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  1. #1
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    Waxing chain for Endurance MTB?

    Hey all, I've been looking into trying out chain wax instead of the traditional chain lube for MTB racing. Not necessarily because of the supposed watt savings (though it is a bonus) but more of it running cleaner and saving wear and tear on drivetrain parts. Also it's something new, and it's always fun to try new stuff, right? Anyway, I keep seeing stuff about how it rides and how often to re-wax but it is mostly pertaining to road usage. Does anyone out there have any experience running a waxed chain on a MTB for longer (7+ hour) races? I live and ride in Utah, so mostly dry, dusty conditions...Thanks

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    I used to wax my road and MTB chains. Itís simple and very effective but it is time consuming. I prefer a crockpot waxing over something like stinky, thick Chain-L(it works well but is the messiest stuff around). I am now using only Squirt lube, itís kind of the best of both worlds and I enjoy just slapping it on, wiping it off and riding. Letting it dry over night is helpful too.



    For your conditions, wax would do really well and last a VERY long time. I used to go aleast 500 miles between waxing in my road bike, in all conditions. On my MTB I could squeeze out 200+ miles depending on conditions.


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    The only wax I've found worth a damn is Squirt. I personally love it. And it will perform well in Utah.

    The key to wax is proper application, it needs time and warmth to harden inside the chain. I've found letting it cure overnight in a warm location really extends the coverage I get. Many who bash wax have simply slapped it on, wiped it off, and then think 'it sucks'. Like any product, when not used properly, you aren't going to like it... My only 'complaint' with wax is if I drive to a ride and go through a rain storm, it's hard to apply more before the ride since it needs curing time.

    Seven hours is right at the upper limit of what you can get out of it, but I don't think anything lasts longer. Most of us just accept the last few hours we will be riding with a louder drivetrain and will be contributing to premature wear. I have slapped lube on top of wax at mile 75 of a 100, it worked fine, and I was going to baby my bike afterward, so if there was any extra cleaning (I didn't notice any), I was fine with it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    The only wax I've found worth a damn is Squirt. I personally love it. And it will perform well in Utah.

    The key to wax is proper application, it needs time and warmth to harden inside the chain. I've found letting it cure overnight in a warm location really extends the coverage I get. Many who bash wax have simply slapped it on, wiped it off, and then think 'it sucks'. Like any product, when not used properly, you aren't going to like it... My only 'complaint' with wax is if I drive to a ride and go through a rain storm, it's hard to apply more before the ride since it needs curing time.

    Seven hours is right at the upper limit of what you can get out of it, but I don't think anything lasts longer. Most of us just accept the last few hours we will be riding with a louder drivetrain and will be contributing to premature wear. I have slapped lube on top of wax at mile 75 of a 100, it worked fine, and I was going to baby my bike afterward, so if there was any extra cleaning (I didn't notice any), I was fine with it.
    I'm curious if you are referencing wax based lube (squirt) or wax that you submerge a chain in (molten speed wax, etc.)?

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    I was referencing wax 'lube'. Are you thinking about hot paraffin? If so, I'm very curious but I can't imagine that's worth the hassle. If you do that, please do keep us posted.

    The few people who have had good luck talk about running multiple chains. Just make sure whatever master link you use is suitable--I can't say I follow that real closely, but it seems few are rated for repeat installation anymore. Then again, they are trying to sell you a new link...

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    I'm fully in the molten speed wax or bust camp. I run it on my GX eagle drivetrain in all conditions. I've done ORAMM, among other big rides with it, with no big issues. Just looked at Strava, and I did ~850 miles this year, and waxed the chain 3 times. Does not seem like the chain is close to the .5 chain wear mark either. Dry and dusty conditions is where waxed chains shine. As said above, prep is very key. You need to spend a lot of time making sure that you get the chain super clean, or the wax won't last for as long.

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    I've done wax since the '70's. Originally used melted paraffin, then switched to White Lightning when it came out. Even bought it by the gallon. Now I use Squirt. I just squirt it on after a ride, never wipe it off, just spin the chain around backwards for a minute to saturate it into the links. I still use hot melted paraffin on a new chain, or whenever I am doing a drive rebuild/cleaning of any sort. I have a box of other lubes I have tried but the bottles are all about full as nothing works as well as wax for me.

    The only time I can say it failed me was the year that "The Iceman" race turned out to be "The Mudman", but then every lube failed everybody that year.

    Road, Trail, Beach, or Snow, Squirt is the way I always go.

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    As far as wax goes, I've had good results with Squirt and GREAT results with Progold Extreme aerosol. It seems to be a wax/petroleum combination?

    As others have mentioned, one of the keys is a good setup time for these lubes. I always wax the night before a ride.

    As far as 100 mile races goes, nothing I've ever used makes it quite that far, but double-lubing the week before a race gets me to about 7 hours, then I quickly squirt on whatever is available and finish the race.
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    I was referencing wax 'lube'. Are you thinking about hot paraffin? If so, I'm very curious but I can't imagine that's worth the hassle. If you do that, please do keep us posted.

    The few people who have had good luck talk about running multiple chains. Just make sure whatever master link you use is suitable--I can't say I follow that real closely, but it seems few are rated for repeat installation anymore. Then again, they are trying to sell you a new link...

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    Yes, I was particularly interested in hot paraffin wax for a chain (specifically molten speed wax). I think I am going to give it a shot, at least for the beginning of next season.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    As far as wax goes, I've had good results with Squirt and GREAT results with Progold Extreme aerosol. It seems to be a wax/petroleum combination?

    As others have mentioned, one of the keys is a good setup time for these lubes. I always wax the night before a ride.

    As far as 100 mile races goes, nothing I've ever used makes it quite that far, but double-lubing the week before a race gets me to about 7 hours, then I quickly squirt on whatever is available and finish the race.
    Interesting, I have used progold extreme aerosol before, and when I first applied it I thought it was amazing because I felt like it was penetrating deep into the rollers on the chain. But I have found that, in my riding conditions at least, it is completely dry and worthless after 2 hours...Maybe I'll have to give it another shot?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLCpowderhound View Post
    I think I am going to give it a shot, at least for the beginning of next season.
    I'm interested in your results.
    I've also wondered if you could stick Squirt in the microwave or have it sit in hot water before applying it. Would that decrease the viscosity and improve the application?


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    Quote Originally Posted by cal_len1 View Post
    I'm fully in the molten speed wax or bust camp. I run it on my GX eagle drivetrain in all conditions. I've done ORAMM, among other big rides with it, with no big issues. Just looked at Strava, and I did ~850 miles this year, and waxed the chain 3 times. Does not seem like the chain is close to the .5 chain wear mark either. Dry and dusty conditions is where waxed chains shine. As said above, prep is very key. You need to spend a lot of time making sure that you get the chain super clean, or the wax won't last for as long.
    Nice! Thanks for the info. I have looked around and everywhere I see are people mainly talking about molten speed wax in terms of road use. I was really hoping that I could find someone with singletrack experience.

    I do have one question: When you re-wax the chain are you cleaning it again or simply just taking the chain off, soaking it in wax then putting it back on the bike?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLCpowderhound View Post
    Interesting, I have used progold extreme aerosol before, and when I first applied it I thought it was amazing because I felt like it was penetrating deep into the rollers on the chain. But I have found that, in my riding conditions at least, it is completely dry and worthless after 2 hours...Maybe I'll have to give it another shot?
    I find the same 2 or 3 hour limit in the dirt with the regular Progold aerosol, but have better luck with the Extreme, at a solid 6 hours (on Eagle drivetrain, if that matters).

    FWIW, I always double-lube after doing a "real" chain clean with one of those solvent bath and brush roller things. This helps fill up the voids in the chain with lube, and is one of the key attributes to the hot wax bath approach, which I'm not interested in pursuing.

    Previously, my all time best lube was Finish Line Wet, cut with about 10% brake solvent. It really penetrates well like that, and the solvent flashes off, given enough time, really locking the lube into the chain. But even if you wipe the dickens out of it the next morning, it's still attracts a lot more grime than waxy lubes. Since I've retired from 100s, I'm enjoying the tradeoff of MUCH cleaner drivetrain for a little less duration.
    Whining is not a strategy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLCpowderhound View Post
    I was really hoping that I could find someone with singletrack experience.

    I do have one question: When you re-wax the chain are you cleaning it again or simply just taking the chain off, soaking it in wax then putting it back on the bike?
    You donít need to clean the chain before re-waxing in a crockpot. The old wax (and the crap it has collected) will melt out and be replaced with clean wax. I just prop my chain up on a shelf I make out of aluminum foil so the heavier dirt sinks to the bottom.

    I wouldnít buy speed wax. I use 1 lb of parrafin with 1/4 lb of beeswax. Works like a charm and is super cheap.


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    I boil the chain in a pot I don't care too much about (it will stain/leave little bits of wax in it), and it melts the wax off. After that, just clean chain as normal (solvents/alcohol), and re-wax. You will find that the chain is so clean, it requires half the cleaning as new. I've never done this, but MSW does say that you can just do a rough clean then toss it in the wax. I prefer to follow the race chain process.

    This thread has a lot more info about it, Jonathan uses it on his mountain bikes too, and he's much faster than me.

    https://forum.trainerroad.com/t/chai...-tutorial/2633

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    Quote Originally Posted by jake2185 View Post
    I wouldnít buy speed wax. I use 1 lb of parrafin with 1/4 lb of beeswax. Works like a charm and is super cheap.
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    You will miss out on the friction benefits that MSW provides, but if you're ok with that, then it does work.

  17. #17
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    I did my mountainbike chain for about a year, paraffin wax and a mix of kerosene. I couldn't get it to last anywhere near as long as normal lubes.
    I kept the mixture in an old rice cooker, what I liked was how clean the drivetrain stayed, but I stopped doing it in the end because I might get 6 hours riding out of it, if that.

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    I only use Molten Speed Wax on all of my bikes in dusty AZ. Lasts along time, quiet and most importantly it is very clean. Bought a cheapo crock-pot just for the task, super easy..less time consuming for me than to oil every single pin and roller.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cal_len1 View Post
    You will miss out on the friction benefits that MSW provides, but if you're ok with that, then it does work.
    Well, I will agree with you that the friction benefit exists.
    https://moltenspeedwax.com/blogs/new...lube-test-2014

    However, the difference is minuscule....less than .3 of a watt. If you can notice that while pedaling, you are more accurate than an SRM powermeter.

    Also, you're talking $20 for MSW vs. $5 for paraffin and beeswax.

    Squirt lube was considered the best lube in this test due to ease of application vs. traditional crockpot waxing. If you apply it properly, it does a great job and you avoid the time spent removing the chain, waxing it, wiping it down when it's 150 degrees etc.

    Horses for courses.
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    Alternatively, you could use your preferred chain lube before the race (night before or whenever) but carry a small brush and give the chain a wipe down to rid it of all the accumulated dust.

    I have been using a Grunge Brush for many years on my dirt bike but also now use it on the MTB chain. The Grunge Brush has 3 small removable brushes. If a person is considering stopping to apply lube during a race, this quick clean is no different than applying lube. Hit the chain with a brush during back pedal, can run the jockey wheels through the bristles as well and at least the exterior is clean, preventing some dust from penetrating the rollers.

    Benefit, the brush weights far less than a bottle of lube (for the weight watchers out there).

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Rider View Post
    Alternatively, you could use your preferred chain lube before the race (night before or whenever) but carry a small brush and give the chain a wipe down to rid it of all the accumulated dust.

    I have been using a Grunge Brush for many years on my dirt bike but also now use it on the MTB chain. The Grunge Brush has 3 small removable brushes. If a person is considering stopping to apply lube during a race, this quick clean is no different than applying lube. Hit the chain with a brush during back pedal, can run the jockey wheels through the bristles as well and at least the exterior is clean, preventing some dust from penetrating the rollers.

    Benefit, the brush weights far less than a bottle of lube (for the weight watchers out there).
    Nice! Just looked those up and seem pretty sweet. I don't think I'll be carrying that with me on a ride/race, but I just bought one to use at home. I LOVE having a clean drivetrain...which is most of the reason why I am so interested in using wax on my chain as opposed to traditional lube.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WAvery View Post
    I only use Molten Speed Wax on all of my bikes in dusty AZ. Lasts along time, quiet and most importantly it is very clean. Bought a cheapo crock-pot just for the task, super easy..less time consuming for me than to oil every single pin and roller.
    Perfect! I wash my bike a lot and usually wipe down my drivetrain after almost every ride. If I can get away with re-waxing my chain every 10 days or so that would be awesome! I have spent a lot of money on lubes that end up gunking up my jockey wheels and leaving a thick black sludge. Hopefully wax will eliminate all of that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by k.b. View Post
    I've done wax since the '70's. Originally used melted paraffin, then switched to White Lightning when it came out. Even bought it by the gallon. Now I use Squirt. I just squirt it on after a ride, never wipe it off, just spin the chain around backwards for a minute to saturate it into the links. I still use hot melted paraffin on a new chain, or whenever I am doing a drive rebuild/cleaning of any sort. I have a box of other lubes I have tried but the bottles are all about full as nothing works as well as wax for me.

    The only time I can say it failed me was the year that "The Iceman" race turned out to be "The Mudman", but then every lube failed everybody that year.

    Road, Trail, Beach, or Snow, Squirt is the way I always go.
    I talk to a lot of people about chain lube and a lot of them really like squirt. I bought some last year and had the messiest, most disgusting drivetrain I have ever had after using it once. It was really hard to clean off too.

    After reading way too much information about how important the process is to really deep clean the chain before applying molten speed wax, I have a feeling that I most likely did not follow the proper procedure when applying squirt. I probably just wiped down my chain, put on some squirt and went on a ride on some dry (really fun) singletrack.

    I think I will give squirt another shot on a different bike, but I am still highly intrigued by using hot wax on my chain. Possibly a side-by-side, very non-scientific test this spring. Again, watt savings are always welcomed (though not the driving force for my decision), I think I just really want a long-lasting lube (wax??) that keeps my drivetrain clean. It seems that running with wax will certainly keep it much cleaner than a traditional lube, hopefully it will last long enough for the all day events; based on a few commenters on here it sounds like that shouldn't be an issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jake2185 View Post
    Well, I will agree with you that the friction benefit exists.
    https://moltenspeedwax.com/blogs/new...lube-test-2014

    However, the difference is minuscule....less than .3 of a watt. If you can notice that while pedaling, you are more accurate than an SRM powermeter.

    Also, you're talking $20 for MSW vs. $5 for paraffin and beeswax.

    Squirt lube was considered the best lube in this test due to ease of application vs. traditional crockpot waxing. If you apply it properly, it does a great job and you avoid the time spent removing the chain, waxing it, wiping it down when it's 150 degrees etc.

    Horses for courses.
    Interestingly enough, friction facts has found that MSW provides the lowest cost of ownership of any lube. https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

    MSW claims 16 chains per pound, but you can do many more than that if your chains are really clean. Squirt says that you should apply chain lube to an mtb every 4 hours. By looking at my riding, I get ~30 hours of riding per chain waxing. YMMV. Do what's easiest though, if you like squirt, use that, if you like MSW, use that. For me, not having to touch my chain for a month is great, then on rest days I can wax a couple chains. Besides, I want to buy as few eagle chains as possible.

    I could have sworn I saw a different friction test by a 3rd party that showed more benefit, if I dig that up I will show it. I could certainly mis-remember it though. Friction is also very dependent on how much power is being output, if you are a more powerful person, the more friction reduction makes sense.

  25. #25
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    I hate Sqirt lube - messy, sticky crap, and the stuff's so thick that I never felt it penetrated to where it really needed to be.

    I've been hot waxing with parafin for a few years now, keeping the family fleet up and running. Adding some parafin oil (lamp oil) to the melted parafin helps to soften it up and makes it less brittle - less flaking. I have multiple chains per bike for drivetrain longevity, and clean and hotwax the chains that are out of rotation, always have a new, freshly waxed one ready to put on. I now cringe when I see oily wet chains coated in layers of dust, like a wet rope drug through the sand.

    A freshly waxed chain is soooo buttery smooth. It makes a hug difference in moon dust too. I'll only get about 150 miles per wax job/chain though, depending on riding conditions.

    You can make your own "wet" wax lube by dissolving parafin in white fuel (naptha), apply wet and let the solvent evaporate away. Its a really good refresh when the chain needs a bump in lubrication - good penetration too, and it work with the existing wax still left on the chain. If you try to dissolve too much parafin per volume of white fuel, you'll get a gellified mess, so go light. If the wax precipitates out of solution, you need more white gas. Its also temp dependent. The colder the temp, the more prone your wet lube is to freezing up. Apply with a $.40 acid brush, works on jockey wheels too...and especially spd cleats and pedals - get rid of the creak, ease clip in/out without dust and sand accumulating on the pedal face. This stuff is probably great on toast too. Seriously, I use it on everything - dropper posts seat rail clamps, pedal threads, anywhere you need lube but don't want dust build up.

    In a pinch, I bet this stuff would make for awesome redneck napalm, because zombies.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLCpowderhound View Post
    Nice! Just looked those up and seem pretty sweet. I don't think I'll be carrying that with me on a ride/race, but I just bought one to use at home. I LOVE having a clean drivetrain...which is most of the reason why I am so interested in using wax on my chain as opposed to traditional lube.
    The 3 brushes that form the "C" shape are removable. The are meant to be removed and reinstalled for thicker/thinner chains (dirt bike). Removing one of the brushes is small and effective. Mine is actually broken, 2 brushes installed, one housing is broken. I use the handle and brushes for most cleaning, but the loose brush is helpful for me to get the jockey wheels and inside of the chain.

    If you felt chain maintenance was important during your race, the removed brush is easy to carry with your tool stash.

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    I am a Squirt user too. It took a while to decide. For a while I was using a different brand lube each time I finished one bottle. I have a few that I will never use again, and others that are good. I've switched back to Squirt after trying a couple others. I don't understand how it is the messiest lube on the market by some testimonials, but we all have our own opinions.

    I pretty much 'paint' it on. Back pedal a few links then pedal forward just enough to hold tension on the chain (in my mind it separates the pins and rollers) then wipe the opening of the bottle over the rollers. It is thick enough that you can wipe across 3 or 4 or 5 pins with a light coating. Repeat this for a revolution and whala. I then back pedal until the thick appearance seems to be spread throughout the rollers/pins. After about each ride I will brush off the loose stuff then wipe it off. Apply the lube. Wipe off the chain ring and cog where lube was applied. Put the bike away for the next day.

    I guess if a person is in a hurry and applies it like the water thin lubes, it could be messy. In my experience, applying it link by link is not messy. Yes it sounds like it takes forever but at approximately 1 second per link over what, 114 links, is about 114 seconds. Yes, it did take a number of applications before I came up with the process I use. But through the summer as dry as it was here, and with all the trails having been baked from a month of fires, Squirt was what got me through 20 mile rides without a crunchy drive train.

    I know, chain lube is as touchy a subject as flats vs. clipped.

    Imagine the mocking a rider gets for using the wrong lube AND on riding the wrong pedals. Shunned....

    I've got 1,000 miles on the drive train and looking good. Still not worn to 0.5 on my 10 speed. Only a bit of grime some some of the side plates but otherwise nice and clean.

    I was lazy after purchasing this bike -and it was too expensive for chain, cassette and big ring (2x) to replace every 2 years. I developed a routine that works nice for me and so far, seems to be paying off. It will soon be time for a chain, but at least it will look good when replaced.

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    I put my bottle of squirt in the microwave for 20 seconds today and then applied the wax. Heating definitely changed the viscosity. That should in theory help penetration into the chain. I'll report back.

    Update #1: I was hoping to hit the trails but a wet snow started falling. I did notice it took at least an extra hour to solidify; that part really surprised me. If you apply it the night before obviously that's no big deal at all.
    Now, six hours later, running my hand over the rollers, the chain definitely feels different than a normal application. Again I will follow up.

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    Last edited by euro-trash; 1 Week Ago at 03:39 PM.

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    As the weather has gotten cooler here, not 'cold' necessarily, I have put the Squirt bottle under the hood of my truck to warm it while I'm cleaning and/or getting ready for chain maintenance.

    One could always store Squirt in their living space during cold months so it is at least room temperature. I don't know the chemistry of the product, but I wonder if too much heat will separate the materials too much.
    If I were to microwave it, and I have considered it, I would put it on a lower power for a while, 20 seconds maybe for half a bottle or more? Then shake it and repeat a few times instead of blasting it with heat.
    It's like quickly reheating pizza. It tastes fantastic until you get the cold bite without melted cheese.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I hate Sqirt lube - messy, sticky crap, and the stuff's so thick that I never felt it penetrated to where it really needed to be.

    I've been hot waxing with parafin for a few years now, keeping the family fleet up and running. Adding some parafin oil (lamp oil) to the melted parafin helps to soften it up and makes it less brittle - less flaking. I have multiple chains per bike for drivetrain longevity, and clean and hotwax the chains that are out of rotation, always have a new, freshly waxed one ready to put on. I now cringe when I see oily wet chains coated in layers of dust, like a wet rope drug through the sand.

    A freshly waxed chain is soooo buttery smooth. It makes a hug difference in moon dust too. I'll only get about 150 miles per wax job/chain though, depending on riding conditions.

    You can make your own "wet" wax lube by dissolving parafin in white fuel (naptha), apply wet and let the solvent evaporate away. Its a really good refresh when the chain needs a bump in lubrication - good penetration too, and it work with the existing wax still left on the chain. If you try to dissolve too much parafin per volume of white fuel, you'll get a gellified mess, so go light. If the wax precipitates out of solution, you need more white gas. Its also temp dependent. The colder the temp, the more prone your wet lube is to freezing up. Apply with a $.40 acid brush, works on jockey wheels too...and especially spd cleats and pedals - get rid of the creak, ease clip in/out without dust and sand accumulating on the pedal face. This stuff is probably great on toast too. Seriously, I use it on everything - dropper posts seat rail clamps, pedal threads, anywhere you need lube but don't want dust build up.

    In a pinch, I bet this stuff would make for awesome redneck napalm, because zombies.
    Great! This is exactly the info I was looking for! Where I ride we can get pretty deep moon dust from time to time, and while I know there is no perfect solution, I am looking for the cleanest, smoothest running drivetrain in those conditions. 150 miles per wax is pretty good I'd say.

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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal_len1 View Post
    I'm fully in the molten speed wax or bust camp. I run it on my GX eagle drivetrain in all conditions. I've done ORAMM, among other big rides with it, with no big issues. Just looked at Strava, and I did ~850 miles this year, and waxed the chain 3 times. Does not seem like the chain is close to the .5 chain wear mark either. Dry and dusty conditions is where waxed chains shine. As said above, prep is very key. You need to spend a lot of time making sure that you get the chain super clean, or the wax won't last for as long.
    Me too.

    I run the Molten Chain wax. It's super easy, super clean, and makes the drivetrain last just so freakin' long. I usually rewax when I'm swapping my rear tire.

    I remove my chain, sometimes I wipe it down with a bit of mineral spirits, sometimes I don't, then I just boil it in the wax. For a long time I kept the wax in a jar which I would reuse and would just place the jar in a boiling pot. But then I cracked the jar and now I just have wax in an old pot. The wax just stays in this pot and I bring it in from the garage just to do the chains.

    When you get to where you can hear your chain squeaking, it's time to rewax it.

    Just fish the chain out when the wax is liquid and hang the chain to dry, which takes 2-10 minutes depending on temps.

    I have a 12 speed chain that is quite old and it shows no wear at all. I don't track miles (although my riding buddy told me we did 15 miles last night) but this chain shows no wear and in the same time I've used about 8 rear tires up.

  32. #32
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    I've been using Molten Speed Wax for a full season now. It's been fantastic. Sure it's a little more time consuming to clean the chain properly then wax but I always do two at a time and it's not bad once you get a system. I take the rear wheel on and off quite a bit for use on my Cyclops Hammer and really like how clean everything stays and how quiet the drive train is.

    After a full season of indoor and outdoor use I don't plan on going back to any other form of lube. Might keep a little squirt lube around if i get in a pinch and don't have a spare chain handy but I'm sold on waxing. Our conditions are usually dry and silty.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Rider View Post
    Repeat this for a revolution and whala.
    Sorry, i cant resist .... its VOILA. whala isn't a word in any language.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAvery View Post
    Sorry, i cant resist .... its VOILA. whala isn't a word in any language.
    Correct.

    And "whala" should have been capitalized in your post above.
    Whining is not a strategy.

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    Not sure if Iím just too lazy to mess with that or being a garage-less apt dweller makes it too inconvenient, but then I can just keep one or two non-reuseable chain links around rather than a case ...

  36. #36
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    Started waxing a few months ago. So smooth!

    My chains too, works great!

    I went with the cheap parafin wax experiment. If I liked it, I'll some good stuff. Well, I do like it, so I'm going to invest in good stuff soon.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    Started waxing a few months ago. So smooth!

    My chains too, works great!

    I went with the cheap parafin wax experiment. If I liked it, I'll some good stuff. Well, I do like it, so I'm going to invest in good stuff soon.
    Over the years, I've deduced that you have some power going on, so I'll ask how long you're getting out of a waxing in a true mtb environment?

    At 10 hours of training intensity dirt riding, I'd be tempted to give it a whirl!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Over the years, I've deduced that you have some power going on, so I'll ask how long you're getting out of a waxing in a true mtb environment?

    At 10 hours of training intensity dirt riding, I'd be tempted to give it a whirl!
    I'd say above avg power/weight...but nothing spectacular.

    I don't yet have great anecdotal data yet. But my feeling is, with a couple of endurance races, I love it. Going all 12 hours in the dry desert with no good awful noise is great. And I went just shy of 1000 miles on my roadie.

  39. #39
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    Squirt will get you there. It's all I use.

    Wipe your chain thoroughly with a clean rag. Warm Squirt in your hand and shake it if needed to get it flowing. Pedal the bike and let a little flow out onto the rollers. Between roller and face plate if you can get that precise.

    Once you have a good amount on, keep pedaling the chain. I give it 3-4 full run throughs and I slow down and as the chain goes over the cassette you should see the lube gush out from underneath the roller. Then you know you've put enough on and it has spread itself around.

    I give a quick wipe at this point to get the excess.

    Give it a little while to dry, then come back and do another thorough wipe. I get any excess off jockey wheels and chain ring too.

    Chain stays clean, runs quietly a long time. Anybody who says this stuff is messy didn't read the directions. It's the best lube I've used to date.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I'd say above avg power/weight...but nothing spectacular.

    I don't yet have great anecdotal data yet. But my feeling is, with a couple of endurance races, I love it. Going all 12 hours in the dry desert with no good awful noise is great. And I went just shy of 1000 miles on my roadie.
    So you are saying that you waxed your road chain once and put 1000 miles on it without touching it? Sweet!!

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    I went all in with Molton Speed Wax....small crock pot that I leave wax in, ultrasonic cleaner (many uses)..it's an investment. The real pain in ass is time and labor to clean a brand new chain to make ready for waxing. So I started with 3 new chains and prepped/waxed them all...now I just ride until chain looks ready for re-wax, then remove it an add one of the other two ready to go...rotating the 3 chains prolongs life of cassette & chainring (so they say...) and once I'm on the 3rd chain I clean/wax the other 2. It's more labor to hotwax, but so far I really like the results...clean drivetrain always...no mess and no dirty greasy chain ever...Have been doing it for about a year...I'm in northeast and conditions can be dry and dusty one day, and wet and muddy the next...so I get about 75-125 before I want to change, but I'm always conservative; am sure I could go longer most of the time...we'll see how long I last but so far I don't mind the extra labor and enjoy the results...but tinkering with my bike is good mental therapy so waxing ain't for everybody. I'd think nothing of entering an all-day race with freshly waxed chain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLCpowderhound View Post
    When you re-wax the chain are you cleaning it again or simply just taking the chain off, soaking it in wax then putting it back on the bike?
    When re-waxing you can likely just wipe the chain down and dump it in the hotwax to soak, agitating it around a bit to shake out the dirt, but this will shorten the lifespan of wax in the pot. I drop a used chain into a mason jar with mineral spirits and shake it up for a minute or two to clean then I transfer chain to another jar with denatured alcohol to clean off mineral spirits, then wipe, let dry (or whip around in the air), and dump into crockpot with wax and let soak for a while with periods of agitation to ensure wax gets inside rollers. About 5-10 minutes of total work (I'll decanter old mineral spirits & alcohol into new jars after dirt has settled to bottom, usually the first thing I do from last cleaning). If you have a dedicated shelf for everything it makes process relatively painless. The MSW site is pretty informative....yeah I know...MSW is pricier than Gulf Wax but not that bad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Squirt will get you there. It's all I use.
    Chain stays clean, runs quietly a long time. Anybody who says this stuff is messy didn't read the directions. It's the best lube I've used to date.
    I don't get it. I followed the instructions to the dot, but my experience is the exact opposite of yours with Squirt. My setup is a Rival 1 with an XG-1180 and GX Eagle chain.

    With Squirt my drivetrain never really felt smooth to begin with, but the chain became soooo loud after about 2-2,5 hours of riding. It sounded like a chain that is completely dry with zero lube.
    I think i've tried Squirt 2-3 times, always on a completely degreased chain and drivetrain but the end result was always the same.

    I really want this lube to work because the drivetrain stays so clean with it, any idea what I could be doing wrong?

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    I don't get it. I followed the instructions to the dot, but my experience is the exact opposite of yours with Squirt. My setup is a Rival 1 with an XG-1180 and GX Eagle chain.

    With Squirt my drivetrain never really felt smooth to begin with, but the chain became soooo loud after about 2-2,5 hours of riding. It sounded like a chain that is completely dry with zero lube.
    I think i've tried Squirt 2-3 times, always on a completely degreased chain and drivetrain but the end result was always the same.

    I really want this lube to work because the drivetrain stays so clean with it, any idea what I could be doing wrong?
    Same in all regards.

    To the point that after going through the whole process the third time I just binned the stuff so I would never be tempted again.

    Clean, quiet, short-lived. Pick any three!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    I don't get it. I followed the instructions to the dot, but my experience is the exact opposite of yours with Squirt. My setup is a Rival 1 with an XG-1180 and GX Eagle chain.

    With Squirt my drivetrain never really felt smooth to begin with, but the chain became soooo loud after about 2-2,5 hours of riding. It sounded like a chain that is completely dry with zero lube.
    I think i've tried Squirt 2-3 times, always on a completely degreased chain and drivetrain but the end result was always the same.

    I really want this lube to work because the drivetrain stays so clean with it, any idea what I could be doing wrong?
    I don't ride in the wet or mud. I think it's meant to be a dry condition lube, so maybe that?

    Also, I don't use degreaser on my chain ever. If there is still some on the internals of your chain, it may be counteracting your application.

    That's all I can think of that's different if you're doing everything as I said it above.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLCpowderhound View Post
    So you are saying that you waxed your road chain once and put 1000 miles on it without touching it? Sweet!!

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    That one time. I will probably stick to once a month, which will give me around 600-800 miles I am guessing. I think I am going to buy a collection of chains for all my bikes and just make it a quarterly routine to just dunk all of them in a single night.

    But at nearly 14,000 miles so far this year, I put a lot of miles on my bikes. Dirty, oily chains just get annoying. The waxing is so much cleaner and less maintenance.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    I don't ride in the wet or mud. I think it's meant to be a dry condition lube, so maybe that?

    Also, I don't use degreaser on my chain ever. If there is still some on the internals of your chain, it may be counteracting your application.

    That's all I can think of that's different if you're doing everything as I said it above.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    This was all in dry weather.

    I use a the Park Tool chain scrubber. First heavy degreaser, then soapy water for about 3-4-5 passes (which is even more than what Park Tool recommends). Towards the end the water in the chain cleaner is almost perfectly clear. Then I dry the chain, jockey wheels, chainring with an air compressor, and then I let the bike sit under the sun for a while.
    While cleaning I use a chain keeper so no cassette, and I always make sure to clean the jockey wheels and the chainring too.
    From what I can tell when I finish the whole drivetrain is completely dry and free of degreaser or any liquid really.

    I'm out of ideas what I could be doing wrong. So annoying to read good comments about Squirt.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    This was all in dry weather.

    I use a the Park Tool chain scrubber. First heavy degreaser, then soapy water for about 3-4-5 passes (which is even more than what Park Tool recommends). Towards the end the water in the chain cleaner is almost perfectly clear. Then I dry the chain, jockey wheels, chainring with an air compressor, and then I let the bike sit under the sun for a while.
    While cleaning I use a chain keeper so no cassette, and I always make sure to clean the jockey wheels and the chainring too.
    From what I can tell when I finish the whole drivetrain is completely dry and free of degreaser or any liquid really.

    I'm out of ideas what I could be doing wrong. So annoying to read good comments about Squirt.
    I don't know. Maybe you got a bad batch?!

    It's cheap to boot... Sorry dude! If you find yourself in San Diego bring your bike by and we can compare!

    For now I'll just be glad I'm not you I guess

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post

    For now I'll just be glad I'm not you I guess
    Oh man, savage!

    If i'm ever on that continent i'll hit you up.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    Oh man, savage!

    If i'm ever on that continent i'll hit you up.
    sorry, could not help myself.

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