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  1. #1
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    Noisy brand new Eagle drivetrain

    I was having issues with a noisy drivetrain that had over 2000 miles on it so I decided to replace all the components (chain, rear derailleur, cassette, front chain ring). While I was at it I made slight adjustment to correct derailleur hanger which was only about 4mm out of alignment.

    Anyways so I get everything on and dial in the shifting but still get this noise in all gears.
    I don't understand what it could be, I've visually checked to make sure nothing is hitting the derailleur cage and the wheel / cassette is silent when i rotate it by hand with no chain on.

    On the trail i get 2-3 quick consistent clicks when pedaling under load but otherwise the shifting is perfect and the chain doesn't jump around.

    Links to a couple videos,
    one in 50t gear
    https://youtu.be/eKeGJ_lW3wI

    and one in 10th gear.
    https://youtu.be/Nc92KyxEXnc

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated I'm going crazy trying to solve this. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    set B-Gap with tool?

    bent derailleur cage? (happens to GX RD a lot)

  3. #3
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    4mm out on a hanger is huge. Did you replace it? If not, Id bet its bent again.

    Otherwise, Eagle is super-sensitive to B gap, which should be dialed in at sag.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    4mm out on a hanger is huge. Did you replace it? If not, Id bet its bent again.

    IME derailleur hangers are often off that far (or further) even on new bikes, and not necessarily because the hanger is bent. I sure wouldn't worry about realigning it and riding it.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  5. #5
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    Might be the how the chain is engaging the ring due to the chain line in the big cog. Turn the crank slowly and look at how smoothly the chain engages the ring. If that's what's going on, it should go away once the ring is worn in a little.
    Do the math.

  6. #6
    Never trust a fart
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    Noise coming from the RD as the chain rotates since it's only in the 50 and 10 tooth?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagicShite View Post
    set B-Gap with tool?

    bent derailleur cage? (happens to GX RD a lot)
    I have used the tool but will try again and have a friend help me so I can set it under sag. I'm interested to see how much difference the sag makes using the tool.

    This is a brand new rear derailleur as my old one had definitely been dinged up.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc View Post
    Noise coming from the RD as the chain rotates since it's only in the 50 and 10 tooth?
    The sounds are in every gear but more pronounced in the lower and higher gears.

    I hear 2 distinct noises. First is from the lower jockey wheel, it's just loud. When the chain is off the wheel it's dead quiet and spins freely.

    Second sound is the more of a metallic noise coming from where the chain sits on the cassette. Again when chain is off and I rotate cassette by hand its dead silent.

    It's almost like there is too much friction in the drivetrain causing parts to stress making the noise. I measured the new chain links against the old one, but then again my old chain was loud as well. Not sure if that could be causing these issues.

  9. #9
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    How are the other components? BB bearings, hub bearings, freehub bearing? You said you were getting noise previously, so you did replace a good portion of the items that "can" cause noise, but judging from those two videos and the somewhat inconsistent nature of the noises, I bet you have more items/noises to chase.
    Good luck.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Rides Bikes View Post
    How are the other components? BB bearings, hub bearings, freehub bearing? You said you were getting noise previously, so you did replace a good portion of the items that "can" cause noise, but judging from those two videos and the somewhat inconsistent nature of the noises, I bet you have more items/noises to chase.
    Good luck.
    Hi Jason, thanks for the reply. Would the bearings act different with stress? Reason I ask is that everything runs smoothly (cassette, cranks, freehub) without the chain on. I did take the freehub apart about a month ago when I upgraded from 3 to 6 pawls. I'll take the freehub apart again and give a good clean and regreasing.

  11. #11
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    Definitely a possibility. I've had bottom bracket bearings (just as an example) feel fine while assembling a bike and in the stand and then as soon as I take it for a ride "crunch crunch crunch".
    The tension of the chain/clutch on the derailleur would be a factor, maybe not a huge one, but a possibility.
    Deflated - buy parts to sell parts to buy more parts.. bikes are my drug of choice

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  12. #12
    Gnar? I didn't see it...
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    When trying to diagnose, I would pull my hub apart and look at the free wheel assembly (if nothing else has worked).


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  13. #13
    Gnar? I didn't see it...
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    Quote Originally Posted by JT0089 View Post
    I'm interested to see how much difference the sag makes using the tool.
    For what it's worth, my shop assembled my bike for me and of course, like a kid, I hopped on and rode for about a month with shifting problems. I set the sag right and did the B-gap tool and it solved all the problems. Agree with the other posters here - the B-gap needs to be set with the sag in place.

  14. #14
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    Next time you can use a ratchet strap to sag the bike for adjustment without needing any assistance

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    Next time you can use a ratchet strap to sag the bike for adjustment without needing any assistance
    This is what I did.
    As others have said, b gap needs to be set precisely - and definitely under sag. Make sure all the teeth are aligned precisely on the markings on the tool.
    I've found there's less margin for error on b gab and cable tension than any other drivetrain I've used (that said, once it's dialed in Eagle shifts AMAZING).
    I initially had some of this clicking noise but only in the 42t. As someone else mentioned, I found once the teeth wore in a bit this went away.

  16. #16
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    I've chased this same noise plus a shifting issue on my bike a couple of times. One was a bent hanger and easy to find. The second round was a rear hub issue. If the rear hub bearing preload isn't right, and especially if the freehub body lockring isn't snugged down fully, the cassette will not stay centered side to side. Eagle is sensitive to minor little things like this, so if one of those two adjustments is off you get that noise like the chain is trying to engage another cog. "Tick tick tick".

    Mine just started doing it again yesterday, but I'm about 99% certain I clipped a rock with my rear derailleur.

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  17. #17
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    is the chain and the narrow wide teeth set correctly? Could be something as simple as that.
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  18. #18
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    I did a test ride this weekend and did not have any noise for the first 6 miles (all uphill). Then on the way down when I start pedaling hard the noises start resurfacing until it was back to being loud as before.

    The night before I had taken the rear cassette off, cleaned and regreased. I did not have a torque wrench at the time so just tightened by hand. (I have since borrowed a torque wrench and found out it was not tight enough). I'm going to do a test ride tomorrow as I think something is working its way loose.

  19. #19
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    Clint, the "tick tick tick" is the same noise I am getting. I will look online to see how to set the preload on my rear hub. When I installed my new cassette I did notice there is some play along the axle ~1mm, just enough to notice and hear it. However once I put the wheel in the frame and tightened the thru axle it keeps the cassette snug. I still worry though if there should be any play even without the wheel in the frame.

  20. #20
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    1mm of play is nothing, I wouldn't worry about it.

  21. #21
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    To clarify, on mine it's the drive side lockring that keeps working loose - the one that secures the freehub body to the hub.

    I had the shop check the rear hanger, and sure enough it was bent. I clipped a rock in St George with it. I now have an alignment gauge on my Amazon wishlist.

    However, when I pulled the rear wheel to have a look that infernal lockring was loose again. That's twice now. The ring and the axle are both light alloy, so I don't dare gorilla torque it to actually get some locking force. I do tighten it with a cone wench as tight as I think it should go, though. Next time I service the rear hub, I'm going to put a drop of lightweight Loctite on it.
    Quote Originally Posted by JT0089 View Post
    Clint, the "tick tick tick" is the same noise I am getting. I will look online to see how to set the preload on my rear hub. When I installed my new cassette I did notice there is some play along the axle ~1mm, just enough to notice and hear it. However once I put the wheel in the frame and tightened the thru axle it keeps the cassette snug. I still worry though if there should be any play even without the wheel in the frame.
    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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