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  1. #1
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well homemade 1by difficulties

    Hi Guys. Sorry for my english if I will make any mistakes.
    I have a 2-years-old Scott Aspect 710, originally 3*10, upgraded to 1by set-up, but it is more like a 1*8… The chain line is so bad, that it drops 3-4 cogs from the biggest while riding and drops 1-2 from the 2nd biggest if I pedal backwards. I set the rear derailleur to be able to shift only to the 3rd biggest cog. I was actually fine with these, but I have some issues with the smallest ones. The noise is kinda intense on the smallest ones, but the chain also „jumps” sometimes on the smallest one. If I ride slowly it is ok, but if I put bigger pressure while riding on the smallest, the chain touches the 2nd smallest so much, that that chain is lifted up and jumps. It is kind of annoying.
    I knew it might have had some drawbacks, but this is getting too much. I know that the bike geometry is different, but I simply cannot imagine how it is working on bikes which were designed for a 1by setup. I do not know how they are running 1by12s effectively.
    I can push my front chainring to 3 different directions:
    -up or down. Obviously I cannot move the BB itself and I do not know if it would solve it, but I could try different sizes, now it is a 32 I guess.
    -to the front or to the back. Ok, this is not possible, but I dont think it would make a difference. it is different on 27.5ers and 29ers, but they both can have a 1by.
    -left or right. I can play with the spacers around the BB, this would be the easiest. But if I move to the right, it would get even worse on the biggest cogs. If I move to the left, it would get worse on the smallest ones.
    Maybe a 28 teeth (not because of the size, but it is slower) chainring and moving the BB to the right would make it better.
    I really do not want to buy a frame which was designed for a 1by. If I change, it will be a carbon and those are expensive. Actually, only the frame would be ok, but i also have to buy a new fork then, bc now it is not tapered (1by frames should be tapered). A then I would also like to have a ratchet hub. But from all these I could buy a carbonframed 1by, obviously selling my current bike.
    Sorry for the long comment, potato for 9gaggers
    Suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by chips44 View Post
    Suggestions?


    Chainline may or may not be right but that's not the problem, not the main one anyway. I have 1x10 and it works perfectly in every gear. Also 1x is not geometry or frame specific.

    It sounds to me like you might have an issue with some worn drivetrain parts, old chain on a new cassette or something like that.

    The best chainline is when the front chainring lines up with the middle of the cassette, on a triple crankset that is usually with the chainring in the small or middle ring position.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  3. #3
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    i have ridden only 400kms on my current setup, nothing can be worn.
    anything about the brands? but i do not think it can be a problem. 3 components 3 brands.

  4. #4
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    Bent derailleur hanger? Post the specifics of your components rather than having people guess what they are...


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  5. #5
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    Just covering the basics, you are well experienced in tuning a derailleur?
    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Remember, there's always quilting and knitting if pedalling becomes too tough.

  6. #6
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    Check derailleur hanger.

    Then if needed get spacers so the chainring hits in the middle of the cassette. I err mine slightly to the big cog side.

    Then, completely readjust everything from square one. Re do limit screws, b screw, and undo then re attach your shift cable.

    No bike that works with 3x10 should have any issues with 1x10

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Did you put on a new chain or derailleur when you went 1x? My hunch, as suggested above, is that the chain doesn't quite mesh with the cassette because one or the other is worn.

  8. #8
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    Thank you for your replies.

    I can tune the rear derailleur, I did it, will try again.
    I do not think my hanger is bent, but will try a new one anyway, does not cost too much.

    I changed the cranks for a sram gx 1400, with 30T narrowwide chainring
    XT chain
    SunRace MS3 Cassette

    I have changed all 3 at once, almost brand new, only a few hundred kms as i mentioned before

  9. #9
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    Don't need to buy a new hanger, just make sure it's straight, although it's always good to have a spare if you don't have one already. Even new hangers can be off. Buy the Park Tools DAG 2.2 or have your LBS check it.

  10. #10
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    If you all agree that it is a kind of problem that could be solved on a very small budget, I will be fine. I thought it is something related to the geometry, but i couldnt figure out what would make a difference. This guy talks a little bit about chainline from 1:30 to 2:30

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew03wbHOHS0

  11. #11
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    Post a picture taken from behind with the chain on one of the middle cogs


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  12. #12
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    homemade 1by difficulties-20180416_172225.jpghomemade 1by difficulties-20180416_172446.jpghomemade 1by difficulties-20180416_172241.jpg

    readjusted the rear derailleur, now shifts perfectly but still does the same

  13. #13
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    Are you sure your shifters (on bars) are a match with cassette and derailleur? In other words, for each click of the shifter the indexing (amount of travel derailleur moves for each click of shifter) needs to match the distance between gears in cassette. That may explain why the further you get away from middle (in either direction) the worse things get as far as derailleur aligning with lowest or highest gears in cassette. Also, did you check/adjust chain length for new arrangement?
    12 Santa Cruz Heckler
    18 Kona Process 153 AL/DL (27.5)...

  14. #14
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    homemade 1by difficulties-20180416_185745.jpg
    homemade 1by difficulties-20180416_185854.jpg
    homemade 1by difficulties-20180416_190406.jpg

    Looks ok for me. It is hard to see the last one, but I changed 10speed cassette for a 10speed cassette, should be ok. If it shifts perfectly, and it does, i dont think thats the problem.

  15. #15
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    Hard to be 100% sure from the pictures, but the chain line looks good and the derailleur hanger looks to be bent.

  16. #16
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    Thanks, I will give it a try. I am about to order some stuffs for the season from bike-discount anyway.

  17. #17
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    Yeah, hard to tell, but the hanger looks bent a little inwards.

    The YouTube video you posted is made as click bait, notice he's also trying to sell you sram eagle in his description.

    Assuming your chain line is roughly in the middle of the cassette, I'm betting all my peanuts on the hanger.

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  18. #18
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    Update is coming soon.
    Just a quick question.

    how bad does this look on a scale from 0 to 10? 1yr old, ridden for 400kms.
    anything to do?
    homemade 1by difficulties-20180417_153305.jpg
    homemade 1by difficulties-20180417_153311.jpg

  19. #19
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    Looks like it sat with some water in it for a while. Does it have the plastic sleeve that connects the two sides together. That sleeve is supposed to prevent that. Do you have a drain hole in the bottom bracket shell? Do you know where the water could have entered into the frame?


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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chips44 View Post
    Update is coming soon.
    Just a quick question.

    how bad does this look on a scale from 0 to 10? 1yr old, ridden for 400kms.
    anything to do?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Iooks pretty bad for that few miles, use plenty of grease.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  21. #21
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    I went to my LBS and they said it will be the best if i take out the bearing, take em apart and regrease them. I was trying for a minute and then was like, nah... i cleaned them as much as I could and put them back.

    Anyway, I bought a new hanger for a fortune and put it on my bike. Did not solve anything. Then I put back my old cassette on my bike(still fine, only used one chain). The new one has a wider range, 11-42, bc I wanted to compensate a little bit. As I thought long time ago, just forgot since then, the derailleur (?) couldnt handle the 40 42 cogs. The biggest cogs works perfectly on the smaller cassette. Smallest still jumps. Then took the left spacer from BB and put it on the right, maybe the more straight chainline will solve it. Now it is almost straight when it is on the smallest, still jumps. at this point cannot really think of anything... maybe they are worn, but shouldnt be.

    pics of 42 cassette:
    homemade 1by difficulties-20180417_185222.jpg
    homemade 1by difficulties-20180417_185452.jpg

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