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  1. #1
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    Building up my '05 Truth: Opinions needed!

    Hi all! Finally getting around to building up the truth I bought this fall. Details on the purchase HERE

    Size Large (I'm 5'9" 185ish"

    I already have a set of wheels I love built up by Dave's Speed Dream Wheels Very light, strong, and durable.

    king headset of course

    I figure I'm going to go with a XTR front der and crankset, and x.0 rear der and shifters.

    I'm currently an XTR cassette. is that compatible with the x.0?

    Should I go with the Avid or Shimano v-brakes? Probably the Single Digit SL or Ultimate vs XTR. Do I have to go with Avid because I'm using SRAM shifters and brake levers?

    Probably a Thompson stem (not sure what length) and easton monkeylite bar and seatpost.

    Dunno about the saddle yet. Been wanting to try a FIZIK Aliante.

    And finally...what 100mm fork should I try? I want something fairly plush and light. Since I'm a heavier rider I don't want it to be flexy. Is that TerraLogic by Fox all it's cracked up to be?

    What do you think?

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    The XTR cassette will work fine with the SRAM shifters. You don't have to use the Avid brakes with the SRAM. I'm using Magura and they work perfect. The Aliante saddle is great but mine ripped pretty easy on me, expensive saddle to rip up. For mountain bikes the Gobi seems to hold up much better. I have the F100X fork on my Truth and I love it!

    Oh, unless you just want to spend the money on the XTR the XT front derailleur works perfect on this bike and costs a lot less. Also, I have an X.9 derailleur on my Truth and an X.0 derailleur on my Enlightenment. I can't tell any difference in the shifting.

  3. #3
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    I don't think the XTR combo shift/brake lever will work with X.0 RD, so you need an old version XTR brake lever, and a set of X.0 trigger shifter (they are nice).

    You might want to try a shorter stem (like 70mm), judging from your height (5'9") and the bike size (L).

  4. #4
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    Truth setup

    Quote Originally Posted by skyfish
    You might want to try a shorter stem (like 70mm), judging from your height (5'9") and the bike size (L).
    I'm 5'10.5" 220lbs. On my Medium Truth I used a 110mm stem. For a fork I had a Fox 100RLT which I loved.
    On my new Medium Epiphany I moved to a 90mm stem and a 130mm Talas....

    ___________o
    ------- _`\<,_ ~~ It is better to have done ~~
    ------ (*)/ (*) ~~ too much than not enough. ~~
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  5. #5
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    V-brake levers and V-brakes are interchangeable between brands.

    Cassettes are interchangeable between brands to work with any same speed shifter and derailleur.

    However, if you go with SRAM rear derailleur you must use SRAM shifters because SRAM derailleurs are 1:1 actuation whereas Shimano is, I believe, 2:1 ratio.

    You may want to stay away from that Easton carbon seatpost, there are a lot of reviews in the product review section that point to seat post slippage, seat clamp slippage and the seat post being crushed from overtightening of the seat collar. Go with the Thomson Elite, one of the best seat post money can buy...and it doesn't take that much money!

  6. #6
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    The Avid Ultimate brakes look sweet, Cambria Bike has them on bargain basement sale right now, check out the link:

    http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=12845

    As for the XTR cassette, I recommend staying with Shimano. I've never had issues with them on a SRAM drivetrain. Shifts are crisp and smooth. There was a post the other day about SRAM cassettes eating up CK hubs. I'm not sure which hubs you have on your wheels but the link you provided shows CK hubs. Here's the post:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=160505

    Enjoy the bike, it's a great ride. Did you ride a large Truth before you bought the frame? I'm 6' and I ride a Med.

  7. #7
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    i did ride a large in moab once. seemed to fit me pretty well. according to ellsworth's site a large fits someone 5'5" - 6'2". that's a pretty wide range and i'm hoping i won't regret it. the medium says 5'7" and under so

    i called the dealer and he told me to get it. of course, he also told me i'd be covered under an ellsworth factory warranty

  8. #8
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    If you ordered the 18" 5'5"-6'2", you're good. That's actually a medium. Ellsworth's starts with XS, S, M, then L. According to E's website, the L will fit a person 5'9". If you have a long torso it should fit. I rode a L Moment and it just felt a little to big for me.

  9. #9
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    Keeping it in the SRAM family, I'd go for Avids. You won't have shifter lever/pod issues, since you have to have different brake levers and shifters as you'll be using the SRAM rear der. And to add to that, go for a Rock Shox Reba. They're light, cheap and stiff. They're equally as good as Fox.

    Thomson rules, pick up some of that stuff. Since you're starting fresh, you can get the oversized (31.8mm) bar and stem combo. Same weight, yet stiffer. Carbon bars will give you a bit of damping for trail chatter.

  10. #10
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    the reba gets pretty good reviews on mtbr and they don't seem to have the seal issues the fox forks do. plus, i can afford to buy the reba at my LBS. i would pick up a fox on ebay or mail order and that would be a pain to get warranty work done in the event something went bad.

    however, i'm going to take a list of parts i'm looking for to my LBS and see if they can get anywhere close to the prices i can find online. i'm willing to spend a little more to buy it from them.

  11. #11
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    that's what the parts will cost me if i buy them new online. plus shipping. crap.


    but i plan on ebaying as many of them as i can so i'm interested to see how cheaply i can get them.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru



    that's what the parts will cost me if i buy them new online. plus shipping. crap.


    but i plan on ebaying as many of them as i can so i'm interested to see how cheaply i can get them.
    Holy mackrel! Some of those parts are expensive!

    Personally, I'd substitute a few, if I were you and save some $$. The Thomson Masterpiece is not necessary, the regular Thomson seatpost is just fine (call Larry Mettler at mtnhighcyclery.com for good prices on Thomson components). The Fizik saddle seems way over the top. Why not a good Terry or WTB? I got my Terry Fly, Ti rails for $59. XTR cranks are nice, but I doubt they're much better or more durable than XT cranks. Also, XO shifters are the bees knees, but X.9 is just as effective and cost much less. Same goes for the rear derailleur, X.9 is an excellent performer. How many times can you crash that carbon X.0 before it's going to fail? It's more likely that you'll find a deal on brakes and levers together. You might keep looking.

    As far as the fork goes, you can get a Float RLC from Push for $699. That's with the mods already done. Your $650 figure is simply too high for a fork, IMO. The Reba or a Marathon would be a great alternative. I'm not overly impressed with Fox forks. I don't like the bushing play (by design!) and I've seen many a leaking Float and Vanilla.

  13. #13
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    OMG, that spreadsheet reminded me of Ahimanic, except he had a column for how much each item weighed. You should ask him for the spreadsheet. ; )

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    LOL! That does remind me of my spreadsheet. I weighed each component before I installed them and logged them in the spreadsheet. I can play around with the components in the worksheet and figure out how much my bike would weigh. It's especially helpful when you have 2-3 bikes.

    I would have to agree with everyone else, either you have a really fat budget or you're shopping in an expensive LBS. Most of the items are way high. If you don't mind going with last year's stuff you can really save on the fork and monkey lite carbon bar. If you can still find last year's model they're going for around $60. You can check out online prices at: www.qbike.com

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    i have the same spreadsheet for a moment i'm currently putting together. only i fill in the price and weight when i buy a part. the weight is reported, not actual at this point, as the frame and fork are being shipped to the shop, and i don't have a scale anyways.

    my father is an accountant, and i inherited his, well, whatever it is that accountants have. what's your excuse?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by metaldork
    my father is an accountant, and i inherited his, well, whatever it is that accountants have. what's your excuse?
    I don't need an excuse, I am an accountant! Hahaha!

    For the most part, the reported weight are pretty close.

  17. #17
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    dewthedru, sizes according to Ellsworth website

    Truth
    S (16") Rider < 5'7" Stand over 29" Top Tube 22.25"
    M (18") Rider 5'5" - 6'2" Stand over 30" Top Tube 23.5"
    L (20") Rider > 5'9" Stand over 31" Top Tube 24.25"

    Plus you'll need a few more things: chain, cable housing (X.0 shifters come with cable but no housing), grips, tires, and maybe QR if you don't already have them.

    I also had a spreadsheet and weighed everything before I put my Moment together

  18. #18
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    yeah. i have some cable and housings so i didn't include that. not sure how much i'll need. i'll likely get a shimano chain. haven't heard much good about sram chains.


    anyone know which length of cranks usually come on a truth? i have NO idea which ones are "normal"

  19. #19
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    hehe....yeah. those parts are def overkill but i'm building up my dream bike.

    the drivetrain is going to be xtr and x.0. i'm not compromising there.

    but the seat, fork, handlebar, and post i'm willing to move on. i won, bought, and sold 3 xbox 360's and sold another bike and that all paid for the frame. i just sold some other stuff and have an extra $300 or so to put towards components.

    so...i'm going to have to come up with about $2k of my own money for an incredible (imho) bike.



    sorry...another stupid question. do i want a medium or long x.0 rear der?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahimanic
    LOL! That does remind me of my spreadsheet. I weighed each component before I installed them and logged them in the spreadsheet. I can play around with the components in the worksheet and figure out how much my bike would weigh. It's especially helpful when you have 2-3 bikes.

    I would have to agree with everyone else, either you have a really fat budget or you're shopping in an expensive LBS. Most of the items are way high. If you don't mind going with last year's stuff you can really save on the fork and monkey lite carbon bar. If you can still find last year's model they're going for around $60. You can check out online prices at: www.qbike.com

    i used http://www.comparisonpricing.com to find most of the prices.

  21. #21
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    Long cage XO rear derailleur I believe...assuming you want to run 34 teeth.

    SRAM chains are great! Easy on/off with the master link and most importantly no need to replace the pesky pin when you disassemble a chain like Shimano. SRAM shifts great too.

    The most common crank length is 175mm. With the size frame you have you won't need 170mm.

  22. #22
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    bought the x.0 trigger shifters and long der for $345 and picked up a 2005 monkeylite ec70 low-rise bar for $59.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    bought the x.0 trigger shifters and long der for $345 and picked up a 2005 monkeylite ec70 low-rise bar for $59.
    It's sweet stuff, but uhh...what about disc brakes? Those wet MI spring/fall days can be murder on brakes. I wore through a set of pads in on hour once. The sand combined with rain made for a mess. I don't know if your wheel set is disc compatible, but I'd consider that before you build up that bike. Disc really ARE worth the money. They are, in fact, much easier to deal with than canti brakes, IMO, especially if you're going to be taking the front wheel off frequently, as when you put the bike on a roof rack.

    Also - I just thought of this, the Reba is only disc compatible (this may have changed for 2006), so you'd have to go with Fox or Marzocchi (or Manitou ).

  24. #24
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    sigh...the reason i am going for rim is that i can't say enough good things about my wheelset.

    http://www.speeddream.com/mountain_rim.php

    reviews here: http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Wheelset...ct_23649.shtml they have a 4.97/5 after 91 reviews!

    i don't know if they can be converted to a disc set. doubt it.

    i've had rim brakes for a while and rarely go through pads. the trails i ride don't have many descents and if i can stay with rim brakes, i'd be happy.

    i've used disc before and know they work very well but i don't have to buy a new set of wheels in addition to everything else.

  25. #25
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    Save the $$$

    Disc brakes are nice, but if you're not going downhill too often save the cash and keep your current wheelset. If you go disc, you'll have to buy new hubs and of course, you gotta get disc specific rims right? Our group went disc because we started hitting the lifts. Try coming down Mammoth Mtn with V brakes, your hands will be screaming for a rest.

    The other advantage is V brakes are lighter.

  26. #26
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    oh man...this is sexy!



    FSA K-FORCE MEGAEXO

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    oh man...this is sexy!



    FSA K-FORCE MEGAEXO
    I have that crankset on my Truth and it is great. Don't believe the claimed weight though, actual weight is 762 grams. However as much as I like it and the FSA Carbon Pro I have on my Enlightenment my next crankset will be an XT. For the money it just cannot be beat.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowCel
    I have that crankset on my Truth and it is great. Don't believe the claimed weight though, actual weight is 762 grams. However as much as I like it and the FSA Carbon Pro I have on my Enlightenment my next crankset will be an XT. For the money it just cannot be beat.


    you're prolly right. i've just been telling myself that my dream bike will have xtr for so long that logic is having a hard time penetrating my decision-making process.

    right now the xtr is going for $328 on jenson, $300 or so on ebay new, and the xt can be had for $255, and about $180 on ebay. only about a 70 gram difference and from what i can tell, you get improved durability.

    the front der price difference is about $65 but only about 11 grams in difference. i'm considering moving down there as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    yeah. i have some cable and housings so i didn't include that. not sure how much i'll need. i'll likely get a shimano chain. haven't heard much good about sram chains.


    anyone know which length of cranks usually come on a truth? i have NO idea which ones are "normal"
    If you are a high cadence rider then try a 172.5 or even 170 mm, otherwise 175 mm should work for that bike size.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowCel
    I have that crankset on my Truth and it is great. Don't believe the claimed weight though, actual weight is 762 grams. However as much as I like it and the FSA Carbon Pro I have on my Enlightenment my next crankset will be an XT. For the money it just cannot be beat.
    I've heard these have a better q factor than Shimanos as well. To some this makes a difference. I'm not sure I'd notice it.

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    interesting. i didn't know what that was until i looked it up here: http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/qfactor/qfactor.htm

  32. #32
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    See, you thought XTR was the Motts, but in reality, everyone knows XTR...go for something with some style, some pizazz. You see a lot of Ralph Lauren around, but not a lot of Versace - rarity makes it special!

    J/K, get what works best! You don't want to have to be replacing those 'spensive parts too often.

    If I make it back home this summer, we'll have to hook up for a ride. My folks live in Monroe.

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    lol.


    hey....what's y'alls opinion on the poplock remote on the rockshox reba team? useful or not? would i use it often enough to spend another $50 and have another "thing" attached to the handlebar? can i buy it seperately later if i decide i want it?

  34. #34
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    I have the pop lock on my SID team that I have on my Enlightenment. I use it all the time. I actually find myself looking for it when I am riding my Truth with the F100x.
    Last edited by LowCel; 02-03-2006 at 12:22 PM.

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    you guys rock. gotta love semi-instant advice.

    just bought: Rock Shox 06 Reba Team Blk w/Poploc fork Shocks



    $460 incl shipping


    now i just have to decide between the XT, XTR, and FSA crankset. hmmmm....it's ok if it takes a while because my credit card is still smoking.

  36. #36
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    One thing about Pop Lock, if you don't like it, you can't just remove it. It has some special compression dial just for the cable that the remote operates. In order to swap it out, you'd need a new dial from RS. Same goes for not having it and wanting it.

    There are trails that you might ride where you'd like to lockout the fork as MI is pretty smooth. It's not too hard to adjust the compression while you ride. Unless you're racing, Pop Loc is an added expense that I can't imagine using. On my fork, I dial back and forth different TST and ETA settings without a problem.

    With only 100mm up front, bob was never an issue for my Reba. The Motion Control is excellent for that. Essentially, what I'm saying is that you could save a bit of money here on the Pop Loc. It's really a racer feature. Low Cell, you race, don't you?

  37. #37
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    dammit man! why didn't you say all that BEFORE i pushed the "purchase now" button???




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    sigh...bought the xtr crankset and will have the xtr front der soon.

    a bit pedestrian? perhaps.

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    sorry. another question.

    do i need the Shimano XTR FD-M961 Front Derailleur - Bottom Swing OS or the FD-M 960 Shimano XTR Twin Pull Front Derailleur (Top Swing)?


    i thinks it's the first one correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    sorry. another question.

    do i need the Shimano XTR FD-M961 Front Derailleur - Bottom Swing OS or the FD-M 960 Shimano XTR Twin Pull Front Derailleur (Top Swing)?


    i thinks it's the first one correct?
    Yes, Truth takes traditional bottom swing FD. And you'll need 35 mm clamp size.

  41. #41
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    i appreciate everyone's help. i have everything but the seat, cables, and stem.

    i have no idea what seat to buy but the guys in the LBS are pimping the wtb saddles pretty hard. i know it's an individual choice and i'll test a few before i make a decision.

    thanks again. i'll post pics in a month or so when it's all assembled.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    i appreciate everyone's help. i have everything but the seat, cables, and stem.

    i have no idea what seat to buy but the guys in the LBS are pimping the wtb saddles pretty hard. i know it's an individual choice and i'll test a few before i make a decision.

    thanks again. i'll post pics in a month or so when it's all assembled.
    Which WTB are you getting? Maybe try some lighter (sub 200 g) saddles first?

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    Quote Originally Posted by chad1433
    With only 100mm up front, bob was never an issue for my Reba. The Motion Control is excellent for that. Essentially, what I'm saying is that you could save a bit of money here on the Pop Loc. It's really a racer feature. Low Cell, you race, don't you?
    Hmm, a little late on this one. Anyway, yeah I enter races and typically finish them. I'll let you know at the end of the season if I actually "raced" though. I had better be able to call it racing, as hard as I have been working. I've been following my coaches directions to the letter since September.

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    ok. i went a little over the top on the saddle.

    2006 Fizik fi'zi:k Aliante Ti w/ Carbon bike Saddle






    an ellsworth deserves no less eh?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    ok. i went a little over the top on the saddle.

    2006 Fizik fi'zi:k Aliante Ti w/ Carbon bike Saddle
    A fine Italian piece of art. Let us know how that feels. I've ridden a Nissen for a while and found it to be too stiff. It's an older model that came stock on my wife's Homegrown. The Terry Fly I'm on now is okay, but lacks any kind of anti-abrassion sides so it's gotten torn up.

    I'm thinking about getting a custom Fizik or some sort of Selle Italia...gotta love that Italian craftsmanship!

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    also bought the Avid Speed Dial SL brake and levers. saved a bit of money over the ultimate but it's pretty much the same thing...and a tiny bit lighter. i'm not sure i want all of the adjustments that the ultimate lever offered. i can't ever decide on a setting and am always messing around with them so i'd rather not have that many choices.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    also bought the Avid Speed Dial SL brake and levers. saved a bit of money over the ultimate but it's pretty much the same thing...and a tiny bit lighter. i'm not sure i want all of the adjustments that the ultimate lever offered. i can't ever decide on a setting and am always messing around with them so i'd rather not have that many choices.
    this is a nice feature to have:

    Cam-Split Clamp™
    Easiest way to install a brake lever - keep the grips where they are

  48. #48
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    added this.



    and in case anyone here is a big enough bike nerd to notice...yeah. i know the pictured HS is 1" and i need 1 1/8"

    man...it's dangerous for me to be sitting around in the hotel room waiting for my boss to pick me up. i just can't stop spending money.

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    now i gotta figure out which thompson stem to get. looking at either the 70 or 100mm.

    should i just measure distance from the seat post and handlebar on my old klein and try to duplicate that?

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    do most of you use spacers? i didn't on my klein but i'm thinking about starting out with 2 or so and see how i like it.

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    Most people do use spacers, about an inch or inch and a half is about average. You want your bars roughly the same height as your saddle.

    I would recommend you start out with a healthy stack of spacers to preserve the longer steer tube length. You can always cut the steer tube down later when you have decided on a height.

    You can also move some of the spacers from below the stem to the top of the stem to adjust the height and find out what you like.

    Once you cut your steer tube too short there is no going back....

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahimanic
    I would recommend you start out with a healthy stack of spacers to preserve the longer steer tube length. You can always cut the steer tube down later when you have decided on a height.
    Good advice there...I didn't cut my newest fork at all. If you ever want to sell it because it doesn't work out for you or you decide to upgrade or whatever, it's better to have more steertube for resale value. I use only about 1" of spacers because the stem I'm using is very tall on the steer tube. Another consideration, when changing stems between brands, they may measure differently. Some stems may not fit if you cut too much steer tube. Other may require more spacers. Trial and error on this one.

  53. #53
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    thanks guys. once again you have proven to be invaluable. i'm hoping to get this thing built up the last week of this month when i return from a cruise.

    and do any of you know if the vancouver plant gives tours? i have business there once/month and would love to walk through it.

  54. #54
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    wOOt! building it up today and tomorrow. i have the last parts, the stem and cables, showing up this morning.


    the cable will likely take me the longest to install. i bought the sram flack jacket setup and am interested to see if i'll notice a difference.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewthedru
    wOOt! building it up today and tomorrow. i have the last parts, the stem and cables, showing up this morning.


    the cable will likely take me the longest to install. i bought the sram flack jacket setup and am interested to see if i'll notice a difference.
    I ran the Avid Flak Jackets on my old Truth. They are light and look great but are a bit of PIA to install. They are really stiff so the short front derailleur section that goes from the top tube to the seat tube takes more effort to measure correctly and install. The ferrules have the long sealing sleeves which I had trouble fitting them into the cable stops. They are fatter and ended up pinching the cables when I shoved them into the stops. I finally had to enlarge the cable stop hole slightly with a drill to accommodate the fatter ferrule sleeves. Perhaps the new Truths have bigger cable stops.

    If your Truth has the convertible cable stops (accommodates full-length cable housing) I would run full length instead of cutting the cables. It'll be much smoother. Flak Jacket is really light so the add'l weight is nothing. The package may not provide you with enough housing to run full length though.

  56. #56
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    i was worried about it being a PIA to install so i dropped the bike off at my LBS this afternoon to have them run the brake and shiter cables for me, as well as install the chain and chop down the steerer tube. Figured it's better to spend $65 to have them do something that will take me 4-5 very frustrated and pissed off hours to do myself.

    it was fun taking it in. it's a trek/fisher/lemond/specialized shop and they oohed and aahed over it. i felt like such a pimp.

  57. #57
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    it's done! i just havw to put in the remote lockout for the reba and adjust all the shocks and i'll be ready to rock. according to the bike shop, it weighed 23 ponds bore i put the pedals on.

    i can't believe how plush it is. amazing. can't wait to rock the trails on this baby. and the cockpit seems a lot smaller than my medium klein. i might try to trade the 100mm stem for at least a 120. or move to a 110 and remove a spacer. but it's def not too big.

    having a hard time removing my perma-grin. hope to ride it soon. looks like it will be a week before i can so so tho'.

  58. #58
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    believe it or not i just took it out for the first time yesterday. i've been travelling a ton and it was the first opportunity i had to do so.

    the frame is great. can't say enough about the way i can just fly over stuff that used to slow me down. blah blah blah.

    my favorite part of the new ride it the way it shift. click. click. click. into gear virtually every time without the slightest bit of hesitation. unless shimano can match the way the x.0 shifts, i'll never leave SRAM!

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