my suspension to my weight, bike and riding style especially for in-line shocks. You might not need a piggy bag shock but make your suspension to fit your needs.

    To owners of the following (v1) with Avalanche shock and the following MB

    I'd love to hear your thoughts on the comparison.
    I'm 141lbs (64kg) w/o gear running 195psi on Monarch and 190psi for Fox both at 30% sag. RWC needle bearings are installed for both top and bottom for both shocks.





  34. #3134
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    Didn't see the need for a new thread and since this is the largest thread with a Following, pun intended; I figured I'd ask here.

    There's several Following V1 frames on ebay with out of spec rear triangles, most are between 141.5mm and 143.5mm and no warranty. What do you think would be a fair price for one?

    They're listed at $2300 and change, that's not happening ofcourse since Competitive cyclist has brand new, non faulty ones for $2000 and change.

  35. #3135
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    I'd consider grabbing one if it's under 1500.

  36. #3136
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    It isn't, they refused to tell me a price and refused my best offers without counteroffers.

    Rather just get a nib one at that rate.

  37. #3137
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    Been building a following an on budget and I've now got the funds for a dropper. Can anyone confirm if a rockshox reverb 150mm dropper can be slammed to the collar (max insert) into a Medium following MB please.

    Or infact if any 150mm droppers posts can be slammed, ONE UP etc...?

    thanks in advance
    Last edited by konaben; 07-30-2018 at 01:15 AM.

  38. #3138
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    New crank bros highline can be.

  39. #3139
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    KS Lev Integra will also fit all the way down.

  40. #3140
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    Quote Originally Posted by konaben View Post
    Been building a following an on budget and I've now got the funds for a dropper. Can anyone confirm if a rockshox reverb 150mm dropper can be slammed to the collar (max insert) into a Medium following MB please.

    Or intact if any 150mm droppers posts can be slammed, ONE UP etc...?

    thanks in advance
    150mm Reverb and 170mm OneUp will not fit slammed in a large FMB frame. I have the OneUp though and LOVE it. I also needed to raise it a bit hgiher compared to the 150mm Reverb, so it wasn't even an issue and it has shims so you can make it fit exactly like you need.

  41. #3141
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    KS Lev Integra will also fit all the way down.
    Can you confirm that this is with the 150mm Dropper?
    Total max insert length is 240mm inc so it looks as though it could be perfect.

  42. #3142
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    Quote Originally Posted by konaben View Post
    Can you confirm that this is with the 150mm Dropper?
    Total max insert length is 240mm inc so it looks as though it could be perfect.
    Yes, Indirectly. I have a small Following with a 15 seat tube length and the 125mm KS Lev Integra fits all the way down to the collar on my small frame. So Iím positive (say 99.9% sure) the 150mm Lev Integra will slide all the way down to the collar in the 17Ē seat tube of the medium Following.


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  43. #3143
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    Yes, Indirectly. I have a small Following with a 15 seat tube length and the 125mm KS Lev Integra fits all the way down to the collar on my small frame. So Iím positive (say 99.9% sure) the 150mm Lev Integra will slide all the way down to the collar in the 17Ē seat tube of the medium Following.


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    those seat tube lengths are from the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. they do not account for the bend that interrupts the seat tube. i would tread with caution that 150mm will fit. a quick email to Evil will probably get you the insertable depth, that way you don't make a mistake.

  44. #3144
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdc_worm View Post
    those seat tube lengths are from the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. they do not account for the bend that interrupts the seat tube. i would tread with caution that 150mm will fit. a quick email to Evil will probably get you the insertable depth, that way you don't make a mistake.
    To be exact, seat tube length is measured from the center of the BB to the top of the seat tube. The Lev Integra 125mm has a 190mm insertion depth. It bottoms out in a small frame (yes I can confirm this) and a Lev 150 would probably be close to bottoming out in a small (15Ē ST) frame. So a the Lev 150mm at 215mm insertion depth will definitely bottom out in a medium (17Ē ST) frame. Feel free to check with Evil if youíre concerned but I think itís pretty clear itíll fit just fine.


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  45. #3145
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    To be exact, seat tube length is measured from the center of the BB to the top of the seat tube. The Lev Integra 125mm has a 190mm insertion depth. It bottoms out in a small frame (yes I can confirm this) and a Lev 150 would probably be close to bottoming out in a small (15Ē ST) frame. So a the Lev 150mm at 215mm insertion depth will definitely bottom out in a medium (17Ē ST) frame. Feel free to check with Evil if youíre concerned but I think itís pretty clear itíll fit just fine.


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    It may be less clear than you think. I have a L and an XL Following MB in my garage. Both are unbuilt frames. According to Evils website, the seat tubes are are 470 and 508mm in length, respectively. I just inserted a 200mm 9point8 fall line dropper into both until it bottomed out. It will only go 20mm deeper in the XL than the L, even though the XL has 38mm more of effective seat tube length. In theory, the XL should accept 38mm more of dropper. In practice it can only accept 20mm more of dropper. I suspect the location of the bend in the seat tube is the primary culprit. Could be the internal cable routing. Might be the carbon layup is thicker to account for the additional leverage created by a longer seat tube and post....

  46. #3146
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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    Quote Originally Posted by tdc_worm View Post
    It may be less clear than you think. I have a L and an XL Following MB in my garage. Both are unbuilt frames. According to Evils website, the seat tubes are are 470 and 508mm in length, respectively. I just inserted a 200mm 9point8 fall line dropper into both until it bottomed out. It will only go 20mm deeper in the XL than the L, even though the XL has 38mm more of effective seat tube length. In theory, the XL should accept 38mm more of dropper. In practice it can only accept 20mm more of dropper. I suspect the location of the bend in the seat tube is the primary culprit. Could be the internal cable routing. Might be the carbon layup is thicker to account for the additional leverage created by a longer seat tube and post....
    The Levís are pretty compact droppers in length. Like I stated the 125 bottoms easily in my small and I know a few with 150ís in their small frames not slammed of course. I personally think a 150 In a small frame is a little excessive in dropper travel. Iíd have to pull my dropper to see what the full insertion depth is. I say the 150 Lev will bottom on the collar in a medium.

    Good points made here in our debate. Probably the better question is why does it need to bottom out? The rear tire will hit the seat fully dropped with the collar on the seat tube.
    Last edited by manitou2200; 07-30-2018 at 08:56 PM.
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    tdc_worm, Curious are you building both L and XL for yourself or trying to decide on the size?
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    The L is for sale. Its orange. Was going to try to down size, but the XL is the right size for me.

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    Bumping this thread back from the dead but I need some advice. I've basically destroyed the lower shock bolt on my v1 following. It's a long story involving a stripped head and many many failed ideas and attempts to get it free.

    I'm 95% convinced I'm going to have to drill out the threaded portion of the bolt. I know you can't thread carbon - Evil must have put some kind of metal insert into the mount to support the threads? What are my chances that I could successfully mount a helicoil if I have to drill the threads?

    On a different note, does anyone have a diagram or chart showing hardware sizes and torque specs? If I can actually fix this issue I'd like to avoid it again in the future.

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    From memory there is a small metal insert in there.

    Can you not make a notch or small hole in the threaded side of the bolt and jam something in there to reverse it out?

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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Bumping this thread back from the dead but I need some advice. I've basically destroyed the lower shock bolt on my v1 following. It's a long story involving a stripped head and many many failed ideas and attempts to get it free.

    I'm 95% convinced I'm going to have to drill out the threaded portion of the bolt. I know you can't thread carbon - Evil must have put some kind of metal insert into the mount to support the threads? What are my chances that I could successfully mount a helicoil if I have to drill the threads?

    On a different note, does anyone have a diagram or chart showing hardware sizes and torque specs? If I can actually fix this issue I'd like to avoid it again in the future.
    Quote Originally Posted by momanmatt View Post
    From memory there is a small metal insert in there.

    Can you not make a notch or small hole in the threaded side of the bolt and jam something in there to reverse it out?

    The lower shock bolt goes through that part of the frame. So you could dimple it in its center with a sharp punch and then carefully drill into the end of the bolt, starting fairly small in drill diameter and progressively increasing the size of the hole and hopefully loosening it.

    There is aluminum embedded in the frame thatís threaded for this shock bolt. So take your time drilling it out and I donít think youíd have to drill any deeper than 3/8Ē into the end of the bolt. Once you have the hole drilled into the end of the bolt, it may loosen up. If it doesnít loosen you could try to cool it with some dry ice which will slightly shrink the steel bolt and hopefully allow you to remove it.

    The best way to prevent seizure of this bolt is to grease it and torque it to spec which I donít know the value off the top of my head. Google will find it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Bumping this thread back from the dead but I need some advice. I've basically destroyed the lower shock bolt on my v1 following. It's a long story involving a stripped head and many many failed ideas and attempts to get it free.

    I'm 95% convinced I'm going to have to drill out the threaded portion of the bolt. I know you can't thread carbon - Evil must have put some kind of metal insert into the mount to support the threads? What are my chances that I could successfully mount a helicoil if I have to drill the threads?

    On a different note, does anyone have a diagram or chart showing hardware sizes and torque specs? If I can actually fix this issue I'd like to avoid it again in the future.
    I once rescued an Undead frame with a similar problem, but the Undead had a very obvious metal insert that you could clearly see. All you can see from the thread side of the bolt on the Following frame looks like carbon fiber right up to the bolt. Maybe there's some metal hiding under the paint.

    Anyway, the bolt had really ripped up the threads inside the insert so I drilled it out and had room for a nyloc nut on the outside of shock mount. There appears to be room for a nut on the outside of the Following frame as well, but the bolt has special beveled head... Just something to keep in mind for worst case scenario maybe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -lower_shockbolt_strip.jpg  

    -lower_shockbolt_fem_thrd-strip.jpg  

    -lower_shockbolt_replace.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Bumping this thread back from the dead but I need some advice. I've basically destroyed the lower shock bolt on my v1 following. It's a long story involving a stripped head and many many failed ideas and attempts to get it free.

    I'm 95% convinced I'm going to have to drill out the threaded portion of the bolt. I know you can't thread carbon - Evil must have put some kind of metal insert into the mount to support the threads? What are my chances that I could successfully mount a helicoil if I have to drill the threads?

    On a different note, does anyone have a diagram or chart showing hardware sizes and torque specs? If I can actually fix this issue I'd like to avoid it again in the future.
    Went thru this with my Wrecker. The lower shock bolt threads into a collet on the opposite side. I didn't have much luck extracting with my EasyOuts, so I drilled the head of the bolt with a left hand drill bit. As soon as the bolt head is drilled out, the tension is released and the bolt shaft will back out of the collet easily.

    PSA: If you are a sweater, the DELTA system is right in the line of fire for sweat dripping off of you. Routine cleaning of all the pivot points will save you a ton of pain in when bearing/axle/pin maint are actually necessary. Its also probably reasonable to keep a spare lower bolt and collet in your tool kit....that lower bolt is made from warm butter.

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    Hey guys, thanks for the replies. I'm pretty sure I somehow mixed up the torque specs the last time I serviced the shock and the bolt got WAY over torqued. To be fair, I probably could have been more patient in the first attempts to remove the bolt but I didn't expect it to be nearly as difficult. And now I've tried everything - drilling notches for screwdrivers, two different types of extractors, JB welding things into the bolt to hopefully get more purchase. Next up is cutting through the damper body/ifp body on the shock to try to get at the middle of the bolt. That $50 dollar fix is much better than risking the frame drilling out the threads.

    Could anyone point me in the direction of a hardware diagram where I could find the size, lengths, and threading of hardware?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    the bolt got WAY over torqued.
    I actually don't think this is the case. I believe it gets contaminated. Mine was nowhere near over torqued. Have you drilled the bolt head all of the way off so that only the bolt shank remains in the mount?

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    Hi guys. Ive been running my following mb at 130mm. I want to do some local xc races for fun (nothing too serious) but also need a bike that can be my every day trail bike. I was going to sell the Following and get a SB100 but im now thinking of putting a Fox 34 step cast on it with 120m travel and 44 offset just to quicken the steering up. I demoed the sb100 and i loved the way it turned into corners with the 120 / 44 fork. Was aweosome on tight uphill switch backs as well. Required a lot less weighting of the front wheel. Anyone been running a 120mm for on their Following. How do you find it? What head angle does it end up with on a 120?

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    Thanks again for all the help guys. Sorry to keep asking questions - I'm pretty nervous about drilling into my frame.

    So, just to be clear, the lower shock mount enters the non drive side into the expander collet and then the threaded end of the bolt shank screws into the non-drive side of the frame. So drilling the head of the bolt out takes the tension off the collet and the shank. If I do that, how can I grip the bolt to unthread it? I can't really imagine there is enough space where the bolt head was/is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Thanks again for all the help guys. Sorry to keep asking questions - I'm pretty nervous about drilling into my frame.

    So, just to be clear, the lower shock mount enters the non drive side into the expander collet and then the threaded end of the bolt shank screws into the non-drive side of the frame. So drilling the head of the bolt out takes the tension off the collet and the shank. If I do that, how can I grip the bolt to unthread it? I can't really imagine there is enough space where the bolt head was/is.
    You're close. Get a left handed drill bit set. A set from HF will work just fine. They are low quality but you are drilling into a soft bolt. Choose a bit roughly the size of shank on the bolt. The bit will self center in the hex head. Slowly drill.

    As the metal that gets thin that connects the head to the shank and as heat builds it will eventually walk its self out.

    The collet is on the drive side. It's a self expanding "nut" that anchors as the bolt is threaded in to it.

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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    Quote Originally Posted by tdc_worm View Post
    You're close. Get a left handed drill bit set. A set from HF will work just fine. They are low quality but you are drilling into a soft bolt. Choose a bit roughly the size of shank on the bolt. The bit will self center in the hex head. Slowly drill.

    As the metal that gets thin that connects the head to the shank and as heat builds it will eventually walk its self out.

    The collet is on the drive side. It's a self expanding "nut" that anchors as the bolt is threaded in to it.
    Youíve got this backwards. The collet is on the non drive side and is used to tighten up the bolt hole clearance on the bolt passing through the non drive side of the frame. The collet is clearanceíd for the bolt and is counter sunk to expand when the bolt head seats into it.

    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Thanks again for all the help guys. Sorry to keep asking questions - I'm pretty nervous about drilling into my frame.

    So, just to be clear, the lower shock mount enters the non drive side into the expander collet and then the threaded end of the bolt shank screws into the non-drive side of the frame. So drilling the head of the bolt out takes the tension off the collet and the shank. If I do that, how can I grip the bolt to unthread it? I can't really imagine there is enough space where the bolt head was/is.
    jcolloton, Youíll want to pull the cranks off and drill it out from the drive side in the method I described. Center punch the end of the bolt and start with a small drill and drill slowly making sure to not wander off the bolt end using right hand drill bits.


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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    Youíve got this backwards. The collet is on the non drive side and is used to tighten up the bolt hole clearance on the bolt passing through the non drive side of the frame. The collet is clearanceíd for the bolt and is counter sunk to expand when the bolt head seats into it.
    good catch. i was functioning off of a vague memory and a couple of IPAs. just pulled my shock on my Wrecker. non-drive side has collet. drive side has female threads.

    with that in mind, the collet will serve as a "safety net" when drilling the bolt head.

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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Hi guys. Ive been running my following mb at 130mm. I want to do some local xc races for fun (nothing too serious) but also need a bike that can be my every day trail bike. I was going to sell the Following and get a SB100 but im now thinking of putting a Fox 34 step cast on it with 120m travel and 44 offset just to quicken the steering up. I demoed the sb100 and i loved the way it turned into corners with the 120 / 44 fork. Was aweosome on tight uphill switch backs as well. Required a lot less weighting of the front wheel. Anyone been running a 120mm for on their Following. How do you find it? What head angle does it end up with on a 120?
    Oli, Iíve been running a 120/ 46 OS RS-1 fork on my Following. Iíve had it for 2+ years now and swap it with a 140 MRP Stage and swap tires and wheels depending on where Iím riding. I also am using a Works Components -1 degree angle set headset. With the 120 fork in the higher geo setting sets the head angle at...wait for it...66.6 degrees which is very EVIL. The lower stack height, steeper 75 deg seat angle and a 97mm mech trail handles very well. Plus it still charges very hard on the steep descents. Iíd highly recommend the 120/ 44 fork and the Works -1 headset!


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    Evil Bikes: The Following Ė User Review

    Quote Originally Posted by tdc_worm View Post
    good catch. i was functioning off of a vague memory and a couple of IPAs. just pulled my shock on my Wrecker. non-drive side has collet. drive side has female threads.

    with that in mind, the collet will serve as a "safety net" when drilling the bolt head.
    You have a point on the collet providing a saftey net. It might loosen the bolt enough to back it out after drilling out the head. But if it doesnít loosen it thereís not much of a way to grab the bolt. If he can drill out the head then he might be able to drill a second smaller hole in the head end and get an easy out in there to back it out once the tension is off of the bolt.

    I guess at that point you could use my method of drilling out the threaded end and maybe even use a tap to cut the old bolt out of the female threads in the drive side of the frame if itís stubborn and wonít back out.

    One of the issues on these Evil frames is that water and dirt collect in this lower shock bolt area on the frame. It just sits there and can contaminate that connection. I try to clean this area regularly and flip the bike over to drain the water. Itís also a good idea to pull that bolt every so often and grease the head and threaded end and re-torque it to 85 in.lbs.


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    It looks like Evil has addressed this cavity around the lower shock bolt with drainage ports on the new Offering.


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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Thanks again for all the help guys. Sorry to keep asking questions - I'm pretty nervous about drilling into my frame.

    So, just to be clear, the lower shock mount enters the non drive side into the expander collet and then the threaded end of the bolt shank screws into the non-drive side of the frame. So drilling the head of the bolt out takes the tension off the collet and the shank. If I do that, how can I grip the bolt to unthread it? I can't really imagine there is enough space where the bolt head was/is.
    I've previously threaded one of the bolts that holds the top of my shock on an MB frame (as yes they do seem to be made of cheese).

    However, once past the very thin holt head the actual bulk of the bolt was tough aluminium. The reverse drill bit I tried failed to penetrate the main bolt and I was left to carefully drill out the head with regular, sharp drill bits, increasing in size of the bit as I went.

    My recommendation would be to strip off the cranks, drop the wheels and get the frame laid flat without rocking. Drop the torque on your drill if going in hand held and take your time. It can help if you have a friend watch from different sides, in case you're worried about drifting.

    Once the bolt head breaks up, all the tension in the remaining bolt body will disperse and you can wind if out by hand or with small pointed grips.

    I know it's a bit scary but the frames are very tough.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    Thanks again for all the help guys. Sorry to keep asking questions - I'm pretty nervous about drilling into my frame.

    So, just to be clear, the lower shock mount enters the non drive side into the expander collet and then the threaded end of the bolt shank screws into the non-drive side of the frame. So drilling the head of the bolt out takes the tension off the collet and the shank. If I do that, how can I grip the bolt to unthread it? I can't really imagine there is enough space where the bolt head was/is.
    So did you extract that lower shock bolt, destroy the frame or just have nervous breakdown?

    Youíve left us all in suspense here...But seriously, did you get er outa there?


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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    so did you extract that lower shock bolt, destroy the frame or just have nervous breakdown?

    Youíve left us all in suspense here...but seriously, did you get er outa there?


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    Anyone know what a large following mb frame weighs with shock, axle and headset?

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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Anyone know what a large following mb frame weighs with shock, axle and headset?
    Fanatik's bikebuilder seems pretty accurate when I have compared it to other sources. They give 7.61lbs for a large orange Following MB. That's without the headset.
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    Do they give the weight of the drunken olive which should be a bit lighter. I cant access their site from the uk

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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Do they give the weight of the drunken olive which should be a bit lighter. I cant access their site from the uk
    Yes. Large Olive is 7.21lbs. Both weights with a RS Super Deluxe shock.
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    So did you extract that lower shock bolt, destroy the frame or just have nervous breakdown?

    Youíve left us all in suspense here...But seriously, did you get er outa there?


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    So - I ended up throwing in the towel as my battery powered hand held drill wasn't cutting the mustard. Took it to a machine shop in town. $90 and four days later, somehow that miracle worker was able to get the bolt out without destroying the threads. I was so blown away he was able to do it that I actually forgot to ask how he pulled it off!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcolloton View Post
    So - I ended up throwing in the towel as my battery powered hand held drill wasn't cutting the mustard. Took it to a machine shop in town. $90 and four days later, somehow that miracle worker was able to get the bolt out without destroying the threads. I was so blown away he was able to do it that I actually forgot to ask how he pulled it off!
    Glad to hear they got it out.


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    Quote Originally Posted by rossp View Post
    bfh!!!
    RCI!


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    I have a quick question. I am in the market to pick up a new bike next year, was going to wait to see if there was a new Jeffsy and heard Diamondback has a 29" version of the release coming which gathered my interest, but I noticed that Jenson USA has a V1 version of the Following that seems pretty well specced with GX Eagle, E*13 wheels, 140mm Pike RCT3 Boost, Monarch RC3, SLX brakes for $3200. I know this is the older frame but am I wrong thinking the build would be hard to beat at that price point?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhatfie View Post
    I have a quick question. I am in the market to pick up a new bike next year, was going to wait to see if there was a new Jeffsy and heard Diamondback has a 29" version of the release coming which gathered my interest, but I noticed that Jenson USA has a V1 version of the Following that seems pretty well specced with GX Eagle, E*13 wheels, 140mm Pike RCT3 Boost, Monarch RC3, SLX brakes for $3200. I know this is the older frame but am I wrong thinking the build would be hard to beat at that price point?
    That's a really nice build for the price. I see it's only available in small, medium and xl. I would guess the large is out of stock due to it being the most common size for people who would normally ride a medium. If any of those sizes fit you that would be a great bike. I normally ride a medium but sized up to large on my V1 for more TT length. I'm at 5'10" and the bike fits perfect a medium would probably have been a bit cramped in the cockpit for me. The only things that changed from V1 to MB is boost spacing, threaded BB and the ability to run a piggyback shock, also slightly longer reach. You can't beat how much fun this bike is. It's very stable and planted in rough sections at speed. I love mine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    That's a really nice build for the price. I see it's only available in small, medium and xl. I would guess the large is out of stock due to it being the most common size for people who would normally ride a medium. If any of those sizes fit you that would be a great bike. I normally ride a medium but sized up to large on my V1 for more TT length. I'm at 5'10" and the bike fits perfect a medium would probably have been a bit cramped in the cockpit for me. The only things that changed from V1 to MB is boost spacing, threaded BB and the ability to run a piggyback shock, also slightly longer reach. You can't beat how much fun this bike is. It's very stable and planted in rough sections at speed. I love mine.
    Ah yeah size is my other question. They did have a L when I first looked, so maybe my question is moot now. I am 5'9.5" my current bike is a Medium Breezer Repack with a reach of 428mm and I do not think I want to go with less reach than that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhatfie View Post
    Ah yeah size is my other question. They did have a L when I first looked, so maybe my question is moot now. I am 5'9.5" my current bike is a Medium Breezer Repack with a reach of 428mm and I do not think I want to go with less reach than that.
    I'm 5' 9.5" too. I have a medium V1. Love how it handles. Personal preference, of course, but it doesn't feel the least bit cramped to me.

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    I'm 5'-7" and ride a small v1 I also love how it handles and the playfulness of the bike. I did add a -1 degree Works Angleset headset to my bike in the last year. This puts the geometry in the higher setting at 66.6 deg HA, 74.8 degree SA with my 120mm fork and 65.5 degree HA and 74.3 degree SA with my 140mm fork. Running it in the high setting with the angleset preserves the steeper seat tube angle, keeps the stack height a little lower and adds about a half inch to the wheelbase, plus adding some stability at speed.
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    HA of 666? that is....EVIL!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    I'm 5' 9.5" too. I have a medium V1. Love how it handles. Personal preference, of course, but it doesn't feel the least bit cramped to me.
    Yeah... Was gonna mention 9mm of reach difference might not be very noticeable.
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    Anyone want to swap their small frame for my medium?

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    Sorry only just seen this thread but for future ref, I wouldnít use a a power drill. I snapped the head off one my linkage bolts on my first following. Using a tiny 2mm metal bit in an old fashioned manual hand drill did the job in 10 min. This gives you way more control than a power drill. Good news you got it out though

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    Anyone out there have or know about someone who has a medium orange Following MB frameset in great shape for sale? Very interested! I prefer it over the Offering. I have a V1 Following currently. Thanks!

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    OK... so I decided to ditch the Monarch shock and go with a Mcleod. The Mcleod comes as a 190x50 so you need to install a reducer. I contacted Manitou to get one. Sent a self addressed envelope as asked by Manitou, well that envelope got lost in the mail on its way back to me. Contacted Nick at Manitou and he sent out another one. Here's where it gets interesting. In my impatience to get the shock installed I figured let me just see if the shock would fit and function without interference anywhere on the frame. Well it does, but it increases BB height by 5/8" raising it to 13.9" and decreases HA by 2* giving 67.5*. So I decided to flip the chip to the low setting and see where it goes well all works fine and no interference. Giving me aBB height of 13.5" and HA of 66.5*. So I know some people have had interference problems on their Followings, mine is a size large and this shock works with no issues and increases travel to somewhere around 140.
    2016 Evil Following V1
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  86. #3186
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    How's this setup working out for you? Ride/handling : good or bad???

  87. #3187
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibis315 View Post
    How's this setup working out for you? Ride/handling : good or bad???
    So the extra 6mm of travel pushes the rear wheel travel to 150mm. There is no frame contact at full compression but the wheel will contact the seat when the seat is dropped all the way down. First thing that was noticeable was the brake jacking when hitting front brake you can feel the seat come up underneath you, not so noticeable on the trail though when braking with both brakes. One other thing I did notice was understeer when turning in certain situations and it does cause the suspension to wallow at low speeds. I'm going to bring the bike back down to 120mm when I get the spacer for the shock. I think to really make this work if I wanted, I would need to install an angle set to get the BB a bit lower and slack the head angle and also probably bring the fork to 150mm. I liked the bike the way it was at 120mm. With the fork at 140 and the rear at 120 the bike has a head angle of 65.5 with a BB of just around 13" and feels livelier the 150 was a bit much for where and what I ride.
    2016 Evil Following V1
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  88. #3188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    So the extra 6mm of travel pushes the rear wheel travel to 150mm. There is no frame contact at full compression but the wheel will contact the seat when the seat is dropped all the way down. First thing that was noticeable was the brake jacking when hitting front brake you can feel the seat come up underneath you, not so noticeable on the trail though when braking with both brakes. One other thing I did notice was understeer when turning in certain situations and it does cause the suspension to wallow at low speeds. I'm going to bring the bike back down to 120mm when I get the spacer for the shock. I think to really make this work if I wanted, I would need to install an angle set to get the BB a bit lower and slack the head angle and also probably bring the fork to 150mm. I liked the bike the way it was at 120mm. With the fork at 140 and the rear at 120 the bike has a head angle of 65.5 with a BB of just around 13" and feels livelier the 150 was a bit much for where and what I ride.
    Let us know how Mcleod compares to Monarch.

  89. #3189
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    Got my Following in today. Fork should be in tomorrow.

    -img_1159.jpg

  90. #3190
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    I'm building up a 120/120 MB and was wondering if anyone has tried the new Float DPS shock in this configuration vs the standard Super Deluxe RCT3. I'm aiming for a light and snappy bike to complement my 150/140 Offering, which I run in x-low with a pretty burly kit.

    If anyone is interested, I may have a brand new RCT3 for sale shortly.

  91. #3191
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    I've never got on that well with the RCT3 and I'm thinking of a Topaz to replace it. Would be very interested in your thoughts if you change to the Fox.

  92. #3192
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    Just pulled the trigger on it. We'll see how it goes.

  93. #3193
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    Quote Originally Posted by konaben View Post
    I've never got on that well with the RCT3 and I'm thinking of a Topaz to replace it. Would be very interested in your thoughts if you change to the Fox.
    The Topaz will probably be a much better option than the Monarch.
    2016 Evil Following V1
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  94. #3194
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibis315 View Post
    Let us know how Mcleod compares to Monarch.
    Only have one ride on the Mcleod at 120. Shock is way better than the Monarch for me. The Monarch required too high of pressure for my weight to get the right sag, I think that's why it never felt good just kind of dead feeling. The Mcleod with the spacer and volume reducer feels way better. Running 185psi to get 25-30% sag. Rebound at about 3/4. Shock feels much more active. The rear tire stays in contact with the ground much better now especially on loose over hard chatter and the rear wheel moves into it's travel much easier especially on square ledges. It's a much smoother ride and less jittery. So far I like the way this shock feels much better than the Monarch. I think the Monarch would probably be fine for lighter riders but in my case not so much. The tune on the Monarch just wasn't right for me I even tried the standard air can to see if that would help but it was actually worse that way, still needing too much air to get proper sag and giving a harsh ride. This is the second bike that I have put a Mcleod on and both times it's been a winner. So if you're considering one of these shocks I'd say go for it.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  95. #3195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    Only have one ride on the Mcleod at 120. Shock is way better than the Monarch for me. The Monarch required too high of pressure for my weight to get the right sag, I think that's why it never felt good just kind of dead feeling. The Mcleod with the spacer and volume reducer feels way better. Running 185psi to get 25-30% sag. Rebound at about 3/4. Shock feels much more active. The rear tire stays in contact with the ground much better now especially on loose over hard chatter and the rear wheel moves into it's travel much easier especially on square ledges. It's a much smoother ride and less jittery. So far I like the way this shock feels much better than the Monarch. I think the Monarch would probably be fine for lighter riders but in my case not so much. The tune on the Monarch just wasn't right for me I even tried the standard air can to see if that would help but it was actually worse that way, still needing too much air to get proper sag and giving a harsh ride. This is the second bike that I have put a Mcleod on and both times it's been a winner. So if you're considering one of these shocks I'd say go for it.
    That sounds like a winner.

    How much pressure were you running on the Monarch for your weight? I'm 180lbs running 235-240psi to achieve 25-30% sag. I did get mine tuned by Avalanche and that made it feel much better off the top, but I did take out all the spacers, pos and neg, compared to what Avalanche recommended.

  96. #3196
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibis315 View Post
    That sounds like a winner.

    How much pressure were you running on the Monarch for your weight? I'm 180lbs running 235-240psi to achieve 25-30% sag. I did get mine tuned by Avalanche and that made it feel much better off the top, but I did take out all the spacers, pos and neg, compared to what Avalanche recommended.
    330psi for 235# weight.
    2016 Evil Following V1
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  97. #3197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    330psi for 235# weight.
    What makes the Mcleod allow you to run such a low pressure compared to the Monarch? I don't know much about the shock or its design. Air volume (pos/neg), damper???

  98. #3198
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibis315 View Post
    What makes the Mcleod allow you to run such a low pressure compared to the Monarch? I don't know much about the shock or its design. Air volume (pos/neg), damper???
    I don't really know or ever thought about it. If I had to guess I would suspect the IFP charge may be higher than the Monarch. It could also just be the way the shim stack functions. When I swapped the RP23 on my RIP9 it was the same thing, I was able to run lower pressure while getting more support.
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