Results 1 to 51 of 51
  1. #1
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215

    Squirt Chainlube users: Am I doing it wrong?

    Okay, so this stuff is revered as the holy grail of chain lubes by lots of folks (including of course the guy who sold it to me). So I bought a bottle and applied as directed (i.e., spin the cranks and apply a bead, let dry, and wipe off) and holy hell this made such a friggin' mess of the whole drivetrain, I swore it off.

    Then a couple weeks ago, I was buying some more lube at a shop and the guy asks "hey, you ever try [squirt]?" I tell him the story and he says that I needed to apply it the night before, let it dry, and I should be good to go "for weeks."

    Uh huh . . . sure. So i get home, but this time, I apply the lube with the chain off the bike. One drop per roller this time, let it dry, wipe it off, and repeat. All seems good and first ride was great. 3 miles into the second ride, the chain clearly needs lube.

    What gives?? I got a total of about 20 miles out of one application . . . granted, the chain WAS clean and there's not grit in the DT, but seriously?? Even ProGold lasts longer than that.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    503
    A totally clean and dry chain is crucial before the initial application. Cogs, rings too. I just drop it on, leave it over night, don't wipe, just ride. After a ride I might give it a wipe to get any built up wax off the chainring and derailleur pulleys, but that's it. Runs clean in all conditions and lasts quite a while (I'm kind of OCD about it, so I reapply every three rides or so, or before a race.) I'm totally sold on it. Didn't clean my chain (in the traditional degreaser and a hose way) all summer. I did quite a lot of riding and racing -- including BC Bike Race -- and never once did it fail to run smoothly and come home clean. Don't give up on it.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joss002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    158
    Ive been using it for around a year now and have had no problems.
    I just add a drop on each pin,no mess or waste.On the instructions it says "do not wipe off".
    The main thing to do is make sure ALL the old lube is off the chain,drive train and dry before using Squirt for the first time.
    As for good to go "for weeks",I cant see that happening with ANY lube,I can go for around 3 rides ( 45'ish miles) without a relube,but since ive been using Squirt ive never had to degrease the chain which I had to after every ride with my other lubes as they would just gum up my chain with grey gunk.I just use a soft brush on it when I was the bike and relube.

  4. #4
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    Yeah, I soaked the chain in Simple Green and cleaned it thoroughly before the initial application. I'm giving it another application right now (off the bike, one drop per roller). Will let dry and put back on the bike without wiping.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mhelander's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    144
    OP missed the point of thoroughly rinsing of all oil from chain. Even then Squirt pulls off from rollers some remaining dirty oil residue some first reapplying, then chain & transmission & bike stays clean.

    Using narrow-wide chainring keeps chain inner cleaner, I'm only wiping outer dust off before reapplying.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Cheers,
    -Mika

  6. #6
    Moderator Moderator
    Reputation: Harryman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2,397
    I've been using Squirt for years, before I knew how "magical" it was LOL. I live in dry and dusty, so I've always been a fan of wax lubes except for the build up. Which Squirt is better at than most since it's not wax.

    Here's my routine: Backpedaling in the stand, I'll wipe the lower loop of the chain with a rag. Then, I'll drip a little drop on each link on the top loop. Let dry or just go ride. It takes @ a minute. I do this between every ride, since I hate dry and squeaky chains. Before you think I'm soaking the chain and it ends up dripping, a bottle will last me at least a year. Use sparingly.

    It lasts just fine for me on a mtb, and on a road bike for a couple hundred miles easily. I don't lube my road ride as often.

  7. #7
    Anytime. Anywhere.
    Reputation: Travis Bickle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,217
    When I degrease I use a solvent that was banned 40 years ago. In a well ventilated area with a good mask and heavy rubber gloves and apron I remove the chain, dip it briefly (too long will eat the steel), rinse in water and dry. Then I carefully dispose of the used solvent in my neighbour's garden.

    Seriously, I degrease my chain, rinse and dry before applying Squirt the first time. It is the awsomest although in the wet winter I switch to chainsaw bar oil. I bought 12 4oz bottles of Squirt a couple of years ago for $3.98 each. I'm good for a long time. Check Blueskycycling.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,035
    I had a similar experience. It kept the drivetrain clean, but I didn't feel it was all that effective as a lube. It wouldn't last a whole ride for me before the drivetrain started getting more audible. I started with a brand new, degreased chain and thouroughly soaked it in Squirt the first time.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: johnnyspoke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    951
    I do things a bit differently, but it works for me.

    I apply a drop per link to the inside of the chain between the crank and derailleur, and then BEFORE turning the cranks I use my thumb and forefinger and wipe up and down a couple of times to work it in. It's pretty thick so it seems if I don't do that a lot stays on the outside of the roller. Turn the cranks until I'm to the next section of "dry" chain and repeat. Usually about 4 times to get through the whole chain.

    Been doing that for a couple of years, no complaints.
    I'm looking forward to regretting this.......

  10. #10
    650b me
    Reputation: golden boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,457
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyspoke View Post
    I do things a bit differently, but it works for me.

    I apply a drop per link to the inside of the chain between the crank and derailleur, and then BEFORE turning the cranks I use my thumb and forefinger and wipe up and down a couple of times to work it in. It's pretty thick so it seems if I don't do that a lot stays on the outside of the roller. Turn the cranks until I'm to the next section of "dry" chain and repeat. Usually about 4 times to get through the whole chain.

    Been doing that for a couple of years, no complaints.
    Hey cool, somebody else as methodical as me. Yep, takes me 4 cycles to get through the whole chain. Usually I apply it per section, then just let it sit there while gravity does the work - maybe 5 minutes per cycle. If I'm impatient, I'll use my thumb and finger to work it in like johnnyspoke. Then backpedal the crank to the next section and repeat.

    The beauty of Squirt is NOT that it lasts any longer than any other lube. The beauty of it is that ain't nothing will keep your drivetrain cleaner and quieter. A clean drivetrain will last longer. My cassette is 6 years old! Even applied every other ride, a bottle will last me a year+. After years of using only Squirt, I bought an oil-based lube this summer. It was so awful, I gave it away after using it twice.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    4,464
    I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

    Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.

  12. #12
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

    Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.
    I was in SoCal, and am now in Vegas. Was using the Pink GnarLube for a bit, which was great but I'm too lazy to order it. Then I was using Dumonde Tech Light for a couple years almost and it was just fine, but it definitely was not a "clean" lube. You could just hear the grit in the chain after a ride and it never really went away without a proper cleaning.

    I'm going to give Squirt a bit more of a chance before I write it off, but so far it's not working out so great for me.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    503
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

    Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.
    This is one of the main reasons I'm so keen on Squirt -- it has dramatically reduced the amount of attention I have to give my drivetrain. Clean the chain thoroughly once , apply squirt and then never need to use degreaser etc. again. It's been amazing.

  14. #14
    Loud hubs save lives!
    Reputation: 43st's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    147
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

    Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.
    I think it's part of the reason why Squirt seems to clean so well. Crud builds up on the surface of the chain and sluffs off, rather than gathering between the chain links.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    4,464
    Quote Originally Posted by 43st View Post
    I think it's part of the reason why Squirt seems to clean so well. Crud builds up on the surface of the chain and sluffs off, rather than gathering between the chain links.
    No not really. What I have found is the residue left behind from the Squirt is tacky. That is what seems to cause the clumps on the chainring. I use Rock n Roll blue. That lube leves no residue and leaves no buildup on my chainring.

  16. #16
    Loud hubs save lives!
    Reputation: 43st's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    147
    Interesting.. Mine is certainly waxy to the touch. I can knock it off with a brush and sweep it up with a broom. Maybe it's the temperature difference between the Southern California and Canada? No idea.

  17. #17
    Professional Slacker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,810
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I was in SoCal, and am now in Vegas. Was using the Pink GnarLube for a bit, which was great but I'm too lazy to order it. Then I was using Dumonde Tech Light for a couple years almost and it was just fine, but it definitely was not a "clean" lube. You could just hear the grit in the chain after a ride and it never really went away without a proper cleaning.

    I'm going to give Squirt a bit more of a chance before I write it off, but so far it's not working out so great for me.
    I live in Vegas too. Dumonde is way too messy unless you're rinsing and lubing after every ride. It's expensive too, even compared to Squirt, which isn't exactly the cheapest either.

    Since switching to Squirt, I haven't heard any of the sounds of a chain that needs lube, and I'll typically go 60-80 miles between lubes...mostly because after a week's worth of riding my bike needs the dust knocked off of it. After every ride I wipe the chain off with a dry rag and it looks completely clean again.

    I clean the chain, put a drop on each pin, spin the cranks with a finger under the rollers for a few revolutions to really spread it out, and then let it sit overnight. Haven't heard any of that squeaking/straining noise that means that the chain is "dry."

    On a new chain it'll pull the old grease out of the chain for a while, which is where that waxy buildup comes from, after that there's very little and it's easily knocked off the cassette/chainrings/pullies with a rag or brush.

  18. #18
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    ^^^ I'm giving it a fair shake this time around . . . . perhaps it needs a bit of time (i.e., more than one application) to build up. But what really irks me is the mess it makes of the rings and cassette . . . this time, I applied it off the bike and let it dry. We'll see how long it lasts.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    ^^^ I'm giving it a fair shake this time around . . . . perhaps it needs a bit of time (i.e., more than one application) to build up. But what really irks me is the mess it makes of the rings and cassette . . . this time, I applied it off the bike and let it dry. We'll see how long it lasts.
    Off the bike is how I do it after a thorough cleaning. In addition, I warm the chain with a heat gun before applying Squirt. It helps to get fluid in the nooks and crannies. I think Campy uses a similar approach when prepping new chains for inventory. There might be a video somewhere. Can't exactly recall.

    Anyway, I think the initial application to a clean chain is key. After that, it's like any other lube that gets applied as needed, but it has to be applied the night before a ride. It's worth it for the longer interval. The gunk residue isn't that bad. As it clumps, it gets shot off the drivetrain, ejecting contaminants along with it.

  20. #20
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    So 17 mile ride this morning, and chain is squeaking - started before the ride even ended. Either I got a bunk bottle, or I'm an idiot and can't apply lube (highly possible).

    After soaking in Simple Green, rinsing, and repeating several times, the chain was clean. It was thoroughly dried and then a generous drop was placed on each roller and allowed to dry. The chain was flipped and again, healthy drop applied to each roller, allowed to dry over night and away I pedaled this morning . . . was dead silent for first 10 miles, then the squeaking started. The whole drivetrain only has ~100 miles on it, so its not a wear issue.

    I dunno . . . maybe my expectations are too high.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,035
    You have to work it in to the rollers after applying while it's still wet. Either spin the cranks for a bit before it dries, or work it in to each link with your fingers if the chain's not on the bike.

    That said, I also felt it wore off too quick for my tastes, especially with the slightest hint of moisture on a ride.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,736
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    So 17 mile ride this morning, and chain is squeaking - started before the ride even ended. Either I got a bunk bottle, or I'm an idiot and can't apply lube (highly possible).

    After soaking in Simple Green, rinsing, and repeating several times, the chain was clean. It was thoroughly dried and then a generous drop was placed on each roller and allowed to dry. The chain was flipped and again, healthy drop applied to each roller, allowed to dry over night and away I pedaled this morning . . . was dead silent for first 10 miles, then the squeaking started. The whole drivetrain only has ~100 miles on it, so its not a wear issue.

    I dunno . . . maybe my expectations are too high.
    Put a lot on, work it onto all cogs and rings, let dry over night and wipe excess off.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    203
    I too found that Squirt didn't work well for me. In a tropical climate like where I am, I suspect wax-type chain lubes aren't gonna work as advertised.

    I found my chain and chainring would be full of thick waxy gunk that wouldn't drop off as expected. The result was very disappointing, and yes, i applied it to a completely degreased and dried-off chain. I'm now using Maxima chain lube, and my chain is definitely cleaner after a ride than when i was using Squirt.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    469
    Don't forget to give the bottle a good shake before use...

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    630
    So most of you guys wipe it off? I find it too gunky on the casette but the bottle says to not wipe it off even if it seems excessive.

    Will try wiping it off on the next application if it will improve things

  26. #26
    Professional Slacker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,810
    If you put it on the night before, with a drop on each pin, there's no residue.

    Did a 42 miler at Cottonwood, wiped the chain, did another 12 a few days later..not a peep out of the chain.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1,794
    It sounds like Squirt works pretty well in dusty areas, like SoCal and Vegas, but how does it hold up after stream crossings? I switched to Rock N Roll Blue for awhile to have a cleaner lube, but it seemed to be gone after any stream crossings, so I went back to Dumonde Tech.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joss002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
    It sounds like Squirt works pretty well in dusty areas, like SoCal and Vegas, but how does it hold up after stream crossings? I switched to Rock N Roll Blue for awhile to have a cleaner lube, but it seemed to be gone after any stream crossings, so I went back to Dumonde Tech.
    Im in the UK so no extremes in the weather,temps around 25'c in summer and most of winter is around 0-10'c.
    Summer can be dusty,winter is generally just wet.

    Ive never had to cross any streams but plenty of deep long puddles.The trails I ride are very gritty and Ive rode 15-20 miles in heavy rain with the seat and grips feeling like they are covered in wet and dry sandpaper with the gritty gunk all over them and at the end of the ride the drive train is still quiet,shifting nice and very clean compared to any of the other lubes Ive used in the past.

    I was using Muc-Off ceramic wet and dry lubes,now shifting was always fine but it would sound gritty and after a ride be it dusty or wet I HAD to degrease the chain,it was covered in grey gunk.
    In the 12 months Ive been using Squirt Ive never had to degrease the chain,I just use a soft brush on the chain,cassette and chainring when I wash the bike,let it dry and re-lube.I have done a few rides in a row without the re-lube and it still stays quiet and shifts great.

    I really think the way to get Squirt to work as it should is make sure the drive train is spotless.
    Before I applied the 1st coat of Squirt to my new chain I put the chain in a tin with Gunk Engine Degreaser to soak,gave it a good scrub with a stiff brush,washed with hot soapy water and back in the tin with clean Gunk and washed it again,then sprayed with 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol to dry it out.The grease new chains come coated in is tough stuff.Also took the cassette and chainring off and cleaned those too.
    It sounds like alot of work but its been worth it for sure.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joss002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by mikkosan View Post
    So most of you guys wipe it off? I find it too gunky on the casette but the bottle says to not wipe it off even if it seems excessive.

    Will try wiping it off on the next application if it will improve things
    I never wipe it off.
    I just put on enough to run over each side of the pin and when Ive done the whole chain just give the crank a few slow turns to help it work in the rollers and let it dry overnight.If there is any overspill or excess on the chain it just breaks off when you ride.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,472
    Where did you buy the Squirt lube? I know there's counterfeit Squirt being sold. Created a thread on it a year back or so.

    As for wiping it off, I never bother. I usually apply the night before, or if I forget sometimes right before the ride when the bike is on the rack and dries during the drive to the trailhead. I usually reapply every 6-8 rides or so. I'm never going back to anything else as my drivetrain is silent with it. Before, it used to pick up ton of sand and dust.

  31. #31
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    One bottle was bought from an LBS. the other most recent application came from a sample given to me directly from squirt at SOC
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,736
    Yep, there is a lot of counterfeit Squirt out there. I get my Squirt straight from the source. Oh wait, that didn't sound quite right. You know what I mean.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joss002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    158

    Squirt application...

    I found these more detailed application instructions on the Squirt website that might help !

    http://www.squirtlube.com/squirtlube-application.pdf

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,412
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    When I degrease I use a solvent that was banned 40 years ago.
    Ha ha ha, not MEK by any chance?

    Just bought my very first bottle of Squirt, looking forward to trying it.

  35. #35
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    I'm still not giving up on it yet - the instructions posted noted a good point that I haven't seen mentioned here yet . . . this stuff needs to build up a bit to achieve maximum benefit. I've got two good applications so far and will give another here before riding tomorrow. Pretty sure I've got the real deal too, so not worried there.

    I'm motivated to get this stuff to work . . . dumonde tech (and everything else, really) is so messy, expensive, and just keeps the grit in the chain.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    636
    I think the chain needs to be on the bike, and you need to turn the cranks for a few minutes, and shift your gears, which will encourage the lube to get into the rollers and all sprockets.

    I think with squirt being so thick, that it isn't able to work its way into the rollers, when the chain is off the bike. Also, with dry lubes, they say that you get a better build up after multiple applications, so maybe don't degrease your chain after each ride - just wipe of the dust and reapply.

    Squirt is the first dry lube that I've ever been able to get along with. With all the others I've tried, the chain would be noticeably dry and squeaky after and hour of singletrack.

    I do lube after every ride, since I'll wipe the dust off to give me better chain and sprocket life. I haven't really tried going for multiple rides without lubing, I'm just happy that its still going good at the end of a long ride.
    Lapierre XR29ei, Chris King LB Carbon, XTR 1 X 10
    Planet X Dirty Harry
    Chiner 29er SS

  37. #37
    Professional Slacker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,810
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I'm still not giving up on it yet - the instructions posted noted a good point that I haven't seen mentioned here yet . . . this stuff needs to build up a bit to achieve maximum benefit. I've got two good applications so far and will give another here before riding tomorrow. Pretty sure I've got the real deal too, so not worried there.

    I'm motivated to get this stuff to work . . . dumonde tech (and everything else, really) is so messy, expensive, and just keeps the grit in the chain.
    If you do a lot of time on the super dusty trails like Bear's Best or the newer sections of SW ridge, there's just no way around cleaning and lubing after almost every ride.

    Just did 20 miles at Bear's and my entire bike is dirtier than after 42 at Cottonwood, and the moon dust gets shot right towards the chainring, so I was getting some dirty chain sound at the end of the ride. Part of the reason I don't like riding out there much.

    Cottonwood/Cowboy/Bootleg/Telephone Canyon are my normal trail choices.

  38. #38
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    Yup, did 30 today at cottonwood on a fresh application and it was squeaking by the end of the ride. The only thing I have not yet tried is applying ON the bike. That's the next step for me. One thing I will say is that the drivetrain is very clean.

    And telephone canyon? Where's that?
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  39. #39
    SS Pusher Man
    Reputation: mtnbikej's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Posts
    7,393
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I'm still not giving up on it yet - the instructions posted noted a good point that I haven't seen mentioned here yet . . . this stuff needs to build up a bit to achieve maximum benefit. I've got two good applications so far and will give another here before riding tomorrow. Pretty sure I've got the real deal too, so not worried there.

    I'm motivated to get this stuff to work . . . dumonde tech (and everything else, really) is so messy, expensive, and just keeps the grit in the chain.
    See I prefer Dumonde Tech....the heavy version. I get a week or about 150-175 miles out of each application. I'll brush it off after every other ride. The $14 bottle lasts me about a year, so it's not that expensive.
    Bicycles dont have motors or batteries.

    Ebikes are not bicycles

  40. #40
    Professional Slacker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,810
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Yup, did 30 today at cottonwood on a fresh application and it was squeaking by the end of the ride. The only thing I have not yet tried is applying ON the bike. That's the next step for me. One thing I will say is that the drivetrain is very clean.

    And telephone canyon? Where's that?
    Telephone Canyon is where Tin Can and Showgirl are.

    Are you running SRAM? I have one of each drivetrain and the SRAM is louder as the bike gets dirtier, but goes away once I wipe off (like with a dry rag) the chain and pulley wheels. Might be the narrow-wide pulley wheels. It's pretty annoying but nothing serious as far as I can tell.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    266
    007,

    What chain is it you are using? I just started using Shimano's HG900 chain when I installed my new XT M8000 drivetrain, and I have been having a hard time finding a lube that sticks to it at all. Shimano's new chains have a plating on them they call "Sil-Tec", which is a blend of PTFE and nickel, and my guess is that chain lubes (at least PTFE and wax based lubes) have a hard time sticking to this.

    I have used 10-spd Sil-Tec chains in the past, which seem to require somewhat more frequent lubing, but the HG900 chain has all parts of the chain except the pins Sil-Tec treated (lesser chains are just inner plates, or just inner/outer plates). Like you, Squirt didn't even come close to getting me through one ride after a number of attempts. Tri-Flow is barely better. Progold Xtreme has worked best so far, but in slightly wet conditions it won't get me through a ride. Currently experimenting with Rock and Roll Extreme.

    I suspect some of KMC's surface treatments may produce the same effects as this.

    Edit: This is not meant to harp on Shimano chains. The Sil-Tec treatment is outstanding. It is just a matter of finding a lube that can work well with it.
    Last edited by Matty F; 12-16-2015 at 06:06 AM.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    503
    This is really interesting. If it turns out to be a real issue, it'll be enough for me to stay away from the new Shimano chains. Shame I just installed one...

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spyghost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    974
    so what kinds of chain will squirt work with?

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,140
    After I clean my chain with simple green, I put some Phil wood oil in a ziplock bag and put the chain in the bag and work it in. I leave it overnight. Next day I pull out the chain. It's like a brand new chain at that point. I wipe off excess oil the install the chain. It'll run dead silent for at least a month maybe more.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    266
    Quote Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    This is really interesting. If it turns out to be a real issue, it'll be enough for me to stay away from the new Shimano chains. Shame I just installed one...
    Sorry, I should have clarified: The Sil-Tec coating is actually amazing. Even when bone dry it is a great lubricant. Get a standard Shimano chain and a Sil-Tec Shimano chain, strip them bone dry, and feel the difference in friction. Truly amazing. This surface treatment is definitely a greater asset than lube retention. But finding a lube that works well with it is surely a bonus.

  46. #46
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,215
    I'm running a KMC chain. I like the idea of Phil wood. Might have to give that a whirl if I give up on squirt.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mhelander's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    144
    I tried to stay SquirtLube but our long -20C and colder conditions were too tough for it to keep noise down.
    Installed new Campy 11s chain but had to distill its factory lubrication with Finish Line Teflon lube, now working better.

    Prior to swap applied fresh SquirtLube round and its awaiting summer now.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Cheers,
    -Mika

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joss002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by mhelander View Post
    I tried to stay SquirtLube but our long -20C and colder conditions were too tough for it to keep noise down.
    Installed new Campy 11s chain but had to distill its factory lubrication with Finish Line Teflon lube, now working better.

    Prior to swap applied fresh SquirtLube round and its awaiting summer now.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Squirt do a winter lube,Squirt Low Temp,I emailed them asking what kind of temp to use it in and they said below 0'c,so its not much use for me as we havent seen anything below 0'c this year so far.

  49. #49
    Professional Slacker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,810
    Quote Originally Posted by Matty F View Post
    007,

    What chain is it you are using? I just started using Shimano's HG900 chain when I installed my new XT M8000 drivetrain, and I have been having a hard time finding a lube that sticks to it at all. Shimano's new chains have a plating on them they call "Sil-Tec", which is a blend of PTFE and nickel, and my guess is that chain lubes (at least PTFE and wax based lubes) have a hard time sticking to this.
    I've been using, and I assume I'm not the only one, 10-speed 981 XTR chains that also have some parts with the Sil-Tec treatment. If the Sil-Tec in the M900 chains doesn't work well with Squirt, why would the 981?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spyghost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    974
    this is the hg801 chain after a trail ride (mid of damp and dry terrain).

    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mhelander's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by Joss002 View Post
    Squirt do a winter lube,Squirt Low Temp,I emailed them asking what kind of temp to use it in and they said below 0'c,so its not much use for me as we havent seen anything below 0'c this year so far.
    As my Campy chain factory grease started to fade away, started to use Squirt low temp. Being lazy and we've got still snowy conditions didn't wash chain at all, relying on summer Squirt behavior to push oil & grime to surface with couple of tree-lubing.

    So far good, chain is cleaner, little less willing to free spin below freezing and not too dirty. We've got warmer temps so no experiences yet in real winter conditions.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Cheers,
    -Mika

Similar Threads

  1. Squirt vs Chain-L vs Rock N Roll?
    By Alias530 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 08-25-2015, 11:52 AM
  2. Fake squirt lube.
    By Learux in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 06-02-2014, 09:46 PM
  3. Squirt Chain Lube ...
    By Rainman in forum Ibis
    Replies: 100
    Last Post: 09-15-2013, 03:43 PM
  4. Factory chainlube rocks! What is it?
    By abelfonseca in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 06-18-2012, 12:49 PM
  5. Recomend me a good chainlube for PNW weather
    By bacoes in forum Commuting
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 10-26-2011, 12:09 AM

Members who have read this thread: 15

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.