Results 1 to 30 of 30
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup

    I thought I would share as I have already gone through two iterations for my build. This is fitted to a 2015 XL Nomad CC.

    I would recommend measuring several times before making the final decision on e-tube lengths.

    Build 1 - Sep 2015 (using external battery case mounted to water bottle tabs):

    I used the following (from the grip to the rear of the frame):

    SW-M9050R Firebolt Right Shifter
    EW-SD50L 200mm e-tube
    SC-M9050 Digital Display Unit
    EW-SD50L 950mm e-tube
    SM-BTC1 External Battery Case with SM-BTR2A (Internal Battery)
    EW-SD50L 750mm e-tube
    RD-M9050GS Rear Derailleur

    The photos can be seen here: http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/ne...l#post12235677

    I have ridden it for about four weeks and maybe 500 km of riding. A lot of shifting as I am on the return from ACL surgery so I cannot put too much power through my left knee at the moment. I finally used enough battery to drop to the 80% mark! So any doubts about charging are basically a bit misguided.

    I did not like the external battery case as it lifted my bottle cage and made it hard to fit a water bottle between the frame and the shock so I thought about other ways of routing the cabling and locating the battery.

    Build 2 - Nov 2015 (using internal battery mounted in the fork steerer tube).

    I bought the Shimano PRAC0085 seat post internal mount. http://www.pro-bikegear.com/en-gb/ca...battery-holder

    I have now used the following bits of kit:

    SW-M9050R Firebolt Right Shifter
    EW-SD50L 250mm e-tube
    SC-M9050 Digital Display Unit
    EW-SD50L 350mm e-tube
    SM-PRAC0085 Pro Internal Battery Mount & SM-BTR2A (Internal Battery)
    EW-SD50L 950mm e-tube
    SM-EWW01 Wireless Transmitter (mounted to down tube near bottom bracket)
    EW-SD50L 750mm e-tube
    RD-M9050GS Rear Derailleur

    I deceided that the externally routed cables are better protected with Shimano's well designed external covers (ECWC2 E-tube Cover Set).

    The routing along the handle bar is slightly neater with the longer e-tube curved back along the shifter mount and fixed to the underside of the bar with a short ECWC2 E-tube Cover.

    I guessimated a 400 mm e-tube for the bottom of the steerer mounted battery to the Digital Display but I only need a 350 mm e-tube.

    Using the SM-EWW01 Wireless Transmitter as a junction (it was cheaper than the actual junction and as a bonus one can send gear use data to a GPS head unit like the Edge 520 or 810), but it means I do not need as long an e-tube from the rear derailleur so I will switch it out to a 650 mm or 700 mm e-tube then cover it with ECWC2 E-tube Cover to protect it. I can also probably install a shorter 900mm e-tube from the Digital display to the junction.

    BTW the EWW01 is tiny, far smaller than the web images imply (you can see it just next to the bottle cage), and great way to connect the front of the bike to the RD as the longest e-tube is 1400 mm so will not reach all the way.

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-di2-eww01-transmitter.jpgShimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-img_9183.jpg

    Sealed the steerer area with old ESI grip material:

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-img_9194.jpg

    I charged it fully last night and it works seemlessly.

    I'll post photos of the ghetto rig I used to install it in the steerer tube and protect it later.
    Last edited by AndrewBikeGuide; 12-05-2015 at 03:13 PM.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,052
    If running a 1x do you need SC-M9050 Digital Display Unit? Shifter with etube into battery (located in headtube).

    I was under the impression that if a bike had the water cage mounted battery/holder that it could be: shifter straight to battery and then an etube to the rear D. The battery/holder serves as the junction box and recharger.

    If a frame did not have the bottle vs shock issues you had, and wanted to run a 2x11 di2, that external battery could serve as the junction for the rear d and front D before leading up to the digital display unit and ultimately the right firebolt?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    If running a 1x do you need SC-M9050 Digital Display Unit? Shifter with etube into battery (located in headtube).

    I was under the impression that if a bike had the water cage mounted battery/holder that it could be: shifter straight to battery and then an etube to the rear D. The battery/holder serves as the junction box and recharger.

    If a frame did not have the bottle vs shock issues you had, and wanted to run a 2x11 di2, that external battery could serve as the junction for the rear d and front D before leading up to the digital display unit and ultimately the right firebolt?
    The overall set up is a lot cleaner without the external battery case as well. The battery case does have five ports so there is lots of capacity but there is no feature to plug into it to charge the battery. The external battery case is also quite an expensive component so it is nice to not need one but if you want one cheap please PM me ;-).

    You need some kind of recharge point so either the Digital Display

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-shimano-xtr-m9050-di2-new-synchronized-shifting-electornic-sc-m9050_std_01.jpg

    or a Junction A (three port)

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-shimano_duraace_9070_junction_3.jpg

    or B (five port) 'box'.

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-shimano-dura-ace-di2-sm-ew90-b-5-port-time-trial-junction-ismew90b.jpg


    The Digital Display is the neater solution (I think) as it tucks in next to the stem and is also more useful for tuning the rear derailleur plus it is pretty cool to see what gear I am in (momentarily) and also see the battery level (not that this is a huge issue as it seems to last for 3-4 months based on current usage).
    Last edited by AndrewBikeGuide; 11-18-2015 at 11:23 PM.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    I forgot about Build Three: I moved the SM-EWW01 Wireless Transmitter in behind the top chain guide and fixed it to the frame with some 3M dual sided moulding tape.

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-d-fly-transmitter-mod-3.jpg

    You can see the ECWC2 E-tube Cover pieces that I have used to keep the e-tube tidy and protected in the photo. I have also used a long piece of it on the seat stay and a small piece where it runs to the rear derailleur.

    (I have left the o-ring in place whilst it cures but will eventually remove it to minimise visual impact and also a potential mud accumulation spot at the rear of the seat tube).
    Last edited by AndrewBikeGuide; 12-05-2015 at 06:39 PM.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,052
    But the wireless transmitter is not necessary, right? Edit. Just read this, again: BTW the EWW01 is tiny, far smaller than the web images imply (you can see it just next to the bottle cage), and great way to connect the front of the bike to the RD as the longest e-tube is 1400 mm so will not reach all the way.

    On your 2x di2 build what will you do with the front derailleur and its ewire? How will you route/plug it?

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    I forgot about Build Three: I moved the SM-EWW01 Wireless Transmitter in behind the top chain guide and fixed it to the frame with some 3M dual sided moulding tape.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	D-Fly transmitter Mod 3.jpg 
Views:	1241 
Size:	85.2 KB 
ID:	1029891

    You can see the ECWC2 E-tube Cover pieces that I have used to keep the e-tube tidy and protected in the photo. I have also used a long piece of it on the seat stay and a small piece where it runs to the rear derailleur.

    (I have left the o-ring in place whilst it cures but will eventually remove it to minimise visual impact and also a potential mud accumulation spot at the rear of the seat tube).

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    But the wireless transmitter is not necessary, right? Edit. Just read this, again: BTW the EWW01 is tiny, far smaller than the web images imply (you can see it just next to the bottle cage), and great way to connect the front of the bike to the RD as the longest e-tube is 1400 mm so will not reach all the way.

    On your 2x di2 build what will you do with the front derailleur and its ewire? How will you route/plug it?
    The 2 x 11 Di2 build will be on a bike designed for Di2 so I imagine that the battery port will be through the bottom of the BB/ Downtube area into the bottom of the seat tube like Pivot do it. Just deciding on whether it is BMC, Pivot or Orbea at this stage with BMC looking like the winner at the moment if I go with 29" wheels. The large opening also gives room to organise the junction box and tie e-tubes out of the way so they are not tapping against the inside of the frame when you are riding.

    If I still decide that the steerer tube is still the best location for the battery I will use a JC-41 Junction (which are tiny as well, not as tiny as the EWW01 but way smaller than the web images imply)

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-shimano-jc-41-junction.jpg

    and run the e-tube from the Digital display into it on up side with a blanking plug in the other port and then run both derailleur e-tubes out the down side. Preferably routed internally and held to the inside of the frame with some two sided 3M molding tape (used for car body work so pretty strong). If external I will hide it somewhere protected and discrete like I have for this 1 x Di2 build and choose e-tube lengths to suit.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,069
    I want to run 2 shifters.

    So I would run 2 shifters to the display, then one from the display to the battery, then another one from the display to the rear junction ? Does the display have 4 ports ?

    or would I run 2 shifters and a battery wire to the display, and then run a wire from the battery back to the rear junction (does the battery have two ports ) ?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    @Preston67 I am assuming that you are running 2 x 11 rather than 1 x 11?

    Re digital display: Three ports, usual set up is LH shifter (in), junction (out)/ RH shifter (in); if that makes sense.

    Depending on internal or external routing and battery style the battery out e-tube goes from the digital display to the junction box you are using (the external battery case comes with its own built in five port junction box & two blanking plugs).

    For example the simplest & lightest set up for 2 x 11 would be:

    LH Shifter
    E-tube (shifter to digi display)
    Digital Display
    E-tube (digi display to junction box)
    E-tube (shifter to digi display)
    RH shifter

    Junction box (either built in with external battery case or JC-41 (this has four ports so can take an e-tube from the battery, e-tube from the digital display and then send an e-tube to the front derailleur and one to the rear derailleur).

    E-tube to battery
    Battery

    E-tube to front derailleur
    Front derailleur

    E-tube to rear deraileur
    Rear derailleur

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-xtr-di2-external-battery-2x11.jpg

    If you place the battery internally then you need some kind of Junction box and the JC-41 is the smallest. lightest and cheapest. With the battery located somewhere near the BB or seat post/ seat tube you should be able to use e-tubes in the right length without requiring any further junction boxes to make the connections.

    This is a diagram of the battery & junction box with a 1 x set up but you can the idea from it:

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-di2-setup-hex-internal-routing.jpg

    Note you need a PC to tune the system to your preferences with 2 x or 3 x and you only have the choice of "manual" in 1 x.

    You only need the digital display to index the front and rear derailleurs which was the simplest rear derailleur set up I have ever experienced.

    There is a really good pdf that has diagrams and parts lists etc but I don't know how to attach it and I cannot find it on the web. PM me and I will email it to you.
    Last edited by AndrewBikeGuide; 12-05-2015 at 06:57 PM. Reason: accuracy
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,069
    Super great info. Yes, 2*11.

    Yeah I was trying to figure out a clean way to put it in the steer tube, but now I can see I would also need to fit a junction box in there. I'm not so inclined to put in the seat tube as I don't think I can fit 3 wires and a cable out of my dropper post inlet port. Unless I get one of those new e-dropper posts hmmm.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Hey Preston67 not sure how many entry/ exit points there are on your frame - cancel that, looked at Pinkbike review. Runs on the underside of the downtube (which is a total design fail in my book) so your could run the e-tubes externally where ever you like really using the Di2 SM-ECWC2 Cover Set (or perhaps two or three of these sets).

    Depending on where you live you might also speak to a carbon repair place (that specialise in bike frames) and see about having ports drilled where you need them. You are prob out of warranty on your frame by now anyway so it could be an option.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,069
    I'm not willing to drill holes in the frame just to accomodate internal setup. I'd rather just use the external holder if I can't fit stuff in. But your posts and cable measurements have been a big help thanks.

    Two more questions - I don't need to buy the battery charger right? I can just plug a mini-usb into the display ? (or does it come with the appropriate connector).
    And, I also don't need any more equipment to do the basic programming, just again plug a usb from the PC into the display mini-usb ?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    SM-BCR2 to charge it through the Digital Display (as even with the external case it is the only "entry point" to the system). It is not mini-usb into the display but some proprietary plug shape (well it might not be proprietary but I have not seen one that shape before).

    It is not a normal mini-USB to connect to this "box". I used an old Nokia charge lead, no idea what connection standard it is.

    SM-PCE1 to program it (assuming that you have a laptop or can run windows on your mac). I am not sure if you can charge through this.

    Give me some time and I'll take some more photos and load them up.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Right the update:

    I found this very useful link:

    New Dura Ace Di2 Tech - Slowtwitch.com

    So short story is that you can do firmware updates and change settings with the SM-BCR2 as well as charge the battery (but not at the same time, one is connect to laptop and one is connect to USB adaptor, I use my iPhone plug) but CANNOT run the diagnostic software.

    You CANNOT charge with battery with the SM-PCE1 but you can run the diagnostic software, as well as change functions, program gearing etc.

    So most users can probably get away with having the SM-BCR2 (wish I knew that before I bought the SM-PCE1 as well).

    SM-PCE1

    The SM-PCE1 looks like this:

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-sm-pce1-inc-box.jpg

    and has this plug that comes from the box with an e-tube connector on the other end.

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-sm-pce1-plug.jpg

    SM-BCR2

    The SM-BCR2 looks like this:

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-sm-bcr1-plug.jpg

    That little black plug is the connector that inserts into the Digital Display or the Junction A or B boxes.

    The SM-BCR2 requires you to have a USB - micro USB lead (I had no idea that this even existed and searched through my random electronic lead box until I found an old Nokia charger lead that fit). It looks like this:

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-sm-bcr1-showing-micro-usb-slot.jpgShimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-sm-bcr1-micro-usb.jpg

    So to program your Di2 your electronics chain will be:

    Laptop running e-tube project software
    USB-Micro USB lead (does not come with the SM-BCR2)
    SM-BCR2
    Digital Display/ Junction A or B

    To charge your battery the electronics chain will be:

    USB wall charger (eg iPhone plug)
    USB-Micro USB lead (does not come with the SM-BCR2)
    SM-BCR2
    Digital Display/ Junction A or B

    Finally as you mentioned runnning e-tubes externally I took a photo of the cover kit:

    Shimano XTR Di2 1 x 11 setup-sm-ewc2-di2-e-tube-covers.jpg

    The kit includes 3 long strips and 3 short strips so a 2 x 11 full external routing will probably need two kits.

    The e-tubes definitely look more sensitive to breaking than a cable outer (this is a theory only as I have not broken one but neither have I had a full summer speed total bail crash since fitting Di2 so I do't know yet) so use a routing that makes sense from a protection point of view rather than the smoothest shifting route point of view. It does not matter how weird the e-tube routing is as there are no moving parts, ghost shifting or cable friction to worry about. Just think protection from rocks and falls (and asthetics if you can).
    Last edited by AndrewBikeGuide; 12-05-2015 at 02:06 PM. Reason: accuracy
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kingkongsfinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    54
    Thread resurrection and hi-jack.

    Some help needed please as not much info on the interweb above these forks and lock out.

    I have a Trek Superfly (Ex Team Issue) with the above electronic lock out fork (quite rare and not available here in the UK) with external Di2 battery.

    I want to convert this to a Di2 battery that is mounted in the fork steerer.

    This is the bike and fork as it is at the moment....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeG4Hkr14vY

    I think these are the parts I need to convert this, can anyone confirm if I fit these parts it will work? Cheers Jason.

    Parts I think I need...

    http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-int ... 68464.html
    http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-sm- ... 75652.html
    PRO Di2 SM-BTR2 Battery Holder for installing battery in fork steerer PRAC0085 | eBay ... EBIDX%3AIT

    I have bought the battery holder and before I buy the other two listed will it all be compatible. The battery holder looks like you install from the top of the steerer and it has tabs that rest on the top of the fork steerer to stop it slipping down but then that leaves no where for the starnut to be refitted? HELP please.
    Trek Top Fuel - Santa Cruz Blur -Chinese FLYXII 29er

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by kingkongsfinger View Post
    Thread resurrection and hi-jack.

    Some help needed please as not much info on the interweb above these forks and lock out.

    I have a Trek Superfly (Ex Team Issue) with the above electronic lock out fork (quite rare and not available here in the UK) with external Di2 battery.

    I want to convert this to a Di2 battery that is mounted in the fork steerer.

    This is the bike and fork as it is at the moment....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeG4Hkr14vY

    I think these are the parts I need to convert this, can anyone confirm if I fit these parts it will work? Cheers Jason.

    Parts I think I need...

    http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-int ... 68464.html
    http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-sm- ... 75652.html
    PRO Di2 SM-BTR2 Battery Holder for installing battery in fork steerer PRAC0085 | eBay ... EBIDX%3AIT

    I have bought the battery holder and before I buy the other two listed will it all be compatible. The battery holder looks like you install from the top of the steerer and it has tabs that rest on the top of the fork steerer to stop it slipping down but then that leaves no where for the starnut to be refitted? HELP please.
    Neither of those Merlin links work (error 404/ page not available) so we cannot see what parts you are talking about.

    I cannot see where I posted this on MTBR earlier but here is the link to my blog that has it: https://bikeandskiblog.wordpress.com...-fork-steerer/

    I tapped the battery holder into the steerer with a wooden dowel. I measured enough clearance to allow insertion of a normal star nut. I insert the e-tube from the Digital Display to the battery through a silicon plug (to keep the weather out) from the bottom of the steerer tube. It is working well for me.

    If the description and photos do not make any sense then PM me and I'll help you through it.

    If you are running an electronic lock out on your fork you might need to run a JC-41 junction box to get the fourth e-tube connection (there are only three from the digital display so my set up is used: shifter(R); e-tube to rear of bike; battery).

    This Shimano Star nut: http://www.pro-bikegear.com/en-gb/ca...-adjust-system

    will allow you to run the e-tube out the top of the stem. Depending on how neat you want your set up the Tharsis Di2 stem and bar is a neat way to go but the trail versions are not available commercially yet (pro athletes only at the moment) so you are limited to a pretty narrow flat bar and a really XC stem (which might actually suit your bike set up).
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kingkongsfinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    54
    That is superb information and very quick.
    These are the parts I want to order
    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano...ger-68464.html
    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano...box-75653.html

    I want the battery in the steerer so the cable comes out of the bottom and into a Shimano SM-EW90-A 3 Port Di2 Junction Box fixed under stem.

    One question. Are all the cables from the beginning of Di2 the same connectors?
    Trek Top Fuel - Santa Cruz Blur -Chinese FLYXII 29er

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Firstly are you going to run a left hand shifter ebecause if you are you don't have enough e-tube ports (you would need a Junction B -five port under your stem).

    If you are only running a RH shifter and using 1 x 11 or synchro for 2 x 11 then you have just enough ports.

    You could make your set up slightly neater by using a JC-41 hidden inside the bottom of the steerer tube with an e-tube running to the digital display and another short (150mm) running to the top of your fork.

    As long as all your e-tubes are the modern format. There is an older model for the original road Di2 that has a different connector.

    Make sure all your e-tubes are EW-SD50L models. I did lots of measuring with a piece of string before I ordered the lengths that I needed and even then I was out on on a couple of them as once I had them in hand I could create more efficient (crash resistant) routings.

    I also used heat shrink tubing to keep them all neat and tidy. There is also the fishing line and fly tieing glue route that Emily Batty's mechanic uses (he does not like zip ties) which is super neat.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kingkongsfinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    54
    No Di2 shifters, all mechanical. I just have a electric lock out on my Fox iCD forks with an external battery mounted below the bottle cage.

    I want an internal fork steerer mounted battery purely for aesthetics, so all I need is a Shimano SM-EW90-A 3 Port Di2 Junction Box fixed under stem, PRO Di2 Battery Holder Shimano SM-BTR2 For Fork Steerer Including Tool PRAC0085, shorter cable and battery/charger, I think :-)

    This video shows how it is at the moment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeG4Hkr14vY
    Trek Top Fuel - Santa Cruz Blur -Chinese FLYXII 29er

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    480
    Yep that will work. Follow the mounting instructions for the internal mount and you will never have it drop out of the bottom of the steerer. I used an old ESI grip for my packing and sealing foam but a set of helmet fit pads or anything like that you have lying around will work just as well.

    One mod/ idea I have seen is using a hand basin plug as a water proof bung in the bottom of the steerer.
    XTR Di2
    2018 Norco Sight C9.1
    2018 Norco Range C9.1
    #weareone #stagescycling #9point8ca #rideshimano #pocsports

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kingkongsfinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    54
    Brilliant, thanks.
    Trek Top Fuel - Santa Cruz Blur -Chinese FLYXII 29er

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    536

    Thread resurrection and hi-jack. again.

    it has been awhile since ive been around(im trying to stay out of trouble) and i think it has been long enough that i am now entertaining thoughts of upgrading my drivetrain.

    i am thinking of a 1x11 XT Di2 setup. although this thread is for an XTR setup id imagine itll be closely identical.

    one challenge i have is my bike frame. its a 2012 TREAK SUPEFLY AL ELITE and it has no internal wire routing capabilities so obviously id have to take the EXTERNAL setup route.

    my said bike has been through a lot of upgrades, notable of which is a Lefty fork and a 1x11 XT setup. so i am thinking i should be able to do away in getting a cassette, and chain ring for the time being.

    what i have in mind that i would need are probably the following.
    SHIFT SWITCH SW-M8050
    SYSTEM INFORMATION DISPLAY SC-MT800
    EXTERNAL BATTERY SM-BTR1
    BATTERY CHARGER SM-BCR1
    CHARGER CORD SM-BCC1(i can probably get this from my junk pile)
    EXTERNAL WIRE ROUTING BM-DN100-L
    ELECTRIC WIRE EW-SD50 (various lengths)
    ELECTRIC WIRE COVER SM-EWC2
    BOTTLE CAGE MOUNT ADAPTER SM-BA01
    JUNCTION B 4PORT(*) SM-JC40
    REAR DERAILLEUR(SHIMANO SHADOW RD+ RD-M8050-GS

    my questions would be;
    - are the above parts just about what i need? did i miss anything?
    - connection wise, do i have it right when i connect
    the SHIFTER >> DISPLAY >> JUNCTION B,
    and the BATTERY >> JUNCTION B,
    then the DERAILLEUR >> JUNCTION B

    any help would greatly appreciated. although i think getting a reply would probably be a long shot.

    again my thanks for whoever is out there with experience on a Di2 1X11 upgrade.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    2,432
    They've come out with a wireless module which complicates things a little more because it only works with certain parts.
    I haven't found any website which makes putting these things together easy.
    Don't know many with a really clean install without going with the special stem and bar.

    I like my mechanical 1x11 and am interested in a di2 1x11 but the ROI isn't enough to spend time trying to understand it.
    I'd be interested if the install/requirements info was made easier to understand.
    Currently I'm looking at gaining better shifting performance at a very high price and some added weight.

    Having said that, the information provided by the OP is excellent but may not apply for the newer Di2 pcs that are available in 2017.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DethWshBkr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    2,137
    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    They've come out with a wireless module which complicates things a little more because it only works with certain parts.
    I haven't found any website which makes putting these things together easy.
    Don't know many with a really clean install without going with the special stem and bar.

    I like my mechanical 1x11 and am interested in a di2 1x11 but the ROI isn't enough to spend time trying to understand it.
    I'd be interested if the install/requirements info was made easier to understand.
    Currently I'm looking at gaining better shifting performance at a very high price and some added weight.

    Having said that, the information provided by the OP is excellent but may not apply for the newer Di2 pcs that are available in 2017.
    Unless I missed something, the ONLY "Wireless" thing Shimano has is a wireless ability to setup and change settings. Honestly, seems pointless to me, since you still have to plug into the system to charge the battery, why not just plug it in to make changes (which isn't something you do every day).

    The Di2 really isn't that complicated, it just seems that way. Depending on your setup, and what you're willing to wait for, you don't really need to spend much at all.

    I am converting a 1x bike to Di2 right now.

    So far, It has cost $245 to convert the bike. I just need the rear derailleur. So, I'm looking at a cost of $500 to make a bike 1x XT Di2, if I buy a derailleur right now.
    "Go soothingly in the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon"

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    2,432
    When you're done can u post the BOM? 500 isnt that bad. Thx

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bigdrunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,223
    After working the cyber Monday sales hard I was able to buy all the stuff needed for an XT x1 setup for less than $500.

    XT rd- $200 from Performance bike
    MT 800 - $65 from Jenson
    Shifter - $40 from Jenson
    Junction B - $21 from Jenson
    Battery - $105 from Cambria Bike
    Wires - $40 from Jenson. I had a few spare wires I am using from my road bike

    Layer in Active Junky rebate for more savings!

    Deals all still look to be good today

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    7,867
    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    They've come out with a wireless module which complicates things a little more because it only works with certain parts.
    I haven't found any website which makes putting these things together easy.
    Don't know many with a really clean install without going with the special stem and bar.

    I like my mechanical 1x11 and am interested in a di2 1x11 but the ROI isn't enough to spend time trying to understand it.
    I'd be interested if the install/requirements info was made easier to understand.
    Currently I'm looking at gaining better shifting performance at a very high price and some added weight.

    Having said that, the information provided by the OP is excellent but may not apply for the newer Di2 pcs that are available in 2017.
    I did buy the bars, but I'm using a Thomson Stem that I drill into the side of.

    The do make a cover if you use normal bars to clean up the look a little.

    Shimano Di2 SM-ECWC2 E-Tube Cover Set | Jenson USA
    OG Ripley v2

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,482

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    2,432
    If you use the bluetooth wireless module with the Garmin, do u still need the display unit? If not, how do you charge the battery or reset the derailleur if its stuck?



    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,482
    I have an EW-90A 3 port junction on the bottom of my stem that has a charging port and config (trim) button. I can charge through this junction, trim my derailleur using the button on it, I display my gears on my Garmin and I can make other setup changes using the app on my iPhone.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,069
    Wow those are some crazy prices on Di2. I've been curious for awhile especially since I still run an FD (for range) but now I am holding out to see if Shimano is really coming out with a 12 speed. I hate to go 1* and lose my range but the frame options available to me are shrinking so rapidly I'll have to compromise sooner or later. But if I have to go 12 speed I'd rather do it with Shimano.

Similar Threads

  1. shimano XT setup - where pads hit the rotors
    By BCsaltchucker in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-23-2015, 07:58 PM
  2. Help with Shimano 2x11 setup
    By Alcaid in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-30-2015, 01:31 PM
  3. Shimano Zee rear der. in a 2x setup?
    By Blatant in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-10-2013, 11:30 AM
  4. Shimano XTR 985 - Anyone try 40/30t setup?
    By tiflow_21 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-04-2013, 09:07 AM
  5. 1x9 setup with Shimano Saint chainring
    By nampla in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-25-2012, 09:41 AM

Members who have read this thread: 6

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.