SRAM GX Eagle shifting issue- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    SRAM GX Eagle shifting issue

    Shifts fine on the high end then ragged on the low end. When barrel adjusted to shift on the low end, then the high end begins to skip and shift ragged. New drivetrain on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT. Check B screw adjustment, limits, etc. Maybe new chain is stiff? Could derailleur alignment be off with thru axle hanger?

  2. #2
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    Derailleur alignment has always fixed that problem for me.

  3. #3
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    Derailleur has to be perfect on these larger cassettes. Also, did you use the gauge to set the b screw?

  4. #4
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    Sounds like a bent derailleur hanger to me or if you're very unlucky a bent B-knuckle or pulley cage.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  5. #5
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    More than likely the hanger if the drivetrain is new.

  6. #6
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    I just went through this with a GX Eagle drivetrain on a new bike.

    I started with the chain. It was a link too long, and had a very tacky lube on it. But, that wasn't the problem.

    Then I checked the hanger. It was true to the wheel, but the problem is that this derailleur has a lot of play/flex. With the correct chain tension it pulls the guide pulley away from the cassette on the larger sprockets. I had to bend the hangar to move the derailleur inward to compensate.

    Then it was just a matter of fine tuning the B screw and barrel adjustment.

    It shifts perfectly on both ends of the cassette now, but I am disappointed with the build quality of this derailleur. You shouldn't have to run a bent hanger to make it shift properly.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mousead View Post
    I just went through this with a GX Eagle drivetrain on a new bike.

    I started with the chain. It was a link too long, and had a very tacky lube on it. But, that wasn't the problem.

    Then I checked the hanger. It was true to the wheel, but the problem is that this derailleur has a lot of play/flex. With the correct chain tension it pulls the guide pulley away from the cassette on the larger sprockets. I had to bend the hangar to move the derailleur inward to compensate.

    Then it was just a matter of fine tuning the B screw and barrel adjustment.

    It shifts perfectly on both ends of the cassette now, but I am disappointed with the build quality of this derailleur. You shouldn't have to run a bent hanger to make it shift properly.
    Great feedback! I am going to check the alignment tomorrow and if all is true will bend to compensate and readjust.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mousead View Post
    I just went through this with a GX Eagle drivetrain on a new bike.

    I started with the chain. It was a link too long, and had a very tacky lube on it. But, that wasn't the problem.

    Then I checked the hanger. It was true to the wheel, but the problem is that this derailleur has a lot of play/flex. With the correct chain tension it pulls the guide pulley away from the cassette on the larger sprockets. I had to bend the hangar to move the derailleur inward to compensate.

    Then it was just a matter of fine tuning the B screw and barrel adjustment.

    It shifts perfectly on both ends of the cassette now, but I am disappointed with the build quality of this derailleur. You shouldn't have to run a bent hanger to make it shift properly.
    I must have gotten lucky with mine. It was the easiest drivetrain ever to setup. Installed, tensioned cable, set limits, used the gauge to set the b screw and it was perfect.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    I must have gotten lucky with mine. It was the easiest drivetrain ever to setup. Installed, tensioned cable, set limits, used the gauge to set the b screw and it was perfect.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    Mine shifted perfectly on Day1. Day2 skipping etc began. I figured the usual cable stretch, but doesn't appear to be so. Maybe I bent the hanger! We'll see, need to run my alignment gauge on it.

  10. #10
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    SRAM 11 and 12 speed set ups need a very well aligned hanger. Also some bikes have a somewhat tortured cable routing like my Bronson. I find using a good Shimano polymer coated cable and good Shimano housing will improve the shift quality a lot. Once the cable starts getting dirty, the chain does not drop to a higher gear very well in a couple mid cassette gears but it's OK in the higher and lower gears.

  11. #11
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    Just installed GX Eagle last night w/X01 cassette & chain on my '18 Epic HT.
    I concur about the play in the derailleur.
    Took a while to set up and I'm not convinced it's going to stay/behave. Time will tell.

  12. #12
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    The hanger needs to be perfectly strait. Also the cable needs to be routed correctly around the pinch bolt. This is the second most common shifting problem. After that get shimano sp41 cable housing and a good cable. The omnislick is my favorite. Don't assume new equals good. It should all be checked.

  13. #13
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    ^^ I normally use the Shimano Dura-Ace teflon coated cables. Unfortunately on my Epic HT, the internal routing involves a super thin sleeve inside the frame that doesn't allow a thicker cable than a naked std shifter cable. I think the Shimano Dura Ace are slightly thicker than a std cable?

  14. #14
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    Older DA cables had a soft polymer coating that would slough off and cause problems. New Optislick cables have a hard green coating that doesn't do that. It tougher and can flake off instead, but that doesn't cause any problems in my experience. I like the Optislick cables or black coated Jagwire cables. Jagwire has a new "polished" cable that I haven't tried yet.
    Do the math.

  15. #15
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    Interesting. I noticed both std cables, dura ace and optislick all say they're 1.2mm thick.
    It's worth a shot. I'll order some optislicks...

  16. #16
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    Anybody handle, install, ride a GX, X01 and/or XX1 RD for comparison?
    Any noticeable difference?
    Sometimes with SRAM components, the cheaper components actually get small tweaks/fixes incorporated into them them that their older, big brothers don't have.
    Other times, they're just junkier...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by COMTBR View Post
    Anybody handle, install, ride a GX, X01 and/or XX1 RD for comparison?
    Any noticeable difference?
    Sometimes with SRAM components, the cheaper components actually get small tweaks/fixes incorporated into them them that their older, big brothers don't have.
    Other times, they're just junkier...
    Mine is an XX1 setup.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Pierce View Post
    Mine is an XX1 setup.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    I was hoping to hear some someone that's had experience with those 3 levels for comparison's sake. My biggest initial install issue was not having enough tension on the line, despite giving myself 2 full turns of adjustability - the derailleur wouldn't go to full low limit.
    Once I loosened and retensioned the shifter line (right before it starts to pull the derailleur) all seemed well.
    But yeah, my hanger was out of alignment pretty good too, which further complicated things. There's 2 cogs - maybe #4 and #8 that don't like shifting into as quickly easily as all of the others. It was already getting better with use however. I think there is a short break-in needed.
    Anybody notice on the largest 50T dog that the chain sits funny on certain chain links? It's almost like the narrow wide teeth need to be lined up on the inside vs outside plates.
    As soon as I slide the chain one link forward or back on the cog, all the teeth sunk into the chain just fine. Weird. More break-in? Never experienced that with my X01 1x11 stuff.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by COMTBR View Post
    Anybody notice on the largest 50T dog that the chain sits funny on certain chain links? It's almost like the narrow wide teeth need to be lined up on the inside vs outside plates.
    As soon as I slide the chain one link forward or back on the cog, all the teeth sunk into the chain just fine. Weird. More break-in? Never experienced that with my X01 1x11 stuff.
    ^ This is the single reason that I haven't, and won't 'upgrade' to GX Eagle over my X1 11 speed setup. I have seen pictures and even a video from others describing exactly what you are talking about..... Seems 1/2 baked from SRAM to me.

  20. #20
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    I've looked closely at XX1, X01, GX and NX RDs. First three are very similar in construction, pivots, play, etc., and then there's a big dropoff in quality and precision with NX. It's still works pretty well, though.
    Do the math.

  21. #21
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    So I just went on my first real 2hr ride with the new Eagle combo. Holy crap it rocks.
    Super smooth shifting, no weirdness at all. Fast, crisp shifting.

    I was spinning out the tall cog a few times on some descents. Might entertain a 34T. I love it!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by COMTBR View Post
    So I just went on my first real 2hr ride with the new Eagle combo. Holy crap it rocks.
    Super smooth shifting, no weirdness at all. Fast, crisp shifting.

    I was spinning out the tall cog a few times on some descents. Might entertain a 34T. I love it!
    Wait, so it works fine now? And how are you spinning out the 10 tooth?! You are descending at like 30mph? Holy crap man.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  23. #23
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    ^^ last night I did a quick 3m ride right after install.
    Totally different deal today. Got to really ride on some familiar fast areas.
    I used to spin out my old 2x10 and the Eagle has even less range.
    After riding some steep hills today, I know I could move 32T > 34T, which would match the top end of my old 2x10. I'd be happy with that.
    Unless reliability changes somehow, I'm a firm believer in the Eagle.

  24. #24
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    Yep, derailleur hanger was bent about 20mm top to bottom! Replaced hanger, now shifting like butter.

    SRAM GX Eagle shifting issue-img_6562.jpg

  25. #25
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    ^ I need to get me one of those things.

  26. #26
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    Derailleur hanger alignment tool should be a must have for every mountain biker. Hangers get knocked all the time and can't be fixed without one. 90% of new hangers need aligned after installation too. Even on brand new bikes!

    The first rule of adjusting your shifter is : straighten your hanger! But it's new, doesn't matter do it anyway.
    Second rule is replace your cable and housing with shimano sp41. But it's new, doesn't matter do it anyway.

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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by COMTBR View Post
    Best $70 you will ever spend.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5k bike 50cent legs View Post
    Best $70 you will ever spend.
    The next will be the $22 you spend buying a new hanger after breaking your bent hanger while learning how to use the tool!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    The next will be the $22 you spend buying a new hanger after breaking your bent hanger while learning how to use the tool!
    Small price to pay. But, yes, always have a couple extra hangers around.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    The next will be the $22 you spend buying a new hanger after breaking your bent hanger while learning how to use the tool!
    hangers for my Salsa Bucksaw split pivot are more like $45

  32. #32
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    Only if you're a serious hack I've straightened hangers that was bent so bad the chain was to the other side of the cassette from the gear it should be in. You just need to know when to use the hanger and when to use it in concert with other tools, like a bench vise or hammer

    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    The next will be the $22 you spend buying a new hanger after breaking your bent hanger while learning how to use the tool!
    One of the bad ones
    SRAM GX Eagle shifting issue-lfp_3990_wp.jpg

    What happens when you don't know what you're doing and trying to "fix" it on the trail. Miraculously, I managed to straighten both the hanger and the derailleur cage so it shifted perfect and lasted for a few seasons for the guy.
    SRAM GX Eagle shifting issue-lfp_3993_wp.jpg
    Last edited by LyNx; 09-11-2017 at 07:13 AM. Reason: spelling
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Derailleur hanger alignment tool should be a must have for every mountain biker. Hangers get knocked all the time and can't be fixed without one. 90% of new hangers need aligned after installation too. Even on brand new bikes!

    The first rule of adjusting your shifter is : straighten your hanger! But it's new, doesn't matter do it anyway.
    Second rule is replace your cable and housing with shimano sp41. But it's new, doesn't matter do it anyway.
    Funny I mentioned how this needs to be one of your first tools in your bag in a tool thread and everyone disagreed.
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Funny I mentioned how this needs to be one of your first tools in your bag in a tool thread and everyone disagreed.
    A derailleur alignment tool, bleed kit, spoke wrench, and a multi tool will fix 99% of most problems.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Older DA cables had a soft polymer coating that would slough off and cause problems. New Optislick cables have a hard green coating that doesn't do that. It tougher and can flake off instead, but that doesn't cause any problems in my experience. I like the Optislick cables or black coated Jagwire cables. Jagwire has a new "polished" cable that I haven't tried yet.
    So Shimano is definitely placing the Optislick stuff BELOW the Dura Ace in their pricing and performance tiers. Assuming latest models of cables, which is better? I've had great luck with DA..

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by COMTBR View Post
    I have one as well. And have had to use it on all 3 brand new bikes I have built/owned. Right out of the box. I don't think a straight hanger exists from any builder to be honest...

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by COMTBR View Post
    So Shimano is definitely placing the Optislick stuff BELOW the Dura Ace in their pricing and performance tiers. Assuming latest models of cables, which is better? I've had great luck with DA..
    Optislick is better than Dura ace and Ultegra cables. The coating is more durable. I don't know if it's slicker, but it's gotta be close.

    Optislick is almost as good as the old XTR black cables. The coating would wear off on those, but it didn't leave any residue and the under cable was still super smooth.

    Optislick is my go to cable right now.

    https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...enu=1000,2,168

    Order some other parts, tires and Shimano sp41 housing to go with your cables. You cover the shipping in discounts.

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