race gearing for enduro?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    race gearing for enduro?

    Trying to figure out what is faster for a short punchy climb found in a lot of enduro segments... My 36t with a mid gear in the back, or dropping to my 24 and spinning a little more on the climb..

    I cant decide which is best for me:
    I know in theory the 36t is the most effecient, but at some point you lose momentum, where as with a 24t in a climb, you would keep the same level of momentum and energy... Is it just a matter of finding what feels best for me, or is there a go-to gearing that will get you up a short section quicker based on mechanical advantagE?

  2. #2
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    Isn't Enduro just a meandering DH race?

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    Here comes Targnik to stink up another thread!

    OP- I don't think anyone can tell you what's most efficient as there are too many factors. Fresh legs/low HR?? Power up in bigger gear.

    You might want to consider how chain ring size/chain forces possibly influence the pedaling dynamics of your suspension design (assuming full suspension).

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    Quote Originally Posted by EatsDirt View Post
    Here comes Targnik to stink up another thread!

    OP- I don't think anyone can tell you what's most efficient as there are too many factors. Fresh legs/low HR?? Power up in bigger gear.

    You might want to consider how chain ring size/chain forces possibly influence the pedaling dynamics of your suspension design (assuming full suspension).
    it's nice to have fanbois ^^

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  5. #5
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    What wheel size are you on? What's your rear cassette? I haven't done an enduro, but my xc training plan focuses on short punchy climbs, I am one of the better racers in my area at those. Do you ever spin-out your 36? I removed my big ring from my triple crankset on my 29er hardtail race bike, and put on a small bash guard for more clearance on one local venue with a lot of logs, leaving me with a 32 and 24 front, 11-32 rear. I thought I might want to re-install the big ring after that race, but I have not needed it. I only spin-out the 32 on gravel road decents, and then it's a good time to take a short rest. I find I use the 32 about 95% of the time, and for the steepest climbs I drop into the 24. It acts like a 1x with a bailout, I'm very happy with it setup that way. - you'd be going pretty fast to spin out a 32x11 on a 29er.

  6. #6
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    My instinct is that if you've got the traction, staying in your 36, getting out of the saddle, and hammering is the way to go.

    For disclosure, I don't race enduros either.

    Seems to me that efficiency isn't that important if you're doing a timed section that only lasts several minutes. You can recover during the transfer stage. Do whatever's fastest.

    If you can pre ride, try it both ways.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    What wheel size are you on? What's your rear cassette? I haven't done an enduro, but my xc training plan focuses on short punchy climbs, I am one of the better racers in my area at those. Do you ever spin-out your 36? I removed my big ring from my triple crankset on my 29er hardtail race bike, and put on a small bash guard for more clearance on one local venue with a lot of logs, leaving me with a 32 and 24 front, 11-32 rear. I thought I might want to re-install the big ring after that race, but I have not needed it. I only spin-out the 32 on gravel road decents, and then it's a good time to take a short rest. I find I use the 32 about 95% of the time, and for the steepest climbs I drop into the 24. It acts like a 1x with a bailout, I'm very happy with it setup that way. - you'd be going pretty fast to spin out a 32x11 on a 29er.

    I'm on 26" wheels, 11-34 cassette, I don't spin out my 36. Looking into a similar setup as you are describing, I like the simplicity of a 1x, but the bailout is key because I do a lot of xc rides/climbs and only race maybe 8 times a year. I would maybe want to bump to a 34 front to avoid spin out on the 26" wheels, but thanks for your input and advice!

  8. #8
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    If you have a 36t chain ring now, a 34t ring would make you more likely to spin out. Maybe we're talking about different things?
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    I have a 36 middle on my old ti hardtail, it's so old it has a 12-28 rear. I like the 36 on the 26er. I think the gears you have are good, my solution would be (is) to get strong at short climbs by doing regular short hard climb repeats. Those translate to overall climbing strength, better power, and quick recovery from hard efforts; great for racing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    If you have a 36t chain ring now, a 34t ring would make you more likely to spin out. Maybe we're talking about different things?
    I have a 36t now, but if I dropped my drivetrain to a 1x or even 2x I was saying I would want to bump up to a 34, rather than your set up at a 32.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    I have a 36 middle on my old ti hardtail, it's so old it has a 12-28 rear. I like the 36 on the 26er. I think the gears you have are good, my solution would be (is) to get strong at short climbs by doing regular short hard climb repeats. Those translate to overall climbing strength, better power, and quick recovery from hard efforts; great for racing.
    thanks, im just getting into interval stuff, mostly with running but I will incorporate some repeats

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by normarin View Post
    I have a 36t now, but if I dropped my drivetrain to a 1x or even 2x I was saying I would want to bump up to a 34, rather than your set up at a 32.
    My 2x setup has both a 36t ring and a 36t cog.

    34 is fewer than 36. Seems to be my day to be confused by what people mean with phrases like "bump up to."

    Anyway, it sounds like you have the gear range to try a few different approaches to short, punchy climbs without buying any more stuff.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  13. #13
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    I'm not sure that the two different definitions of spin out aren't being used here.

    One definition is to spin the rear tire because you have too much torque and not enough traction. This is more likely with a lower gear, especially if out of the saddle.

    The other definition is when you are in your highest gear going 120 rpm and you can't pedal any faster. That is the definition that AndrwSwitch is using.

  14. #14
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    Based how strong you are tbh.I'm personaly strength type rider so i will roll with higher gear on climb and stand up (if i don't ride between stages).Then again my friend ride lower gears but he sits and just spins with 120/140 rpm if he can afford to not losse traction.I just ride mainly on 28-32t based what i have on my front ring.I just feel like those gears are safe for me,i won't spin out and i won't be forced to shift gear in mid climb because i have too high gear.

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