SRAM Eagle AXS Chain Length- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    SRAM Eagle AXS Chain Length

    Manual and video say when chain overlapped to add 1 or and 1 inner link. The pics below show the graphic from the manual. They show the chain beginning to overlap at the end of the inner links. Then add 1 or and 1 inner. The actual pic shows how the chain aligns on my bike. The 2 inner links overlap a full link, rather than ends. To add a her and inner it may be a link to long. Hard to explain. I am lengthening chain because shop may have shortened 1 link to much. Thoughts?

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  2. #2
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    Shift into your biggest cog, unbolt your shock or let the air out of it, and carefully bottom the rear suspension out as far as it will go. Watch your derailleur and see if the upper pulley contacts the cog or if the pulleys pull past horizontal with the ground. If you clear the cog and there is still some upward movement of the derailleur cage while bottomed out, you're fine.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Shift into your biggest cog, unbolt your shock or let the air out of it, and carefully bottom the rear suspension out as far as it will go. Watch your derailleur and see if the upper pulley contacts the cog or if the pulleys pull past horizontal with the ground. If you clear the cog and there is still some upward movement of the derailleur cage while bottomed out, you're fine.
    Here are pics in the 50t and 10t cogs for reference. These were taken with the shock in place and with air.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Shift into your biggest cog, unbolt your shock or let the air out of it, and carefully bottom the rear suspension out as far as it will go. Watch your derailleur and see if the upper pulley contacts the cog or if the pulleys pull past horizontal with the ground. If you clear the cog and there is still some upward movement of the derailleur cage while bottomed out, you're fine.
    This might have been an okay method with some older systems, but not with SRAM. Because of the heavily offset upper pulley, you need the correct chain length.
    I've had the exact same discussion in another topic just the other day. I moved up 2 chainring sizes temporarily without changing the chain length. The cage still had some slack in the lowest gear. Yet shifting was noticeably worse, more crunchy, and I could feel much more resistance in the lower gears. (And yes I adjusted the B-gap again)

    To the OP. Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't think you can do anything here. First of all, you shouldn't add links on these chains, only with a quick link. You can only shorten or lengthen a chain in 1 inner and 1 outer increments. If you added a quick link, and an inner, then the chain would be just a bit too long compared to the pic in the manual.
    If you move up and down one chainring size (+ or - 2 teeth) you'd need to lengthen or shorten the chain just one single inner or outer link, but you can't do that. I think with some gear combinations and frames you just end up in a situation like this. SRAM says you can move up and down one chainring without touching your chain, if it was sized correctly in the first place.

    Any issues with shifting? Any pics with the shock compressed?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    This might have been an okay method with some older systems, but not with SRAM. Because of the heavily offset upper pulley, you need the correct chain length.
    I've had the exact same discussion in another topic just the other day. I moved up 2 chainring sizes temporarily without changing the chain length. The cage still had some slack in the lowest gear. Yet shifting was noticeably worse, more crunchy, and I could feel much more resistance in the lower gears. (And yes I adjusted the B-gap again)

    To the OP. Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't think you can do anything here. First of all, you shouldn't add links on these chains, only with a quick link. You can only shorten or lengthen a chain in 1 inner and 1 outer increments. If you added a quick link, and an inner, then the chain would be just a bit too long compared to the pic in the manual.
    If you move up and down one chainring size (+ or - 2 teeth) you'd need to lengthen or shorten the chain just one single inner or outer link, but you can't do that. I think with some gear combinations and frames you just end up in a situation like this. SRAM says you can move up and down one chainring without touching your chain, if it was sized correctly in the first place.

    Any issues with shifting? Any pics with the shock compressed?
    Yeah my thoughts exactly. I am caught in the middle so to speak. I don't have a shock compressed picture right now. I just think the shifting isn't as smooth as my Eagle 12 before. I was thinking maybe the chain was slightly too short and was causing this. However I don't have any miles on this setup and maybe it needs to wear a little.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    This might have been an okay method with some older systems, but not with SRAM. Because of the heavily offset upper pulley, you need the correct chain length.
    I've had the exact same discussion in another topic just the other day. I moved up 2 chainring sizes temporarily without changing the chain length. The cage still had some slack in the lowest gear. Yet shifting was noticeably worse, more crunchy, and I could feel much more resistance in the lower gears. (And yes I adjusted the B-gap again)

    To the OP. Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't think you can do anything here. First of all, you shouldn't add links on these chains, only with a quick link. You can only shorten or lengthen a chain in 1 inner and 1 outer increments. If you added a quick link, and an inner, then the chain would be just a bit too long compared to the pic in the manual.
    If you move up and down one chainring size (+ or - 2 teeth) you'd need to lengthen or shorten the chain just one single inner or outer link, but you can't do that. I think with some gear combinations and frames you just end up in a situation like this. SRAM says you can move up and down one chainring without touching your chain, if it was sized correctly in the first place.

    Any issues with shifting? Any pics with the shock compressed?
    Ah, I see. Yet another awesome feature, brought to you by SRAM Eagle drivetrains.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Ah, I see. Yet another awesome feature, brought to you by SRAM Eagle drivetrains.


    This design has been with us since 1x11 and Shimano has been using the same design just not as aggressively, until now. Look at the new XTR.
    IMO it's not the end of the world that you have to follow the manual when sizing the chain. They're doing it for a reason, works better with wide ratio cassettes.

    SRAM Eagle AXS Chain Length-sram-gx-eagle-type-3-0-12-speed-rear-derailleur-2018-model-black-long-57616-182086-1495519264.jpg

    SRAM Eagle AXS Chain Length-shimano-xtr-shadow-plus-rd-m9100-11-12-speed-rear-derailleur-grey-long-62127-228405-1538063497.jpg

  8. #8
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    Today I rode some heavy duty rooty rocky east coast single track. Worked great.

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