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  1. #1
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    Steel chainring durability

    Have a 2x9 (40/27) drivetrain-- shifts fine, but chain is @ .75 so thought i would replace it. Alot of grinding on the small ring now. Chain won't release from the teeth,all kind of chainsuck. If i switch to the barely used large ring, no issues.I need a new ring i assume? I put a steel one on 9 months ago because i was tired of replacing the alloy one every 6 months. I was expecting a few years out of it, so i haven't even bothered to check it. The teeth look sharp--after just 9 months? Disappointing for sure, i thought steel had alot more durability. I have 86bcd (no aftermarket avail) so i can only buy OEM rings from FSA.

  2. #2
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    Sounds like FSA might not be heat treating their steel rings properly if at all. Might want to try and heat treat the next one yourself and see if you get better results.

    Or you might screw things up even more. I honestly pulled this reply out of my @ss so do what you want.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoftballGuy View Post
    I put a steel one on 9 months ago because i was tired of replacing the alloy one every 6 months.
    Was the chain new at that time? A worn chain will prematurely wear out a chainring. I get several thousand miles out of alloy chainrings but I replace chains quite regularly.

  4. #4
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    I put on a new chain at the time, have already replaced it once, now replacing again. I found a slightly used alloy chainring, i flipped it and put it on, seemed to solve that issue, however now my cassette is slipping under load. Cassette is a yr old but looks like i'm off to the LBS for a new one. Wasn't expecting a simple 5min chain replacement to open a can of drivetrain worms. Maybe i should replace chains at .5 instead of .75.

  5. #5
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    This has more to do with the gear than the chain. I had a 34 teeth Alivo lock up on me in traffic. Since then I have went back to gears with out ramps and pins. A 34 will last around 20000 miles. a 27 will last around half that. It will also lock up under a smaller chain stretch. I can run mine to 1.25 percent. They get noisy but don't lock up. https://www.flickr.com/photos/633739...posted-public/
    "Dish is illogical." Spoke of Vulcan.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoftballGuy View Post
    I put on a new chain at the time, have already replaced it once, now replacing again. I found a slightly used alloy chainring, i flipped it and put it on, seemed to solve that issue, however now my cassette is slipping under load. Cassette is a yr old but looks like i'm off to the LBS for a new one. Wasn't expecting a simple 5min chain replacement to open a can of drivetrain worms. Maybe i should replace chains at .5 instead of .75.
    I replace chains at .5. I get 2-3 chains per cassette and a few cassettes per chainring change at least on my old multi-ring setups. I am new to 1x, so I haven't been through a full drivetrain change on that yet. Still, I've got about 900mi on my 28t alloy NW chainring and it still looks quite good. I got about 600mi on my first chain on that bike to the .5 wear point, though, so I'm well into my 2nd chain now. Cassette is still good, though.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    I replace chains at .5. I get 2-3 chains per cassette and a few cassettes per chainring change at least on my old multi-ring setups.
    That's about my ratio. I don't even measure, I just replace my chain every 500 miles or so.

  8. #8
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    FSA also makes a 28T and a 30T replacement. I don't know if a 28T would really make a difference on durability. Maybe getting a 30T would extend ring life,it only comes in alloy though. I don't know if it would clear the chainstay, i assume it would, i have about an 1" clearance with the 27T.

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